Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE & CALIFORNIAN Lot.64md, 16 Oz. Midnight Denim edition, mfsc FW2019, made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE & CALIFORNIAN Lot.64MD, 16 Oz. selvedge “Midnight Denim”.
FW2019 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

We are excited to release this anticipated combo for FW2019, our staple Californian Lot.64 and Ranch Blouse patterns in a smashing 16 Oz. “Midnight Denim” (MD)!
This original mfsc fabric was previously featured on the 2015 MF® Caban Peacoat, and we couldn’t wait to get a fresh new batch milled again for this 2019 project. The dark indigo warp and black weft give this twill an almost solid black appearance, enhanced by deep blue undertones and by the prospect of a very attractive indigo patina developing overtime.

Our classic Ranch Blouse (drafted sometime back in 2010) and Californian Lot.64 pattern are consistent with previous iterations available here, so I will spare the reader the usual lengthy introduction. Whether going for the full matching top/bottom ‘Man-in-Black’ look, or pairing either piece with traditional blue denim, this “Midnight” combo is versatile and classic enough to keep you on the cool side of the street for some time.

The “Midnight” Ranch Blouse and Californian LOT.64MD (available separately) are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from denim fabric milled in Japan.
SPECS
Fabric:
16 Oz. “Midnight” Denim, dark indigo warp x black weft, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Pocketing/facing: NOS 10.5 Oz. crosshatch “PLAYER” denim twill, light indigo moss blue-green color, cotton-linen blend, EU origin.

“Midnight” RANCH BLOUSE:
DETAILS:
* Early round-type collar, A-1 style.
* ‘Vintage’ boxy but fit silhouette.
* Pleated front with original MF® arrowhead dart stitching.
* Original MF® “M” stitching on chest pockets.
* Single pocket flap.
* Selvedge front panel fold.
* NOS moss blue denim twill facing for collar and pocket flap.
* Brass cast MF® branded tack buttons.
* Buckle back, concealed selvedge strap, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked hardware with backing leather washer.
* Subtly contrasting two-tone stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* MF® branded black tea-core leather patch on rear waist band.
* Original mfsc printed “Buckaroo” cloth label.
* Made in USA

SIZING FIT:
The “Midnight” Ranch Blouse comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

I wear my usual Ranch Blouse size in this “Midnight” edition, a cold-soaked 38. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

Available Raw/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
34 X-small
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large

 

“Midnight” CALIFORNIAN Lot.64MD:
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS moss blue denim twill pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* MF® branded black tea-core leather patch on rear pocket.
* Subtly contrasting two-tone stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Combination of brass/silver original MF® branded metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper black “MD” pocket flasher.
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The “Midnight” Californian LOT.64MD blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I opted for a W31 with this model (I am usually a W32 in MF® Californians), for a comfortable fit with a snug top block and straight leg silhouette.
As with all denim twills, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.

Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36

DENIM CARE:
The specific “Midnight” denim features dark indigo warp (the color visible on face of the fabric) combined with a black weft (visible on the reverse.) As with all indigo-dyed denim, croaking (bleeding) is to be expected. The indigo color will rub on light color garments and furniture. The black will not rub.

Wash denim jeans and jackets when needed. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom® “Californian” LOT.54BB, New Old Stock Cone Mills selvedge denim, FW2019 mfsc Sportsman catalog. Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.54BB
NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. Selvedge Denim.
mfsc Sportman catalog FW2019.
Made in USA.

Sometime in 2010, we released our first-born “Californian” into the wild. This was the MF® Californian LOT.54 blue jeans, all made in USA, cut from a New Old Stock Cone Mills 12 Oz. selvedge denim. If our initial contribution to the crowded world of the classic five-pocket jeans had absolutely zero impact on the Xintang denim industry, it is always a treat for us to spot one of our “M” and pocket patch in a crowd. Many thanks to everyone who adopted the “Californian” over the years, we know there are many options out there.
After the LOT.54’s success, followed a “spectacular plethora” (dixit our friend Daniel) of releases and fits, in a timeline outlined here.

For Fall 2019, we dusted-off that old LOT.54 pattern and paired it with another NOS Cone Mills goodie, a handsome 13Oz. denim twill with an old-school indigo blue hue warp, and a white/red line selvedge ID.
We borrowed the buckle-back cinch of the LOT.44, slapped it on there, and are calling this release the LOT.54BB. We tricked-out the rear by incorporating our classic Buckaroos printed cloth patch under the back cinch strap, traditionally stitching the label on top of the waistband/back-yoke but under the center belt loop.
Another cosmetic detail is the addition of an inside blank “name tag” attached to the pocket bag, opposite of the traditional coin pocket, for no other reason than finding the outside display of yellow/orange/white contrast stitching quite attractive. We’re vain like that.
The pocket bags of this 2019 edition are cut from a sturdy NOS cotton canvas, in a complementing warm rusty red color.

The fit of the Californian LOT.54BB is similar to the original LOT.54, with a roomy leg, generous waist and high rise, for those into a fuller 40’s-50’s period silhouette. If after a slimmer leg, but still with a vintage vibe, please see our more tapered Californians LOT.64, LOT.74 and LOT.674.

The Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.54BB are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 13 Oz. indigo twill denim, white/red line selvedge ID, with a traditional indigo blue hue warp.
Pocket Bags: NOS 100% cotton canvas, rusty red color.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Traditional selvedge leg outseam.
* Buckle-back cinch strap, with concealed denim selvedge.
* New Old Stock cotton canvas pocket bags, rusty red color.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* “Buckaroos” printed cloth label stitched under cinch and rear belt loop.
* Inside “name tag” cloth label.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly shank buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® yellow paper pocket flasher.
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT.54BB comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. For instance, a tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.

We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
* Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
* Spin dry and line dry.
* Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

This specific 13 Oz. Cone Mills denim twill is considered sanforized (= pre-shrunk at the milling stage), so our usual recommended pre-soak procedure will not have much impact on the jeans other than a bit of puckering and roping due to the all-cotton stitching, the soaking also revealing a slightly more vibrant blue denim color.

The LOT.54BB pattern features a high rise and a full leg, with somewhat of a vintage 40’s-50’s period silhouette. For slimmer legs, please see our more tapered Californians LOT.64, LOT.74 and LOT.674.
On the boys-band fit photo, left to right, Peter is sporting a pristine original 2010 edition LOT.54 (Waist 32), Daniel is looking spectacular in his 2013 edition LOT.64 (Waist 30), and I’m breaking-in a fully cinched LOT.54BB early sample (W32, will probably size down to W31 with production.)
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.(Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.)

Mister Freedom® 2010 Californian LOT.54 (W32), 2013 LOT.64 (W30), 2019 LOT.54BB (W32)

CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Before washing, turn the jeans inside-out to avoid indigo color marbling. Machine wash in cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36

Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

They’re back! Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse & Californian Lot.64 Buckle Back “Okinawa”, mfsc SS2019 restock, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Californian Lot64BB “OKINAWA” (worn CL perso, FW2017)

Mister Freedom® Californian Lot674 “OKINAWA” (worn CL perso, SS2017)

Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse “OKINAWA” (raw) & Ranch Blouse Lot.64 (worn JG perso, FW2013)

Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse Lot.64 (worn JG perso, FW2013)

 

Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse & Californian LOT.64 BB “OKINAWA” edition.
Sportsman catalog, mfsc SS2019 RESTOCK.
Made in USA.

These two numbers were initially released during FW2017.
All sizes of the popular Mister Freedom® “OKINAWA” Californian Lot64BB and Ranch Blouse are back in stock for SS2019.
Fabric and specs are exactly the same as the original release.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®

©2019

Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.674, Selvedge Pique Edition, mfsc SS2019 Sportsman catalog, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.674, Selvedge Piqué Edition.
SS2019 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

Our theme-based capsule collection for Spring/Summer 2019 is entitled “YUCATÁN”.

Not just a straightforward allusion to the famous Mexican state on the peninsula notorious for the Mayan ruins and beach resorts, but a reference to the title of a lesser-known unreleased movie project famed actor Steve McQueen worked on in the late 1960’s.
The unfinished but thoroughly-researched project sat in a basement until one fine day of 1996, when Chad McQueen allegedly dusted-off two old leather trunks… packed with leather binders containing a 1,700 page-long scripted storyboard!

The dusty “Yucatan” lost classic treasure… (Photo montage courtesy of biographer Marshall Terrill, Warner Bros, Team Downey.)

Having personally crafted the story, Steve McQueen had carved a perfect role for himself. “Yucatán” apparently recounted the action-packed tropical adventures of a former US Navy diver turned treasure hunter in Southeast Mexico. Motorcycle chases in the desert, ruthless archeological site looters, dune buggy racing, scuba diving in cenotes Promising stuff! Somewhat of the ultimate wild ride from the Gulf of Mexico to the Caribbean Sea, an “Indiana Jones” type saga with Mayan culture as the backdrop, and the cooler king as the rider.
Unfortunately for adventure-action movie fans, the project was eventually abandoned, after “Le Mans” emptied McQueen’s Solar Production‘s coffers.

The ‘treasure’ trunks containing the storyboard ended-up in an auction in Santa Monica, CA, in 2013. Surprisingly, no takers…
“Yucatán” is today property of Warner Bros, and it has been reported that Hollywood star Robert Downey Jr. – and his “Team Downey” – have been hard at work trying to turn the original McQueen’s story into a silver screen blockbuster.
As of 2015, the Yucatán project was still at the developing stage… Considering Mr. Downey’s talent and ressources, I am personally quite looking forward to the film release, if this ‘lost classic’ ever materializes.

More on that story here and there. Official updates on the movie project seem to be posted here

Back to our own line of work, the schmata.
Drawing inspiration from a movie you have yet to see might sound a bit challenging, but this is actually quite along the lines of our “might-have-been” design approach that keeps us clear of straight-up replicas and creatively-repetitive work.

The vibe of our SS2019 “YUCATÁN” fashion venture is sporty, racy, with a touch of sixties beachcomber meets desert rat. This concise, full-throttle yet unassuming collection for grown-ups includes the DUNE BUGGY Jacket, the MARINA Polo, the “Yucatán” Rock’n’Roll Fiesta Shirt, and is complimented by two Sportsman catalog pieces, the COWBOY Jacket and CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 in Piqué.

If the Piqué Cowboy Jacket landed early in the season, its bottom-half Lot.674 companion is just fresh-off the small and busy SoCal factory that proudly and painstakingly produces a large portion of the Mister Freedom® mfsc Sportsman catalog, and all of the Californian family jeans and jackets.

As far as style, piqué jeans with matching jackets became popular with young adults in the early 1960’s, as a casual alternative to blue denim, with Levi’s® leading the trend with its 911 series released in a palette of subtle earth tone colors.
“Color jeans” in general, of assorted woven patterns and from several makers, made their way to American campuses, city streets and film sets. Lee Riders® was popular for its sateen “Westerner” models, Levi’s® for its pique and twills, and Wrangler® for its twill and light blue denim versions. Style icons like Steve McQueen or Paul Newman adopted their own favorites on and off screen, unwillingly promoting the style, contributing to its cool easygoing sixties fashion vibe today.

Our 100% cotton 12.05 Oz. piqué fabric features fine raised vertical cords on the face, with a contrasting waffle-like texture on the reverse. We are releasing it in two distinct color options: natural ‘wheat’ and a specific shade of ’vintage’ sage green. On close inspection, the wheat version features attractive minuscule brown flakes, as the yarn is unbleached.

We introduced our Californian Lot.674 pattern back in 2017, featuring the top block of the Lot.64 combined with tapered leg of the Lot.74, and a button fly. The Lot.674 is our slimmest leg, although not by contemporary fashion standards that have raised the “slim fit” bar to breathtaking (literally) levels, but according to our own classic menswear aesthetics. Refer to this timeline for a summary of the Mister Freedom® five-pocket jeans fits and various fabric releases.

The mfsc CALIFORNIAN Piqué Edition is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
100% cotton 12.05 Oz. piqué fabric, selvedge, milled in Japan.
Two color options:
a) Sage green
b) Wheat (unbleached natural color)

Pocket bags: Fancy NOS woven stripe canvas, 100% cotton.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS fabric pocket bags, fancy woven striped cotton canvas.
* MF® original tonal “M” stitch arcuate design on rear pockets.
* Debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket. Will tan an age nicely overtime.
* 100% cotton thread tonal construction, combining several gauge of thread.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Combination of silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast fly buttons, and MF® brass tack waist button.
* Unmarked copper riveting for reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (chocolate brown).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The Piqué CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 comes UN-WASHED (i.e. raw/loomstate) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.

We recommend our usual method for raw cotton garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.

The Californian Lot.674 Piqué are true-to-size, with the usual “vanity sizing” standard in the industry.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. (Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow the belly button, not bellow the hips.)

I opted for a W31 in the Lot.674 Californian Piqué, which tends to be my size of choice for the MF® style of 1960’s slim jeans patterns, such as our popular Speedways, Malibu’s, Lot.74 and Lot.674 models. When playing around with period “flood length” à-la McQueen, rather than rolled cuffs or modern unsightly stacking, the Lot.674 has a definite sixties vibe silhouette.

Note that unlike most denim fabrics, this piqué fabric will not stretch with wear.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Available RAW/unwashed.
Sage green or Wheat.
Sizes
28
30
32
34
36
38

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.44R, 13 Oz. selvedge denim twill, NOS Cone Mills, made in USA.

The “vintage” silhouettes of the Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans denim family.

Mister Freedom® Californian indigo blue jeans Lot.44R (reissue)
13 Oz. selvedge denim twill, NOS Cone Mills.
mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

The Californian LOT.44 Blue Jean is our classic 1940’s-50’s silhouette, the widest fit of our straight leg five-pocket denim family.

Tasteful 2012 promotion material.

This special run revives the original popular pattern of the the LOT.44, with its old-school buckle back, higher rise and full leg. The “R” stands for “reissue”, as the LOT.44R are cut in one type of NOS denim, not a mixed bag of 37 twills as initially released back in 2011.
The New Old Stock fabric of the LOT.44R was milled by famed and now-defunct Cone Mills of Greensboro, N.C., USA. This handsome indigo denim twill is sanforized (will not shrink), and its selvedge ID is white with a red stripe .
The Californian LOT.44R were manufactured around 2016, and were, by oversight, never documented on the MF® blog, nor made available online. The webstore’s Californian section has now been updated with limited sizing of the LOT.44R..

The Mister Freedom® Lot.44R are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

Note: This release does not include the original MF® cardboard box packaging.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 13 Oz. indigo twill denim, white with red stripe selvedge ID.
Pocket Bags: A fancy NOS 100% cotton herringbone twill, gunpowder grey color.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.

* Selvedge leg outseam.
* Buckle-back, aka cinch-back.
* New Old Stock fancy HBT cotton fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original yellow “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Coin pocket.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Lined rear pockets (NOS grey HBT cotton.)
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Packaging-free.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
This NOS denim is sanforized, i.e. the LOT.44R Californian will not shrink after the initial recommended 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
They are true-to size, and a tagged W32 measures approximately 32 inches.

The LOT.44R feature a straight leg with a generous silhouette and a higher rise, with a definite 1940’s-50’s “period vibe”.

NOTE: We measure the waist of our jeans by doing the following:
1) Fasten the top waist button.
2) Pinch both ends of the folded waistband firmly, pulling reasonably so that front rise and back rise align and lay flat.
3) Position the straight folded waistband on a (fixed) wooden measuring stick (cloth tape tends to stretch overtime, giving wrong measurements.)
4) Read the measurement then double it.
Ex: a 16 inches measurement across the waistband becomes a Waist 32.

Refer to our sizing chart for raw/cold soaked measurements.

The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.44 is available RAW/unwashed.
Available tagged Sizes:
W30 × L34
W31 × L36
W32 × L36
W33 × L36
W34 × L36
W36 × L36
W38 × L36

Now available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Note: These are not issued with the original MF® cardboard box.

Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019