Mister Freedom® Naval Chinos, Type No.266ac, selvedge indigo cotton canvas. Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection Made in Japan
A nod to our early collaborations with Sugar Cane Co, specifically the “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” capsule collection of 2008, we are issuing our original “Naval Chinos” again this Fall. With a pattern inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, this Ten Year Anniversary edition will come in two very distinct options, indigo canvas and chino twill.
First to be released is a dark indigo yarn-dyed selvedge cotton canvas model. This is the same fabric used for our recently-released Anniversary Liberty Issue CPO Shirt.
Please note that this is canvas and not twill, canvas is plain weave, twill has a diagonal pattern. This indigo fabric is very different from the indigo-dyed ‘midnight twill’ types (also referred to as double indigo denim) we have often used in the past.
Canvases and twills both drape very differently, and canvas often feels and looks stiffer than twill. And stiff our indigo canvas Naval Chinos are at first! With normal wear/wash cycles, the fabric will not only naturally soften, but also fade nicely.
The MF® “Type MFSC No.266ac” Naval Chinos, indigo canvas model, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC: Sturdy and dry 100% cotton canvas, 11.7 Oz., dark and deep shade of double indigo warp and weft, white with red line selvedge ID, milled in Japan. Due to heavy starching in the milling stages, this fabric feels quite stiff at first and even more so after the initial recommended cold soak/hang dry process. This is normal and will gradually subside with normal wash/wear cycles.
SPECS: * Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers.
* Stripe ticking cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Selvedge ID displayed on pocket facing.
* Button fly, brown corrozo wood buttons.
* Front slash pockets and back welt pockets featuring arcuate decorative stitching.
* Watch pocket.
* Double MF® woven labeling on inside waist band.
* Concealed cloth label for custom markings on lower leg, French Navy style.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Made in Japan, designed in USA, worn around the World.
SIZING/FIT: The indigo canvas Type MFSC 266ac Naval Chinos come raw/unwashed/loomstate.
We recommend an original 30-40mn cold soak with occasional hand agitation, then spin dry cycle. Hang dry.
The tagged size corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. I wear a comfortable Waist 32 in these chinos. No need to size up or down from your actual measured waist size.
As the attractive fit pix suggests, these feature a vintage silhouette, mid rise, with somewhat of a classic leg, neither slim nor baggy.
Refer to chart for soaked measurements.
CARE: We recommend hand washing this garment when laundering becomes necessary. The loss of indigo dye will then be minimized.
If using a machine, turn the trousers inside-out to avoid marbling, use cold water and minimal eco-friendly detergent, and set to ‘delicate’. Line dry.
Please note that color crocking is to be expected, as it is the nature of indigo to rub off.
Available RAW (unwashed) Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.
“Ou es-tu Manurevaaaaaaaaaaaa?”…This haunting disco-beat song, penned by the versatile musical genius Serge Gainsbourg and made famous by pop singer Alain Chamfort, took over the French Hit Parade in 1979.
“But where are you Manureva”, Alain asked… A few adolescents sweating it out on the Macumba dance floor at the time probably wondered if Manureva was the name of Chamfort’s uncooperative girlfriend, but in Tahitian language, Manureva means ‘bird of voyage’, aka albatros, and the song was actually an homage to a French skipper…
Manureva is how the mighty Pen Duick IV was renamed in 1972 by its new owner. The famed aluminum trimaran sailboat originally belonged to Eric Tabarly, and disappeared at sea one day of 1978, never to be seen again…
The skipper on board on that fateful November 5th, 1978 was Alain Colas, school teacher turned skillful navigator, bushy side-burned and media-friendly. He had dreamed ofone day surpassing the sea exploits of his childhood hero, the taciturn Tabarly. After a two-year hiatus due to an anchor rope accident that almost severed-off his foot, Colas succeeded in his claim for eternity at age 35, entering the lost-at-sea legends Hall of Fame while competing for the lead in the 1978 edition of the Route du Rhum race.
Today, the 68ft Manureva lays somewhere at the bottom of the North Atlantic Ocean, Alain Colas is recorded in sailing History, and the Macumba still spins the scratchy 45rpm.
Alain Colas & Eric Tabarly, Toulon, 1976 (photo JC Barrault/SYGMA/CORBIS)
Back at the marina.
With these Mister Freedom® Manureva Deck Shorts, the 4th installment of our “Skipper” Spring 2016 collection, we are following in the wake of the colorful theme of the Gabier Jacket.
The nautical reference to 1970’s Hobie Cat® sails is still there. The 70’s vibe is also pretty obvious in the pattern of these short pants. Owing less in design to the British Army bermuda shorts than to funky-fresh flare “Bush Pants” popular some four decades ago, our Manureva’s come in ga-bazillions options. We’re cray-cray like that.
Yes, we outdid ourselves in the available combo department. Originally aiming for even more variations, we sadly eliminated about 3,267 assorted Rubik’s Cube color-ways arrangements to settle on six indispensable fruity winners, for the visual gourmet.
So here’s the Skipper’s dessert menu: A) Solid “Banana” canvas, featuring ox-blood red contrast stitching & snaps. B) Solid “Orange” canvas, featuring ivory contrast stitching & snaps. C) “Tutti Frutti Orange Flamer” canvas, tasty mix of banana and cerise on a bed of orange, enhanced by ivory contrast stitching & snaps. D) Solid “Cerise” canvas. E) “Tutti Frutti Cerise Flamer” canvas, tasty mix of orange and banana on a bed of cerise, adorned by ivory contrast stitching & snaps. F) Solid nep denim: a lighter hue indigo-dyed selvedge 12 oz. “neppy” denim, featuring orange contrast stitching & snaps.
We are also introducing, oh-heritage-sacrilege, our FIRST plastic zipper this season! To make sure everyone notices, it’s white, with contrasting color tape, a reference to French 70’s-80’s big-teeth Riri-type zip fasteners, popular with ski wear and other fashion sportswear gear of the time. Plastic being pretty much rust-proof last time we tested, it also makes sense as a way of keeping cuckoo hidden and dry during our nautical journey.
Swag-wise, if all fabrics were previously introduced with the Gabier Jacket, only to the boldest do we recommend pairing top flamer and bottom tutti frutti. However, you know we’re capable of anything, so classy fit pics are a-coming in the very near future…
Regarding the bermuda above-knee length, there’s always the custom route. To further alienate yourself from family and coworkers, crop the Manureva’s into hot pants, and tag us on Instagram. Have mercy, sans crotch-zooms, thanks.
All skits aside, the Manureva Deck Shorts look very cool on, with a nice 70’s Playboy of the Marina nautical vibe. And if anyone thinks less of you because you’re wearing yellow shorts, let their shrink deal with their own insecurity and hang ups. This is a redneck-free zone.
The Manureva Deck Shorts are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: Inspired by 1970’s sailing gear and old Playboy® magazine ads.
FABRIC OPTIONS: All canvases are selvedge 9.5 oz. 100% cotton, milled and dyed to our specs in Japan. The nep denim is a lighter hue indigo-dyed selvedge 12 oz. “neppy” denim, milled in Japan.
Options are as follows: A) Banana. B) Orange. C)Tutti frutti Orange Flamer. D) Cerise. E)Tutti frutti Cerise Flamer. F) Indigo nep denim.
DETAILS: * “Bush Pants” type top block pattern.
* Bermuda length, right above knee.
* White 70’s style plastic YKK zippers.
* Double snap waist closure.
* Inventive belt loops.
* Six convenient pockets.
* Painted metal snaps.
* Contrast 100% cotton stitching, caballo chainstitch construction.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: For general instructions on how we size Mister Freedom® garments, see here.
The Mister Freedom® Manureva Deck Shorts come raw/unwashed. We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. After the initial soak, all canvas options will shrink to approximately the same (tagged) size. These shorts have a generous waist and slimmer thigh section.
They are pretty much true-to-size, and I opted for a waist 32 and relaxed fit, judging the waist 30 a bit too ‘Angus Young’ on me.
Please refer to sizing chart to figure out what works for you, depending on your own body requirements and silhouette preferences.
CARE: Wash when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails. We recommend turning the shorts inside out to avoid marbling of the fabric, although the canvas will overtime age nicely and marbling should not be a concern. Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Sizes (W stands for Waist)
W 38 Retail: Canvas combos:$189.95 Nep Denim: $199.95
An early ‘Trooper’ proto, spotted in the bush of an undisclosed jungle location
Mister Freedom® “TROOPER BOOTS”, Made in USA, 2014.
The moment I laid my eyes on that old pair of beat-up military boots at the 2012 Inspiration Show in Long Beach, I had a feeling they were trouble. I knew these beauties would lead to Mister Freedom® second endeavor of footwear manufacturing, in the USA… Not your average relaxing walk in the park.
The original culprit vintage shoe was a US military Government issued boot, dated 13 June 1955, double buckle type, first pattern jungle boot. That pair had seen the bush, crossed the tree line a few times in its days.
I wasn’t familiar with that model, so had to do a bit of research when I got back. The story goes that these early jungle boots were nicknamed ‘Okinawa boots‘, as they often shod US advisors flying out of Okinawa en route to mingle with in-Country barefoot montagnards, during the early days(post Geneva) of the US field involvement in Vietnam.
The flat toe box of these Okinawa boots was very similar to that of the old faithful Road Champs I was wearing that day, and I thought of combining a few things for a new shoe to add to the Mister Freedom® “The Sportsman” catalog.
The plan was easy: ruthlessly lift time tested military designs, SOP in the fashion world, and add some MF® jungle juice.
We would use the Champs’ lasts and leather, some olive drab NOS military surplus heavy canvas bags, some NOS “Nitrene” rubber soles, give the shoe a ‘service boot’ type profile, and call them ‘Trooper’, cause Crocs® was taken.
Bam. There it is.
Well, after a year of R&D, we are excited to officially release the FIRST batch, a small run of hand-cut, bench-made, bushwhacking-ready “TROOPER BOOTS”!
The trooper is not for ballet dancing, but will do the bop and behave better in the field than on the runways.
After road testing three protos in 2012, figuring out sole combos, I’ll attest that they are comfortable. Although some adults have used that excuse for wearing velour sweatpants, comfort, when applied to footwear is not a bad idea.
As the designated test dummy I even took a dip in the Pacific Ocean wearing an early pair. The boots reacted well, and the sight of a grown-up advancing in the water fully clothed really amused the children.
Surprisingly, the canvas really stiffened while wet, shrinking and compressing the ankle, softening up and loosening up later when fully dried. This kinda shows that the fiber content of the canvas has some linen or hemp mixed with the cotton.
Our Trooper is an un-lined shoe combining leather and a single layer of sturdy mil-specs NOS canvas fabric. One of the challenge resided in keeping the junctions clean, in and out. A complicated origami game of folding and overlapping ensued.
Note that the MF® Trooper Boot will not come customized with someone’s ID painted on the inside. I sometimes mark my own footwear on the inside, probably because I have too much time on my hands. I use regular latex paint, and do a sloppy job not unlike what is often seen on old ID’d military boots.
While on R&R in the cold Country over Christmas, I attempted to water-proof my Troopers (along with my Pensacola Jacket) with some Otter Wax heat-activated fabric dressing. A bit involved of a process, but I am quite happy with the result. The waxed canvas ages very nicely, but so will it when left untreated.
Please note that the MF® Trooper Boot is in no way intended as a replica of an original US Army “Okinawa” jungle boot. Nor are we claiming they are appropriate on SOG ops.
There it is.
* An original MF® pattern, inspired by 1950’s US military jungle boots and service boots.
* MF® old school flat toe box.
* Shoe Vamp/Heel: Vegetable tanned cow hide, USA origin. Same leather we are using for the MF® Road Champ engineer boots. Rich dark brown color that will age nicely, according to specific wear and your conditioning preferences.
* Shoe Quarter/Tongue: Single layer heavy canvas from a limited stock of 60’s era NOS duffle bags, EU military surplus origin. Strong cotton-linen blend.
* Ankle Band/Eyelet Facing: Genuine Kangaroo leather, origin Australia. Besides being our choice for the MF® scutler cap head bands, Kangaroo hide was used to make soccer shoes, sometime around 6500 BC. Its qualities include non-stretch.
* Limited supply of USA made NOS ‘NITRENE’ rubber half sole and heel combo, “Non Marking, Oil Resistant, Long Wearing” they say, so that must be true…
* 1950’s NOS cotton laces, French military. Admittedly, these laces are not the perfect length for the Trooper, and need to be wrapped around the ankle, where they won’t necessarily stay in place… We’re working on sourcing the perfect laces, which should happen sometime around 6500 AD.
* Bias taped tongue. I’m only mentioning this because 1) it sounds intriguing 2) sourcing the right vintage HBT tape was unexpectedly complicated…
* Woven MF® “The Sportsman” label on reverse of said tongue.
* Made in USA
The Trooper lasts are those of our Road Champ. If you are familiar with our engineer boot, the fit is the same, if only more ‘flexible’ around the arch/ankle due to lacing.
There is no real magic formula to advise on sizing, as everyone’s foot proportions/sock preferences vary.
However, according to feedback, sizing down HALF your sneaker size seems to work. If you are a 10 in New Balance sneakers, you are probably a 9½ in the Trooper.
And like they say, it always works, sometimes.
The Trooper Boots are low maintenance, easy to break-in. I recommend just wearing them as-is and let your feet do the work. They age very nicely, faster if you chose hiking over playing Angry Birds at home. For those worrying about scuffs, mud, stains and nicks, there might be other more appropriate footwear choices out there.
If needed, leather conditioners such as Pecard can be applied to keep the leather healthy. As mentioned, the canvas can be treated with Otter Wax products, or left as-is and brushed clean when needed.
Available Sizes: 7, 7½, 8, 8½, 9, 9½, 10, 10½, 11, 11½, 12, 13
(Limited availability at the moment, not all listed sizes) Retail $749.95
Contact firstname.lastname@example.org for details not mentioned above, like… “do they come in black?” or “what’s with the banana bunch?”
Available at our brick & mortar and from www.misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support.
“Blouson El Americano” Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection
Let’s assume you have not yet forgotten our filibuster friend “El Americano“, introduced in the Fall 2013 chapter of mfsc “Viva la Revolución” collection…
Well, if he impressed many of his compañeros with his swag from the start, this had no little to do with that blusón he was wearing when he rode into Ensenada, one fine day of 1918. An elegant lone rider, clad in gringo attire and followed by nothing but a dust cloud… That day, El Americano was sporting a waist length soft leather jacket, button front and rounded collar, a casual yet stylish style not yet all the rage it was to become with American youth in the 1930’s.
Passing in front of a small store front just off La Calle Primera, he was hailed by François, a recently immigrated Frenchman, tailor by trade. François, you guessed it, was smoking outside his shop.
But of course. The rest is stuff of legends…
“Nice blouson Monsieur. I see you are quite the homme de goût … I just received some bolts of fabrics you might like to have zis coat made from?”
Original ‘El Americano’ leather jacket circa 1918
Original fabric swatches, courtesy of François ze tailor of Ensenada
After almost permanently silencing François because El Americano didn’t appreciate being diagnosed with gout by a stranger, the horseman agreed to dismount and enter the shop. He liked what he saw, rich but rugged fabrics, freshly imported from the Orient.
Few words were subsequently exchanged, as El Americano was a res non verba kinda fella, and the appeal of small talk eluded him.
Forty-eight hours later, a manila string wrapped a brown craft paper bundle. A calligraphed ‘Blouson, El Americano‘ red and white gum label was affixed to it. A few Pancho Villa pesos bills changed hands.
A set of waistcoats and trousers were also ordered the same week.
El Americano was now ‘dressed to kill’, for Land and Liberty…
Now you know this is a dated tale since there is no way in the world a Frenchman would do all that work in 48h. So, back to reality.
Our ‘Blouson’ is inspired by several short-type vintage jackets. 1920’s-30’s suede leather jackets, casual western coats, cotton work jackets…
The flared shape of the cuffs is inspired by a detail seen on a museum photo of a 1800’s chinaco (warriors, expert horsemen not belonging to the Mexican upper-class, War of Reform) suede ‘bolero’ jacket.
Original Chinaco outfit, 19th Century
Additionally the 1920’s-30’s period typical low chest pocket position (below rib cage) is so that you can fill up both your shirt and jacket pockets without causing discomfort nor excessive bulging.
As always the ‘Blouson El Americano’ is not an exact replica of an existing jacket, rather a new garment that kinda looks old, a la MF®.
As a matter of personal preferences, we tend to not make our clothes look vintage by distressing them artificially with harsh chemicals/sanding treatments from industrial wash houses. We instead use old tricks and details to make our clothes look like they’ve been around for some time.
To some, these “Blouson El Americano” look like they are off a dusty bygone menswear store shelf… In days of disposable fashion, we don’t think that is a bad thing either.
We have developed 3 entirely different fabrics for this jacket, all milled/dyed in Japan exclusively for mfsc. These options are: a) Indigo vat dyed Corduroy. b) Brown Duck Canvas. c) Grey Covert Stripe.
The ‘Blouson El Americano’ is fully lined with ‘Troy Blanket’ for the body, and cotton stripe ticking for the arms.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in small ethically run factories in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by 1920’s-30’s short-type vintage jackets.
a) Brown Duck : selvedge 100% cotton canvas, 13 Oz.
The inside part of the yarn being lighter in color than the outside of the yarn (same as that of the 1930′s hunting jacket with its amazing patina that inspired it) this fabric will age nicely with repeat wear. Milled in Japan.
b) Grey Covert Stripe: selvedge 60% cotton and 40% linen heavy canvas with a random stripe pattern. The random repeat makes this fabric look halfway between a covert (salt & pepper) and stripe type textile. Technically 12 Oz. it feels heavier because of the yarn gauge. It takes an entire day to mill about 17 meters of that fabric, on old shuttle looms. The factory was thrilled… Milled in Japan.
Fabric inspired by a vintage 1943 bag from the Swiss military.
c) Indigo Corduroy: Mid wale 100% cotton corduroy. 14.5 Oz. Indigo vat dyed. Milled and dyed in Japan.
* A-1 type collar pattern (Brown Duck version has a corduroy collar. Grey Covert has self fabric collar)
* Corozo wood buttons, aka ivory nut. Tonal color
* Adjustable side cinch straps
* Original flared wrist cuffs, ‘chinaco’ style.
* Low chest pockets, inverted box-pleats.
* Collar/cuff/pocket flap facing lined with cotton indigo covert fabric.
* Fully lined: soft hand woven striped “Troy” blanked body lining (60% reused wool, 28% cotton, 12% Rayon) and stripe cotton ticking arms lining.
* Under arm gussets with venting eyelets.
* Made in Japan
All fabrics will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold soak and hang dry.
The reason for the original cold soak/dry is purely aesthetic. I like the natural torque/twisting of the fabric that gets rid of that fresh-off-the-shelf look.
For the Indigo corduroy “Blouson El Americano”, some crocking is to be expected when pairing with light colored garments. Indigo ‘stains’ from rubbing wash off eventually.
I am usually a 38/medium and wear a 38 “Blouson El Americano”.
True to size but refer to chart for rinsed/hang dry measurements.
Do not use hot water or machine dryer as this might result in excessive shrinkage and color loss.
36 small 38 medium 40 large 42 Xlarge 44 XXlarge
a) Indigo Corduroy $689.95 b) Brown Duck Canvas $669.95
c) Grey Covert Stripe$669.95
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Britches Chaparral, Brown and Indigo Cotton/linen canvas.
Movin’ on, friends…
Here is our fifth installment of our “Men of the Frontier” journey, the cotton-linen canvas “BRITCHES CHAPARRAL”.
Again, borrowing from both the American West and the Old World, we have combined European influenced fabrics with 30’s-40’s slacks and “chino” American style trousers.
The fabric options are the same than our “Chaparral Blouse”: two Cotton-Linen plain weave selvedge canvases, Indigo dyed and “cachou” brown.
A quite ‘simple’ trousers pattern for those britches, but loaded with small details, and made with fabrics that will wear very nicely and develop interesting character and patina.
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1930’s-1940’s work type trousers and cotton slacks. Mid/high rise. FABRIC: The Chaparral Britches come in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches, both options are inspired by rare turn of the century French workwear textiles from our archives. a)MFSC Brown Canvas: A blend of 80% linen and 20% cotton selvedge canvas, 12.5 Oz., in a “cachou“/ brown Duck color. b)MFSC Indigo Canvas: A blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton selvedge canvas, 8 Oz., Indigo dyed. DETAILS:
* Selvedge outer leg seam.
* Slash type front pockets, with inner selvedge angled stitched fold.
* Gun metal color donut button fly with double button waist.
* Two slash rear pockets, with arrowhead type button flaps.
* Watch/coin pocket
* Trousers type pocket bag construction and lining, with 100% cotton tight weave sateen fabric, beige color.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching
* Flat felled seam seat construction. PACKAGING: For the USA, the BRITCHES CHAPARRAL come in an old school cardboard box with original MF® artwork. This sturdy box is not the collapsible cheapo kind, and can be used for storage of small items. Please re-use. SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
The britches come UNWASHED, the material is raw, so shrinkage is expected. With an initial cold soak and line dry, both fabrics will shrink differently, but will reach TAGGED size down the line. Note that cotton-linen textiles shrink and stretch yoyo style with wear and wash.
An additional 1.5 inch can be let out from the bottom cuff if needed (single stitch machine.) Note on fit: You’ll notice a different fit and silhouette with the two options on the photos. I am around a waist 31 usually, and had to go with a tagged waist 32 with both the Indigo and Brown britches. My brown pair has been cold washed (inside out to avoid marbling), line dried. I also tapered the leg by taking in the outer leg seam by about 1.5cm. My Indigo pair was just cold rinsed, line dried, no alteration, and still has some shrinkage due. Because I do not want to mess with the rich and deep Indigo color, I’ll wear them this way for a while. I don’t mind a bit looser fit for the summer with those. Rolled up with espadrilles should do the trick for our California weather…
See chart below for approximate measurements of raw vs. cold soaked/line dried. (we didn’t ‘pull’ on the fabric for measurements, and because the Indigo cotton/linen wrinkles more, there are slight differences). Due to very limited stock we couldn’t rinse/test all sizes/options.
DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the indigo dye, bleeding is expected with the INDIGO canvas option BRITCHES CHAPARRAL. You WILL get some color rubbing if you wear a light color shirt tucked in. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash. Please use minimal mild AND environment friendly detergent.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Tagged Sizes (= will shrink to sizes): W28× L33 W30× L33 W32× L33 W34× L33 W36× L34 W38× L34 RETAIL: $549.95