Mister Freedom® Californian Blue Jeans Lot.64 LHT, NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. Left Hand Twill denim edition, mfsc SS2020, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Californian LOT.64 LHT.
NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. Left-Hand Twill selvedge denim.
mfsc Sportman catalog SS2020.
Made in USA.

We named our popular classic five-pocket jeans the “Californian” because they are made in California, USA. The MF® Californian comes in five timeless basic cuts rounded-up by Lot numbers: Lot.44, Lot.54, Lot.64, Lot.74 and Lot.674.
The Californian family grows every season (see recent timeline here), often according to how lucky we get scoring interesting New Old Stock denims.

The first installment of mfsc Spring 2020 is the Californian LOT.64 LHT. This edition features an attractive and quite rare 13 Oz. left-hand twill denim, milled in Greensboro, N.C., by the legendary Cone Mills.
LHT weave is distinct from its more commun right-hand counterpart, as it displays a wale diagonally-going from left to right, as opposed to, you guessed it, right to left. Those familiar with vintage Lee® jeans will relate to this specific weave, as LHT denim has been the fabric of choice for many H.D. Lee classics, such as their iconic 101-J, Storm Rider jacket or Rider Jeans.

Left-hand twill denims come with their specificities, including a tightly-wound indigo warp (resulting in a softer hand), and a white weft more prevalent on the face (resulting in a lighter shade of denim fabric). Fading properties also differ, and well-worn LHT denim tends to display less high contrast than RHT. However, connoisseurs and lucky owners of authentic vintage faded Lee® specimen will attest to the very attractive subtle patina. In all honesty, we haven’t had time to “beat-up” a Lot.64 LHT yet, but the HQ will keep everyone posted.
The pocket bags are cut from a fancy indigo/white woven plaid NOS fabric.

The Lot.64 pattern is our most popular cut, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise, a silhouette inspired by traditional 1950’s era blue jeans with a 1960’s twist.
If our 64 pattern has been fairly consistant throughout the years, the specific drape/weight/color of each denim does alter the silhouette of each model. Visually, this season’s NOS Cone Mills 13 Oz. LHT release has a slightly more generous leg than the recently-issued 16 Oz. Midnight denim Lot.64 MD. The fit is somewhat closer to our Lot.54 than other Lot.64s, so please consider sizing down if you are set on the usual Lot.64 silhouette, and if the rinsed measurements work for you.

The Californian LOT.64 LHT is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from NOS American denim fabric.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock Cone Mills (Greensboro, N.C., USA) 13 Oz. indigo Left-Hand Twill denim, white/red line selvedge ID.
Pocket Bags: NOS 100% cotton indigo/white woven plaid fabric.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise.
* Button fly.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS indigo/white woven plaid 100% cotton pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed natural veg-tan cowhide leather MF® branded patch on rear pocket.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange, with white accents.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge buttonhole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Original MF® silver-color ‘oxidized’ metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (red).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
All the Californian blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. For instance, a tagged W32 x L34 will technically shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

This specific Californian Lot.64 LHT edition is cut with a generous waist (referred to as “vanity sizing”), and a rinsed W32 will end-up measuring closer to 33 inches.
The Waist size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit.
I opted for a W31 with this model (my current size in MF® Californians), for a comfortable top block and generous straight leg silhouette. The resulting fit is closer to that of the Lot.54BB than our classic Lot.64. I personally could have gone down to a W30, but decided to stick to W31.
For those partial to the usual slimmer silhouette of the 64s, and should the rinsed measurements work out, consider sizing down on the LOT.64 LHT.

As with all denim twills, subtle shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Please note that, for this model, soaking in hot water or using an electric clothes dryer will hardly result in extra shrinkage after the initial cold soak.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. (soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.)

CARE:
Wash your jeans when needed and necessary. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent. Line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available RAW/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
W28 x L32
W29 x L32
W30 x L32
W31 x L32
W32 x L34
W33 x L34
W34 x L34
W36 x L36
W38 x L36

Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

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