The SPORTSMAN CHINOS
Beach Chino twill and Indigo Métisse Twill
Sportsman Collection Spring 2014
Introduced during Spring 2013 and part of the Sportsman catalog, the Sportsman chinos are Mister Freedom® take on a beloved American classic, made in USA for the occasion.
The buckle back and relaxed fit gives them somewhat of a 1950’s vibe, in a traditional work-meets-casual trouser style.
This simple design, spiced up with some MF® signature details, is now being released in two new fabrics, both loomed in Japan.
This season’s selvedge chino twill version is similar to the 2013 release, but in a lighter ‘sand’ khaki color. We called it “Beach”, because “Sleepy Bora Bora lagoon at dawn” was too long and probably taken. Additionally, it makes us sound like a lifestyle brand, I like that.
Below are photos of my Chinos (2013 release), after some normal wear/wash process.
The indigo twill version brings us back to our “Les Apaches” days with the cotton/linen métisse fabric introduced with the veste ouvrier, paletot, chemise hirondelle, and gilet.
After normal wash & wear, the patina on this fabric is pretty amazing. There are some beautiful worn examples out there, as I’ve been able to witness on several occasions.
It appears friend and early-days supporter Tyler Madden from Self Edge Portland submitted his veste ouvrier to some rough work schedule. Well done Sir.
Tyler’s jacket’ patina did not come out of a Turkish or Bangladeshi washhouse.
Note on industrial washing:
Chip Bergh, Levi’s CEO since 2011, announced recently that he had not washed his jeans for a year.
Besides the horror this created in the common First-World household and the points gained with the Denimhead community, I thought his position quite interesting. Mr. Bergh wants to save the planet one laundry load at a time. Good man, thanks Chip. Indeed, it is clear that we, consumers, and our darn hyper-active washing machines, are challenging the Blue Planet’s water supply.
Quite amusing of a public statement for a company whose net income ($229 million in 2013) has been mostly generated by selling and promoting stonewashed jeans.
So, yes. You go Water<Less™ in Turkey, and I won’t forget to do my part at home, ie. “pick one day of the week to go shower-less“.
After this diversion, dare I mention that because our indigo métisse is a frayed-edge type fabric, the side seam is of the flat-felled chainstitched construction type, while the chino twill side seam display the twill selvedge.
The Sportsman Chinos are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from fabric loomed in Japan.
PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by vintage cotton twill work pants.
a) Beach Chino Twill: Raw 100% cotton selvedge ‘Chino’ twill, ‘sand’ color, milled in Japan on shuttle looms.
b) Indigo Métisse Twill: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early French indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light…
* Relaxed 1950’s type silhouette and fit.
* Natural corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Selvedge leg side seams for the chino twill, flat-felled seam for the indigo twill version.
* Welt back pockets.
* Original combo belt loops, wide & narrow.
* The ever attractive-sounding ‘crotch gusset’.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* New Old Stock blue/white stripe 100% cotton twill pocket bags.
* Natural 100% cotton sailcloth waist band and fly facing.
* Watch pocket.
* 100% cotton thread construction, flat felled seams, with inside green chainstich signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on back waistback, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.
The ‘Sportsman Chinos’ are sold RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size. Both fabric will shrink to approximately the same measurements. The waist sizing is pretty ‘generous’, but still get a 32 if that is your usual size.
The bottom are left open to your cuffing preference. I opted for a 1½ inch fold, regular single needle machine stitch.
a) Chino Twill: This fabric is pretty low maintenance. Original cold soak and line dry. Further washing when needed, on gentle cycle, warm/cold water, line dry. The original sheen of the fabric will dull out with wear and wash.
b) Indigo métisse Twill: We recommend an original cold soak, spin dry, line dry. Color croaking is to be expected. This indigo option is very sun sensitive. When dirty and according to your activities, hand-wash inside out with mild detergent and line dry.
As common sense dictates, riding horses for a living or clerking at the DMV will affect time between laundries.
Refer to charts below for raw/rinsed/line dried measurements:
SIZES: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
a) Beach Chino Twill: $289.95
b) Indigo Métisse Twill: $329.95
By the way, nothing personal Chip, I am sure you are sincere in longing for a cleaner Planet. Maybe some Tide™ would help.
Ooh, if you see Bart, kindly mention his tab. No, not the red one, he’ll know. Thanks.