The familiar silhouette of the Waterfront Coat is another homage to the early pattern of the classic USN P-Jacket, a.k.a. peacoat.
Sometime in Spring 2008, we released a denim version of that iconic manly garment, part ofthe “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” concept, our first full-fledge collection in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. If a 10-button peacoat made from selvedge denim didn’t necessarily sound like a good idea back then either, it kinda caught on. Some of our jackets even made it to unlikely retail doors, finding their way to Sir Paul Smith’s store shelves in swinging London, or on J.Crew’s catalog, eventually ending-up on sale partly because, you know, raw denim in 2008 was not exactly the most convincing selling point in menswear…
In case you missed it and enjoy a bit of Costume History at times, a previous blog post, concocted while introducing the MF® indigo twill Caban Peacoat, quickly taps into the history of peacoats, a garment adopted by Navies around the World for over a Century.
For Fall 2016, our design approach was to ‘demilitarize’ the famed War Department-issued blue jacket, twisting a USN regulation uniform into a civvy garment, morphing the peacoat into a mackinaw coat.
The shell fabric we chose is an old mfsc favorite, a blend of linen and cotton woven in a heavily-textured herringbone twill pattern, milled for us in Japan. Inspired by the fabric of late 1800’s/early 1900’s Sapeurs Pompiers (french firemen) work uniforms (bourgerons), we originally issued a handsome ‘gunpowder black’ version of it, as featured on the Faro sack coat, waistcoat, and britches of our 2012 Men of the Frontier Collection.
Recognizing at the time how attractive this HBT fabric looked in its un-dyed, un-bleached state, our design department kept it on the back burner, as a contender for a future project. So here it is, at last, in all its natural beauty!
For the lining, we went with an American vintage classic. Canteen blankets have been a bit overplayed in ‘Heritage Fashion’ in recent years, cut and sewn into all kinds of improbable garments and accessories, so we opted to keep it fully concealed on the inside.
Troy Blankets come in several colorways, our 2010 “N-1H Tr0y” featured one of them, and we chose a stripe pattern of warm tones that was new to us this time, the flecked brown-dominant version.
Replacing the classic foul anchor black buttons with natural brown corrozo wood buttons contributed to the ‘maritime to workwear’ make-over.
If the resulting jacket looks quite different from previous MF® iterations of the classic USN peacoat, it still fits our eclectic vintage aesthetics, this time Corto Maltese meets Terry Malloy and his docker comrades.
Corto Maltese by Hugo Pratt (1981) Courtesy of Cong SA
Terry Malloy and the waterfont crew (1954) Courtesy of Getty Images
* Corto Maltese watercolor courtesy of Cong SA. Official website here.
* On set of “On The Waterfront” (1954), courtesy of Getty Images.
The “Waterfront Coat” is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
An original MFSC pattern, freely inspired by early 1910’s -1930’s USN and US Coast Guard sailor wool peacoats, and 1930’s-40’s vintage mackinaw-type outdoor coats. FABRIC: Shell: A fancy 80% linen and 20% cotton blend fabric, HBT pattern, selvedge, milled in Japan. Lining: Soft-hand “Troy Blanket” wool blend fabric, 60% re-used wool, 28% cotton, 12% rayon). Brown dominant stripe. Woven in Japan.
NOTE: The combination and specifics of these two fabrics make the Waterfront Coat quite unfit for foul weather and extreme cold temperatures, but quite appropriate for moderately chilly days, and in-between seasons under temperate climates.
* Early USN peacoat pattern. * Canteen-type “Troy Blanket” wool blend stripe lining, brown dominant. * 10-button front closure.
* Brown corrozo wood buttons.
* Four outside pockets, two ‘hand warmer’ slash pockets and two flap closure pockets. All lined with golden brown cotton-wool blend corduroy.
* Inside chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket.
* Leather arrowhead reinforcement on pocket edges.
* Fabric selvedge conspicuously displayed inside pockets and on back vent.
* Removable chin strap (displaying either fabric if left dangling, or concealed if buttoned under the collar.)
* Traditional Zig-Zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching. * Double labeling, original MF® and mfsc woven labels.
* 100% cotton stitching, tonal.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The Waterfront Coat comes raw/unwashed/loomstate.
Although this garment can be worn as-is (raw), for a clean, pressed look, the pattern was adjusted to match a specific silhouette after an initial cold soak/hang dry process. Aside from fabric shrinkage, the HBT linen-cotton material takes on a ‘new life’ after this process. Linen fibers expand, the high-count stitching causes ‘roping’ and subtle twisting, the lining pulls the seams up a bit… and the garment looks about 50 years older, without the use of obnoxious chemical ‘vintage washes’ dear to our industry.
We suggest soaking the garment in cold water for about 3omn, occasional hand agitation, spin dry and hang dry. Please note that unless you live in the Atacama Desert, the Waterfront Coat might take about three days to fully dry. We do not recommend using a heat dryer. We do not recommend boiling this garment either, as the leather trims and lining will probably get ruined.
Please refer to the sizing chart to see if this garment’s proportions work for you. We suggest sizing down on the Waterfront Coat. I usually wear a Medium (38) in mfsc jackets, but opted for a Small (36). After the initial soak/hang dry procedure, I still had enough room to layer a mid-weight shirt and a close-fitting Cowboy denim jacket.
Do take in consideration that the Troy Blanket lining adds a bit of ‘puffiness’ compared to a thin cotton twill lining.
CARE: After the initial cold soak, we recommend taking the Waterfront Coat to your local eco-friendly dry cleaner for cleaning. Do not use a home washing machine to launder, as the coat is quite heavy and stiff when wet. Spot cleaning can be performed by using a damp cloth and common sense.
44 XX-Large Retail $799.95
As we did with our 2008 original issue, we are mixing two types of cotton military chino twills, produced by our friends at Buzz Rickson’s, US Army, US Army Air Force, US Air Force, and US Navy vintage mil-specs replica experts. Both twills feature the same 8.2 Oz. weight, but contrast noticeably in color. Our original design approach in mixing them was to emanate wartime production crunch, when two different dye lots were at times cut and sewn into one production run. Vintage clothing aficionados will be familiar with such specimen, quite rare today. Our ‘Naval Chinos’ also stand out from the contrasting navy blue stitching. With repeat wash/wear, these color contrasts will gradually fade into an attractive, unique and subtlety-nuanced blend.
One might consider our tricked-out colorful chinos ‘too weird’ to wear, but, if you’re reading this, chances are you are already dressed weird, according to the guy sitting next to you on the plane.
The MF® “Type MFSC No.266ac” Naval Chinos, Khaki Chino Twill issue, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC: Original mix of two dye-lot shades of period mil-specs khaki chino twills, 100% cotton, 8.2 Oz., milled in Japan for Buzz Rickson’s. The initial fabric sheen is due to the specific milling and finishing process, and will rapidly subside with normal wash/wear cycles. Pocket bags and waist band are made from 100% cotton woven stripe ticking, milled in Japan.
SPECS: * Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers.
* Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Button fly. * Waist closure and fly: brown corrozo wood buttons.
* Front slash pockets and back welt pockets featuring arcuate decorative stitching.
* Watch pocket.
* Double MF® woven labeling on inside waist band.
* Concealed cloth label for custom markings on lower leg, French Navy style.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Navy blue contrast 100% cotton stitching.
* Made in Japan, designed in USA, worn around the World.
SIZING/FIT: The Type MFSC 266ac Naval Chinos in khaki twill come raw/unwashed/loomstate, and the fabric is pretty much sanforized. We recommend an initial 30-40mn cold soak with occasional hand agitation, then spin dry cycle. Hang dry.
The tagged size roughly corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. I wear a comfortable Waist 32 in these chinos. No need to size up or down from your actual measured waist size. Please note that, due to the use of 100% cotton stitching and 100% cotton pocketing, slight shrinkage, seam roping and torquing might be obtained with the use of hot water and normal washing machine wash cycle. The true intended fit and pattern of these trousers has been adjusted according to a cold water rinse and low-heat tumble dry process.
Our khaki Naval Chinos feature a vintage silhouette, mid rise, with somewhat of a classic leg, neither slim nor baggy. Refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements.
CARE: These trousers should be low maintenance. We recommend a normal wash cycle with cold or warm water and eco-friendly detergent. Turning the trousers inside out will help avoid marbling. Line dry.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.
Mister Freedom® Type N-1H mfsc Deck Jacket, black jungle cloth edition Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection
We are dropping another heavy hitter this season, a foul weather contender in the Fall 2016 Anniversary Collection celebrating ten years of fun collaborations with our friends at Sugar Cane Co and Buzz Rickson’s (Toyo Enterprises).
This jacket will be our fifth iteration of the iconic military naval “Deck Jacket”, now-familiar to heritage fashion circles. Check out the MF® chronological timeline, summarized while introducing the indigo version of our “Blouson De Quart” (a reference to the French Marine Nationale deck jacket).
This N-1H Anniversary issue is a nod to our original model, released in 2008 during the early nautical adventures of the “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” collection. Our first N-1H (the added H was for hook), issued in navy blue jungle cloth and wool blanket-lined, was a hybrid of several Government-issued foul weather jackets. Its design mixed periods and specs of vintage 1940’s and 50’s US Navy deck jackets, sought-after collectibles today.
The Fall 2016 edition of the Type N-1H Deck Jacket’s specs are similar to those of its 2008 predecessor. One stand-out difference is the shell color. We opted for a black 100% cotton grow grain jungle cloth, complimented by an attractive heather dark navy blue wool lining. This soft-hand lining (a non-itchy blend of 90% wool and 10% nylon) is backed by an inner rayon fabric layer, a reference to the crunchy wax-coated organdy layer of early USN deck jackets. Please note that we went for a ‘quieter’ wind-proofing material for this issue, as the crinkly noise of our 2008 model tended to interfere with sound mix on movie sets!
The 2016 N1-H performs pretty much as its predecessors did, i.e. appropriate for moderately-cold weather. We wanted an in-between season garment with this deck jacket, rather than a full-on winter coat such as the recently-released alpaca-lined indigo Blouson De Quart.
According to your tolerance level of cold temperatures, the black N-1H might not be a good choice for prolonged exposure to extreme winter conditions while in the field. There are better options out there if you’re planning to take on the Everest. However, with appropriate layering, you’ll be fine for chilly winter evenings in California and under other mild temperate climates.
On a side note, if I personally plan on leaving my indigo Blouson de Quart as-is and let a natural indigo color patina develop over time, I might wax my black N-1H in the near future, for partial waterproofing and for the rather interesting resulting leathery effect.
Waxed MF® khaki Blouson de Quart, 2014.
The Type N-1H Deck Jacket, black jungle cloth issue, 2016 mfsc Anniversary edition, is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
* Shell: Solid 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, black 100% cotton grosgrain fabric, period mil-specs, milled in Japan. * Body Inner Lining: 100% rayon fabric wind-proofing concealed layer.
* Lining: Soft hand, non-itchy blend of 90% wool and 10% nylon fabric.
DETAILS: * Freely inspired by 1940’s-1950’s vintage US Navy foul weather-type deck jackets issued to enlisted naval personnel. * Double front closure featuring both a 1950’s-type TALON zipper, and a wind flap secured by 1940’s-type clip hooks. * Full lining, soft-hand wool/nylon blend. * ‘Silent’ inner wind-proofing layer, 100% rayon fabric. * 100% wool knit collar and cuffs, navy blue color. * Synch hip adjustment string. * MF® teardrop hand-warmer pockets, lined with golden brown cotton corduroy. * Underarm ventilating eyelets. * Tonal poly-cotton thread stitching. * Limited Ten Year Anniversary Edition. * Double labeling, original MF® and mfsc woven labels. * No outside military markings. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: We had these jackets professionally rinsed. NOT distressed, but gently rinsed and tumble-dried. No shrinkage guessing. Our black edition N-1H is pre-shrunk, and true to size. I wear a comfortable 38 in this coat, with room for a thick shirt or wool sweater underneath.
Like most ready-to-wear garments not made from stretch fabric or cut as a poncho, our N-1H might not satisfy everyone’s body type expectations. In general, the consensus is to go with your usual size in mfsc jackets. We have taken the measurements to the best of our abilities. Refer to our sizing chart and remember that measurements are from the outside of the fabric.
CARE: Please DO NOT attempt to wash this jacket in a home washing machine! You risk ruining both machine and jacket. The N1-H weights quite a bit when wet, the metal hooks will get snagged, the black jungle cloth fabric will get marbling marks etc… IMPORTANT: Treat your zipper as you would a vintage one, rub wax to lubricate at times, and use common sense rather that brute force to zip and unzip, making sure tabs line-up when zipping. Activities and frequency of wear will obviously dictate when cleaning is needed. Please use common sense with spot cleaning, or take the jacket to a professional eco-friendly cleaner. This jacket can also be hand-washed in a tub filled with cold water. Use eco-friendly detergent for delicate colors. Hang to dry.
44 XX-Large Retail $799.95
Mururoa Atoll, Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia, 1980.
Nuclear test on Mururoa, 1971. Courtesy Getty Images, Gallerie Bilderwelt.
Mister Freedom® x Tailor Toyo ‘Mururoa Souvenir Jacket’ Fall 2016 Limited Edition Made in Japan
When one thinks of French Polynesia, what pops to mind is often quite ethereal. Upa Upa moves, paréo attire, whiffs of monoï, slurps of coconut juice, vahiné and turquoise lagoons,selfies in speedos… and an urge to learn how to weave your own tāupo’o, a traditional Tahitian hat entirely made from a branch of pandanus, a native shrub also know as -I’m not making this up- screw pine.
My pandanus, Bora Bora, 2016.
Not to darken that vista with a radioactive plume, but should you ask Tuamotus‘ residents about the Mururoa atoll, you might get exposed to a slightly different perspective. There was trouble in paradise.
Watch this (in french), if so inclined.
This Fall 2016 Mister Freedom® x Tailor Toyo collaboration, our second venture into camouflaging a heavy past in fashionable lightness, is referring to the controversial legacy of 50 years of nuclear testing conducted by the government of France on the remote atoll of Mururoa, from 1966 to 1996.
Our ‘souvenir jacket’ is no replica and was conceived from scratch. Because there’s always two sides to a story, it is also fully reversible.
The limited edition ’Mururoa Souvenir Jacket’ is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and expertly-crafted in Japan by world-famous Tailor Toyo, purveyors of fine historical sukajan-type garments. Tailor Toyo is a branch of Toyo Enterprises, parent company of our long-time partners and friends Sugar Cane Co and Buzz Rickson’s.
SPECS FABRIC: The reversible “Mururoa Souvenir Jacket” can be worn either side out. Side A:
A soft, pleasantly non-itchy, dark navy blue melton wool fabric (90% wool – 10 % Nylon). This is the same wool fabric used by Buzz Rickson’s for their 10-button USN WW2 replica peacoat.
A blend of 57% cotton and 43% rayon black twill. This is the twill used by Buzz Rickson’s for their 10-button USN WW2 replica peacoat lining. This side features original artwork rayon yarn embroidered.
* An all original mfsc pattern inspired by local-made vintage ’souvenir’ garments, cut from recycled Government-issued military uniforms. Our jacket takes cues from vintage USN Dress Blues that could have been customized into a zip-up jacket by a local tailor.
* Fully reversible and comfortably wearable on both sides even with a short-sleeve shirt.
* 1950’s style reversible sukajan double pull “TYE Tokyo” metal zipper.
* Original MF® artwork back embroidery on Side B, rayon yarn stitching.
* US Navy Dress Blues chest pocket and arcuate back yoke.
* Six pockets total.
* Two MF® original design liberty cuffs.
* Side cinch tabs, USN CPO anchor buttons.
* One piece chin strap collar pattern.
* Double labeling, MF® & Tailor Toyo woven labels concealed in left pocket.
* Limited Edition.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The “Mururoa Souvenir Jacket” is true to size. This is a dry-clean only garment, so no shrinkage issue.
I wear a 38, my usual size in mfsc jackets. The jacket fits quite snugly when zipped-up, but with enough room to be worn with a MF® Tricot Marin and a Flannelette Garrison Shirt without impairing on your morning Tai Chi routine.
Please refer to sizing chart for measurements.
CARE: Professional eco-friendly DRY CLEAN only.
Available RAW/unwashed SIZES:
“Blouson de Quart”, indigo jungle cloth issue Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection
Moving along with our Fall 2016 Anniversary Collection, marking ten years of collaborations with our friends at Sugar Cane Co (Toyo Enterprises).
Here is a popular classic pattern we have been playing with for years: the USN Deck Jacket, aka N-1.
Our version is not a period replica, those being abundantly available today from various brands, but rather our twist on several vintage Government-issued foul weather jackets. Freely mix-matching models and types from the US Navy and Marine Nationale (French Navy) of the 1940’s through 1960’s, we released the first iteration in 2008, the original Type N-1H deck jacket of our 2008 “Naval Clothing Tailor” early mfsc adventures. The Type N-1H never existed as a USN-issued garment, but after mixing deck jacket models for our original design, we simply added the “H” of hook to “N-1” for the name.
A Troy blanket-lined version followed for Fall 2010, the Type N-1H “Troy” issue. Vintage Navy deck coats were so popular at the time thatJ.Crew even picked up some of ours to spice-up their menswear catalog.
In 2014, the “Sea Hunt” collection featured yet another twist on the pattern, the Blouson de Quart, in mil-specs khaki jungle cloth. (The original blog post features some old French Navy photos that inspired this version.)
Original MF® mfsc Type N1-H Deck Jacket (2008 issue)
Original MF® mfsc Type N1-H “Troy” Deck Jacket (2010 issue)
Original MF® mfsc Blouson de Quart (2014 issue)
For Fall 2016, we thought of a new deck jacket hybrid model, a modified indigo-dyed N1-H/Blouson de Quart . If we had made use of indigo jungle cloth in the past (N-1Z Deck Pants), we really wanted a darker shade of indigo for this Anniversary event. We made a special request to the textile experts at Sugar Cane Co and, as always, they delivered.
At the prototype stage, we found the color mix of that deep indigo blue and the chocolate brown alpaca so attractive that we went full alpaca lining, body and collar.
Made from high quality (period mil-specs) fabrics, our deck jacket is solid and quite warm, as they were originally intended to be, to keep sailors protected from the cold and damp marine air while on deck duty.
Please note that more recent R&D has concluded that layering is a key requisite to shield from the cold. Modern military-issued field gear typifies this evolution, and bulky garments are now obsolete and have been replaced by lighter hi-tech clothing worn in layers.
The mfsc “Blouson de Quart” in indigo jungle cloth is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
NOTE: For production, both MF® and “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” woven labels are sewn separately, not overlapping. Above photos are of an early show sample.
* Shell: Tight weave 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, 100% cotton grosgrain, period mil-specs, dark indigo blue, milled and indigo-dyed in small batches in Japan.
* Lining: Warm, non-itchy, soft-touch wool pile alpaca full lining, chocolate brown color, vintage mil-specs.
* Freely inspired by 1940’s-1960’s vintage US Navy and French Marine Nationale foul weather-type deck jackets issued to enlisted personnel.
* Double front closure featuring both a 1950’s-type TALON zipper, and a wind flap secured by 1940’s-type clip hooks.
* Full lining, vintage USN-style chocolate brown wool pile alpaca. * Alpaca stand collar, chin strap.
* Concealed chill-protectant wool knit cuffs.
* Synch adjustment string.
* MF® teardrop hand-warmer pockets, lined with golden brown cotton corduroy.
* Tonal poly-cotton thread stitching.
* Limited Ten Year Anniversary Edition.
* No outside military markings.
* Made in Japan.
We had these jackets professionally rinsed. NOT distressed, but gently rinsed and tumble-dried. Our indigo jungle cloth Blouson de Quart is pre-shrunk, and true to size. I wear a comfortable 38 in this coat, with room for a denim jacket or wool sweater underneath. Please note that I am wearing a Fletcher L/S T-shirt, a chambray Patrol Shirt, a CPO Shirt 189ac and a Cowboy Jacket on the fit pic. Toasty.
We have taken the measurements to the best of our abilities. Refer to our sizing chart and remember that measurements are from the outside of the fabric. The lining is about ¼ inch thick, which reduces the inside room by that much.
CARE: Please DO NOT try to wash this jacket in a home washing machine! You risk ruining both machine and jacket. The Blouson de Quart weights a ton when wet, the metal hooks will get snagged, the indigo-dyed fabric will get marbling marks etc…
Activities and frequency of wear will dictate when cleaning is needed. Please use common sense with spot cleaning or take the jacket to a professional eco-friendly cleaner. The jacket can also be hand-washed in a tub filled with cold water. Use eco-friendly detergent for delicate colors. Hang to dry. With normal wear and outside exposure, the indigo-dyed jungle cloth fabric will develop an attractive patina.
44 XX-Large Retail $949.95