Mister Freedom® ROADSTEADER Cap, NOS selvedge denim, Spring 2018, made in USA.

 

Apache dancers, circa 1925
(Photo Boris Lipnitzki © Roger Viollet)

Mister Freedom® ROADSTEADER Cap
NOS selvedge denim edition
SS2018 Sportsman catalog
Made in USA

The Mister Freedom® ROADSTEADER Cap is the latest addition to our Couvre-Chef Department, consisting of a selection of vintage-inspired headwear, revisited à-la MF®.
The line-up already includes our classic Casquette “La Deffe” and ”Scuttler” Cap, both regularly issued in an assortment of vintage New Old Stock fabrics. The full released range of these two popular models can be seen at our Los Angeles HQ, and some can be spotted atop Jack Sparrow’s head.

Looking at photos of our new pattern, one will notice that the MF® ROADSTEADER is not a vintage replica, but rather a combo of old-school styles, a mix bag of references to bygone fashions and Costume History, all blending into an irresistible piece of accoutrement for the 21st Century snappy dresser!
We drew pointers from the early fashion of the Apaches of the Belle Époque, the flamboyant ruffians who had inspired a Mister Freedom® collection back in 2011. Late 1870’s illustrations of the infamous Parisian gangsters invariably depict their trademark hat, the Casquette Desfoux, aka ‘deffe. Originally a black wool or silk cap with a leather visor (casquette à pont), the style was allegedly borrowed from the Maquignons, livestock traders with a reputation for unscrupulous practices. During the 1880’s, bands of Apaches of the Ville des Lumières also seem to have adopted the Maquignons’ traditional pleated indigo blouse (the biaude or blaude, familiar today to the finest hunters of antique European textiles), along with the wide-wale corduroy trousers favored by wood-workers and farmers.

It may sound quite ironic that, considering how much these french OGs loathed physical work, rather favoring absinthe, pander and larceny, they opted for vestimentary styles so associated with the working class… Might-this have been an underworld well-thought strategy however, one that would facilitate blending in the crowd when chased by a squadron of grippe-coquin (literally “grab-rascal”), aka Gendarmes? Another case for Inspector Clouseau. On a side note for the traveller, don’t go around today addressing a Gendarme as “Monsieur grippe-coquin”, things might get out of hand, and holidays cut short.

All these fine threads could conveniently be stolen from boutiques on the crowded rue Mouffetard (5th arrondissement of Paris), retail destinations such as “Maison Panet”, workwear outfitters and novelty goods purveyors since 1829. On that same street, at number 65, stood another fine establishment belonging to a certain Auguste Bénard, local tailor and… ’inventor’ of the original fashion flares! The flared-bottom trousers that he designed in the 1870’s (“pantalon à pattes” or “pattes d’eph” -literally elephant leg- narrow at the knee with bell-shaped leg opening) were a big hit with the Apaches of the early days, as featured on Théophile Steinlen‘s amazing period illustrations. Speaking of inspiring graphics, check this vintage sheet music blog.

Today, for an older french generation who has no idea who Pikachu is, the street slang term “bénard” stills designates a pair of pants, and “deffe” a generic casquette.

Besides this colorful Parisian influence, our Roadsteader design obviously borrows from the traditional Greek fisherman’s cap, and recreational ‘captain’ hat styles, in-turn inspired by military naval covers. This external blog post is a fun illustrated read if you’re into nautical headgear history.

The design process to nail the pattern and construction of our Roadsteader Cap has been quite challenging for our in-house atelier, as attest the many prototypes made. Panels size, seams, stitching, dimensions, leather grade, trims, …, were endlessly tweaked during R&D. Our aim was not to rival with mil-specs hat makers Bancroft Cap Company, or traditional yachting cap specialist Lancaster Hat Co , but we still wanted a hat worthy of being featured in the ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog…
The MF® Roadsteader eventually passed the final exam and survived field-testing.
So there it is.


The MF® Roasteader Cap is designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®.

SPECS:
An original MF® pattern, inspired by an assortment of vintage nautical covers and 1900’s french traditional working-class hats.
FABRIC:
Shell: NOS 2/1 indigo selvedge denim, about 8 Oz. (for reference, similar to the weight of a classic lightweight western denim snap shirt or vintage US Army barrack bag, as opposed to the 12~15 Oz. weight of traditional 3/1 denim 5-pocket jeans.)
Lining: Vintage NOS glazed 100% cotton fabric, silkscreen.
Leather trims: cowhide headband and visor, with genuine kangaroo hide headband lining.

DETAILS:
* Fancy old-school construction.
* Unstructured crown. (no plastic frame)
* Fully lined with NOS black glazed cotton, featuring original MF® silkscreened label.
* Cowhide leather headband.
* Unlined cowhide leather visor with indigo HBT tape piping.
* Genuine kangaroo hide headband facing, with red/white/blue bow.
* Traditional chinstrap was replaced by a riveted strap, featuring concealed denim selvedge ID.
* Made in USA.

SIZING:
The headband size in measured in centimeters. The headband will not stretch altogether, but the kangaroo lining will soften with wear and ‘loosen-up’ the fit a bit.
Size 58 (cm) roughly equates to a 7 ¼ hat size.
Size 60 (cm) roughly equates to a 7 ½ hat size.
Note that the crown of the Roadsteader is unstructured (no plastic frame) so that it will ‘slouch’ naturally with wear. We recommend cocking it to one side, and a bit to the back, for the old-salt vibe.

CARE:
Do not attempt to wash/dry the MF® Roadsteader Cap. Professional spot-cleaning only, if needed. With normal repeat wear, this cap will start to ‘slouch’ and the denim fabric begin to drape naturally. Both the indigo denim twill and leather will acquire a natural patina overtime.
We do not recommend trying to artificially hasten the normal aging process. Just wear and enjoy.

Available Raw/unwashed.
SIZES: 
Size 58 (cm) (approx. 7 ¼)
Size 60 (cm) (approx. 7 ½)

Retail $249.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018

Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat NOS “Congo Gabardine”, Sportsman catalog Spring 2018, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat, NOS “Congo Gabardine”.
mfsc Sportsman catalog, Spring 2018
Made in USA

To ease into this new year in style, let’s introduce a new member of the Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat family, the first Spring 2018 addition to our all-made-in-USA Sportsman catalog.

This classic and versatile unstructured blazer pattern is already available in an array of fine NOS fabrics, an indigo crosshatch twill, two grey cotton-linen twills, and a light indigo “Player” denim.  It now gets an elegant tropical twist with the New Old Stock fabric we recently scored, an 8.85 Oz. blend of 86% cotton and 14% linen, an elegant natural white twill with a subtly-contrasting heather oatmeal warp and white weft. The face of this denim-like fabric displays unbleached slubby flecks of natural fibers, while the reverse shows a whiter cotton yarn.
Our (technically inaccurate) choice of term “Congo Gabardine” is a nod to “Congo Cloth”, a now-defunct rayon fabric typical of vintage tropical attire. Off-white suiting fabrics of the the 1920’s-40’s, such as “Congo Cloth”, or the illustrious Palm Beach Cloth (a cotton/mohair blend fabric milled by the Goodall Worsted Company, and cut into classic “Palm Beach” lightweight suits), certainly convey a bygone tropical elegance often eluding contemporary men’s summer fashion.

The Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat “Congo” features a half-shoulder ‘floating’ lining cut from yet-another fancy NOS fabric, a white sateen twill with a woven green stripe pattern, probably milled in Italy. Our sportcoat’s classic, sixties-style, four-button closure highlights an attractive set of amber brown corozo buttons, adding somewhat of an ‘earthy’ touch while complimenting the tropical theme.
This off-white summer coat can be paired with jeans or khakis for a casual vibe, dressed-up with waistcoat and slacks, styled with neckties or open collars… or rocked full-on Miami Vice.

 

The Continental Sportcoat is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATERN:
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage cotton work coats and other unstructured blazers, notably a 1950’s French postal uniform jacket.

FABRIC:
New Old Stock ivory-colored twill, 8.85 Oz., blend of 86% cotton and 14% linen, off-white heather warp with slubby oatmeal flecks x white weft, milled origin unknown.
Lining: NOS 100% cotton woven stripe sateen twill, white and green, probable European origin.

DETAILS:
* Unstructured silhouette.
* Lightweight and soft, perfect traveling companion.
* High four-button front closure.
* Amber brown corozo wood butons.
* Half shoulder floating lining, 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill.
* Form-fitting back, ventless.
* Three patch pockets, with flaps on hip pockets.
* Concealed ‘passport’ chest pocket.
* Pocket openings reinforced on the inside with lining facing.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching, clean caballo flat-felled seam construction, chainstitch on the inside, no open edges or overlock.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
This explains how we size our garments.

The Continental Sportcoat “Congo” comes raw/unwashed. We recommend our usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. The tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. The subtle variation of shrinkage between body fabric/lining fabric/cotton thread will result in puckering and roping, slightly altering the fit and drape.

I personally opted for a Size 38 in the Continental sportcoat “Congo”, consistant with all of its other iterations in various fabrics.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
Full wash cycle and heat dryer are not recommended.

 

CARE:
Hand wash or machine wash unbuttoned on delicate, cold water with minimal environmentally friendly detergent. Do not use bleach. Line dry.
NOTE: Full washing cycle and heat dryer might result in excessive shrinkage and/or damage, to be experimented at owner’s risk.

Available Raw/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Retail $329.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018

Fresh batch of MF® “Boro Shorties”, neckwear up-cycled from antique Japanese indigo textiles.

Meet the lovely Beverly, our ship’s figurehead.

Bruce likes Beverly.

Beverly likes Bruce

Mister Freedom® “BORO SHORTIES”, antique Japanese textiles.
Up-cycled in USA.

We put together another fresh batch of these shorties for this joyous holiday season!
Still made from antique textiles loomed in Japan, some over 100 years ago, these ties are the shorter version of our Indigo Boro Ties, originally introduced in 2011.
These narrow shuttle loom fabrics are of assorted patterns, textures and colors, all one side selvedge and the other side frayed. Their vintage ranges from turn of the century to the 1960′s. A mixture of home spun, cotton, hemp, natural indigo, katazome prints, kasuri weave, plaids, solids… each scarf is pretty much one of a kind.
Although the MF® Boro Shorties all vary from one another, with specific fade/condition/size/repairs/holes/yellowing due to age, we loosely classified them by textile family groups (there are obvious cross-references):
* Boro Shorties Aizume: mostly solid indigoes.
* Boro Shorties Kasuri: fiber-dyed woven patterns.
* Boro Shorties Katazome: resist-paste dyeing.
* Boro Shorties Nihon: Miscellaneous Japanese patterns. 
* Boro Shorties Stripes: striped patterns.
* Boro Shorties Checks: Check/plaid patterns.

Wrapped once around the neck with a simple single knot, they’ll work with different outfits, dressed up or down, worn out or tucked inside the shirt, ascot-style, bolo tie-style or á-la J. Depp. We do insist on the ‘rough and rugged’ nature of the kerchiefs, this is not Brooks Bros neckwear. Think “Salaire de la Peur” rather than “The Great Gatsby“.
Our Shorties come with a Mister Freedom® original vintage metal slider, bench-made in our LA atelier. Sliders are all one-of-a-kind, with different shapes and sizes, up-cycled from antique silverware.

Refer to original release blog post or previous blog update for additional info. This December 2017 updated inventory will soon be available on the Mister Freedom® webstore. More one-of-a-kind assorted specimen are available in-store only.

The Mister Freedom® “Boro Shorties” are up-cycled in USA, and made from antique textiles loomed in Japan.

Retail: $129.95 (including MF® vintage slider, not pictured)

CARE:
Hand washable, cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
The condition of some of these fabrics are beyond the wabi-sabi of a little imperfection, and feature fraying, occasional holes, repairs, fragile spots, etc…As the fabric continues to age with wear, your own hand-made repairs will add character.

These vintage Mister Freedom® “Boro Shorties” are available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and from www.misterfreedom.com.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

As seen on TV!!! Mister Freedom® 20% OFF SALE!!! Get the looks!!!

Get the looks!!!

For a limited time only, these extraordinary Mister Freedom® looks, and more, are just 80% of a kidney away!
Look and feel extra fabulous with our special 20% OFF SALE!

🎩
👴🏼
👔👉🏼🥔
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Select items only, sale excludes leather goods (footwear & jackets), T’s, and current FW2017 collections (Surplus/Gypsy Blues/Sportsman).
Sale starts Friday Nov. 24, 2017 and ends Monday Nov. 27, 2017 (midnight Pacific Time).
Not all items pictured are available nor on sale.

Visit www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support!

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

Mess of Blues: Mister Freedom® mfsc Utility Jacket, Garrison Shirts, CPO Shirt 189AC (indigo evo)

Utility Jacket, 10 Oz selvedge denim (Saigon Cowboy SS2015)

Garrison Shirt, midnight twill (Saigon Cowboy FW2015)

Garrison Shirt, indigo Flannelette (mfsc 10th Anniversary FW2016)

CPO Shirt 189ac, indigo canvas (mfsc 10th Anniversary FW2016)

Mister Freedom® Mess of Blues.

Because we don’t offer factory-distressed garments, for environmental reasons, ethical concerns and plain common sense, we often get asked “How soon can I expect a worn-in patina?”…
There is no easy answer besides “Just wear and find out”. Frequency of wear, type of activities, fit, … all play a major role in how denim garments evolve and fade, a role often more decisive than the specific fabric itself. Our denim twills and indigo canvases will fade overtime. Just enjoy the journey and don’t watch the water boil.

We have never been about fast fashion, and the Mister Freedom® denim catalog is not about instant gratification. But we believe there is an instant reward in knowing you are investing in ethically-made garments.

Post-laundry photos above are featuring the following MF® garments:
* Utility Jacket, 10 Oz. selvedge denim (Saigon Cowboy mfsc collection SS2015)
* Garrison Shirt, indigo midnight twill (Saigon Cowboy mfsc collection FW2015)
* Garrison Shirt, indigo Flannelette (10th Anniversary mfsc collection FW2016)
* CPO Shirt 189ac, indigo canvas (10th Anniversary mfsc collection FW2016)

(All items worn intermittently since their release date, regular laundry. First wash for the Utility Jacket, following occasional wear.)

Check availability from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and from fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017