Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane msfc FW2018 collection preview

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc FW2018 collection PREVIEW.

Dear Friends,

There it is.
Our Fall Winter 2018 collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Each item’s story, design background, fabric specs and ethical manufacturing journey will be documented on this blog as released.
All garments manufactured either in USA (MF® “Sportsman” mfsc catalog) or Japan (MF® “Surplus” mfsc catalog).
Drop dates will start sometime during August 2018.
The entire collection will be available from the MF® HQ (our Los Angeles brick & mortar store), on www.misterfreedom.com, and some select pieces from fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support.

✌🏼👴🏼⚽💨
Christophe Loiron

Mister Freedom®
©2018

Mister Freedom® Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit, NOS black-coated crosshatch denim, FW2018, made in USA.

Photo courtesy  Leigh Wiener ©1960

Mister Freedom® Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat & Trousers)
New Old Stock black-coated crosshatch denim (BCD)
mfsc Sportsman catalog, Fall 2018
Made in USA

Time to get rhythm ‘n get the blues, and kick off our Fall 2018 mfsc collection with this first installment, the dark and handsome “JC” two-piece suit!

All made-in-USA, this original trousers and sportcoat set, latest addition to the Mister Freedom® Continental family, is cut from an old MF® favorite, the final precious yardage of New Old Stock black-coated indigo denim (BCD) from our dusty vault.
Previously featured on the MF® Speedways and its Cowboy Jacket sidekick, this special NOS fabric is not the modern waxy black rubber type coating seen on novelty contemporary jeans, but rather an interesting indigo denim twill printed with a soft-hand opaque coat of matte black water-based ink. If the black ink completely covers the indigo blue warp of the denim, the traditional light-colored grayish weft (with somewhat of a greenish sheen here) shows on the reverse of the fabric. The slub of the yarns is visible on the weft threads, giving this specific denim its crosshatch quality.
If the BCD initially looks flat black due to the pigment coating, it will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo with black and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Undertones of indigo will rapidly appear with normal wear abrasion.

Below photos show a worn/washed pair of BCD Speedways next to the “JC” Continental Trousers in un-worn condition, both cut from the exact same fabric.

The “JC” Two-Piece Suit consists of two of our popular classic patterns, the MF® Continental Sportcoat and Continental Trousers.
The unstructured blazer pattern is already available in an array of fine NOS fabrics, an indigo crosshatch twill, two grey cotton-linen twills, a light indigo “Player” denim, and an elegant tropical “Congo Gabardine” cotton-linen twill.
The Trousers have previously been released in brown Cacao Chambray, indigo Crosshatch Denim Twill, and light indigo “Player” Denim.

Available as individual garments for a mix & match look, the black-coated denim “JC” is of course offered as a Sportcoat/Trousers set, for the Man-in-Black inclined.

The mfsc Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit in Black-Coated Denim (Continental Sportcoat & Trousers) is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock crosshatch pigment-coated denim, soft-hand matte black finish on indigo warp, 100% cotton, 12 Oz. Probable Kurabo (Japan) origin.
Pocketing & half lining/facing:  NOS fancy woven stripe 100% cotton plain weave (ivory white with blue & grey stripes), milled in Europe.

Continental “JC” SPORTCOAT:
* Unstructured silhouette.
* Lightweight and easily folded, perfect traveling companion.
* Sixties-vibe high button front.
* Black corozo wood butons.
* Half shoulder floating lining, 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill.
* Side hip pockets with flaps.
* Pocket openings reinforced on the inside with facing fabric.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching, all clean caballo (chainstitch) flat-felled seam construction, green color “Sportsman” signature chainstitch on the inside. No open edges or overlock.
* Made in USA.

Continental “JC” TROUSERS:
* Elegant late 1950′s early 1960’s type silhouette and fit, straight leg.
* Black corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Flat-felled side seam caballo all around construction.
* Rear welt pockets.
* Trousers-style belt loops.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill pocket bags, waist band .
* NOS indigo twill fly/cinch facing.
* Watch pocket.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstich MF® signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed when wearing a belt.
* Tailor shop-style unfinished overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT
This explains how we size our garments.
The Continental Sportcoat and trousers come raw/unwashed. We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. The tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. The subtle variation of shrinkage between body fabric/lining fabric/cotton thread will result in puckering and roping, slightly altering the fit and drape.
I personally opted for a Size 38 in the Continental sportcoat  and Waist 32 trousers. These are my usual sizes in the Continental series and most mfsc garments.

Trousers sizing: The Continental Trousers are true to size. If you are a measured waist 32 inches, you are most-likely a stamped W32 in the Continental Trouser. Do not size down on these. Please note that the Continental Trousers pattern might not be a good option for all body types. Proportion-wise, those with Ronaldo-style muscular legs will probably look better in our regular Sportsman Chino models.

Trousers hemming: After the initial soak/hang dry process, we recommend settling down on the final length of the bottom hem after gently wearing the trousers around the house a bit. The cotton fabric tends to naturally bunch/wrinkle and pull the leg up slightly. Letting this specific fabric react to your own body for an hour or so will allow you to decide on a proper classic leg break that works for you. I opted for a classic 1 1/4 fold, and subtle period flood.
Style-wise, we do not recommend bulky denim rolls and over-played BRMC cuffing with these classic slacks.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
(Fit pic: Haus is wearing a size 38 jacket and W32 trousers.)

CHART

CARE:
Treat your MF® Continental “JC” black-coated denim garments as you would fancy indigo denim wearables. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast colors fades, otherwise machine wash on DELICATE.
Wash separately to avoid color transfer. Turn garment inside-out to minimize unsightly marbling of the fabric. Cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Full wash cycle and heat dryer are not recommended.

Initially black, the MF® Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit will develop its own attractive patina with normal wear, blending shades of indigo, black, and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Be patient and just enjoy looking good during the process!

Sportcoat and trousers available separately or as a two-piece suit for substantial saving.

Continental “JC” SPORTCOAT:
Retail $299.95
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Continental “JC” TROUSERS:
Retail $269.95
Sizes (Leg length about 36’’, left un-cuffed)
28
30
32
34
36
38

Continental :JC” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat + Trousers):
Retail $499.95
(Any size combination.)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

Mister Freedom® modified “Shipyard Chinos” shorts, made in USA.

US Coast Guards in a conversation with German POWs, Normandy France, 1944 (photo © U.S. National Archives)

Mister Freedom® modified “Shipyard Chinos” shorts.
Made in USA.

In an effort to make new with the old, a rather sustainable approach to consumerism, here is a Spring 2018 twist on our previously-released “Shipyard Chinos”.
Originally issued as part of our “American Sportswear NOS” Fall 2011 capsule collection, the harbinger of our “The Sportsman“on-going catalog, these utility pants have been customized into summer-weight bermudas with a handy side pocket.
The original pattern was inspired by vintage work pants and naval dungarees and features a wrap-leg construction, patch pockets and adjustable cinch-back. Along with the recently-made available Boonie Utes, these modified Shipyard Chinos shorts are now beefing-up our funky fresh, colorful, eclectic and sexy MF® Shorts section. Everything for the stylish gentleman with an urge to pay tribute to Tom Selleck.

The MF® Shipyard Chinos shorts are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and made in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRICS: 100% cotton tightly woven chino twill, milled in Japan. Dry hand, light ounce.
Three colors available, khaki, brown, navy. 

SPECS:
* An original Mister Freedom® pattern inspired by vintage work pants and naval dungarees.
* Modified into above-the-knee bermudas.
* Added side pocket.
* Front patch pockets secured in the waist band, copper rivet reinforced.
* Wrap leg construction (no side seam).
* Buckle-back adjustable strap with vintage French NOS metal buckle.
* Crotch rivet.
* Rear cotton cloth patch for custom stenciling, concealed behind back strap.
* Metal donut crest buttons for waist and fly, painted black.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Printed MF® mfsc label.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Shipyard Chinos shorts come raw/unwashed, unless specified.
They will shrink to tagged size after a cold rinse and line dry. Comfortable fit. I opted for a Size 30. Could go to 32 for a more roomy silhouette and cinch the waist. The silhouette is according to personal preferences, but i don’t recommend wearing those chinos tight. If you are a true waist 31, you should fit in a waist 30 in the shipyard chinos.
This modified shorts version of the Shipyard Chinos is cut above the knee. Results may vary according to your ratio waist/height and silhouette.

Refer to chart for measurements.
CHART

Available Raw/unwashed (unless otherwise specified on the MF® webstore)
Sizes Limited availability
28
30
32
34
36
38
Retail $229.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018

Mister Freedom® Casquette “La DEFFE”, New Old Stock fabric, made in USA. (June 2018 inventory UPDATE)

“La bande du Grand Albert”, Paris, by Brassaï, early 1930’s.

Mister Freedom® Casquette “La Deffe”, NOS fabrics.
Made in USA.

Here is an inventory update of our popular MF® Casquette “La Deffe”, an original headwear pattern we initially released in 2011 and have been consistently restocking since. The first batch was released during our “Les Apaches” collection.
Inspired by French 1920’s~40’s mens casquettes, these single-panel caps are cut from vintage New Old Stock fabrics, and constructed in the spirit of their ancestors.
The term ”deffe” is an obsolete French slang word, only familiar to an older generation today. Etymologically, a hat manufacturer called DESFOUX (located near Pont-Neuf, Paris, and established in 1878) made silk caps favored by butchers, pimps and Parisian apaches. A ”Desfoux” or “deffe” ended designating a cap in colorful gangster argot.

The MF® Casquette “La Deffe” is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®.

SPECS:
* An original MF® pattern inspired by French single-panel 1920’s~40’s casquettes.
* Cut from assorted New Old Stock vintage fabrics, available in very limited quantity.
* Genuine kangaroo leather sweatband, veg-tan, will not stretch or rot.
* Vintage NOS black twill hat lining, featuring silkscreened original Mister Freedom® artwork.
* Decorative crown strap, secured by 1900’s french NOS glass buttons
* Snap-up brim (vintage United Carr snap).
* Made in our fancy 7161 Beverly atelier.

SIZING:
The MF® Casquettes “La Deffe” are ready-to-wear and do not require any initial treatment.
We measure the sweatband in centimeters. If unsure, measure your head circumference with a metric cloth measuring tape to determine your hat size. Kangaroo leather will technically not stretch or shrink, but the hat crown might loosen slightly with normal wear.

CARE:
Professional cleaning only. Do not machine-wash.

Available raw/unwashed.
Limited sizes available per fabric option. See updated inventory here.
57cm
 (~ US 7 1/8)
58cm 
(~ US 7 1/4)
59cm
 (~ US 7 3/8)
60cm
 (~ US 7 1/2)
61cm 
(~ US 7 5/8)
62cm 
(~ US 7 3/4)
Retail $199.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.comour Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

Mister Freedom® “SCUTTLER CAP”, New Old Stock fabric, made in USA. (June 2018 inventory UPDATE)

Jack Sparrow in Japan (2016)

 

Mister Freedom® SCUTTLER CAP, NOS fabrics.
Made in USA.

If you are in a Peaky Blinders or Jack Sparrow kinda mood, here are a few additions to our original “Scuttler Cap” pattern initially introduced in 2013, our interpretation of the popular vintage newsboy eight-panel hat.

While Paris of the Belle Époque had its ‘Apaches’, Manchester enjoyed the ‘Scuttlers’, all victims, misfits and drop-outs left by the wayside of the Second Industrial Revolution…
In “Teenage, Creation of Youth 1875-1945”, British writer Jon Savage describes their attire this way, quoting a period account from the head missionary of a Manchester orphanage in 1890:

“…the “professional scuttler” wore “a puncher’s cap”, “narrow-go-wides” trousers, narrow-toed brass-tipped clogs, and heavy customized belts with designs, picked out in metal pins, that included serpents, stars, and pierced hearts. The “boy expert” Charles Russell observed that the Mancunian variant wore “a loose white scarf”, with hair “well plastered down upon his forehead”, “a peaked cap rather over one eye”, and trousers “cut – like a sailor’s – with ‘bell bottoms’”

The fabrics of our “Scuttler Caps” are New Old Stock, 1940’s to 1970’s.
Please note that the sizing paper label stitched to the back of the cap, a reference to vintage packaging, is easily removable and not part of permanent branding.

The MF® Scuttler Cap is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®.

SPECS:
* An original MF® pattern inspired by vintage 1930’s newsboy eight-panel caps.
* Genuine kangaroo leather sweatband.
* NOS cotton biased tape seam piecing.
* All made in our fancy 7161 Beverly atelier.

SIZING:
To avoid confusion, we recommend wearing the Scuttler Cap as-is, without rinsing it.
We measure the sweatband in centimeters. If unsure, measure your head with a metric cloth tape measure to determine your hat size. Kangaroo leather will not stretch or shrink but the hat crown might loosen slightly with normal wear.

CARE:
Professional cleaning only. Do not machine-wash.

Available raw/unwashed.
Limited sizes available per fabric option. See updated inventory here.
57cm
(~ US 7 1/8)
58cm
(~ US 7 1/4)
59cm
(~ US 7 3/8)
60cm
(~ US 7 1/2)
61cm
(~ US 7 5/8)
62cm
(~ US 7 3/4)
Retail $199.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.comour Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018