Mister Freedom® SWABBIES Cut-Offs, Navy Blue HBT, mfsc SS2021 “FROGSVILLE”. Made in Japan.

 

CL chopped Swabbies Cut-Offs.

Mister Freedom® SWABBIES CUT-OFFS, 100% cotton navy blue HBT.
SS2021 mfsc “FROGSVILLE”.
Made in Japan.

The Mister Freedom® SWABBIES were initially released sometime in 2020 as full-legged bell-bottom denim trousers.

The inspiration had come from a rare pair of 1940’s-50’s private-purchase naval dungarees from the “Portlite Uniform” maker. If these conformed to the general silhouette and specs of traditional US Navy-issued denim dungarees, they featured really fancy tailoring and intricate pattern work for a pair of work trousers. The apparently-inconspicuous two front pockets are actually a very clever combination of two types of pocket patterns, slash and patch, a construction tour-de-force on a wrap leg that only makes sense when studying the inside of the pants. Those original MF® SWABBIES featured authentic 1940’s-style navy bells and a traditional high waist.

The SWABBIES CUT-OFFS are a cropped version of the same work pants pattern, bye-bye bells. A common practice in tropical Theater of Operations in the old days, salty Navy personnel would chop-off their faded dungarees and turn them into swim shorts or off-duty bermudas. Another common practice was to undo the top button, and wear the shorts with the waistband rolled-down, as was often the case with UDT Scuba Trunks.

UDT-5 (circa 1943)
Photo licensed from NAVY SEAL Museum.

We hemmed the inseam at about 6 inches, for a mid-thigh length. Cropping higher is a few DIY snips away for those inclined. Note that when left open (un-hemmed), the edge will fray and the fabric will roll, so, easy on the scissors!

We are releasing the Swabbies Cut-Offs in a crisp 100% cotton navy blue HBT, matching fabric to the Frogman Jacket.

The mfsc SWABBIES CUT-OFFS are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Sturdy and crisp 100% cotton HBT (herringbone twill), vintage mil-specs, navy blue color, sulfur-dyed. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern inspired by US Navy 1940’s-50’s private-purchase denim bell bottom trousers aka dungarees.
* Hemmed at mid-thigh, can be cropped to one’s preferred length.
* Wrap leg (no outseam.)
* Black 1940s-style laurel leaf starburst metal donut waist & fly buttons.
* Front pockets combining complex patch-type and slash-type pattern due to the challenge of the wrap leg. No open seams.
* Rear patch pockets cut using horizontal warp.
* Flat lock chainstitch construction.
* Black tonal all-cotton stitching.
* Bar-tacked stress points.
* Woven rayon mfsc “FROGSVILLE” label on inside waistband.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING:
The SWABBIES CUT-OFFS come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

I had opted for a W31 in the Denim Swabbies, for a fitted top block, comfortable thighs and period bell-bottoms. I went with a W30 in the HBT Cut-Offs version.

The waist feels a bit tight after the cold soak, but stretches slightly with a bit of wear, although not as much as the denim model. Note that these are high-waisted shorts, and one might consider the old practice of undoing the top button and wearing the shorts with the waistband rolled-down to tone down the high rise.

CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning the shorts inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

DISCLAIMER: This sulfur-dyed HBT fabric has an intentional low colorfastness and will ‘age’ and look ‘worn-in’ rapidly with normal wear/machine wash routine.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE & CALIFORNIAN Lot.674-2xi, 12.4 Oz. Double Indigo Denim edition, mfsc SS2021, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® BALL TEES, Tubular cotton slub jersey, Sportsman Catalog, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® “RAIDERS” Fatigues, 2×1 Army Denim & Two-Tone OD Herringbone Twill, mfsc SS2021 “FROGSVILLE”. Made in Japan.

 

 

Mister Freedom® RAIDERS Fatigues, 2×1 “Army” denim & Two-Tone OD HBT.
SS2021 mfsc FROGSVILLE collection.
Made in Japan.

Those interested in our choice of moniker for those trousers, and its relevance to our FROGSVILLE SS2021 venture, can refer to Marine Raiders, OSS Maritime Units, early-days US combat swimmers aka frogmen, US Navy SEALs history…
First SEALs” was an interesting read for me last year, where I learned that Italian Decima Mas frogmen (Axis Forces) had been quite involved in shaping-up their Allied Forces nemesis in the Mediterranean theater during WW2.

Our “RAIDERS” Fatigues are inspired by a pair of vintage M1941 utility trousers from our archives, a model issued to USMC personnel between 1942 and 1945 (source) and referred to as second pattern.  Again, we’ll pass on all design credits to Uncle Sam’s Quartermaster Corps, as our creative input was merely to adjust the fit to our liking from the original US Gov-issued fatigues.
All construction details and overall pattern were lifted from the original, granted period variations exist depending on contractors. The M1941 trousers are notorious for their extremely generous leg, shooting straight down from the (very wide) thigh. This “Navy Cut” leg was often tucked-in canvas gaiters.
We kept the idea of the wide cut – the RAIDERS are our widest pant silhouette to date – but tapered the lower leg slightly. There is still plenty of fabric!
The specific M1941 pattern features self-fabric pocket bags and chinos-style waistband construction. 

As often, we played around with fabric options, and our RAIDERS come in two distinct versions:

The first release is one of those “didn’t exist but could have” MF® approaches, and features a 10 Oz. blue denim developed by our friends at Buzz Rickson’s as vintage Mil-Specs “Army” denim. It is a lightweight 2×1 slubby indigo denim twill with a grayish weft, white/blue line selvedge ID. This fabric is reminiscent of early US Army denim dungarees and WW2 barracks bags.

For the second option, we loved the look of our original beat-up USMC trousers a lot and couldn’t help going for a similar vibe, using a sturdy and crisp OD HBT (Olive Drab Herringbone Twill) ready for hard wear.
As a nod to wartime production crunch – surviving vintage specimen featuring contrasting panels from inconsistant dye lots are occasionally found – we played around with two different HBT colors on our RAIDERS. We didn’t want to go full harlequin, so all leg panels were kept as one shade of olive HBT, limiting the khaki HBT accents to the belt loops and lining parts. The contrast is subtle and the colors compliment each others, yet the reference is clear.

The MF® Raiders Fatigues are designed in California by Mister  Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN: Inspired by a vintage pair USMC M1941 Utility Trousers.

FABRIC OPTIONS:
a) 100% Cotton two-tone Olive Drab/Khaki HBT, crisp & dry hand, milled in Japan.
b) “Army” 2×1 selvedge indigo denim twill, 10 Oz., white with blue line selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Period wide leg silhouette.
* Black 13-star metal tack buttons.
* Front slash scoop pockets.
* Rear patch pockets, rounded bottom.
* Self fabric pocket bags.
* Chinos-style waistband construction.
* 100% cotton stitching.
* Overlocked fly flap.
* Original mfsc “Frogsville” woven rayon label.
* Denim model: Selvedge waistband facing. Olive green all cotton stitching.
* OD HBT model: Two-tone contrast khaki/olive accents on belt loops/fly flap/waistband facing. Contrast khaki all cotton stitching.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:

Both models of the MF® RAIDERS Fatigues come unwashed and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this usual protocol before wear:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
  • Washing machine spin dry.
  • Line dry. (No heat dryer)

I opted for a W30 in both models (5.7’’ / approx. 150 lbs), for a fitted top block and wide leg silhouette.

CARE:
Launder when needed. Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Turn trousers inside out to avoid marbling of the fabric.
Wash denim model separately from light-colored garments.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.674, “Golden Blond” Selvedge Pique, mfsc SS2021 Sportsman catalog. Made in USA.