Protected: Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane msfc FW2023 LookBook Preview, PART 2: “SPORTSMAN” catalog & more (internal)
Protected: Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane msfc FW2023 LookBook Preview, PART 1: “Survival School” & Cali-Jan (internal)
Mister Freedom® “One-Zero (1-0) Jacket”, mfsc SS2023 “Frogsville x Saigon Classified” collection. Made in Japan
MF® 1-0 (One-Zero) Smock, black Mil-Specs BR nylon & French Lizard Camo cotton canvas.
SS2023 “Frogsville x Saigon CLASSIFIED”, the story:
Our FROGSVILLE saga is an original stylistic venture freely inspired by Vietnam-era US combat diver imagery, military rigger-made garments and period custom local tailor-made clothes, all thrown in the Mister Freedom® blender, where we translated 1940s-1970s references and vintage influences into modern day wearables.
For those into Military History, intel on that twist – i.e. the secret war happening “across the fence” in South East Asia (1964~1972) – was eventually declassified in the 1980s, and the existence and deeds of SOG unveiled. With the sworn-to-secrecy agreements signed by all SOG members lifted, testimonies of survivors (casualty rate was known to be “100%”) and proper official acknowledgment of the heroic actions of those units were finally made possible. SOG stories even made it to the video game market… no comment on that.
So, grab the popcorn, click here, here (amazing writing skills!), or here, …, and enjoy the rabbit hole.
For facts and visuals, check out author John Plaster’s books, and collector Jason Hardy’s series of well-documented printed photo essays, in coffee table book format. Listen to John Stryker Meyer’s Sogcast for real in the field stories, from the horses’ mouthes. And, of course, Nick Brokhausen‘s mandatory and hysterical “We Few” and “Whispers In The Tall Grass“.
As per MF® SOP, no replicas for us in this SS2023 line up, just (re)imagined garments that “might have been”, with the usual grain of salt and design liberties we like to take with the past.
MF® ONE-ZERO Smock, the inspiration:
On this garment, we are taking design cues and visuals from original One-Zero jackets, as sported by SOG (Studies and Observations Group) Recon Team leaders (1-0, pronounced one-zero) during the Vietnam conflict. On recon missions, a team leader would be assisted by a 1-1 (one-one, American radio operator), a 1-2 (one-two, the third American), and a highly-skilled and combat-seasoned selection of 9-10 indigenous troops (mostly of the Montagnards tribe, or “Yards”, also affectionately referred to as “the little people” by their tall American counterparts.)
Back on point. Three basic types of these black nylon jackets apparently exist (two pull-over front styles, and one full-button style), all developed and designed by legendary Deputy Chief Ben Baker at his CISO (Counter-Insurgency Support Office) supply operation, based on the island of Okinawa, Japan (1963-?), where custom sterile (unmarked, unlabeled and untraceable) gear such as rucksacks, Jungle Boots (the Okinawa Boot that influenced our MF® Trooper design), black pajamas (Uncle Charles’ favorite), sweaters, knives, …, were produced in total secrecy.
CISO 1-0 jackets were initially conceived as light rain jackets to be worn on ops, but were deemed too noisy in the bush and ended up being mostly worn around camp as “party jackets”, with sewn-on unit patches, custom embroideries and morale patches. Needless to say, originals are ultra rare, and I’ve never seen one. To prevent a plethora of knock-offs from flooding the militaria market, collectors are reluctant – and rightfully so – to publish detailed photos of the front, back and inside of those garments. This helps keep fakes out of private collections.
The MF® 1-0 only borrows the name and vibe of CISO 1-0 jackets. Instead of an un-inspired attempt at replicating an original verbatim, or using a civilian sport windbreaker pattern (which the originals were based on), we decided to dissect a basic Belgium Paratrooper 1955 jump smock (a garment with roots in the British paratrooper Denison smocks of WW2), and then imagined the design of what a plausible fourth type 1-0 jacket could have looked like.
We heavily tweaked the smock pattern in order to make it work for our project. We removed the now-useless “beaver tail” (typical paratrooper jacket detail, only useful if you plan to jump off planes), re-adjusted pocket configuration for better functionality, substituted the half-zip with a six brass snaps closure, moved the cinch tabs to the natural waistline, adjusted the length to sit just below the natural waist, etc…
We left the jacket unlined, with all clean seams, another construction challenge. We opted for an inside shoulder yoke cut from contrasting ERDL camo, for that “use whatever fabric is at hand” local tailor or rigger vibe.
The resulting garment features a very intricate construction/design, another “tour de force” from pattern extraordinaire Fukutomi Sensei of Toyo Enterprises.
The MF® 1-0 jacket is available in two distinct fabric options:
The Black nylon version is obviously a direct nod at the vibe of the originals, without the unit patches, featuring a heavy 2×2 100% nylon twill, same shell fabric grade as BR’s (Buzz Rickson’s) vintage Mil-Specs USAF replica flight jackets.
The Lizard (or Lezard) camo version, printed canvas fabric, 100% cotton, is a nod to 1950s French TAP (Troupes Aéroportées), previously mentioned with the 2015 release of the MF® TAP Lezard “Vanden” Jacket.
Our source fabric is a genuine vintage NOS French M1956 canvas quarter-shelter tent. After much internal debating, we opted for a plain weave canvas base this time, as opposed to the HBT of our previously-released Lézard printed fabric from 2015.
This lizard camo version is a functional outdoor pull-over style jacket, for the outdoors, for standing out in urban jungles, and for looking equally ridiculously fabulous.
The MF® 1-0 (One-Zero) Jacket is designed in California by MisterFreedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
2) French Lizard camo, 100% cotton canvas, about 10 Oz. Printed TAP47 pattern, tan/khaki background with minimal bleed-through (= the reverse of the fabric is solid tan)
I’m about 5’7 / 145 Lbs and opted for a SMALL, for a comfortable and fit silhouette that matches my own subjective aesthetics.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Campus Jacket, Midnight Denim edition
We introduced our original veg-tan leather Campus Jacket sometime in 2013, and have been considering a fabric version ever since.
After 10 years of procrastination, and about 3 years of actual R&D, we’re proud to announce the official release of the Campus Jacket Midnight Denim edition!
A bit of manufacturing background story, for those interested.
With the obvious challenges of having to adapt the overall pattern to an entirely new material (leather and woven fabric are two very different beasts in regards to garment construction), the need to tediously re-work seam allowance, using entirely different sewing machines, reevaluating feasibility/functionality of trims, adjusting fit according to fabric shrinkage, investing in costly repeat prototypes and pre-prod sample making, etc…, we had to delay the initial release several times.
For example, the cuff construction and sleeve-mounting technique used on our leather Campus did not work with a fabric shell. Since the Campus Jacket has an unforgiving no-lining design (i.e. no way to hide cheap overlock seams and unsightly construction under a fancy fabric lining), we decided to use the alternative sleeve/cuff pattern of our Ranch Blouse instead. Both Campus and RB morphed into a “Campus Blouse”, if you will, in perfect harmony, with a clean, sturdy, flat-felled “caballo” stitch construction.
Also, due to fabric thickness issues with the seams/caballo machine folding foot, we had to source out a lighter ounce denim for the side gussets and pocketing/welting fabric. We scored a NOS premium double indigo twill, with a subtle and attractive indigo color contrast.
Another challenge was the side cinch tabs… We wanted to keep the straps made of leather, along with the pocket stops, but it proved technically impossible to “sandwich” leather straps in the caballo seams without weakening seam construction. So we went back to the drawing table, and worked on a new cinch strap design/shape, inspired by an old number of ours, the Drover Blouse. Mister Freedom® OGs may remember that 2012 production stunt we pulled… Once the new side strap design worked, we had some cutting dies made, and contracted out the leather trims cutting to a local LA leather factory, so that the leather trims could be dropped off at our local LA denim factory…
After all that back and forth, our beloved local family-owned factory – the same folks who have been producing all of our mfsc USA denim goods since 2007 – even considered giving up on the whole project! Too complicated, time-consuming, no profit there. Can’t blame them considering the very limited quantities we would eventually order from them after all that R&D… But, that family (we love them) takes pride in producing solid garments, so they stuck to the challenge.
Side note, it’s actually the second time the Campus MD is part of our Sportsman Catalog! Production just didn’t materialized the first time MF® HQ announced it. We chose to get it right, rather than to get it right now. Now that’s slow fashion.
So, with no further ado, there it is! The 2023 Campus MD looks goods, fits as intended, construction is clean in and out, and has the Joe Greene paw of approval.
This first fabric version of the MF® Campus features one of our staple denim twill, the mighty 16 Oz. selvedge Midnight Denim milled by our friends Sugar Cane in Japan. Fading potential hardly gets better than that.
And the Mustang is a rental while the old rust bucket gets overdue maintenance repair. My first time driving a muscle car, and loving it!
The MF® CAMPUS Jacket Midnight Denim is designed in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
My leather Campus jacket size is 38. I wear a 36 in this fabric Midnight denim edition, after cold-soak/line dry.
Disclaimer: Using alternative methods for the initial shrink (such as soaking in hot water/full machine wash/heat dryer etc) will result in different sizing measurements, and is not recommended.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Mister Freedom® x SugarCane Co SS2023 “FROGSVILLE x SAIGON” collection preview
Mister Freedom® x SugarCane Co SS2023 Sportsman catalog additions
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co mfsc SS2023 Preview:
Hope this finds you well, healthy, and in good spirits.
Here is a preview of our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane (mfsc) SS2023 collaboration, for your consideration. Two main groupings this season, “FROGSVILLE x SAIGON CLASSIFIED” made in Japan, and “SPORTSMAN” made in USA.
This first grouping blends two familiar original Mister Freedom® concepts, FROGSVILLE and Saigon Cowboy.
Our FROGSVILLE saga is an original stylistic venture freely inspired by Vietnam-era US combat diver imagery, military rigger-made garments and period custom local tailor-made clothes, all thrown in the Mister Freedom® blender, where we translate 1940s-1970s references and vintage influences into modern day wearables.
For those into Military History, intel on that “twist” – i.e. the secret war happening “across the fence” in South East Asia (1964-1972) – was eventually declassified in the 1980s, and the existence and deeds of SOG unveiled. With the sworn-to-secrecy agreements signed by all SOG members lifted, testimonies of survivors (casualty rate was known to be “100%”) and proper official acknowledgment of the heroic actions of those units was finally possible. SOG stories even made it to the video game market…
So, grab the popcorn, click here, here, or here, …, and enjoy the rabbit hole.
For facts and visuals, check out author John Plaster’s books, and collector Jason Hardy’s series of well-documented printed photo essays, in coffee table book format.
As per MF® SOP, no replicas for us in this SS2023 line up, just (re)imagined garments that “might have been”, with the usual grain of salt and design liberties we like to take with the past. Each pieces is easily workable into any classic wardrobe.
This SS2023 chapter of “FROGSVILLE x SAIGON Classified” consists of:
1) ONE-ZERO Smock (Japan):
2) BOONIE Hat “Stingy” brim (Japan):
3) SCUBA Trunks (Japan):
4) SNIPES Shirt (Japan):
5) SWABBIES, Modified (Japan):
6) RnR Shirt, Action Packed, Type II (Japan):
7) Crew Chief, Jungle Green & Black (USA):
8) PT Henley, Jungle Green & Black (USA):
There it is.
Next up is our SS2023 Sportsman line up, all produced in USA.
Besides the usual classic vintage-inspired workwear and rugged Americana additions, the design twist on the more dressy pieces this season is a reference to French “Nouvelle Vague” cinema and period 1960s European continental fashion, worked into contemporary wearables. Think Belmondo in Pierrot Le Fou (1965), or Delon in Plein Soleil (1960), early 60s French Riviera etc.
The SS2023 Sportsman line up consists of:
2) CALIFORNIAN Lot.64, NOS Cone denim:
3) RANCH BLOUSE “Frontier” Duck:
4) CALIFORNIAN Lot.64, “Frontier” Duck:
5) RANGER Shirt, double indigo twill:
6) SLACKS “Nouvelle Vague”, color denim:
7) CONTINENTAL Sportcoat, color denim:
8) ARISTOCRAT Shirt, double indigo twill:
9) BERKELEY BD Shirt, L/S, indigo dobby:
Our original SS2023 “FROGSVILLE x SAIGON Classified” mfsc collection and SPORTSMAN line up are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and exclusively manufactured in Japan and USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, in limited quantities.
As always, besides the classic vintage style references, the common thread in all these original garments is the Mister Freedom® on-going commitment to ethical manufacturing, original designs, and resistance to fast fashion, with styles that will easily incorporate into one’s existing classic wardrobe.
Thank you very much for allowing us to continue doing what we like for all these years, without compromising to lower standards and fleeting fashion trends.
Love from (usually) Sunny California,
Soon available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.