Mister Freedom Naval Chinos, Type No.266ac, selvedge indigo canvas, Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection

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Mister Freedom® Naval Chinos, Type No.266ac, selvedge indigo cotton canvas.
Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection
Made in Japan

A nod to our early collaborations with Sugar Cane Co, specifically the “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” capsule collection of 2008, we are issuing our original “Naval Chinos” again this Fall. With a pattern inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, this Ten Year Anniversary edition will come in two very distinct options, indigo canvas and chino twill.
First to be released is a dark indigo yarn-dyed selvedge cotton canvas model. This is the same fabric used for our recently-released Anniversary Liberty Issue CPO Shirt.

Please note that this is canvas and not twill, canvas is plain weave, twill has a diagonal pattern. This indigo fabric is very different from the indigo-dyed ‘midnight twill’ types (also referred to as double indigo denim) we have often used in the past.
Canvases and twills both drape very differently, and canvas often feels and looks stiffer than twill. And stiff our indigo canvas Naval Chinos are at first! With normal wear/wash cycles, the fabric will not only naturally soften, but also fade nicely.

The MF® “Type MFSC No.266ac” Naval Chinos, indigo canvas model, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Sturdy and dry 100% cotton canvas, 11.7 Oz., dark and deep shade of double indigo warp and weft, white with red line selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Due to heavy starching in the milling stages, this fabric feels quite stiff at first and even more so after the initial recommended cold soak/hang dry process. This is normal and will gradually subside with normal wash/wear cycles.

SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers.
* Stripe ticking cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Selvedge ID displayed on pocket facing.
* Button fly, brown corrozo wood buttons.
* Front slash pockets and back welt pockets featuring arcuate decorative stitching.
* Watch pocket.
* Double MF® woven labeling on inside waist band.
* Concealed cloth label for custom markings on lower leg, French Navy style.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Made in Japan, designed in USA, worn around the World.

SIZING/FIT:
The indigo canvas Type MFSC 266ac Naval Chinos come raw/unwashed/loomstate.

We recommend an original 30-40mn cold soak with occasional hand agitation, then spin dry cycle. Hang dry.
The tagged size corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. I wear a comfortable Waist 32 in these chinos. No need to size up or down from your actual measured waist size.

naval-chinos-indigo-fit
As the attractive fit pix suggests, these feature a vintage silhouette, mid rise, with somewhat of a classic leg, neither slim nor baggy.
Refer to chart for soaked measurements.

naval-chinos-266-ac-indigo

CARE:
We recommend hand washing this garment when laundering becomes necessary. The loss of indigo dye will then be minimized.
If using a machine, turn the trousers inside-out to avoid marbling, use cold water and minimal eco-friendly detergent, and set to ‘delicate’. Line dry.
Please note that color crocking is to be expected, as it is the nature of indigo to rub off.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.

Retail $329.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2016

OG-107 Cotton sateen-back Sportsman Chinos, Fall 2014. Made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom OG107 Chinos Fall 2014

Mister Freedom OG107 Chinos Fall 2014

Mister Freedom OG107 Chinos Fall 2014

OG-107 Cotton Sateen-back Chino Trousers
“The Sportsman” Fall 2014

This might come as a surprise to the original gangster in cell 107, but OG-107 is a reference to the shade #107 of Olive Green that the US Army had settled on as the color of  its uniforms, sometime in the early 1950’s. It became by extension a nickname for the set of utilities the issued to military personnel.

For those who enjoy discussing shades of green in the military at the family dinner table, here is a good starting point for interesting historical facts and references, such as:

…”On 7 April 1950, the Uniform Board presented its first uniform display to the General Staff. In order to provide a wide range of color choices, the QMC dressed mannequins in 31 uniforms of different color combinations but of similar design. Among the colors were the 16 shades of gray-green, three shades of gray, five of blue, and one of taupe. For comparison, the uniform line-up included the existing olive-drab and green and pink Army uniforms, and the Navy, Air Force, Marine Corps and U.S. Military Academy uniforms.“…

Follow this insider’s scoop by this piece of goodness, for more than you are probably willing to read about OD vs. OG, Army Green 44 vs. Olive Drab shade 7…
Please keep in mind that the more punctilious the regulations, the more arguably accurate the dye batches and paint mixes delivered by contracted manufacturers. Wartime production crunch time didn’t help either.

Back on point, I’d love to tell you we raided an abandoned storage brick building around the Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot and scored a few rolls of NOS mil-specs OG cotton sateen fabric for our “Sportsman” chinos… Instead, we settled for a yardage batch from the folks at Buzz Rickson’s, who know a thing or two about period mil-specs textiles.
One might be familiar with this specific fabric, technically a  “4/1 (four warp up, one weft down) 9 Oz. cotton back sateen”, as it is similar to the shell part of the US Army M-51 field jacket (save for the water-repellent treatment and the shade of green).

M51 Pantone Mister Freedom

Because we were more preoccupied with getting an even tan than with re-inventing the wheel this summer, we decided to roll with our classic Sportsman chinos pattern, the flat felled side seam type. Already available in several fabric options the entire World envies us for, we are adding the OG-107 chinos to the catalog for Fall 2014, a civvy garment in a military fabric.
These pants have a late 1950’s type silhouette, quite comfortable by today standards. They won’t  prevent blood flow to the lower limbs, offering just enough room for an occasional mawashi geri  on Black Friday.

The Sportsman OG-107 Chinos are designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, fabric loomed  in Japan.

Please note that production comes without ID stencils on the waistband facing.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by vintage cotton twill work pants.

FABRIC: Mil-specs Olive Green #107 shade (grayish-green) 4/1 cotton back sateen
(An approx. Pantone Color reference would be  450 U)

DETAILS:
* Relaxed 1950′s type silhouette and fit.
* Natural corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Flat-felled side seam construction.
* Welt back pockets.
* Original combo belt loops, wide & narrow.
* The ever charming ‘crotch gusset’.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* Natural color 100% cotton sail cloth pocket bags, waist band and fly facing.
* Watch pocket, for which you will have to find a use.
* Tonal 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstich MF® signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on back waistback, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/WASHING:
The ‘Sportsman Chinos’ are sold RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size. The waist sizing is pretty ‘generous’, but still get a 32 if that is your usual size. This OG107 issue feels slightly slimmer than other Sportsman chinos versions, such as its Beach Chino twill or Indigo Métisse comrades, partly because of the flat felled outside seam construction vs. the plain seam type.
The bottom are left open to your cuffing preference. I opted for a 1½ inch cuff, regular single needle machine stitch.

This cotton fabric is pretty low maintenance. Original cold soak and line dry. Further washing when needed, on gentle cycle, warm/cold water, line dry. If you insist on the heat dryer, turn trousers inside out to avoid issues with an undesirable ‘marbling’ effect.
Time between laundry will vary greatly according to one’s occupation and common sense: wash when dirty.

Refer to charts below for raw/rinsed/line dried measurements:

Sportsman OD Chino Size Chart

Available RAW/unwashed.
Waist Sizes: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
RETAIL $289.95

Available on www.misterfreedom.com
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

“SPORTSMAN CHINOS”, Beach Chino and Indigo twill. Mister Freedom® ‘The Sportsman’ Collection, Spring 2014. Made in USA.

Mister Freedom Chino Sportsman 2014

Working on brand image. Glamour is key.

Mister Freedom Chino Sportsman 2014

Mister Freedom Chino Sportsman 2014

 

Mister Freedom Chino Sportsman 2014

 

Sportsman Chinos Mister Freedom 2013

Sportsman Chinos, 2013 issue

 

The SPORTSMAN CHINOS
Beach Chino twill and Indigo Métisse Twill
Sportsman Collection Spring 2014

Introduced during Spring 2013 and part of the Sportsman catalog, the Sportsman chinos are Mister Freedom® take on a beloved American classic, made in USA for the occasion.
The buckle back and relaxed fit gives them somewhat of a 1950’s vibe, in a traditional work-meets-casual trouser style.
This simple design, spiced up with some MF® signature details, is now being released in two new fabrics, both loomed in Japan.

This season’s selvedge chino twill version is similar to the 2013 release, but in a lighter ‘sand’ khaki color. We called it “Beach”, because “Sleepy Bora Bora lagoon at dawn” was too long and probably taken. Additionally, it makes us sound like a lifestyle brand, I like that.
Below are photos of my Chinos (2013 release), after some normal wear/wash process.

The indigo twill version brings us back to our “Les Apaches” days with the cotton/linen métisse fabric introduced with the veste ouvrier, paletot, chemise hirondelle, and gilet.
After normal wash & wear, the patina on this fabric is pretty amazing. There are some beautiful worn examples out there, as I’ve been able to witness on several occasions.
It appears friend and early-days supporter Tyler Madden from Self Edge Portland submitted his veste ouvrier to some rough work schedule. Well done Sir.
Tyler’s jacket’ patina did not come out of a Turkish or Bangladeshi washhouse.

Tyler-Veste-Ouvrier

Tyler’s “veste ouvrier” from 2011

Note on industrial washing:
Chip Bergh, Levi’s CEO since 2011, announced recently that he had not washed his jeans for a year.
Cool.
Besides the horror this created in the common First-World household and the points gained with the Denimhead community, I thought his position quite interesting. Mr. Bergh wants to save the planet one laundry load at a time. Good man, thanks Chip. Indeed, it is clear that we, consumers, and our darn hyper-active washing machines, are challenging the Blue Planet’s water supply.
Quite amusing of a public statement for a company whose net income ($229 million in 2013) has been mostly generated by selling and promoting stonewashed jeans.
So, yes. You go Water<Less™ in Turkey, and I won’t forget to do my part at home, ie. “pick one day of the week to go shower-less“.
Problem solved.
Pheew.

If it's good enough for the President...

If it’s good enough for the President…

After this diversion, dare I mention that because our indigo métisse is a frayed-edge type fabric, the side seam is of the flat-felled chainstitched construction type, while the chino twill side seam display the twill selvedge.
The Sportsman Chinos are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from fabric loomed in Japan.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by vintage cotton twill work pants.

FABRIC Options:
a) Beach Chino Twill: Raw 100% cotton selvedge ‘Chino’ twill, ‘sand’ color, milled in Japan on shuttle looms.
b) Indigo Métisse Twill: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early French indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light…

DETAILS:
* Relaxed 1950’s type silhouette and fit.
* Natural corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Selvedge leg side seams for the chino twill, flat-felled seam for the indigo twill version.
* Welt back pockets.
* Original combo belt loops, wide & narrow.
* The ever attractive-sounding ‘crotch gusset’.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* New Old Stock blue/white stripe 100% cotton twill pocket bags.
* Natural 100% cotton sailcloth waist band and fly facing.
* Watch pocket.
* 100% cotton thread construction, flat felled seams, with inside green chainstich signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on back waistback, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/WASHING:
The ‘Sportsman Chinos’ are sold RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size. Both fabric will shrink to approximately the same measurements. The waist sizing is pretty ‘generous’, but still get a 32 if that is your usual size.
The bottom are left open to your cuffing preference. I opted for a 1½ inch fold, regular single needle machine stitch.
a) Chino Twill: This fabric is pretty low maintenance. Original cold soak and line dry. Further washing when needed, on gentle cycle, warm/cold water, line dry. The original sheen of the fabric will dull out with wear and wash.
b) Indigo métisse Twill: We recommend an original cold soak, spin dry, line dry. Color croaking is to be expected. This indigo option is very sun sensitive. When dirty and according to your activities, hand-wash inside out with mild detergent and line dry.
As common sense dictates, riding horses for a living or clerking at the DMV will affect time between laundries.

Refer to charts below for raw/rinsed/line dried measurements:

Sportsman Chinos Beach Sportsman Chinos Indigo

Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
RETAIL
a)
Beach Chino Twill: $289.95
b)
Indigo Métisse Twill: $329.95

Available on www.misterfreedom.com
Email
sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

By the way, nothing personal Chip, I am sure you are sincere in longing for a cleaner Planet. Maybe some Tide™ would help.
Ooh, if you see Bart, kindly mention his tab. No, not the red one, he’ll know. Thanks.

Yours Truly,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®

“SPORTSMAN CHINOS” (Made in California), Mister Freedom® ‘The Sportsman’ Collection, Spring 2013

Sportsman Chinos ©2013 Mister Freedom®

“The SPORTSMAN CHINOS”
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co, ‘The Sportsman’ Collection
MFSC Spring 2013

Having introduced ‘The Sportsman’ concept collection with our “Sportsman Shirt” and “Skivvy Shirt” earlier this month, we’ll get right into this new addition for Spring 2013. Aren’t you happy, no rambling this time 😉

The ‘SPORTSMAN CHINOS’ are another Mister Freedom® take on a beloved classic, using some signature details we like. Simple design, a non-trendy MF® interpretation of traditional work-meets-casual pants.
The pattern we used is very similar to that of the denim “Frontier Chinos“, made this time in a durable selvedge ‘chino’ cotton twill, milled in Japan.

Designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by vintage cotton twill work pants and 1950’s cotton slacks.

FABRIC:
Raw 100% cotton selvedge ‘Chino’ twill, ‘honey’ color, milled in Japan on shuttle looms.

DETAILS:
* Made in California, USA.
* Relaxed 1950’s type silhouette and fit, mid-rise.
* Corozo wood button fly and top waist button.
* Selvedge leg side seams.
* Welt back pockets.
* Original combo belt loops, wide & narrow.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* NOS hickory stripe 100% cotton twill pocket bags, origin USA.
* Natural 100% cotton sailcloth waist band and fly facing.
* Chino twill selvedge fold on inside front slash pockets.
* Watch pocket, that no one ever uses to put a watch in.
* 100% cotton thread construction, flat felled seams, with inside green chainstich signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on back waistback, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Featuring the ever attractive sounding ‘Crotch gusset’.
* Vintage USN web belt NOT included, but you knew that.

SIZING/WASHING:
These pants should be pretty low maintenance, but we still recommend gentle cold wash and line dry. The ‘Sportsman Chinos’ are sold RAW (unwashed) and are not sanforized, they will shrink to tagged size.
The waist sizing is pretty ‘generous’, but still get a 32 if that is your usual size. These are not tights, but man pants.
Like with vintage good quality cotton khaki twill pants, the “Sportsman Chinos’ will lighten up gradually in color and soften up to ‘butter status’ with repeat wash/wear.
Refer to chart below for raw/rinsed/line dried measurements:

Sportsman Chinos Sizing chart ©2013 Mister Freedom®

Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
RETAIL $289.95

Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.

Mister Freedom® MFSC American Sportswear Fall 2011 (Part 4): The “Shipyard Chinos”

Shipyard Chinos MFSC cl1

The fourth installment of our American Sportswear Fall2011 collection is in. Introducing the SHIPYARD CHINOS, made in USA…
To be honest, they feel as “Fall” as our NOS chambray shirts did but… whayagonado. One word: ooops.

Inspired by silhouettes from old photos and movies, naval garb, 30’s-40’s work pants… and the great Port of Los Angeles. So here are some chino pants to wrap around your legs.

SPECS:
PATTERN: All original MFSC pattern. Not the typical USAF/USN traditional “chinos” pattern, more of a work dungarees design, but in cotton chino twill.
FABRICS: 100% cotton tightly woven chino twill, woven in Japan. Very “crispy” feel. Lighter ounce. Three colours available, khaki, brown, navy.
DETAILS:
* Wrap leg construction (no side seam)
* Front patch pockets secured in the waist band, copper rivet reinforced.
* Adjustable cinch back strap with NOS metal sharp prong buckle (yes, the kind that…)
* Rear cotton cloth patch for custom stenciling, concealed behind back strap.
* Metal donut crest buttons for waist and fly, painted black.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Crotch copper rivet, so no sitting in front of the fire.
SIZING/FIT: Comfortable fit, but not baggy. I wear a size 30 on the photos. Could go to 32 for a more roomy silhouette and cinch the waist. The silhouette is according to personal preferences, but i don’t recommend wearing those chinos tight. If you are a true waist 31, you will fit in a waist 30 in the shipyard chinos.
This raw cotton fabric has some heavy shrinkage but will shrink to (a generous) tagged size. See chart below

Shipyard Chino Sizing chart

Garment designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Waist Size: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Colour: Khaki, Brown, Navy
Retail: $269.95

Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call (323) 653-2014 to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support.

Note: Also featured on the photos is a beat up MFSC Midnight P-Jacket, and some, not any cleaner, MF Road Camp boots. Also an original Mister Freedom® military recycled canvas bag, indigo dyed. Ok, i’ll let you go now 😉