Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, “101” selvedge denim, FW2020 mfsc “TRUCK STOP” collection. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Snap Shirt, “101” selvedge denim edition.
FW2020 mfsc TRUCK STOP collection.
Made in Japan.

Riding shotgun with the Rubber Duck for Fall 2020 is our DUDE RANCHER in a new skin, a nice and dry indigo denim twill. We are calling it “101” in reference to the famous U.S. Route 101 – or 101 freeway as it is called in So Cal – and as a nod to the bygone Montgomery Ward “101” Powerhouse workwear brand.
This 7.25 Oz. 2 x 1 selvedge twill is reminiscent of vintage Lee-Levi’s-Wrangler denim snap shirts, and enhanced by our choice of yellow/orange combo contrast stitching.

Our DUDE RANCHER pattern, previously released in black and white broadcloth (cotton poplin), printed shadow plaid, light indigo vat-dye chambray, and “Joan” woven plaid, is a Mister Freedom® spin on the traditional “western snap” shirt. The design features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes and arcuate panels. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.

The shirts buttons are painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts, initially featured on the 2013 MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.

The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt “101” denim is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
A dry 100% cotton indigo blue denim, 7.25 Oz., solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts.
* Traditional western-wear arcuate front and back yokes.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Yellow/orange combo contrast stitching.
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Fancy diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style selvedge side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The “101” Denim DUDE RANCHER comes RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Hang until fully dry.

I personally opted for a SMALL, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit, sizing down from my usual Medium in mfsc shirting. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.

Note that this denim version of the DUDE RANCHER features slightly longer tails and arms than previous versions.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CHART

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, “Joan Plaid” flannel, FW2020 mfsc “TRUCK STOP” collection. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Snap Shirt, “Joan” plaid flannel edition.
FW2020 mfsc TRUCK STOP collection.
Made in Japan.

Head over to Sesame Street, and get your ears on, Bubba! Imagine this CB convo:

A: “Breaker one-nine this here’s the Rubber Duck for that WATER HOLE capsule out of Shaky City. Put an eyeball on it good buddy! You gotta copy on me, C’mon?”

B: “That’s a 10-4 Rubber Duck, affirmative. Mercy sakes alive she’s a looker!
Well, looks like I got Evel Knievel on my donkey now, so i’ll back off the hammer. You too lil’ brother, stick to the double nickel, word is Kojak with a Kodak was spotted around your 20… Don’t feed the bears!”

A: “10-4 Bubba. Threes and eights. Keep the shiny side up. Over out.”

As a Four-Wheeler (a non-trucker) you probably missed a bit of the above exchange… But we’ve all watched Convoy and had the soundtrack as an ear worm at some point, and maybe made a few attempts at going full-on Rachet Jaw at karaoke? To brush-up on your 1970s Citizens Band (CB) radio lingo, here are a few clues to decode that convo:

Sesame Street: Channel 19, the “trucker channel” on CB radio.
Breaker One-Nine: prepping line when interrupting an ongoing convo on channel 19.
Rubber Duck: head vehicule of a convoy.
Water Hole: period slanguage for a highway Truck Stop.
Shaky City: Los Angeles.
10-4: copy that.
Double Nickel: 55 mph lane, speed limits fluctuate.
Evel Knievel on my donkey: motorcycle cop behind me.
10-20: one’s location
Bears: law enforcement in general.
Threes and eights: good luck/take care.
Keep the shiny side up: Safe driving, and keep the greasy side down.

Got a copy, good buddy?

Check out the “Over The Road” podcast and particularly this episode about the Trucking Industry history in the US, its place in American life, clarifying the concept of Wildcatters (aka independent trucker, owner operator, “gypsy”, scale-dodging outlaws with CB handles like “Bandit”, “Lone Ranger” etc) vs. Teamsters (Union drivers, more likely to be wearing company uniforms than western duds). The world of truckers – drivers as they refer to themselves, considered by some as the last of the cowboys – has also greatly contributed to American pop culture through the years, blessing us with no less than three volumes of Smokey and the Bandit, and other silver screen gems.
The 1979 documentary “On the Boulevard” gives a rare real-life glimpse of that industry at the time. The costume history-inclined can also find colorful period fashion statements in vintage Overdrive Magazine issues.

Now, about our shirt…
This iteration of our Dude Rancher shirt pattern leads the convoy (see what I did there) and introduces the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Fall 2020 mfsc “TRUCK STOP” collection. This capsule draws inspiration from the colorful world of the American independent trucker, with Mid-West style influences spanning 1950s to 1970s. 

The DUDE RANCHER pattern is our spin on the traditional “western snap” shirt. It features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes and arcuate panels. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.

Our shirt features painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts, initially featured on the 2013 MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.

The MF® Dude Rancher is already available in fine black and white broadcloth (cotton poplin), in a vibrant printed shadow plaid, and a light indigo vat-dye chambray.

We are introducing a new fabric this fall, an original plaid milled exclusively for us in Japan, and inspired by a beautiful 1950s Levi’s longhorn western shirt, belonging to a “Joan Saxe”, obviously a woman with exquisite tastes.

1950's vintage Levi's plaid shirt.

The vintage inspiration behind the fabric of the MF® Dude Rancher “Joan” plaid flannel.

Our interpretation of that vintage textile is a selvedge 8.25 Oz. woven plaid cotton flannel, with red and white dominant tones, and featuring actual indigo-dyed yarns in the weave. Our fabric, quite heavy and with a crisp dry hand, will over time fade to the tones of the vintage specimen.

The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt “Joan” plaid flannel is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Original 100% cotton woven plaid flannel, 8.25 Oz., selvedge, white and red dominant with indigo yarn highlights, milled in Japan exclusively for mfsc.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts.
* Traditional western-wear arcuate front and back yokes.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Tonal stitching.
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Fancy diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style selvedge side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The “Joan” Plaid DUDE RANCHER comes RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Hang until fully dry.

I opted for a SMALL, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit (5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs), sizing down from my usual Medium in mfsc shirting.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, vat-dyed selvedge chambray & printed shadow plaid, SS2020 mfsc “Dude Ranch” collection. Made in Japan.

 

 

Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, vat-dyed selvedge chambray & shadow-plaid printed poplin.
SS2020 mfsc “DUDE RANCH” collection & Surplus catalog.
Made in Japan.

The Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA introduced during Fall 2013 and released in a variety of denim-related fabrics was our first traditional “western snap” shirt. The “DUDE RANCHER” is our second spin on the style. This all-original pattern was inspired by a selection of vintage “cowboy” shirts, and initially issued in high-count cotton poplin during Spring 2019, available in solid black and white, with a limited edition “rodeo” batch custom chainstitch-embroidered.

The DUDE RANCHER features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes, but we opted for arcuate panels subtle-enough to keep the shirt not too “costumey”. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.
Our DUDE RANCHER features painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts, previously featured on the MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.

For this SS2020 release, we decided to go “Hee Haw meets Oklahoma!”, with a vibrant orange/green/yellow printed plaid poplin option. This period-looking check pattern was lifted verbatim from a vintage 1920s-30s garment from the MF® archives, also printed on high-count poplin. The “shadowed” plaid pattern has a definitive Art Deco vibe, reminiscent of bygone airbrush shading techniques. See the works of Dorothy and Otis Shepard, the power-couple geniuses behind Wringley’s chewing gum wrapper and countless of other 1930s billboards, paper ads and packaging.

This flashy number in Technicolor® is in sharp contrast with the vat-dyed selvedge chambray fabric option, kinda taking after Junior Bonner rather than 1950s Grand Ole Opry. If “traditional” chambray cloth is a plain weave of a colored warp (indigo for a blue chambray) and white weft, our vat-dyed chambray features light indigo-dyed yarn in both warp and weft, giving the fabric the appearance of a solid colored textile. Closer inspection will reveal the much more interesting and attractive grainy texture of classic chambrays. This characteristic definitely sets vat-dyed fabrics apart from regular piece-dyed fabrics (dyed after milling) and their ‘flat’, solid uniform color.
Vat-dyed chambrays were a popular novelty in 1940s-50s workwear, with fabric producers like PEPPERELL (Boston, Massachusetts) boasting of their colorfast, sunfast or “Will Not Fade” qualities.

Our choice of contrast stitching for the chambray model is a nod to the classic 1970s light-weight Levi’s chambrays familiar to vintage clothing aficionados. My Dad was a big fan, as I remember that vivid orange tab on the chest pocket, magically enhancing the faded blue fabric.
We combined orange and yellow thread for the caballo chainstitch, a subtle dual color contrast touch. The DUDE RANCHER features high-count stitching, contributing to the shirt’s vintage look, without having to resort to unnecessary processing, chemical washes or sandblasting. In these days of fast fashion, very few factories are still willing or qualified to operate the machines that allow such high-count stitching and narrow seams, so we are grateful for our friends at Toyo Enterprises for keeping this quality production level available. Such attention to details also delays production drastically, as each shirt takes about 3 times longer to complete. It goes without saying that this comes at a price, which the reader is very well aware of!

The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Two options:
a) Printed “shadow” plaid, high-count 100% cotton poplin, partial bleed-though, made in Japan.
b) Vat-dyed chambray, 100% cotton, light indigo blue solid color, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts.
* Traditional western-wear arcuate front and back yokes.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Tonal stitching for plaid model, dual contrast orange/yellow stitching for chambray version.
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Fancy diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/WASHING:
Both versions of the DUDE RANCHER come RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Hang until fully dry.

I opted for a MEDIUM in both fabric options (my usual size in mfsc shirting), for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CHART

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similar-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and could damage the garment.

Available RAW (un-rinsed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, cotton broadcloth, SS2019 mfsc Surplus catalog, made in Japan.

 

Photo courtesy of 20th Century Fox, “Junior Bonner” (1972)

Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, cotton broadcloth.
SS2019 mfsc Surplus catalog.
Made in Japan.

Following the Mister Freedom® Appaloosa introduced during Fall 2013 and released in a variety of denim-related fabrics, the “DUDE RANCHER” is our second traditional “western snap” shirt. This all-original pattern was inspired by a selection of vintage “cowboy” shirts, and will now be joining the ranks of the mfsc SURPLUS catalog.

The DUDE RANCHER features the expected western-style front and back yokes. We opted for arcuate panels subtle-enough to keep the shirt as a daily-wearable, with traditional yet understated curved yokes.

The playful “M” tonal branding stitch on the chest pockets is also discreet. We couldn’t help an ace up the sleeve with the tricked-out forearm pattern featuring an intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket. The pattern-making connoisseur will appreciate.

The fabric we opted for for this first release is a fancy 100% cotton broadcloth, a type of tightly-woven poplin. Broadcloth, with its silky smooth surface and crispy dry hand, is often associated with fancy vintage dress shirts. As a caveat, cotton broadcloth is prone to natural fabric wrinkling, a characteristic of garments cut from noble natural fiber materials (cotton, linen, silk etc…), before the crowning of poly-cotton and acrylics as households’ favorites, sometime in the 1960’s, to facilitate stain removal and liberate one from the burden of ironing. Generations later, this fashion shift and material preference will also lead to the production of billions of pounds of synthetic garments impossible to recycle.

As introduced a few years back with the Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts, the DUDE RANCHER features painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, our use of tonal metal snaps is both a nod to bygone westernwear fashion, and a design choice for a toned-down vibe that doesn’t scream yipikaye. Basically, we wanted an easy-to-wear classic garment.

For the rodeo-inclined, we are also releasing a limited edition run of embroidered DUDE RANCHER shirts, featuring original chainstitched “MF® Ranch”classic artwork, a nod to 1950’s style of branding work uniforms and other promotional garments. For consistency and cost issues, these custom shirts have not been decorated on hand-crank operated chainstitch machines, but with program-operated machines. The results are similar, but the expert chainstitch artist will notice the difference in the filling technique. Having recently added a 1950’s Cornely to our upstairs atelier in order to do a few in-house embro jobs, we were quite happy to delegate this tedious custom “rodeo” production task to the pros!


Note: Considering the fine broadcloth fabric and metal snaps, refrain from yanking on the front panels á la Tom Jones when taking your shirt off. Carefully un-snap the buttons one by one, and listen to the crowd roar.

The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
100% cotton broadcloth (aka poplin), tight weave, smooth soft texture and crispy dry hand. Milled in Japan
Two color options, black or white.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts.
* Traditional arcuate front and back yokes.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Original mountain-shaped “M” tonal stitching on pockets.
* Intricate diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton tonal hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” tonal woven label.

SIZING/WASHING:
The DUDE RANCHER comes rinsed/preshrunk. The shirt is ready-to-wear.
I opted for a MEDIUM (in both colors), my usual size in mfsc shirting, for a trim, traditional western shirt fit.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

 

CARE:
When needed, machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similar-colored garments.
Mind the fine broadcloth fabric and metal snaps combination, and do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and could damage the garment.

Available rinsed (pre-shrunk)
Solid black/white, or “Rodeo Edition”.
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019