Frogsville « CHRISTOPHELOIRON®

Mister Freedom® “One-Zero (1-0) Jacket”, mfsc SS2023 “Frogsville x Saigon Classified” collection. Made in Japan

MF® 1-0 (One-Zero) Smock, black Mil-Specs BR nylon & French Lizard Camo cotton canvas.
SS2023 mfsc “Frogsville x Saigon CLASSIFIED” collection.
Made in Japan.

SS2023 “Frogsville x Saigon CLASSIFIED”, the story:
This mfsc season blends two familiar original Mister Freedom® concepts, FROGSVILLE and an old flame, Saigon Cowboy.

Our FROGSVILLE saga is an original stylistic venture freely inspired by Vietnam-era US combat diver imagery, military rigger-made garments and period custom local tailor-made clothes, all thrown in the Mister Freedom® blender, where we translated 1940s-1970s references and vintage influences into modern day wearables.
This season, we are bringing in some 1950s French Indochina vibe to the Frogsville mix, and even adding a covert operation MACV-SOG twist!

For those into Military History, intel on that twist – i.e. the secret war happening “across the fence” in South East Asia (1964~1972) – was eventually declassified in the 1980s, and the existence and deeds of SOG unveiled. With the sworn-to-secrecy agreements signed by all SOG members lifted, testimonies of survivors (casualty rate was known to be “100%”) and proper official acknowledgment of the heroic actions of those units were finally made possible. SOG stories even made it to the video game market… no comment on that.

So, grab the popcorn, click here, here (amazing writing skills!), or here, …, and enjoy the rabbit hole.

For facts and visuals, check out author John Plaster’s books, and collector Jason Hardy’s series of well-documented printed photo essays, in coffee table book format. Listen to John Stryker Meyer’s Sogcast for real in the field stories, from the horses’ mouthes. And, of course, Nick Brokhausen‘s mandatory and hysterical “We Few” and “Whispers In The Tall Grass“.

As per MF® SOP, no replicas for us in this SS2023 line up, just (re)imagined garments that “might have been”, with the usual grain of salt and design liberties we like to take with the past.
Each pieces is easily workable into any classic wardrobe.

MF® ONE-ZERO Smock, the inspiration:

On this garment, we are taking design cues and visuals from original One-Zero jackets, as sported by SOG (Studies and Observations Group) Recon Team leaders (1-0, pronounced one-zero) during the Vietnam conflict. On recon missions, a team leader would be assisted by a 1-1 (one-one, American radio operator), a 1-2 (one-two, the third American), and a highly-skilled and combat-seasoned selection of 9-10 indigenous troops (mostly of the Montagnards tribe, or “Yards”, also affectionately referred to as “the little people” by their tall American counterparts.)

Back on point. Three basic types of these black nylon jackets apparently exist (two pull-over front styles, and one full-button style), all developed and designed by legendary Deputy Chief Ben Baker at his CISO (Counter-Insurgency Support Office) supply operation, based on the island of Okinawa, Japan (1963-?), where custom sterile (unmarked, unlabeled and untraceable) gear such as rucksacks, Jungle Boots (the Okinawa Boot that influenced our MF® Trooper design), black pajamas (Uncle Charles’ favorite), sweaters, knives, …, were produced in total secrecy.

CISO 1-0 jackets were initially conceived as light rain jackets to be worn on ops, but were deemed too noisy in the bush and ended up being mostly worn around camp as “party jackets”, with sewn-on unit patches, custom embroideries and morale patches. Needless to say, originals are ultra rare, and I’ve never seen one. To prevent a plethora of knock-offs from flooding the militaria market, collectors are reluctant – and rightfully so – to publish detailed photos of the front, back and inside of those garments. This helps keep fakes out of private collections.

The MF® 1-0 only borrows the name and vibe of CISO 1-0 jackets. Instead of an un-inspired attempt at replicating an original verbatim, or using a civilian sport windbreaker pattern (which the originals were based on), we decided to dissect a basic Belgium Paratrooper 1955 jump smock (a garment with roots in the British paratrooper Denison smocks of WW2), and then imagined the design of what a plausible fourth type 1-0 jacket could have looked like.

We heavily tweaked the smock pattern in order to make it work for our project. We removed the now-useless “beaver tail” (typical paratrooper jacket detail, only useful if you plan to jump off planes), re-adjusted pocket configuration for better functionality, substituted the half-zip with a six brass snaps closure, moved the cinch tabs to the natural waistline, adjusted the length to sit just below the natural waist, etc…

We left the jacket unlined, with all clean seams, another construction challenge. We opted for an inside shoulder yoke cut from contrasting ERDL camo, for that “use whatever fabric is at hand” local tailor or rigger vibe.

The resulting garment features a very intricate construction/design, another “tour de force” from pattern extraordinaire Fukutomi Sensei of Toyo Enterprises.

The MF® 1-0 jacket is available in two distinct fabric options:

The Black nylon version is obviously a direct nod at the vibe of the originals, without the unit patches, featuring a heavy 2×2 100% nylon twill, same shell fabric grade as BR’s (Buzz Rickson’s) vintage Mil-Specs USAF replica flight jackets.
This version is a functional pull-over style wind-proof jacket, for the outdoors, all kinds of sporting activities or just for looking ridiculously fabulous.

The Lizard (or Lezard) camo version, printed canvas fabric, 100% cotton, is a nod to 1950s French TAP (Troupes Aéroportées), previously mentioned with the 2015 release of the MF® TAP Lezard “Vanden” Jacket.
Note: This disruptive pattern is our mfsc interpretation of the classic French TAP47 “Lizard” camouflage (aka “Lézzard” or “Léopard” as the French call it), popular during the 1950s Algerian War as the fabric of choice for French Paratroopers (TAP).
Introduced in Sept. 1950 and inspired by WW2 field-tested British Denison smock camouflage (source: “Paras Français Algérie 1954-1962”, Histoire & Collection ISBN: 978-2-35250-164-0), many different versions of the Lizard camo exist, not unlike its Tiger Stripes American successor. A lot of intel in this thread.
We opted for the TAP47 pattern (tan/khaki background with green and brown horizontal brush strokes, adapted for tropical theater as opposed to the darker/greener version of the European ETO), as used for M51-M56 tents.

Our source fabric is a genuine vintage NOS French M1956 canvas quarter-shelter tent. After much internal debating, we opted for a plain weave canvas base this time, as opposed to the HBT of our previously-released Lézard printed fabric from 2015.

This lizard camo version is a functional outdoor pull-over style jacket, for the outdoors, for standing out in urban jungles, and for looking equally ridiculously fabulous.

The MF® 1-0 (One-Zero) Jacket is designed in California by MisterFreedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRICS:
Two options:
1) Heavy 2×2 100% nylon twill, black, as featured on BR’s (Buzz Rickson’s) vintage Mil-Specs USAF replica flight jackets.
Inside shoulder yoke: 100% cotton ERDL camo ripstop.

2) French Lizard camo, 100% cotton canvas, about 10 Oz. Printed TAP47 pattern, tan/khaki background with minimal bleed-through (= the reverse of the fabric is solid tan)
Inside shoulder yoke: 100% cotton ERDL camo ripstop.

PATTERN:
* Style inspired by MACV-SOG 1-0 Recon Team leaders camp jackets.
* Garment pattern inspired by a vintage 1955 Belgium paratrooper jump smock, heavily edited.
* Re-fit “bat sleeve” arm pattern.
* Jacket length cut to sit just below the natural waist.
* Pull-over pattern, front snap closure.
* 6-snap front closure high neck rolls down for wind protection when fully snapped.
* Brass snaps for Lizard version, black-painted for nylon version.
* Six functional pockets: two front bottom patch pockets, two rear “map” patch pockets, two concealed chest pocket bags.
* Waist side cinch tabs, tripe snaps, with inside fabric reinforcement patches.
* Wrist cinch tabs, double buttons.
* Underarm ventilation stitched eyelets.
* Unlined, with ERDL camo shoulder yoke layering.
* OD HBT tape pocket opening inside reinforcements.
* All clean-seam “caballo” construction.
* Original mfsc Frogsville woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
Both fabric options of the MF® 1-0 (One-Zero) Jacket come unwashed and are true-to-size after a cold rinse/machine spin dry/line dry.
We recommend the following simple initial process.

Cold soak garment for about 30mn in bathtub or washing machine, with occasional hand agitation.
Spin dry (spinning cycle) if using a washing machine.
Line dry/drip dry.

I’m about 5’7 / 145 Lbs and opted for a SMALL, for a comfortable and fit silhouette that matches my own subjective aesthetics.

CARE:
Machine wash (both canvas and nylon versions) on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Using a heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage and damage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane msfc SS2023 LookBook Preview!

Mister Freedom® x SugarCane Co SS2023 “FROGSVILLE x SAIGON” collection preview

Can I go home already?

MF® Swabbies Modified, Khaki HBT ©202

Mister Freedom® x SugarCane Co SS2023 Sportsman catalog additions

: MF® RB canvas ©2023

Salut les filles

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co mfsc SS2023 Preview:

Dear Friends,

Hope this finds you well, healthy, and in good spirits.

Here is a preview of our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane (mfsc) SS2023 collaboration, for your consideration. Two main groupings this season, “FROGSVILLE x SAIGON CLASSIFIED” made in Japan, and “SPORTSMAN” made in USA.

This first grouping blends two familiar original Mister Freedom® concepts, FROGSVILLE and Saigon Cowboy.

Our FROGSVILLE saga is an original stylistic venture freely inspired by Vietnam-era US combat diver imagery, military rigger-made garments and period custom local tailor-made clothes, all thrown in the Mister Freedom® blender, where we translate 1940s-1970s references and vintage influences into modern day wearables.
This season, we are bringing in some 1950s French Indochina vibe from Saigon Cowboy to the Frogsville mix, and even adding a covert operation MACV-SOG twist!

For those into Military History, intel on that “twist” – i.e. the secret war happening “across the fence” in South East Asia (1964-1972) – was eventually declassified in the 1980s, and the existence and deeds of SOG unveiled. With the sworn-to-secrecy agreements signed by all SOG members lifted, testimonies of survivors (casualty rate was known to be “100%”) and proper official acknowledgment of the heroic actions of those units was finally possible. SOG stories even made it to the video game market…

So, grab the popcorn, click here, here, or here, …, and enjoy the rabbit hole.

For facts and visuals, check out author John Plaster’s books, and collector Jason Hardy’s series of well-documented printed photo essays, in coffee table book format.

As per MF® SOP, no replicas for us in this SS2023 line up, just (re)imagined garments that “might have been”, with the usual grain of salt and design liberties we like to take with the past. Each pieces is easily workable into any classic wardrobe.

This SS2023 chapter of “FROGSVILLE x SAIGON Classified” consists of:

1) ONE-ZERO Smock (Japan):
Inspiration:
Taking design cues from One-Zero jackets, as worn by SOG (Studies and Observations Group) Team leaders (1-0) in Vietnam (= “across the fence”, ie Cambodia and Laos, where the US was not supposed to run ops.) Initially designed as sterile (= unlabeled and unidentifiable) black nylon rain jackets for operations, they were deemed too noisy in the bush and mostly worn around camp. For our “fictitious” version, and rather than using an (ultra rare) original or civilian windbreaker pattern, we heavily modified the pattern of a Belgium Paratrooper 1955 jump smock and combined it with what a 1-0 jacket could have looked like.
Fabric options:
a) Lizard camo, printed canvas fabric, 100% cotton.
Note: This is our mfsc interpretation of the classic French TAP47 “Lizard” camouflage (aka “Lézzard” , “Lézard” or “Léopard” as the French confusingly call it), popular during the 1950s Algerian War as the camo of choice for French Paratroopers (TAP = Troupes Aéro Portées).
Introduced in Sept. 1950 and inspired by WW2 field-tested British Denison smock camouflage (source: “Paras Français Algérie 1954-1962”, Histoire & Collection ISBN: 978-2-35250-164-0), many different versions of the Lizard exist, not unlike its Tiger Stripes American successor.
We opted for the TAP47 pattern (tan/khaki background with green and brown horizontal brush strokes, adapted for tropical theater as opposed to the darker/greener version of the European ETO), as used for M51-M56 tents.
Our source fabric was a genuine vintage NOS French M1956 canvas quarter-shelter tent.
b) Black nylon, BR (Buzz Rickson’s) vintage Mil-Specs grade.

2) BOONIE Hat “Stingy” brim (Japan):
Inspiration:
In-country made bush hat, using left over fabric recycled for used uniforms and gear (tiger stripes, ERDL etc), as worn by elite Special Forces in Vietnam. SOG Teams would often train off the regulation wide-brim jungle hats, in order to have a better peripheral vision on covert ops in the bush.
Fabric:
Lizard camo.

3) SCUBA Trunks (Japan):
Inspiration:
Our classic UDT swim shorts revisited pattern, rigger-made.
Added inside pocket for practicality. Non-regulation issue, in-country style.
Fabric options:
a) Lizard camo.
b) OG-107 sateen, 100% cotton.
c) SC “Okinawa” Denim, selvedge, 11 Oz.

4) SNIPES Shirt (Japan):
Inspiration:
Special release of our N-3 shirt inspired pattern. Non-regulation issue, in-country style.
Fabric:
Indigo HBT denim.

5) SWABBIES, Modified (Japan):
Inspiration:
Straight leg version of the SS2021 Swabbies, top block pattern inspired by a private purchase pair of 1940s-50s USN dungarees. Non-regulation issue, in-country style.
Fabric:
Khaki HBT, sulfur dyed, subtle contrast color combo accents, 100% cotton.

6) RnR Shirt, Action Packed, Type II (Japan):
Inspiration:
Modified collar pattern of our original MF® x Sun Surf Rock’n’Roll Shirt from 2015. Using the classic wing tip collar pattern typical of our recent RnR shirts.
This works in our story as a civilian garment worn on R&R (Rest & Recuperation) by military personnel. It is documented that some SOG team members favored wearing “loud” shirts while on leave during their tour of duty in Southeast Asia. (if I remember well, source: “We Few: US Special Forces in Vietnam” by Nick Brokhausen)
Fabric options:
Classic vintage “Aloha shirt” style 100% rayon fabric, vintage “Action Packed” novelty print.
a) White.
b) Black.

7) Crew Chief, Jungle Green & Black (USA):
Inspiration:
Our popular skivvy shirt with long sleeves, 100% cotton tubular jersey, and featuring flack lock construction, making a return in two new color options.
Color options:
a) Jungle green
b) Black

8) PT Henley, Jungle Green & Black (USA):
Inspiration:
Our classic henley undershirt pattern, featuring 100% cotton “skivvy” tubular jersey and original flack lock construction, now available in new color options.
Color options:
a) Jungle green
b) Black

There it is.

Next up is our SS2023 Sportsman line up, all produced in USA.

Besides the usual classic vintage-inspired workwear and rugged Americana additions, the design twist on the more dressy pieces this season is a reference to French “Nouvelle Vague” cinema and period 1960s European continental fashion, worked into contemporary wearables. Think Belmondo in Pierrot Le Fou (1965), or Delon in Plein Soleil (1960), early 60s French Riviera etc.

The SS2023 Sportsman line up consists of:
1) “Midnight” Campus Jacket:
Our classic 1930s style leather jacket pattern translated into a woven fabric garment.
Fabric:
16 oz “Midnight denim”, selvedge, indigo warp x black weft, milled in Japan

2) CALIFORNIAN Lot.64, NOS Cone denim:
Our popular old school five-pocket silhouette.
Fabric:
Indigo denim, New Old Stock Cone Mills denim, organic cotton, 12.75 oz, USA.

3) RANCH BLOUSE “Frontier” Duck:
Our classic Type I denim jacket-inspired interpretation.
Fabric:
Duck canvas, dark brown, 100% cotton, 12 oz., USA.

4) CALIFORNIAN Lot.64, “Frontier” Duck:
Our popular old school five-pocket silhouette, and a nod to 1960s brown duck Lee® Riders.
Fabric:
Duck canvas, rust brown, 100% cotton, 12 oz., USA.

5) RANGER Shirt, “Midnight” indigo twill, NOS Cone Mills:
Our original 1930s style traditional workwear chin strap shirt pattern.
Fabric:
Indigo warp x black weft “Midnight” twill, NOS Cone Mills, 7 oz., 100% cotton, USA.

6) SLACKS “Nouvelle Vague”, color denim:
Inspired by European casual 1950s-60s fashion, with period French cinema references. Merging slacks and denim. Frogmouth front pockets and snap button waistband.
Fabric options:
NOS color denim, slubby crosshatch, 60% cotton x 40% linen, 8 oz., Italy.
a) Slate grey
b) Charcoal grey

7) CONTINENTAL Sportcoat, color denim:
Our staple unstructured sportcoat pattern, a versatile jacket inspired by French 1950s utilitarian work uniforms and period casual fashion.
Introduced in 2016, we are running a limited restock to match the Nouvelle Vague Slacks, adding an easy-to-wear two-piece suit option.
Fabric options:
NOS color denim, slubby crosshatch, 60% cotton x 40% linen, 8 oz., Italy.
a) Slate grey
b) Charcoal grey

8) ARISTOCRAT Shirt, woven stripe linen:
Our original dress shirt pattern, elegant yet casual.
Fabric:
NOS woven stripe, light weight & breezy, 100% linen, Italy.

9) BERKELEY BD Shirt, L/S, indigo dobby:
Our classic early 60s-inspired pull-over Berkeley shirt pattern, long sleeve, morphed into a full open-front shirt.
Fabric:
NOS dobby indigo, slubby horizontal ribs, origin unknown.

Our original SS2023 “FROGSVILLE x SAIGON Classified” mfsc collection and SPORTSMAN line up are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and exclusively manufactured in Japan and USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, in limited quantities.
Please note that the lookbook/preview features show samples, not necessarily reflecting quality/fit/details/labeling of the upcoming production.

Voila!

As always, besides the classic vintage style references, the common thread in all these original garments is the Mister Freedom® on-going commitment to ethical manufacturing, original designs, and resistance to fast fashion, with styles that will easily incorporate into one’s existing classic wardrobe.
I have said this before, but I know that you, as a “consumer”, have many options in selecting menswear apparel to match your aesthetics, ethics, and price point.
We are therefore particularly grateful to the discerning few who have chosen to give our humble Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane collaborations support through the years (2007!), sharing our passion and making us look good in your slice of the world.

Thank you very much for allowing us to continue doing what we like for all these years, without compromising to lower standards and fleeting fashion trends.

Love from (usually) Sunny California,

Soon available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® P.T. HENLEY, tubular cotton jersey, “M.A.S.H”, “R&R” and “Jungle” edition. Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® P.T. HENLEY, “M.A.S.H.” , “R&R” and “Jungle” Edition.
2021-22 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

By popular demand, we revisited our 2011 Gym Henley pattern, with stricter manufacturing standards and with production consistency in mind, leading to the new classic MF® P.T. HENLEY.

The original edition was released in dozens of eclectic NOS tubular jerseys, with all-over-the-place sizing and specs, and many one-of-a-kind units. Total goat rodeo. This time around, the P.T. HENLEY is exclusively cut from our “SKIVVY” all-cotton tubular jersey knit (no side seams), a fabric of MF® SKIVVY T-Shirt fame.
Fit-wise, this milled-in-USA “Skivvy” fabric has less mechanical stretch than our “STANLEY” slubby knit jersey (featured on our STANLEY T-Shirt model), resulting in a tighter, old school athletic shirt cut. For a more relaxed silhouette, one may consider sizing up.

Skivvy vs. Stanley? Both are a matter of personal preferences regarding fit/silhouette/drape, and more importantly depending on one’s body shape and proportions. Not to drop names here but, according to MF® internal records, Matt Damon went with the Stanley, so did Brad Pitt and Johnathan Majors (Lovecraft Country), while Channing Tatum opted for our Skivvy, etc… Regardless, we chose to release the P.T. Henley in the Skivvy jersey, for its tighter knit properties.

The P.T. HENLEY still features the MF® signature coverstitch/flatlock construction of our original Gym Henley. It is now available in three classic options:

a) The “M*A*S*H.” edition (a reference to the 1970 film comedy featuring the antics of the (fictitious) 4077th Mobile Army Surgical Hospital unit): White tubular body, contrast gunpowder grey needle-out jersey neckband, OD (Olive Drab) stitching and button placket facing.

b) “R&R” edition (a reference to military in-country Rest & Recuperation periods for the enlisted man, during the Korean and Vietnam conflict): White tubular body, tonal natural stitching, blue chambray button placket facing.

c) “Jungle” edition: OG-109 (Olive Green, Vietnam era) tubular body, tonal trims.

The MF® P.T. HENLEY is designed by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California, USA.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
100% cotton tubular jersey knit. Cotton grown and fabric milled in USA.
DETAILS:
* Inspired by classic utilitarian/military knit undershirts, and vintage casual sportswear henley shirts.
* Tubular body (no side seams).
* Coverstitch/flatlock construction.
* Woven fabric button placket facing, size stamped.
* Ribbed needle-out cotton jersey neckband.
* Genuine bone buttons, vintage style cat-eye.
* ¼ sleeve, self-fabric wide cuffs.
* Original mfsc “Sportsman” woven rayon label.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® P.T. Henleys comes rinsed/tumbled dry.
The tubular jersey fabric of the MF® P.T. Henley is the same as our SKIVVY T-Shirt fabric. Identical width, with low mechanical stretch. Use your SKIVVY size.
I wear a Small for a tight fit, pure personal preference. About 5’7 , ~145 lbs. Consider sizing up for a more relaxed fit or contemporary silhouette.

CARE:
Low maintenance. Machine wash on normal cycle, cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Tumble dry or hang dry.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2022

Mister Freedom® SCUBA Utilities, “Okinawa 301” denim, mfsc SS2022 FROGSVILLE

Mister Freedom® SCUBA Utilities, “Okinawa 301” left-hand twill denim
mfsc SS2022 FROGSVILLE
Made in Japan

These came about as we were considering turning the Scuba Trunks pattern – inspired by old school UDT combat swimmer shorts – into a pair of pants. The mission? Coming up with a pair of dungarees not related to the ubiquitous 5-pocket jeans, that could have existed.

“Wanna turn shorts into pants?”, I quipped, “Here it is, Barney-style, just add legs!”

The Mister Freedom® Design Dept kindly remarked that morphing our swim trunks into a pair of practical work pants may take a few more cups of brain juice.
First, we needed front pockets for functionality, so we borrowed the patch pocket design (sandwiched in the outseam) of our Utility Trousers from 2015.
For the back of the pants, the single square pocket of the trunks felt too plain, so we tapped our Swabbies for a more visually-pleasing rear pocketing design. We also needed two pockets, to balance with the absence of back yoke, also a feature of our classic Speedways, anecdotally. The four pockets are cut using horizontal warp, in contrast with the traditional vertical warp used for the legs, which always makes for interesting fabric roping and patina.
We of course kept the no-belt loops style waist band and D-ring cinch strap, pure vintage UDT shorts legacy.

There it is. A modern day wearable blending vintage military aesthetics and utilitarian clothing functionality, as featured in the “Chairborne Commando” star-studded Hollywood blockbuster.

Our Scuba Trunks may have challenged some in the Heritage Fashion community regarding “how short can you go?”, and, incidentally puzzled a few beach goers in my coastal neighborhood for a couple of years now, but its long-legged successor, the Scuba Utes, shouldn’t raise too many eyebrows in public. At least initially. Just wait for the “sick fades” on that sweet “Okinawa 301” indigo left-hand twill denim, and watch the crowds part and jaws drop!

The MF® Scuba Utilities are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Fancy “Okinawa 301” denim, 12 Oz. left-hand twill indigo premium denim, “hairy” and slubby, solid white selvedge ID, a Sugar Cane Co proprietary fabric. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 80% cotton and 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern inspired by vintage military swimmers trunks and UDT shorts, US Navy dungarees, Army field trousers and other utilitarian classic garments.
* Old school high rise, classic straight leg cut.
* Adjustable waist strap with Mil-Specs double D-ring buckle, ½ inch ~ 1 inch cinch.
* Waistband facing displaying denim selvedge ID.
* No belt loops.
* Front patch pocket original pattern, sandwiched in flat-felled outseam.
* Double rear pockets, concealed selvedge ID on inside fold.
* All four pockets cut using horizontal warp, in contrast with vertical warp of legs.
* Button fly, black painted metal “donut” wreath tack buttons.
* Chainstitch seam construction.
* Black tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Original mfsc Frogsville woven rayon label.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® SCUBA Utilities are true-to-size after a cold rinse/machine spin dry/line dry.
We recommend the following simple initial process.

Cold soak garment for about 30 mn in bathtub or washing machine, with occasional hand agitation.
Spin dry (spinning cycle) if using a washing machine.
Line dry/drip dry.

The resulting stiffness of the garment is due to the reactivated starch in the denim fabric, and is normal. Stiffness will easily subside with normal wear, fabric will soften.

The D-ring waist strap allows for about ½ inch to one inch cinch. I opted for a W31 in the Scuba Utilities, fully cinched, for a comfortable fit (I wear a W32 in all models of Scuba Trunks.) I’m about 5’7 / 145-150 lbs.

CARE:
Wash when necessary, as other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the pants inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using a heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, and the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.

Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2022

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane msfc FW2022 FROGSVILLE-HOOPER LookBook Preview

Mister Freedom® x SugarCane Co FW2022 “FROGSVILLE R&R” collection

Mister Freedom® x SugarCane Co FW2022 “HOOPER” collection

MF® Cashmere V-neck “Terrence” Sweater ®2022

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co mfsc FW2022 Preview:

Dear Friends,

Hope this finds you well, healthy, and in good spirits.
It is that time of the year…
Here is a preview of our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane (mfsc) FW2022 collaboration, for your consideration.

Two main groupings this season:

First are a few additions to our “FROGSVILLE” theme, an original collection freely inspired by vintage UDT (Underwater Demolition Team) gear, Frogmen and US Navy SEALs, where we revisit US military rigger-made garments and exotic local-made garb. The mission is to translate 1940s-1970s references and vintage influences into modern day wearables. Our frogman is going on R&R (Rest and Recuperation) in-country this season!

This FW2022 chapter of “FROGSVILLE” consists of:

1) CHINO UTILITY TROUSERS, BR Chino twill (Japan)
* An original mfsc pattern introduced in 2015, revisited.
* Cut from Buzz Rickson’s vintage mil-specs 8.2 Oz. chino twill.

2) CRACKERJACK CPO Shirt (Japan)
* Inspired US Navy enlisted Dress Blue Jumpers recut and recycled by local tailors into civilian “souvenir” garments.
* 9.2 Oz. Melton wool.
* Navy blue / ivory white

3) MARINER SWEATER, roll-neck cable knit (Japan)
* Fisherman cable knit pattern.
* 100% cotton.
* Indigo blue / black

4a) PT Henley, original M.A.S.H. edition (USA):
* MF® original “Skivvy” knit tubular body, white.
* Contrast OD (Olive Drab) stitching, OD poplin button placket, green ox bone buttons.

4b) PT Henley, R&R edition (USA):
* MF® original “Skivvy” knit tubular body, white.
* Tonal stitching, blue chambray button placket, natural ox bone buttons.
Note: A two-pack PT Henley combo is available and comes in a special printed cardboard box packaging.

5) SHIP Cap, solid (USA)
* 6-panel pattern, snap-back, baseball cap profile, inspired by US Navy PX command ball caps.
* NOS Cotton/Linen blend selvedge denim, dark indigo blue.

6) L/S SKIVVY T-Shirt (USA)
* MF® original “Skivvy” knit Tubular body, white, long sleeve edition.
* Vintage style needle-out ribbed neckband & extended cuffs, ecru.

There it is.

Next grouping is “HOOPER”, an exciting new stylistic escapade for us, with visuals borrowed from the vintage world of motion picture stuntmen/stuntwomen, before CGI (Computer-Generated Imagery) replaced adrenalin highs and broken bones.

To briefly set our FW2022 stage, the two main characters in Quentin Tarantino 2019 “Once Upon a Time in Hollywood” (Rick Dalton played by Leonardo DiCaprio, and Cliff Booth played by Brad Pitt) were partially based on two Hollywood legends: actor Burt Reynolds (who actually started his career as a movie stuntman) and former paratrooper and professional stuntman Hal Needham.

Burt Reynolds and Hal Needham (1980)

In the 1970s, Burt Reynolds was one of America’s most popular comedy actors, and Hal Needham one of the highest paid Hollywood stuntmen. They were actually close friends in real life, and bachelor pad roommates for some 11 years.
After 46 broken bones, Needham, who often played stuntdouble for Reynolds, eventually got tired of jumping off buildings and crashing cars for a living. He decided to create his own business (Stunts Unlimited), and dreamed of actually becoming a movie director. In 1977, he wrote the B-movie “Smokey and the Bandit”, and, to convince producers, enrolled his buddy Reynolds to star in it… Screen magic happened, and against all odds, the low budget “redneck buddy” movie became a hugely-popular hit in the USA. The flick remains today an iconic piece of period Southern culture Americana captured on film.
Following this success, Needham directed the movie “Hooper, The Greatest Stuntman Alive” (1978), a tribute to his profession: the stunt doubles, actual unsung heroes of the silver screen. Again, Burt Reynolds was the leading star, playing the fictitious stuntman Sonny Hooper.
Watch “The Bandit” documentary (2016) if you get a chance.

Our FW2022 mfsc “HOOPER” capsule collection blends vintage Hollywood professional stuntmen styles (yes, with an ounce of 70s macho men open collar shirts, aviators, sideburns and gold chains!), classic western wear, 1970s-80s automotive fashion (old school NASCAR garments, Wynn’s gear, 1980s “Auto Style” jackets etc), and classic vintage car/motorcycle racing promotional garments for gearheads.

To simplify things, the usual seasonal additions to our classic made-in-USA SPORTSMAN catalog have been incorporated into the HOOPER storyline, adding an earlier 1960s-70s McQueen in Palm Spring Desert vibe.
About a two-hour drive from Los Angeles, the actor’s Palm Springs home in the California desert was his get-away and escape from the busy Hollywood life. Hot days, cool nights, relaxing around the pool or desert racing, camping trips to the Sierra Madre Mountains… some of that lifestyle was famously documented at the time by photographers William Claxton or John Dominis (LIFE, 1963).
If McQueen often insisted on performing his own stunts, frowned by the studios considering risks and insurance liability, pros like Bud Ekins (the famous jump in “The Great Escape”, 1963) or Loren Janes (the moving train stunt in “The Hunter”, 1980) were never too far.

This adds a blend of cool 60s sportswear and vintage casual suiting to our action-packed HOOPER mix.

The FW2022 “HOOPER” line-up (made in USA & Japan) consists of:
1) SONNY Puffer Vest (JP):
* Reversible, quilted, 70s style synthetic fiber filling.
* Indigo corduroy x Blue denim / Indigo corduroy x brown denim.

2) ROADEO Puffer Jacket (JP):
* Quilted, 70s style synthetic fiber filling.
* Orange x Gold nylon / Black x Brown nylon / 7 Oz. denim x chambray.

3) Five-panel FEED CAP (USA):
* 1970s style trucker hat, snap-back.
* NOS denim/white mesh.
* Solid / Patched.

4) DUDE RANCHER Shirt, Corduroy edition (JP):
* Our popular original western snap shirt pattern.
* Black / Ivory / Ruby Red / Indigo Blue.

5) CALIFORNIAN LOT.64 “OUTLAW”, Midnight denim (USA)
* The popular fit of our classic Lot.64 Californian five-pocket jeans, with western-style “frogmouth” pockets.
* 16 Oz. Midnight denim, dark indigo warp x black weft.

6) RANCH BLOUSE, “Frontier” Duck Canvas (USA)
* The classic MF® Ranch Blouse pattern in a USA-milled sturdy and dry 12 Oz. brown duck canvas.

7) Leather RANCH BLOUSE, “Bison” (USA)
* A leather version of our classic MF® Ranch Blouse pattern.
* Veg-tan cowhide, tea-core with a cognac color top coat.

8) WORKMAN Shirt, “Americana” stripes (USA)
* NOS 100% cotton woven stripe fabric, white with blue & red stripes.

9) BRONCO CHAMP Type II (USA)
* 1960s style cafe racer rider jacket, a revisited pattern from our 2009 MF® Bronco Champ original, USA-made this time.
* Cotton printed flannel lining.
* Natural veg-tan cowhide / Black tea-core veg-tan cowhide.

10) CALIFORNIAN LOT.674 “Groovy”, NOS Cone denim (USA)
* Our slimmest five-pocket jeans, slightly tapered leg, 1960s vibe silhouette, button fly.
* NOS 14 Oz. Cone blue denim.
* Groovy NOS cotton printed canvas pocketing!

11) Cashmere V-Neck “TERRENCE” Sweater (Japan)
* A classic menswear staple garment, revisited with 50s—60s style extended cuffs/waistband.
* Fancy cable knit pattern.
* 100% Mongolian Cashmere.
* NOT made in China, and in very limited quantities.
* Black / Yale Blue / Ice-Blu

12) CONTINENTAL Sportcoat & Trousers (USA)
* NOS 100% cotton “Bossa” 3×1 cross hatch denim, 11 Oz.
* Lining/Pocketing: NOS 100% cotton woven stripe fabric, white with blue & red stripes.

13) CALIFORNIAN LOT.674 and COWBOY Jacket, Corduroy Edition (USA)
* Our slimmest five-pocket jeans (slightly tapered leg) & classic trucker denim jacket pattern, for a 1960s-70s vibe silhouette.
* Vintage 60s sportswear-style 14 wale corduroy, T/C (20/80) blend.
* Brown cord: Lot.674 and Cowboy Jacket.
* Indigo Blue cord: Lot.674 and Cowboy Jacket.

Both our original “FROGSVILLE” and “HOOPER” FW2022 collections are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and exclusively manufactured in Japan and USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, in limited quantities.
Please note that the lookbook/preview features show samples, not necessarily reflecting quality/details/labeling of the upcoming production.

Voila!

Thank you very much for your renewed support.

Love from Sunny California,

🌞✌🏼👴🏼🌴