Indigo Melton “DROVER” Blouse
“Viva la Revolución” mfsc Fall 2013
Looks like some of our “Men of the Frontier” cowpokes-turned-filibusterers brought some of their gear along this season…
From the chilly Sierra Nevada trails to the banks of the Rio Grande, here come the Drover Blouse again… Some of you may be familiar with our original issue of this coat , made from recycled military blankets, natural color.
 Original Drover Blouse This time however, our wool coat took a little plunge (or 10 for that matter) in an indigo vat. Following a somewhat successful indigo dye test done some months ago on an off-white drover (only two dips), we decide to include an indigo option for our Fall 2013 line-up, after a tense and tumultuous board meeting that lasted an entire minute.
 Drover Indigo early Prototype The high grade Melton wool we used for this season Drover was milled and indigo dyed in Japan.
I was quite relieved when I realized that this project was not going to require my personal involvement with the dyeing process. Like they say, leave it to the pros.
Our Indigo Melton Drover is not garment dyed. Instead the natural wool was dyed first, then cut & sewn. This way, all the horsehide leather trims/lining keep their contrasting touch.
The body lining consist of a fabric we had milled in Japan, inspired by the unlikely indigo covert fabric liner of an 1890’s pair of trousers. This indigo covert is a recurring textile for our Fall 2013.
The arms lining are a cotton stripe ticking we have been using often for our mfsc products (same fabric originally used as watch pocket on our 7161 utility trousers, sometime in 2006.)
Over time and with normal wear, the Indigo Drover should get some interesting natural patina and I’ll be posting some evolution photos after winter. However, a wool jacket is not a pair of jeans, don’t try to speed up the natural aging process. Results in fading/patina will vary according to your activities.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan as a collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, introduced as the “Blouse Chaparral” for Spring 2012. Inspired by 1920′s~30′s sport type jackets and other vintage outdoor coats.
FABRIC:
100% Melton wool, soft hand, 31 Oz., selvedge.
Indigo vat dyed, about 10 dips, deep dark tone.
LINING:
Fully lined.
Body: 100% cotton indigo covert twill (aka salt & pepper), 8.5 Oz.
Arm: 100% cotton ticking (white w/ blue stripes).
DETAILS:
* 1920′s~30′s type silhouette, high waist.
* Original round collar.
* Back darting and expansion gusset, 1930′s style.
* Side waist adjustable straps.
* Horsehide leather side and cuff cinch straps (with vintage NOS French metal slide buckles)
* Cowhide leather pocket trimming.
* Arrow chest pocket.
* Horsehide leather detachable chin-strap.
* Wool selvedge on front panels button facing.
* Seven button front. Brown Corozo wood buttons (aka Ivory nut).
* Full lining, 100% cotton.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* No exposed seam, no overlock.
* Limited Edition.
SIZING/SHRINKAGE:
Please do not wash. DRY CLEAN only.
We recommend wearing the jacket as is, and taking it to a professional environmentally friendly dry cleaner when cleaning is needed.
NOTE: Due to the nature of indigo dye, crocking is expected and normal. Some color will rub for a period of time, on car seats, sofas etc…. Indigo is also sun sensitive and will change in color when exposed.
The Indigo Melton Drover is true to size. I usually wear a 38 in mfsc, and a 38 Drover fits me snug. You might want to size up if you are in between two sizes, especially if you will be wearing sweaters or layering this winter.
Please refer to chart below for measurements. Please consider the thickness of the fabric (wool + lining) when figuring out sizing.
Available RAW/unwashed
Sizes
36 (small)
38 (medium)
40 (large)
42 (xlarge)
44 (xxlarge)
Retail $879.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Please call 323-653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for the support 😉
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West Side Story. The End.
“El Americano” Waistcoat
Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection
We introduced the concept behind our “Viva la Revolución” mfsc Collection during Spring 2013.
For the first chapter of this on-going saga for Fall 2013, let’s welcome a new character, el Americano...
Aptly nicknamed due to his whereabouts North of the Rio Grande, not for his barista skills, our gringo fought alongside Mexican revolutionaries during the 1910-1920 Revolution.
More often for financial gratification than ideological convictions, foreign soldiers of fortune from around the World joined the ranks of the Maderistas, Villistas and other rebel armies. They earned nicknames as colorful as ‘Dynamite Slim’ or ‘El Diablo’, which allowed them to keep the greetings of an introduction brief…
El Americano was special. Unlike some of his compañeros of the ‘Gringo Rag-Tag Battalion‘, and although a feared fighter, he fancied being stylishly clad at all times. As others remarked on his unlikely field attire, he would retort: “Hombre, I always dress to kill.”
Someone sneered, once. Just once.
Such the poet was El Americano.
Anyways, back to the reality of 2013…
Our “El Americano” waistcoat was inspired by several vintage early 1900’s European fancy pieces. Its lapel style is often a trademark of early Old West portrait photography. The pattern is a combination of fancy tailoring tricks and details.
We have developed no less than 4 entirely different fabrics for this waistcoat, all milled and dyed in Japan exclusively for mfsc. These options are:
a) Brown Duck, golden brown cotton sateen back.
b) Grey Covert Stripe, black cotton sateen back.
c) Indigo dyed Corduroy, black cotton sateen back.
The last developed fabric is an indigo yarn covert twill that was originally the lining of a pair of gentlemen’s trousers from the 1890’s. The most unlikely sight, although I’ve seen quite my share of unusual textiles used as linings in early tailoring. I always love discovering ‘hidden treasures’ when opening up a vintage garment, such as a ‘crazy’ lining in a formal piece. They were often not a fashion statement, rather the need to use up fabric left over from a previous project, at times when discarding perfectly fine supplies was not a National sport.
Vintage trousers lining This 8.5 Oz. selvedge indigo fabric is the inner lining of “El Americano”, for its three options.
The outer back piece is a tightly woven 100% cotton sateen, matching the body.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in small ethically run factories in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by early European style tailored waistcoats typical of early Old West attire.
FABRICS
a) Brown Duck : selvedge 100% cotton canvas, 13 Oz.
The inside part of the yarn being lighter in color than the outside of the yarn (same as that of the 1930’s hunting jacket with its amazing patina that inspired it) this fabric will age nicely with repeat wear.
b) Grey Covert Stripe: selvedge 60% cotton and 40% linen heavy canvas with a random stripe pattern. The random repeat makes this fabric look halfway between a covert (salt & pepper) and stripe type textile. Technically 12 Oz. it feels heavier because of the yarn gauge. It takes an entire day to mill about 17 meters of that fabric, on old shuttle looms. The factory was thrilled…
Fabric inspired by a vintage 1943 bag from the Swiss military. Yes, we look everywhere for inspiration. The only place off limit being what other contemporary brands do.
c) Indigo Corduroy: Mid wale 100% cotton corduroy. 14.5 Oz. Indigo vat dyed.
DETAILS
* Slim silhouette, Old West waistcoat style. Angled front panels and curved back vented one-piece panel.
* Small round lapel
* Off-set shoulder construction
* High buttoned style (7 buttons).
* Three front pockets
* 100% cotton sateen tonal back panel.
* Underarm gusset.
* Engraved coconut wood buttons, aka ivory nut, aka corozo (and no, not chorizo as my spell check suggests.)
* Full adjustable cinch back with French vintage New Old Stock metal slide buckle.
* Unbleached cotton sail cloth pocket lining.
*100% cotton tonal stitching.
SIZING/WASHING
All fabrics will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold soak and hang dry.
The reason for the original cold soak/dry is purely aesthetic. I like the natural torque/twisting of the fabric that gets rid of that desirable fresh-off-the-shelf look. As your waistcoat dries, fold and shape the collar to your liking, for a skinnier or fatter lapel (see the difference on the fit pix.)
For the Indigo Corduroy “El Americano” waistcoat, some crocking is to be expected when pairing with light colored garments, or sleeping face down on a fancy white sofa fully clothed.
Indigo ‘stains’ from rubbing wash off eventually.
I am usually a 38/medium and wear a 38 “El Americano” waistcoat.
True to size but refer to chart for rinsed/hang dry measurements.
Do not use hot water or machine dryer as this might result in excessive shrinkage.
Available raw/unwashed
Sizes
36 small
38 medium
40 large
42 Xlarge
44 XXlarge
Retail:
a) Brown Duck $439.95
b) Grey Covert Stripe $439.95
c) Indigo Corduroy $459.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Call the store at 323-653-2014 with any questions not answered above, or mail sales@misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support.
Introducing the second chapter of our collaboration collection with Sugar Cane Co “Viva la Revolución”. This Fall/Winter volume follows the previously Spring/Summer story you can read about here.
As always, the inspiration for this collection is quite eclectic, near and far from the Rio Grande in the first thirty years of the 20th Century. I will turn to full rambling mode for each item as production hits our HQ, sometime in Sept/Oct 2013.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
The Fall 2013 line up will include:
* “EL AMERICANO” Jacket:
Three different fabrics
a) Brown duck selvedge canvas
b) Indigo dyed wide wale Corduroy
c) Grey ‘stripe’ heavy canvas
* “EL AMERICANO” Trousers:
Three different fabric a) b) c)
* “EL AMERICANO” Waistcoat:
Three different fabric a) b) c)
* “DROVER BLOUSE”:
A special edition in indigo dyed Melton wool.
* “RANCHERO” Shirt:
Two different fabrics
a) Indigo/Red woven plaid, cotton-linen selvedge
b) Indigo covert, selvedge
* “EL JEFFE” Henley (no, it’s not a sweater):
Two different fabrics
a) Natural heather brushed cotton fleece.
b) Gray heather brushed cotton fleece.
Muchas Gracias Friends 😉
“RANCHERO Shirt” Mister Freedom® MFSC
‘Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2013
Here we go with the final chapter of our ‘Viva la Revolución’ venture for this season.
The Ranchero design is inspired (no breaking news here) by vintage shirting, combined with some MF® signature elements. Inspiration was drawn from old movies, vintage photos and classic silhouettes. We mixed a bit of early work shirts, Indian ‘traditional’ tunics (if you are a casualty of Facebook, make up for wasted time looking at vacation photos of people you don’t know by checking this page), Old West shirting, ethnic garb, European fancy shirts, stirred it all up, and dipped it in the MF® salsa…
 
The ‘cut away’ collar pattern was inspired by late 1800’s European homemade farmer blouses & early Mexican and Mestizos tops.
We have developed two very different fabrics for the Ranchero:
a) “Dobby Stripe”: a fine white 100% cotton broadcloth woven with a Dobby loom. This specific fabric was duplicated from a rare vintage piece, the fancy plastron of a 1920’s European Henley shirt (actually the inspiration for the Charro Bib Henley.) It was expertly woven in Japan. The tiny color accents are woven black and navy yarns, and not a print.
b) “Indigo Calico”: a crispy 100% cotton selvedge popeline, indigo dyed to our specific hue, with a discharge AND a ‘madder’ red tiny print, inspired by several vintage swatches from our archives.
On a side note, many seem to have gotten on the ‘Indigo Calico’ bandwagon in the recent years, they can now figure out how to add a color on top. I wrote a bit about the discharge process for a previous shirt we made, the ‘Calico Trade Shirt’. The indigo dyed popeline base for the Ranchero is the same base fabric we used for our indigo Apache ‘Chemise Calico‘ in late 2010.
With an all original MF® pattern and two fabric options, the Ranchero is a pretty versatile shirt that can go dressy or casual, according to what you will match it with.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co under our MFSC collaboration. Limited Edition.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern inspired by vintage early shirting from the Americas and Europe.
FABRIC: Two options
a) “Dobby Stripe”: Fine white 100% cotton broadcloth woven with a dobby loom.
b) “Indigo Calico”: 100% cotton selvedge popeline, indigo dyed, with a discharge and a ‘madder’ red tiny print.
DETAILS:
* ‘Old West’ type silhouette.
* Full button front.
* Double button collar closure.
* Original MF® box pleat single chest pocket and ‘cut away’ collar.
* Cotton indigo popeline button hole placket facing, white cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Rounded front tail and square back tail.
* High stitch count chain stitch flat felled seam construction.
* Selvedge side gusset (self with indigo version and indigo popeline on Dobby stripe option)
* Sheared wrist cuffs.
* Double front and back shoulder yoke expansion pleats, a MF® signature.
* Painted embossed metal buttons, 1930’s workwear type.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
SIZING/WASHING:
This is not a tight fitting shirt, unlike our original Utility chambray from the “Naval Clothing Tailor” days for instance. Wear a medium if you are a medium in mfsc though.
Both fabric come raw/unwashed, and will shrink to tagged size.
We recommend an original cold wash on gentle cycle, minimal eco-friendly detergent and line dry.
Sizing Chart coming soon
Available RAW/unwashed
Sizes: Small, Medium, Large, X-Large
Retail
a) White $399.95
b) Indigo $399.95
Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.
“HACENDADO Waistcoat” Mister Freedom® MFSC
‘Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2012
Introducing the third addition to our three piece Hacendado suit, with matching trousers and sack coat.
Coincidentally, the King showed up at the store today, to try a few things on. A new movie on the horizon maybe? A follow up to “Charro”?
Let’s not get lost in conjecture, as EP has now left the building. Glad we were able to snap a candid photo, when he came out of the dressing room.
We’ll just mark this April 1rst as a memorable day, thankyaverymuch…
Anyways.
We shamelessly borrowed and adopted the pattern of our “Faro Waistcoat” and made this vest in three fabric options, developed for this season:
* Stripe: Tan and indigo dyed yarns plain weave pinstripe pattern, a crispy blend of 55% hemp and 45% cotton, 6.8 oz., solid tan selvedge, inspired by a textile swatch from a 1930′s vintage waistcoat.
* Homespun: Natural/earth tones dyed yarns plain weave textile, a heavier blend of 68% hemp and 32% cotton, 11 oz., solid white selvedge, inspired by a turn of the century homespun French textile from a vintage South-West of France farmer blouse.
* Baja Denim: Lighter shade indigo dyed denim, 2×1 twill, 100% cotton, 6.5 oz., inspired by a specific indigo shade typical of Mexican artisan dyers of the time, selected from several vintage textiles of the area.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co., a limited edition.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC®, inspired by late 1800’s gents’ waistcoats. High buttoned, small fold lapel, slim snug silhouette.
FABRIC:
FRONT PANEL
a) ‘Stripe’ option: 6.8 oz selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ (as opposed to a ‘floating’ lining) 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
b) ‘Homespun’ option: 11 oz. selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Front panels lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline (unlined rear panels for this option). Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
c) ‘Baja Denim’ option: 6.5 oz. indigo dyed denim 2×1 twill, solid white selvedge, 100% cotton. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
FRONT PANEL and UNDER COLLAR lining: 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline.
BACK PANEL: Tightly woven all cotton sateen.
DETAILS:
* Intricate early waistcoat panel construction. Tailor made style.
* Adjustable back cinch strap with French New Old Stock (NOS) metal slide buckle.
* Eight button front, brown corrozo wood, aka ‘coconut wood’.
* Two front lower welt pockets
* 100% cotton thread tonal stitching.
* MFSC woven rayon label concealed under the back strap (an old tailoring detail on early custom tailor-made waistcoats, that usually included the customer name and the date, hand written)
PACKAGING: An original MF® printed denim draw string bag, reusable as a grocery bag, hand-made in our Los Angeles studio.
SIZING/SHRINKAGE:
All three fabric options come RAW (unwashed). We recommend cold soak and line dry, which will result in minimal shrinkage and no color loss. All Hacendado waistcoats will ultimately shrink to tagged size. Fuller shrinkage will be obtained with gentle machine cycle and low heat dryer, at your own risks.
The hemp/cotton blends will retain the desirable wrinkle effect typical of linen type textiles and ‘tropical’ look.
Refer to sizing chart below for approximate measurements:
 BAJA Hacendado Waistcoat
 HOMESPUN Hacendado Waistcoat Available RAW/Unwashed.
Size 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail $499.95
Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.
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