Mister Freedom® LAWRENCE Jacket 36A2, Sunshine Edition.
Mister Freedom® LAWRENCE Jacket 36A3, Sunshine Edition.
Mister Freedom® LAWRENCE Jacket 38C1, Sunshine Edition.
Mister Freedom® LAWRENCE Jacket 38D2, Sunshine Edition.
Mister Freedom® LAWRENCE Jacket 42B1, Sunshine Edition.
Mister Freedom® LAWRENCE Jacket 44E1, Sunshine Edition.
Mister Freedom® Californian Lot.674, “HAWAII SC401” selvedge denim edition.
mfsc FW2020 Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.
The Lot.674 of the MF® Californian Blue Jeans family is our slimmest fit in the five-pocket pattern selection, blending the top block and button fly of the Lot.64 with the leg of the Lot.74. This gives the Lot.674 its slim & lean silhouette characteristic of casual 1960s “stovepipe leg” denim jeans. See here for a recap of our Californian cuts.
The “Hawaii SC401” denim was initially pioneered and trademarked by Toyo Enterprises in Japan in the early 1990s, and milled as an exclusive fabric for their Sugar Cane Co workwear brand. This premium 14 Oz. dark indigo-dyed denim twill is a blend of 50% cotton and 50% recycled sugarcane fibers and features a classic white and green line selvedge. The SC401 is notorious for its subtle indigo shade variations in the yarns, interesting denim nep, attractive slub, “sweet” smell, and most-memorably rewarding fading potential.
MF® OGs will remember that this denim was featured on the right leg of the original mfsc UFO, aka “7161” Utility Trousers, our first collaboration with Sugar Cane Co released back in 2006.
This FW2020 model’s pocket bags are cut from NOS yardage of 100% cotton soft brushed flannel fabric featuring a colorful 1960s vibe paisley-type printed motif.
For the fly, we combined metal finishes with an original MF®-branded brass tack button for the waist and ‘silver’ for the fly. The denim selvedge is classically featured on the outseam, and also used in the watch pocket and button hole placket construction.
The Californian LOT.674 blue jeans “HAWAII SC401” edition are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by traditional 1950′s-1960’s era blue jeans, traditional fit, slightly tapered stovepipe leg for a mid-60’s vibe.
FABRIC:
Sturdy 14 Oz. “401 Hawaii” dark indigo-dyed denim twill, a blend of 50% cotton and 50% recycled sugarcane fibers. White w/ green line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan exclusively for Sugar Cane Co.
Pocketing: NOS printed brushed flannel, 100% cotton, featuring a colorful 1960s vibe paisley-type pattern.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded ‘silver’ tack buttons, topped with brass finish waist button.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS printed brushed cotton flannel pocket bags featuring a 1960s paisley-type motif.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Natural cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (special “Mask-up ya hippie!” tie-dye pattern).
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
The “HAWAII SC401” Californian LOT.674 blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. For instance, a tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry in machine and line dry.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
The “HAWAII SC401” Californian Lot.674 are considered true-to-size.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. (Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow the belly button, not bellow the hips.)
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I opted for a W31 in the Lot.674 “HAWAII SC401”, which tends to be my size of choice for the MF® selection of 1960s slim jeans patterns, such as our the Speedways, Malibu’s, Lot.74, and all Lot.674 models in general.
Please note that the tiny prickly yarns that one might occasionally feel during the early days of break-in the jeans are the actual recycled sugarcane fibers. This potential “discomfort” is temporary, but is worth mentioning for the faint of heart not accustomed to raw denim jeans that haven’t been factory-rinsed.
Cuffing: Playing around with period “flood length” and getting your jeans hemmed to your desired length, rather than doing roll-ups or contemporary stacking, will help convey the sixties vibe of the Californian Lot.674 cut.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning indigo blue/denim garments inside out to avoid marbling during laundering. Machine wash, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Potential attractive patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Please note that dark indigo might cause color transfer, and potentially “bleed” on light-colored garments, furniture, and skin. This indigo color “crocking” is temporary.
Available RAW/unwashed.
Sizes (W is for Waist, measured in inches.)
W 29
W 30
W 31
W 32
W 33
W 34
W 36
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat, 14 Oz. wide-wale corduroy.
FW2020 mfsc SURPLUS Catalog.
Made in Japan.
We released our first take on the 1910s-30s classic melton wool US Navy 10-button front P-Jacket back in 2008, as part of the original “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” line-up. That classic pattern has turned out to be quite a Mister Freedom® chameleon over the years, as we’ve played with its appearance many times.
If the initial SS2008 release was cut from a 14½ Oz. SC301 “Okinawa” fiber denim, later versions have included the 2010 “Midnight P-Jacket” and its 2015 “Caban Peacoat” clone in a 16 Oz. dark indigo warp x black weft “Midnight” denim, the 2016 “Waterfront Coat” in an elegant natural linen/cotton HBT fabric, and finally the rugged 2017 “MAC Jacket” in US Army OG107 cotton-back sateen.
The vintage military P-Jacket (aka Peacoat) pattern has been discussed at length with each release on this blog, with this post going quite deep down the rabbit’s hole, for those interested in historical fashion tidbits and our understanding of Costume History.
This FW2020 cru is another demilitarized take on US Navy peacoat early models, blending elements of civilian vintage Mackinaw jackets and mid-century car coats.
The shell fabric of the “ROAMER Car Coat” was inspired by that of an old 1930s French “Velour d’Amiens” work jacket from our archives, a grade of heavy wide-wale cotton corduroy (gros velour côtelé) typical of vintage European working class meets country gentlemen garb.
Competing with the British Lancashire textile industry at the time, French mills established around the City of Amiens had been producing this workwear corduroy grade since the 18th Century. If some still refer to heavy corduroy fabric as Manchester in some parts of Europe, “Velour d’Amiens” is the term that is familiar to French old-timers.
Cosserat, a French mill founded around 1793, and one of the last velour côtelé manufacturer from Amiens, permanently closed its doors in 2012. With low-cost corduroy manufacturing coming out of China flooding the market, management of the long-standing Coserrat mill eventually gave up on restructuring attempts, and genuine “Velour d’Amiens” is sadly no longer manufactured.
For those interested in vintage European workwear, the latest issue of Eric Maggiori‘s excellent AVANT publication features insightful and well-illustrated interviews of several major collectors, photos of rare pieces and tutorials.
As we had done for the MATTOCK Jacket, we reached out to our friends at Toyo Enterprise to source-out a fabric reminiscent in texture and feel of traditional “Amiens” workwear corduroy. The specific “oxidized” black color of the original 1930’s French hunting coat was expertly matched by a Japanese dyehouse, and the resulting color has that je-ne-sais-quoi that looks authentic and vintage.
For the lining, we went with an American classic, a warm and soft wool blend insulating fabric sometimes referred to as “canteen blanket”, “Troy blanket”, or “Alaska blanket”. It is our first time featuring this particular olive green/grey dominant stripe blanket pattern.
The traditional double pocketing of the lining has been updated for the 21st Century by adjusting the size of the lower “cigarette pocket” to fit the average smart phone, rather than a pack of Lucky Strike. The combination of both old school low-tech fabrics gives the ROAMER an average resistance to cold, making it quite ideal during mid-seasons in temperate climates.
The choice of leather piping pocket openings and arrowhead pocket stops is a feature found on sought-after early Mackinaw coats. The black tea-core leather trim will age gracefully over time with normal wear.
For the double-breasted front closure, we opted for tonal classic tailoring corozo wood buttons. A discreet naval reference was kept, with the small foul anchor button holding the removable chin strap under the collar.
The Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, freely inspired by 1910’s -1930’s US Navy and US Coast Guard sailor wool peacoats of the early 10-button pattern, 1930’s-40’s vintage mackinaw-type outdoor coats, and blending New World and Old World flavors.
FABRIC
Shell: Heavy 14 Oz. wide-wale corduroy, “vintage” black color, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.
Lining: Soft-hand “Troy Blanket” wool blend fabric, 60% re-used wool, 28% cotton, 12% rayon). Woven in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Early US Navy peacoat double-breasted 10-button pattern.
* Two ‘hand warmer’ slash welt pockets, two hip pockets with flaps, all lined with golden brown cotton-wool blend corduroy.
* Inside lining chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket (resized into an iPhone-size pocket).
* Black tea-core leather piping on pocket opening and arrowhead reinforcement pocket stops.
* Vintage style stripe “Troy” blanket full lining.
* Removable chin strap (displaying either shell or lining fabric when left dangling, or fully-concealed when buttoned under the collar.)
* Traditional Zig-Zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching.
* Rear vent.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Designed in California.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® ROAMER Car Coat comes ready-to-wear and does not require any pre-treatment or soaking.
This jacket is considered true-to-size. We recommend getting your usual size in mfsc jackets. If you are a 38 in our Ranch Blouse or Campus pattern (granted they are pears and apples), you are most-likely a 38 in the ROAMER.
I opted for a medium, for a comfortable fit. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements. Do consider the thickness of the shell/lining combo when comparing these measurements to those of a jacket of a similar style that fits you well.
CARE:
Professional dry clean ONLY, from your local eco-friendly facility.
Available Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
Mister Freedom® PIONEER Jacket, 16 Oz. MIDNIGHT denim edition.
FW2020 mfsc TRUCK STOP collection.
Made in Japan.
The Mister Freedom® PIONEER Jacket is our take on classic westernwear men’s jackets, a style popular in the 1950s-60s.
Labels such as “Pioneer Wear”, “Lasso”, “Trego’s Westwear”, “Land-N-Lakes” and others, all produced models with a similar design, feeding the demand for the “urban cowboy” look.
The fashionable western jacket style basically merged two worlds, the classic tailored menswear high lapel roll single-breasted blazer with the iconic western yoke design. The jackets reconciled rugged Wild West/dude ranch with city slicker fashions, without falling into Grand Ole Opry flashy stage garb. The commun thread was the appeal of the vanished “open range” in American psyche, still glamorized by Hollywood at the time.
The outdoor vibe of those western blazers was enhanced by the choice of fabrics, preferably a trade blanket type, woodsman style wool plaid, or other “frontier days” textile references. The functional expansion pleats “sport back” construction of 1950s models added to the utilitarian vibe.
By the 1970s, popular culture viewed truckers as “the last of the cowboys”, and many wildcatters donned their own mix of western fashion, the inspiration behind our 2020 Truck Stop collection.
We put all the Americana influences above in the MF® blender, and came up with our own hybrid, the PIONEER Jacket. We settled on a specific top block western yoke arcuate, scalloped pocket flaps and swing-back pattern combination. We opted for no padding for a deconstructed silhouette.
Following the wool shadow plaid release, this version of the PIONEER Jacket features an old favorite of ours, the mighty 16 Oz. “Midnight” denim. This hefty dark indigo warp & black weft selvedge twill, milled in Japan, previously appeared on the popular 2015 Caban Peacoat and 2019 Midnight Ranch Blouse & Lot64MD Californian. The fading and patina potential of this fabric is quite phenomenal, as indigo rubs on car seats and sofas testify.
The lining consists of a 100% cotton woven plaid typical of vintage workwear heavy flannels, initially milled by Sugar Cane Co as shirting material.
For front closure, we opted for our original MF®-branded Californian Blue Jeans tack buttons, in brass finish. These classic buttons, usually associated with five-pocket jeans and trucker jackets, give our suit jacket-like midnight denim PIONEER somewhat of a 60s-70s vibe.
The Mister Freedom ® PIONEER jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Shell: Hefty 16 Oz. “Midnight” denim, dark indigo warp & black weft twill, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
Lining: 100% cotton woven plaid heavy flannel, mustard/black/natural dominant. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* An original pattern inspired by vintage westernwear jackets designed for the 1950s-60s urban cowboy.
* Deconstructed silhouette.
* High lapel roll.
* Western arcuate yoke on front/back top block.
* Swing-back expansion pleats construction.
* Original MF® Californian Blue Jeans tack buttons, brass finish.
* Scalloped pocket flaps with plaid flannel facing accents and snap closure.
* Fabric selvedge displayed on welt pocket facing.
* Original mfsc “Truck Stop” woven label.
* Designed in California.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The PIONEER Jacket Midnight denim edition comes UN-WASHED (raw) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation (No machine cycle)
- Washing machine spin dry.
- Wear briefly to set creases and to mold the garment to your body, then hang until fully dry. The arms are cut quite long on this jacket, and the length can easily be adjusted at this stage by folding cuff fabric on the inside, as if pulled by the loose lining. The creased cuffs will basically be set in place when the jacket has dried.
Please note that this Midnight denim is a heavy and stiff twill in its raw state, and will dry to an even stiffer state following the above routine. Caused by the re-activated fabric starches necessary at the milling stage, this stiffness is normal, characteristic of raw denim and garments that are not factory-distressed.
This initial stiffness will gradually subside with normal wear, and plays an important role in the development of an attractive natural patina overtime.
The PIONEER Jacket “Midnight” edition is considered true-to-size. We recommend getting your usual size in mfsc jackets. If you are a 38 in our Ranch Blouse or Campus pattern (granted they are pears and apples), you are most-likely a 38 in the PIONEER Midnight edition.
I opted for a 38 (Medium), for a comfortable fit following a cold-soak/line-dry. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements. We recommend comparing these measurements to those of a jacket of a similar style that fits you well. This is how we measure.
CARE:
This denim garment is stiff, quite heavy when wet, and bulky, so we do not recommend using a home washing machine for cleaning. Washing cycles will cause unattractive marbling of the denim fabric, and may damage both the garment and the machine, even on delicate setting.
When necessary, we recommend hand-washing. Cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Using a heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Available Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
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