Mister Freedom® Campus jacket, natural veg-tan cowhide, Special “SUNSHINE” Edition. Made in USA, suntanned in California.

Brand new MF® Campus Jacket veg-tan cowhide, day one.

Part of the MF® Campus Jacket “SUNSHINE” process.

Lot.36A MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.36A MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.36B MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.36B MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

 

Lot.38A MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.38A MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.38B MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.38B MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

 

Lot.40A MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.40A MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.40B MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.40B MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.40C MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.40C MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.40D MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.40D MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.40E MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.40E MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

 

Lot.42A MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.42A MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.42B MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.42B MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.42C MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.42C MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.42D MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.42D MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.42E MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.42E MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.42F MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.42G MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.42H MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

 

 

Lot.44A MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.44A MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.44B MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Lot.44B MF® Campus “SUNSHINE” Jacket.

Well-worn MF® Campus Jacket evo, early proto from 2013, CL perso ©2020

Mister Freedom® CAMPUS Jacket  “Sunshine” edition.
The Sportsman’ catalog.
Made in USA.

We thought a bit of sunshine wouldn’t be unwelcomed these days!
This is a project we actually started developing a while back, occasionally supplying costume designers and stylists with unique specimen for the movie or entertainment industry over the years. We figured some of you might also enjoy these, so they are now documented.
This small select grouping of natural veg-tanned MF® Campus jackets have all received a special outdoor treatment over several months, bathing under our lovely California sunshine and conditioned with ample doses of patience and elbow grease!
The whole process is a bit more involved than just sticking a pale out-of-box Campus Jacket on a hanger in the sun, and watch it magically morph into a golden beauty. The desirable warm orange tones characteristic of old vintage “cossack” type jackets are usually the result of 90 years of wear, neglect, exposure to the elements, … not just suntanning. Additionally, while exposure is key, if the jacket is left too long outside, the sun is more likely to bleach out the golden tones than darken them. Timing is important, and none of the process is an exact science.

Our friend John VEB V has documented his journey with his own Campus early on, and with outstanding results. We pretty much followed a similar procedure for this “Sunshine” batch, without the wearing part. Here is a summery of the high-maintenance process:
1) We set the veg-tanned Campus on a bust form outside, stuffed the arms and body with paper to avoid un-natural tan lines and fold marks. Let the jacket sit outside for several days, rotating it around, exposing all covered areas (under collar, arm pits, side gussets, etc…) From its initial natural pale pink color, a ‘copper pink’ gradually develops…
2) After some time, depending on weather and according to visible results, we generously wiped the entire jacket with a clean, damp cloth. This tends to bring the skin side of the leather “to life”, somewhat sealing it from future water spots. Each leather panel will react differently to water, some slightly shrinking, some slightly stretching, creating natural torquing and subtle seam puckering.
Briefly putting the jacket on to set some natural creases is an option at this stage, but stuffing/shaping it again a key step.
3) Let the sun do its thing again for several days, moving the jacket around a few times a day.
4) When the leather has taken a darker tone and looks ‘thirsty’, condition the entire jacket by hand-rubbing every panel and seams with a combination of Pecard Leather Dressing, saddle conditioner, and our own secret sauce. Rub, rub, rub… all along making sure to not apply conditioner to the corduroy facing nor to the flesh side.
5) Let the sun dry-up the leather again, then repeat steps above according to results and desired effect… This can take months, and feels like a full-time job after a while!

Each Campus specimen reacts differently to this whole process, according to the specifics of the hides used in the construction, which part of a hide each panel is cut from, the leather grain, the amount of conditioning and rubbing, length of exposure, UV levels, etc… Some hides tan much faster than others, some develop warmer tones than others, giving each jacket its own character.
Because of their uniqueness after this treatment, we are providing measurements for each jacket, following our usual sizing method.

Please note that we just wanted to kick-start the process of a natural patina, not ‘distress’ the jacket or mimic a vintage patina. These few select MF® Campus jackets “Sunshine” edition definitely remain a DIY project for the future owner, they have 100% life left in them, as they have not been weakened by industrial “vintage” distressing.
Actually wearing the garment is the only way to develop an authentic wear-and-tear patina, arm creasing, daily nicks and scratches, natural staining, leather stretching and cracking, … eventually achieving the ultimate lived-in patina that tends to make well-made ‘heritage’ garments more valuable and appealing used than new. It definitely contributes to our MF® humble rags maintaining their resale value, keeping them cherished as heirlooms and away from fast-fashion landfills.

We are offering a few limited sizes for now, and inventory will be according to our ability to process more, time, weather, etc… Again, some of these “Sunshine” specimen have actually started their high-maintenance tanning/conditioning journey more than a year ago, not exactly a click away on Amazon for restock! New inventory will be added to this post when available.

If interested in the style and design background of the original Mister Freedom® Campus Jacket, please refer to the original 2013 post for the full specs.

The naturally “aged” MF® Campus Jacket “SUNSHINE” edition in veg-tanned cowhide leather is designed, made, and organically processed in California by Mister Freedom®.

Limited sizes soon available from www.misterfreedom.com
These few Campus “SUNSHINE” Jackets are not part of the on-going sale.

Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® “BALOO” Jacket, Black veg-tan TEA-CORE cowhide & sheepskin combo, Sportsman FW2019. Made in USA.

“See, I believe that large piece of metal right there is called the motor”.

“See, there must be more to life than wearing ridiculously good-looking jackets. I just don’t know what that is.”

“The Lords of Flatbush” meets “The Office”.

Mister Freedom® “Black BALOO” Jacket, black veg-tan ’Tea-Core” cowhide leather & sheepskin.
Fall 2019 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

The MF® BALOO Jacket pattern is our take of the famous vintage “Grizzly” style, a popular garment of 1930’s working America, combining mouton fur and leather in one handsome waist-length fashionable coat. Originally designed with ease of movement in mind for outdoor activities in cold temperatures, the Grizzly style soon replaced the more cumbersome full-fur coats of the late 1800’s – early 1900’s.
Surviving vintage specimen are today highly-collectible, but often too dried-out for wear, most original 1930’s Grizzly jackets ending-up as wall display.

Our BALOO is not a straight-up replica of these early outdoor jackets, rather the morphing of a MF® Campus into a “Bear Jacket”, as Grizzlys are sometimes referred to. The resulting garment is a contemporary piece, easier to pull-off these days than a buffalo coat, yet retaining its vintage appeal.

We spent some time last year developing a black “tea-core” leather, and unveiled the “STALLION” last week, a Fall 2019 black version of our staple Campus Jacket. We are also adding a “Black BALOO” to the Mister Freedom® mfsc Sportsman catalog this season. A small batch of jackets using the same black tea-core leather with matching sheepskin panels was produced.

As previously mentioned, “tea-core” leather refers to an old-school tannery dyeing method, distinct from the more commun dip-dyed method. “Tea-core” dyeing results in the skin side color being different from the flesh side color. Traditionally, to achieve this, hides are first dip-dyed in a light brown color. This is followed by spraying the skin side with a darker color top-coating. Japanese industry experts refer to this type of leather as Cha-Shin (茶芯)Cha meaning brown, and Shin meaning core. It is a sought-after characteristic of vintage engineer boots and older leather jackets.

Starting with our MF® signature natural ‘pink’ veg-tan cowhide introduced in 2013 with the 1930’s style “Campus Jacket”, we worked with a tannery willing and patient enough to comply with our demands and high expectations, and added our twist on black tea-core leather. The idea was simply to combine the patina potential of veg-tan natural leather (a sun-tanning/wearing/conditioning journey mastered and well-documented by our friend USMC MGySgt John “VEB”) with a solid black appearance.

The BALOO being fully lined, the “tea-core” is initially only noticeable to the keen eye, on the edges of the side cinch straps, key-hole button holes, and arrow-head pocket stops. As the Black BALOO gets some mileage and naturally ages, normal abrasion of the thin black topcoat from wear will reveal the natural ‘pink’ underside, in turn evolving into a rich golden tone. With patience, regular wear, with the expected nicks, scratches, water spills, natural sun-exposure and occasional conditioning with products such as Pecard Leather Dressing, an attractive patina is likely to develop.
Anyone is free to experiment with his/her own method for a natural patina, understanding that actual wear and patience will always beat dragging the jacket behind a truck. I am not making this up.

The MF® “Black BALOO” Jacket in black veg-tan ’Tea-core” cowhide leather and matching sheepskin panels is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®.

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original pattern inspired by 1930’s sportswear ‘Cossack’ type unlined leather jackets, 1930’s “Grizzly” type leather jackets, and other vintage sportswear and outdoor garments.

LEATHER:
* Black vegetable-tanned “Tea-Core” full grain cow hide leather, black topcoat with natural-color flesh side, milled and supple, about 2-3 Oz weight. Exclusively developed for MF®.
* Soft-hand genuine sheepskin panels.

Lining: 100% cotton brushed flannel with a 1940’s-50’s-inspired vibrant plaid pattern, discharge-printed. Fabric milled in Japan.

NOTE: The Mister Freedom® Black BALOO Jacket is made of genuine leather. We use full-grain, and not top-grain leather (aka corrected or buffed leather, sanded to level surface inconsistencies). No two hides are alike and each panel may feature variations in texture along with natural imperfections.

DETAILS:
* Vintage 1930’s style, inspired by our Cossack-style MF® Campus Jacket and Grizzly-style American sportswear jackets.
* Fully lined with a soft cotton brushed flannel featuring a vintage style discharge-printed plaid pattern.
* Single panel sheepskin back.
* Slash pockets with arrow-head pocket stops.
* Side gussets with adjustable side straps (NOS metal slide buckles)
* Keyhole button holes.
* Corozo ‘Cat Eyes’ wood buttons, backed by genuine bone buttons.
* Mister Freedom® woven “Sportsman” label.
* Made in USA.

SIZING:
The MF® BALOO Jacket is ready-to-wear and true to size.
The fit could be quite snug, depending on one’s body type. If planning on layering, with a heavy cable knit wool sweater and a denim jacket for instance, considered sizing up for a comfortable fit.
I am usually a 38 in mfsc jackets and opted for a 38 in the Black BALOO, with enough room for a lightweight layer underneath.

Refer to sizing chart below for approximate measurements. Please consider the thickness of the sheepskin when trying to match your chest measurements and the jacket’s measurements. Please contact sales@misterfreedom.com if in doubt about sizing.

CARE:
No specific initial conditioning or pre-treatment is required. Just wear and enjoy the slow patina evolution.
According to frequency of wear and exposure to the elements, some conditioning might be applied to the sleeves if the leather feels dry, using products similar to Pecard Antique Leather Care. Be aware that conditioning should be applied with care and expertise.
* Do not use heavily-oily products designed for footwear, such as neatsfoot oil.
* Do not attempt to condition the sheepskin panels…
* Do not dry clean. Even professional leather cleaning facilities might not be competent on how to treat the specific BALOO jacket veg-tan leather/sheepskin/cotton lining combo.
* Should parts of your jacket get accidentally stained from normal wear, consider this a normal stage of the evolution of a garment made for the outdoors.
Embrace the fact that the black “Tea-Core” leather is prone to get nicked and scratched, revealing the natural color under-layer, unavoidably showing signs of wear. Occasional conditioning when needed (according to actual frequency of wear) will contribute to an attractive warm tone natural patina, and a healthy-looking leather.

Available Sizes:

34 (X-Small)
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (XLarge)
44 (XXLarge)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom® “STALLION” Campus jacket, Black veg-tan TEA-CORE cowhide, FW2019, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® “STALLION” Campus Jacket, black veg-tan ’Tea-Core” cowhide leather.
Fall 2019 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

We have been working on this project for quite some time now, and are quite thrilled to announce that… it’s a wrap, the MF® Campus is, not only back in black, but “tea-core” black!

A term today familiar to vintage leather jackets/boots collectors and heritage fashion aficionados, “tea-core” leather refers to an old-school tannery dyeing method, distinct from the more commun dip-dyed method. “Tea-core” dyeing results in the skin side color being different from the flesh side color. Traditionally, to achieve this, hides are first dip-dyed in a light brown color. This is followed by spraying the skin side with a darker color top-coating. Japanese industry experts refer to this type of leather as Cha-Shin (茶芯), Cha meaning brown, and Shin meaning core. It is a sought-after characteristic of vintage engineer boots and older leather jackets.

This dyeing method is often considered undesirable by major brands (from car seat manufacturers to garment makers), as tea-core leather offers poor ‘colorfastness’. The thin topcoat wears-off overtime, gradually exposing the lighter tone of the under layer. If the fast-aging quality of “tea-core” leather is considered a defect by some, it contributes to a rewarding and desirable patina for others.

Sourcing black-dyed leather in the market in not difficult, but, ever in the front row of the soup sandwich line, the MF® Design Dept wanted something a bit more ‘special’ for this black iteration of our traditional “Campus Jacket”. Initially introduced in 2013 in the MF® signature natural ‘pink’ veg-tan cowhide, the mission this time was to combine the patina potential of veg-tan natural leather (a sun-tanning/wearing/conditioning journey mastered and well-documented by our friend USMC MGySgt John “VEB”) with a solid black appearance. We developed this special exclusive leather with a tannery that was willing and patient enough to comply with our demands and high expectations.
After months of costly R&D, there it is!

As the jacket gets some mileage and naturally ages, normal abrasion of the black topcoat from wear will reveal the natural ‘pink’ underside, in turn evolving into a rich golden tone. With regular wear, with the expected nicks, scratches, water spills, natural sun-exposure and occasional conditioning with products such as Pecard Leather Dressing, the patina of your well-worn MF® STALLION Campus jacket should be nothing short of “spectacular”, as our friend Daniel likes to put it.

This specific gratifying feature of our Campus jacket not only makes this garment retain a high resale value, but might also someday qualify it as a rare desirable family heirloom, should Made-in-USA wearables become a thing of the past, once small independent labels all get leveled by Fast-Fashion giants and the norms that consumerism dictates.

The MF® “STALLION” Campus Jacket in black veg-tan ’Tea-core” cowhide leather is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®.

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original pattern inspired by 1930’s sportswear ‘Cossack’ type unlined leather jackets.

LEATHER: Black vegetable-tanned “Tea-Core” full grain cow hide leather, black topcoat with natural-color flesh side, milled and supple, about 2-3 Oz weight. Exclusively developed for MF®.

NOTE: The Mister Freedom® Black CAMPUS Jacket is made of genuine leather. We use full-grain, and not top-grain leather (aka corrected or buffed leather, sanded to level surface inconsistencies). No two hides are alike and each panel may feature variations in texture along with natural imperfections.

DETAILS:
* 1930’s silhouette.
* One piece back.
* Fully unlined, clean seams inside & out.
* Black outside color, ‘pink’ inside, for an attractive over time ’vintage’ patina.
* Cotton corduroy collar and wrist cuff facing.
* Slash pockets with arrowhead-shaped edges.
* Side gussets with adjustable side straps (NOS metal slide buckles.)
* Keyhole button holes.
* Dark brown ‘Cat-Eyes’ corozo wood buttons (aka ivory nut), backed by contrasting ivory-color corozo support buttons.
* Underarm venting eyelets.
* Mister Freedom® ‘The Sportsman’ woven label behind the slash pocket, right front panel.
* Sturdy poly-cotton thread stitching.
* Made in California, USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® “STALLION” Campus Jacket does not require any type of pre-treatment or conditioning and is ready to wear as-is. This garment is cut quite slim but is considered true-to-size.
Keep in mind that we are referring to a classic old-school type fit, not a contemporary streetwear silhouette.

I wear a size 38 in the “STALLION” Campus Jacket, my consistent size in all Campus jackets iterations, and my usual size in mfsc jackets. 
Please refer to flat measurements in chart below.

CARE:
Embrace the fact that the “Tea-Core” leather is prone to get nicked and scratched, revealing the natural color under-layer, unavoidably showing signs of wear. Occasional conditioning when needed (according to actual frequency of wear) will contribute to an attractive warm tone natural patina, and a healthy-looking leather.
We recommend Pecard Leather Dressing
, following this method.
Do not use overly-greasy neatsfoot oil or leather conditioners specific to footwear. Do not try to hasten the ‘vintage look’ by excessively conditioning the leather, as this will only result in the garment looking ‘wet’.

Note: Some shedding of the leather ‘flesh’ side may occur temporarily and leave (brush-able) flecks visible on dark shirts. This light shedding will eventually subside with normal wear.

Available Sizes:
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (XLarge)
44 (XXLarge)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc Collection preview: “Pioupiou” (JP), “Surplus” (JP) and “Sportsman” (USA).

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “PIOUPIOU” mfsc Collection (made in Japan)

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “PIOUPIOU” mfsc collection.

FW2019 MF® “Mecano” Jacket, indigo HBT cotton/linen.

FW2019 MF® “Le Vaillant”, indigo HBT cotton/linen.

FW2019 MF® “Mecano” Jacket, SC 401 Hawaii denim.

FW2019 “Le Vaillant” Pants, SC 401 Hawaii denim.

FW2019 MF® Chemise “Poilu”, blue dobby stripe.

FW2019 MF® Chemise “Poilu”, white dobby stripe.

FW2019 MF® “Musette” mf7161 (Sportsman)

FW2019 MF® Chemise “M-35”, ticking.

FW2019 MF® Chemise “M-35”, indigo linen.

 

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SURPLUS” mfsc Collection (made in Japan)

 

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SURPLUS” mfsc collection.

FW2019 MF® “Mattock” Jacket, corduroy.

FW2019 MF® “Trailblazer”, brushed sateen, rust.

FW2019 MF® “Trailblazer”, brushed sateen, Prussian Blue.

FW2019 MF® “N-1H” Deck Jacket, brown Jungle Cloth.

FW2019 MF® “Tonkinoise”, double indigo.

FW2019 MF® “Mulholland DRIZZLE-KING”, cachou canvas.

FW2019 MF® “Mulholland DRIZZLE-KING”, cachou canvas.

FW2019 MF® “Mulholland DRIZZLE-KING”, cachou canvas. DIY beeswax-treated prototype.

 

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” mfsc catalog, Fall/Winter 2019 (made in USA)

 

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” mfsc catalog additions.

FFW2019 MF® “Baloo” Black edition, black tea-core cowhide..

FW2019 MF® Californian” Lot.54BB, NOS Cone Mills denim.

 

FW2019 MF® “Ranch Blouse” and “Californian” Lot.64, indigo x black ‘Midnight’ denim edition.

FW2019 MF® “Ranch Blouse”, indigo x black ‘Midnight’ denim edition.

FW2019 MF® “Californian” Lot.64, indigo x black ‘Midnight’ denim edition.

FW2019 MF® “Speedways”, NOS ‘beatnik green’ corduroy.

FW2019 MF® “Campus” Jacket, ‘Stallion’ edition, black tea-core cowhide.

FW2019 MF® “Sportsman Chinos”, NOS 2×1 denim.

 

 

FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc collections.

Our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Fall/Winter 2019 contribution to the world of Menswear fashion this up-coming season will consist of three groupings, FW2019PIOUPIOU”, “SURPLUS” and “SPORTSMAN”.

The “PIOUPIOU” collection is our 2019 theme-based capsule collection.
The obsolete term “Pioupiou” was a happy-go-lucky nickname given to French soldiers heading out to the frontlines on the onset of WW1. As the “Great War” (1914-1918) dragged on, and trenches of the Western Front revealed their terrifying reality, the sobriquet quickly changed to “POILU” (literally ‘hairy’), ’tough guy’ or badass in period jargon…
Our collection is loosely inspired by French military-issued garb of the 1910’s to the 1930’s. It blends period utility uniforms and revisited vintage civilian attire into contemporary wearables, following the usual MF® “might have been” design approach.
The FW2019 “PIOUPIOU” line-up, all garments produced in Japan, will consists of:
1) “MECANO” Jacket:
* Indigo cotton/linen HBT, 15 Oz.
* 14Oz. SC 401 “Hawaii” selvedge denim.
2) Pantalon “LE VAILLANT”:
* Indigo cotton/linen HBT, 15 Oz.
* 14Oz. SC 401 “Hawaii” denim.
3) Chemise “POILU”:
* 100% cotton blue sateen/popeline dobby stripe
* 100% cottonwhite sateen/HBT dobby stripe.
4) Chemise “M-35”:
* 100% indigo Linen plain weave.
* 100% cotton indigo stripe ticking, 4.5 Oz.

The SURPLUS” collection, our twist on classics and all-original vintage-inspired creations, produced in Japan, will consist of:
1) “MATTOCK” Jacket:
Heavy Corduroy, camel color, 14 Oz., with “Troy Blanket” lining.
2) “MULHOLLAND DRIZZLE-KING” Jacket:
100% cotton “Cachou” Brown canvas, 13 Oz.
Also shown on the photos is a DIY beeswax-treated prototype.
3) “TRAILBLAZER” Shirt:
100% cotton Brushed Sateen, Rust color or Prussian blue.
4) N-1H Deck Jacket:
100% cotton Jungle Cloth, 14 Oz., “Mulholland” brown.
5) “TONKINOISE” Shirt:
“Gunslinger” double indigo selvedge twill, 12.4 Oz.

The SPORTSMAN” collection, our on-going catalog of classics and all-original vintage-inspired creations, made in USA, will consist of:
1) “BALOO” Jacket, Black Edition:
USA-sourced MF® exclusive black tea-core (chashin) cowhide, brushed cotton flannel lining.
2) “RANCH BLOUSE” Midnight:
16 Oz. “Midnight” selvedge denim, indigo x black twill.
3) “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.64 Midnight:
16 Oz. “Midnight” selvedge denim, indigo x black twill.
4) “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.54 Buckle Back:
NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. selvedge indigo denim.
5) “SPEEDWAYS” Jeans:
NOS 100% cotton corduroy, “beatnik” green.
6) “CAMPUS” Jacket, ‘Stallion’ Edition:
USA-sourced MF® exclusive black tea-core (chashin) cowhide, unlined.
7) “SPORTSMAN CHINOS” Frontier:
NOS 10.5 Oz. 2×1 rigid denim.
8) “GI” HENLEY”:
NOS indigo rib knit, 100% cotton.
9) “MUSETTE” MF 7161: (pictured above with the “Pioupiou” Collection)
NOS waxed canvas, navy blue, chainstitch.
10) JD “SCUTTLER” Cap: (pictured above with the “Pioupiou” Collection)
NOS French workwear woven stripe, 100% cotton.

Voila!

Drop dates for these FW2019 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc pieces should start beginning August 2019, as production in ethically-operated Japan and USA factories completes.
Each garment will be fully documented on this blog at the time of release, and the whole line-up will be available from www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store. A selection of mfsc FW2019 will also be available from fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you very much for your support.
Sincerely,

Christophe LOIRON
MF®
©2019

Mister Freedom® LAWRENCE Jacket, veg-tan leather and up-cycled antique Kilim. Limited FW2018 edition, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® “Lawrence” Jacket, Caravan A.

Mister Freedom® “Lawrence” Jacket, Caravan B.

Mister Freedom® “Lawrence” Jacket, Caravan C.

Mister Freedom® “Lawrence” Jacket, Caravan D.

Mister Freedom® “Lawrence” Jacket, Caravan E.

Mister Freedom® “Lawrence” Jacket, Caravan F.

Mister Freedom® “Lawrence” Jacket, Caravan G.

Mister Freedom® “Lawrence” Jacket, Caravan H.

 

Mister Freedom® “LAWRENCE” Jacket, up-cycled antique Kilim rugs/blankets.
FW2018 Limited Edition.
Made in USA.

For this glorious season, we concocted a special one-of-a-kind rendition of the Mister Freedom® Baloo jacket, the furry little number we had introduced last Fall. The Baloo, our interpretation of the popular 1930’s “grizzly” type leather coats, and a bear necessity for the classic leather jacket connoisseur today, got back to the drafting table for a new wacky spin à la MF®.
We are calling this Fall 2018 garment the “LAWRENCE”, a reference to the wild Arabian adventures of famed British archeologist, camel-riding diplomat, khanjar-toting gentleman, gone-native Army Captain, Thomas Edward Lawrence.

Having watched Lawrence of Arabia‘s exciting silver screen saga one-time-too-many (cue-in Maurice Jarre’s haunting score), someone at the office had the balmy idea of spicing-up the ol’ MF® Baloo pattern with a dash of exotic oriental flavors!
Taking the usual MF® liberties with geography, cultural authenticity, historical accuracy and common sense, it was decided to blend antique oriental textiles with our classic leather jacket. By incorporating into our USA-made Baloo pattern a mixed bag of vintage rugs or blankets out of the “Rug Belt” (think bygone Persian and Ottoman Empires, the Middle East and South Asia), our plan was to deliver a somewhat plausible local souvenir that ‘Aurens could have brought home from his tumultuous epic travels, a custom-made jacket to go ride his Brough Superior around, Bedouin-style, back in the peaceful English countryside.

Now, this one is for the social media… The following exchange allegedly took place on a distant shore of the Red Sea, sometime in 1917, as reported by a reliable source claiming to be present at the time. This bizarre bazaar encounter is not a well-documented episode, and although its accuracy will fiercely be debated on 4chan in the coming years, historians we consulted have all confirmed it with an eye roll. So, do quote us on it, and remember where you heard it here first. This is how it was relayed to the MF® Editorial Dept., verbatim:

Souk merchant: “Yalla, English! I have nice jacket for you, souvenir from Aqaba! Has your name written on it, wallah!”
T.E. Lawrence: “Nothing is written, my good lad. Oh… wait… dude! That’s one funky fresh jacket!!”
Souk merchant: “Shukran ‘Aurens, I knew you’d dig it, habib! Toldja, mektoub! Now, paper or plastic?”
(?)

“Yep, that’s pretty much how it happened.” Words unpronounced by T.E. Lawrence & Lowell Thomas, London, 1918 (Image ©Marist College)

Above photo of “T.E. Lawrence & Lowell Thomas sit in London session portraits” 1918 courtesy of ©Marist Archives, in accurate historical context here.

In regards to style, the following statement might make anthropology textile experts cringe (they probably already left this page realizing we’re about to chop-off collectibles to turn them into “fashion” items anyways), but an amateur might point out visual similarity between certain Kilim traditional patterns and some of their hand-woven Native American counterparts. For the profane (that’s us), geometric symbolism such as tribal stripes, the famous Eye-Dazzler pattern, diamonds, stars, running water, or multicolor Anatolian Manastir motifs, do bring to mind works of early and contemporary Navajo or Pueblo weavers, and other skilled loom artists who contributed to the production of rugs and blankets of the American Southwest. The commun thread, we believe, is that commercially-produced traditional crafts of a specific ethnic group will inevitably evolve with outside demand, bartering, raw material and dye imports, foreign tastes and eventual cultural assimilation. Similar designs and symbols appear along trade routes, distant styles end-up overlapping, making cultural authenticity somewhat of a subjective concept with artisanal handicraft. So, expect an occasional “awesome Indian blanket jacket, dude!” comment, while sporting your MF® Lawrence.

After this colorful ouverture, and rather than sharing an uneducated opinion on current Arab affairs and oil barrel prices, here are a few highlights of our own saga with the MF® “Lawrence” production, for the insomniac few.
As often with USA-made projects we embark on, comes the moment we all look at each others at the HQ, with the same puzzling question: “Who the *%$#&* thought that was a good idea?” Even our intrepid MF® R&D Department expressed doubts during manufacturing…

First, we had to source the full grain veg-tan leather hides, all inspected one by one for grain, overall quality and feel. This is the same grade of leather we have been using since 2013 for the MF® Campus, and its Baloo successor. The hides are very light sensitive and initially almost ivory white, until exposed to natural daylight. The leather gradually sun-tans to a pinkish hue, eventually developing attractive golden tones.

Then, Hut, Hut, Hut, off we went on a hunting safari for vintage rugs!
We found a local Ali baba’s cave, the vault of a Pakistan-born textile expert, a gentleman specialized in legally-imported, well-documented antique oriental rugs. Going through dozens and dozens of stacked-up specimen, we focused on flat-woven Kilim rugs of the non-pile (flat weave) and non-slit family (no “openings” in the weave.) We carefully selected candidates from the first half of the 20th Century that aesthetically and technically qualified for the project. Each rug was hand-picked for its attractive geometric motifs, vintage appeal, fine color combination, unique hand-woven imperfections, occasional period hand-repairs and overall natural patina. These are woven from wool and cotton yarns, dyed in unstable, non-colorfast natural dyes, often leading to subtle color runs. This is part of their wabi-sabi charm, and the uniqueness separates them from Ikea’s versions. The kilim expert mentioned that, back home, these rugs served as wall-hanging decoration, blankets, home carpets, camel saddle covers…

Considering the latter, we took our loot to a professional cleaning facility specialized in antique rugs, an impressive old-school operation established in Los Angeles in 1926, a recommendation from our friend Channon at In The Field. We had each rug thoroughly hand-brushed, hand-washed and sun-dried, without the use of machines, quite a costly procedure, almost doubling the cost of each vintage piece!

Came the time to unroll the freshly-clean rugs back in our atelier, and figure-out how to turn them into front panels of jackets… To strategically cut according to each rug design, while trying to envision each finished jacket with well-balanced panels, we thought of making our pattern paper out of clear PVC.
It soon hit us that there is nothing remotely symmetrical in a nomadic tribal rug, hand-woven on an horizontal floor loom, somewhere in a remote mountainous region of Pakistan, some 80 years ago. Eye-balling seems to be the golden rule in metrology for the Rug Belt artisans.
After a few hours of deliberation, positioning and repositioning the pattern markers, we traced panels on each rug, combining sizes and grain direction. We then painstakingly fused the panels with high-quality woven cotton fusing, using an industrial steam iron. We, of course, chose to do this during the hottest months of summer, to fully embrace the benefits of facial steaming.
Each panel was then cut using electric shears, somewhat of a liberating experience, and carefully overlocked to avoid later fraying of the edges.

After completing this portion of the hands-on production, we resumed our water-skiing activities and badminton tournaments. The MF® atelier’s contribution was temporarily over! The jackets themselves, however, still had to get made…

We happily passed the hot potato to a local facility, who, in-turn, couldn’t wait to throw it back at us. The factory’s expert craftsmen had never worked on such a “fun” project, involving new leather and eclectic vintage textiles. Most places would have turned us down, so we are indebted to our small manufacturing source for accepting the challenge. After a few months of intricate and complicated assembly work, production management headaches and anxious back-and-forth, our Lawrence Jackets were ready! Ready, that is, for the final touch back at the MF® HQ: hand-sewing hundreds of corozo double buttons, which gets old after about five.
We are, many months later, proud to announce our one-of-a-kind and once-in-a-lifetime MF® “LAWRENCE” jackets! We hope you enjoy the finished product as much as we got our kicks during the manufacturing fantasia!

The Mister Freedom® “Lawrence” Jacket saga ©2018

As one will guess from the making-of collage, the yield (number of panels per rug), selection of sizes cut per rug, and geometric design variations per panel within each rug, all got out of control pretty quick. We had realized early-on that no-two jackets were going to be the same, making the MF® Product Photography Department quiver in anticipation of this post.
For inventory purposes, we have regrouped the MF® Lawrence jackets in eight families (called them caravans), according to the specific vintage Kilim rug they were cut from (Caravan A, B, C, D, E, F, G, or H). Not every rug yielded a full size scale, and availability of the MF® Lawrence jacket will be limited to this FW2018 batch.

DISCLAIMER:
* VEG-TAN LEATHERThe Mister Freedom® Lawrence Jacket is cut from genuine leather. We use full-grain, and not “top-grain” leather (aka corrected or buffed leather, sanded to level surface inconsistencies). No two hides are alike and each panel may feature variations in texture along with natural imperfections.
* The occasional nicks and marks on the hides we select are characteristic of pasture-raised cattle, with the implication of natural scarring from roaming and being in contact with other animals. Considering the obvious perks of outside grazing for the cattle, vs. confined indoors or in pens as required for the production of some luxury leather goods, we find these natural imperfections to be perfectly acceptable, if not a desirable trait of a Mister Freedom® leather garment. These “life” marks are inherent to full grain leather, and will blend into a natural patina when our jacket is worn, conditioned and lived-in.
* Early signs of tanning of panels may, at times, be visible on a finished garment, as we pay premium to have our leather goods produced in a pleasant, well-lit, clean and ethically-run California facility. We’ll leave the dark, un-safe, regulation-evading basements where less-fortunate workers toil, to less-regarding fast-fashion labels catering to the modern consumer’s insatiable appetite for “affordable” disposable goods. In other words, we do not consider a new jacket with partially-suntanned panels a defective garment.
* RECYCLED KILIM RUGS
The front panels feature genuine vintage kilim rugs/blankets that are about 70 to 90 years old. These can show signs of wear and natural patina, color fading and crocking, woven imperfections and unevenness, design pattern asymmetry and occasional rugged hand repairs. Due to Mister Freedom®’s background in vintage clothing, we consider these imperfections desirable. These natural flaws are inherent to up-cycling projects, such as turning antique textiles into new unique garments, still fit as wearables for next generations.
Thank you for your understanding.

The MF® LAWRENCE Jacket is designed by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in USA, from USA-sourced hides and up-cycled genuine vintage Oriental rugs of the Kilim family.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by 1930’s “Grizzly” type leather jackets, and other vintage American sportswear and outdoor garments, and somewhat by the 1962 film “Lawrence of Arabia”.
The original MF® Lawrence jacket pattern is adapted from our MF® Baloo jacket pattern, in turn adapted from the MF® Campus jacket.

MATERIALS:
* Shell: Vegetable tanned leather, full grain cowhide, milled and supple, natural finish and color, about 2-3 Oz weight, sourced in USA.
* Front panels: Up-cycled vintage Oriental rugs of the Kilim family, with a probable provenance in Pakistan and surrounding regions.
* Lining: 100% cotton brushed flannel with a 1940’s-50’s-inspired vibrant plaid pattern, discharge-printed. Fabric milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Vintage 1930’s style, inspired by cossack-type and Grizzly-type panel leather jackets.
* Fully lined with a soft cotton brushed flannel featuring a vintage style discharge-printed plaid pattern.
* Front panels cut from a vintage genuine Oriental Kilim rug.
* Full single panel veg-tan leather back.
* Slash pockets with arrow-head pocket stops.
* Side gussets with adjustable side straps (NOS metal slide buckles)
* Keyhole button holes.
* Corozo ‘Cat Eyes’ wood buttons, backed by vintage-style corozo wood “cat-eyes” buttons.
* Mister Freedom® woven “Sportsman” label.
* American-sourced hides.
* Limited Edition. Each jacket is a one-of-a-kind collectible.
* Made in USA.

SIZING:
The MF® LAWRENCE Jacket is true to size. I am usually a 38 in mfsc jackets and opted for a 38 in the MF® LAWRENCE, with enough room for a lightweight layer underneath.
The fit is relatively snug, so we do not advise sizing-down on this garment if you are in-between sizes. If planning on layering with heavy cable knit wool sweaters, consider sizing up in order to be able to comfortably button-up the jacket.
Refer to sizing chart below for approximate measurements. Please consider the thickness of the leather/Kilim/lining when trying to match your chest measurements and the jacket’s measurements. If still in doubt, please contact sales@misterfreedom.com with your specifics for recommendations.

CHART

CARE:
We recommend wearing the jacket as-is. No specific initial conditioning or pre-treatment is required. Just wear and enjoy witnessing the natural ageing and patina evolution.
According to frequency of wear and exposure to the elements, some light conditioning might be applied to the sleeves after months of continuous wear, using products similar to Pecard Antique Leather Care. Be aware that conditioning will darken the leather, and should only be applied with care and expertise.
* Do not dry clean. Even professional leather cleaning facilities might not be competent on how to treat the specific LAWRENCE jacket veg-tan leather/woolen woven rug/cotton lining combo.
* Do not use heavily-oily products designed for footwear, such as neatsfoot oil.
* Do not attempt to “wash” the Kilim woven panels. Use a dry, plastic bristle brush for cleaning if needed.
* Should leather parts of your jacket get accidentally stained from normal wear, consider this a normal stage of the evolution of an outdoor garment. As often witnessed on well-worn vintage leather jackets, wear, stains and scratches will eventually blend-in into the most attractive and unique patinas.

Available NATURAL.
Sizes
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (XLarge)
44 (XXLarge)

Front panel styles/patterns: regrouped in eight kilim families/caravans: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, or H.
Not every rug yielded a full size scale, and size/style/pattern availability is limited to this FW2018 batch.
Not all jackets were photographed, but each caravan grouping is representative of the available selection.

Note on inventory: Each jacket is numbered on the collar loop (example 38G1). The letter in the code does indicate the specific rug, but, due to the similarity in some of the woven designs, some jackets have been attributed to the wrong kilim rug during the numbering. For instance, the Lawrence jacket 40F3 is actually cut from Kilim D and should have been marked 40D3. Its photo file was renamed 40F3d, but the jacket itself was not re-branded on the collar loop.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018