corduroy « CHRISTOPHELOIRON®

Mister Freedom® BARNSTORMER Jacket, “USN Khaki” Jungle Cloth, FW2023 msfc “Survival School”, made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co BARNSTORMER Jacket, “USN khaki” jungle cloth edition.
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School”
Made in Japan.

We have released quite a few peacoat styles through the years…

Our initial take on classic US Navy 10-button peacoats was the “Naval Clothing Tailor” denim Coat, Deck, Utility (mfsc 6284), back in Spring 2008.
The original pattern was adapted from a vintage US Coast Guard 1920s melton wool peacoat. That first issue was released in a sugarcane fiber denim shell (14 ½ Oz. “301” Okinawa denim), paired with an indigo/white striped cotton ticking lining. Going through old documents recently, I realized that in 2008, only 39 pieces were produced in Japan for the US market, and an unknown small amount for Japan. For the OGs who still have theirs, they’re pretty rare! Mine sadly got stollen from a display years ago.

Followed a few variations on the same basic jacket pattern, all with new creative exotic names:

* Fall 2008: MF® Peacoat “Liberty Issue” (mfsc 6284MD), same “301” denim shell but with a wool navy blanket lining, and with a classic naval “Liberty” treatment (concealed rainbow stitching and mermaid patches.)
* Fall 2010: MF® “Midnight” P-Jacket, 16 Oz. “Midnight” twill (indigo warp x black weft), 10 Oz. indigo/white cotton pincheck lining.
* Fall 2015: MF® Caban Peacoat, indigo warp x black weft twill shell, HBT French Lizard camo lining.
* Fall 2016: MF® Waterfront Coat, natural linen/cotton HBT shell, Troy blanket lining.
* Fall 2017: MF® MAC Jacket, 9 Oz. Mil-Specs OG-107 cotton sateen, red plaid printed flannel lining.
* Fall 2020: MF® Roamer Car Coat, black 14 Oz. wide-wale corduroy, Troy blanket lining.

For Fall 2023, we are introducing a new member to that MF® peacoat family: The MF® BARNSTORMER Jacket.

This bad boy is the love child between a 1920s USCG 10-button peacoat, a 1940s USN jungle cloth N-1 Deck Jacket, and vintage civilian 1930s “Duck Hunting Coats” out of the Montgomery Ward, Sears Roebuck or LL Bean catalogs.

For the story, those civilian khaki brown hunting coats/Mackinaw coats are also referred-to as “China Marine” jackets (as worn by the 4th Marines stationed in China mid-1920s to 1941), or “Iceland” jackets (as worn by First Marine Provisional Brigade stationed in Iceland circa 1941.)
Interestingly, that hunting coat style also made it on deck of USN ships in the 1940s, since several outdoor clothing contractors supplied the Navy with winter gear on the onset of WW2. See famous LIFE Magazine photos of sailors sporting a range of foul weather jackets.
We have seen a few vintage civilian specimen pass through the MF® HQ doors, and they usually get snagged pretty quickly.
From those 1930s hunting coats, we only borrowed the leather pocket welt/stops accents, an attractive color/texture contrast between the khaki jungle cloth and black horsehide trims.

The inspiration we drew from authentic 1940s US Navy N-1 deck jackets is the vintage Mil-Specs shell fabric, a sturdy and windproof 14 Oz. Jungle Cloth (aka cotton grosgrain) in its mid-40s “USN Khaki” color. This specific “olive” shade is un-issued, i.e. darker than many contemporary khaki N-1 fabrics with a lighter sun-bleached look.

For the lining of our BARNSTORMER, we stayed “plausible” and went with an all-cotton golden brown mid-wale corduroy, a reference to the hand warmer pocket bags on vintage 30s-50s USN peacoats, before the Quartermaster decided on the cheaper pocketing fabric option of an unbleached-white cotton twill.

As sleeve lining, we chose a vintage Mil-Specs OG-107 cotton sateen material, just because there’s nothing like discovering fancy expensive fabric on the inside of a garment!

The term “barnstormer” is a reference to the early days of aviation when pilots in open cockpits had to resort to all kinds of winter gear, often long and bulky leather coats not yet specifically designed for flying. Legend has it that strafing though an open Mid-West barn was a famous acrobatic circus act for a barnstorming stunt flier in the 1920s, which may, or may not, have been safer than the death-defying wing-walking routine…

The “modified” double labeling — recurring branding for our msfc “Survival School” collection — is a reference to period US military experimental clothing, and a respectful nod to the little-known Quartermaster Research Facility (aka Natick Army Labs), a US Department of Defense organization located in Natick, Massachusetts. The “CLOTHING & TEXTILE RESEARCH UNIT” has been tasked with designing and developing anything from new uniforms/gear/fabrics/camo patterns/etc for the US military since 1952.

: USN deck jackets on deck, circa 1944 ©LIFE Magazine

: USN deck jackets on deck, circa 1944 ©LIFE Magazine

: Vintage LL Bean Hunting Coat, Mister Freedom® archives 2020

: LL Bean “Duck Hunting Coat” ad 1943

Will all the above as pedigree, the Mister Freedom® BARNSTORMER definitely ended-up looking like a “could-have-been”, and may puzzle a few in the next generations of vintage buyers, should a well-worn specimen resurface at a flea market in the year 2070!
Buyer: “Dude, is this like, old?”
Seller: “Dude, it’s from the 20s.”

The MF® BARNSTORMER Jacket is designed in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, and made in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, freely inspired by early 1910s-30s US Navy/US Coast Guard wool peacoats, vintage military deck jackets and hunting coats.

FABRIC:
Heavy-duty 100% cotton “jungle cloth”, vintage Mil-Specs 14 Oz. grosgrain, 1940s USN khaki shade, milled in Japan.
Body lining: Soft 100% cotton mid-wale corduroy, golden brown shade, milled in Japan.
Sleeve lining: 100% cotton OG-107 sateen, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Classic 1910s~1930s US Navy & US Coast Guards melton wool peacoat pattern and construction.
* Ten-button front closure.
* Early USN type ’13 stars’ fouled anchor design buttons.
* Four outside pockets: two ‘hand warmer’ slash pockets and two flap closure hip pockets, all lined with golden brown corduroy.
* Inside chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket (resized to fit an average smartphone, so that you keep it tucked-in while you drive.)
* Black tea-core horsehide leather arrowhead pocket stops and pocket welt reinforcements and contrast accents.
* Detachable chin strap (displaying either fabric if left dangling, or concealed if buttoned under the collar.)
* Traditional zig-zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching.
* “Modified” double labeling, original MF® and mfsc woven/printed labels.
* Cotton-wrap poly thread tonal stitching.
* Mister Freedom® woven rayon “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” label topped with “EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH UNIT” collection-specific printed label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® BARNSTORMER Jacket ships raw/unwashed, and will shrink to intended/tagged size after the following initial process:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.

Line dry.

Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

We recommend getting your usual size in mfsc jackets/coats. Do not size down as the arm hole opening may become an issue.
I’m ~5’7 – 140 lbs and went for a 38 in this jungle cloth peacoat model, even though I tend to navigate between 36 (Small) and 38 (Medium) lately.

Please check out our measurement chart and compare with a similar garment you own that fits you well. To dial in your size, also consider your layering preferences.

MF® crew sizing recs:
CL (5’7 ~ 140 lbs): I opted for a 38 (MEDIUM), for a comfortable fit to allow layering.
John (6’ ~ 170 lbs): 40 (LARGE)
Ivan (5’9 ~ 160 lbs): 38 (MEDIUM)
Enoch (6’ ~ 153 lbs): 38 (MEDIUM)

CARE:
DO NOT MACHINE WASH.
This garment is too heavy and voluminous for a regular home washer, even one boasting “Heavy Duty” settings. A machine wash cycle will either ruin the jacket, the machine, or both.
Professional eco-friendly dry-cleaning is recommended should heavy soiling occur. Spot cleaning with a wet rag is an option for minor stain.
Additionally, the initial soaking process can be repeated, with a minimal dose of eco-friendly detergent added to the bath to hand wash the garment.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt, corduroy edition, FW2022 mfsc HOOPER collection. Made in Japan.

New MF® Dude Rancher Corduroy, Ruby Red version, Day 1 of an experimental “Sunshine” treatment.

MF® Dude Rancher Corduroy, Ruby Red, after a month of outside exposure in the California sun, as an experimental “Sunshine” treatment for colorfastness.

MF® Dude Rancher Corduroy, Indigo Blue, after a month of outside exposure in the California sun, as an experimental “Sunshine” treatment for colorfastness.

MF® Dude Rancher Corduroy, Black, after a month of outside exposure in the California sun, as an experimental “Sunshine” treatment for colorfastness.

MF® Dude Rancher Corduroy, new and month-long “Sunshine” treatment (only experimental)

Original “Stunt Gladiators of Hollywood” wooden truck tailgate from the 1978 movie HOOPER, now hanging at MF® HQ, scored in a California Desert thrift store, sometime in 2021!

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirt, corduroy edition.
FW2022 mfsc HOOPER Collection.
Made in Japan.

The Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA introduced during Fall 2013 and released in a variety of denim-related fabrics was our first traditional “Western snap” shirt.

Its much fancier successor, the all-original MF® “DUDE RANCHER”, is our second spin on a western-style shirt pattern. The pattern is inspired by a selection of vintage “cowboy” shirts from our archives, each with specific variations of a style pioneered by Rockmount Ranch Wear legendary CEO Jack Weil starting circa 1946. “Papa Jack”, as he was called, is credited as the father of the modern Western shirt, and the first “designer” to opt for snap button closure, vs. the earlier 1930s shank button styles.

Our DUDE RANCHER pattern was of course twisted MF® style and has become a Mister Freedom® staple since its 2019 poplin debut in our catalog. It definitely became popular in Italy… It is today available in a wide range of old school fabrics.

The MF® DUDE RANCHER features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes, but we decided on arcuate panels subtle-enough to keep the shirt not too “costumey”. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.
Another distinctive design choice are the painted metal snaps, reminiscent of sought-after vintage 1950s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell western shirts, as previously featured on the MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional Western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.

The fabric choice for this “HOOPER” edition is inspired by a mid 1950s vintage dressy corduroy shirt from our archives, bearing the famous Texas-made defunct “Tem-Tex” label. Corduroy western-cut shirts are quite unusual, so the fabric became a good candidate for us. We sourced out a Japan-milled fancy all-cotton 14W grade (14 wales per inch), similar to the Tem-Tex original, in a rich Ruby Red, Ivory White, genuine Indigo Blue, and Black options.
Our choice of black rayon fabric as the collar band facing is also a reference to the fancy Tem-Tex specimen.

Vintage 1950s “TEM-TEX” Western shirt from the Mister Freedom® Archives, color inspiration for the MF® Dude Rancher 2022 corduroy edition.

We went for tonal stitching on three of the color options, but decided to jazz-up the indigo version with an attractive contrast yellow/gold thread combo. Finer than frog hair if you ask me.

To experiment with color fastness, and because chemically-distress garments are against our religion, we submitted three samples to the California sun for about a month. The body of the shirts were stuffed with paper and set on mannequins fully exposed to the elements, moved around occasionally, same process as our Sunshine Edition Ts & jackets. These experimental prototypes are photographed here for potential “evo” reference only, not available for purchase.

The MF® DUDE RANCHER Western snap shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Fancy 100% cotton 14W corduroy, milled in Japan.

Four color options: Ruby Red, Ivory White, Indigo Blue (genuine indigo), and Black.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional 1950’s Western-style shirts.
* Original Western-wear arcuate front and back yokes combo.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (paint will chip with age.)
* Tonal stitching. (Indigo version features fancy yellow/orange combo contrast stitching)
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Intricate diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label, blending well with our “HOOPER” storyline.
* Made in Japan, slowly produced.

SIZING/FIT:
The corduroy MF® DUDE RANCHER comes RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Spin dry and line dry.
Hang until fully dry.

I opted for a MEDIUM on this corduroy version of the DUDE RANCHER, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit. (I’m 5.7’’ approx. 145 Lbs.)
Please note that I sized down on earlier versions, so do refer to sizing chart for approximate soaked measurements to properly dial in your size.
This is how we measure. Please use those guidelines to compare measurements of a garment of a similar style you own (i.e. a shirt), and that fits according to your liking.
When in doubt, reach out to the MF® Team sales@misterfreedom.com with your body measurements and fit expectations to get educated sizing recommendations.

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane msfc FW2022 FROGSVILLE-HOOPER LookBook Preview

Mister Freedom® x SugarCane Co FW2022 “FROGSVILLE R&R” collection

Mister Freedom® x SugarCane Co FW2022 “HOOPER” collection

MF® Cashmere V-neck “Terrence” Sweater ®2022

: MF® RB canvas ©2023

: MF® RB “Bison” ©2022

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co mfsc FW2022 Preview:

Dear Friends,

Hope this finds you well, healthy, and in good spirits.
It is that time of the year…
Here is a preview of our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane (mfsc) FW2022 collaboration, for your consideration.

Two main groupings this season:

First are a few additions to our “FROGSVILLE” theme, an original collection freely inspired by vintage UDT (Underwater Demolition Team) gear, Frogmen and US Navy SEALs, where we revisit US military rigger-made garments and exotic local-made garb. The mission is to translate 1940s-1970s references and vintage influences into modern day wearables. Our frogman is going on R&R (Rest and Recuperation) in-country this season!

This FW2022 chapter of “FROGSVILLE” consists of:

1) CHINO UTILITY TROUSERS, BR Chino twill (Japan)
* An original mfsc pattern introduced in 2015, revisited.
* Cut from Buzz Rickson’s vintage mil-specs 8.2 Oz. chino twill.

2) CRACKERJACK CPO Shirt (Japan)
* Inspired US Navy enlisted Dress Blue Jumpers recut and recycled by local tailors into civilian “souvenir” garments.
* 9.2 Oz. Melton wool.
* Navy blue / ivory white

3) MARINER SWEATER, roll-neck cable knit (Japan)
* Fisherman cable knit pattern.
* 100% cotton.
* Indigo blue / black

4a) PT Henley, original M.A.S.H. edition (USA):
* MF® original “Skivvy” knit tubular body, white.
* Contrast OD (Olive Drab) stitching, OD poplin button placket, green ox bone buttons.

4b) PT Henley, R&R edition (USA):
* MF® original “Skivvy” knit tubular body, white.
* Tonal stitching, blue chambray button placket, natural ox bone buttons.
Note: A two-pack PT Henley combo is available and comes in a special printed cardboard box packaging.

5) SHIP Cap, solid (USA)
* 6-panel pattern, snap-back, baseball cap profile, inspired by US Navy PX command ball caps.
* NOS Cotton/Linen blend selvedge denim, dark indigo blue.

6) L/S SKIVVY T-Shirt (USA)
* MF® original “Skivvy” knit Tubular body, white, long sleeve edition.
* Vintage style needle-out ribbed neckband & extended cuffs, ecru.

There it is.

Next grouping is “HOOPER”, an exciting new stylistic escapade for us, with visuals borrowed from the vintage world of motion picture stuntmen/stuntwomen, before CGI (Computer-Generated Imagery) replaced adrenalin highs and broken bones.

To briefly set our FW2022 stage, the two main characters in Quentin Tarantino 2019 “Once Upon a Time in Hollywood” (Rick Dalton played by Leonardo DiCaprio, and Cliff Booth played by Brad Pitt) were partially based on two Hollywood legends: actor Burt Reynolds (who actually started his career as a movie stuntman) and former paratrooper and professional stuntman Hal Needham.

Burt Reynolds and Hal Needham (1980)

In the 1970s, Burt Reynolds was one of America’s most popular comedy actors, and Hal Needham one of the highest paid Hollywood stuntmen. They were actually close friends in real life, and bachelor pad roommates for some 11 years.
After 46 broken bones, Needham, who often played stuntdouble for Reynolds, eventually got tired of jumping off buildings and crashing cars for a living. He decided to create his own business (Stunts Unlimited), and dreamed of actually becoming a movie director. In 1977, he wrote the B-movie “Smokey and the Bandit”, and, to convince producers, enrolled his buddy Reynolds to star in it… Screen magic happened, and against all odds, the low budget “redneck buddy” movie became a hugely-popular hit in the USA. The flick remains today an iconic piece of period Southern culture Americana captured on film.
Following this success, Needham directed the movie “Hooper, The Greatest Stuntman Alive” (1978), a tribute to his profession: the stunt doubles, actual unsung heroes of the silver screen. Again, Burt Reynolds was the leading star, playing the fictitious stuntman Sonny Hooper.
Watch “The Bandit” documentary (2016) if you get a chance.

Our FW2022 mfsc “HOOPER” capsule collection blends vintage Hollywood professional stuntmen styles (yes, with an ounce of 70s macho men open collar shirts, aviators, sideburns and gold chains!), classic western wear, 1970s-80s automotive fashion (old school NASCAR garments, Wynn’s gear, 1980s “Auto Style” jackets etc), and classic vintage car/motorcycle racing promotional garments for gearheads.

To simplify things, the usual seasonal additions to our classic made-in-USA SPORTSMAN catalog have been incorporated into the HOOPER storyline, adding an earlier 1960s-70s McQueen in Palm Spring Desert vibe.
About a two-hour drive from Los Angeles, the actor’s Palm Springs home in the California desert was his get-away and escape from the busy Hollywood life. Hot days, cool nights, relaxing around the pool or desert racing, camping trips to the Sierra Madre Mountains… some of that lifestyle was famously documented at the time by photographers William Claxton or John Dominis (LIFE, 1963).
If McQueen often insisted on performing his own stunts, frowned by the studios considering risks and insurance liability, pros like Bud Ekins (the famous jump in “The Great Escape”, 1963) or Loren Janes (the moving train stunt in “The Hunter”, 1980) were never too far.

This adds a blend of cool 60s sportswear and vintage casual suiting to our action-packed HOOPER mix.

The FW2022 “HOOPER” line-up (made in USA & Japan) consists of:
1) SONNY Puffer Vest (JP):
* Reversible, quilted, 70s style synthetic fiber filling.
* Indigo corduroy x Blue denim / Indigo corduroy x brown denim.

2) ROADEO Puffer Jacket (JP):
* Quilted, 70s style synthetic fiber filling.
* Orange x Gold nylon / Black x Brown nylon / 7 Oz. denim x chambray.

3) Five-panel FEED CAP (USA):
* 1970s style trucker hat, snap-back.
* NOS denim/white mesh.
* Solid / Patched.

4) DUDE RANCHER Shirt, Corduroy edition (JP):
* Our popular original western snap shirt pattern.
* Black / Ivory / Ruby Red / Indigo Blue.

5) CALIFORNIAN LOT.64 “OUTLAW”, Midnight denim (USA)
* The popular fit of our classic Lot.64 Californian five-pocket jeans, with western-style “frogmouth” pockets.
* 16 Oz. Midnight denim, dark indigo warp x black weft.

6) RANCH BLOUSE, “Frontier” Duck Canvas (USA)
* The classic MF® Ranch Blouse pattern in a USA-milled sturdy and dry 12 Oz. brown duck canvas.

7) Leather RANCH BLOUSE, “Bison” (USA)
* A leather version of our classic MF® Ranch Blouse pattern.
* Veg-tan cowhide, tea-core with a cognac color top coat.

8) WORKMAN Shirt, “Americana” stripes (USA)
* NOS 100% cotton woven stripe fabric, white with blue & red stripes.

9) BRONCO CHAMP Type II (USA)
* 1960s style cafe racer rider jacket, a revisited pattern from our 2009 MF® Bronco Champ original, USA-made this time.
* Cotton printed flannel lining.
* Natural veg-tan cowhide / Black tea-core veg-tan cowhide.

10) CALIFORNIAN LOT.674 “Groovy”, NOS Cone denim (USA)
* Our slimmest five-pocket jeans, slightly tapered leg, 1960s vibe silhouette, button fly.
* NOS 14 Oz. Cone blue denim.
* Groovy NOS cotton printed canvas pocketing!

11) Cashmere V-Neck “TERRENCE” Sweater (Japan)
* A classic menswear staple garment, revisited with 50s—60s style extended cuffs/waistband.
* Fancy cable knit pattern.
* 100% Mongolian Cashmere.
* NOT made in China, and in very limited quantities.
* Black / Yale Blue / Ice-Blu

12) CONTINENTAL Sportcoat & Trousers (USA)
* NOS 100% cotton “Bossa” 3×1 cross hatch denim, 11 Oz.
* Lining/Pocketing: NOS 100% cotton woven stripe fabric, white with blue & red stripes.

13) CALIFORNIAN LOT.674 and COWBOY Jacket, Corduroy Edition (USA)
* Our slimmest five-pocket jeans (slightly tapered leg) & classic trucker denim jacket pattern, for a 1960s-70s vibe silhouette.
* Vintage 60s sportswear-style 14 wale corduroy, T/C (20/80) blend.
* Brown cord: Lot.674 and Cowboy Jacket.
* Indigo Blue cord: Lot.674 and Cowboy Jacket.

Both our original “FROGSVILLE” and “HOOPER” FW2022 collections are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and exclusively manufactured in Japan and USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, in limited quantities.
Please note that the lookbook/preview features show samples, not necessarily reflecting quality/details/labeling of the upcoming production.

Voila!

As always, besides the classic vintage style references, the common thread in all these original garments is the Mister Freedom® on-going commitment to ethical manufacturing, original designs, and resistance to fast fashion, with styles that will easily incorporate into any existing classic wardrobe.

Thank you very much for your renewed support.

Love from Sunny California,

🌞✌🏼👴🏼🌴

Mister Freedom® Continental “RIVE GAUCHE” Two-Piece Suit, Camel Brown 14 Oz. Corduroy, mfsc FW2020, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Continental “Rive Gauche” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat & Trousers), 14 Oz. corduroy.
FW2020 mfsc Sportsman catalog
Made in USA

The Continental Two-Piece Suit combines two of our popular classic patterns, the MF® Continental Sportcoat and Continental Trousers, both staples of our made-in-USA Sportsman catalog.

The unstructured blazer style of the MF® Continental Sportcoat was initially inspired by a vintage French 1950s cotton twill work coat, jazzed-up by our Design Dept sometime in 2016. The MF® Continental Trousers’ pattern introduced the same year drew inspiration from 50s-60s tailoring, vintage casual wear, and timeless slick silhouettes.

Released since in an array of NOS and Japan-milled fabrics, both sportcoat and trousers are quite versatile garments. Equally intended to be worn mismatched, as a two-piece suit, or paired with whatever one is comfortable with, the Mister Freedom® Continental series’ only commitment is to be stylish, flexible, travel-friendly (i.e. low-maintenance), and USA-made.

This FW2020 “Rive Gauche” edition features the same grade of 14 Oz. wide-wale corduroy of the 2019 Mattock Jacket, a fabric inspired by 1930s-40s French Velour d’Amiens and discussed here in its historical background. We couldn’t resist requesting another batch to be milled for the Continental suit.

Regarding semantics, “Rive Gauche” refers to the left bank of the Seine, splitting the City of Light in half. The famed river was instrumental in elevating Paris as France’s capital through the years. The city’s nautical motto “Fluctuat nec mergitur” (something like “rocked by waves but never sunk”) suggests Paris’ long and troubled history. Its “Rive Droite” (right bank, north of the river) has been perceived as conservative and upper class territory, while the “Rive Gauche” was more blue collar, attracting free-spirited intellectuals, artists… Those lines have obviously been blurred for decades, but still fiercely-debated at the “café du commerce”.

Bar-room politics aside, corduroy fabric has traditionally been associated with the working class in Europe, and its resurgence in French menswear in the late 1960s~1970s signaled a new popular appeal for “simple” values and “liberal” references in casual fashion.
A stereotype “prof de Géo” (Geography teacher) clad in a brown corduroy suit, Fair Isle sweater vest and red scarf, strolling around the Quartier Latin circa 1975, might ring a bell for some Parisian old timers.
Our “Rive-Gauche” two-piece carries that old school professor vibe, but will morph into anything according to how one styles it. The Sportcoat is cut quite trim and on the shorter side, for more of a 1930s vibe than the longer deep vent back of 1970s suit jackets.

The mfsc Continental “Rive-Gauche” Two-Piece Suit (Continental Sportcoat & Continental Trousers) in 14 Oz. wide-wade corduroy is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

Both “Rive-Gauche” Sportcoat & Trousers are available separately. A 15% rebate will be applied at Paypal checkout when purchased as a two-piece set.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
14 Oz. Heavy wide-wale corduroy, 100% cotton, “vintage” cognac brown color, milled in Japan.
Pocketing & half lining/facing: New Old Stock oatmeal color chambray with woven white stripe, linen-cotton blend, milled in EU.

Continental “Rive-Gauche” SPORTCOAT:
* Unstructured silhouette.
* Easy to pack and unfold, perfect traveling companion.
* Vintage-vibe high button front.
* Corozo wood buttons.
* Half shoulder floating lining, NOS cotton/linen stripe chambray.
* Side hip pockets with flaps.
* Pocket openings reinforced on the inside with facing fabric.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching, all clean caballo (chainstitch) flat-felled seam construction, green color “Sportsman” signature chainstitch on the inside. No open edges or overlock.
* Made in USA.

Continental “Rive-Gauche” TROUSERS:
* Elegant late 1950′s early 1960’s type silhouette and fit, straight leg.
* Corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Flat-felled (caballo) leg out seam.
* Rear welt pockets.
* Trousers-style belt loops.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* NOS cotton/linen stripe chambray pocket bags and waist band.
* Watch pocket.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstich MF® signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed when wearing a belt.
* Tailor shop-style unfinished overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT
This explains how we size our garments.
The Continental “Rive-Gauche” Sportcoat and trousers come raw/unwashed. We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process.
The tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. The subtle variation of shrinkage between body fabric/lining fabric/cotton thread will result in normal puckering and roping, slightly altering the fit and drape.

I personally opted for a snug Size 38 (Medium) in this corduroy Continental sportcoat, and a comfortable W32 trousers. These are my usual sizes in the Continental series and most mfsc garments. I am about 5’7 ~150 Lbs.

Sportcoat sizing:
This “Rive-Gauche” corduroy Sportcoat release is cut quite trim, and sizing-up might be an option for some, especially if one plans to layer with a sweater or thick shirt, or just wants a more relaxed/unstructured look. The cut is similar to that of the recent “Parisien” Sportcoat, with a trim/shorter silhouette typical of 1930s mens blazers. The shorter length might not be ideal for tall individuals not comfortable with a “period fit” and vintage silhouette.

Trousers sizing:
The Continental “Rive-Gauche” Trousers are true to size. If you are a measured waist 32 inches, you are most-likely a stamped W32 in these. The top block is fairly snug, with a slim thigh and straight leg. A W31 was too tight on me.
To accommodate fine tuning for the silhouette of your choice, we are releasing these in a few select odd sizes too (W29, W31 and W33).
Please note that the Continental Trousers pattern might not be a good option for all body types. Proportion-wise, those with muscular legs will probably look better in our regular Sportsman Chino models.

Trousers hemming:
After the initial soak/hang dry process, we recommend settling down on the final length of the bottom hem after gently wearing the trousers around the house a bit. The cotton fabric tends to naturally bunch/wrinkle and pull the leg up slightly. Letting this specific fabric react to your own body for an hour or so will allow you to decide on a proper classic leg break that works for you.
I opted for a simple 1½ inch hem with no fold, with a slight break.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
(Fit pic wearing a size 38 jacket and W32 trousers.)

CARE:
Although low maintenance, both corduroy Sportcoat and Trousers should be considered as a delicate garments and treated with care.
We recommend professional dry-cleaning when needed.
Carefully hand washing in cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent and line dry is also an option.

Continental “Rive-Gauche” SPORTCOAT:
Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Continental “Rive-Gauche” TROUSERS:
Sizes (inseam length about 36’’, left un-cuffed):
W 28
W 29
W 30
W 31
W 32
W 33
W 34
W 36
W 38

Continental “Rive-Gauche” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat + Trousers): Any size combination available, 15% rebate issued during PayPal check out when purchased as a set.
Sportcoat and trousers are also available separately.

Mister Freedom® “ROAMER” Car Coat, 14 Oz Wide-Wale Corduroy, mfsc FW2020 Surplus Catalog. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat, 14 Oz. wide-wale corduroy.
FW2020 mfsc SURPLUS Catalog.
Made in Japan.

We released our first take on the 1910s-30s classic melton wool US Navy 10-button front P-Jacket back in 2008, as part of the original “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” line-up. That classic pattern has turned out to be quite a Mister Freedom® chameleon over the years, as we’ve played with its appearance many times.

If the initial SS2008 release was cut from a 14½ Oz. SC301 “Okinawa” fiber denim, later versions have included the 2010 “Midnight P-Jacket” and its 2015 “Caban Peacoat” clone in a 16 Oz. dark indigo warp x black weft “Midnight” denim, the 2016 “Waterfront Coat” in an elegant natural linen/cotton HBT fabric, and finally the rugged 2017 “MAC Jacket” in US Army OG107 cotton-back sateen.

The vintage military P-Jacket (aka Peacoat) pattern has been discussed at length with each release on this blog, with this post going quite deep down the rabbit’s hole, for those interested in historical fashion tidbits and our understanding of Costume History.

This FW2020 cru is another demilitarized take on US Navy peacoat early models, blending elements of civilian vintage Mackinaw jackets and mid-century car coats.
The shell fabric of the “ROAMER Car Coat” was inspired by that of an old 1930s French “Velour d’Amiens” work jacket from our archives, a grade of heavy wide-wale cotton corduroy (gros velour côtelé) typical of vintage European working class meets country gentlemen garb.
Competing with the British Lancashire textile industry at the time, French mills established around the City of Amiens had been producing this workwear corduroy grade since the 18th Century. If some still refer to heavy corduroy fabric as Manchester in some parts of Europe, “Velour d’Amiens” is the term that is familiar to French old-timers.
Cosserat, a French mill founded around 1793, and one of the last velour côtelé manufacturer from Amiens, permanently closed its doors in 2012. With low-cost corduroy manufacturing coming out of China flooding the market, management of the long-standing Coserrat mill eventually gave up on restructuring attempts, and genuine “Velour d’Amiens” is sadly no longer manufactured.
For those interested in vintage European workwear, the latest issue of Eric Maggiori‘s excellent AVANT publication features insightful and well-illustrated interviews of several major collectors, photos of rare pieces and tutorials.

As we had done for the MATTOCK Jacket, we reached out to our friends at Toyo Enterprise to source-out a fabric reminiscent in texture and feel of traditional “Amiens” workwear corduroy. The specific “oxidized” black color of the original 1930’s French hunting coat was expertly matched by a Japanese dyehouse, and the resulting color has that je-ne-sais-quoi that looks authentic and vintage.

For the lining, we went with an American classic, a warm and soft wool blend insulating fabric sometimes referred to as “canteen blanket”, “Troy blanket”, or “Alaska blanket”. It is our first time featuring this particular olive green/grey dominant stripe blanket pattern.

The traditional double pocketing of the lining has been updated for the 21st Century by adjusting the size of the lower “cigarette pocket” to fit the average smart phone, rather than a pack of Lucky Strike. The combination of both old school low-tech fabrics gives the ROAMER an average resistance to cold, making it quite ideal during mid-seasons in temperate climates.
The choice of leather piping pocket openings and arrowhead pocket stops is a feature found on sought-after early Mackinaw coats. The black tea-core leather trim will age gracefully over time with normal wear.
For the double-breasted front closure, we opted for tonal classic tailoring corozo wood buttons. A discreet naval reference was kept, with the small foul anchor button holding the removable chin strap under the collar.

The Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, freely inspired by 1910’s -1930’s US Navy and US Coast Guard sailor wool peacoats of the early 10-button pattern, 1930’s-40’s vintage mackinaw-type outdoor coats, and blending New World and Old World flavors.

FABRIC
Shell: Heavy 14 Oz. wide-wale corduroy, “vintage” black color, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.
Lining: Soft-hand “Troy Blanket” wool blend fabric, 60% re-used wool, 28% cotton, 12% rayon). Woven in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Early US Navy peacoat double-breasted 10-button pattern.
* Two ‘hand warmer’ slash welt pockets, two hip pockets with flaps, all lined with golden brown cotton-wool blend corduroy.
* Inside lining chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket (resized into an iPhone-size pocket).
* Black tea-core leather piping on pocket opening and arrowhead reinforcement pocket stops.
* Vintage style stripe “Troy” blanket full lining.
* Removable chin strap (displaying either shell or lining fabric when left dangling, or fully-concealed when buttoned under the collar.)
* Traditional Zig-Zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching.
* Rear vent.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Designed in California.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® ROAMER Car Coat comes ready-to-wear and does not require any pre-treatment or soaking.
This jacket is considered true-to-size. We recommend getting your usual size in mfsc jackets. If you are a 38 in our Ranch Blouse or Campus pattern (granted they are pears and apples), you are most-likely a 38 in the ROAMER.
I opted for a medium, for a comfortable fit. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements. Do consider the thickness of the shell/lining combo when comparing these measurements to those of a jacket of a similar style that fits you well.

CARE:
Professional dry clean ONLY, from your local eco-friendly facility.

Available Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)