This MF® tribute to late 50’s early 60’s popular ‘stovepipe’ type jeans gets another make-over for Fall 2017, this time with a special “coated denim”. Not an unpleasant waxy black rubber coating, but rather an opaque coat of matte black water-based ink, the type used for soft-hand fabric printing. If the black ink completely covers the indigo blue warp of the denim, the usual light-colored grayish weft (with somewhat of a greenish sheen) shows on the reverse of the fabric. The slub of the yarns is visible on the weft threads, giving this specific denim its crosshatch quality.
If this garment initially looks flat black, each pair will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo, black and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Undertones of indigo will rapidly appear with normal wear abrasion. See the denim wash test photos below, also featuring a small section rubbed with sand paper.
The mfsc Speedways are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: New Old Stock crosshatch coated denim, soft-hand matte black finish on indigo warp, 100% cotton, about 12-13 Oz. Origin unknown (maybe Italy). DETAILS: * Inspired by late 50’s early 60’s ’stovepipe’ jeans and vintage casual trousers. * Tab waist band à la McQueen, concealed closure snaps. * No belt loops. * Side snap cinch tabs (adjusting waist by about 1½” when both tabs are fully cinched) * New Old Stock pocket bags: sturdy 100% cotton charcoal grey covert chambray. * Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”. * Discreet “M” stitched rear pockets. * Flat-felled seam ‘caballo’ construction, with Sportsman green color chainstitch accent. * Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The Speedways black-coated denim come raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual initial routine: cold soak for about 30-40mn, spin dry, hang dry. These are true to size, with the industry-standard generous waist (meaning a W32 measures a bit over 32 inches, quite psychologically gratifying for the consumer concerned about his waistline.)
I am usually between a w30 and W32 in mfsc bottoms, and I’m in luck since the Speedways come in W31. I did not yet fully wash/heat dry my pair, and wear the W31 with one side of the snap tabs cinched.
The bottom hem is done by single needle machine, not chainstitch.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw and cold-soaked/hang dry measurements.
CARE: Treat the MF® Speedways black-coated denim as you would fancy indigo denim jeans. Wash separately to avoid color transfer. Turn garment inside-out to minimize unsightly marbling of the fabric. Cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
If these Speedways denim jeans initially look flat black, each pair will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo, black, and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles.
Mister Freedom® Topsiders, NOS OD HBT (New Old Stock Olive Drab Herringbone Twill) Sportsman mfsc Fall 2017 Made in USA
NOS OD HBT utes?
You no dig dat GI Jive, Jack? Alreeeet.
“P-F-C to the C-P-L to the S-G-T to the L-T C-P the O-D the M-P makes ya do K-P…”
The MF® “Topsiders” pattern was first introduced during our Spring 2014 mfsc “Sea Hunt” collection.
The style was adapted from the familiar WW2 US Navy wrap-leg denim dungarees models. Originally released in the illustrious “Okinawa 301”, a Fall version followed in a special “Marine Nationale” denim twill, both made in Japan at the time.
For Fall 2017, we decided to add the popular Topsiders pattern to our Sportsman catalog, and release a made-in-USA edition cut from vintage New Old Stock fabric, a fine lot of crisp 100% cotton Olive Drab Herringbone Twill. Somewhat similar to the Buzz Rickson’s replica fabric inspired by 1940’s USMC utilities, our NOS textile is in a bit darker shade of green (kinda OG Shade 7 meets OG-107), and features a slightly lighter ounce. Our OD HBT is a bit heavier than the khaki HBT Sportsman Chinos released for Spring 2017, for those familiar with that NOS textile.
High-waisted and full-legged, with a nice drape, our HBT Topsiders are designed with a vintage 1940’s military dungarees silhouette in mind, not yoga leggings.
The MF® Topsiders OD HBT edition are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Note: Production of the MF® Topsiders come without stencil/perso ID.
SPECS: FABRIC: Crispy 100% cotton New Old Stock Olive Drab Herringbone Twill.
DETAILS: * Pattern adapted from an original pair of WW2 US Navy denim dungarees. * High-waisted, roomy straight leg, vintage 1940’s military utility trousers silhouette. * Wrap-leg construction (no side seams). * Button fly, metal tack buttons, oxidized black donut type. * Vintage USMC-style oxidized black Wreath & Star donut type waist button. * Two functioning rounded-bottom front patch pockets, two deep rounded-bottom rear back pockets. * Adjustable back cinch strap. * Skinny belt-loops for 2” wide belts. * Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam. * 100% cotton tonal stitching. * MF® Sportsman green inside chainstitch accent. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® HBT Topsiders come raw/unwashed. A low-maintenance garment, we recommend an initial cold wash, full agitation, heat dryer. Once washed and dried, the HBT fabric will fully reveal its attractive texture. This process will also emphasize the subtle puckering of the seams/stitching, a commun characteristic of vintage workwear. I opted for a size 32, with a generous waist and full silhouette. I adjusted the back strap strap, fully cinching it. I could squeeze in a Waist 30, but, with this model, subjectively preferred the wide leg and comfortable silhouette of the Waist 32.
Please refer to the chart for approximate measurements. (Raw & fully rinsed and dried)
CARE: The MF® Topsiders NOS OD HBT are low-maintenance.
Machine wash when needed, cold/warm water, delicate cycle, eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry or tumble dry.
Available RAW/unwashed. Waist x Length: 28 x 34 30 x 34 32 x 34 34 x 34 36 x 36 38 x 36 RETAIL $289.95
With the Mister Freedom® M-17 Parka, now you too can look really creepy.
Mister Freedom® “M-17 Parka”, indigo-dyed jungle cloth. MF® “SURPLUS” mfsc Fall 2017. Made in Japan.
This is the third addition to our MF® “SURPLUS” Fall 2017 line-up, an on-going concept consisting of timeless classics given a twist à-la MF®, expertly manufactured in Japan by our long-time friends and partners at Toyo Enterprises. Basically, the MF® “SURPLUS” collection is the ethically-made-overseas companion of our popular all-made-in-USA “Sportsman” catalog. After tripping to the moon with the smashing Apollo ’69 Sukajan, after cruising in style down the 101 with the indigo Jungle Riders, here is a number for upcoming foul weather days.
Design-wise, we adapted the pattern of a vintage US Air Force-issued M-47 “Overcoat, Parka Type”, molding it into a practical, unlined civvy garment, blending military, nautical and utilitarian outdoorsy vibes. Having turned the classic Olive Drab 1947 model into a 2017 garment, we simply named it “M-17 Parka”.
The choice of indigo-dyed jungle cloth for the shell became obvious after witnessing how this handsome fabric evolves overtime, with normal wear and exposure to the elements. Before the recently-released Jungle Riders, this same fabric was featured on two MF® oldies, the Mulholland Master and Blouson de Quart of our 2016 tenth Anniversary collection. Promising evo shots should be emerging on the social media in a few winters…
We opted for green contrasting trim accents, with the web belt, stitching, 1940’s-style Mil-Specs crown zipper tape, and olive corrozzo buttons. The hand-warming slash pockets feature beige corduroy pocket bags, a reference to vintage WW2 USN peacoats.
Those into waxing their gear for weatherproofing, or for the rugged aesthetics, can do so with Otter Wax or natural bees wax. Do consider that this would not only be a no-turning-back commitment, but a real endeavor considering the size of the fabric panels to be waxed… I will personally leave my M-17 in its original condition and let the indigo do its thing for a while. Then again I live in Southern California, where rains only briefly interfere with drought alerts…
The “M-17 Parka” is re-designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: A tightly woven 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, 100% cotton grosgrain, period mil-specs, the notorious shell fabric of 1940’s USN deck jackets, dyed to a deep and dark indigo shade. Milled and indigo-dyed in small batches in Japan.
DETAILS: * Inspired by the classic olive drab US Air Force-issued M-47 “Overcoat, Parka Type”. * Unlined body. * Hood lined with fine indigo-dyed cotton popeline. * Heavy-duty 1940’s-style US military spring-loaded “CROWN” zipper replica. * Two large patch pockets with flap closure, and two hand-warming slash pockets featuring beige corduroy bags. * Corrozzo wood buttons. * OD Cotton web belt, removable, featuring an authentic made-in-USA USMC Mil. Specs. powder-coated metal buckle. * Inside OD cotton tape piping, no open/overlocked seams. * Olive green contrast stitching. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The Mister Freedom® M-17 Parka comes raw/unwashed and we recommend an initial 30mn cold soak, spin dry and hang dry. I opted for a comfortable size Medium, my usual size in mfsc jackets, anticipating layering it with other garments comes winter. Note that I could fit into a size Small with a light shirt, slimmer silhouette but no layering possible.
DISCLAIMER: Color crocking (temporarily bleeding onto other lighter-colored textiles) is to be expected and will temporarily ‘stain’ light color garments worn as under layers. Indigo rub-off should wash-off eventually. However, because it is unlined, do not wear a white shirt or light color jacket directly under the M-17 Parka.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/cold soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
CARE When cleaning is required, turn inside out, unzipped and unbuttoned, and hand wash in cold water with mild eco-friendly detergent designed for delicate fabrics. Expect heavy indigo crocking is to be expected, wash separately from all other garment. Due to the bulkiness of this garment, and its weight when soaked, we do not recommend using a home washing machine. This will potentially ruin both the M-17 Parka and your washing machine. Additionally, excessive and unnecessary agitation will leave unattractive marbling marks, even if the garment is turned inside out. Do not use a heat dryer, hang dry instead.
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY. Sizes Small
XX-Large Retail $899.95
The pattern of our classic vest is inspired by 1910’s-1930’s French Gentlemen’ waistcoats. The shawl lapel, fine sateen back, cinch back strap and fancy lining make for a choice addition to the discerning gadjo‘s closet. We took the dandy vibe a notch down by donning our gilet a set of donut-shape metal buttons as front closure, hardware parts usually reserved for vintage utility garments. For this Fall edition, we opted for cotton moleskin, a staple of vintage French workwear fabrics. A small batch was milled in Japan from an antique textile swatch. We chose a rich sienna brown color, with low colorfast properties. Some of the photos feature a once-cold-soaked specimen, next to a fully washed and worn sample, for an idea of fabric evolution.
If black and navy blue are typical colors of old-school French workwear, brown and cream moleskin garments were quite popular with the Gardians of Camargue, the gritty Provençal cowboys dreamed-up by the legendary Old-West-obsessed Folco de Baroncelli in the early 1900’s. In the old days, these famed horsemen of the delta of the Rhone, Southern France, typically wore moleskine boot-cut riding pants, with the characteristic contrast piping running down the leg seam. A matching moleskin vest, flamboyant plaid or printed cotton shirt, low-crown western-style hat, and a pair of Camarguaises (local traditional rough-out leather boots) often completed these work outfits. (For the commun thread between Gardians and our Gypsy Blues story, Camargue’s most iconic commune is Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer, a notorious annual pilgrimage destination for Gypsies coming from the four corners of Europe.)
Familiar to the European vintage clothing aficionado, French waistcoats from the 1920’s-30’s typically feature a stern shell (often black wool serge) and an unusual inner lining (fancy printed fabric probably left-over from a custom shirting project). It is not uncommon to come across such tailor-made vintage specimen with a formal appearance and an unusual inner lining.
Digging through the archives, we found limited NOS yardages of forgotten textile goodness from past mfsc collections, and have used then as linings on all iterations of the Gilet Gadjo. The fancy off-white calico-print cotton sateen twill featured on the moleskin version was originally milled for our 2011 Les Apaches collection, but was never used. Indigo-dyed cotton poplin inner panels complete the lining. A classic amber brown cotton sateen back adds to the elegant vintage vibe.
The Gilet Gadjo is designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE Co.
SPECS: FABRICS: * Front panels: 100% cotton moleskin, 8.5 Oz., sienna brown color with low colorfast properties. Milled in Japan. * Back panel: 100% cotton sateen back, amber brown color. * Inside lining: Fancy 100% cotton off-white sateen twill with vintage-style calico-print, accented with contrast indigo-dyed poplin panels.
DETAILS: * Original mfsc pattern inspired by fancy 1910’s-30’s European tailor-made Gentlemen’ waistcoats. * Elegant and traditional silhouette, to compliment higher-waisted trousers or blue jeans. * Shawl lapel. * Chest darts and early waistcoat gussets and paneling. * Fancy calico-print off-white cotton sateen inner lining. * Sateen back, amber brown color. * Cinch back strap, with vintage-style metal prong buckle, removable for washing. * Three welt pockets. * Utilitarian unmarked ‘donut’ metal brass buttons. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The Gilet Gadjo moleskin comes raw/unwashed. We recommend the usual method, initial cold soak, spin dry and line dry. If the general consensus was to size down on the Spring 2017 run of this pattern, both covert and HBT cotton/linen editions, this moleskin version is rather true to size. I wear a fitted 36 in covert and HBT, and a fitted 38 in moleskin (rinsed/line dry).
Please refer to chart to figure which size works for you. Take your favorite waistcoat, measure it laying flat (as the chart’s b/w photo suggests), and see which size/measurements combo most-closely matches. If confused, email email@example.com.
CARE: We recommend hand washing or machine wash on gentle/delicate cycle. Cold water, eco-friendly detergent, spin dry and line dry. DO NOT launder on “Heavy Wash” setting, as the metal buttons might get snagged and damage the garment. REMOVE metal prong buckle from the back strap before laundering, it is fastened by a button. The sienna brown moleskin fabric intentionally boasts low colorfast properties, and will lose its original sheen after a few wash/wear cycles. It will fade quite rapidly, according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available raw/unwashed. Sizes 36 Small 38 Medium 40 Large 42 X-Large 44 XX-Large Retail: $379.95
Mister Freedom® Veste Ménilmontant , wool-cotton indigo covert herringbone. “GYPSY BLUES” mfsc FW2017 Made in Japan.
Ménilmontant… mais oui Monsieur!
We’re kick-off the Fall chapter of our “GYPSY BLUES” story to the beat of a 1938 Charles Trenet chanson, given a Jazz Hot treatment in 1949 by a quintet led by virtuoso guitarist Django Reinhardt and violinist Stephane Grappelli. Dig it!
Our Veste Ménilmontant (veste is jacket in French, and Ménilmontant is a popular neighborhood of Paris) was inspired by a vintage suit jacket, an old beat-up 1920’s-30’s French coat. That original inspirational piece was absolutely striking, with amazing character, classy curves, elegant lines, and worn-out hobo style. Check it out if you visit the old pile o’ rags.
The fabric we chose for our interpretation is a fancy herringbone weave cotton/wool blend, a covert cloth mixing indigo blue, black and slate grey yarns.
Please note that this is quite a period-looking garment, as the Veste Ménilmontant screams Thirties! In part due to the curvy and wide peak lapels, the jazzy belted back accentuating the natural waist, and the overall silhouette. That elegant single-breasted style was typical of Gentlemen’s garb of the time. The four patch pockets with button flaps complete the vintage continental flair of the garment. We played a bit with the lining fabrics to give our coat an Old World meets New World tailor-made touch, mixing French workwear stripe ticking (body lining) with Wabash twill (arm lining).
Style-wise, if a bit concerned about looking like a 1930’s suave crooner, or an extra on Sous Les Toits de Paris, pairing the Veste Ménilmontant with familiar denim favorites should easily dismiss the Jean Sablon vibe. For Heritage Fashion and workwear aficionados, the jacket can also be toned down with a “Dirty Thirties”treatment, i.e. complimented with Great Depression era-inspired outfits.
For menswear and style inspiration, old photos abound. Check out the daily gems featured on Mr. Matt “Warpath” Strickland’s excellent Rivet-Head blog or rockin’ IG account.
For fancy Jazz Manouche-style guitar picks (those featured on the photos are made from vintage NOS casein), and other Hot Jazz guitar-related goodies, look-up Mr. Thomas Davy.
The Ménilmontant Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: Herringbone weave blend of cotton/wool, a covert cloth mixing indigo blue, black and slate grey yarns. Milled in Japan. Body Lining: 100% cotton indigo woven stripe ticking. Arm Lining: 100% indigo Sugar Cane Co Wabash twill.
DETAILS: * Inspired by 1920’s-1930’s haberdashery and French vintage Gentlemen’s suiting.
* Period silhouette with elegant lines, cinched natural waist and broad chest and shoulders.
* 1930’s type belted-back.
* Single-breasted featuring curvy wide peak lapels.
* Four patch pockets with buttoned flaps.
* Corozzo wood buttons, amber color.
* Fully lined (combination of indigo stripe ticking and indigo Wabash twill).
* Two inside concealed chest pockets.
* MF® mfsc “GYPSY BLUES” woven rayon label.
SIZING/FIT: The Ménilmontant Jacket comes raw/unwashed. If so inclined, get some light puckering and fabric roping with a 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry. This garment runs true to size following this process.
I wear a fitted size 38 (Medium), my usual size in mfsc jackets and coats.
Refer to chart for raw/cold-soaked & line-dry measurements.
CARE: We recommend hand washing (or machine-wash on delicate, if you use a high-end washing machine), cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not boil this garment, nor set washing-machine to normal/heavy agitation.