Mister Freedom® SPEEDWAYS Cords, NOS Moss Green, FW2019 mfsc Sportsman Catalog, made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® SPEEDWAYS Cords, NOS Moss Green corduroy.
FW2019 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

Some of the readers might be familiar with our SPEEDWAYS pattern. Originally released in cream and black cotton piqué under the “Speedway Piqué Jeans” moniker during Fall 2011, a modified version (sans buckle-back and with a slightly more tapered leg) made it to our made-in-USA Sportsman catalog in 2015, as the Malibu’s, offered in light indigo ‘sea denim’ and wheat color ‘sand denim’.
The SPEEDWAYS made a come back in black in 2017, flashing a fancy NOS matte finish coated denim.
Our MF® tribute to late 50’s/early 60’s popular ‘stovepipe’ type jeans gets another make-over for Fall 2019, this time with a New Old Stock corduroy fabric, in a vintage moss green color. This is the original color of the fabric as we found it, and it has a definite sixties vibe.

The combination of slim leg, extended waistband tab with concealed snaps, and belt loops substituted by adjustable side tabs, seem to have been a 1960’s staple of California Cool, and a wardrobe favorite for iconic actors such as McQueen (see the familiar William Claxton early 1960’s Palm Spring photo sessions.) An early corduroy version of this pant style, albeit with a wider leg , can be seen in the steamy “Cat on a Hot Tin Roof” (1958), fashionably sported by another voguish man, Hollywood and racetrack legend Paul Newman.

If you are after non-five pocket casual jeans with a vintage slim leg, and appreciate the streamlined waistband look without belt loops, the SPEEDWAYS could be the ticket. They are among my favorite go-to trousers pattern of the MF® mfsc catalog, and I rarely travel without throwing a pair in my suitcase.

The mfsc SPEEDWAYS Cords are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock 100% cotton corduroy, mid-wale, sixties-vibe moss green color.
DETAILS:
* Inspired by late 50’s early 60’s ’stovepipe’ jeans and vintage casual trousers.
* Waistband snap tab à la McQueen, concealed closure snaps.
* Streamlined waistband sans belt loops.
* Side snap cinch tabs (adjusting waist by about 1½” when both tabs are fully cinched)
* New Old Stock pocket bags: fancy woven dobby stripes.
* Discreet denim-like ‘selvedge’ tape tab on waistband.
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”.
* Discreet “M” stitched rear pockets.
* Flat-felled seam ‘caballo’ construction, with Sportsman green color chainstitch accent.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Woven rayon MF® mfsc “Sportsman” label on inside waistband.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The SPEEDWAYS CORDS come raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual initial routine, cold soak for about 30~40mn, spin dry, hang dry.
These are true to size, with a somewhat generous waist (meaning a W32 measures a bit over 32 inches), and will settle to the tagged size following the above process.

I am usually between a w30 and W32 in mfsc pants, and I’m in luck since the Speedways come in W31. According to waistline fluctuations, I cinch one or both side tabs, which keeps the pants up.
The bottom hem is done by single needle machine, not chainstitch, an easy operation for your local alteration place. As a matter of personal preference with this Speedways pattern, I opted for the sixties-vibe “flood” look with no trousers break. To each his own, but we do not recommend cuffing these with jeans rolls.
When deciding which length works for you before alteration, especially if you are planning to heat-dry these in the future, consider the potential extra shrinkage of the leg seams (due to the 100% cotton thread caballo stitching) which will bunch the fabric and pull-up the inseam noticeably.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw and cold-soaked/hang dry measurements.

CARE:
Launder when necessary. These are low maintenance but should be turned inside-out to avoid potential fabric marbling.
Wash in cold water, gentle cycle, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Waist 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36, 38.

Available from our Los Angeles red brick HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

 

 

 

Mister Freedom® MATTOCK Jacket, Camel Brown 14 Oz. Corduroy, FW2019 mfsc Surplus Catalog. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® “MATTOCK” Jacket, 14 Oz. corduroy.
FW2019 mfsc Surplus catalog.

Made in Japan.

The MF® MATTOCK jacket got its moniker from the classic vintage mackinaw coat that inspired our original design. The inspirational piece, an old 1940’s wool plaid jacket, bore two labels. One barely-readable, featuring what looks like the familiar white sheep trademark of its maker, WOOLRICH®, and one sewn-on by the original owner, a certain Ray Mattock.

Our ‘interpretation’ ended-up having very little in common with the vintage red/black buffalo plaid garment, so we just kept half the name.

For those inclined, what follows are the usual ramblings about the design process, and how we turned a classic piece of Americana into a jambalaya of Old and New World à la MF®.

The Mattock features details inspired by early American and French workwear/outdoor jackets, blended into a classic mfsc vintage “might have been.” On that note, should our Mattock pop-up in the collection of an inspired contemporary fashion label next season, as “designers” sometimes assume we simply lift patterns verbatim from vintage garment, we would of feel nothing short of tremendously flattered.

The shell fabric we opted for is reminiscent of vintage “Velour d’Amiens”, a type of heavy wide-wale cotton corduroy that the connoisseur of old 1930’s~40’s French outdoor/work/hunting garments will be familiar with.
Sadly, the grade of high-quality sturdy corduroy that originated in Amiens, France, sometime in the 18th Century, is no longer being manufactured. Cosserat, a textile mill founded around 1793 and one of the last
velour côtelé manufacturer from Amiens, permanently closed its doors in 2012. After several restructuring attempts, and with low-cost corduroy manufacturing coming out of China flooding the market, management of the long-standing Coserrat mill eventually gave up. Another collateral damage of the average consumers’ addiction to a plethora of cheap disposable garments rather than a curated and durable wardrobe.

For this project, our friends at Toyo Enterprise sourced a cord fabric that is somewhat reminiscent in texture of traditional Amiens workwear corduroy. We opted for a rich camel brown color, expertly matched by a Japanese dyehouse to the specific shade of brown of a 1930’s vintage French hunting coat from our archives.

The French vibe was then “americanized” by lining our jacket with a striped “Troy” blanket, sometimes referred to as “Alaska” blanket.

The choice of removable “shank” (or “ring”) buttons, is a nod to the original mfsc front closure of our McKarsten jacket. Instead of stitched eyelets, we went for metal grommets, a feature that I have personally never seen on vintage jackets but probably already exists.

We worked out a chin strap in the top closure, played with facing and lining on the collar, threw in some attractive patina-prone leather trim accents, and spiced-up the jambalaya with mismatched pocket lining. We used Sugar Cane Co vintage replica woven plaids, left-over yardage from recent heavy cotton flannel Toyo production. This concealed feature is sometimes seen on vintage pieces, when linings and pocketing could be cut from whatever surplus fabric was on hand, to save on production costs and delays.

Time to end this novel by mentioning that the upside-down neck labeling featured on above product photos was the funny blooper of an early prototype. Production differs, unless you get lucky and score a rare and collectible UFO that eluded QC.

The MF® Mattock Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by 1930’s~1940’s mackinaw jackets and vintage outdoor coats, blending New World and Old World flavors.

FABRIC
Shell: 14 Oz. Heavy wide-wale corduroy, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.
Lining: Soft-hand “Troy Blanket” wool blend fabric, 60% re-used wool, 28% cotton, 12% rayon). Woven in Japan.

DETAILS:

  • All original mfsc pattern.
  • Full “Troy” recycled wool blend blanket lining.
  • Leather trim accents on pockets and cuffs.
  • Four pocket front, hand warmer and flap slash pockets combo.
  • Pocket linings cut from mismatched vintage-style cotton woven plaid heavy flannel.
  • Original mfsc removable painted brass “shank” buttons.
  • Rear cinch tabs.
  • Chin strap.
  • Original mfsc “Surplus” rayon woven label.
  • Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® MATTOCK Jacket comes raw/un-rinsed, and can be worn as-is as it is true-to-size and does not need to shrink to fit.
For a subtle puckering of the stitching and fabric torque, with minor to unnoticeable shrinkage, the jacket can be cold soaked for 30mn, spun dry and line dried.

Do not use a full washing cycle or heat dryer.

I wear size 38 in most mfsc jackets and opted for a size 38 in the Mattock, for a trim yet comfortable fit. Refer to sizing chart for raw measurements, with our measuring method explained here.
To figure out which size will best work for you, a good system is to compare our measurements with those of a similar, lined, ¾ length jacket you own and that fits you well.

CHART

CARE:
Professional dry cleaning recommended, at an eco-friendly facility familiar with leather-trimmed garments.
This is quite a heavy jacket that might get damaged if laundered in a home washing machine.
Remove all shank buttons before cleaning.

Available Sizes:
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (XLarge)
44 (XXLarge)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

 

Mister Freedom® CONDUCTOR Jacket, “cachou” Duck Canvas, Sportsman Catalog mfsc Fall 2018, Made in USA.

MF® CONDUCTOR Jacket, “cachou” Duck Canvas.
Sportsman Catalog, Fall 2018
Made in USA.

The MF® CONDUCTOR pattern, a fancy denim jacket style for the caboose-inclined and vintage iron horse connoisseur, was originally added to our ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog in the Spring of 2017.

During the early days of R&D, our aim was a work jacket design standing out from other traditional chore coats, engineer jacket, railroad jackets, farmer jackets of the same family. We grabbed a few pointers from our 1920’s-inspired Loco Jacket (“Viva La Revolución”, Spring 2013), and built the CONDUCTOR from scratch, with all original pocket designs and details. Blending elegant tailoring touches with vintage workwear functional ruggedness, we cooked-up a garment with both rugged trainman and gentleman passenger in mind. Our Conductor Jacket makes it easy to switch from shoveling coal to sipping a libation at the plush red velvet wagon-bar, with the usual MF® grain of salt.

The original release of the Conductor was in a favorite fabric of ours, the “Malibu Sea” denim. It was followed by a Spring 2018 version cut from a vintage New Old Stock hickory stripe twill.

For this third iteration, we developed a brown cotton duck canvas inspired by vintage specimens of  French 1930’s – 1950’s outdoor and military garments. Similar yet distinct from early US duck canvases typical of classic American hunting gear (and definitely different from the average modern duck canvas), our fabric features a crispy selvedge canvas dyed in the classic French “cachou” color.

Cachou” is a vegetable extract that the French are found of, particularly in the form of licorice candies. In Southern France, locals often reach an emotional climax when managing to share one of these little black mints with a tourist keen on fully embracing the culture. The immediate gagging grimace on the first-timer is a prized reward for the Frenchman. Cachou mints are an acquired taste.
For our local patrons, free cachou tasting at the MF® HQ, 11-6 daily.

Rich in tanins and pigments, the cachou extract has been traditionally used for dyeing ship sails and other textiles since the 1830’s. As a pigment, it produces a range of rich and warm reddish brown hue, a particular color familiar to the collector of French vintage military accoutrements, old forest ranger workwear, traditional hunting gear, etc…

With the invaluable help of our friends and textile experts at Toyo Enterprises, we managed to replicate this cachou color, along with its beautiful fading quality. The base fabric is a dry hand tightly-woven 100% cotton selvedge canvas, milled and dyed in Japan.

We paired our duck conductor with a classic corduroy collar, same corduroy grade used as pocket warmer on vintage USN peacoats. For a handsome concealed contrast, we selected an indigo/white NOS woven check twill for pocket facing, visible on the inside chest pocket and as pocket lining.

The Conductor Jacket is designed by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Body: Sturdy and crispy 100% cotton duck canvas, selvedge, brown ‘cachou’ color, milled and dyed in Japan.
Collar Facing: Amber brown wide whale cotton corduroy.
Pocket Facing: NOS indigo/white woven check twill

DETAILS:
* An all original mfsc pattern inspired by early American workwear and European tailoring, vintage 1920’s-30’s chore coats and denim engineer jackets.
* Four original MF® pocket-shape designs.
* Elegant front panel cut-away design.
* Double duty chest pocketing, with watch compartment on left side.
* Pockets lined/half-lined with NOS indigo/white woven check twill.
* Inside iPhone chest pocket.
* Original Mister Freedom® oxidized brass shank buttons.
* Collar chin strap secured with oxidized black donut button.
* Split back panel, displaying selvedge ID.
* Selvedge front panel facing, cuffs and watch pocket opening slit.
* Side cinch straps, French NOS metal buckles.
* Copper riveted cuff openings.
* Contrasting green chainstitch, bar-tacks and button holes.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Conductor Jacket comes UN-WASHED (=raw) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend our usual method for raw cotton garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
Following this initial routine, the garment will stiffen when dry, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and the ‘crispiness’ will subside with normal wear.

I opted for a size 38 (Medium), for a relaxed fit. I could fit a size 36 but preferred having the option to layer in colder weather.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash garment inside out to avoid marbling, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Due to the specific nature of the garment dye, the cachou canvas will gradually fade overtime with normal wear and repeat washing. For a natural patina, do not try to overwash but enjoy instead wearing your garment.

Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

“El Americano” Waistcoat. Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection

El Americano Waistcoat Mister Freedom® ©2013

 

El Americano Waistcoat Mister Freedom® ©2013

 

 

“El Americano” Waistcoat
Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection

 

We introduced the concept behind our “Viva la Revolución” mfsc Collection during Spring 2013.

For the first chapter of this on-going saga for Fall 2013, let’s welcome a new character, el Americano...
Aptly nicknamed due to his whereabouts North of the Rio Grande, not for his barista skills, our gringo fought alongside Mexican revolutionaries during the 1910-1920 Revolution.
More often for financial gratification than ideological convictions, foreign soldiers of fortune from around the World joined the ranks of the Maderistas, Villistas and other rebel armies. They earned nicknames as colorful as ‘Dynamite Slim’ or ‘El Diablo’, which allowed them to keep the greetings of an introduction brief…

El Americano was special. Unlike some of his compañeros of the ‘Gringo Rag-Tag Battalion‘, and although a feared fighter, he fancied being stylishly clad at all times. As others remarked on his unlikely field attire, he would retort: “Hombre, I always dress to kill.”
Someone sneered, once. Just once.
Such the poet was El Americano.

Anyways, back to the reality of 2013…
Our “El Americano” waistcoat was inspired by several vintage early 1900’s European fancy pieces. Its lapel style is often a trademark of early Old West portrait photography. The pattern is a combination of fancy tailoring tricks and details.
We have developed no less than 4 entirely different fabrics for this waistcoat, all milled and dyed in Japan exclusively for mfsc. These options are:
a) Brown Duck, golden brown cotton sateen back.
b) Grey Covert Stripe, black cotton sateen back.
c) Indigo dyed Corduroy, black cotton sateen back.

The last developed fabric is an indigo yarn covert twill that was originally the lining of a pair of gentlemen’s trousers from the 1890’s. The most unlikely sight, although I’ve seen quite my share of unusual textiles used as linings in early tailoring. I always love discovering ‘hidden treasures’ when opening up a vintage garment, such as a ‘crazy’ lining in a formal piece. They were often not a fashion statement, rather the need to use up fabric left over from a previous project, at times when discarding perfectly fine supplies was not a National sport.

Vintage inspiration Mister Freedom® ©2013 (19)

Vintage trousers lining

This 8.5 Oz. selvedge indigo fabric is the inner lining of “El Americano”, for its three options.
The outer back piece is a tightly woven 100% cotton sateen, matching the body.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in small ethically run factories in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by early European style tailored waistcoats typical of early Old West attire.

FABRICS
a) Brown Duck : selvedge 100% cotton canvas, 13 Oz.
The inside part of the yarn being lighter in color than the outside of the yarn (same as that of the 1930’s hunting jacket with its amazing patina that inspired it) this fabric will age nicely with repeat wear.
b) Grey Covert Stripe: selvedge 60% cotton and 40% linen heavy canvas with a random stripe pattern. The random repeat makes this fabric look halfway between a covert (salt & pepper) and stripe type textile. Technically 12 Oz. it feels heavier because of the yarn gauge. It takes an entire day to mill about 17 meters of that fabric, on old shuttle looms. The factory was thrilled…
Fabric inspired by a vintage 1943 bag from the Swiss military. Yes, we look everywhere for inspiration. The only place off limit being what other contemporary brands do.
c) Indigo Corduroy: Mid wale 100% cotton corduroy. 14.5 Oz. Indigo vat dyed.

DETAILS
* Slim silhouette, Old West waistcoat style. Angled front panels and curved back vented one-piece panel.
* Small round lapel
* Off-set shoulder construction
* High buttoned style (7 buttons).
* Three front pockets
* 100% cotton sateen tonal back panel.
* Underarm gusset.
* Engraved coconut wood buttons, aka ivory nut, aka corozo (and no, not chorizo as my spell check suggests.)
* Full adjustable cinch back with French vintage New Old Stock metal slide buckle.
* Unbleached cotton sail cloth pocket lining.
*100% cotton tonal stitching.

SIZING/WASHING
All fabrics will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold soak and hang dry.
The reason for the original cold soak/dry is purely aesthetic. I like the natural torque/twisting of the fabric that gets rid of that desirable fresh-off-the-shelf look. As your waistcoat dries, fold and shape the collar to your liking, for a skinnier or fatter lapel (see the difference on the fit pix.)

For the Indigo Corduroy “El Americano” waistcoat, some crocking is to be expected when pairing with light colored garments, or sleeping face down on a fancy white sofa fully clothed.
Indigo ‘stains’ from rubbing wash off eventually.

I am usually a 38/medium and wear a 38 “El Americano” waistcoat.
True to size but refer to chart for rinsed/hang dry measurements.
Do not use hot water or machine dryer as this might result in excessive shrinkage.

El Americano Waistcoat Mister Freedom®

Available raw/unwashed
Sizes
36
small
38 medium
40 large
42 Xlarge
44 XXlarge

Retail:
a)
Brown Duck $439.95
b)
Grey Covert Stripe $439.95
c)
Indigo Corduroy $459.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Call the store at 323-653-2014 with any questions not answered above, or mail sales@misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support.

Mister Freedom® Fall 2013 preview “Viva la Revolución” MFSC Collection

Mister Freedom® Fall 2013 LookBook ©2013

 

Mister Freedom® Fall 2013 LookBook ©2013

Mister Freedom® Fall 2013 LookBook ©2013

Mister Freedom® Fall 2013 LookBook ©2013

 

Introducing the second chapter of our collaboration collection with Sugar Cane Co “Viva la Revolución”. This Fall/Winter volume follows the previously Spring/Summer story you can read about here.
As always, the inspiration for this collection is quite eclectic, near and far from the Rio Grande in the first thirty years of the 20th Century.  I will turn to full rambling mode for each item as production hits our HQ, sometime in Sept/Oct 2013.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

The Fall 2013 line up will include:

* “EL AMERICANO” Jacket:
Three different fabrics
a) Brown duck selvedge canvas
b) Indigo dyed wide wale Corduroy
c) Grey ‘stripe’ heavy canvas

* “EL AMERICANO” Trousers:
Three different fabric a) b) c)

* “EL AMERICANO” Waistcoat:
Three different fabric a) b) c)

* “DROVER BLOUSE”:
A special edition in indigo dyed Melton wool.

* “RANCHERO” Shirt:
Two different fabrics
a) Indigo/Red woven plaid, cotton-linen selvedge
b) Indigo covert, selvedge

* “EL JEFFE” Henley (no, it’s not a sweater):
Two different fabrics
a) Natural heather brushed cotton fleece.
b) Gray heather brushed cotton fleece.

Muchas Gracias Friends 😉