Mister Freedom® mfsc “GYPSY BLUES” Fall 2017 recap.
Made in Japan.
Full collection (SS2017 & FW2017) available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017
“Le Révolutionnaire” Pantalon de Travail by Mister Freedom®
We scored a very nice lot of 1940’s-50’s New Old Stock (NOS) work-wear fabrics in France, thanks to a dear friend, Monsieur Jérome Girard, ze treasure hunter from Le Zouave
Speaking of vintage hunters friends, Arnaud Bauville from “French CanCan” and Damien from “Le Magasin” are great sources for European vintage 🙂
After their long ship voyage across the Atlantic, we decided to turn these fabrics into work trousers, inspired -but of course- by French work wear, à la façon Mister Freedom®.
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Service Civil Rural 1943 (photo courtesy © Phototèque Hachette)
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Vintage photos above from here and here courtesy of © Phototèque Hachette, © Collection Roger-Viollet, and © François Kollar “La France Travaille“.
The fabric stock came from a now defunct French teinturerie (dye house) from Amiens. Those rolls were left over and never made it to production. They were intended to be used for typical work jackets and pants to supply local farmers, construction workers, railroad crews, vignerons… with sturdy outfits that would last for decades and get patched up along the way.
Concealed inside the rolls of fabric were the original paper flashers and tags that were supposed to be attached to the finished garments. In this lot, there were mainly 6 different types of fabrics, ranging in color/texture/weight: Light blue to dark indigo, 100% cotton heavy moleskine to 100% cotton Bedford cord types (aka coutil)…
We gathered some vintage trims from our vault as well, such as original vintage 1940’s French unused woven labels “Le Révolutionnaire” (a probable reference to the wide spread ‘Front Populaire‘ Workers strikes of May-July 1936 in France), NOS stripe cotton twill for pocket bags, 1920’s NOS bone buttons for the fly, 1930’s painted metal “X” buttons for waist, NOS 2×1 indigo denim fly & waistband facing… Each pair also has its own original period paper labeling!
Because of limited quantities of yardage, we were not able to make full size runs in all fabrics. We focused on ‘popular’ waist sizes, a few 30, 32, 34 and 36.
To avoid random shrinkage issues, we decided to get all rolls sanforized before cut/sew, in order to keep the fit consistent across all fabrics. However, because of the different weights, the draping (= the way the fabric hangs) varies, and therefore the silhouettes.
As always, “Le Révolutionnaire” are no skinny pants. They are similar in silhouette to our MF® Chinos.
Designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®. Limited edition.
SPECS:
PATTERN: Original MF® pattern, inspired by several work trousers, with a 1930’s~1950’s French work-wear influence.
FABRICS:
All fabrics are selvedge, tonal color ID.
* F01: 100% cotton Bedford Cord, Slate Blue color.
* F02: 100% cotton heavy moleskine, brushed back, “Bleu de Chauffe” color (typical dark navy French work-wear color). They are several batches from the F02 lot, varying slightly in weight and shades. We count them as one same fabric.
* F03: 100% cotton Bedford Cord, light blue-grey color.
* F04: 100% cotton Bedford Cord, Royal blue. Brushed back.
* F07: 100% cotton Bedford Cord, Slate Grey color.
DETAILS:
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS French metal slide buckle.
* Selvedge leg side seams.
* NOS stripe cotton twill pocket bags.
* NOS 3×1 indigo denim waistband and button fly facing.
* 1920’s NOS bone buttons fly closure.
* 1930’s painted metal ‘X’ buttos, French NOS.
* Open bottom leg, overlocked, for your cuffing preferences (36 inches length, uncuffed)
* Two back welt pockets, the left one secured by a French original NOS painted metal ‘X’ button with debossed “*Solide*Elégant*” marking.
* Original 1940’s cotton woven “Le Révolutionnaire” label.
* Original paper labels and flashers form the original Dye House/Factory.
* 100% cotton tonal thread construction.
WASH/SIZING:
All fabrics have been pre-shrunk (Sanforized) before cut/sew, so there should be minimal shrinkage with subsequent wash/dry. Inside-out wash to avoid ‘marbling’. OK to machine dry. Low maintenance, as these fabrics were meant to withstand repeat soiling/wash/wear.
Some of the Bedford cord fabrics will tend to stretch back and forth with wash/dry/wear.
I wear a waist 32, for an ‘anti-fit’ look, which also allows me to break dance around the office, when the boss is not around.
  
Available sizes Waist 30, 32, 34, 36
Please call 323-653-2014 or Email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. Merci for ze support 😉
Introducing the fourth and final installement of MFSC Apache collection: La Chemise Hirondelle
Inspired by early European shirting, here is a fine lightweight moleskine pull-over shirt for Fall, which wraps up our French escapade this season.
The name hirondelle (swallow) is a reference to a collar shape typical of 1930’s french shirting. Longer and pointier than its American ‘wing tip’ collar counterpart.
It also refers to the bird often seen tattooed on the French Apaches skins. The hirondelle symbolized freedom and escape.
SPECS:
PATTERN: All original MFSC pattern and fit. Pull-over style.
FABRICS: Three options
a) BLACK moleskine: Lightweight 100% cotton moleskine, 5 oz., the French choice of workwear and outdoor washable fabric since the 1800′s. Moleskine is a tightly woven twill, with a napped surface. The close weave makes this fabric almost windproof, warm, insulating and very durable. It performs much better than denim does, but is very expensive to mill. Our 100% cotton moleskine is milled in Japan, to the specs of a 1900s swatch from our archives.
b) CREAM moleskine
c) INDIGO métisse cotton twill: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light… Milled in Japan in limited batch.
This option is the same fabric the veste ouvrier is made of, so it will fade to this with wear.
DETAIL:
* Back and cuffs shearing
* Placket tab to secure to trousers waist button.
* Rare vintage 1920’s New Old Stock glass buttons from France.
* Skinny chin strap
* Longer back tail
* Scarf retaining collar loops
* Indigo popeline collar-stay piecing (or anything small you might want to conceal)
* Two original flap chest pockets
* High stitch count construction, tonal all cotton thread. French seams
* French style side gussets
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF®.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops of the Fall 2011 Collection.
Please recycle those boxes, they can be used for home storage of small items.
WASHING: All three options come RAW/unwashed.
Hand wash with care (or very gentle wash cycle), cold water, dryer OK.
Use no soap/detergent with the indigo métisse, and hand wash only when really needed, to maximize the beauty of natural fading.
SIZING & SHRINKAGE:
LIMITED EDITION. Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes 37 (Small), 39 (Medium), 41 (Large), 43 (XLarge), 45(XXLarge)
Chemise Hirondelle MOLESKINE (black or cream): Retail $389.95
Chemise Hirondelle INDIGO METISSE: Retail $409.95
NOTE: The mixed photos of the ‘indigo métisse hirondelle’ are of my personal shirt, worn and washed several times over the course of one year or so. Production comes RAW and unwashed.
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support.
Les Apaches, Fall 2011 MFSC Collection, Part 3: Le PALETOT Apache
The term paletot is French old school slang to describe a coat or jacket. There are stories of wise guys stitching razor blades to the back of their paletot lapels: pretty dettering for someone wanting to grab you by the collar after a game of biribi gone wrong… (cf. “tomber sur le pal’tot“)
Our MFSC paletot is inspired by early French garb, work coats, outdoor jackets…
Two colors of moleskine “Peau de Diable” options, and one in indigo métisse twill.
SPECS:
PATTERN: All original MFSC pattern and fit.
FABRIC: Three options
a) BLACK moleskine: Heavy 100% cotton moleskine, the French choice of workwear and outdoor washable fabric since the 1800’s. Moleskine is a tightly woven twill, with a napped surface. The close weave makes this fabric almost windproof, warm, insulating and very durable. It performs much better than denim does, but is very expensive to mill. Our 100% cotton moleskine is milled in Japan, to the specs of a 1900s swatch from our archives.
b) CREAM moleskine
c) INDIGO métisse cotton twill: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light… Milled in Japan in limited batch.
This option is the same fabric the veste ouvrier is made of, so it will fade to this with wear.
This option is also EXCLUSIVE to Mister Freedom® Los Angeles location and not available in Japan.
LINING: Full body lining with 100% cotton stripe MFSC ticking. Arms lining with lightweight all cotton MFSC stripe ticking.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s.)
DETAILS:
* Leather dart pocket corners
* Three front flap pockets, with NOS Bedford cord pocket bags.
* Hidden chest pocket
* Cinch back strap, with french NOS sharp prong metal buckle.
* Throat latch
* Slanted button holes
* All cotton thread tonal stitching, french seams, no overlock/open seams inside and out.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF®.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops of the Fall 2011 Collection.
Please recycle those boxes, they can be used for home storage of small items.
WASHING: All three options come RAW/unwashed.
Hand wash with care (or very gentle wash cycle), cold water, no dryer. Wash the black moleskine option inside/out to avoid marbeling.
Use no soap/detergent with the indigo métisse, and hand wash only when really needed, to maximize the beauty of natural fading.
SIZING & SHRINKAGE:
LIMITED EDITION. Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
The Indigo Métisse option is EXCLUSIVE to Mister Freedom® Los Angeles location and not available in Japan.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes S (92), M (97), L (102), XL (107), XXL (112)
Retail $749.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
Thank you for your support.
It’s been an avalanche of goodies lately. Our second installment of Fall 2011 Apaches Collection just arrived from Japan… Following the arrival of our Gilet Métisse, here are some britches to go with it. The Pantalon Peau de Diable, our first cotton moleskine trousers.
The pattern is very similar to our Spring 2011 Pantalon Ouvrier, inspired by late 1800’s/early 1900’s French military bourgerons pants, early work trousers and fine tailored European britches. The silhouette is reminiscent of turn of the Century imagery, slimmer type “pantaloon” fit, narrower legs and slightly higher rise.
The french term Peau de Diable (Devil’s Skin) is a reference to an old label found on a vintage moleskine garment, manufactured in the 1920’s in Villefranche, France. Doesn’t get any better than that!
SPECS:
PATTERN: All original MFSC pattern and fit.
FABRIC: Heavy 100% cotton moleskine, the French choice of workwear and outdoor washable fabric since the 1800’s. Moleskine is a tightly woven twill, with a napped surface. The close weave makes this fabric almost windproof, warm, insulating and very durable. It performs much better than denim does, but is very expensive to mill. It is still used in France for specific workwear garments, but is now almost only available in cotton/polyester (I said the P word…)
Our 100% cotton moleskine is milled in Japan, to the specs of a 1900s swatch from our archives.
COLOUR: Two options, BLACK and CREAM
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900′s to 1940′s). “MFSC déposé” engraved buttons combination.
SUSPENDERS: The trousers come with matching fabric removable suspenders, inspired by overalls straps. (Suspenders are not pictured)
HARDWARE: NOS original French sharp prong buckle back.
POCKETING: Two front slash pockets, one watch pocket, two back slash pockets secured by button ‘dart flap’.
Pocket lining is sturdy indigo stripe selvedge ticking, same fabric we used for our Pantalon Ouvrier Indigo Rayure
BACK GUSSET: Contrast indigo stripe selvedge ticking.
CONSTRUCTION: 100 % cotton tonal thread, high count stitching. No overlock/open seams.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
Please recycle those boxes, they can be used for home storage of small items.
WASHING: Our trousers come RAW/unwashed, and will shrink lightly with washing/drying.
For the BLACK version, it is important to wash this garment INSIDE OUT, gentle cycle, to avoid unnatural marbling effect. We recommend an initial cold pre-soak and hang dry.
SIZING & SHRINKAGE: The trousers are labeled and marked in French.
We measured the trousers with the back gusset fully open. A fully close gusset (with maximun back strap cinching) reduces the waist by about 1 and half inch all around. (I am usually between a w31~32, but i am wearing a W30 in those)
Sizing Chart Coming soon.
LIMITED EDITION. Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Retail $599.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. Thank you for your renewed support 😉
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