Mister Freedom® Continental “RIVE GAUCHE” Two-Piece Suit, Camel Brown 14 Oz. Corduroy, mfsc FW2020, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Continental Suit "Rive Gauche" FW2020

Mister Freedom® Continental Suit "Rive Gauche" FW2020

Mister Freedom® Continental Suit "Rive Gauche" FW2020

Mister Freedom® Continental Suit "Rive Gauche" FW2020

Mister Freedom® Continental Suit "Rive Gauche" FW2020

Mister Freedom® Continental Suit "Rive Gauche" FW2020

Mister Freedom® Continental Suit "Rive Gauche" FW2020

Mister Freedom® Continental Suit "Rive Gauche" FW2020

Mister Freedom® Continental “Rive Gauche” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat & Trousers), 14 Oz. corduroy.
FW2020 mfsc Sportsman catalog
Made in USA

The Continental Two-Piece Suit combines two of our popular classic patterns, the MF® Continental Sportcoat and Continental Trousers, both staples of our made-in-USA Sportsman catalog.

The unstructured blazer style of the MF® Continental Sportcoat was initially inspired by a vintage French 1950s cotton twill work coat, jazzed-up by our Design Dept sometime in 2016. The MF® Continental Trousers’ pattern introduced the same year drew inspiration from 50s-60s tailoring, vintage casual wear, and timeless slick silhouettes.

Released since in an array of NOS and Japan-milled fabrics, both sportcoat and trousers are quite versatile garments. Equally intended to be worn mismatched, as a two-piece suit, or paired with whatever one is comfortable with, the Mister Freedom® Continental series’ only commitment is to be stylish, flexible, travel-friendly (i.e. low-maintenance), and USA-made.

This FW2020 “Rive Gauche” edition features the same grade of 14 Oz. wide-wale corduroy of the 2019 Mattock Jacket, a fabric inspired by 1930s-40s French Velour d’Amiens and discussed here in its historical background. We couldn’t resist requesting another batch to be milled for the Continental suit.

Regarding semantics, “Rive Gauche” refers to the left bank of the Seine, splitting the City of Light in half. The famed river was instrumental in elevating Paris as France’s capital through the years. The city’s nautical motto “Fluctuat nec mergitur (something likerocked by waves but never sunk”) suggests Paris’ long and troubled history. Its “Rive Droite” (right bank, north of the river) has been perceived as conservative and upper class territory, while the “Rive Gauche” was more blue collar, attracting free-spirited intellectuals, artists… Those lines have obviously been blurred for decades, but still fiercely-debated at the “café du commerce”.

Bar-room politics aside, corduroy fabric has traditionally been associated with the working class in Europe, and its resurgence in French menswear in the late 1960s~1970s signaled a new popular appeal for “simple” values and “liberal” references in casual fashion.
A stereotype “prof de Géo” (Geography teacher) clad in a brown corduroy suit, Fair Isle sweater vest and red scarf, strolling around the Quartier Latin circa 1975, might ring a bell for some Parisian old timers.
Our “Rive-Gauche” two-piece carries that old school professor vibe, but will morph into anything according to how one styles it. The Sportcoat is cut quite trim and on the shorter side, for more of a 1930s vibe than the longer deep vent back of 1970s suit jackets.

The mfsc Continental “Rive-Gauche” Two-Piece Suit (Continental Sportcoat & Continental Trousers) in 14 Oz. wide-wade corduroy is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

Both “Rive-Gauche” Sportcoat &  Trousers are available separately. A 15% rebate will be applied at Paypal checkout when purchased as a two-piece set.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
14 Oz. Heavy wide-wale corduroy, 100% cotton, “vintage” cognac brown color, milled in Japan.
Pocketing & half lining/facing:  New Old Stock oatmeal color chambray with woven white stripe, linen-cotton blend, milled in EU.

Continental “Rive-Gauche” SPORTCOAT:
* Unstructured silhouette.
* Easy to pack and unfold, perfect traveling companion.
* Vintage-vibe high button front.
* Corozo wood buttons.
* Half shoulder floating lining, NOS cotton/linen stripe chambray.
* Side hip pockets with flaps.
* Pocket openings reinforced on the inside with facing fabric.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching, all clean caballo (chainstitch) flat-felled seam construction, green color “Sportsman” signature chainstitch on the inside. No open edges or overlock.
* Made in USA.

Continental “Rive-Gauche” TROUSERS:
* Elegant late 1950′s early 1960’s type silhouette and fit, straight leg.
* Corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Flat-felled (caballo) leg out seam.
* Rear welt pockets.
* Trousers-style belt loops.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* NOS cotton/linen stripe chambray pocket bags and waist band.
* Watch pocket.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstich MF® signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed when wearing a belt.
* Tailor shop-style unfinished overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT
This
 explains how we size our garments.
The Continental “Rive-Gauche” Sportcoat and trousers come raw/unwashed. We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process.
The tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. The subtle variation of shrinkage between body fabric/lining fabric/cotton thread will result in normal puckering and roping, slightly altering the fit and drape.

I personally opted for a snug Size 38 (Medium) in this corduroy Continental sportcoat, and a comfortable W32 trousers. These are my usual sizes in the Continental series and most mfsc garments. I am about 5’7 ~150 Lbs.

Sportcoat sizing:
This “Rive-Gauche” corduroy Sportcoat release is cut quite trim, and sizing-up might be an option for some, especially if one plans to layer with a sweater or thick shirt, or just wants a more relaxed/unstructured look. The cut is similar to that of the recent “Parisien” Sportcoat, with a trim/shorter silhouette typical of 1930s mens blazers. The shorter length might not be ideal for tall individuals not comfortable with a “period fit” and vintage silhouette.

Trousers sizing:
The Continental “Rive-Gauche” Trousers are true to size. If you are a measured waist 32 inches, you are most-likely a stamped W32 in these. The top block is fairly snug, with a slim thigh and straight leg. A W31 was too tight on me.
To accommodate fine tuning for the silhouette of your choice, we are releasing these in  a few select odd sizes too (W29, W31 and W33).
Please note that the Continental Trousers pattern might not be a good option for all body types. Proportion-wise, those with muscular legs will probably look better in our regular Sportsman Chino models.

Trousers hemming:
After the initial soak/hang dry process, we recommend settling down on the final length of the bottom hem after gently wearing the trousers around the house a bit. The cotton fabric tends to naturally bunch/wrinkle and pull the leg up slightly. Letting this specific fabric react to your own body for an hour or so will allow you to decide on a proper classic leg break that works for you.
I opted for a simple 1½ inch hem with no fold, with a slight break.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
(Fit pic wearing a size 38 jacket and W32 trousers.)

CARE:
Although low maintenance, both corduroy Sportcoat and Trousers should be considered as a delicate garments and treated with care.
We recommend professional dry-cleaning when needed.
Carefully hand washing in cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent and line dry is also an option.

Continental “Rive-Gauche” SPORTCOAT:
Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Continental “Rive-Gauche” TROUSERS:
Sizes (inseam length about 36’’, left un-cuffed):
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
36
38

Continental “Rive-Gauche” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat + Trousers): Any size combination available, 15% rebate issued during PayPal check out when purchased as a set.
Sportcoat and trousers are also available separately.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support, and be safe.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® “ROAMER” Car Coat, 14 Oz Wide-Wale Corduroy, mfsc FW2020 Surplus Catalog. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat ©2020

Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat, 14 Oz. wide-wale corduroy.
FW2020 mfsc SURPLUS Catalog.
Made in Japan.

We released our first take on the 1910s-30s classic melton wool US Navy 10-button front P-Jacket back in 2008, as part of the original “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” line-up. That classic pattern has turned out to be quite a Mister Freedom® chameleon over the years, as we’ve played with its appearance many times.

If the initial SS2008 release was cut from a 14½ Oz. SC301 “Okinawa” fiber denim, later versions have included the 2010 “Midnight P-Jacket” and its 2015 “Caban Peacoat” clone in a 16 Oz. dark indigo warp x black weft “Midnight” denim, the 2016 “Waterfront Coat” in an elegant natural linen/cotton HBT fabric, and finally the rugged 2017 “MAC Jacket” in US Army OG107 cotton-back sateen.

The vintage military P-Jacket (aka Peacoat) pattern has been discussed at length with each release on this blog, with this post going quite deep down the rabbit’s hole, for those interested in historical fashion tidbits and our understanding of Costume History.

This FW2020 cru is another demilitarized take on US Navy peacoat early models, blending elements of civilian vintage Mackinaw jackets and mid-century car coats.
The shell fabric of the “ROAMER Car Coat” was inspired by that of an old 1930s French “Velour d’Amiens” work jacket from our archives, a grade of heavy wide-wale cotton corduroy (gros velour côtelé) typical of vintage European working class meets country gentlemen garb.
Competing with the British Lancashire textile industry at the time, French mills established around the City of Amiens had been producing this workwear corduroy grade since the 18th Century. If some still refer to heavy corduroy fabric as Manchester in some parts of Europe, “Velour d’Amiens” is the term that is familiar to French old-timers.
Cosserat, a French mill founded around 1793, and one of the last velour côtelé manufacturer from Amiens, permanently closed its doors in 2012. With low-cost corduroy manufacturing coming out of China flooding the market, management of the long-standing Coserrat mill eventually gave up on restructuring attempts, and genuine “Velour d’Amiens” is sadly no longer manufactured.
For those interested in vintage European workwear, the latest issue of Eric Maggiori‘s excellent AVANT publication features insightful and well-illustrated interviews of several major collectors, photos of rare pieces and tutorials.

As we had done for the MATTOCK Jacket, we reached out to our friends at Toyo Enterprise to source-out a fabric reminiscent in texture and feel of traditional “Amiens” workwear corduroy. The specific “oxidized” black color of the original 1930’s French hunting coat was expertly matched by a Japanese dyehouse, and the resulting color has that je-ne-sais-quoi that looks authentic and vintage.

For the lining, we went with an American classic, a warm and soft wool blend insulating fabric sometimes referred to as “canteen blanket”, “Troy blanket”, or “Alaska blanket”. It is our first time featuring this particular olive green/grey dominant stripe blanket pattern.

The traditional double pocketing of the lining has been updated for the 21st Century by adjusting the size of the lower “cigarette pocket” to fit the average smart phone, rather than a pack of Lucky Strike. The combination of both old school low-tech fabrics gives the ROAMER an average resistance to cold, making it quite ideal during mid-seasons in temperate climates.
The choice of leather piping pocket openings and arrowhead pocket stops is a feature found on sought-after early Mackinaw coats. The black tea-core leather trim will age gracefully over time with normal wear.
For the double-breasted front closure, we opted for tonal classic tailoring corozo wood buttons. A discreet naval reference was kept, with the small foul anchor button holding the removable chin strap under the collar.

The Mister Freedom® ROAMER Car Coat is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, freely inspired by 1910’s -1930’s US Navy and US Coast Guard sailor wool peacoats of the early 10-button pattern, 1930’s-40’s vintage mackinaw-type outdoor coats, and blending New World and Old World flavors.

FABRIC
Shell: Heavy 14 Oz. wide-wale corduroy, “vintage” black color, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.
Lining: Soft-hand “Troy Blanket” wool blend fabric, 60% re-used wool, 28% cotton, 12% rayon). Woven in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Early US Navy peacoat double-breasted 10-button pattern.
* Two ‘hand warmer’ slash welt pockets, two hip pockets with flaps, all lined with golden brown cotton-wool blend corduroy.
* Inside lining chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket (resized into an iPhone-size pocket).
* Black tea-core leather piping on pocket opening and arrowhead reinforcement pocket stops.
* Vintage style stripe “Troy” blanket full lining.
* Removable chin strap (displaying either shell or lining fabric when left dangling, or fully-concealed when buttoned under the collar.)
* Traditional Zig-Zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching.
* Rear vent.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Designed in California.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® ROAMER Car Coat comes ready-to-wear and does not require any pre-treatment or soaking.
This jacket is considered true-to-size. We recommend getting your usual size in mfsc jackets. If you are a 38 in our Ranch Blouse or Campus pattern (granted they are pears and apples), you are most-likely a 38 in the ROAMER.
I opted for a medium, for a comfortable fit.  I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements. Do consider the thickness of the shell/lining combo when comparing these measurements to those of a jacket of a similar style that fits you well.

CARE:
Professional dry clean ONLY, from your local eco-friendly facility.

Available Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® SPEEDWAYS Cords, NOS Moss Green, FW2019 mfsc Sportsman Catalog, made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® SPEEDWAYS Cords, NOS Moss Green corduroy.
FW2019 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

Some of the readers might be familiar with our SPEEDWAYS pattern. Originally released in cream and black cotton piqué under the “Speedway Piqué Jeans” moniker during Fall 2011, a modified version (sans buckle-back and with a slightly more tapered leg) made it to our made-in-USA Sportsman catalog in 2015, as the Malibu’s, offered in light indigo ‘sea denim’ and wheat color ‘sand denim’.
The SPEEDWAYS made a come back in black in 2017, flashing a fancy NOS matte finish coated denim.
Our MF® tribute to late 50’s/early 60’s popular ‘stovepipe’ type jeans gets another make-over for Fall 2019, this time with a New Old Stock corduroy fabric, in a vintage moss green color. This is the original color of the fabric as we found it, and it has a definite sixties vibe.

The combination of slim leg, extended waistband tab with concealed snaps, and belt loops substituted by adjustable side tabs, seem to have been a 1960’s staple of California Cool, and a wardrobe favorite for iconic actors such as McQueen (see the familiar William Claxton early 1960’s Palm Spring photo sessions.) An early corduroy version of this pant style, albeit with a wider leg , can be seen in the steamy “Cat on a Hot Tin Roof” (1958), fashionably sported by another voguish man, Hollywood and racetrack legend Paul Newman.

If you are after non-five pocket casual jeans with a vintage slim leg, and appreciate the streamlined waistband look without belt loops, the SPEEDWAYS could be the ticket. They are among my favorite go-to trousers pattern of the MF® mfsc catalog, and I rarely travel without throwing a pair in my suitcase.

The mfsc SPEEDWAYS Cords are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock 100% cotton corduroy, mid-wale, sixties-vibe moss green color.
DETAILS:
* Inspired by late 50’s early 60’s ’stovepipe’ jeans and vintage casual trousers.
* Waistband snap tab à la McQueen, concealed closure snaps.
* Streamlined waistband sans belt loops.
* Side snap cinch tabs (adjusting waist by about 1½” when both tabs are fully cinched)
* New Old Stock pocket bags: fancy woven dobby stripes.
* Discreet denim-like ‘selvedge’ tape tab on waistband.
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”.
* Discreet “M” stitched rear pockets.
* Flat-felled seam ‘caballo’ construction, with Sportsman green color chainstitch accent.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Woven rayon MF® mfsc “Sportsman” label on inside waistband.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The SPEEDWAYS CORDS come raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual initial routine, cold soak for about 30~40mn, spin dry, hang dry.
These are true to size, with a somewhat generous waist (meaning a W32 measures a bit over 32 inches), and will settle to the tagged size following the above process.

I am usually between a w30 and W32 in mfsc pants, and I’m in luck since the Speedways come in W31. According to waistline fluctuations, I cinch one or both side tabs, which keeps the pants up.
The bottom hem is done by single needle machine, not chainstitch, an easy operation for your local alteration place. As a matter of personal preference with this Speedways pattern, I opted for the sixties-vibe “flood” look with no trousers break. To each his own, but we do not recommend cuffing these with jeans rolls.
When deciding which length works for you before alteration, especially if you are planning to heat-dry these in the future, consider the potential extra shrinkage of the leg seams (due to the 100% cotton thread caballo stitching) which will bunch the fabric and pull-up the inseam noticeably.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw and cold-soaked/hang dry measurements.

CARE:
Launder when necessary. These are low maintenance but should be turned inside-out to avoid potential fabric marbling.
Wash in cold water, gentle cycle, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Waist 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36, 38.

Available from our Los Angeles red brick HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

 

 

 

Mister Freedom® MATTOCK Jacket, Camel Brown 14 Oz. Corduroy, FW2019 mfsc Surplus Catalog. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® “MATTOCK” Jacket, 14 Oz. corduroy.
FW2019 mfsc Surplus catalog.

Made in Japan.

The MF® MATTOCK jacket got its moniker from the classic vintage mackinaw coat that inspired our original design. The inspirational piece, an old 1940’s wool plaid jacket, bore two labels. One barely-readable, featuring what looks like the familiar white sheep trademark of its maker, WOOLRICH®, and one sewn-on by the original owner, a certain Ray Mattock.

Our ‘interpretation’ ended-up having very little in common with the vintage red/black buffalo plaid garment, so we just kept half the name.

For those inclined, what follows are the usual ramblings about the design process, and how we turned a classic piece of Americana into a jambalaya of Old and New World à la MF®.

The Mattock features details inspired by early American and French workwear/outdoor jackets, blended into a classic mfsc vintage “might have been.” On that note, should our Mattock pop-up in the collection of an inspired contemporary fashion label next season, as “designers” sometimes assume we simply lift patterns verbatim from vintage garment, we would of feel nothing short of tremendously flattered.

The shell fabric we opted for is reminiscent of vintage “Velour d’Amiens”, a type of heavy wide-wale cotton corduroy that the connoisseur of old 1930’s~40’s French outdoor/work/hunting garments will be familiar with.
Sadly, the grade of high-quality sturdy corduroy that originated in Amiens, France, sometime in the 18th Century, is no longer being manufactured. Cosserat, a textile mill founded around 1793 and one of the last
velour côtelé manufacturer from Amiens, permanently closed its doors in 2012. After several restructuring attempts, and with low-cost corduroy manufacturing coming out of China flooding the market, management of the long-standing Coserrat mill eventually gave up. Another collateral damage of the average consumers’ addiction to a plethora of cheap disposable garments rather than a curated and durable wardrobe.

For this project, our friends at Toyo Enterprise sourced a cord fabric that is somewhat reminiscent in texture of traditional Amiens workwear corduroy. We opted for a rich camel brown color, expertly matched by a Japanese dyehouse to the specific shade of brown of a 1930’s vintage French hunting coat from our archives.

The French vibe was then “americanized” by lining our jacket with a striped “Troy” blanket, sometimes referred to as “Alaska” blanket.

The choice of removable “shank” (or “ring”) buttons, is a nod to the original mfsc front closure of our McKarsten jacket. Instead of stitched eyelets, we went for metal grommets, a feature that I have personally never seen on vintage jackets but probably already exists.

We worked out a chin strap in the top closure, played with facing and lining on the collar, threw in some attractive patina-prone leather trim accents, and spiced-up the jambalaya with mismatched pocket lining. We used Sugar Cane Co vintage replica woven plaids, left-over yardage from recent heavy cotton flannel Toyo production. This concealed feature is sometimes seen on vintage pieces, when linings and pocketing could be cut from whatever surplus fabric was on hand, to save on production costs and delays.

Time to end this novel by mentioning that the upside-down neck labeling featured on above product photos was the funny blooper of an early prototype. Production differs, unless you get lucky and score a rare and collectible UFO that eluded QC.

The MF® Mattock Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by 1930’s~1940’s mackinaw jackets and vintage outdoor coats, blending New World and Old World flavors.

FABRIC
Shell: 14 Oz. Heavy wide-wale corduroy, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.
Lining: Soft-hand “Troy Blanket” wool blend fabric, 60% re-used wool, 28% cotton, 12% rayon). Woven in Japan.

DETAILS:

  • All original mfsc pattern.
  • Full “Troy” recycled wool blend blanket lining.
  • Leather trim accents on pockets and cuffs.
  • Four pocket front, hand warmer and flap slash pockets combo.
  • Pocket linings cut from mismatched vintage-style cotton woven plaid heavy flannel.
  • Original mfsc removable painted brass “shank” buttons.
  • Rear cinch tabs.
  • Chin strap.
  • Original mfsc “Surplus” rayon woven label.
  • Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® MATTOCK Jacket comes raw/un-rinsed, and can be worn as-is as it is true-to-size and does not need to shrink to fit.
For a subtle puckering of the stitching and fabric torque, with minor to unnoticeable shrinkage, the jacket can be cold soaked for 30mn, spun dry and line dried.

Do not use a full washing cycle or heat dryer.

I wear size 38 in most mfsc jackets and opted for a size 38 in the Mattock, for a trim yet comfortable fit. Refer to sizing chart for raw measurements, with our measuring method explained here.
To figure out which size will best work for you, a good system is to compare our measurements with those of a similar, lined, ¾ length jacket you own and that fits you well.

CHART

CARE:
Professional dry cleaning recommended, at an eco-friendly facility familiar with leather-trimmed garments.
This is quite a heavy jacket that might get damaged if laundered in a home washing machine.
Remove all shank buttons before cleaning.

Available Sizes:
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (XLarge)
44 (XXLarge)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

 

Mister Freedom® CONDUCTOR Jacket, “cachou” Duck Canvas, Sportsman Catalog mfsc Fall 2018, Made in USA.

MF® CONDUCTOR Jacket, “cachou” Duck Canvas.
Sportsman Catalog, Fall 2018
Made in USA.

The MF® CONDUCTOR pattern, a fancy denim jacket style for the caboose-inclined and vintage iron horse connoisseur, was originally added to our ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog in the Spring of 2017.

During the early days of R&D, our aim was a work jacket design standing out from other traditional chore coats, engineer jacket, railroad jackets, farmer jackets of the same family. We grabbed a few pointers from our 1920’s-inspired Loco Jacket (“Viva La Revolución”, Spring 2013), and built the CONDUCTOR from scratch, with all original pocket designs and details. Blending elegant tailoring touches with vintage workwear functional ruggedness, we cooked-up a garment with both rugged trainman and gentleman passenger in mind. Our Conductor Jacket makes it easy to switch from shoveling coal to sipping a libation at the plush red velvet wagon-bar, with the usual MF® grain of salt.

The original release of the Conductor was in a favorite fabric of ours, the “Malibu Sea” denim. It was followed by a Spring 2018 version cut from a vintage New Old Stock hickory stripe twill.

For this third iteration, we developed a brown cotton duck canvas inspired by vintage specimens of  French 1930’s – 1950’s outdoor and military garments. Similar yet distinct from early US duck canvases typical of classic American hunting gear (and definitely different from the average modern duck canvas), our fabric features a crispy selvedge canvas dyed in the classic French “cachou” color.

Cachou” is a vegetable extract that the French are found of, particularly in the form of licorice candies. In Southern France, locals often reach an emotional climax when managing to share one of these little black mints with a tourist keen on fully embracing the culture. The immediate gagging grimace on the first-timer is a prized reward for the Frenchman. Cachou mints are an acquired taste.
For our local patrons, free cachou tasting at the MF® HQ, 11-6 daily.

Rich in tanins and pigments, the cachou extract has been traditionally used for dyeing ship sails and other textiles since the 1830’s. As a pigment, it produces a range of rich and warm reddish brown hue, a particular color familiar to the collector of French vintage military accoutrements, old forest ranger workwear, traditional hunting gear, etc…

With the invaluable help of our friends and textile experts at Toyo Enterprises, we managed to replicate this cachou color, along with its beautiful fading quality. The base fabric is a dry hand tightly-woven 100% cotton selvedge canvas, milled and dyed in Japan.

We paired our duck conductor with a classic corduroy collar, same corduroy grade used as pocket warmer on vintage USN peacoats. For a handsome concealed contrast, we selected an indigo/white NOS woven check twill for pocket facing, visible on the inside chest pocket and as pocket lining.

The Conductor Jacket is designed by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Body: Sturdy and crispy 100% cotton duck canvas, selvedge, brown ‘cachou’ color, milled and dyed in Japan.
Collar Facing: Amber brown wide whale cotton corduroy.
Pocket Facing: NOS indigo/white woven check twill

DETAILS:
* An all original mfsc pattern inspired by early American workwear and European tailoring, vintage 1920’s-30’s chore coats and denim engineer jackets.
* Four original MF® pocket-shape designs.
* Elegant front panel cut-away design.
* Double duty chest pocketing, with watch compartment on left side.
* Pockets lined/half-lined with NOS indigo/white woven check twill.
* Inside iPhone chest pocket.
* Original Mister Freedom® oxidized brass shank buttons.
* Collar chin strap secured with oxidized black donut button.
* Split back panel, displaying selvedge ID.
* Selvedge front panel facing, cuffs and watch pocket opening slit.
* Side cinch straps, French NOS metal buckles.
* Copper riveted cuff openings.
* Contrasting green chainstitch, bar-tacks and button holes.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Conductor Jacket comes UN-WASHED (=raw) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend our usual method for raw cotton garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
Following this initial routine, the garment will stiffen when dry, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and the ‘crispiness’ will subside with normal wear.

I opted for a size 38 (Medium), for a relaxed fit. I could fit a size 36 but preferred having the option to layer in colder weather.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash garment inside out to avoid marbling, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Due to the specific nature of the garment dye, the cachou canvas will gradually fade overtime with normal wear and repeat washing. For a natural patina, do not try to overwash but enjoy instead wearing your garment.

Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018