Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane msfc FW2018 collection preview

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc FW2018 collection PREVIEW.

Dear Friends,

There it is.
Our Fall Winter 2018 collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Each item’s story, design background, fabric specs and ethical manufacturing journey will be documented on this blog as released.
All garments manufactured either in USA (MF® “Sportsman” mfsc catalog) or Japan (MF® “Surplus” mfsc catalog).
Drop dates will start sometime during August 2018.
The entire collection will be available from the MF® HQ (our Los Angeles brick & mortar store), on www.misterfreedom.com, and some select pieces from fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support.

✌🏼👴🏼⚽💨
Christophe Loiron

Mister Freedom®
©2018

Mister Freedom® modified “Shipyard Chinos” shorts, made in USA.

US Coast Guards in a conversation with German POWs, Normandy France, 1944 (photo © U.S. National Archives)

Mister Freedom® modified “Shipyard Chinos” shorts.
Made in USA.

In an effort to make new with the old, a rather sustainable approach to consumerism, here is a Spring 2018 twist on our previously-released “Shipyard Chinos”.
Originally issued as part of our “American Sportswear NOS” Fall 2011 capsule collection, the harbinger of our “The Sportsman“on-going catalog, these utility pants have been customized into summer-weight bermudas with a handy side pocket.
The original pattern was inspired by vintage work pants and naval dungarees and features a wrap-leg construction, patch pockets and adjustable cinch-back. Along with the recently-made available Boonie Utes, these modified Shipyard Chinos shorts are now beefing-up our funky fresh, colorful, eclectic and sexy MF® Shorts section. Everything for the stylish gentleman with an urge to pay tribute to Tom Selleck.

The MF® Shipyard Chinos shorts are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and made in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRICS: 100% cotton tightly woven chino twill, milled in Japan. Dry hand, light ounce.
Three colors available, khaki, brown, navy. 

SPECS:
* An original Mister Freedom® pattern inspired by vintage work pants and naval dungarees.
* Modified into above-the-knee bermudas.
* Added side pocket.
* Front patch pockets secured in the waist band, copper rivet reinforced.
* Wrap leg construction (no side seam).
* Buckle-back adjustable strap with vintage French NOS metal buckle.
* Crotch rivet.
* Rear cotton cloth patch for custom stenciling, concealed behind back strap.
* Metal donut crest buttons for waist and fly, painted black.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Printed MF® mfsc label.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Shipyard Chinos shorts come raw/unwashed, unless specified.
They will shrink to tagged size after a cold rinse and line dry. Comfortable fit. I opted for a Size 30. Could go to 32 for a more roomy silhouette and cinch the waist. The silhouette is according to personal preferences, but i don’t recommend wearing those chinos tight. If you are a true waist 31, you should fit in a waist 30 in the shipyard chinos.
This modified shorts version of the Shipyard Chinos is cut above the knee. Results may vary according to your ratio waist/height and silhouette.

Refer to chart for measurements.
CHART

Available Raw/unwashed (unless otherwise specified on the MF® webstore)
Sizes Limited availability
28
30
32
34
36
38
Retail $229.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018

Mister Freedom® Casquette “La DEFFE”, New Old Stock fabric, made in USA. (June 2018 inventory UPDATE)

“La bande du Grand Albert”, Paris, by Brassaï, early 1930’s.

Mister Freedom® Casquette “La Deffe”, NOS fabrics.
Made in USA.

Here is an inventory update of our popular MF® Casquette “La Deffe”, an original headwear pattern we initially released in 2011 and have been consistently restocking since. The first batch was released during our “Les Apaches” collection.
Inspired by French 1920’s~40’s mens casquettes, these single-panel caps are cut from vintage New Old Stock fabrics, and constructed in the spirit of their ancestors.
The term ”deffe” is an obsolete French slang word, only familiar to an older generation today. Etymologically, a hat manufacturer called DESFOUX (located near Pont-Neuf, Paris, and established in 1878) made silk caps favored by butchers, pimps and Parisian apaches. A ”Desfoux” or “deffe” ended designating a cap in colorful gangster argot.

The MF® Casquette “La Deffe” is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®.

SPECS:
* An original MF® pattern inspired by French single-panel 1920’s~40’s casquettes.
* Cut from assorted New Old Stock vintage fabrics, available in very limited quantity.
* Genuine kangaroo leather sweatband, veg-tan, will not stretch or rot.
* Vintage NOS black twill hat lining, featuring silkscreened original Mister Freedom® artwork.
* Decorative crown strap, secured by 1900’s french NOS glass buttons
* Snap-up brim (vintage United Carr snap).
* Made in our fancy 7161 Beverly atelier.

SIZING:
The MF® Casquettes “La Deffe” are ready-to-wear and do not require any initial treatment.
We measure the sweatband in centimeters. If unsure, measure your head circumference with a metric cloth measuring tape to determine your hat size. Kangaroo leather will technically not stretch or shrink, but the hat crown might loosen slightly with normal wear.

CARE:
Professional cleaning only. Do not machine-wash.

Available raw/unwashed.
Limited sizes available per fabric option. See updated inventory here.
57cm
 (~ US 7 1/8)
58cm 
(~ US 7 1/4)
59cm
 (~ US 7 3/8)
60cm
 (~ US 7 1/2)
61cm 
(~ US 7 5/8)
62cm 
(~ US 7 3/4)
Retail $199.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.comour Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

Mister Freedom® “SCUTTLER CAP”, New Old Stock fabric, made in USA. (June 2018 inventory UPDATE)

Jack Sparrow in Japan (2016)

 

Mister Freedom® SCUTTLER CAP, NOS fabrics.
Made in USA.

If you are in a Peaky Blinders or Jack Sparrow kinda mood, here are a few additions to our original “Scuttler Cap” pattern initially introduced in 2013, our interpretation of the popular vintage newsboy eight-panel hat.

While Paris of the Belle Époque had its ‘Apaches’, Manchester enjoyed the ‘Scuttlers’, all victims, misfits and drop-outs left by the wayside of the Second Industrial Revolution…
In “Teenage, Creation of Youth 1875-1945”, British writer Jon Savage describes their attire this way, quoting a period account from the head missionary of a Manchester orphanage in 1890:

“…the “professional scuttler” wore “a puncher’s cap”, “narrow-go-wides” trousers, narrow-toed brass-tipped clogs, and heavy customized belts with designs, picked out in metal pins, that included serpents, stars, and pierced hearts. The “boy expert” Charles Russell observed that the Mancunian variant wore “a loose white scarf”, with hair “well plastered down upon his forehead”, “a peaked cap rather over one eye”, and trousers “cut – like a sailor’s – with ‘bell bottoms’”

The fabrics of our “Scuttler Caps” are New Old Stock, 1940’s to 1970’s.
Please note that the sizing paper label stitched to the back of the cap, a reference to vintage packaging, is easily removable and not part of permanent branding.

The MF® Scuttler Cap is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®.

SPECS:
* An original MF® pattern inspired by vintage 1930’s newsboy eight-panel caps.
* Genuine kangaroo leather sweatband.
* NOS cotton biased tape seam piecing.
* All made in our fancy 7161 Beverly atelier.

SIZING:
To avoid confusion, we recommend wearing the Scuttler Cap as-is, without rinsing it.
We measure the sweatband in centimeters. If unsure, measure your head with a metric cloth tape measure to determine your hat size. Kangaroo leather will not stretch or shrink but the hat crown might loosen slightly with normal wear.

CARE:
Professional cleaning only. Do not machine-wash.

Available raw/unwashed.
Limited sizes available per fabric option. See updated inventory here.
57cm
(~ US 7 1/8)
58cm
(~ US 7 1/4)
59cm
(~ US 7 3/8)
60cm
(~ US 7 1/2)
61cm
(~ US 7 5/8)
62cm
(~ US 7 3/4)
Retail $199.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.comour Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

 

Mister Freedom® Continental Bermudas, NOS cotton-linen slate grey denim & NOS stripe twill, SS2018 Sportsman catalog, made in USA.

 

Continental Bermudas, NOS cotton-linen slate grey denim & NOS stripe twill.
mfsc SS2018 Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

We introduced the Mister Freedom® “Continental” series in early 2016, an unpretentious all-made-in-USA casual suiting concept consisting of three new patterns (Continental Trousers, Continental Vest, Continental Sportcoat) seasonally released in a combination of vintage New Old Stock fabrics.

Mister Freedom® “Continental” family, made in USA.

For Spring 2018, we are adding a new member to our Continental family… the Continental Bermudas.
Derived from the pattern of our Continental Trousers inspired by classic late 50’s-mid 60’s casual slacks, these tailored short trousers are a departure from, no offense, dad’s favorite 1990’s cargo shorts, the recreational fisherman’s best friend. We aimed for a more elegant silhouette on this project.
Anchored in a British military style tradition allegedly dating back to WW1, original ‘bermuda shorts’ called for a length of approximately one inch above the knee, which we stuck with. Whether you go for the mandatory knee-length socks, blazer and tie dear to the respectable Bermudian keen on proper insular business attire, is up to you. For a casual stroll around town in old-school Ivy League style, we think you’ll do just fine with a simple Stanley or Berkeley shirt, topped with an unstructured Continental Sportcoat, and shod in a pair of vintage penny loafers or wingtips. Better yet, do your own thing.

The above-the-knee target length will obviously depend on where one considers the waist line to be. Our Continental Bermudas feature a mid-to-high rise, and, call us old-fashioned, we tend to think of the waist as a natural line falling right above the hips. The simple single needle hem can easily be tailored to one’s preferred length however, and if we don’t necessarily recommend the Daisy Dukes look, a shorter length might convey a more sporty and contemporary vibe, for those inclined. Just don’t cut past the pocket bags. Style inspiration abound on the interwebs.
The fabrics we opted for the introduction of our Continental Bermudas are two New Old Stock textiles, a fancy slate grey crosshatch denim twill (a blend of 60% cotton and 40% linen), and a nautical all-cotton selvedge stripe twill.

The Continental Bermudas are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

Photo credits:
To the best of our knowledge, vintage illustration courtesy of Minnesota Historical SocietyGetty Images, and Philadelphia Tribune.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by vintage late 1950’s and early 1960’s casual slacks with a classic, slim silhouette. Mid-to-high rise.

FABRIC OPTIONS:
a) Slate Grey twill: New Old Stock, 8 Oz. denim twill, blend of 60% cotton and 40% linen, probable a-Italian a-origin.
b) Indigo Stripe twill: New Old Stock, woven stripe lightweight twill, selvedge, 100% cotton, USA origin.

Lining/pocketing: NOS 2×1 blue denim.

DETAILS:
* Elegant late 1950′s early 1960’s type silhouette and fit, above the knee length.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckle.
* Amber brown corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Rear welt pockets, watch pocket.
* Trousers-style belt loops.
* Crotch gusset pattern.
* Flat-felled side seam “caballo” construction.
* NOS blue denim pocket bags, waist band and fly facing.
* Tonal 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstich MF® signature accents.
* Original “SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed when wearing a belt.
* Made in USA.

SIZING:
The MF® Continental Bermudas come raw/unwashed.
Both fabric options will shrink to approximately the same size after a 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
These are “vanity size”, with somewhat of a generous waist that can be cinched with the rear adjustable strap. I tend to fluctuate between W30 and W32 in mfsc trousers, according to the model, and opted for a comfortable W32 in the Continental Bermudas, in both fabrics.

Refer to sizing chart for cold soak/spin dry/line dry measurements.

CARE:
Machine wash on delicate, pants inside-out, cold water with minimal environmentally-friendly detergent and line dry.
Stripe Twill: Some faint color transfer (from the indigo blue to the white) may be noticeable after wash, but will subside with further washing. This should not be considered as a flaw, just an inherent part of garments involving indigo-dyed yarns.

NOTE: Full washing cycle in hot water and machine dry might result in maximum shrinkage and color loss. Not recommended.

Available Raw/unwashed
Sizes (W stands for Waist. I know, but we’ve been asked)
28
30
32
34
36
38
Retail $229.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018