Mister Freedom® “Liquette Tzigane”, indigo cotton/wool herringbone twill. GYPSY BLUES mfsc collection Fall 2017. Made in Japan.
The grand finale of our Hot Jazz opus, the mfsc “Gypsy Blues” 2017 collection, a venture into the world of ‘swing manouche‘, wraps-up with a Fall iteration of the Liquette Tzigane. The pattern of this garment is inspired by several vintage 1920’s-30’s fancy shirt specimen, twisted à-la MF®.
Liquette is an old French argot (slang) term designating a man’s shirt, as-in the recently released Liquette Manouche. The word Tzigane (or Tsigane) can be used to designate a person of Eastern European Romani ancestry, although the term hints at a specific culture within the Gypsy world (often with a musical connotation) rather than a geographic origin. Sounds of lamenting violins playing “Les Yeux Noirs” around the campfire, with a string of caravans in the background, come to mind.
Initially released in a fine indigo calico discharge-printed cotton popeline, our Spring 2017 take on the vintage Hungarian folk textile family called Kékfestés, the colder-months’ counterpart of the Liquette Tzigane comes in a 9.5 Oz. indigo yarn-dyed cotton-wool blend. With the 70% cotton content, this handsome fabric feels quite ‘dry’ to the touch, without any itchiness. It has a very dark navy blue tone, anecdotally reminiscent of vintage US Navy wool CPO shirts.
The Liquette Tzigane indigo HBT is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar cane Co.
Musical Note: I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Samy Daussat this summer, during the 2017 Los Angeles Django Festival. A knowledgeable Gypsy Jazz aficionado and talented guitar player, Samy is also blessed with teaching skills. Attendees to his master class held during the two-day event attested to that.
For those interested in this traditional Gypsy Swing style of playing guitar, Samy does a great job at deciphering and making sense of some of the specifics of Django Reinhardt’s improvising genius. His YouTube tutorials are in French, but any international guitar slinger with a Hot Club de France inclination will get the point. And classes are free!
The 2017 LA Django Festival was organized by Mr. Tommy Davy, himself expert on everything manouche guitar-related and a skilled musician. For vintage Selmer-Maccaferri-type guitar urges, browse through Tommy’s inventory of Django-style goodness, and listen to his own recorded musical prowess. Tommy also draws on traditional gypsy folk music to fuel his Trio Dinicu slavic and Tzigane-flavored repertoire.
And, to dismiss the cliche that all that jazz is just a dude thing, do check out what Christelle Caillot is bringing to the manouche guitar table.
SPECS: FABRIC: 9.5 Oz. cotton-wool blend, indigo yarn-dyed herringbone twill weave. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS: * Inspired by 1920’s-1930’s fancy shirting. * Versatile collar pattern with double button tab, fashionable as a classic open collar, cutaway style or high-buttoned. * Original MF® pocketing (from the 2012 MF® Prairie Shirt). * Indigo poplin button placket facing. * Early shirting curvy tails. * Side gussets. * Corozo wood buttons, indigo blue color. * Shirred back yoke and cuffs. * High-count stitching, early shirting narrow chainstitch construction. * Original mfsc Gypsy Blues woven rayon label. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® Liquette Tzigane indigo HBT comes raw/unwashed. Follow the usual initial method before wearing: cold soak for 30mn, spin dry and line dry. Unlike its Spring 2017 Kékfestés version for which we advised to size-up, the Liquette Tzigane indigo cotton-wool HBT is pretty much true to size, and actually features a rather generous fit allowing winter layering. I opted for a size Medium in this shirt, with a comfortable fit when worn with a classic chambray shirt, Saint-Malo jersey etc…
Please refer to chart to figure out which size works for you. “Rinsed” means soaked for 30mn in cold water, spin dry and hang dry. When in doubt, email email@example.com for sizing advice.
CARE: This garment is made from is a cotton-wool blend fabric. Do not wash in hot water or boil to avoid excessive shrinkage and damage to the fabric. Machine wash on delicate when needed, cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Available raw/unwashed. Sizes Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large Retail: $349.95
Mister Freedom® NIXON Shirt, printed corduroy. “Surplus” catalog mfsc FW 2017. Made in Japan.
This is the fourth addition to our MF® “SURPLUS” Fall 2017 line-up, an on-going concept consisting of timeless classics given a twist à-la MF®, expertly manufactured in Japan by our long-time friends and partners at Toyo Enterprises. The MF® “SURPLUS” collection is the ethically-made-overseas companion of our popular all-made-in-USA “Sportsman” catalog.
For the office anecdote-inclined, we used to refer to this pattern as the ‘Dick Shirt’ during R&D, but eventually settled on ‘Nixon’ for the official release, for obvious reasons.
The pattern of our ‘Nixon’ shirt is largely inspired by an original 1950’s vintage “Roomy Richard” chambray work shirt, a now-defunct American workwear label established in the late 1920’s. The main appeal of that vintage piece was for us the tricky double-layer ‘cigarette’ chest pocket pattern, somewhat reminiscent of the famous Big Yank pocket, familiar to all vintage clothing aficionados. That pocket was designed to keep the worker’s cigarette pack dry.
Original 1940’s vintage “Roomy Richard” work shirt packaging.
If most of us today know better than to donate towards the cause of tobacco companies by purchasing their wares, the practical little pocket can still be used as double storage for, say, both an iPhone and a public transportation ticket/smart card. Beside this fancy characteristic, our Nixon shirt features a chin-strap, triple stitch construction and side gussets, all classic attributes of old-school vintage work shirts.
The fabric we opted for is a 16 wale all-cotton corduroy, discharge-printed with a traditional plaid pattern typical of 1940’s-1950’s vintage outdoor gear, mimicking the appearance of woven checks. Because of the limited bleed-through printing, the reverse of the fabric displays the solid color of the base fabric, not unlike our Sportsman printed Camp Flannel Shirt from 2013. This printed corduroy was exclusively milled for mfsc in Japan, and is released for Fall 2017 in two color options, red plaid and blue plaid.
The Nixon Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: A 16 wale all-cotton corduroy, discharge-printed with a traditional plaid pattern. Milled and printed in Japan.
Two color options, blue and red.
DETAILS: * A pattern inspired by a 1950’s “Roomy Richard” chambray, and other vintage work shirts. * Trim silhouette. * Fancy double-layer left chest pocket, known as “cigarette pocket”. * Corozo wood buttons. * Chin strap, featuring vintage-style mfsc-embossed metal buttons. * Triple stitch construction. * Side gussets. * Tonal stitching. * Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven label. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The Mister Freedom® printed corduroy Nixon Shirt comes raw/unwashed. We recommend an initial cold soak/rinse and line dry. The shirt will shrink to tagged size. This garment is true-to-size. I wear a Medium, my usual size in mfsc shirting. The fit is quite trim, with a tapered waist for a slim silhouette. Refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements, post cold soak/line dry.
CARE: Launder when needed. Machine-wash on delicate cycle, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent, line dry.
Available raw (un-washed) Sizes Small Medium Large X-Large XX-Large
With the Mister Freedom® M-17 Parka, now you too can look really creepy.
Mister Freedom® “M-17 Parka”, indigo-dyed jungle cloth. MF® “SURPLUS” mfsc Fall 2017. Made in Japan.
This is the third addition to our MF® “SURPLUS” Fall 2017 line-up, an on-going concept consisting of timeless classics given a twist à-la MF®, expertly manufactured in Japan by our long-time friends and partners at Toyo Enterprises. Basically, the MF® “SURPLUS” collection is the ethically-made-overseas companion of our popular all-made-in-USA “Sportsman” catalog. After tripping to the moon with the smashing Apollo ’69 Sukajan, after cruising in style down the 101 with the indigo Jungle Riders, here is a number for upcoming foul weather days.
Design-wise, we adapted the pattern of a vintage US Air Force-issued M-47 “Overcoat, Parka Type”, molding it into a practical, unlined civvy garment, blending military, nautical and utilitarian outdoorsy vibes. Having turned the classic Olive Drab 1947 model into a 2017 garment, we simply named it “M-17 Parka”.
The choice of indigo-dyed jungle cloth for the shell became obvious after witnessing how this handsome fabric evolves overtime, with normal wear and exposure to the elements. Before the recently-released Jungle Riders, this same fabric was featured on two MF® oldies, the Mulholland Master and Blouson de Quart of our 2016 tenth Anniversary collection. Promising evo shots should be emerging on the social media in a few winters…
We opted for green contrasting trim accents, with the web belt, stitching, 1940’s-style Mil-Specs crown zipper tape, and olive corrozzo buttons. The hand-warming slash pockets feature beige corduroy pocket bags, a reference to vintage WW2 USN peacoats.
Those into waxing their gear for weatherproofing, or for the rugged aesthetics, can do so with Otter Wax or natural bees wax. Do consider that this would not only be a no-turning-back commitment, but a real endeavor considering the size of the fabric panels to be waxed… I will personally leave my M-17 in its original condition and let the indigo do its thing for a while. Then again I live in Southern California, where rains only briefly interfere with drought alerts…
The “M-17 Parka” is re-designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: FABRIC: A tightly woven 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, 100% cotton grosgrain, period mil-specs, the notorious shell fabric of 1940’s USN deck jackets, dyed to a deep and dark indigo shade. Milled and indigo-dyed in small batches in Japan.
DETAILS: * Inspired by the classic olive drab US Air Force-issued M-47 “Overcoat, Parka Type”. * Unlined body. * Hood lined with fine indigo-dyed cotton popeline. * Heavy-duty 1940’s-style US military spring-loaded “CROWN” zipper replica. * Two large patch pockets with flap closure, and two hand-warming slash pockets featuring beige corduroy bags. * Corrozzo wood buttons. * OD Cotton web belt, removable, featuring an authentic made-in-USA USMC Mil. Specs. powder-coated metal buckle. * Inside OD cotton tape piping, no open/overlocked seams. * Olive green contrast stitching. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The Mister Freedom® M-17 Parka comes raw/unwashed and we recommend an initial 30mn cold soak, spin dry and hang dry. I opted for a comfortable size Medium, my usual size in mfsc jackets, anticipating layering it with other garments comes winter. Note that I could fit into a size Small with a light shirt, slimmer silhouette but no layering possible.
DISCLAIMER: Color crocking (temporarily bleeding onto other lighter-colored textiles) is to be expected and will temporarily ‘stain’ light color garments worn as under layers. Indigo rub-off should wash-off eventually. However, because it is unlined, do not wear a white shirt or light color jacket directly under the M-17 Parka.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/cold soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
CARE When cleaning is required, turn inside out, unzipped and unbuttoned, and hand wash in cold water with mild eco-friendly detergent designed for delicate fabrics. Expect heavy indigo crocking is to be expected, wash separately from all other garment. Due to the bulkiness of this garment, and its weight when soaked, we do not recommend using a home washing machine. This will potentially ruin both the M-17 Parka and your washing machine. Additionally, excessive and unnecessary agitation will leave unattractive marbling marks, even if the garment is turned inside out. Do not use a heat dryer, hang dry instead.
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY. Sizes Small
XX-Large Retail $899.95
The pattern of our classic vest is inspired by 1910’s-1930’s French Gentlemen’ waistcoats. The shawl lapel, fine sateen back, cinch back strap and fancy lining make for a choice addition to the discerning gadjo‘s closet. We took the dandy vibe a notch down by donning our gilet a set of donut-shape metal buttons as front closure, hardware parts usually reserved for vintage utility garments. For this Fall edition, we opted for cotton moleskin, a staple of vintage French workwear fabrics. A small batch was milled in Japan from an antique textile swatch. We chose a rich sienna brown color, with low colorfast properties. Some of the photos feature a once-cold-soaked specimen, next to a fully washed and worn sample, for an idea of fabric evolution.
If black and navy blue are typical colors of old-school French workwear, brown and cream moleskin garments were quite popular with the Gardians of Camargue, the gritty Provençal cowboys dreamed-up by the legendary Old-West-obsessed Folco de Baroncelli in the early 1900’s. In the old days, these famed horsemen of the delta of the Rhone, Southern France, typically wore moleskine boot-cut riding pants, with the characteristic contrast piping running down the leg seam. A matching moleskin vest, flamboyant plaid or printed cotton shirt, low-crown western-style hat, and a pair of Camarguaises (local traditional rough-out leather boots) often completed these work outfits. (For the commun thread between Gardians and our Gypsy Blues story, Camargue’s most iconic commune is Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer, a notorious annual pilgrimage destination for Gypsies coming from the four corners of Europe.)
Familiar to the European vintage clothing aficionado, French waistcoats from the 1920’s-30’s typically feature a stern shell (often black wool serge) and an unusual inner lining (fancy printed fabric probably left-over from a custom shirting project). It is not uncommon to come across such tailor-made vintage specimen with a formal appearance and an unusual inner lining.
Digging through the archives, we found limited NOS yardages of forgotten textile goodness from past mfsc collections, and have used then as linings on all iterations of the Gilet Gadjo. The fancy off-white calico-print cotton sateen twill featured on the moleskin version was originally milled for our 2011 Les Apaches collection, but was never used. Indigo-dyed cotton poplin inner panels complete the lining. A classic amber brown cotton sateen back adds to the elegant vintage vibe.
The Gilet Gadjo is designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE Co.
SPECS: FABRICS: * Front panels: 100% cotton moleskin, 8.5 Oz., sienna brown color with low colorfast properties. Milled in Japan. * Back panel: 100% cotton sateen back, amber brown color. * Inside lining: Fancy 100% cotton off-white sateen twill with vintage-style calico-print, accented with contrast indigo-dyed poplin panels.
DETAILS: * Original mfsc pattern inspired by fancy 1910’s-30’s European tailor-made Gentlemen’ waistcoats. * Elegant and traditional silhouette, to compliment higher-waisted trousers or blue jeans. * Shawl lapel. * Chest darts and early waistcoat gussets and paneling. * Fancy calico-print off-white cotton sateen inner lining. * Sateen back, amber brown color. * Cinch back strap, with vintage-style metal prong buckle, removable for washing. * Three welt pockets. * Utilitarian unmarked ‘donut’ metal brass buttons. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The Gilet Gadjo moleskin comes raw/unwashed. We recommend the usual method, initial cold soak, spin dry and line dry. If the general consensus was to size down on the Spring 2017 run of this pattern, both covert and HBT cotton/linen editions, this moleskin version is rather true to size. I wear a fitted 36 in covert and HBT, and a fitted 38 in moleskin (rinsed/line dry).
Please refer to chart to figure which size works for you. Take your favorite waistcoat, measure it laying flat (as the chart’s b/w photo suggests), and see which size/measurements combo most-closely matches. If confused, email firstname.lastname@example.org.
CARE: We recommend hand washing or machine wash on gentle/delicate cycle. Cold water, eco-friendly detergent, spin dry and line dry. DO NOT launder on “Heavy Wash” setting, as the metal buttons might get snagged and damage the garment. REMOVE metal prong buckle from the back strap before laundering, it is fastened by a button. The sienna brown moleskin fabric intentionally boasts low colorfast properties, and will lose its original sheen after a few wash/wear cycles. It will fade quite rapidly, according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available raw/unwashed. Sizes 36 Small 38 Medium 40 Large 42 X-Large 44 XX-Large Retail: $379.95