Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE and CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 “OUTLAW” model, 13 Oz. black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim, mfsc FW2021. Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE and CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 “OUTLAW” model, 13 Oz. black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim edition.
mfsc FW2021 Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

For Fall 2021, we are releasing our classic Ranch Blouse and Californian Lot.64 in a special solid black denim twill, developed and milled in Japan by Sugarcane Co.

This premium mid-weight 13 Oz. selvedge denim combines a black sulfur-dyed warp yarn (fabric face) with a black sulfur-dyed weft (fabric reverse), and is produced on traditional shuttle looms. The contrasting selvedge (white with red line) adds a fancy touch to the solid black denim twill.

Sulfur dyes are notorious for their lower colorfastness (resistance to fading), when compared to other dyeing methods, such as pigment dyes for instance. Sulfur-dyed fabric tends to naturally fade “faster”. Over time, with extensive wear and normal laundry routine, the black yarns will fade to dark/medium/light grey (eventually to white). The resulting attractive patina is reminiscent of well-worn traditional indigo-dyed denim, “whiskers” and all. See some faded Sugar Cane’s sulfur-dyed specimen here.

For Fall 2021, our original Ranch blouse design remains pretty much unchanged from its 2010 inception, A-1 style collar, unique slanted pockets on lower chest with single pocket flap, “M” stitching on pockets, pleated front with signature arrowhead darts stitching, 30s-style buckle back etc…

For the matching Californians, we opted for our popular Lot.64 cut – slightly tapered leg, mid rise, traditional silhouette – but decided to spice up the traditional five-pocket pattern by introducing a western-wear modification. The Lot.64-OTL features “frogmouth” type pocket openings, sometimes referred-to as western pockets, a detail often seen on early riding apparel. We have played around with this style in the past, with mfsc oldies such as the MF® Vaqueros,  Buckaroos, Conductor Slacks, and most recently the Deputy Britches, from which the pocket opening pattern was borrowed and adapted to our new Californian “Outlaw”.
This western touch is subtle, but adds a cool twist to the classic five-pocket jeans, making the Lot.64-OTL the latest member of our Californian family.

Worn as a matching set, paired with indigo-dyed denim tops and bottoms, vintage pieces or contemporary heritage-style sportswear, this black denim ensemble is pretty versatile and easy to incorporate into a classic wardrobe.

The black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim Ranch Blouse and Californian LOT.64-OTL (available separately) are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, from denim fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS
FABRIC:
Mid-weight 13 Oz. solid black denim twill, sulfur-dyed warp x sulfur-dyed weft, selvedge (white with red line ID), 100% cotton, milled in Japan on traditional shuttle looms.

FACING (collar lining, pocket flap, pocket bags):
New Old Stock (NOS) 3×1 denim, dark indigo, 100% cotton.

FW2021 RANCH BLOUSE, black sulfur-dyed denim edition:
DETAILS:
* All original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by vintage trucker-style denim work jackets.
* Early round-type collar, A-1 style.
* Vintage boxy but slim silhouette.
* Pleated front with original MF® signature arrowhead dart stitching.
* Original lower chest double slanted pockets with “M” branding stitching, single pocket flap.
* Selvedge front panel fold.
* Contrast NOS 3×1 denim facing for collar and pocket flap.
* Brass cast MF® branded tack buttons.
* Buckle back, concealed selvedge strap, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked, leather washer.
* Chainstitch construction, tonal dark navy blue thread, 100% cotton.
* Original mfsc printed “Buckaroo” cloth label.
* Made in USA

SIZING FIT:
The black sulfur-dyed Ranch Blouse comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.
  • Wear briefly while still damp to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

I wear my usual Ranch Blouse size in this black sulfur-dyed edition, a cold-soaked 38. I’m about 5’7 , 145 lbs.

FW2021 CALIFORNIAN “Outlaw” Lot.64-OTL, black sulfur-dyed denim edition:
DETAILS:
* Original Mister Freedom® classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern.
* Western-style “Frogmouth” front pocket opening pattern.
* Button fly, combination of brass/silver original MF® branded metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS 3×1 denim pocket bags.
* MF® original “M” branding stitch design on rear pockets.
* MF® branded black tea-core leather patch on rear pocket.
* Black tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread, gauge combination.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement bar tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (ivory white).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The black sulfur-dyed Californian Lot.64-OTL jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.
  • Wear briefly while still damp to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I opted for a W31 with this model (my current waist size in MF® Californians), for a classic silhouette with a snug waist, comfortable top block and straight leg. I’m about 5’7 , 145 lbs.
As with all denim twills, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
DENIM CARE:
Treat this black sulfur-dyed denim twill as you would premium indigo-dyed denim.
Wash denim jeans/jacket sporadically, only when needed. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

 

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE & CALIFORNIAN Lot.674-2xi, 12.4 Oz. Double Indigo Denim edition, mfsc SS2021, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans Lot.674, 14 Oz.”HAWAII SC401″ Selvedge Denim, mfsc FW2020. Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Californian Lot.674, “HAWAII SC401” selvedge denim edition.
mfsc FW2020 Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

The Lot.674 of the MF® Californian Blue Jeans family is our slimmest fit in the five-pocket pattern selection, blending the top block and button fly of the Lot.64 with the leg of the Lot.74. This gives the Lot.674 its slim & lean silhouette characteristic of casual 1960s “stovepipe leg” denim jeans. See here for a recap of our Californian cuts.

The “Hawaii SC401” denim was initially pioneered and trademarked by Toyo Enterprises in Japan in the early 1990s, and milled as an exclusive fabric for their Sugar Cane Co workwear brand. This premium 14 Oz. dark indigo-dyed denim twill is a blend of 50% cotton and 50% recycled sugarcane fibers and features a classic white and green line selvedge. The SC401 is notorious for its subtle indigo shade variations in the yarns, interesting denim nep, attractive slub, “sweet” smell, and most-memorably rewarding fading potential.
MF® OGs will remember that this denim was featured on the right leg of the original mfsc UFO, aka “7161” Utility Trousers, our first collaboration with Sugar Cane Co released back in 2006.

This FW2020 model’s pocket bags are cut from NOS yardage of 100% cotton soft brushed flannel fabric featuring a colorful 1960s vibe paisley-type printed motif.

For the fly, we combined metal finishes with an original MF®-branded brass tack button for the waist and ‘silver’ for the fly. The denim selvedge is classically featured on the outseam, and also used in the watch pocket and button hole placket construction.

The Californian LOT.674 blue jeans “HAWAII SC401” edition are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by traditional 1950′s-1960’s era blue jeans, traditional fit, slightly tapered stovepipe leg for a mid-60’s vibe.

FABRIC:
Sturdy 14 Oz. “401 Hawaii” dark indigo-dyed denim twill, a blend of 50% cotton and 50% recycled sugarcane fibers. White w/ green line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan exclusively for Sugar Cane Co.
Pocketing: NOS printed brushed flannel, 100% cotton, featuring a colorful 1960s vibe paisley-type pattern.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded ‘silver’ tack buttons, topped with brass finish waist button.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS printed brushed cotton flannel pocket bags featuring a 1960s paisley-type motif.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Natural cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (special “Mask-up ya hippie!” tie-dye pattern).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The “HAWAII SC401” Californian LOT.674 blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. For instance, a tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry in machine and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

The “HAWAII SC401” Californian Lot.674 are considered true-to-size.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. (Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow the belly button, not bellow the hips.)
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I opted for a W31 in the Lot.674 “HAWAII SC401”, which tends to be my size of choice for the MF® selection of 1960s slim jeans patterns, such as our the SpeedwaysMalibu’sLot.74, and all Lot.674 models in general.

Please note that the tiny prickly yarns that one might occasionally feel during the early days of break-in the jeans are the actual recycled sugarcane fibers. This potential “discomfort” is temporary, but is worth mentioning for the faint of heart not accustomed to raw denim jeans that haven’t been factory-rinsed.

Cuffing: Playing around with period “flood length” and getting your jeans hemmed to your desired length, rather than doing roll-ups or contemporary stacking, will help convey the sixties vibe of the Californian Lot.674 cut.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).



CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning indigo blue/denim garments inside out to avoid marbling during laundering. Machine wash, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Potential attractive patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Please note that dark indigo might cause color transfer, and potentially “bleed” on light-colored garments, furniture, and skin. This indigo color “crocking” is temporary.

Available RAW/unwashed.
Sizes (W is for Waist, measured in inches.)
29
30
31
32
33
34
36

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans Lot.64, 14 Oz.”SC66″ Selvedge Denim, mfsc FW2020. Made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® Californian Blue Jeans Lot.64 LHT, NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. Left Hand Twill denim edition, mfsc SS2020, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.64 LHT.
NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. Left-Hand Twill selvedge denim.
mfsc Sportman catalog SS2020.
Made in USA.

We named our popular classic five-pocket jeans the “Californian” because they are made in California, USA. The MF® Californian comes in five timeless basic cuts rounded-up by Lot numbers: Lot.44, Lot.54, Lot.64, Lot.74 and Lot.674.
The Californian family grows every season (see recent timeline here), often according to how lucky we get scoring interesting New Old Stock denims.

The first installment of mfsc Spring 2020 is the Californian LOT.64 LHT. This edition features an attractive and quite rare 13 Oz. left-hand twill denim, milled in Greensboro, N.C., by the legendary Cone Mills.
LHT weave is distinct from its more commun right-hand counterpart, as it displays a wale diagonally-going from left to right, as opposed to, you guessed it, right to left. Those familiar with vintage Lee® jeans will relate to this specific weave, as LHT denim has been the fabric of choice for many H.D. Lee classics, such as their iconic 101-J, Storm Rider jacket or Rider Jeans.

Left-hand twill denims come with their specificities, including a tightly-wound indigo warp (resulting in a softer hand), and a white weft more prevalent on the face (resulting in a lighter shade of denim fabric). Fading properties also differ, and well-worn LHT denim tends to display less high contrast than RHT. However, connoisseurs and lucky owners of authentic vintage faded Lee® specimen will attest to the very attractive subtle patina. In all honesty, we haven’t had time to “beat-up” a Lot.64 LHT yet, but the HQ will keep everyone posted.
The pocket bags are cut from a fancy indigo/white woven plaid NOS fabric.

The Lot.64 pattern is our most popular cut, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise, a silhouette inspired by traditional 1950’s era blue jeans with a 1960’s twist.
If our 64 pattern has been fairly consistant throughout the years, the specific drape/weight/color of each denim does alter the silhouette of each model. Visually, this season’s NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. LHT release has a slightly more generous leg than the recently-issued 16 Oz. Midnight denim Lot.64 MD. The fit is somewhat closer to our Lot.54 than other Lot.64s, so please consider sizing down if you are set on the usual Lot.64 silhouette, and if the rinsed measurements work for you.

The Californian LOT.64 LHT is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from NOS American denim fabric.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 13 Oz. indigo Left-Hand Twill denim, white/red line selvedge ID.
Pocket Bags: NOS 100% cotton indigo/white woven plaid fabric.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS indigo/white woven plaid 100% cotton pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® branded patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge buttonhole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original MF® silver-color ‘oxidized’ metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (red).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
All the Californian blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. For instance, a tagged W32 x L34 will technically shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

This specific Californian Lot.64 LHT edition is cut with a generous waist (referred to as “vanity sizing”), and a rinsed W32 will end-up measuring closer to 33 inches.
The Waist size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit.
I opted for a W31 with this model (my current size in MF® Californians), for a comfortable top block and generous straight leg silhouette. The resulting fit is closer to that of the Lot.54BB than our classic Lot.64. I personally could have gone down to a W30, but decided to stick to W31.
For those partial to the usual slimmer silhouette of the 64s, and should the rinsed measurements work out, consider sizing down on the LOT.64 LHT.

As with all denim twills, subtle shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please note that, for this model, soaking in hot water or using an electric clothes dryer will hardly result in extra shrinkage after the initial cold soak.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. (soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.)

CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36

Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020