FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc Collection preview: “Pioupiou” (JP), “Surplus” (JP) and “Sportsman” (USA).

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “PIOUPIOU” mfsc Collection (made in Japan)

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “PIOUPIOU” mfsc collection.

FW2019 MF® “Mecano” Jacket, indigo HBT cotton/linen.

FW2019 MF® “Le Vaillant”, indigo HBT cotton/linen.

FW2019 MF® “Mecano” Jacket, SC 401 Hawaii denim.

FW2019 “Le Vaillant” Pants, SC 401 Hawaii denim.

FW2019 MF® Chemise “Poilu”, blue dobby stripe.

FW2019 MF® Chemise “Poilu”, white dobby stripe.

FW2019 MF® “Musette” mf7161 (Sportsman)

FW2019 MF® Chemise “M-35”, ticking.

FW2019 MF® Chemise “M-35”, indigo linen.

 

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SURPLUS” mfsc Collection (made in Japan)

 

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SURPLUS” mfsc collection.

FW2019 MF® “Mattock” Jacket, corduroy.

FW2019 MF® “Trailblazer”, brushed sateen, rust.

FW2019 MF® “Trailblazer”, brushed sateen, Prussian Blue.

FW2019 MF® “N-1H” Deck Jacket, brown Jungle Cloth.

FW2019 MF® “Tonkinoise”, double indigo.

FW2019 MF® “Mulholland DRIZZLE-KING”, cachou canvas.

FW2019 MF® “Mulholland DRIZZLE-KING”, cachou canvas.

FW2019 MF® “Mulholland DRIZZLE-KING”, cachou canvas. DIY beeswax-treated prototype.

 

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” mfsc catalog, Fall/Winter 2019 (made in USA)

 

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” mfsc catalog additions.

FFW2019 MF® “Baloo” Black edition, black tea-core cowhide..

FW2019 MF® Californian” Lot.54BB, NOS Cone Mills denim.

 

FW2019 MF® “Ranch Blouse” and “Californian” Lot.64, indigo x black ‘Midnight’ denim edition.

FW2019 MF® “Ranch Blouse”, indigo x black ‘Midnight’ denim edition.

FW2019 MF® “Californian” Lot.64, indigo x black ‘Midnight’ denim edition.

FW2019 MF® “Speedways”, NOS ‘beatnik green’ corduroy.

FW2019 MF® “Campus” Jacket, ‘Stallion’ edition, black tea-core cowhide.

FW2019 MF® “Sportsman Chinos”, NOS 2×1 denim.

 

 

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc collections.

Our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Fall/Winter 2019 contribution to the world of Menswear fashion this up-coming season will consist of three groupings, FW2019PIOUPIOU”, “SURPLUS” and “SPORTSMAN”.

The “PIOUPIOU” collection is our 2019 theme-based capsule collection.
The obsolete term “Pioupiou” was a happy-go-lucky nickname given to French soldiers heading out to the frontlines on the onset of WW1. As the “Great War” (1914-1918) dragged on, and trenches of the Western Front revealed their terrifying reality, the sobriquet quickly changed to “POILU” (literally ‘hairy’), ’tough guy’ or badass in period jargon…
Our collection is loosely inspired by French military-issued garb of the 1910’s to the 1930’s. It blends period utility uniforms and revisited vintage civilian attire into contemporary wearables, following the usual MF® “might have been” design approach.
The FW2019 “PIOUPIOU” line-up, all garments produced in Japan, will consists of:
1) “MECANO” Jacket:
* Indigo cotton/linen HBT, 15 Oz.
* 14Oz. SC 401 “Hawaii” selvedge denim.
2) Pantalon “LE VAILLANT”:
* Indigo cotton/linen HBT, 15 Oz.
* 14Oz. SC 401 “Hawaii” denim.
3) Chemise “POILU”:
* 100% cotton blue sateen/popeline dobby stripe
* 100% cottonwhite sateen/HBT dobby stripe.
4) Chemise “M-35”:
* 100% indigo Linen plain weave.
* 100% cotton indigo stripe ticking, 4.5 Oz.

The SURPLUS” collection, our twist on classics and all-original vintage-inspired creations, produced in Japan, will consist of:
1) “MATTOCK” Jacket:
Heavy Corduroy, camel color, 14 Oz., with “Troy Blanket” lining.
2) “MULHOLLAND DRIZZLE-KING” Jacket:
100% cotton “Cachou” Brown canvas, 13 Oz.
Also shown on the photos is a DIY beeswax-treated prototype.
3) “TRAILBLAZER” Shirt:
100% cotton Brushed Sateen, Rust color or Prussian blue.
4) N-1H Deck Jacket:
100% cotton Jungle Cloth, 14 Oz., “Mulholland” brown.
5) “TONKINOISE” Shirt:
“Gunslinger” double indigo selvedge twill, 12.4 Oz.

The SPORTSMAN” collection, our on-going catalog of classics and all-original vintage-inspired creations, made in USA, will consist of:
1) “BALOO” Jacket, Black Edition:
USA-sourced MF® exclusive black tea-core (chashin) cowhide, brushed cotton flannel lining.
2) “RANCH BLOUSE” Midnight:
16 Oz. “Midnight” selvedge denim, indigo x black twill.
3) “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.64 Midnight:
16 Oz. “Midnight” selvedge denim, indigo x black twill.
4) “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.54 Buckle Back:
NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. selvedge indigo denim.
5) “SPEEDWAYS” Jeans:
NOS 100% cotton corduroy, “beatnik” green.
6) “CAMPUS” Jacket, ‘Stallion’ Edition:
USA-sourced MF® exclusive black tea-core (chashin) cowhide, unlined.
7) “SPORTSMAN CHINOS” Frontier:
NOS 10.5 Oz. 2×1 rigid denim.
8) “GI” HENLEY”:
NOS indigo rib knit, 100% cotton.
9) “MUSETTE” MF 7161: (pictured above with the “Pioupiou” Collection)
NOS waxed canvas, navy blue, chainstitch.
10) JD “SCUTTLER” Cap: (pictured above with the “Pioupiou” Collection)
NOS French workwear woven stripe, 100% cotton.

Voila!

Drop dates for these FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc pieces should start beginning August 2019, as production in ethically-operated Japan and USA factories completes.
Each garment will be fully documented on this blog at the time of release, and the whole line-up will be available from www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store. A selection of mfsc FW2019 will also be available from fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you very much for your support.
Sincerely,

Christophe LOIRON
MF®
©2019

Mister Freedom® MUSETTE “mf7161” waxed canvas and “Biribi” indigo ticking, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® “MUSETTE mf7161”
Sportsman catalog x FW2019 PiouPiou.
Made in USA.

The MF® “Musette” pattern was introduced sometime in 2011, and is our interpretation of the M1892 haversack issued to French troops from the late 1800’s to the mid 1930’s. These “bread bags” were mostly used for carrying provisions. Soldiers on the front lines frequently carried two, packed with a loaf of bread, saucisson, and the daily ration of Père Pinard (250ml in 1914, 500ml in 1916… and a full 1/4 galon bottle by 1918) to numb the gruesome reality…

Our 2011 model, the Musette “Biribi”, was initially released in NOS indigo stripe ticking. This updated 2019 “Biribi” Type II features the same shell fabric but an Olive Drab adjustable strap (Vietnam-era NOS US Mil-Specs OD cotton webbing) and matching flap facing (NOS OD cotton HBT).

To compliment our mfsc FW2019 “PIOUPIOU” capsule collection, we are also issuing a modified version in a dark navy blue waxed cotton canvas. We have added an inner dividing panel. The custom chainstitched “mf 7161” Musette adornment, embroidered on a vintage hand-cranked CORNELY machine, is a reference to French military wool blanket markings of the period. The flap is unlined but is backed by a large blank cotton muslin patch, ready for personal markings.

The adjustable shoulder strap is cut from Vietnam-era NOS US Mil-Specs Olive Drab cotton webbing, and features a vintage-style two-prong metal buckle. The strap slack can either be slid through the buckle, or inserted through the webbing loop.

Note: These are unstructured bags. Neither models are padded and should not be considered as shock-proof protective carrying sleeves for laptop computers or iPads.

The Musette mf7161 is designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
1) “Biribi” model: NOS indigo stripe ticking, selvedge ID. NOS Olive Drab cotton HBT facing.
2) “mf7161” model: Navy blue waxed cotton canvas, moderate water-repellent properties.

DETAILS:
* Original MF® pattern, inspired by French military M1892 haversacks.
* Approximate dimensions: 14 inches x 11 inches x 1½ inch.
* Intricate construction with no open seams or overlock.
* Double layer body.
* Light weight.
* Adjustable shoulder strap.
* Vintage genuine bone buttons.
* “mf7161” model only: indigo stripe ticking inner divider, custom chainstitch embroidery on flap, backed with solid muslin patch for perso markings.
* Made in USA.

Available pre-rinsed only (“Biribi” model), and raw only (“mf7161” model)

CARE:
Machine wash when necessary, delicate cycle, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
The waxed canvas Musette may need to be hand re-waxed after wash to regain its somewhat water-repellent properties.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom® “BOWLER”, mfsc SS2019 SURPLUS catalog.

Dude!

Mister Freedom® “BOWLER”.
mfsc SS2019 Surplus Catalog.
Made in Japan.

If you have an urge to strike ten in the pit, channel your inner Jesus, here is a fun little number, a whimsical slice of classic vintage Americana from the Mister Freedom® mfsc Surplus catalog. We opted to go light for the final seasonal drop of SS2019. This one is for playtime!

The body of this MF® original is inspired by classic 1940’s bowling shirt specimens, featuring rounded tails and rear panel expansion gussets/waist cinch pattern. The body fabric is the typical all-rayon material of vintage high-end bowling shirts, cool and comfortable. The back features an original MF® graphic in traditional old school promotional fashion, machine chain-stitched by Toyo Enterprises’ expert garment ornamentation specialists in Japan.
We only made very few of these.

The Mister Freedom® “BOWLER” is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Classic and luscious 100% rayon material.
Two color options, black or cream.

DETAILS:
* Pattern inspired by classic 1940’s and 1950’s bowling shirts.
* Open loop collar.
* Rear panel expansion gussets and waist cinch stitching.
* Original MF® graphic machine chain-stitched embroidery.
* Composite buttons.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® “BOWLER” is ready-to-wear. These have been professionally rinsed and steamed, and no initial soak/processing is required.
The “BOWLER” is cut quite generously, and I opted for a SMALL.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate off-the-rack measurements.

CHART

CARE:
Professional dry-clean only, in your local environmentally-conscious facility.
If considering hand-washing, do not use heat dryer.

Available pre-rinsed.
Sizes
Small (14-14½)
Medium (15-15½)
Large (16-16½)
X-Large (17-17½)
XX-Large (18-18½)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

They’re back! Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse & Californian Lot.64 Buckle Back “Okinawa”, mfsc SS2019 restock, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Californian Lot64BB “OKINAWA” (worn CL perso, FW2017)

Mister Freedom® Californian Lot674 “OKINAWA” (worn CL perso, SS2017)

Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse “OKINAWA” (raw) & Ranch Blouse Lot.64 (worn JG perso, FW2013)

Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse Lot.64 (worn JG perso, FW2013)

 

Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse & Californian LOT.64 BB “OKINAWA” edition.
Sportsman catalog, mfsc SS2019 RESTOCK.
Made in USA.

These two numbers were initially released during FW2017.
All sizes of the popular Mister Freedom® “OKINAWA” Californian Lot64BB and Ranch Blouse are back in stock for SS2019.
Fabric and specs are exactly the same as the original release.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®

©2019

Mister Freedom® Continental Bermudas, NOS cotton-linen “Congo Gab” & NOS Crosshatch Moss Denim, SS2019 Sportsman catalog, made in USA.

Continental Bermudas, NOS cotton-linen “Congo Gab” & cotton-linen Crosshatch Moss Denim.
mfsc SS2019 Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

We introduced our Mister Freedom® “Continental” series in early 2016, an unpretentious all-made-in-USA casual suiting concept consisting of three new patterns – Continental TrousersContinental VestContinental Sportcoat – seasonally released in a combination of vintage New Old Stock fabrics.

The Mister Freedom® “Continental” family, Sportcoat, Vest & Trousers. Made in USA.

We added a new member to the family during Spring 2018, the Continental Bermudas.

The MF® Bermudas’ pattern is derived from the original Continental Trousers, our interpretation of classic late 50’s-mid 60’s casual slacks. These tailored short trousers are a departure from, no offense, dad’s favorite 1990’s cargo shorts, the recreational fisherman’s best friend. We aimed for a more elegant silhouette on this project, more summer in the Bahamas than Sunday at Home Depot.

Anchored in a British military style tradition allegedly dating back to WW1, original ‘bermuda shorts’ called for a length of approximately one inch above the knee, which we stuck with. Whether you go for the mandatory knee-length socks, blazer and tie dear to the respectable Bermudian keen on proper insular business attire, is up to you. For a casual stroll around town in old-school Ivy League style, we think you’ll do just fine with a simple Stanley or Berkeley shirt, topped with an unstructured Continental Sportcoat, and shod in a pair of vintage penny loafers or wingtips… Better yet, do your own thing, and forget “influencers”!

The above-the-knee target length will obviously depend on where one considers the waist line to be. Our Continental Bermudas feature a mid-to-high rise, and, call us old-fashioned, we tend to think of the waist as a natural line falling right above the hips. The simple single needle hem can easily be tailored to one’s length of choice. A shorter length might convey more of a sporty and contemporary vibe, although you might want to consult with your partner before going full Daisy Dukes.

For this SS2019 release, we opted for two distinct New Old Stock fabrics from our vault, previously featured in the Sportsman catalog as iterations of the Ranger Shirt, and Continental Sportcoat, Vest, and Trousers.
The first fabric is a crosshatch (slubby warp and weft) denim twill, a fancy 70% cotton/30% linen blend, milled in Italy. This elegant yet rugged indigo moss blue cloth will fade to an attractive range of blue hues overtime, with the typical uneven crisscross “ring” lines of crosshatch denim.

The second option, an off-white “Congo Gab” fabric, is an 8.85 Oz. blend of 86% cotton and 14% linen, an elegant ivory white twill with a subtly-contrasting darker heather oatmeal weft. The face of this denim-like fabric features unbleached yarns, while the reverse displays slubby flecks of natural fibers. For those intending to pair these white bermudas with the SS2018 Continental “Congo Gabardine” Sportcoat, please note that the jacket features the oatmeal side as the face, and both piece will not match as a two-piece suit.
Our choice of “Congo Gabardine” terminology, although technically inaccurate, is a nod to vintage “Congo Cloth”. Refer to the original post and its illustrations for a bit of rambling on the subject.

For pocketing, we have outfitted both options with an elegant European woven stripe lining fabric, previously featured on the black Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit.

The Continental Bermudas are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by vintage late 1950’s and early 1960’s casual slacks with a classic, slim silhouette. Mid-to-high rise.

FABRIC OPTIONS:
a) New Old Stock 11 Oz. Crosshatch Denim Twill, indigo moss blue (blue with a greenish sheen), slubby 70% cotton 30% linen blend, milled in Italy.
b) New Old Stock ivory white twill, 8.85 Oz., blend of 86% cotton and 14% linen,  slubby oatmeal flecks and white warp, with off-white heather weft, milled origin unknown.
Pocketing:  NOS fancy woven stripe 100% cotton plain weave (ivory white with blue & grey stripes), milled in Europe.

DETAILS:
* Elegant late 1950′s early 1960’s type silhouette and fit, above the knee length.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckle.
* Amber brown corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Rear welt pockets, watch pocket.
* Coin pocket.
* Trousers-style belt loops.
* Crotch gusset pattern.
* Flat-felled side seam “caballo” construction.
* 100% cotton NOS fancy European woven stripe twill pocket bags and waist band.
* Tonal 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstitch MF® signature accents.
* Original “SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed when wearing a belt.
* Made in USA.

SIZING:
The MF® Continental Bermudas come raw/unwashed.
Both fabric options will shrink to approximately the same size after a 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
These are “vanity size”, with somewhat of a generous waist that can be cinched with the rear adjustable strap. I tend to fluctuate between W30 and W32 in mfsc trousers, according to the model, and opted for a comfortable W32 in the Continental Bermudas, in both fabrics.

Refer to sizing chart for cold soak/spin dry/line dry measurements.

CARE:
Launder when necessary.
Machine wash on delicate, garment inside-out, cold water with minimal environmentally-friendly detergent and line dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
NOTE: Full washing cycle in hot water and machine dry might result in excessive shrinkage and color loss. Not recommended.

Available Raw/unwashed
Sizes
28
30
32
34
36
38

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018

Mister Freedom® BERKELEY pull-over shirt, NOS Italian Linen, Sportsman Catalog Spring 2019, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® “BERKELEY” Pull-over Shirt.
New Old Stock Italian linen.
SS2019 mfsc “The SPORTSMAN” catalog.
Made in USA.

The MF® “Berkeley” is a no-frills, pull-over type shirt with a vintage preppy vibe, a nod to 1960’s American campuses attire, California old-school collegial wear and casual Ivy-League style. The moniker is a reference to UC Berkeley, and its rich history.

Introduced during Spring 2018 and initially released in two bleeding madras“ options, the MF® “BERKELEY” shirt pattern is part of our on-going production of all made-in-USA originals, regrouped under the Mister Freedom® “Sportsman” catalog. A long-sleeve version was subsequently made available in an indigo/white hickory stripe twill and a brown “Cacao” chambray.

The NOS fabrics of this SS2019 release are quite contemporary but boast a fancy old-school pedigree. They were produced by the Italian mills of the renown ALBINI Group, purveyor of fine tailoring textiles since 1876. We were lucky to score some yardage of two distinct yarn-dyed plain weave linen Albini fabrics in a Los Angeles warehouse, and jumped on the opportunity to take the Berkeley on an escapade to Lombardy, for a touch of classic Italian elegance.

These two summer fabrics are light weight and breezy, featuring a subtle sheer, a crispy dry hand, and the typical wrinkled look and classic drape of 100% linen woven cloth.

Somewhere in a Los Angeles warehouse…

The long-sleeve white/blue stripe Berkeley shirt has a bit of a maritime vibe due to the vertical stripe pattern. The short-sleeve blue/red check version carries more of a typical 1960’s casual summer shirt vibe. Both are easy-to-wear garments. Each fabric option is only available in one sleeve length, as released.

The MF® BERKELEY shirt is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, from New Old Stock fabrics.

SPECS:
FABRICS:
a) White & blue woven stripe: 100% linen, light weight, breezy, milled in Italy.
b) Red & blue woven checks: 100% linen, light weight, breezy, milled in Italy.

DETAILS:
* An original MF® shirt pattern inspired by vintage 1960’s Ivy League style and American campuses attire.
* Pull-over type.
* Button-down collar.
* Amber brown corozo wood “Cat-Eyes” buttons.
* Two inverted-pleat chest pockets.
* Side gussets.
* Tailored-style sleeve setting.
* Chain-stitch construction.
* MF® woven “Sportsman” rayon label.
* Designed and made in USA from New Old Stock fabrics.

SIZING/FIT:
Both linen options of the Mister Freedom® SS2019 BERKELEY shirt come raw/unwashed and will shrink to the same tagged size after an initial 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
I wear a Medium (15-15½) in most mfsc button-down shirts and I opted for a comfortable Medium for the white/blue stripe (same size choice I had made for the madras versions), and a snug Small for the red/blue checks.
For a relaxed fit, we recommend getting your usual mfsc shirt size.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

   

CARE:
Due to the delicate nature of the fine-woven linen fabric, consider and handle the SS2019 BERKELEY as a fragile garment. Hand washing is preferable, but the shirts can be machine-washed on delicate/gentle cycle, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Un-button the shirt before washing (collar and front.) Do not launder with clothing containing sharp hardware (metal buttons, metal zippers, hooks,…) to avoid snagging and overall damage to the shirt.

Available RAW (unwashed).
Two options: L/S white & blue stripes and S/S red & blue checks.
Sizes
Small (14-14½)
Medium (15-15½)
Large (16-16½)
X-Large (17-17½)
XX-Large (18-18½)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019