Mister Freedom® Continental Bermudas, NOS cotton-linen “Congo Gab” & NOS Crosshatch Moss Denim, SS2019 Sportsman catalog, made in USA.

Continental Bermudas, NOS cotton-linen “Congo Gab” & cotton-linen Crosshatch Moss Denim.
mfsc SS2019 Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

We introduced our Mister Freedom® “Continental” series in early 2016, an unpretentious all-made-in-USA casual suiting concept consisting of three new patterns – Continental TrousersContinental VestContinental Sportcoat – seasonally released in a combination of vintage New Old Stock fabrics.

The Mister Freedom® “Continental” family, Sportcoat, Vest & Trousers. Made in USA.

We added a new member to the family during Spring 2018, the Continental Bermudas.

The MF® Bermudas’ pattern is derived from the original Continental Trousers, our interpretation of classic late 50’s-mid 60’s casual slacks. These tailored short trousers are a departure from, no offense, dad’s favorite 1990’s cargo shorts, the recreational fisherman’s best friend. We aimed for a more elegant silhouette on this project, more summer in the Bahamas than Sunday at Home Depot.

Anchored in a British military style tradition allegedly dating back to WW1, original ‘bermuda shorts’ called for a length of approximately one inch above the knee, which we stuck with. Whether you go for the mandatory knee-length socks, blazer and tie dear to the respectable Bermudian keen on proper insular business attire, is up to you. For a casual stroll around town in old-school Ivy League style, we think you’ll do just fine with a simple Stanley or Berkeley shirt, topped with an unstructured Continental Sportcoat, and shod in a pair of vintage penny loafers or wingtips… Better yet, do your own thing, and forget “influencers”!

The above-the-knee target length will obviously depend on where one considers the waist line to be. Our Continental Bermudas feature a mid-to-high rise, and, call us old-fashioned, we tend to think of the waist as a natural line falling right above the hips. The simple single needle hem can easily be tailored to one’s length of choice. A shorter length might convey more of a sporty and contemporary vibe, although you might want to consult with your partner before going full Daisy Dukes.

For this SS2019 release, we opted for two distinct New Old Stock fabrics from our vault, previously featured in the Sportsman catalog as iterations of the Ranger Shirt, and Continental Sportcoat, Vest, and Trousers.
The first fabric is a crosshatch (slubby warp and weft) denim twill, a fancy 70% cotton/30% linen blend, milled in Italy. This elegant yet rugged indigo moss blue cloth will fade to an attractive range of blue hues overtime, with the typical uneven crisscross “ring” lines of crosshatch denim.

The second option, an off-white “Congo Gab” fabric, is an 8.85 Oz. blend of 86% cotton and 14% linen, an elegant ivory white twill with a subtly-contrasting darker heather oatmeal weft. The face of this denim-like fabric features unbleached yarns, while the reverse displays slubby flecks of natural fibers. For those intending to pair these white bermudas with the SS2018 Continental “Congo Gabardine” Sportcoat, please note that the jacket features the oatmeal side as the face, and both piece will not match as a two-piece suit.
Our choice of “Congo Gabardine” terminology, although technically inaccurate, is a nod to vintage “Congo Cloth”. Refer to the original post and its illustrations for a bit of rambling on the subject.

For pocketing, we have outfitted both options with an elegant European woven stripe lining fabric, previously featured on the black Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit.

The Continental Bermudas are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by vintage late 1950’s and early 1960’s casual slacks with a classic, slim silhouette. Mid-to-high rise.

FABRIC OPTIONS:
a) New Old Stock 11 Oz. Crosshatch Denim Twill, indigo moss blue (blue with a greenish sheen), slubby 70% cotton 30% linen blend, milled in Italy.
b) New Old Stock ivory white twill, 8.85 Oz., blend of 86% cotton and 14% linen,  slubby oatmeal flecks and white warp, with off-white heather weft, milled origin unknown.
Pocketing:  NOS fancy woven stripe 100% cotton plain weave (ivory white with blue & grey stripes), milled in Europe.

DETAILS:
* Elegant late 1950′s early 1960’s type silhouette and fit, above the knee length.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckle.
* Amber brown corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Rear welt pockets, watch pocket.
* Coin pocket.
* Trousers-style belt loops.
* Crotch gusset pattern.
* Flat-felled side seam “caballo” construction.
* 100% cotton NOS fancy European woven stripe twill pocket bags and waist band.
* Tonal 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstitch MF® signature accents.
* Original “SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed when wearing a belt.
* Made in USA.

SIZING:
The MF® Continental Bermudas come raw/unwashed.
Both fabric options will shrink to approximately the same size after a 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
These are “vanity size”, with somewhat of a generous waist that can be cinched with the rear adjustable strap. I tend to fluctuate between W30 and W32 in mfsc trousers, according to the model, and opted for a comfortable W32 in the Continental Bermudas, in both fabrics.

Refer to sizing chart for cold soak/spin dry/line dry measurements.

CARE:
Launder when necessary.
Machine wash on delicate, garment inside-out, cold water with minimal environmentally-friendly detergent and line dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
NOTE: Full washing cycle in hot water and machine dry might result in excessive shrinkage and color loss. Not recommended.

Available Raw/unwashed
Sizes
28
30
32
34
36
38

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018

Mister Freedom® modified “Shipyard Chinos” shorts, made in USA.

US Coast Guards in a conversation with German POWs, Normandy France, 1944 (photo © U.S. National Archives)

Mister Freedom® modified “Shipyard Chinos” shorts.
Made in USA.

In an effort to make new with the old, a rather sustainable approach to consumerism, here is a Spring 2018 twist on our previously-released “Shipyard Chinos”.
Originally issued as part of our “American Sportswear NOS” Fall 2011 capsule collection, the harbinger of our “The Sportsman“on-going catalog, these utility pants have been customized into summer-weight bermudas with a handy side pocket.
The original pattern was inspired by vintage work pants and naval dungarees and features a wrap-leg construction, patch pockets and adjustable cinch-back. Along with the recently-made available Boonie Utes, these modified Shipyard Chinos shorts are now beefing-up our funky fresh, colorful, eclectic and sexy MF® Shorts section. Everything for the stylish gentleman with an urge to pay tribute to Tom Selleck.

The MF® Shipyard Chinos shorts are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and made in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRICS: 100% cotton tightly woven chino twill, milled in Japan. Dry hand, light ounce.
Three colors available, khaki, brown, navy. 

SPECS:
* An original Mister Freedom® pattern inspired by vintage work pants and naval dungarees.
* Modified into above-the-knee bermudas.
* Added side pocket.
* Front patch pockets secured in the waist band, copper rivet reinforced.
* Wrap leg construction (no side seam).
* Buckle-back adjustable strap with vintage French NOS metal buckle.
* Crotch rivet.
* Rear cotton cloth patch for custom stenciling, concealed behind back strap.
* Metal donut crest buttons for waist and fly, painted black.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Printed MF® mfsc label.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Shipyard Chinos shorts come raw/unwashed, unless specified.
They will shrink to tagged size after a cold rinse and line dry. Comfortable fit. I opted for a Size 30. Could go to 32 for a more roomy silhouette and cinch the waist. The silhouette is according to personal preferences, but i don’t recommend wearing those chinos tight. If you are a true waist 31, you should fit in a waist 30 in the shipyard chinos.
This modified shorts version of the Shipyard Chinos is cut above the knee. Results may vary according to your ratio waist/height and silhouette.

Refer to chart for measurements.
CHART

Available Raw/unwashed (unless otherwise specified on the MF® webstore)
Sizes Limited availability
28
30
32
34
36
38
Retail $229.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018

Mister Freedom® Continental Bermudas, NOS cotton-linen slate grey denim & NOS stripe twill, SS2018 Sportsman catalog, made in USA.

 

Continental Bermudas, NOS cotton-linen slate grey denim & NOS stripe twill.
mfsc SS2018 Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

We introduced the Mister Freedom® “Continental” series in early 2016, an unpretentious all-made-in-USA casual suiting concept consisting of three new patterns (Continental Trousers, Continental Vest, Continental Sportcoat) seasonally released in a combination of vintage New Old Stock fabrics.

Mister Freedom® “Continental” family, made in USA.

For Spring 2018, we are adding a new member to our Continental family… the Continental Bermudas.
Derived from the pattern of our Continental Trousers inspired by classic late 50’s-mid 60’s casual slacks, these tailored short trousers are a departure from, no offense, dad’s favorite 1990’s cargo shorts, the recreational fisherman’s best friend. We aimed for a more elegant silhouette on this project.
Anchored in a British military style tradition allegedly dating back to WW1, original ‘bermuda shorts’ called for a length of approximately one inch above the knee, which we stuck with. Whether you go for the mandatory knee-length socks, blazer and tie dear to the respectable Bermudian keen on proper insular business attire, is up to you. For a casual stroll around town in old-school Ivy League style, we think you’ll do just fine with a simple Stanley or Berkeley shirt, topped with an unstructured Continental Sportcoat, and shod in a pair of vintage penny loafers or wingtips. Better yet, do your own thing.

The above-the-knee target length will obviously depend on where one considers the waist line to be. Our Continental Bermudas feature a mid-to-high rise, and, call us old-fashioned, we tend to think of the waist as a natural line falling right above the hips. The simple single needle hem can easily be tailored to one’s preferred length however, and if we don’t necessarily recommend the Daisy Dukes look, a shorter length might convey a more sporty and contemporary vibe, for those inclined. Just don’t cut past the pocket bags. Style inspiration abound on the interwebs.
The fabrics we opted for the introduction of our Continental Bermudas are two New Old Stock textiles, a fancy slate grey crosshatch denim twill (a blend of 60% cotton and 40% linen), and a nautical all-cotton selvedge stripe twill.

The Continental Bermudas are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

Photo credits:
To the best of our knowledge, vintage illustration courtesy of Minnesota Historical SocietyGetty Images, and Philadelphia Tribune.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by vintage late 1950’s and early 1960’s casual slacks with a classic, slim silhouette. Mid-to-high rise.

FABRIC OPTIONS:
a) Slate Grey twill: New Old Stock, 8 Oz. denim twill, blend of 60% cotton and 40% linen, probable a-Italian a-origin.
b) Indigo Stripe twill: New Old Stock, woven stripe lightweight twill, selvedge, 100% cotton, USA origin.

Lining/pocketing: NOS 2×1 blue denim.

DETAILS:
* Elegant late 1950′s early 1960’s type silhouette and fit, above the knee length.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckle.
* Amber brown corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Rear welt pockets, watch pocket.
* Trousers-style belt loops.
* Crotch gusset pattern.
* Flat-felled side seam “caballo” construction.
* NOS blue denim pocket bags, waist band and fly facing.
* Tonal 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstich MF® signature accents.
* Original “SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed when wearing a belt.
* Made in USA.

SIZING:
The MF® Continental Bermudas come raw/unwashed.
Both fabric options will shrink to approximately the same size after a 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
These are “vanity size”, with somewhat of a generous waist that can be cinched with the rear adjustable strap. I tend to fluctuate between W30 and W32 in mfsc trousers, according to the model, and opted for a comfortable W32 in the Continental Bermudas, in both fabrics.

Refer to sizing chart for cold soak/spin dry/line dry measurements.

CARE:
Machine wash on delicate, pants inside-out, cold water with minimal environmentally-friendly detergent and line dry.
Stripe Twill: Some faint color transfer (from the indigo blue to the white) may be noticeable after wash, but will subside with further washing. This should not be considered as a flaw, just an inherent part of garments involving indigo-dyed yarns.

NOTE: Full washing cycle in hot water and machine dry might result in maximum shrinkage and color loss. Not recommended.

Available Raw/unwashed
Sizes (W stands for Waist. I know, but we’ve been asked)
28
30
32
34
36
38
Retail $229.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018

Mister Freedom® “Utes”, ‘Boonies’ edition, Saigon Cowboy SS2015 flashback.

Some vintage inspiration out of the Mister Freedom® archives.

Mister Freedom® “Utes” boonies edition, Experimental Camouflage.
“Saigon Cowboy” Spring 2015 flashback!
Made in japan, chopped in USA.

The current sizzling temperatures in Los Angeles are slowly getting to us, and we’re having some “Saigon Cowboy” flashbacks…
Beaucoup dinky dau, eh?
So we figured we’d give a few pairs of our camo Utility Trousers the boonies treatment, i.e. we chopped-up the legs for a local-made flair. We added a side pocket, made from the extra fabric, to store your wad of piastres or bottle of Bamiba.

Those not allergic to historical tidbits can refer to our original post, for Counter Insurgency Support Office (CISO) and other CIDG-related stories behind the design of these trousers. For more general background on why we chose controversial times such as the Vietnam War era to draw inspiration for our 2015 collection, see here.
There it is.

The “Utes” are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co, part of our SS2015 “Saigon Cowboy” mfsc collection.

FABRIC OPTIONS:
An initially white-based 100% cotton HBT fabric, printed on both sides using a double-side rotary screen technique. Milled and printed in Japan.
Face printed with an original Mister Freedom® “Experimental” camo pattern (inspired by the P1942 frogskin pattern).
Reverse printed with a solid cachou color (a reference to the caramel-like color typical of 1930’s French military canvas gear).
a) HiLand camouflage out (arid terrain, lighter)/cachou in.
b) LoLand camouflage out (jungle, darker)/cachou in.
c) Cachou out (solid)/HiLand camouflage in.

DETAILS:
* Special “Boonie” edition, hemmed bermuda length, with extra single side pocket added.
* Inspired by vintage military utility trousers.
* Slimmer ‘ARVN’-type silhouette.
* Mid-high waisted.
* Front patch pockets locked in side seam, rear patch pockets, horizontal HBT.
* Side cinch tabs, mil-spec slide buckle.
* Flat black-painted Metal “13 Stars” tack waist button.
* Oxidized black donut-type fly buttons.
* Flat felled seams, chainstitch.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Made in Japan, customized in USA.

SIZING:
All three fabric options will measure the same after an initial cold soak/line dry process. The Boonies edition are cut to fall a bit above the knee, but silhouette will differ according to ones waist/height ratio.
Refer to sizing charts for approximate measurements.
 

Available Rinsed.
Limited sizes.
RETAIL $229.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles HQ.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

Manureva Deck Shorts, cotton canvas and nep denim, mfsc Skipper Spring 2016

Manureva-rig-4

Manureva-rig-1

Manureva-rig-3

Manureva-rig-5

Manureva-rig-6

Manureva-Denim

Manureva deck shorts (Nep Denim)

 

Manureva-Banana-1

Manureva deck shorts (Banana)

 

Manureva-Flamer-Orange-1

Manureva deck shorts (Tutti frutti Orange Flamer)

Manureva-Orange-1

Manureva deck shorts (Orange)

Manureva-Cardinal-3

Manureva deck shorts (Cerise)

Manureva-Flamer-Cardinal-1

Manureva deck shorts (Tutti Frutti Cerise Flamer)

Manureva Deck Shorts
Cotton Canvas & Nep Denim
SKIPPER mfsc Spring 2016

Ou es-tu Manurevaaaaaaaaaaaa?”…  This haunting disco-beat song, penned by the versatile musical genius Serge Gainsbourg and made famous by pop singer Alain Chamfort, took over the French Hit Parade in 1979.
“But where are you Manureva”, Alain asked… A few adolescents sweating it out on the Macumba dance floor at the time probably wondered if Manureva was the name of Chamfort’s uncooperative girlfriend, but in Tahitian language, Manureva means ‘bird of voyage’, aka albatros, and the song was actually an homage to a French skipper…

Manureva is how the mighty Pen Duick IV was renamed in 1972 by its new owner. The famed aluminum trimaran sailboat originally belonged to Eric Tabarly, and disappeared at sea one day of 1978, never to be seen again…
The skipper on board on that fateful November 5th, 1978 was Alain Colas, school teacher turned skillful navigator, bushy side-burned and media-friendly. He had dreamed of one day surpassing the sea exploits of his childhood hero, the taciturn Tabarly. After a two-year hiatus due to an anchor rope accident that almost severed-off his foot, Colas succeeded in his claim for eternity at age 35, entering the lost-at-sea legends Hall of Fame while competing for the lead in the 1978 edition of the Route du Rhum race.

Today, the 68ft Manureva lays somewhere at the bottom of the North Atlantic Ocean, Alain Colas is recorded in sailing History, and the Macumba still spins the scratchy 45rpm.

Back at the marina.
With these Mister Freedom® Manureva Deck Shorts, the 4th installment of our “Skipper” Spring 2016 collection, we are following in the wake of the colorful theme of the Gabier Jacket.
The nautical reference to 1970’s Hobie Cat® sails is still there. The 70’s vibe is also pretty obvious in the pattern of these short pants. Owing less in design to the British Army bermuda shorts than to funky-fresh flare “Bush Pants” popular some four decades ago, our Manureva’s come in ga-bazillions options. We’re cray-cray like that.
Yes, we outdid ourselves in the available combo department. Originally aiming for even more variations, we sadly eliminated about 3,267 assorted Rubik’s Cube color-ways arrangements to settle on six indispensable fruity winners, for the visual gourmet.
So here’s the Skipper’s dessert menu:
A) Solid “Banana” canvas, featuring ox-blood red contrast stitching & snaps.
B) Solid “Orange” canvas, featuring ivory contrast stitching & snaps.
C) “Tutti Frutti Orange Flamer” canvas, tasty mix of banana and cerise on a bed of orange, enhanced by ivory contrast stitching & snaps.
D) Solid “Cerise” canvas.
E) “Tutti Frutti Cerise Flamer” canvas, tasty mix of orange and banana on a bed of cerise, adorned by ivory contrast stitching & snaps.
F) Solid nep denim: a lighter hue indigo-dyed selvedge 12 oz. “neppy” denim, featuring orange contrast stitching & snaps.

We are also introducing, oh-heritage-sacrilege, our FIRST plastic zipper this season! To make sure everyone notices, it’s white, with contrasting color tape, a reference to French 70’s-80’s big-teeth Riri-type zip fasteners, popular with ski wear and other fashion sportswear gear of the time. Plastic being pretty much rust-proof last time we tested, it also makes sense as a way of keeping cuckoo hidden and dry during our nautical journey.

Swag-wise, if all fabrics were previously introduced with the Gabier Jacket, only to the boldest do we recommend pairing top flamer and bottom tutti frutti. However, you know we’re capable of anything, so classy fit pics are a-coming in the very near future…
Regarding the bermuda above-knee length, there’s always the custom route. To further alienate yourself from family and coworkers, crop the Manureva’s into hot pants, and tag us on Instagram. Have mercy, sans crotch-zooms, thanks.

All skits aside, the Manureva Deck Shorts look very cool on, with a nice 70’s Playboy of the Marina nautical vibe. And if anyone thinks less of you because you’re wearing yellow shorts, let their shrink deal with their own insecurity and hang ups. This is a redneck-free zone.

The Manureva Deck Shorts are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
Inspired by 1970’s sailing gear and old Playboy® magazine ads.

FABRIC OPTIONS:
All canvases are selvedge 9.5 oz. 100% cotton, milled and dyed to our specs in Japan.
The nep denim is a lighter hue indigo-dyed selvedge 12 oz. “neppy” denim, milled in Japan.

Options are as follows:
A) Banana.
B) Orange.
C) Tutti frutti Orange Flamer.
D) Cerise.
E) Tutti frutti Cerise Flamer.
F) Indigo nep denim.

DETAILS:
* “Bush Pants” type top block pattern.
* Bermuda length, right above knee.
* White 70’s style plastic YKK zippers.
* Double snap waist closure.
* Inventive belt loops.
* Six convenient pockets.
* Painted metal snaps.
* Contrast 100% cotton stitching, caballo chainstitch construction.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
For general instructions on how we size Mister Freedom® garments, see here.

The Mister Freedom® Manureva Deck Shorts come raw/unwashed. We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. After the initial soak, all canvas options will shrink to approximately the same (tagged) size. These shorts have a generous waist and slimmer thigh section.
They are pretty much true-to-size, and I opted for a waist 32 and relaxed fit, judging the waist 30 a bit too ‘Angus Young’ on me.
Please refer to sizing chart to figure out what works for you, depending on your own body requirements and silhouette preferences.

Manureva Deck Canvas

CARE:
Wash when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails.
We recommend turning the shorts inside out to avoid marbling of the fabric, although the canvas will overtime age nicely and marbling should not be a concern. Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Available Raw/unwashed
Sizes
(W stands for Waist)
W 28
W 30
W 32
W 34
W 36
W 38
Retail:
Canvas combos: $189.95
Nep Denim: $199.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2016