Mister Freedom® Liquette Manouche, double calico indigo discharge print, “GYPSY BLUES” mfsc Spring 2017.

 

Mister Freedom® “Liquette Manouche”, double calico indigo discharge print.
GYPSY BLUES mfsc collection Spring 2017.
Made in Japan.

We have previously introduced two specific mens shirt designs during the opening chapter of our GYPSY BLUES collection, both with somewhat of a bohemian vibe: the SS2017 Liquette Manouche and Liquette Tzigane.

The pattern of the Liquette Manouche was inspired by a vintage 1930’s-40’s French pull-over garment from the MF® archives. This shirt features a col requin (shark-fin-shaped open collar, later to be associated with casual 1950’s European sportswear style shirting), a two-button front half placket, shirred back yoke, and classic early EU tailoring arrowhead-shaped side gussets, precursor of the now-common ‘heritage’ workwear design  gimmick.

Liquette is an old French argot (slang) term simply designating a man’s shirt. A Manouche is a person of Western European Romani ancestry. Belgium-born Django Reinhardt, mastermind of the world-renowned musical style Jazz Manouche in the 1930’s, is one of the most illustrious French Manouche.
Etymologically, the term “Gypsy” finds its roots in the word “Egyptian”, as the mysterious nomads were originally believed to have migrated from Egypt. It is commonly accepted today that their journey originated from India, sometime in the 14th century. These West-bound Romani travelers hauled along traditions, lifestyle and costumes. Their India-rooted Bohemian style tends to be associated today with flamboyant garb and vibrant indiennes prints.

Anecdotally, authentic India-designed prints could be considered as precursors of the quintessentially-British Liberty London style, as they were originally available from Arthur Liberty’s first retail venture in London (England), a bazar he had appropriately named ‘East India House’ in 1875, specializing in imported Oriental goods. He went on to opt for local production and designs, with great success.

Back on point to our shirt du jour
The Mister Freedom® Liquette Manouche was originally introduced in two color options, red and blue discharge-printed popeline.

For Fall 2017, we figured we’d chalenge our friends at Toyo Enterprises with a new puzzling favor: a double discharge-printed calico fabric! Inspired by a rare French 1930’s vintage garment, we had been contemplating the idea for some years, and thought it was time to mail an R&D package across the Pacific, attention Toyo’s Textile Lab. We then resumed our daily tasks and assignments, mostly consisting of chasing Pokémon around the office.
We opted for a black, crisp cotton twill as the base fabric, and painstakingly selected two distinctive traditional calico patterns from antique textiles and swatches collected over the years. For production, the two subtlety-contrasting calico patterns are discharge-printed, on both the face and reverse of the fabric (i.e. “bleached-out” with low bleed-through), and then printed with actual indigo ink.
How this technically works is actually still quite puzzling to us savvy experts of the MF® HQ Team of Pikachu Specialists, but t
he resulting double-sided fabric is quite outstanding. We can thank and congratulate our Sugar Cane friends for delivering such a beautiful and original textile.

Please note that, although attractive both inside and out, this garment is not reversible, therefore not optimal for the French shower.

The MF® Liquette Manouche is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
A crisp 10 Oz. 100% cotton twill, double-printed in indigo with two specific calico patterns on face and reverse, using a discharge-print technique.
Milled and printed in Japan exclusively for mfsc.

DETAILS:
* Inspired by 1930’s French shirting and vintage bohemian style.
* Pull-over style, two button placket.
* ‘Col Requin’ style open collar.
* Corozo wood buttons.
* Shirred back yoke and cuffs.
* Early-type arrowhead side gussets.
* Contrasting front/back shirt tail.
* Original mfsc Gypsy Blues woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Liquette Manouche in double calico comes raw/unwashed.
Follow the usual recommended initial method before wearing: cold soak for 30mn, spin dry and line dry.
This shirt is true-to-size and we recommend getting your normal mfsc size. I often wear a Medium in mfsc shirts and i opted for a comfortable Medium in the Liquette Manouche.
Please refer to chart to figure which size works for you. If still confused, email sales@misterfreedom.com

  

CARE:
Machine wash on delicate when needed, cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.

Available raw/unwashed.
Sizes
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
Retail: $359.95

Now available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

Protected: Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane msfc SS2018 collection preview (PRIVATE)

This content is password protected. To view it please enter your password below:

Mister Freedom® MAC Jacket, cotton back sateen OG-107, mfsc “Surplus” FW 2017, made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® MAC Jacket, cotton-back sateen OG-107.
Surplus” catalog mfsc FW 2017
Made in Japan.

Following the recent release of the stellar Apollo ’69 Sukajan, the sultry indigo jungle cloth Jungle Riders and M-17 Parka, and the higge-ly Nixon shirts in red and blue printed corduroy plaid, the anticipated final installment of our Fall 2017 MF® “SURPLUS” line-up is the versatile MAC Jacket.

Design-wise, we simply stripped the US Navy Peacoat early pattern from most of its maritime lineage, save for the two small anchor buttons concealed under the collar to keep the throat latch in place. We basically turned the iconic nautical garment into a lightweight, casual and classic-looking jacket with an outdoor vibe. Those familiar with the MF® catalog will notice that we have already given many skins to the P-jacket through the years. We wanted a totally new garment this time, blending the vibes of seafaring jackets, Mackinaw coats, US Army M1938 jeep crew coats, vintage casual and old-school utilitarian garments.

The shell fabric we opted for is an old favorite, a US military vintage mil-specs cotton-back sateen cloth, shade Olive Green #107. Access to this special fabric is courtesy of our friend Mr. Kameha, expert Quartermaster at Buzz Rickson’s, the illustrious military uniform-related branch of Toyo Enterprises. We have previously featured this fabric, both on the FW 2014 OG 107 Down Vest and an iteration of the Sportsman Chinos.

For the lining, we opted for a soft-hand printed cotton flannel (same vibrant fabric we cut our 2013 Camp Flannel Shirt from), contributing in giving the MAC jacket its outdoorsy 1950’s flair.

The inspiration for combining the olive green sateen with natural-color leather pocket accents (arrow-head pocket stops and piping) came from an old pair of vintage US Army cold-weather mittens featuring a similar OD poplin shell/leather facing combo. Overtime, the leather acquires an attractive patina, complimenting the olive green fabric.
The traditional double pocketing of the lining has been updated for the 21st Century by adjusting the size of the “cigarette pocket” to fit the average smart phone, rather than a pack of Lucky Strike.

The Mac Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Shell: Mil-specs 9 Oz. cloth, 4/1 (four warp up, one weft down) cotton-back sateen, Olive Green #107 shade (grayish-green, Pantone Color approx reference would be 450 U), milled in Japan.
Lining: 100% cotton brushed flannel, discharge-printed with a vintage-inspired plaid pattern. Milled and printed in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Pattern based on the early US Navy 10-button melton wool Pea-Jacket.
* Brown corozo wood buttons.
* Four outside pockets, two ‘hand warmer’ slash pockets and two flap closure pockets. All lined with golden brown cotton-wool blend corduroy.
* Inside chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket (converted into an iPhone6-size pocket).
* Natural-color leather piping and arrowhead reinforcement on pocket edges.
* 1950’s-style plaid print soft-hand 100% cotton flannel body lining.
* Removable chin strap (displaying OD shell or red lining fabric when left dangling, or concealed when buttoned under the collar.)
* Traditional Zig-Zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® Mac Jacket comes raw/unwashed. We recommend an initial cold soak/rinse and line dry. The jacket will shrink to tagged size. This garment is true-to-size. I tend to wear a 38 (Medium) in mfsc jackets, and opted for a slim-fitting 38 in the Mac jacket. The fit is quite snug (wearing a Skivvy T and a Garrison Shirt on the fit pix), so if you are in-between sizes, go for the size up.
Please note that the lining will shrink slightly more than the shell, and will tend to ‘pull’ after the garment is rinsed/dried. This is intentional, and a typical (and quite desirable effect) of vintage clothing.
Refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements, post cold soak/line dry.

CHART

CARE:
We recommend professional dry-cleaning, in your local eco-friendly facility. However, this garment can be hand-washed or laundered on DELICATE, cold water, minimal detergent. Due to the bulkiness and weight of the garment when wet, make sure the capacity of your equipment is adequate before attempting a machine wash at home. Hang dry.

Available raw/unwashed.
Sizes
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
Retail $769.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

Mister Freedom® NIXON Shirt, Printed Corduroy, mfsc “Surplus” FW 2017, made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® NIXON Shirt, printed corduroy.
“Surplus” catalog mfsc FW 2017.
Made in Japan.

This is the fourth addition to our MF® “SURPLUS” Fall 2017 line-up, an on-going concept consisting of timeless classics given a twist à-la MF®, expertly manufactured in Japan by our long-time friends and partners at Toyo Enterprises. The MF® “SURPLUS” collection is the ethically-made-overseas companion of our popular all-made-in-USA “Sportsman” catalog.

For the office anecdote-inclined, we used to refer to this pattern as the ‘Dick Shirt’ during R&D, but eventually settled on ‘Nixon’ for the official release, for obvious reasons.

The pattern of our ‘Nixon’ shirt is largely inspired by an original 1950’s vintage “Roomy Richard” chambray work shirt, a now-defunct American workwear label established in the late 1920’s. The main appeal of that vintage piece was for us the tricky double-layer ‘cigarette’ chest pocket pattern, somewhat reminiscent of the famous Big Yank pocket, familiar to all vintage clothing aficionados. That  pocket was designed to keep the worker’s cigarette pack dry.

Original 1940’s vintage “Roomy Richard” work shirt packaging.

If most of us today know better than to donate towards the cause of tobacco companies by purchasing their wares, the practical little pocket can still be used as double storage for, say, both an iPhone and a public transportation ticket/smart card.
Beside this fancy characteristic, our Nixon shirt features a chin-strap, triple stitch construction and side gussets, all classic attributes of old-school vintage work shirts.

The fabric we opted for is a 16 wale all-cotton corduroy, discharge-printed with a traditional plaid pattern typical of 1940’s-1950’s vintage outdoor gear, mimicking the appearance of woven checks. Because of the limited bleed-through printing, the reverse of the fabric displays the solid color of the base fabric, not unlike our Sportsman printed Camp Flannel Shirt from 2013. This printed corduroy was exclusively milled for mfsc in Japan, and is released for Fall 2017 in two color options, red plaid and blue plaid.

The Nixon Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
A 16 wale all-cotton corduroy, discharge-printed with a traditional plaid pattern. Milled and printed in Japan.
Two color options, blue and red.

DETAILS:
* A pattern inspired by a 1950’s “Roomy Richard” chambray, and other vintage work shirts.
* Trim silhouette.
* Fancy double-layer left chest pocket, known as “cigarette pocket”.
* Corozo wood buttons.
* Chin strap, featuring vintage-style mfsc-embossed metal buttons.
* Triple stitch construction.
* Side gussets.
* Tonal stitching.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® printed corduroy Nixon Shirt comes raw/unwashed. We recommend an initial cold soak/rinse and line dry. The shirt will shrink to tagged size. This garment is true-to-size. I wear a Medium, my usual size in mfsc shirting. The fit is quite trim, with a tapered waist for a slim silhouette.
Refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements, post cold soak/line dry.

CARE:
Launder when needed. Machine-wash on delicate cycle, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent, line dry.

Available raw (un-washed)
Sizes
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Retail: $329.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

Special Edition Mister Freedom® “Statesman” Jacket, made in USA for MR PORTER, as seen in “Kingsman: The Golden Circle”!

Poppy Delevingne and Pedro Pascal star in Twentieth Century Fox’s “Kingsman: The Golden Circle.”

 

Mister Freedom® “Statesman” Jacket.
Special Edition “Kingsman: The Golden Circle” for MR PORTER.
Made in USA.

We were honored to be considered for outfitting one of the characters of Matthew Vaughn’s latest action movie, “Kingman: The Golden Circle”.
We collaborated with Oscar-nominated costume designer Ariane Phillips, a longtime friend of the store, and luxury menswear provider MR PORTER in adapting one of our staple piece, the Mister Freedom® Campus Jacket.

Our Campus’ 30’s-style club collar was updated to a traditional open collar. Like our original model, the jacket was left unlined, still featuring brown corduroy facing accents. We sourced-out a black cowhide full grain leather with a nice grainy texture and matte finish, for a casual ‘vintage’ vibe straight off-the-rack, without artificial factory distressing. This handsome 2-3 Oz. black leather is heavier, looks ‘tougher’ and more rugged than the elegant black lambskin of our Black Lamb Campus.

This original jacket is worn by Statesman “Agent Whiskey”, a character played by Pedro Pascal, looking rather 70’s Burt Reynolds for the occasion. After the filming wrapped, a very limited run was manufactured, to be exclusively retailed by Mr Porter following the premiere. Luckily, we were able to secure a small stash of these “Statesman” jackets for our Los Angeles HQ!

The limited edition Mister Freedom® “Statesman” jacket is designed and manufactured in California, USA, in collaboration with MR PORTER, for the Kingsman franchise.
To see it in action, watch “Kingsman: The Golden Circle“!

Photo of Pedro Pascal in “Kingsman: The Golden Circle” via this site, courtesy of Twentieth Century Fox ©2017.

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original pattern inspired by classic vintage sportswear leather jackets.
LEATHER: Black cowhide full grain leather, grainy texture with a matte finish, about 2-3 Oz.
Please note that each panel of the jacket may display slight variations in grain and texture, a normal feature of full grain leather.
DETAILS:
* Slim silhouette.
* Fully unlined, clean inside seams.
* One piece back.
* Brown cotton corduroy collar and wrist cuff facing accents.
* Slash pockets with arrowhead-shaped edges.
* Side gussets with adjustable side straps (NOS metal slide buckles).
* Keyhole button holes.
* Dark brown ‘Cat Eyes’ corrozo wood buttons (aka ivory nut), backed by genuine antique 1920’s bone buttons.
* Underarm venting eyelets.
* Double branding, “Kingsman” x “MF® Sportsman” labels on the inside.
* Sturdy poly-cotton thread tonal stitching.
* Made in California, USA.

CARE/SIZING:
This leather jacket does not require any type of pre-treatment and is ready to wear as-is. Do not wash.
After a few years of normal wear, professional care or conditioning might be considered and should be left to a leather specialist.
The cut of the “Statesman” jacket is identical to that of our Campus Jacket introduced in 2013. It is true-to-size but quite slim-fitting, depending of course on your own built. I wear a fitted 38, my usual size in MF® jackets, with a simple Tshirt or light shirt underneath.
DISCLAIMER: Please note that because the jacket is unlined, some color transfer of the black leather might occur on light colored garments.
Please refer to sizing chart for approx. measurements.

Sizes available:
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (XLarge)
44 (XXLarge)
Retail $1,195.00

Available from MR PORTER, from www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2017