Mister Freedom® “DUNE BUGGY” Jacket, cotton-rayon sateen-back , SS2019 mfsc “Yucatán” Collection, made in Japan.

Papy, instant desert rat, real as a three dollar bill! MF® DIY, The Look You Want – When You Want It!

Mister Freedom “DUNE BUGGY” Jacket.
SS2019 mfsc “YUCATÁN” collection.
Made in Japan.

The making-of this next number is a long – brace yourselves – and soporific story, harking back to my Los Angeles days of relentless thrift-store-hunting and flea-market-prowling…
As a rule I learned during my “American rag Cieboot camp years as a picker, I’d usually pass on poly-cotton garments. But there was something about that 60’s black and white racing jacket I couldn’t leave behind, despite its large modern-looking “Solar Productions” chest patch that threw me off at the time. That was no STP coolness, I thought. Late 1990’s…
If I remember well, this number came out of  Aadvark´s, a today-defunct SoCal vintage clothing store chain with reputedly low-priced hidden treasures, if one took the time to weed through the ocean of run-of-the-mill garb, and knew the trade. The jacket, manufactured by ¨Bowler’s Shirt and Uniform¨ of Los Angeles, was intriguing. No iPhone to google it up on the spot, so i shelled the $20 bucks or so, and took it home, saving it from its Halloween costume fate…

Sported it around town on several occasions, as all I owned were vintage duds at the time. Unsure how I eventually figured out that ¨Solar Productions¨ was Steve McQueen´s own film production company, established around 1965, later located on the CBS lot in Studio City, California. Score!
This piece is one of the very few lucky find that I managed to hold-on to, in my 30 years in the vintage schmatta. The hunt is exciting, but collecting and hoarding less appealing, to me.

Fast-forward to 2018. While working on our ¨YUCATÁN¨ SS2019 mfsc capsule collection, pulling-out that old jacket out of the closet made sense. Quick research had yielded several photos of McQueen himself sporting his, along with other members of the Solar crew. These on-set pictures were mostly captured during the 1969-70 scouting and filming of ¨Le Mans¨ in France. Check-out the bookLe Mans in the Rearview Mirror“.
I’ve always wondered who initially owned that jacket scored some 20 years ago. How many were produced and distributed for promotional purposes? Solar Productions HQ consisted of a staff of about 25 people in 1968. Did mine belong to one of McQueen’s buddies, or employees, or, could it be… ??!
I’ll never know, but that thing sure is a keeper!

An original late 1960’s “Solar Productions” film crew jacket, a lucky thrift-store find in the late 1990’s. (Mister Freedom® Archives)

Back to the MF® Design Dept… It was of course out of the question to replicate that vintage piece verbatim, for obvious Intellectual Property concerns, and because McQueen Racing, Chad McQueen’s company, should obviously be first to release a replica or reissue of the original “Solar Production” crew jacket design.

For our project, we merely used the jacket as an inspiration spark and for its Costume History value, following instead the usual might-have-been MF® design approach. We did borrow the cool snap-on throat-latch stand collar detail gimmick of the original jacket.
For the rest of the design, we tapped into vintage military gear and decided to merge racing with a 1970´s USAF classic, namely a CWU-7P (Cold Weather Unit) ground crew jacket. The Frankenstein result is a contemporary wearable with a classic, timeless vibe.

For the shell fabric, we opted for a double-face woven textile, cotton face and rayon reverse aka cotton-back sateen, an original fabric inspired by vintage 1950’s ‘weatherproof’ McGregor® Scottish Drizzlers we previously featured on our BREEZER Windbreaker. The “DUNE BUGGY” is cut cotton side-out, with the sateen rayon twill side visible on the tonal ‘racing’ chest stripe. The fabric face is rather matte, contrasting with the rayon sateen sheen.
The lining is an elegant British-style woven plaid, cotton/linen blend, milled in an attractive indigo blue and white tartan.

Our “DUNE BUGGY” jacket’s demeanor is quite sleek and unassuming, with an understated 60’s racing vibe. Unless… you decide to rev-up your speedster street credit overnight with a DIY job, sticking on the jacket all kinds of vintage grease monkey-related patches! Pismo Beach dune-riding Baja Boot special, or motorcycle racing à-laOn Any Sunday” desert-rat… Go, Speed Racer, Go!

The MF® “DUNE BUGGY” Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Shell: Tightly woven blend of 50% cotton (matte face) and 50% rayon twill sateen (shinny reverse, visible on chest racing stripe), aka cotton-back sateen, milled in Japan.
Lining: Cotton/linen blend woven plaid, indigo and white tartan.
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern blending 1970’s USAF  CWU-7P ground crew jacket, vintage 1960’s racing crew gear, and old Hollywood history.
* Fully lined.
* Understated single racing stripe on chest, displaying the shinier rayon side of the fabric.
* Snap-on throat-latch stand collar 1960’s design.
* Zipper front, 1960’s style vintage Mil-Specs heavy-duty metal zipper.
* Wide lower wrap pockets with slanted snap flaps.
* Single chest pocket with slanted snap flap.
* Wind-flap with zig-zag stitching.
* Snap-on cinch tabs on sleeve cuffs.
* USAF flight jacket-style rear panel shoulder darts.
* Original mfsc “YUCATÁN” rayon woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® “DUNE BUGGY” jacket comes raw/unwashed.

We recommend our usual method for raw washable garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.

This garment is is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
The noticeable difference of shell/lining shrinkage will result in the attractive plaid lining discreetly peeping on the bottom, a subtle cool detail familiar to vintage clothing aficionados.
I opted for a MEDIUM in the “DUNE BUGGY”, my usual size in mfsc jackets. The fit is quite slim but comfortable, with an old-school racing crew jacket silhouette.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Wash separately on delicate (do not use the heavy-duty machine settings, as the metal zipper and pull may damage the fabric during the rapid agitation), cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not use hot water or heat dryer.

Available raw (un-washed)
Sizes
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom® Chemise “MARINA”, Cotton Pique, SS2019 mfsc “Yucatán” Collection, made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® Chemise “MARINA”.
SS2019 mfsc “YUCATÁN” collection.
Made in Japan.

Our “YUCATÁN” capsule collection concept was introduced with the Californian Lot.674 Piqué release.
The vibe of this SS2019 menswear venture is sporty, racy, with a touch of sixties-beachcomber-meets-desert-rat. It is a concise, full-throttle yet-unassuming contemporary collection for grown-ups who have a penchant for classic designs.

The MF® Chemise “MARINA” is our humble twist on the traditional “polo shirt” pattern, so called due to its initial association with the ancient sport of polo. The activity of polo, the “Sport of Kings”, was imported by the Brits in the mid 1800’s, from Manipur, India. Along came the buttoned-down collar style of shirts sported by the local teams of horsemen. This classic garment’s history gets confusing since the term “polo shirt” evolved over time to encompass differing styles.

In the 1890’s, Brooks Brothers introduced its own original so-called “Polo Shirt”, in oxford cotton. That formal design is known today as the “Button-Down” shirt, an office favorite. Brooks Brothers’ specimen, which used to be Made in USA, can be recognized by their embroidered Golden Fleece chest logo.

In the 1920’s, French tennis player René Lacoste thought of revamping the impractical attire of his own sport of choice, white slacks and starched white shirts. His original design was a pull-over shirt in cotton piqué knit, featuring short sleeves with ribbed cuffs molding to the biceps, a rib knit collar that could be flipped-up to protect from the sun, and a “tennis tail”, a longer back panel to prevent untucking while playing.
His sporty design became the “Chemise Lacoste”, establishing the traditional pattern of the tennis shirt, or “polo” style, as it is commonly referred-to today. It rapidly spread to other sports, from golf courses to marinas, becoming a staple of casual menswear.

In the early 1970’s, Ralph Lauren introduced his own “Polo shirt”, pitching its galloping player against the hissing crocodile, adding to the confusion with the “polo” vs. “Polo” terminology, but cementing the design into its contemporary preppy demeanor.

As a casual, sporty, comfortable yet elegant, versatile and time-tested garment, polos were adopted by many stylish men through the years. Period photos abound: a young Steve McQueen hanging, Sean Connery bonding, JFK yachting, Clint Eastwood parroting

If Fedex® and Pizza Hut® also offer their own versions of chest-branded polos today, it is in the popular 1950’s and 1960’s styles that we found inspiration for the Mister Freedom® Chemise “MARINA”.
Our ribbed knit underarm expansion gusset is a familiar classic design detail lifted off vintage sportswear polos, but the choice of chest logo took a little longer to come-up with. We’d seen them all, embroideries or patches: the entire Noah’s Ark (from tigers to dragons), wreaths, golf bags, trophies, umbrellas, skulls, mounted knights, crowns, anchors, cartoon characters, monograms, plain DBA’s, … some more clever than others.
We were aiming for something unique yet classic, elegant yet somewhat witty, unpretentious yet enticing, maybe with a nautical flair?.. We definitely wanted to stay clear from pure in-your-face branding, and picking another animal from the zoo didn’t cut it.
So, after days at the drawing board, we eventually settled on a maritime signal flag gimmick! Diagonal white cross on blue background is international naval code for Mike, the letter “M”. Red diamond on white background is Foxtrot, “F”. Serendipitously, an hoisted Mike flag warns “our vessel is not moving”, and a Foxtrot flag signals “we are disabled”.
In other words, “#%@$! We’re stuck! HELP!
The MF® Design Department was adamant that such semiotics would most effectively convey an earnest and reliable brand image.

The Chemise “MARINA” is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Fine 100% cotton knit piqué, soft and light-weight, milled in Japan.
Three color options for SS2019:
a) White
b) Red
c) Black

DETAILS:
* An mfsc pattern inspired by classic 1950’s-1960’s “tennis” or “polo” type shirts.
* Piqué knit body.
* Original Mister Freedom® “MF 7161” maritime signal flag embroidered chest logo patch.
* Rib knit underarm expansion gusset.
* Versatile ribbed collar.
* Short sleeves with ribbed cuffs.
* Side slits with HBT tape reinforcement construction.
* Subtle “Tennis tail” (one inch difference between front and back length.)
* Genuine Nacre (Mother of Pearl) fancy buttons.
* Original Mister Freedom® mfsc “Chemise MARINA” rayon woven neck label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
All color options of the Chemise “MARINA” come pre-rinsed and tumble-dried.
The shirts are therefore pre-shrunk and ready-to-wear. These feature more of a ‘vintage’ silhouette than your average contemporary polo shirts.

I went for a Medium with the Chemise “MARINA”, with a trim but comfortable fit. A Small was personally out of the question with this garment, to avoid the cropped-top look.
For info, I usually opt for Small in Mister Freedom® knitwear – Stanleys and Skivvies, Tricot Marin, GI Henley – due to a subjective preference for old-school silhouettes rather than contemporary streetwear vibes.
The cotton pique knit body has quite a mechanical stretch (the fabric naturally stretches if you pull on it), but will pretty much recover and retain its initial shape.

Please refer to sizing chart, reflecting fully-rinse and tumble-dried measurements. All shirts come pre-shrunk.

CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Hand-wash or machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Consider the Chemise “MARINA” as a delicate garment, and do not launder with clothing containing sharp hardware (metal buttons, metal zippers, hooks,…) to avoid snagging the pique knit fabric and overall damage to the shirt.

Available rinsed/pre-shrunk.
Color options: White, Red or Black.
Sizes
Small (14-14½)
Medium (15-15½)
Large (16-16½)
X-Large (17-17½)
XX-Large (18-18½)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom® “SECOYA” Double-Back Ventilated Work Shirt, Selvedge NCT Chambray, SS2019 mfsc SURPLUS catalog, made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® “SECOYA” Double-Panel Ventilated Work Shirt, selvedge “NTC” Chambray.
SS2019 mfsc Surplus Collection.
Made in Japan.

For this mouthful of a shirt, the “SECOYA” Double-Back Ventilated Work Shirt in selvedge “NTC” Chambray, we basically combined two classic vintage work shirt patterns lifted-off two specimen of the MF® archives, located at 7161 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90036, USA, and open daily from 11:00PM to 06:00PM, unless we’re gone fishing, or getting our nails done next door.

Design-wise, we simply merged one rare and plain 1930’s pull-over chin-strapped no-name work chambray, with the tricked-out “Double-Panel” pattern of a vintage 1940’s STURDY OAK work chambray.
If the workwear division of Sears, Roebuck & Co under the STURDY OAK label produced the famous “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern, often complimented with “Ventilation Eyelets”, other mail-order catalog companies such as Montgomery Ward & Co, Spiegel or JCPenney also offered a version in the 1940’s -50’s. We have yet to see one in a pull-over pattern, but it probably existed.

For the moniker, secoya is Spanish for sequoia, an obvious woodsy reference to the rugged and manly “STURDY OAK” label. Other innocent candidates thrown about around the office at the time, such as “The Woody”, didn’t pass the MF® Censoring Dept.
So, SECOYA it is, a hard choice.

As a design anecdote, the aforementioned vintage STURDY OAK chambray shirt from our archives was initially scored without buttons. We opted to attach a mixed bag of vintage tin-pressed type buttons on it, before sending the shirt to Sugar Cane Co for the next R&D stage. Mr. Fukutomi, Toyo’s one-and-only talented pattern maker, sourced-out replica of these exact same buttons, and managed to re-create the same effect on his first prototype. We decided to keep that ‘random’ miss-matched look for production. On period workwear pieces, with buttons falling-off and garments getting repaired instead of being discarded, finding a combination of contrasting buttons on one single garment is not uncommon.

For the fabric of the ‘SECOYA”, another stroll down Memory Lane brought us to our earliest collaboration with Sugar Cane Co: the 2008 mfsc “Naval Clothing Tailor” collection. We decided to have another fresh batch of “NCT selvedge chambray” milled in Japan, to the exact same specs as our original 2008 “mfsc Nº645 Utility Chambray”, a shirt familiar to the MF® OG’s, back when exposing the selvedge on a garment sounded like a good idea.

For a conspicuous texture and color contrast irresistible touch, the facing of the button plackets/cuffs/chest pockets is cut from another mfsc old salt favorite, a fine indigo-dyed and tightly-woven cotton poplin with promising fading properties.

Due to the double layers, multiple stitched seams, contrasting poplin facing and overall high-count cotton stitching, subtle variation of shrinkage will result in attractive puckering and roping, giving the “SECOYA” a vintage garment look after just a few normal laundry cycles.

The “SECOYA” Double-Panel Ventilated Work Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Fine and lightweight 3 Oz. indigo yarn chambray with a white/red selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage 1930’s-1940’s classic American fancy chambray work shirts.
* Pull-over style.
* “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern.
* Ventilation Eyelets on underarm and back panels.
* Selvedge side gussets.
* Chin-strap.
* Indigo poplin facing of the front button plackets/cuffs/chest pockets.
* Mismatch combination of vintage-style tin-pressed metal painted buttons.
* Double chest pocketing, buttoned pockets.
* High-count 100% cotton tonal stitching, chainstitch construction.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.

SIZING/FIT:
The “SECOYA” chambray Work Shirt comes raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. The tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process.
The “SECOYA” is true-to-size. I opted for a MEDIUM, my usual size in mfsc shirting. The fit is quite trim, well-balanced between enough room to pull the shirt on and off without too much struggle, and a flattering a slim silhouette.

Please refer to chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. This explains how we size our garments.
Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Available RAW/un-washed.

Sizes
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf “Rock’n’Roll” Shirt, SS2019 “YUCATÁN FIESTA” edition, made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf “Rock & Roll” shirt, “YUCATÁN FIESTA” Edition.
mfsc Spring 2019.
Made in Japan.

This muy caliente garment is our latest collaboration with the legendary Sun Surf® label, a branch of Toyo Enterprise known around the world for its authentic and expertly-crafted Aloha shirts.
The family-owned Japanese company’s CEO, Mr. Ryoichi Kobayashi, is an avid collector of vintage Hawaiiana. His rare shirt collection has been featured in museum exhibits and in several books. Kobayashi San’s knowledge, demanding standards and team of textile and tailoring experts, all contribute to well-curated collections of replica 1930’s to 1950’s rayon and silk tropical shirts every year.
Check them out for all your “From Here to Eternity” urges, and refer to the “Land Of Aloha” book for the history behind the SUN SURF label, previously mentioned here.

We started our collaboration with SUN SURF back in 2015, introducing the first of our “Rock & Roll” shirt, the “Action Packed” model, released in a whitered and black blend of rayon-cotton. Followed the boppin’ “Rocket 88” edition released during Spring 2016, available in all-cotton ivorydark navy blue and mint green, a tribute to Rock & Roll’s early fifties roots. Unexpectedly venturing to the burning Sahara sands, destination the French penal colonies of North Africa and their inked-up inmates, we then released the BIRIBI edition during Spring 2018.

For Spring 2019, and to compliment the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “YUCATÁN” mfsc collection (story here), we decided to take our seasonal collaboration with the SUN SURF label South of the Border, down Mexico way…

We worked on an all original MF® graphic inspired by vintage Mexican decorative textile crafts, emulating 1950’s-60’s local-made souvenirs popular with American tourists eager to bring home a fun slice of their tequila-infused vacation. Such textile crafts often featured hand-cut stencil or block print graphics, typical ‘naive’ brush strokes coloring, and recurring motifs of bad hombres siesting under their sombreros, head-carrying señoritas and singing caballeros, colorful serapes, hard-working burros under the blazing sun, old mission sceneries… and other bygone Mexico-related decorative stereotypes and clichés. These motifs will be familiar to the vintage tropicana collector, partial to the vibrant primary colors of Mexican hand-painted cotton skirts and other tablecloths oldies.

So we woke the MF® Graphic Department from its customary torpor, and commissioned the “Yucatán Fiesta” shirt graphic. After doodling old-school Mexico-inspired characters on a stencil board, the outlines were cut-out. The artwork was then sprayed-on a white board with black spray-paint. Several hand-coloring versions where then made, using ‘random’ brush paint strokes of mixed media, the most satisfying ones using some old Dr. Ph. Martin’s watercolors we had laying around.
¡Órale!

We then happily passed that hot tamale to the Sun Surf specialists, for the Japanese textile experts to turn paper artwork into fabric print, in two distinct color options. No small feat considering the amount of prototypes that ensued…

For this SS2019 edition of the Rock’n’Roll shirt, we opted for 100% rayon fabric – for that breezy, cool feeling and fine drape – and selected one of Sun Surf®’s time-tested classic body pattern, a typical 1940’s rayon Aloha shirt model with the traditional loop open collar. Same choices than for our popular Biribi Shirt.

The MF® “YUCATÁN FIESTA” Rock & Roll shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sun Surf® and Sugar Cane Co, both divisions of Toyo Enterprise.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
100% rayon fabric, woven and printed in Japan with traditional techniques.
Two color options, white or “faded” black.

DETAILS:
* Limited edition collaboration with the Sun Surf® label.
* Body pattern inspired by classic vintage 1940’s-50’s Aloha shirts.
* Original MF® ‘novelty print’ fabric inspired by vintage Mexico-related textile local-made souvenirs.
* 1940’s-style open ‘loop’ collar.
* Matching-pattern chest pockets.
* Tonal corozo wood buttons.
* MF® x Sun Surf® “Rock & Roll” shirt woven rayon label and “Yucatán” double labeling.
* Packaged is a fancy re-usable cardboard shirting box, featuring original MF® artwork inspired by vintage LP covers.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
Both white and black “Rock & Roll” YUCATÁN FIESTA shirts come ready-to-wear. Do not soak.
We adopted the time-tested sizing of Sun Surf®’s Aloha shirts for this garment. I wear a Medium in most mfsc shirting, and opted for a very comfortable Medium in the YUCATÁN FIESTA shirt. True to size, not intended to be worn tight, or tucked-in.
See sizing chart for approximate measurements, measured straight out of the packaging box.

CARE:
Professional DRY CLEAN ONLY, in your local eco-friendly facility.

Available raw/unwashed.
Sizes
Small (14-14½)
Medium (15-15½)
Large (16-16½)
X-Large (17-17½)
XX-Large (18-18½)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.674, Selvedge Pique Edition, mfsc SS2019 Sportsman catalog, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.674, Selvedge Piqué Edition.
SS2019 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

Our theme-based capsule collection for Spring/Summer 2019 is entitled “YUCATÁN”.

Not just a straightforward allusion to the famous Mexican state on the peninsula notorious for the Mayan ruins and beach resorts, but a reference to the title of a lesser-known unreleased movie project famed actor Steve McQueen worked on in the late 1960’s.
The unfinished but thoroughly-researched project sat in a basement until one fine day of 1996, when Chad McQueen allegedly dusted-off two old leather trunks… packed with leather binders containing a 1,700 page-long scripted storyboard!

The dusty “Yucatan” lost classic treasure… (Photo montage courtesy of biographer Marshall Terrill, Warner Bros, Team Downey.)

Having personally crafted the story, Steve McQueen had carved a perfect role for himself. “Yucatán” apparently recounted the action-packed tropical adventures of a former US Navy diver turned treasure hunter in Southeast Mexico. Motorcycle chases in the desert, ruthless archeological site looters, dune buggy racing, scuba diving in cenotes Promising stuff! Somewhat of the ultimate wild ride from the Gulf of Mexico to the Caribbean Sea, an “Indiana Jones” type saga with Mayan culture as the backdrop, and the cooler king as the rider.
Unfortunately for adventure-action movie fans, the project was eventually abandoned, after “Le Mans” emptied McQueen’s Solar Production‘s coffers.

The ‘treasure’ trunks containing the storyboard ended-up in an auction in Santa Monica, CA, in 2013. Surprisingly, no takers…
“Yucatán” is today property of Warner Bros, and it has been reported that Hollywood star Robert Downey Jr. – and his “Team Downey” – have been hard at work trying to turn the original McQueen’s story into a silver screen blockbuster.
As of 2015, the Yucatán project was still at the developing stage… Considering Mr. Downey’s talent and ressources, I am personally quite looking forward to the film release, if this ‘lost classic’ ever materializes.

More on that story here and there. Official updates on the movie project seem to be posted here

Back to our own line of work, the schmata.
Drawing inspiration from a movie you have yet to see might sound a bit challenging, but this is actually quite along the lines of our “might-have-been” design approach that keeps us clear of straight-up replicas and creatively-repetitive work.

The vibe of our SS2019 “YUCATÁN” fashion venture is sporty, racy, with a touch of sixties beachcomber meets desert rat. This concise, full-throttle yet unassuming collection for grown-ups includes the DUNE BUGGY Jacket, the MARINA Polo, the “Yucatán” Rock’n’Roll Fiesta Shirt, and is complimented by two Sportsman catalog pieces, the COWBOY Jacket and CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 in Piqué.

If the Piqué Cowboy Jacket landed early in the season, its bottom-half Lot.674 companion is just fresh-off the small and busy SoCal factory that proudly and painstakingly produces a large portion of the Mister Freedom® mfsc Sportsman catalog, and all of the Californian family jeans and jackets.

As far as style, piqué jeans with matching jackets became popular with young adults in the early 1960’s, as a casual alternative to blue denim, with Levi’s® leading the trend with its 911 series released in a palette of subtle earth tone colors.
“Color jeans” in general, of assorted woven patterns and from several makers, made their way to American campuses, city streets and film sets. Lee Riders® was popular for its sateen “Westerner” models, Levi’s® for its pique and twills, and Wrangler® for its twill and light blue denim versions. Style icons like Steve McQueen or Paul Newman adopted their own favorites on and off screen, unwillingly promoting the style, contributing to its cool easygoing sixties fashion vibe today.

Our 100% cotton 12.05 Oz. piqué fabric features fine raised vertical cords on the face, with a contrasting waffle-like texture on the reverse. We are releasing it in two distinct color options: natural ‘wheat’ and a specific shade of ’vintage’ sage green. On close inspection, the wheat version features attractive minuscule brown flakes, as the yarn is unbleached.

We introduced our Californian Lot.674 pattern back in 2017, featuring the top block of the Lot.64 combined with tapered leg of the Lot.74, and a button fly. The Lot.674 is our slimmest leg, although not by contemporary fashion standards that have raised the “slim fit” bar to breathtaking (literally) levels, but according to our own classic menswear aesthetics. Refer to this timeline for a summary of the Mister Freedom® five-pocket jeans fits and various fabric releases.

The mfsc CALIFORNIAN Piqué Edition is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
100% cotton 12.05 Oz. piqué fabric, selvedge, milled in Japan.
Two color options:
a) Sage green
b) Wheat (unbleached natural color)

Pocket bags: Fancy NOS woven stripe canvas, 100% cotton.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS fabric pocket bags, fancy woven striped cotton canvas.
* MF® original tonal “M” stitch arcuate design on rear pockets.
* Debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket. Will tan an age nicely overtime.
* 100% cotton thread tonal construction, combining several gauge of thread.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Combination of silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast fly buttons, and MF® brass tack waist button.
* Unmarked copper riveting for reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (chocolate brown).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The Piqué CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 comes UN-WASHED (i.e. raw/loomstate) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.

We recommend our usual method for raw cotton garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.

The Californian Lot.674 Piqué are true-to-size, with the usual “vanity sizing” standard in the industry.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. (Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow the belly button, not bellow the hips.)

I opted for a W31 in the Lot.674 Californian Piqué, which tends to be my size of choice for the MF® style of 1960’s slim jeans patterns, such as our popular Speedways, Malibu’s, Lot.74 and Lot.674 models. When playing around with period “flood length” à-la McQueen, rather than rolled cuffs or modern unsightly stacking, the Lot.674 has a definite sixties vibe silhouette.

Note that unlike most denim fabrics, this piqué fabric will not stretch with wear.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Available RAW/unwashed.
Sage green or Wheat.
Sizes
28
30
32
34
36
38

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019