Mister Freedom® “G.I.” Two-Button Shirt, NOS indigo cotton rib knit. FW2018 Sportsman catalog. Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® “G.I.” Two-Button Shirt, NOS indigo cotton Fisherman’s rib stitch jersey knit.
The Sportsman” catalog, Fall 2018.
Made in USA.

In true Mister Freedom® fashion, we will “render unto Caesar the things that are Caesar’s” and duly credit Uncle Sam for the pattern of this garment, as we shamelessly lifted this “henley” shirt design from a US Government-issued cold weather classic from the 1950’s. Initially released under the “Undershirt, Winter, M1950 moniker, it is sometimes referred to as the “Wallace Beery” shirt.
The M-50 (model 1950) was adopted by the U.S. Army QMC in 1948, and, starting in 1950, a set of three shirts was issued to American soldiers heading out to Korean battlefields.
We are all familiar with the original military version, the unbleached wool merino-cotton blend knit shirt with the two large white buttons, and its superseding brown 436 issue, both quite a staple of old-school Army/Navy surplus stores.

Following our typical modus operandi, we decided to “civilianize” this classic US Army undershirt. For a fashionable make-over, we tapped into the final precious yardages of New Old Stock indigo cotton jersey, the handsome deep dark indigo blue yarn-dyed 100% cotton “Fisherman’s rib stitch” jersey knit, milled in USA, previously featured on the MF® Chandail Saint-Malo. The technical knitting term “Fisherman’s rib stitch” refers to the fabric’s specific weave, displaying a vertical pattern of fine ribs, with somewhat of a ‘waffle’ aspect reminiscent of vintage thermal shirts.

For the button placket, departing from the original M-50 military design with its simple matching knit placket, we decided to spice things up with extra indigo goodness. Although not quite visually noticeable at first glance, the placket is cut from a contrasting NOS plain-weave fabric, of an almost matching dark indigo color. This not only makes the button front closure sturdier than the loose-weave jersey, but also creates an attractive subtle contrast in both texture and color, promising of an interesting patina down the line.

Like the military original, our “GI” indigo shirt features the characteristic utilitarian flatlock stitch overall construction, the stretch-resistant reverse weave top shoulder gusset, the unusual inverted top seam arm stitching, the wide self-fabric cuffs, and the two ‘oversized’ cat-eyes buttons. We opted for fancy corozo wood for our version, in a complimenting rich amber brown color.

Just like with the production of the Saint-Malo, the specific horizontal mechanical stretch combined with fabric shrinkage made manufacturing the GI shirt a tour de force for our local factory. It took nearly one year of challenging sample-making and pattern-adjusting to get the fit, stitching and proportions right. After all that R&D challenge, we are quite ecstatic to finally add this little guy to the ever-growing MF® Sportsman catalog.

Style-wise, our “G.I.” Two-Button Shirt is quite versatile and can be worn as a thermal-type undershirt, as a single-layer shirt, as a light sweater over a summer-weight button shirt, like a Nixon chambray for instance. Tucked-in old-man style to compliment the classic wedgie look dear to our model, or untucked, for the younger crowd.

As always, our shirt is not available factory distressed. The subtle and attractive heather quality of the deep dark indigo will intensify as the garment fades with normal wear/wash cycles. See photos featuring a well-worn and frequently-washed early prototype, next to the freshly-issued version, for the rewarding results of naturally faded habiliment.
It is the nature of deep tone indigo-dyed garments to transfer some of the indigo blue color to other surfaces, from abrasion. The MF® GI Two-Button shirt is a real bleeder, both from the knit and woven fabric parts. On a side note, this is probably the reason why this fabric was never cut into garments, and ended-up as New Old Stock, to our delight. To avoid the soup sandwich of complains and merchandise returns, a (mystery) brand responsible for having milled this amazing indigo knit jersey likely cancelled whatever project they had with it, after realizing everyone’s hands were turning blue…

Well, we picked up where they left off, and happily played with their unwanted toy! One of the perks of being part of a small independent label, is the reassurance of a bright, responsible, adult audience, such as the one we have been cultivating for the past 12 or so years. We are so indebted to our customers for the opportunity and privilege to design all sorts of challenging, eclectic, offbeat wearables, seasons after seasons, sustainably and regardless of trends. Thank you all, Mister Freedom® ❤️ you!

CAVEAT EMPTOR: Although the indigo connoisseur will relish in the deep dark tone, the MF® “G.I.” shirt might not be an ideal garment for the faint-hearted or laundry-challenged. Indigo crocking will perdure even after several wear/wash cycles. I’ve had a blue torso from wearing mine without an undershirt! The shirt’s indigo blue will definitely rub-off on light-color garments, sofas, car seats, walls, skin, etc… Color transfer should easily wash-off with regular laundry methods, but we definitely recommend not wearing white undershirts, white shirts or white jackets with this garment for a while.
Indigo color transfer will eventually subside after about 10 wear/wash cycles, and the knit fabric settle to a beautiful typical indigo hue.

The MF® G.I. Two-Button Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA, from American NOS fabric.

FABRIC:
New Old Stock 100% cotton “Fisherman’s rib stitch” jersey knit, deep dark indigo blue yarn-dyed, milled in USA.
Note: Although not overly light-sensitive, expect substantial color crocking with this specific indigo knit fabric. It is the nature of indigo-dyed garments to transfer some of the indigo color to other surfaces, from abrasion.

SPECS:
* An original MF® pattern inspired by vintage 1950’s Government-issued US Army M1950 two-button front cold weather undershirts.
* Utilitarian flatlock stitch overall construction.
* Corozo wood buttons.
* Contrasting indigo-dyed plain-weave fabric button placket.
* Stretch-resistant reverse weave top shoulder gusset.
* Wide self-fabric cuffs.
* Inverted top seam arm stitching.
* MF® Sportsman trademark contrasting green inside stitching.
* MF® Sportsman woven label.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
After an initial cold rinse and heat dry cycle, the  MF® G.I. Two-Button Shirt will fit pretty much like our popular Stanley T-Shirt, but with much more ‘elasticity’ (mechanical stretch). If you are familiar with our Skivvy and Stanley T-Shirts, our Tricot Marin fits like a Skivvy, while our GI shirt feels more like the Stanley, due to similar fabric stretch properties.
I wear a Small in Stanley and Skivvy, and usually Medium in mfsc button shirts. I opted for a size Small in the GI shirt, with a snug initial fit that loosened-up gradually while wearing the shirt. After a day of normal wear, the shirt’s body expands a few inches in width, minimally in length. If the pattern has been specifically adjusted to avoid an unattractive “boxy” silhouette, a Small in the AM feels somewhat like a Medium in the PM.

Basically, the GI shirt will shrink to a tighter fit after laundering/heat dry, but easily expand again with wear as the knit fabric loosens up.
If you are in-between sizes, or worried about an overly-relaxed fit, we recommend sizing down on the GI shirt. As always, which size will work for you depends on your own aesthetics, body type, preference for ‘vintage’ silhouette or contemporary fit.

Refer to sizing chart for measurements, taken with the item laying flat and NOT stretched. Do keep in mind the mechanical stretch aforementioned, and expect the shirt to gain an inch or two in width as it is worn and naturally stretched over the torso.

 

Mister Freedom® GI Two-Button Shirt, size SMALL (washed/dry).

CARE:
We recommend cold wash with eco-friendly detergent, heat dryer. Wash and dry separately to avoid color transfer to light color garments.
DISCLAIMER: Beware that this indigo garment will ‘bleed’ through several wash/wear cycles, and color transfer will occur on other garments, furniture, car seats, skin, washing machine and heat-dryer drums. It is the nature of indigo-dyed garments to transfer some of the indigo color to other surfaces, from abrasion.
This indigo color transfer will eventually subside after about 10-15 wear/wash cycles.

Available raw (un-washed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

‘El Jefe’ Henley shirt, “Viva la Revolución” mfsc Fall 2014

El Jefe Mister Freedom® ©2013

 

 

Mister Freedom® MFSC “El Jefe” Henley Shirt
‘Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Fall 2012

 

It is now time for the first installment of the final chapter of our “Viva la Revolución” MFSC Fall 2013 collection. To warm things up, let’s start at the top and introduce ‘El Jefe’…

Not a very common feature of Henley type shirts is the off-set front placket of some early models. This off-centered undershirt opening was an added protection against the cold and winds, leaving the neck fully covered when a top garment was worn.
See two vintage examples here, with the close-up of that hysterical woven label… and its roughly 33 1/3 % wool fiber content, give or take 😉

Vintage-Henleys

You sometimes can spot these types of shirts in old period movies. Also in Darius Kinsey style photographic works of woodsmen and other 1900’s~30’s delicate creatures. Below, the fellow on the left appears to be wearing an off-set Henley undershirt or union suit  (20’s? from the ‘Kinsey Photographer’ book ISBN 1-884822-22-3).

©Darius Kinsey

Undershirts made of brushed cotton fleece (pilou in French) were a popular winter layer in the Old World, while the New World had preferred the cotton/wool knit jerseys, or the later waffle ‘thermal’ still used today.

For ‘El Jefe’, we chose 100% cotton brushed fleece with heathered pattern, in two color options. The heather pattern is unlike the typical athletic type fleece, but rather unique with a very un-even random repeat (something programmed machines do not like.)
The construction as well was a bit of a challenge for the factory since we wanted a ‘poncho’ type cut, ie. a single panel folded in half with no top shoulder seam. We’re crazy like that.
This made the neck opening cutting stage more complicated and time consuming than the usual front/back two panel construction (because the neck hole is in the middle, you cannot start the electrical cutter from the edge of the fabric.)
The sleeves are intentionally cut to fall a bit above the cuffs, an acquired taste and feature often seen on military winter underwear clothing, so that the under layer remains concealed under the uniform. It also somewhat prevented a sleeve to get caught in machinery.

‘El Jefe’ is quite warm and can be worn either as a layer or a outer piece, tucked in or out according to your mood or religious beliefs.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom®, made in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MSFC pattern, inspired by early European Henley type winter undershirts.

FABRIC: Mid weight 100% cotton fleece, soft brushed back, heather pattern with tightly woven cotton sateen button placket. Made in Japan. Two color ways
a)  Natural heather with off-white cotton sateen placket.
b) Grey heather with slate blue cotton sateen placket.

DETAILS
* Single panel fold, ‘poncho style’ body.
* Off center front button placket
* Natural horn cat eye button front closure.
* 3/4 type sleeves.
* Adjustable gusseted cuff button closure.
* Coverstitch construction, 100% cotton tonal thread.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/WASHING:
I am a medium in ‘El Jefe’, with a comfortable fit.
We recommend regular gentle cycle washing and line dry. Minimal shrinkage with this cotton fleece, a medium will shrink to tag size. Like with mid weight ‘sweat shirt’ type textiles, fleece stretches slightly when worn.
Please refer to chart below for raw/washed & dried approximate measurements.

El Jeffe Sizing Chart Mister Freedom®

 

Available Raw/unwashed
Size S, M, L, XL, XXL
Retail $229.95

Visit our webstore or brick and mortar in Los Angeles to get yours.
Thank you for your support 😉

“CHARRO BIB Henley”, Mister Freedom® MFSC Spring 2013 (“Viva la Revolución” Collection, Part 6/7)

Charro Bib ©2013 Mister Freedom®

“CHARRO Bib Henley” by Mister Freedom® MFSC
Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2012

‘Henley’ type shirts seem to have their origin in the town of Henley-on-Thames, England. Pull over, open neck with button placket, they were worn by local Rowing team members.
Fast-forwarding a bit…

Before T-shirts were introduced (not sure about the date, i think it was a Tuesday though), button placket pull over cotton knit undershirts were a common layer of a man’s outfit in Europe, both for civilian and military use. These were used as undershirts, not intended to be worn as an outer layer. In the ‘old days’, showing your undershirt in public would have been a faux-pas, today’s equivalent to wearing your pajamas on a date, a rhinestone logo T-shirt on the street… all the way to exposing underpants label to the unfortunate ones walking behind. But I’m diverging.

The most common henleys are usually made of a solid cotton knit jersey body, with a matching button placket (at times replaced or lined with a popeline/sateen placket.)
The inspiration for our Charro Bib Henley was drawn from several unusual vintage 1920’s European Henley type shirts from our archives. These had the traditional jersey knit body but also a front plastron made of fancy shirting fabric, and a band collar with studs for attaching a removable collar of the same fancy fabric. They were the ‘poor man’ fancy shirt, as they required less costly fabric to manufacture (a solid cotton knit jersey being a cheaper fabric than a woven jacquard calico printed textile for example.) When wearing a waistcoat and a coat on top, the norm, no-one knew you were ‘missing’ the sleeves and most of the body…

With that story in mind, we tweaked the design a bit, and created two different versions of the Charro Bib Henley.
a) White 18/single (referring to the weight) tubular (loopwheel) cotton knit jersey body, with a white ‘Dobby Stripe’ woven jacquard calico printed plastron (some NOS from our previous Chemise Fantaisie).
b) Deep indigo dyed 18/single cotton knit jersey body (with side seams), with an indigo dyed discharge calico printed cotton popeline. We were happy to discover some NOS yardage from our previous Chemise Calico aka the ‘Johnny Depp‘ shirt. This is how this fabric will fade over time.
All above textiles milled/dyed/printed in Japan.

Our charro bib can be worn as a regular shirt, or an undershirt for a layering look.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co under our MFSC collaboration. Limited Edition.

SPECS:
* PATTERN: An original mfsc pattern, inspired by 1920’s vintage European Henleys.
* FABRICS: Two options
a) White 18/single tubular (loopwheel) cotton knit jersey body, with a white woven jacquard calico printed plastron.
b) Deep indigo dyed 18/single cotton knit jersey body (with side seams), with an indigo dyed discharge calico printed cotton popeline.

DETAILS:
* 18/single 100% cotton jersey body
* Fancy popeline/jacquard plastron
* Band collar
* Three button front closure, 30’s work-wear style metal painted buttons.
* Tonal cotton popeline shirting style cuffs.
* Underarm gusset piece.
* Half moon back neck reinforcement piece.
* Original mfsc woven rayon ‘hanging loop’ style label.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.

SIZING/WASHING:
Hand wash only, cold water, gentle cycle, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
With the indigo dyed version, some minimal bleeding is expected and normal (bleeding will wash off eventually.)
Wear a medium if you are generally a medium in Mister Freedom® mfsc shirts.

Available RAW/unwashed
Sizes: Small, Medium, Large, X-Large

Retail
a) White $149.95
b) Indigo $159.95

Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.

Mister Freedom® Original Indigo dyed vintage Henleys

Mister Freedom Indigo Dyed Henleys

As we mentionned on twitter, Mister Freedom® has its own in-house INDIGO VAT 😉
I’ve been wanting a vat for the longest time and all it took was a bit of research and trial by error… Not willing to compete with centuries of experienced indigo dyeing from the Old World, but just wanted to crack the magic of the process.
So off we go: Very small batches of garments are coming out, with that fascinating color I never get tired of looking at. Different shades, according to number of dips, textile, ‘health’ of the vat, winds and moods.
It’s done about the same way folks used to over-dye garments in the back of the house 100 years ago.
Each piece comes out unique, irregular… but all indigo blue!

We have hand dyed a limited batch of vintage New Old Stock Henleys, three buttons, all cotton, 3/4 sleeves, 1940’s~50’s Swiss Government military issue (the Swiss know their Henleys…)
Different manufacturers/contracts/specs/knit, found dead stock in a military surplus warehouse.
After the hand dyeing process, we re-labelled the shirt to stamp the vat date.
The core of the cotton yarn is still of the original natural color, the indigo color on the outer surface of the fiber. The shirts will fade with repeat washing and wear.
They have been cold washed with gentle detergent, but some indigo bleeding might still occur.

Available WASHED and pre-shrunk
Sizes Assorted
(because of the nature of the cotton knitt, the shirts stretch and are difficult to measure. We will ‘guess’ sizes from S to L). They look good tight and stretched out, as an undershirt should fit.
Retail $149.95

Call the store at (323) 653-2014 or Email  sales@misterfreedom.com  to get yours while they last. We ship internationally

Mister Freedom® “Gym Henleys” (MF 6744)

 MF-Gym-Henleys
MF-Gym-Henleys4 MF-Gym-Henleys3
MF-Gym-Henleys2 MF-Gym-Henleys1

Need to get rid of that muffin belly before the summer, pally?… Go hit the bag.

MISTER FREEDOM® Gym Henley MF 6744
SPECS:
* NOS American all cotton tubular jersey knit (no side seams)
* Lightweight and soft texture
* Wide palette of colours available, blues, reds, browns, white/black…
* Close fitting early undershirt silhouette
* Traditional flat overlock construction
* Contrast placket lining, assorted colours
* Contrast 2 by 1 ribbed collar band
* Baby overlock bottom “rolling” edge
* Metal NOS European military buttons, some models with fabric covered buttons
* 100% cotton contrast thread stitching
* Solid front and back, no graphic (have no fear, the thingy on the chest is a removable sticker)
* Each shirt slightly differs in size and shade
* Made in California,  good ol’ USA

On Sizing:
Due to the nature of 100% cotton jersey knit, the shirts will stretch naturally and adjust to the body of the wearer. (A size 36 out of the dryer will feel tight at first, but will stretch out a few inches in the chest when worn, think old Hanes tubular Tshirts…)
Most shirts vary slightly in sizes (due to eclectic shrinkage of all the different knits/colours) but are classified in six size groups: 34 to 44.
The length is an average ratio of 1.5 to the chest measurement. (36 = Chest 17 inches/ Length 17×1.5=25.5 inches). The bottom hem roll-up naturally, due to baby overlock stitching.

For an average and approximate reference (laid flat before wear):
A size 36 (~small): approx. Width 16 -17 inches across the chest, approx. Length 24-25
A size 38 (~medium): approx. Width 18 -19 inches across the chest, approx. Length 27-28
A size 40 (~large): approx. Width 20 -21 inches across the chest, approx. Length 30-32
A size 42 (~Xlarge): approx. Width 22  inches across the chest, approx. Length 27-28
(I know, we couldn’t make it more confusing…Sorry!)

Available Washed only (fully shrunk)
Available Sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 (most colours not available in full size scale, due to limited supply of tubular body fabric we used.)
Retail $49.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.