Mister Freedom® N-1H Deck Jacket, “Burnt Umber” Jungle Cloth, FW2019 mfsc SURPLUS collection, made in Japan.

USN sailors circa 1943, wearing a mix bag of Type I & II N-1 Deck Jackets. (©Mister Freedom® vintage archives.)

Mister Freedom® mfsc Type N-1H Deck Jackets evolution (©2008 – ©2019)

Mister Freedom® Type N-1H Deck Jacket, “Burnt Umber” jungle cloth edition.
FW2019 mfsc  “Surplus” Collection

This release will be the sixth Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane spin on the iconic Government-issued naval N-1 foul weather “Deck Jacket” pattern, familiar to all vintage clothing collectors.

First, a bit of rambling about fashion, timeline, etc…
This might sound like a no-brainer in well-informed heritage fashion circles today, but there was some confusion following the release of our ‘fictional’ Type N-1H (H was for hook front): our deck jacket interpretation, not intended as a replica, never existed as a USN-issued garment.
It hit the US market during Fall 2008, as part of the “Naval Clothing Tailor” mfsc collection.
We had not reinvented the helm (see what i did there), simply blended genuine post-1943 USN N-1 models, combining features and periods, fully embracing all the new ‘toys’ recently made-available to us by our friends at Buzz Rickson’s. This all morphed into a somewhat original “might-have-been” jacket.
That first edition 2008 N-1H featured navy blue jungle cloth, knit collar and cuffs, teardrop “D” pockets, hook-front wind flap and front zipper closure, draw string bottom, navy blanket lining. MF® OGs will remember it as the ‘noisy one’, because of the crinkly inner organdy windproof layer. This jacket is barely documented on this blog, and even missing from our online store.
For those into that kind of stuff, some efforts at a chronological MF® mfsc archive are being made here, at the phenomenal rate of about three entries every four years.

We followed-up with a “Troy” blanket-lined modified version during Fall 2010, the Type N-1H md, merely updating the USN wool blanket lining to a civvy wool striped workwear classic. For the anecdote, if  Troy blankets were to become all the rage in heritage fashion a few years later, vintage USN deck coats were already so popular that J.Crew, then under Mickey Drexler‘s vision and branding make-over, picked up some of our inventory to spice-up their menswear catalog. I believe that Todd Snyder, then head of Men’s Design at J.Crew, and one of MF®’s earliest corporate repeat customer, harking back to early days of yours truly schlepping old rags at the Rosebowl circa 1995, was the instigator of that connection. Cheers Todd.

In 2014, the “Sea Hunt” collection featured yet another twist on the Deck Jacket pattern, the Blouson de Quart, in mil-specs khaki jungle cloth, our first time using vintage-style USN alpaca lining and round style collar. The original Fall 2014 blog post features some old French Marine Nationale photos that inspired this version. The Blouson de Quart is somewhat of a MF® N-1H Type II.

During Fall 2016, an indigo-dyed jungle cloth version of the Blouson de Quart, along with a black jungle cloth version of the N-1H Type I pattern were released, celebrating ten years of driving the talented folks at Sugar Cane Co (Toyo Enterprise, Japan) berserk.

For Fall 2019, our N-1H Deck jacket pattern makes a come back in a new Type I hybrid rendition. We thought of calling back on deck the classic color of our original mfsc Mulholland Master, a warm shade of brown we’re naming “Burnt Umber“, because it sounds fabulous.  The collar style is reverted to the original 1940’s USN Deck Jacket knit type. The fluffy chocolate brown alpaca lining should keep your upper body toasty in most of Antartica. The jacket’s timeless style should keep you cool for most of the 21st Century.

The FW2019 mfsc N-1H Deck Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS
FABRIC:
Shell: Tight weave 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, 100% cotton grosgrain, period mil-specs, original mfsc umber brown color, milled in Japan.
Lining: Warm, non-itchy, soft-touch wool pile alpaca full lining, chocolate brown color, vintage mil-specs.

DETAILS:
* An original MF® hybrid design, freely inspired by 1940’s-1960’s vintage US Navy and French Marine Nationale foul weather Type N-1 Deck Jackets, issued to embarked enlisted personnel.
* Double front closure featuring both a 1950’s-type TALON “bell” zipper, and a wind flap secured by 1940’s-type clip hooks.
* Full lining, vintage USN-style chocolate brown wool pile alpaca.
* 1940’s type collar style, 100% wool knit collar and cuffs, contrast navy blue color.
* Drawstring cinch bottom.
* Original teardrop hand-warmer “D” pockets, lined with golden brown cotton corduroy.
* Tonal poly-cotton thread hi-count stitching.
* No outside “military” markings/ornements.
* “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” woven rayon label, 2008 style.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The FW2019 N-1H Deck Jacket is ready-to-go as-is. It is a dry-cleaning ONLY garment and does not require any pre-soaking.
This jacket is considered true-to-size. I opted for a size 38, my usual size in mfsc N-1H and most other mfsc jackets, with enough room for a thick shirt of heavy sweater underneath. Like most ready-to-wear garments not made from stretch fabric or cut as a poncho pattern, our N-1H might not satisfy everyone’s body type configurations. In general, the consensus is to go with your usual size in mfsc jackets for our N-1H models.
We have taken the measurements to the best of our abilities. Refer to the sizing chart and remember that measurements are taken from the outside of the fabric. The lining is about ¼ inch thick, which reduces the inside room by that much. Please consider this when sizing from the charts measurements.

CHART

CARE:
Professional dry-clean only, in your local eco-friendly dry-cleaning facility. For dirt or minor water-based stain, spot clean with a clean, damp sponge.
Please DO NOT attempt to machine-wash this jacket in a home washing machine, as this specific N-1H weighs like a dead mule when wet. You risk ruining both machine and jacket, the metal hooks will get snagged, the jungle cloth shell will get marbling marks etc…

Available RAW (un-rinsed)
Sizes
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom® “STALLION” Campus jacket, Black veg-tan TEA-CORE cowhide, FW2019, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® “STALLION” Campus Jacket, black veg-tan ’Tea-Core” cowhide leather.
Fall 2019 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

We have been working on this project for quite some time now, and are quite thrilled to announce that… it’s a wrap, the MF® Campus is, not only back in black, but “tea-core” black!

A term today familiar to vintage leather jackets/boots collectors and heritage fashion aficionados, “tea-core” leather refers to an old-school tannery dyeing method, distinct from the more commun dip-dyed method. “Tea-core” dyeing results in the skin side color being different from the flesh side color. Traditionally, to achieve this, hides are first dip-dyed in a light brown color. This is followed by spraying the skin side with a darker color top-coating. Japanese industry experts refer to this type of leather as Cha-Shin (茶芯), Cha meaning brown, and Shin meaning core. It is a sought-after characteristic of vintage engineer boots and older leather jackets.

This dyeing method is often considered undesirable by major brands (from car seat manufacturers to garment makers), as tea-core leather offers poor ‘colorfastness’. The thin topcoat wears-off overtime, gradually exposing the lighter tone of the under layer. If the fast-aging quality of “tea-core” leather is considered a defect by some, it contributes to a rewarding and desirable patina for others.

Sourcing black-dyed leather in the market in not difficult, but, ever in the front row of the soup sandwich line, the MF® Design Dept wanted something a bit more ‘special’ for this black iteration of our traditional “Campus Jacket”. Initially introduced in 2013 in the MF® signature natural ‘pink’ veg-tan cowhide, the mission this time was to combine the patina potential of veg-tan natural leather (a sun-tanning/wearing/conditioning journey mastered and well-documented by our friend USMC MGySgt John “VEB”) with a solid black appearance. We developed this special exclusive leather with a tannery that was willing and patient enough to comply with our demands and high expectations.
After months of costly R&D, there it is!

As the jacket gets some mileage and naturally ages, normal abrasion of the black topcoat from wear will reveal the natural ‘pink’ underside, in turn evolving into a rich golden tone. With regular wear, with the expected nicks, scratches, water spills, natural sun-exposure and occasional conditioning with products such as Pecard Leather Dressing, the patina of your well-worn MF® STALLION Campus jacket should be nothing short of “spectacular”, as our friend Daniel likes to put it.

This specific gratifying feature of our Campus jacket not only makes this garment retain a high resale value, but might also someday qualify it as a rare desirable family heirloom, should Made-in-USA wearables become a thing of the past, once small independent labels all get leveled by Fast-Fashion giants and the norms that consumerism dictates.

The MF® “STALLION” Campus Jacket in black veg-tan ’Tea-core” cowhide leather is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®.

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original pattern inspired by 1930’s sportswear ‘Cossack’ type unlined leather jackets.

LEATHER: Black vegetable-tanned “Tea-Core” full grain cow hide leather, black topcoat with natural-color flesh side, milled and supple, about 2-3 Oz weight. Exclusively developed for MF®.

DETAILS:
* 1930’s silhouette.
* One piece back.
* Fully unlined, clean seams inside & out.
* Black outside color, ‘pink’ inside, for an attractive over time ’vintage’ patina.
* Cotton corduroy collar and wrist cuff facing.
* Slash pockets with arrowhead-shaped edges.
* Side gussets with adjustable side straps (NOS metal slide buckles.)
* Keyhole button holes.
* Dark brown ‘Cat-Eyes’ corozo wood buttons (aka ivory nut), backed by contrasting ivory-color corozo support buttons.
* Underarm venting eyelets.
* Mister Freedom® ‘The Sportsman’ woven label behind the slash pocket, right front panel.
* Sturdy poly-cotton thread stitching.
* Made in California, USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® “STALLION” Campus Jacket does not require any type of pre-treatment or conditioning and is ready to wear as-is. This garment is cut quite slim but is considered true-to-size.
Keep in mind that we are referring to a classic old-school type fit, not a contemporary streetwear silhouette.

I wear a size 38 in the “STALLION” Campus Jacket, my consistent size in all Campus jackets iterations, and my usual size in mfsc jackets. 
Please refer to flat measurements in chart below.

CHART

CARE:
Embrace the fact that the “Tea-Core” leather is prone to get nicked and scratched, revealing the natural color under-layer, unavoidably showing signs of wear. Occasional conditioning when needed (according to actual frequency of wear) will contribute to an attractive warm tone natural patina, and a healthy-looking leather.
We recommend Pecard Leather Dressing
, following this method.
Do not use overly-greasy neatsfoot oil or leather conditioners specific to footwear. Do not try to hasten the ‘vintage look’ by excessively conditioning the leather, as this will only result in the garment looking ‘wet’.

Note: Some shedding of the leather ‘flesh’ side may occur temporarily and leave (brush-able) flecks visible on dark shirts. This light shedding will eventually subside with normal wear.

Available Sizes:
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (XLarge)
44 (XXLarge)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Latest batch of Mister Freedom® RANGER Shirt, made in USA from New Old Stock powerlooom Indian Madras textiles.

The Mister Freedom® Ranger Shirt, Powerloom edition.
NOS authentic Indian Madras
Made in USA

Initially released in 2016, our NOS vintage madras MF® Ranger Shirts have been popular with heritage-style connoisseurs and textile designers alike. The manufacturing journey was extensively documented here.
This is the final batch than needed to be photographed to complete our inventory, taking the number of options for the MF® madras Ranger Shirt pattern to a staggering one hundred and some lots! With vintage fashion, Vive la Difference!

For those unable to visit our Los Angeles brick & mortar store to experience the full selection, we made it quite straightforward to shop by sizes available per the various check patterns (called LOTS) on www.misterfreedom.com.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2019

Smashing Labor Day Weekend EVENT! 20% OFF select Mister Freedom® action gear!

Smashing 2019 Labor Day Weekend Event.
20% OFF select Mister Freedom® mfsc collections.

Get your Mister Freedom® action gear for a knock-out 20% rebate this weekend.
Sale excludes current collection (SS2019), but includes everything else, from Leather Jackets to Californians Blue Jeans… and muchos más!

Sales starts Friday August 30, 2019 at midnight (PST) and ends Monday September 2, at midnight.
Our Los Angeles HQ brick & mortar store will be closed on Labor Day (09-02-2019), and all order-processing/email-answering ops will resume on Tuesday (09-03-2019) at 11:00AM (PST).

NOTE: The discount is applied during PayPal checkout.
Should technical issues arise, any discount on qualified items not automatically applied during the sale will be credited back to your account after the sale.

Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support and patience with the processing of your order.

The MF® Team,

Mister Freedom®

©2019

Mister Freedom® “Hickory SAIL BAG”, Sportsman catalog, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Hickory SAIL BAG, ©2016

The MF® Hickory SAIL BAG and its Denim FLY BAG predecessor.

Mister Freedom® HICKORY SAIL BAG
The Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA

This MF® pattern was initially released as the “Denim Fly Bag” (Fall 2015), a handy carry-on travelling companion for frequent-flyers. The “Hickory Sail Bag” is an updated version of that original pattern.

Mixing old and new school, low and hi tech, this unassuming storage device is reminiscent of a mini US Army denim barrack bag, with improved practicality and versatility. It is actually travel-friendly.

The perks and features of this storage device have been previously discussed here, prefaced by a brief ode to contemporary air travel. Besides its updated nautical feel, this new edition is larger in size than its denim predecessor. The cylinder dimensions are approximately 20’’ tall x 11’’ diameter (about 15’’ flat across the body.)
The original Denim Fly Bag was devised to store personal effects needed on long flights: ear plugs, a copy of Annie Jacobsen’s “Surprise, Kill, Vanish“, pen & paper, phone, eye drops, toothbrush, hand sanitizer, inflatable neck pillow, sleep mask, surgical mask, headphones, slippers, etc… While your carry-on would go in the overhead bin, the Fly Bag could stay close at hand.
The Hickory Sail Bag can still be used as an unstructured lightweight grab-and-go compartment of your main carry-on bag, but its larger size also makes it a handy beach bag, daypack, or light camping gear container.
It is made of NOS selvedge indigo/white hickory stripe twill, with a vintage hi-tek water-resistant rubber-coated blue denim bottom panel.

The bag features a Velcro® closure side pocket made of olive green mil-specs nylon mesh, recycled from authentic New Old Stock US Army field insect bar netting. This pocket features two layers. The first layer stores what you need to have visual access to. The second compartment is made of NOS signal yellow twill, and can store flat items such as passport/currency/travelers checks, still easy access but out of sight.

The bag top opening closes with a cinch-cord. The fancy yellow sliding cord lock also serves as a lithium battery-operated LED light. Familiar to the outdoor enthusiast, this smart little Cord Lock Light (sold out everywhere!) will help you search the bag’s content in the dark, and potentially fend-off grizzly bear attacks while camping.
Note: Remove red plastic protective tab before using the light for the first time.

The MF® HICKORY SAIL BAG is designed and manufactured in the USA by Mister Freedom®.

Note: This item has been available for some time from the MF® HQ, but never published on the blog.

SPECS

FABRIC:
Shell: NOS selvedge indigo/white hickory stripe twill, about 6. Oz.
Side pocket: Nylon Mil-specs insect bar netting, authentic US military NOS part.
Concealed side pocket: NOS signal yellow 100% cotton twill.

Bottom panel: Water-resistant rubber-coated blue denim.

DETAILS:

* An original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by vintage US Army barrack bags and old-school hi-tek outdoor gear.
* Approx. flat size: 20” tall x 15” wide (cylinder shape 11” diameter.)
* Double layer side pocket with mesh section for easy visual access.
* Signal yellow concealed pocket side compartment, stenciled with MF® anchor graphic.
* Red braided cotton-nylon cord cinch top closure.
* Yellow cord lock featuring Hyper Bright® LED Light, powered by two replaceable CR1220 lithium watch batteries.
* Cloth name tag.
* Sturdy poly-cotton stitching.
* Single needle machine construction, flat-felled seams, no overlock on the inside.
* Made in USA.

The MF® HICKORY SAIL BAG is issued unwashed, raw condition. It is ready for its first inaugural flight, cruise or beach trip.

CARE:
When laundry is required, untie the red cord ends, remove the yellow cord lock, turn the bag inside out and machine wash on delicate cycle, eco-friendly detergent, cold water. Line dry. Minimal shrinkage is to be expected.

Available raw/unwashed
One Size

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron

Mister Freedom®

©2019