Mister Freedom® “NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” (NCT) CHINOS, 12Oz “301 Okinawa” SC denim.
FW2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” catalog.
Made in JAPAN.
This pattern was part of the original line-up of the small grouping that somewhat managed to put us on the fashion map sometime in 2008, i.e. the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” (NCT) capsule collection.
For the nostalgics, we still unearth remnants from our ship’s stowage occasionally, a misplaced stack here, mislabeled box there, and we update inventory with New Old Stock (NOS).
A reissue of the original chino twill model was released for our 2016 mfsc ten-year anniversary, and we have issued several iterations of that pattern through the years.
Our NCT Chinos are inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, a pattern plausibly revisited by a Naval Base tailor at some point, featuring a mix of period Mil-Specs and fancy civvy custom tailoring. The cut is fairly representative of our early days, featuring a slimmer leg and lower rise than military originals. We were at the time morphing the high-waisted and baggy cuts of 1930s-40s utilitarian designs with European tailored silhouettes. Most of our bottoms today feature a higher rise than our NCT Chinos.
For Fall 2020, we are introducing a denim model of the NCT Chinos pattern, cut from an old mfsc favorite, a 12Oz. “301 Okinawa” selvedge denim exclusively developed and trademarked by Sugar Cane Co in Japan. That special Left Hand Twill (LHT) denim has been milled in several fabric weights by SC through the years, but consistently consists of a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton. The sugar cane fibers, a by-product of the sugar cane industry, are responsible for the slubby and “hairy” quality of the twill, and, full disclaimer, we have heard stories about customers plucking out prickly fibers in the weave with tweezers!
One of the more desirable characteristics of this premium denim is the combination of both a dark indigo warp and rapid fading ability. MF® OG denimheads will attest to the rewarding patina potential of the Okinawa denim family.
The pocket bags are cut from an old mfsc classic fabric, a fancy striped ticking twill inspired by antique French textiles. For a subdued demeanor, we kept the stitching tonal and opted for black-painted metal donut-type tack buttons for the fly and waistband.
The decorative arcuate stitch on the slash and welt pocket openings is a detail borrowed from early European tailoring. The leg construction uses flat-felled seams and the Okinawa selvedge is displayed in each pocket facing.
The Mister Freedom® NCT Chinos “Okinawa” denim edition, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co in Japan.
FABRIC:
“Okinawa 301” denim, 12 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, “hairy” and slubby, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton.
SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers, custom-made military garments and early European tailoring.
* Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Button fly, black-painted metal donut-type tack buttons.
* Thin trousers-style belt-loops.
* Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing.
* Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Woven mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband.
* Designed in USA.
* Made in JAPAN.
SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® NCT Chinos in “Okinawa” denim come RAW/unwashed. The garment is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. The denim will shrink to tagged size after an initial cold soak.
We recommend this usual protocol before wear:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
- Washing machine spin dry.
- Line dry. (No heat dryer)
I opted for a W32 for a comfortable fit. I hemmed my pair to my preferred length with a traditional 1¾ fold. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
CARE:
Wash when necessary, using appropriate methods pertaining to premium denim.
We recommend turning garment inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using a heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, as the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
 US Coast Guards in a conversation with German POWs, Normandy France, 1944 (photo © U.S. National Archives)   
Mister Freedom® modified “Shipyard Chinos” shorts.
Made in USA.
In an effort to make new with the old, a rather sustainable approach to consumerism, here is a Spring 2018 twist on our previously-released “Shipyard Chinos”.
Originally issued as part of our “American Sportswear NOS” Fall 2011 capsule collection, the harbinger of our “The Sportsman“on-going catalog, these utility pants have been customized into summer-weight bermudas with a handy side pocket.
The original pattern was inspired by vintage work pants and naval dungarees and features a wrap-leg construction, patch pockets and adjustable cinch-back. Along with the recently-made available Boonie Utes, these modified Shipyard Chinos shorts are now beefing-up our funky fresh, colorful, eclectic and sexy MF® Shorts section. Everything for the stylish gentleman with an urge to pay tribute to Tom Selleck.
The MF® Shipyard Chinos shorts are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and made in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
FABRICS: 100% cotton tightly woven chino twill, milled in Japan. Dry hand, light ounce.
Three colors available, khaki, brown, navy.
SPECS:
* An original Mister Freedom® pattern inspired by vintage work pants and naval dungarees.
* Modified into above-the-knee bermudas.
* Added side pocket.
* Front patch pockets secured in the waist band, copper rivet reinforced.
* Wrap leg construction (no side seam).
* Buckle-back adjustable strap with vintage French NOS metal buckle.
* Crotch rivet.
* Rear cotton cloth patch for custom stenciling, concealed behind back strap.
* Metal donut crest buttons for waist and fly, painted black.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Printed MF® mfsc label.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Shipyard Chinos shorts come raw/unwashed, unless specified.
They will shrink to tagged size after a cold rinse and line dry. Comfortable fit. I opted for a Size 30. Could go to 32 for a more roomy silhouette and cinch the waist. The silhouette is according to personal preferences, but i don’t recommend wearing those chinos tight. If you are a true waist 31, you should fit in a waist 30 in the shipyard chinos.
This modified shorts version of the Shipyard Chinos is cut above the knee. Results may vary according to your ratio waist/height and silhouette.
Refer to chart for measurements.
CHART
Available Raw/unwashed (unless otherwise specified on the MF® webstore)
Sizes Limited availability
W 28
W 30
W 32
W 34
W 36
W 38
Retail $229.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018
Mister Freedom® mfsc Naval Chinos, Type No.266ic, cotton/linen indigo chambray issue.
Spring 2018 mfsc “SURPLUS” catalog.
Made in Japan
Our popular “mfsc Naval Chinos” are back this Spring!
These classic trousers are a nod to the “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” capsule collection of 2008, dating back to the earliest collaboration with our Japanese friends from Sugar Cane Co. With a pattern inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, we initially issued them in a combination of subtly contrasting mil-specs khaki chino twills under the “Naval Chinos Type No.266” moniker. An edited version called Type II was released in 2010.
For our smashing 2016 Ten Year Anniversary, two new models were cut, one in a dark indigo canvas and the other in a khaki chino twill, both under “Naval Chinos Type No.266ac”.
We are releasing a very distinct version for Spring 2018, and are excited to introduce a luxurious vintage-inspired fabric new to our catalog. This fine indigo selvedge chambray, a slubby tightly-woven and crispy blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen, was exclusively milled for mfsc in Japan. Quite reminiscent of the 1950’s French Marine Nationale utility uniform fabric that had inspired our Sea Hunt Spring 2014 Crew Pants (see original blog post here), this 2018 textile features a darker and more of a reddish indigo hue, a denser weave, and a selvedge with white/red stripe ID.
The leg construction is a flat-felled seam type, same as vintage army chinos, so we played with the fabric selvedge by displaying it in the facing of the five pockets (front slash, rear welt and watch pocket.)
Our mfsc Naval Chinos feature a vintage silhouette, mid rise, with somewhat of a classic leg, neither slim nor baggy. The light-weight crisp chambray fabric makes them a stylish addition to one’s summer wardrobe, easy to pair with solid Skivvies, stripeys, Saint-Malo, …, or plain button down shirts. The indigo chambray will age gracefully with repeat wear/wash cycles, and we look forward seeing some outstanding worn specimen down the line!
The MF® “Type No.266ac” mfsc Naval Chinos, cotton/linen indigo chambray, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
A fine, tightly-woven and crispy blend of 85% cotton and 15% linen indigo chambray, slubby texture, white/red stripe selvedge ID, milled Japan.
Pocket bags and waist band are made from 100% cotton woven stripe ticking, milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers.
* Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Button fly, featuring brown corozo wood buttons.
* Thin trousers-style belt-loops.
* Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing.
* Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Woven mfsc “Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband.
* Made in Japan, designed in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
The Type 266ic Naval Chinos, indigo chambray, come raw/unwashed, and will shrink to tagged size after an initial soak. We recommend a 30-40mn cold soak with occasional hand agitation, spin dry, hang dry. These are true-to-size, and I wear a comfortable Waist 32, my usual size in mfsc trousers.
Please refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements, reflecting above method.
CARE:
Wash when needed. We recommend washing on delicate cycle/cold water/eco-friendly detergent. Turning the trousers inside out will help avoid marbling. Line dry.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.
Retail: $349.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
Mister Freedom® Sportsman Chinos, New Old Stock Khaki HBT
Sportsman Catalog, Spring 2017.
Made in USA
We pulled out the pattern of our original 2013 Sportsman Chinos from the vaults, previously issued in Beach Chino Twill, Indigo cotton-linen Métisse, OD Mil-Specs Cotton Sateen, …, to release a Spring 2017 version in a handsome recently-acquired New Old Stock khaki twill with a fine herringbone weave.
Unlike the slender 1960’s silhouette of the Mister Freedom® Continental Trousers series, the Sportsman Chinos pattern features a fuller leg, reminiscent of vintage 1940’s-50’s cotton twill work pants.
For the pocket bags, we opted for a fancy NOS woven striped cotton twill, of EU origin.
NOTE: Above photos show a hemmed pair, with a simple traditional 1½ inch fold. Production comes un-hemmed, with an open/overlocked bottom, for your personal cuffing preference.
Also featured, veg-tan VEB belt crafted by the one-and-only John ‘Vintage Engineer Boots‘ V.
The Sportsman Chinos are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California, USA, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, inspired by vintage 1940’s-50’s cotton twill work pants.
FABRIC:
Khaki herringbone twill, light weight, New Old Stock, 100% cotton, Country of Origin unknown.
Pocket bags: NOS woven striped twill, 100% cotton milled in EU.
DETAILS:
* Relaxed vintage silhouette and fit.
* Button fly, brown corozo wood buttons.
* Flat-felled side seams.
* Welt-type rear pockets.
* Original combo belt loops, wide & narrow.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, French vintage NOS metal slide buckle.
* New Old Stock 100% cotton twill pocket bags, green woven stripe.
* Watch pocket.
* 100% cotton thread construction, flat felled seams, green inside chainstich “MF® Sportsman” signature.
* Crotch gusset.
* MF® “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on waist band, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
The ‘Sportsman Chinos’ are sold RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size.
We recommend an initial cold wash, delicate cycle, and line dry. These trousers are true-to-size, with a ‘forgiving’ waist, adjustable via the rear cinch. Go for your usual size in mfsc garments, but consider that the full leg and higher rise will provide an old school vintage work pants silhouette. These will not work for the tight pants contemporary fashionista.
With a generous inseam, the overlocked leg opening is left open to your cuffing preference. I opted for a 1½ inch fold, regular single needle machine stitch, flood length.
Please refer to the size chart for raw/rinsed measurements.
CARE:
These cotton twill pants are low-maintenance. Machine wash when needed, cold/warm water, delicate cycle, eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry or tumble dry.
Available RAW/unwashed.
Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Open inseam: 36~37 inches (rinsed)
RETAIL $289.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2017
 Photo courtesy Tadashi Tawarayama (Clutch Magazine Japan) Mister Freedom® Naval Chinos, Type No.266ac, mil-specs Khaki Chino Twill issue.
Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection
Made in Japan
A nod to our early collaborating days with Sugar Cane Co, specifically the “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” capsule collection of 2008, we are issuing a version of our original “Naval Chinos” this Fall. With a pattern inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, this Ten Year Anniversary edition comes in two very distinct options, the recently-released indigo canvas version, and a version similar to the original issue, a long-awaited new khaki chino twill model. Please note that these are military-inspired chinos, a totally different pattern from our casual Sportsman chinos and dressier Continental trousers.
As we did with our 2008 original issue, we are mixing two types of cotton military chino twills, produced by our friends at Buzz Rickson’s, US Army, US Army Air Force, US Air Force, and US Navy vintage mil-specs replica experts. Both twills feature the same 8.2 Oz. weight, but contrast noticeably in color. Our original design approach in mixing them was to emanate wartime production crunch, when two different dye lots were at times cut and sewn into one production run. Vintage clothing aficionados will be familiar with such specimen, quite rare today.
Our ‘Naval Chinos’ also stand out from the contrasting navy blue stitching. With repeat wash/wear, these color contrasts will gradually fade into an attractive, unique and subtlety-nuanced blend.
One might consider our tricked-out colorful chinos ‘too weird’ to wear, but, if you’re reading this, chances are you are already dressed weird, according to the guy sitting next to you on the plane.
?✌?
The MF® “Type MFSC No.266ac” Naval Chinos, Khaki Chino Twill issue, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC:
Original mix of two dye-lot shades of period mil-specs khaki chino twills, 100% cotton, 8.2 Oz., milled in Japan for Buzz Rickson’s. The initial fabric sheen is due to the specific milling and finishing process, and will rapidly subside with normal wash/wear cycles.
Pocket bags and waist band are made from 100% cotton woven stripe ticking, milled in Japan.
SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers.
* Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Button fly.
* Waist closure and fly: brown corrozo wood buttons.
* Front slash pockets and back welt pockets featuring arcuate decorative stitching.
* Watch pocket.
* Double MF® woven labeling on inside waist band.
* Concealed cloth label for custom markings on lower leg, French Navy style.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Navy blue contrast 100% cotton stitching.
* Made in Japan, designed in USA, worn around the World.
SIZING/FIT:
The Type MFSC 266ac Naval Chinos in khaki twill come raw/unwashed/loomstate, and the fabric is pretty much sanforized.
We recommend an initial 30-40mn cold soak with occasional hand agitation, then spin dry cycle. Hang dry.
The tagged size roughly corresponds to sizing after this soaking process. I wear a comfortable Waist 32 in these chinos. No need to size up or down from your actual measured waist size.
Please note that, due to the use of 100% cotton stitching and 100% cotton pocketing, slight shrinkage, seam roping and torquing might be obtained with the use of hot water and normal washing machine wash cycle. The true intended fit and pattern of these trousers has been adjusted according to a cold water rinse and low-heat tumble dry process.
Our khaki Naval Chinos feature a vintage silhouette, mid rise, with somewhat of a classic leg, neither slim nor baggy.
Refer to chart for soaked/line dry measurements.
CHART
CARE:
These trousers should be low maintenance. We recommend a normal wash cycle with cold or warm water and eco-friendly detergent. Turning the trousers inside out will help avoid marbling. Line dry.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.
Retail $329.95
Soon available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2016
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