Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt (“McG” plaid heavy flannel) & DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirt (Indigo-covert plaid & Brown dobby stripe) FW2021 mfsc Surplus Catalog. Made in Japan.

 

Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, “McG” plaid heavy flannel FW2021 edition.
mfsc Surplus Catalog.
Made in Japan.

The SECOYA pattern combines two vintage garments, a rare 1930’s pull-over chin-strap work chambray with no label, and a 1940’s STURDY OAK work chambray with elaborate “Double-Panel” construction.
The defunct STURDY OAK label, the workwear division of Sears, Roebuck & Co, produced its famous “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern, often complimented with “Ventilation Eyelets”. Other bygone mail-order catalog companies such as Montgomery Ward & CoSpiegel or JCPenney also offered their versions in the 1940’s -50’s, all full open button front shirts. We thought of combining the fancy “Double-Panel” pattern with a pull-over type shirt, and the MF® SECOYA was born.
The term Secoya is Bad Hombre parlance for sequoia, a semantic nod to the vintage Sturdy Oak specimen that inspired this MF® pattern.

The “McG” is the third model of our SECOYA.
The original Mister Freedom® “SECOYA” pattern was introduced sometime during Spring 2019, and was initially released in a fine 3 Oz. indigo yarn “NTC” chambray, a fabric familiar to all mfsc OGs as it was the same indigo chambray used for the 2008 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Utility Shirt. That chambray fabric ages quite gracefully.

Well-worn MF® SECOYA Shirt, NCT chambray, 2019.

Inspired by “Big Mac” or “Five Bros” type heavy flannel work shirts, the follow-up model was the SECOYA “Winter King”, 8.25 Oz. indigo x red woven plaid, released during FW2020.

For FW2021, we pulled the fabric inspiration off a vintage 1950s McGregor wool shirt from our archives. If we wanted to closely replicate the unusual turquoise & red yarns combo of the original plaid pattern, we decided to replace the wool yarns by 100% cotton yarns. Our friends at Toyo Enterprises painstakingly milled this outstanding selvedge heavy flannel woven plaid for us in Japan. The SECOYA “McG” was born.

The “SECOYA” Double-Panel Ventilated Work Shirt, “McG” heavy flannel edition is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Vintage-inspired 100% cotton classic woven plaid heavy flannel, turquoise & red dominant yarns, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage 1930’s-1940’s classic American fancy chambray work shirts.
* Pull-over style.
* “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern.
* Stitched ventilation Eyelets on underarm and back panels, green thread.
* Selvedge side gussets.
* Chin strap.
* Natural poplin facing on front button placket/cuffs/chest pockets.
* White corozo wood “cat-eyes” buttons.
* Double chest pocketing, buttoned pockets.
* Concealed inside chest pocket, featuring the fabric selvedge.
* High-count 100% cotton tonal stitching, chainstitch construction.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.

SIZING/FIT:
The SECOYA “McG” heavy flannel Work Shirt comes raw/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold rinse/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wear:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation or one machine rinse cycle on delicate.
  • Washing machine spin dry.
  • Line dry. (No heat dryer)

We recommend wearing your usual mfsc shirting size, although I personally opted for a SMALL on the SECOYA heavy flannel. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/cold rinsed measurements. To reflect “real life” garment conditions, the shrink-tested shirts in the chart have been rinsed in a home washing machine, cold water, full spin cycle on delicate, and then line dried (no heat dryer.)

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

 

 

 

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirt, indigo-covert plaid & brown dobby stripe FW2021 edition.
mfsc Surplus Catalog.
Made in Japan.

The all-original Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER is our spin on the traditional “western snap” shirt. The design features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes and arcuate panels. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.

The shirts buttons are painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts, initially featured on the 2013 MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.

The DUDE RANCHER pattern has been previously released in black and white broadcloth (cotton poplin), 1930s-inspired printed shadow plaid, light indigo vat-dye chambray, “Joan” woven plaid, and “101” selvedge denim.

FW2021 sees the return of the DUDE RANCHER, with two new distinct fabric additions to this list.

First is a rare selvedge 100% cotton woven plaid, combining indigo yarns, covert yarns (a.k.a. salt & pepper), and black yarns, in a sturdy, dry hand, 9 Oz. fabric.
The inspiration for this unusual yarn combo came from the check lining of a vintage 1940s French corduroy coat (in Velour d’Amiens). The lining was just too good not to be replicated as-is, so we had the textile experts at Toyo Enterprises painstakingly mill a selvedge rendition of it in Japan, woven on vintage traditional machinery.

The second option is a 10.25 Oz. dark brown Dobby Stripes brushed fabric, with a soft hand and cosy, wintery feel. The stripe pattern is subtle, and noticeable in the textured Dobby weave rather than from a contrasting color.

The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt “Indigo-Covert” and “Brown Dobby Stripes” are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Two options:
a) Indigo-Covert plaid: Dry 100% cotton woven plaid, 9 Oz., combining indigo, covert (salt & pepper), and black yarns. Solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

b) Brown Dobby stripes: Soft hand brushed 100% cotton 10.25 Oz. dark brown Dobby Stripes fabric.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts and 1950s-60s dude ranch outfits.
* Traditional western-wear arcuate front and back yokes.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Tonal stitching.
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Fancy diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style selvedge side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
Both the “Indigo-Covert” and “Brown Dobby Stripes” DUDE RANCHER come RAW/unwashed. The shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Washing machine spin dry cycle.
  • Line dry. (No heat dryer)

We recommend wearing your usual mfsc shirting size, although I personally opted for a SMALL, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit, sizing down from my usual Medium in mfsc shirting. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

From the Mister Freedom® HQ: This is how we measure our garments, post-shrinkage.

Mister Freedom® Measuring Guidelines

Garments initially purchased directly from www.misterfreecdom.com tend to come raw/loomstate/unwashed (unless otherwise specified), because we refuse to indulge in industrial washing, its water waste and polluting consequences.
But we understand that fine-tuning sizing with raw garments can be a bit challenging at times, especially when cut from un-sanforized fabrics.
To facilitate things, we provide post-shrinkage measurements for all of our washable garments, available under each item’s Size Chart link.
Mister Freedom® garments are cut so that post-shrinkage measurements determine the actual tagged size. Some of our garments come oversized for that reason.
Our simple in-house shrinking process consists of a ~30mn cold soak/machine spin dry/line dry. Hot washing/heat drying are not recommended and may lead to excessive shrinkage/discoloration/damage etc…

In order to fine-tune the size that will best work for you, a good trick is to measure a garment of similar style that you own (and like the fit of), and match it to our Size Chart reflecting post-shrinkage measurements.
Photos above show how we go about measuring, following the initial soak/line dry routine: lay the garment atop a reliable metal ruler (cheap plastic measuring tapes tend to stretch over time), flatten out fabric wrinkles, fabric straight but not stretched/pulled, and follow above guidelines.
The Sizing/Fit tab under each garment will also provide insights on style/silhouette/fabric stretch/etc…

For assistance, please send all product enquiries to sales@misterfreedom.com

Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 “PANIOLO” Edition, 14 Oz. SC401 selvedge denim, mfsc SS2021 Sportsman catalog. Made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® smashing Continental Sportcoat & Bermudas combo! Sportsman catalog, made in USA.

This summer, pair your Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat with the Continental Bermudas to create your own smashing look at the pool party!

The inseam on the MF® Bermudas averages about 10 inches, but, on a kick with shorts lately, I went ahead and cropped all of mine. Chopped 6 inches from the inseam, 6.5 from the outseam.
The combo sportcoat/matching shorts is an acquired taste, but it works with the heat.
Also featured here with the stripe Continental Bermudas are my beat-up hickory MF® Conductor and red Tricot Marin, for a razzle dazzle touch guaranteed to confuse a bat.

The Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat and Continental Bermudas are available from our made-in-USA SPORTSMAN catalog.

Sign up to our newsletter on www.misterfreedom.com for occasional updates on releases and sale events.

Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® “Sportsman Chinos”, NOS cotton-linen slate grey denim twill, Sportsman Catalog SS2021, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Sportsman Chinos, New Old Stock cotton-linen slate grey denim twill.
SS2021 mfsc Sportsman Catalog
Made in USA

We are releasing this season’s Sportsman Chinos as a matching companion to the slate grey Continental Sportcoat and Continental Vest. The fabric is the exact same fancy blend of 60% cotton and 40% linen 8 Oz. denim twill, same NOS batch.

A Continental three-piece suit in slate grey can now be put together from our mfsc Sportsman Catalog of vintage-inspired made-in-USA menswear!

The NOS pocketing/facing may differ slightly for each of those three pieces, but consider this as a stylistic nod to eclectic miss-match linings of period tailor-made garments, when fabric availability was limited and all yardage was considered precious. We like this no-waste approach.
Please note that the slight color variation of the slate grey jacket/pants set in the photos above reflect the fact that my Sportcoat is from 2016 and was washed a few times, and the 2021 Chinos have merely been rinsed. This light-colored denim fabric actually has very nice patina potential.

Our Sportsman Chinos and Continental Trousers feature similar design details, but differ fit-wise. While the top block is comparable on both models, the Sportsman Chinos are cut with a more generous 40s/50s-style leg, and the Continental Trousers have a slimmer leg profile. The choice is a matter of one’s personal style preferences and body type.

The Sportsman Chinos are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, inspired by vintage 1940’s-50’s cotton twill work pants and classic mens trousers tailoring.
FABRIC:
New Old Stock, 8 Oz. slate grey denim twill, blend of 60% cotton and 40% linen, probable Italian mill origin.
Pocket bags: Fancy NOS Dobby stripe, 100% cotton.

DETAILS:
* Relaxed vintage silhouette and fit.
* Button fly, brown corozo wood buttons.
* Flat-felled side seams.
* Welt-type rear pockets.
* Original combo belt loops, wide & narrow.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, French vintage NOS metal slide buckle.
* New Old Stock fancy Dobby stripe pocket bags, white/grey stripes.
* Watch pocket.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread, flat felled seams construction.
* MF® Sportsman signature green inside chainstitch.
* “Action Crotch” gusset.
* MF® “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on waist band, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The SPORTSMAN CHINOS are sold RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size following the usual protocol:
• Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
• Washing machine spin dry.
• Line dry. (No heat dryer)

These trousers are true-to-size, with a ‘forgiving’ waist (aka vanity size), adjustable via the rear cinch. Go for your usual size in mfsc pants, but consider that the full leg and higher rise will provide an old school vintage work pants silhouette.
I opted for a W30 in these (at 5.7’’ / approx. 150 lbs, I navigate between W30 and W32 in mfsc pants/jeans), as I wanted more of a 60s Continental Trousers silhouette than a 40s/50s workwear chinos fit.
With a generous inseam, the overlocked leg opening is left open to your cuffing preference. I opted for a simple 1.25 inch hem, DIY with a regular single needle machine.

CARE:
When needed, machine wash on DELICATE, pants inside-out, cold water with minimal environmentally-friendly detergent and line dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle, as you wouldn’t with any piece of menswear suiting.
Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021