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2010 LOT.54 (W32), 2013 LOT.64 (W30), 2019 LOT.54BB (W32)
Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.54BB
NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. Selvedge Denim.
mfsc Sportman catalog FW2019.
Made in USA.
Sometime in 2010, we released our first-born “Californian” into the wild. This was the MF® Californian LOT.54 blue jeans, all made in USA, cut from a New Old Stock Cone Mills 12 Oz. selvedge denim. If our initial contribution to the crowded world of the classic five-pocket jeans had absolutely zero impact on the Xintang denim industry, it is always a treat for us to spot one of our “M” and pocket patch in a crowd. Many thanks to everyone who adopted the “Californian” over the years, we know there are many options out there.
After the LOT.54’s success, followed a “spectacular plethora” (dixit our friend Daniel) of releases and fits, in a timeline outlined here.
For Fall 2019, we dusted-off that old LOT.54 pattern and paired it with another NOS Cone Mills goodie, a handsome 13Oz. denim twill with an old-school indigo blue hue warp, and a white/red line selvedge ID.
We borrowed the buckle-back cinch of the LOT.44, slapped it on there, and are calling this release the LOT.54BB. We tricked-out the rear by incorporating our classic Buckaroos printed cloth patch under the back cinch strap, traditionally stitching the label on top of the waistband/back-yoke but under the center belt loop.
Another cosmetic detail is the addition of an inside blank “name tag” attached to the pocket bag, opposite of the traditional coin pocket, for no other reason than finding the outside display of yellow/orange/white contrast stitching quite attractive. We’re vain like that.
The pocket bags of this 2019 edition are cut from a sturdy NOS cotton canvas, in a complementing warm rusty red color.
The fit of the Californian LOT.54BB is similar to the original LOT.54, with a roomy leg, generous waist and high rise, for those into a fuller 40’s-50’s period silhouette. If after a slimmer leg, but still with a vintage vibe, please see our more tapered Californians LOT.64, LOT.74 and LOT.674.
The Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.54BB are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 13 Oz. indigo twill denim, white/red line selvedge ID, with a traditional indigo blue hue warp.
Pocket Bags: NOS 100% cotton canvas, rusty red color.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Traditional selvedge leg outseam.
* Buckle-back cinch strap, with concealed denim selvedge.
* New Old Stock cotton canvas pocket bags, rusty red color.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* “Buckaroos” printed cloth label stitched under cinch and rear belt loop.
* Inside “name tag” cloth label.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly shank buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® yellow paper pocket flasher.
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT.54BB comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. For instance, a tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
* Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
* Spin dry and line dry.
* Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
This specific 13 Oz. Cone Mills denim twill is considered sanforized (= pre-shrunk at the milling stage), so our usual recommended pre-soak procedure will not have much impact on the jeans other than a bit of puckering and roping due to the all-cotton stitching, the soaking also revealing a slightly more vibrant blue denim color.
The LOT.54BB pattern features a high rise and a full leg, with somewhat of a vintage 40’s-50’s period silhouette. For slimmer legs, please see our more tapered Californians LOT.64, LOT.74 and LOT.674.
On the boys-band fit photo, left to right, Peter is sporting a pristine original 2010 edition LOT.54 (Waist 32), Daniel is looking spectacular in his 2013 edition LOT.64 (Waist 30), and I’m breaking-in a fully cinched LOT.54BB early sample (W32, will probably size down to W31 with production.)
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.(Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.)
 Mister Freedom® 2010 Californian LOT.54 (W32), 2013 LOT.64 (W30), 2019 LOT.54BB (W32) CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Before washing, turn the jeans inside-out to avoid indigo color marbling. Machine wash in cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36
Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
Mister Freedom® Californian indigo blue jeans Lot.44R (reissue)
13 Oz. selvedge denim twill, NOS Cone Mills.
mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.
The Californian LOT.44 Blue Jean is our classic 1940’s-50’s silhouette, the widest fit of our straight leg five-pocket denim family.
 Tasteful 2012 promotion material. This special run revives the original popular pattern of the the LOT.44, with its old-school buckle back, higher rise and full leg. The “R” stands for “reissue”, as the LOT.44R are cut in one type of NOS denim, not a mixed bag of 37 twills as initially released back in 2011.
The New Old Stock fabric of the LOT.44R was milled by famed and now-defunct Cone Mills of Greensboro, N.C., USA. This handsome indigo denim twill is sanforized (will not shrink), and its selvedge ID is white with a red stripe .
The Californian LOT.44R were manufactured around 2016, and were, by oversight, never documented on the MF® blog, nor made available online. The webstore’s Californian section has now been updated with limited sizing of the LOT.44R..
The Mister Freedom® Lot.44R are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Note: This release does not include the original MF® cardboard box packaging.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 13 Oz. indigo twill denim, white with red stripe selvedge ID.
Pocket Bags: A fancy NOS 100% cotton herringbone twill, gunpowder grey color.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* Buckle-back, aka cinch-back.
* New Old Stock fancy HBT cotton fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original yellow “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Coin pocket.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Lined rear pockets (NOS grey HBT cotton.)
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Packaging-free.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
This NOS denim is sanforized, i.e. the LOT.44R Californian will not shrink after the initial recommended 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
They are true-to size, and a tagged W32 measures approximately 32 inches.
The LOT.44R feature a straight leg with a generous silhouette and a higher rise, with a definite 1940’s-50’s “period vibe”.
NOTE: We measure the waist of our jeans by doing the following:
1) Fasten the top waist button.
2) Pinch both ends of the folded waistband firmly, pulling reasonably so that front rise and back rise align and lay flat.
3) Position the straight folded waistband on a (fixed) wooden measuring stick (cloth tape tends to stretch overtime, giving wrong measurements.)
4) Read the measurement then double it.
Ex: a 16 inches measurement across the waistband becomes a Waist 32.
Refer to our sizing chart for raw/cold soaked measurements.
The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.44 is available RAW/unwashed.
Available tagged Sizes:
W30 × L34
W31 × L36
W32 × L36
W33 × L36
W34 × L36
W36 × L36
W38 × L36
Now available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Note: These are not issued with the original MF® cardboard box.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Blue Jeans.
Made in USA.
Our popular classic five-pocket jeans are called “Californian” because they are made in California, USA.
The MF® Californians come in five timeless basic cuts rounded-up by main Lot numbers: Lot.44, Lot.54, Lot.64, Lot.74 and Lot.674.
Through the years, we have issued various iterations of these Lots, showcasing assorted selvedge denims and trim options, released in the USA in rigid/loomstate form only:
* Californian Lot.54 (Yellow paper flasher, 2010): The original issue, straight leg, button fly, classic 1950’s silhouette. Issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.44 (Box packaging, 2011): Similar pattern, buckle back added, straight leg, button fly, classic 40’s-1950’s silhouette. Issued in about 37 types of NOS denim twills.
* Californian Lot.44R (Reissue, w/o packaging, 2018): Same as Lot.44 but issued in NOS Cone 13.Oz sanforized denim twill.
* Californian Lot.64 (Red paper flasher, 2013): Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Originally issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64US (Army green paper flasher, 2014): “Uncle Sam” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64OK (Orange paper flasher, 2014): “Okinawa Advisor” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 14 Oz. “Okinawa 301” indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.74 (Aqua green paper flasher, 2015): Tapered, our slimmest leg, zipper fly, classic “1960’s youth” vibe. Originally issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim, then in NOS 12.5 Oz. wheat denim.
* Californian Lot.654 (Yellow paper flasher, 2015): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, button fly, with the bells and whistles of our original Lot.54. Issued in NOS 12 Oz. Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64E (Red/White stripe paper flasher, 2016): Special “US Presidential Election” Edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, button fly, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 16.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.674 (Ivory white paper flasher, 2017): Top block of the Lot.64 mixed with tapered leg of the Lot.74, button fly, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64BB (Dark navy paper flasher, 2017): Lot.64 with added Buckle-Back cinch, button fly, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64OG (Venice Beach Sunset paper flasher, 2018): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, button fly, issued in NOS 15.5 Oz. organic Cone Mills denim.
Asides from our MF® Californians, we also offer a wide range of non five-pocket denim trousers.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019
   
 Californian blue jeans Lot.64OG, worn & washed (about 4-month intermitent wear.) 
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Color reference: Worn Californian Lot.64BB (Okinawa denim), worn and unworn Californian Lot.64OG (Organic denim)
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Mister Freedom® Californian indigo blue jeans Lot.64 OG , Organic cotton, NOS 15.5 Oz.Cone Mills selvedge denim twill.
Spring 2018 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.
If you were planning on adding a pair of jeans to your wardrobe menu, here is an “organic” version of our Californian, specifically designed for raw foodies.
?
Our MF® Californian blue jeans Lot.64 OG are cut from an older stock of premium denim from Cone Mills, and feature… ORGANIC cotton!
Not that anything about the process of making denim apparel usually epitomizes much of an eco-friendly gesture from us and the ever-booming international Denim Industry. In 2018, well over one billion pairs of blue jeans will likely change hands on the blue planet. This unrestrained consumerism means extensive farming of genetically-modified cotton (largely China and India), high water consumption of indigo-dyeing and yarn-bleaching inherent to milling denim, unnecessary chemical ’vintage’ washes favored by many contemporary labels to boost sales, cleverly-planned obsolescence of disposable fast-fashion jeans with convincing “bargain” price tags, etc…
As regular purveyors of selvedge denim wearables and members of this fine Industry, we, at Mister Freedom®, are well aware that featuring “organic denim” for Spring 2018 only buys us a temporary good conscience. The most we will claim is a determination to stick to environmentally-conscious countries for milling, sourcing and manufacturing denim, such as USA and Japan.
In any case, some time before hearing the sad news of the shutting down of Cone Denim White Oak plant in Greensboro, N.C., we secured a nice cargo of New Old Stock Cone 15.5 Oz organic denim. With an attractive raw indigo hue somewhat reminiscent of the color of rigid 501 Levi’s® one could pick-up from Army/Navy surplus stores in the 1970’s-80’s, this fabric was a perfect candidate for our Californian blue jeans family, the humble Mister Freedom® contribution to the crowded world of five-pocket jeans.
After road-testing an early proto, a few months of normal wear and a few washes later, the denim evo showed similarities with the “Malibu” denim we used on the Spring 2017 Conductor Jacket, Speedways, etc… No high contrast fading or fast indigo abrasion (unlike the sugar cane fiber “Okinawa” denim of the Lot.64 BB), no impressive Friday-special honeycombs, but a beautiful and uncommon indigo blue, a blessing for the denim-on-denim creative connoisseur who loves mixing-up his indigoes.
Feb 20, 2018 UPDATE: We received a kind and insightful email from our friend Chip at Cone Denim giving us the actual background of this specific fabric. Chip knows a thing or two about this organic indigo denim, as he personally developed it at the time:
“We (Cone Denim) partnered with Stony Creek Colors in Tennessee who are working with Tobacco farmers to change their crops into indigo plant.
This is how the fabric gets to be such a vibrant blue, and is completely unique from any other dye we have ever run in the past.
It truly is one of the greatest, and most sustainable, selvedges we put out: Texas organic cotton, America indigo plant dye, all woven here in the US.”
The pocket bag fabric we opted for is an old stock of sturdy 100% cotton woven plaid with warm saffron/yellow tones, enhanced by the most flamboyant Californian paper flasher to date, featuring an enchanting sunset in Venice Beach, California, hotter than a 1970’s Playboy® magazine fashion ad.
For the vintage packaging collector, here is a recap of the colorful Mister Freedom® five-pocket blue jeans pocket flashers released in the past 8 years:
* Californian Lot.54 (Yellow paper flasher, 2010): The original issue, straight leg, classic 1950’s silhouette. Issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.44 (Box packaging, 2011): Similar pattern, buckle back added, straight leg, classic 40’s-1950’s silhouette. Issued in about 37 types of NOS denim twills.
* Californian Lot.64 (Red paper flasher, 2013): Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Originally issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64US (Army green paper flasher, 2014): “Uncle Sam” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 13 3/4 Oz. indigo denim (SC1966).
* Californian Lot.64OK (Orange paper flasher, 2014): “Okinawa Advisor” edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 14 Oz. “Okinawa 301” indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.74 (Aqua green paper flasher, 2015): Tapered, our slimmest leg, classic “1960’s youth” vibe. Originally issued in 12.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim, then in NOS 12.5 Oz. wheat denim…
* Californian Lot.654 (Yellow paper flasher, 2015): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, with the bells and whistles of our original Lot.54. Issued in NOS 12 Oz. Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64E (Red/White stripe paper flasher, 2016): Special “US Presidential Election” Edition. Straight leg, slightly tapered, classic 1960’s vibe. Issued in 16.5 Oz. NOS Cone indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.674 (Ivory white paper flasher, 2017): Top block of the Lot.64 mixed with tapered leg of the Lot.74, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64BB (Dark navy paper flasher, 2017): Lot.64 with added Buckle-Back cinch, issued in “Okinawa 301” 14 Oz. sugarcane fiber indigo denim.
* Californian Lot.64OG (Venice Beach Sunset paper flasher, 2018): Pattern and fit of our classic Lot.64, issued in NOS 15.5 Oz. organic Cone Mills denim.
The Mister Freedom® Lot.64 OG are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 15.5 Oz. indigo twill denim, Organic cotton, solid white selvedge ID.
Pocket Bags:
NOS 100% cotton woven plaid fabric, saffron/yellow check pattern.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket pattern.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* New Old Stock woven plaid fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original silver-color ‘oxidized’ MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (Venice Beach, CA., enchanting sunset edition).
* Made in USA
SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT.64 OG (organic cotton) blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process. Note that this specific denim is pretty much sanforized and will not move much.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing: cold soak for about 30mn/spin dry/line dry/wear briefly when still damp to set creases/line dry until fully dry.
The word is to go for your usual mfsc (Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane) waist size. I opted for a Waist 32 in the Lot.64OG, my usual size in the MF® Californian family.
As with all denim twills, slight back-and-forth shrinkage/stretching will occur for a while, fluctuating according to the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.(Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry, ie. minimal shrinkage.)
 
CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36
Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
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