Mister Freedom® NIXON Shirt, Selvedge Chambray, mfsc “Surplus” SS 2018, made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® NIXON Shirt, selvedge color chambray.
Surplus” catalog mfsc Spring 2018.
Made in Japan.

These shirts are the latest additions to our MF® “SURPLUS” Spring 2018 line-up, an on-going concept consisting of timeless classics given a twist à-la MF®, all expertly manufactured in Japan by our long-time friends and partners at Toyo Enterprises. The MF® “SURPLUS” collection is the made-in-Japan ethically-crafted companion of our popular made-in-USA “Sportsman” catalog.

The pattern of our ‘Nixon’ shirt is largely inspired by an original 1950’s vintage “Roomy Richard” chambray work shirt, a now-defunct American workwear label established in the late 1920’s. The main appeal of that vintage piece was for us the clever double-layer ‘cigarette’ chest pocket with flap pattern, somewhat reminiscent of the famous Big Yank pocket, familiar to all vintage clothing aficionados. Originally devised to keep the worker’s cigarette pack dry, that practical little pocket can be used today as double storage for an iPhone and a public transportation ticket/smart card, etc…

Original 1940’s vintage “Roomy Richard” work shirt packaging.

Beside this tricky little feature (the design credit of which all goes to our friend Roomy Dick), the Mister Freedom® Nixon shirt boasts a 1930’s-style chin-strap, hi-count triple stitch construction and selvedge side gussets, all classic attributes of old-school vintage work shirts.
Following the original red and navy blue printed corduroy release of our Nixon Shirt during Fall 2017, this season introduces a classic palette of selvedge color chambrays, milled in Japan. The three available options of this handsome light-weight crispy and slubby fabric are blue, red and black.
To subtly set each option apart, we played around with the stitching colors, opting for tonal or contrast, and with the shade of color of the corozo buttons.

The Nixon Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Vintage workwear-style lightweight 100% cotton slubby chambray, white/red stripe selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
a) Blue Chambray
b) Red Chambray
c) Black Chambray

DETAILS:
* A garment pattern inspired by an original 1950’s “Roomy Richard” chambray shirt, and other vintage work shirts.
* Trim silhouette.
* Fancy double-layer left chest pocket with flap, known as “cigarette pocket”, featuring a concealed selvedge ID construction.
* Slanted opening right-side pocket with pen slot, featuring a concealed selvedge ID construction.
* Corozo wood buttons.
* Chin strap collar, with vintage-style mfsc-embossed metal buttons on the collar band.
* Hi-count triple stitch construction.
* Green bar-tack accents on pockets.
* MF® Surplus green contrast chainstitch on the inside.
* Side gussets featuring selvedge ID.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
All three versions of the Mister Freedom® Nixon Shirt Chambray come raw/unwashed and will all shrink to tagged size. We recommend an initial cold rinse/line dry. Further shrinkage can be achieved with full wash/machine dry, but we recommend a cold soak first since a shrunken chambray fabric will stretch back as much as an egg will un-break.
The MF® Nixon Chambrays are true-to-size. I wear a Medium, my usual size in mfsc shirting. After full wash/machine dry, the fit is quite trim, with a tapered waist for a slim silhouette.
Refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements, post cold soak/line dry. Again, further shrinkage can be expected with full wash/machine dry, and all three fabrics will reach similar measurements after full wash. Our chart reflects cold soak (not full wash) and line dry.

CHART

CARE:
The Nixon Chambray shirts are low-maintenance. Launder when needed. Machine-wash on delicate cycle, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent, line dry or machine dry.

Available raw (un-washed)
Sizes
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Retail: $329.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN indigo blue jeans, Lot.64 OG (Organic cotton), NOS 15.5 Oz. Cone Mills selvedge denim twill, Spring 2018, Made in USA.

Californian blue jeans Lot.64OG, worn & washed (about 4-month intermitent wear.)

Mister Freedom® Californian indigo blue jeans Lot.64 OG , Organic cotton, NOS 15.5 Oz.Cone Mills selvedge denim twill.
Spring 2018 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

If you were planning on adding a pair of jeans to your wardrobe menu, here is an “organic” version of our Californian, specifically designed for raw foodies.
🥁

Our MF® Californian blue jeans Lot.64 OG are cut from an older stock of premium denim from Cone Mills, and feature… ORGANIC cotton!
Not that anything about the process of making denim apparel usually epitomizes much of an eco-friendly gesture from us and the ever-booming international Denim Industry. In 2018, well over one billion pairs of blue jeans will likely change hands on the blue planet. This unrestrained consumerism means extensive farming of genetically-modified cotton (largely China and India), high water consumption of indigo-dyeing and yarn-bleaching inherent to milling denim, unnecessary chemical ’vintage’ washes favored by many contemporary labels to boost sales, cleverly-planned obsolescence of disposable fast-fashion jeans with convincing “bargain” price tags, etc…
As regular purveyors of selvedge denim wearables and members of this fine Industry, we, at Mister Freedom®, are well aware that
 featuring “organic denim” for Spring 2018 only buys us a temporary good conscience. The most we will claim is a determination to stick to environmentally-conscious countries for milling, sourcing and manufacturing denim, such as USA and Japan.

In any case, some time before hearing the sad news of the shutting down of Cone Denim White Oak plant in Greensboro, N.C., we secured a nice cargo of New Old Stock Cone 15.5 Oz organic denim. With an attractive raw indigo hue somewhat reminiscent of the color of rigid 501 Levi’s® one could pick-up from Army/Navy surplus stores in the 1970’s-80’s, this fabric was a perfect candidate for our Californian blue jeans family, the humble Mister Freedom® contribution to the crowded world of five-pocket jeans.

After road-testing an early proto, a few months of normal wear and a few washes later, the denim evo showed similarities with the “Malibu” denim we used on the Spring 2017 Conductor JacketSpeedways, etc… No high contrast fading or fast indigo abrasion (unlike the sugar cane fiber “Okinawa” denim of the Lot.64 BB), no impressive Friday-special honeycombs, but a beautiful and uncommon indigo blue, a blessing for the denim-on-denim creative connoisseur who loves mixing-up his indigoes.

Feb 20, 2018 UPDATE: We received a kind and insightful email from our friend Chip at Cone Denim giving us the actual background of this specific fabric. Chip knows a thing or two about this organic indigo denim, as he personally developed it at the time:
“We (Cone Denim) partnered with Stony Creek Colors in Tennessee who are working with Tobacco farmers to change their crops into indigo plant.
This is how the fabric gets to be such a vibrant blue, and is completely unique from any other dye we have ever run in the past.
It truly is one of the greatest,  and most sustainable, selvedges we put out: Texas organic cotton, America indigo plant dye, all woven here in the US.”

The pocket bag fabric we opted for is an old stock of sturdy 100% cotton woven plaid with warm saffron/yellow tones, enhanced by the most flamboyant Californian paper flasher to date, featuring an enchanting sunset in Venice Beach, California, hotter than a 1970’s Playboy® magazine fashion ad.

For the vintage packaging collector, here is a recap of the colorful Mister Freedom® five-pocket blue jeans pocket flashers released in the past 8 years:
Californian Lot.54 (Yellow paper flasher, 2010): The original issue, straight leg, classic 1950’s silhouette. Issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
Californian Lot.44 (Box packaging, 2011): Similar pattern, buckle back added, straight leg, classic 40’s-1950’s silhouette. Issued in about 37 types of NOS denim twills.
Californian Lot.64 (Red paper flasher, 2013): Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Originally issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
Californian Lot.64US (Army green paper flasher, 2014): “Uncle Sam” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
Californian Lot.64OK (Orange paper flasher, 2014): “Okinawa Advisor” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 14 Oz. “Okinawa 301” indigo denim.
Californian Lot.74 (Aqua green paper flasher, 2015): Tapered, our slimmest leg, classic “1960’s youth” vibe. Originally issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim, then in NOS 12.5 Oz. wheat denim
Californian Lot.654 (Yellow paper flasher, 2015): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, with the bells and whistles of our original Lot.54. Issued in NOS 12 Oz. Cone indigo denim.
Californian Lot.64E (Red/White stripe paper flasher, 2016): Special “US Presidential Election” Edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 16.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.674 (Ivory white paper flasher, 2017): Top block of the Lot.64 mixed with tapered leg of the Lot.74, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64BB (Dark navy paper flasher, 2017): Lot.64 with added Buckle-Back cinch, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64OG (Venice Beach Sunset paper flasher, 2018): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, issued in NOS 15.5 Oz. organic Cone Mills denim.

 

The Mister Freedom® Lot.64 OG are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 15.5 Oz. indigo twill denim, Organic cotton, solid white selvedge ID.
Pocket Bags:
NOS 100% cotton woven plaid fabric, saffron/yellow check pattern.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* New Old Stock woven plaid fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (Venice Beach, CA., enchanting sunset edition).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT.64 OG (organic cotton) blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process. Note that this specific denim is pretty much sanforized and will not move much.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing: cold soak for about 30mn/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry.
The word is to go for your usual mfsc (Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane) waist size. I opted for a Waist 32 in the Lot.64OG, my usual size in the MF® Californian family.
As with all denim twills, slight back-and-forth shrinkage/stretching will occur for a while, fluctuating according to the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.(Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry, ie. minimal shrinkage.)

CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36

Retail $329.95

Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

Mister Freedom® CONDUCTOR Jacket, NOS hickory stripe twill, Sportsman Catalog Spring 2018, Made in USA.

 

The Musicaladers (with Bing Crosby), 1920’s. Lareida’s dancehall, Spokane Valley, WA. (Photo courtesy The Spokesman)

Evolution of the NOS Hickory stripe twill: Unworn/unwashed MF® Conductor Jacket (2018) and worn/washed Sportsman Shirt (2013)

MF® CONDUCTOR Jacket, vintage NOS selvedge hickory stripe twill.
Sportsman Catalog, Spring 2018
Made in USA.

The MF® CONDUCTOR pattern, a fancy denim jacket style for the caboose-inclined and vintage iron horse connoisseur, was originally added to our ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog during the Spring of 2017.

During R&D, we were aiming at a work jacket design standing out from other traditional chore coats, engineer jacket, railroad jackets, farmer jackets of the same family. We grabbed a few pointers from our 1920’s-inspired Loco Jacket (“Viva La Revolución”, Spring 2013), and built the CONDUCTOR from scratch, with all original pocket designs and details. Blending elegant tailoring touches with vintage workwear functional ruggedness, we cooked-up a garment with both rugged trainman and gentleman passenger in mind. Our Conductor Jacket makes it easy to switch from shoveling coal to sipping a libation at the plush red velvet wagon-bar, with the usual MF® grain of salt.

The first release of the Conductor was in a favorite fabric of ours, the “Malibu Sea” denim.

For Spring 2018, the MF® Conductor Jacket gets cut from another mfsc favorite, a vintage New Old Stock hickory stripe lightweight twill that came out of an old warehouse in Southern California. We were lucky to score a few rolls of that goodness, and thought the hickory stripes were a perfect match for our old-school railroad worker-inspired jacket. The exact same fabric was featured on the Mister Freedom® “Sportsman Shirt” from 2013, so we are providing a few evo photos for reference.

Whether worn as a top garment or as a layer under another ¾ length coat, with a classic bowtie à-la Bing Crosby’s Musicaladers, with a simple T-shirt or chambray workshirt à-la Choo-Choo Charlie, the MF® Conductor Jacket is pretty versatile. The numerous pockets make it quite a practical garment when running around town or traveling.

The Conductor Jacket is designed by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Vintage 100% cotton New Old Stock lightweight twill, hickory stripe pattern, origin USA.

DETAILS:
* An all original mfsc pattern inspired by early American workwear and European tailoring, vintage 1920’s-30’s chore coats and denim engineer jackets.
* Four original MF® pocket-shape designs.
* Elegant front panel cut-away.
* Watch compartment on left chest pocket.
* Pockets lined/half-lined with NOS 2×1 indigo denim.
* Inside iPhone chest pocket
* Black oxidized donut wreath buttons.
* Collar chin strap with contrast copper donut button.
* Split back panel, displaying selvedge ID.
* Selvedge front panel facing, cuffs and watch pocket opening slit.
* Side cinch straps, French NOS metal buckles.
* Contrasting green chainstitch, bar-tacks and button holes.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Conductor Jacket comes UN-WASHED (=raw) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments:

* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
The garment will stiffen when dry following this initial routine, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and the ‘crispiness’ will subside with normal wear.

I opted for a size 38 (Medium), for a relaxed fit. I could fit a size 36 but preferred having the option to layer in colder weather.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Some light indigo blue transfer to the white yarns might occur. This is normal and will subside over time and subsequent wash cycles.

Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Retail $ 329.95
Available from our Los Angeles ol’ pile o’ rags, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

Mister Freedom® Cowboy Jacket, NOS Black Coated Denim, Sportsman mfsc Spring 2018, made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® COWBOY Jacket, New Old Stock black-coated crosshatch denim (BCD).
Sportsman mfsc Spring 2018.
Made in USA.

The latest release for the Spring 2018 Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog is a new iteration of the popular MF® Cowboy Jacket, our twist on the classic trucker-style jacket. The MF® Cowboy Jacket is already available in a traditional dark indigo NOS Cone mills 12.5 Oz denim twill, a beautiful lighter indigo “Malibu Sea” 14 Oz. selvedge denim milled in Japan, and a NOS wheat color Cone Mills 12.5 Oz selvedge denim.

This time around, we wanted a dancing partner for the MF® SPEEDWAYS Jeans issued for Fall 2017 in a special “coated denim”. This special NOS fabric is not the modern waxy black rubber type coating seen on novelty contemporary jeans, but rather an interesting indigo denim twill printed with a soft-hand opaque coat of matte black water-based ink. If the black ink completely covers the indigo blue warp of the denim, the usual light-colored grayish weft (with somewhat of a greenish sheen) shows on the reverse of the fabric. The slub of the yarns is visible on the weft threads, giving this specific denim its crosshatch quality.
If the Cowboy Jacket in BCD initially looks flat black, it will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo with black and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Undertones of indigo will rapidly appear with normal wear abrasion. See the denim wash test photos below, also featuring a small section rubbed with sand paper.

  

We opted for tonal stitching and un-branded oxidized black wreath donut buttons, for a rather unassuming vibe and neutral fashion statement.

The mfsc COWBOY Jacket in Black-Coated Denim is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock crosshatch coated denim, soft-hand matte black finish on indigo warp, 100% cotton, about 12-13 Oz. Origin unknown (maybe Italy).
DETAILS:
* Fairly trim silhouette, sixties vibe.
* Original MF® slanted flap chest pockets.
* Oxydized black wreath donut shank buttons.
* MF® tonal “M” stitching on pockets.
* Charcoal “salt & pepper” chambray fabric accents on pocket flap facing.
* Buttoned cinch-waist side tabs.
* Copper rivet for pockets and sleeve placket reinforcements.
* Debossed leather MF® original patch.
* All cotton thread chainstitch construction, tonal with contrasting red accents on the inside.

* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT
The Cowboy Jacket in BCD (Black-Coated Denim) comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. This specific denim is pretty much sanforized, and very minimal shrinkage is to be expected.
We suggest you follow the usual initial method we recommend for raw denim garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
* As an optional step, wear the garment briefly when still not fully dry, in order to slightly shape it to your body and set creases. Hang and let fully dry.

The denim garment will stiffen when dry following this initial routine, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and the ‘crispiness’ will subside with normal wear.

As with all the versions of the MF® COWBOY Jacket, I opted to size down from the Medium (38) I usually wear in msfc garments, and went for a snug 36 (once cold soaked/line dry.)
What works is subjective and will depend on what silhouette you are comfortable and familiar with, on your body type and personal style.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

 

CARE:
Treat the MF® COWBOY Jacket BCD as you would fancy indigo denim wearables. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast colors fades, otherwise machine wash on delicate. Wash separately to avoid color transfer. Turn garment inside-out to minimize unsightly marbling of the fabric. Cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Initially black, your Cowboy Jacket BCD will develop its own attractive patina with normal wear, blending shades of indigo, black, and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles.

Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
X-Small (34)
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)

Retail $ 349.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018

Mister Freedom® Skivvy or Stanley T-shirts Two-Pack box, made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom®  Skivvy T-shirts / Stanley T-shirts, Two-Pack Edition.
SS2018 Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

Popular staples of the MF® Sportsman catalog (our on-going production of all made-in-USA originals), are the classic SKIVVY and STANLEY tubular T-Shirts. Their simplicity, old school fit, vintage demeanor, CoO, …, have appealed to many of our patrons, from bonafide USMC Devil Dogs to Hollywood celebrities.

Skivvies and Stanleys have become second skins for some, worn as undershirts or summer classics, so we are now releasing a Two-Pack option. Our friend Paul Rizzo, who could sell a tank out of an Upstate NY car lot, would call that a “package deal.” Individually priced at $69.95 per shirt, a two-pack is now available for $124.95, a substantial saving indeed. And no, Frank, we’re not throwing in the boonie hat.

For the packaging, we wanted to stay away from plastic/PVC, as there’s already enough of it in our oceans. We went instead for lightweight cardboard boxes, each hand-customized and reminiscent of old military stenciled ammo metal boxes. Please re-use or recycle.

Refer to the original MF® blog posts for specificities of both Skivvy and Stanley T-shirts, specs/sizing/fit/care instructions.
Each box will contain two identical solid T-shirts (no style/color/size mix).

Available options of the Tw0-Pack release are as follows:

* Two-Pack SKIVVY T-shirts (XS, S, M, L, or XL):
White.
Navy Blue.
Sage Green.

* Two-Pack STANLEY T-shirts (XS, S, M, L, or XL):
White.
Heather Grey.
Jungle Green (olive)

Retail: $124.95 (two identical T-shirts only, no substitution. Does not include a boonie hat.)

Soon available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018