 CL chopped Swabbies Cut-Offs. 
Mister Freedom® SWABBIES CUT-OFFS, 100% cotton navy blue HBT.
SS2021 mfsc “FROGSVILLE”.
Made in Japan.
The Mister Freedom® SWABBIES were initially released sometime in 2020 as full-legged bell-bottom denim trousers.
The inspiration had come from a rare pair of 1940’s-50’s private-purchase naval dungarees from the “Portlite Uniform” maker. If these conformed to the general silhouette and specs of traditional US Navy-issued denim dungarees, they featured really fancy tailoring and intricate pattern work for a pair of work trousers. The apparently-inconspicuous two front pockets are actually a very clever combination of two types of pocket patterns, slash and patch, a construction tour-de-force on a wrap leg that only makes sense when studying the inside of the pants. Those original MF® SWABBIES featured authentic 1940’s-style navy bells and a traditional high waist.
The SWABBIES CUT-OFFS are a cropped version of the same work pants pattern, bye-bye bells. A common practice in tropical Theater of Operations in the old days, salty Navy personnel would chop-off their faded dungarees and turn them into swim shorts or off-duty bermudas. Another common practice was to undo the top button, and wear the shorts with the waistband rolled-down, as was often the case with UDT Scuba Trunks.
We hemmed the inseam at about 6 inches, for a mid-thigh length. Cropping higher is a few DIY snips away for those inclined. Note that when left open (un-hemmed), the edge will fray and the fabric will roll, so, easy on the scissors!
We are releasing the Swabbies Cut-Offs in a crisp 100% cotton navy blue HBT, matching fabric to the Frogman Jacket.
The mfsc SWABBIES CUT-OFFS are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Sturdy and crisp 100% cotton HBT (herringbone twill), vintage mil-specs, navy blue color, sulfur-dyed. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern inspired by US Navy 1940’s-50’s private-purchase denim bell bottom trousers aka dungarees.
* Hemmed at mid-thigh, can be cropped to one’s preferred length.
* Wrap leg (no outseam.)
* Black 1940s-style laurel leaf starburst metal donut waist & fly buttons.
* Front pockets combining complex patch-type and slash-type pattern due to the challenge of the wrap leg. No open seams.
* Rear patch pockets cut using horizontal warp.
* Flat lock chainstitch construction.
* Black tonal all-cotton stitching.
* Bar-tacked stress points.
* Woven rayon mfsc “FROGSVILLE” label on inside waistband.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING:
The SWABBIES CUT-OFFS come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
I had opted for a W31 in the Denim Swabbies, for a fitted top block, comfortable thighs and period bell-bottoms. I went with a W30 in the HBT Cut-Offs version.
The waist feels a bit tight after the cold soak, but stretches slightly with a bit of wear, although not as much as the denim model. Note that these are high-waisted shorts, and one might consider the old practice of undoing the top button and wearing the shorts with the waistband rolled-down to tone down the high rise.
CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning the shorts inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
DISCLAIMER: This sulfur-dyed HBT fabric has an intentional low colorfastness and will ‘age’ and look ‘worn-in’ rapidly with normal wear/machine wash routine.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021
Mister Freedom® RAIDERS Fatigues, 2×1 “Army” denim & Two-Tone OD HBT.
SS2021 mfsc FROGSVILLE collection.
Made in Japan.
Those interested in our choice of moniker for those trousers, and its relevance to our FROGSVILLE SS2021 venture, can refer to Marine Raiders, OSS Maritime Units, early-days US combat swimmers aka frogmen, US Navy SEALs history…
“First SEALs” was an interesting read for me last year, where I learned that Italian Decima Mas frogmen (Axis Forces) had been quite involved in shaping-up their Allied Forces nemesis in the Mediterranean theater during WW2.
Our “RAIDERS” Fatigues are inspired by a pair of vintage M1941 utility trousers from our archives, a model issued to USMC personnel between 1942 and 1945 (source) and referred to as second pattern. Again, we’ll pass on all design credits to Uncle Sam’s Quartermaster Corps, as our creative input was merely to adjust the fit to our liking from the original US Gov-issued fatigues.
All construction details and overall pattern were lifted from the original, granted period variations exist depending on contractors. The M1941 trousers are notorious for their extremely generous leg, shooting straight down from the (very wide) thigh. This “Navy Cut” leg was often tucked-in canvas gaiters.
We kept the idea of the wide cut – the RAIDERS are our widest pant silhouette to date – but tapered the lower leg slightly. There is still plenty of fabric!
The specific M1941 pattern features self-fabric pocket bags and chinos-style waistband construction.
As often, we played around with fabric options, and our RAIDERS come in two distinct versions:
The first release is one of those “didn’t exist but could have” MF® approaches, and features a 10 Oz. blue denim developed by our friends at Buzz Rickson’s as vintage Mil-Specs “Army” denim. It is a lightweight 2×1 slubby indigo denim twill with a grayish weft, white/blue line selvedge ID. This fabric is reminiscent of early US Army denim dungarees and WW2 barracks bags.
For the second option, we loved the look of our original beat-up USMC trousers a lot and couldn’t help going for a similar vibe, using a sturdy and crisp OD HBT (Olive Drab Herringbone Twill) ready for hard wear.
As a nod to wartime production crunch – surviving vintage specimen featuring contrasting panels from inconsistant dye lots are occasionally found – we played around with two different HBT colors on our RAIDERS. We didn’t want to go full harlequin, so all leg panels were kept as one shade of olive HBT, limiting the khaki HBT accents to the belt loops and lining parts. The contrast is subtle and the colors compliment each others, yet the reference is clear.
The MF® Raiders Fatigues are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN: Inspired by a vintage pair USMC M1941 Utility Trousers.
FABRIC OPTIONS:
a) 100% Cotton two-tone Olive Drab/Khaki HBT, crisp & dry hand, milled in Japan.
b) “Army” 2×1 selvedge indigo denim twill, 10 Oz., white with blue line selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Period wide leg silhouette.
* Black 13-star metal tack buttons.
* Front slash scoop pockets.
* Rear patch pockets, rounded bottom.
* Self fabric pocket bags.
* Chinos-style waistband construction.
* 100% cotton stitching.
* Overlocked fly flap.
* Original mfsc “Frogsville” woven rayon label.
* Denim model: Selvedge waistband facing. Olive green all cotton stitching.
* OD HBT model: Two-tone contrast khaki/olive accents on belt loops/fly flap/waistband facing. Contrast khaki all cotton stitching.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
Both models of the MF® RAIDERS Fatigues come unwashed and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this usual protocol before wear:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
- Washing machine spin dry.
- Line dry. (No heat dryer)
I opted for a W30 in both models (5.7’’ / approx. 150 lbs), for a fitted top block and wide leg silhouette.
CARE:
Launder when needed. Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Turn trousers inside out to avoid marbling of the fabric.
Wash denim model separately from light-colored garments.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021
Mister Freedom® “FROGMAN” Jacket, 100% cotton navy blue HBT.
SS2021 mfsc “FROGSVILLE”.
Made in Japan.
The pattern of our “FROGMAN” was inspired by a garment the US Army adopted in 1940, the short-lived P41 blue denim utility jacket. The iconic dungaree jacket/trousers utility set was quickly replaced by an updated pattern issued a more versatile olive drab HBT (herringbone twill), which could be worn both for chores and in the field. Surviving blue denim 1940-1941 specimen are quite sought-after today. Many went to outfit POWs.
I remember sporting an old authentic P41 denim jacket in the mid 2000’s, with P W stenciled on the arms, not sure I would today. PW markings have since become quite a “fashion decoration” for some Heritage style brands.
The name “FROGMAN” is a reference to the 1951 film “The Frogmen“, depicting exploits of Underwater Demolition Teams (UDT) during WW2 in the Pacific. Throughout the movie, some of the elite combat divers on board can be spotted sporting USMC-stenciled P41 jackets (OD HBT models), including the new CO (Richard Widmark).
This film has sometimes been mentioned as a source of career inspiration by some real-life US Navy SEALs.
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US Army “camouflaged” mortar crew, wearing blue denim utilities, circa 1940.
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The original P41 US Army denim jacket we used for inspiration.
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Richard Widmark, “The Frogmen” ©1951 20th Century Fox Film Corp, courtesy Everett Collection.
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Papy sporting an original WW2 POW dungaree P41 jacket, while enjoy a ½ decaf – ½ Ethiopian blend cappuccino, with 2% fat organic oat milk, circa 2006.
Not much brain activity was required from the MF® Design Dept on this op, full credits going to Uncle Sam’s Quartermaster Corps. Starting with a vintage P41 denim jacket from our archives, we just added two chest pockets (one outside and one concealed for your smartphone), and adjusted the fit to our liking. This is a no-nonsense, streamlined, utilitarian chore jacket pattern.
In regards to our choice of fabric, one may remember the Saigon Cowboy 2015 Utility Jacket, for which our design approach had been to use 2×1 denim with a 1940’s US Army jacket pattern (PDQ 45) initially-issued in olive drab HBT.
For the FROGMAN jacket, we flipped things around again, we beaucoup dinky dau like that, and went with HBT for a pattern initially-issued in denim. Confused yet?
Instead of the classic OD color associated with WW2 USMC or US Army fatigues, we opted for a non-military navy blue HBT, following our “didn’t exist but could have” usual approach.
This dry 100% cotton HBT fabric is sulfur-dyed, a process quite in-vogue these days as it boasts low colorfastness resulting in quickly-fading garments. With a bit of normal wear and routine washes, the FROGMAN Jacket should get you that desirable ol’ salt look, without ever leaving port! Please note that the fast-fading quality of this HBT does not alter the fabric sturdiness, as “vintage” factory distressing (chemical or abrasion) does.
The keen eye will also notice we played with the HBT fabric grain again (as we did on the Swabbies, one of my favorite pair of dungarees!), featuring horizontal warp on all the patch pockets, contrasting with the traditional vertical warp of the body. This subtle detail, in time, should lead to interesting puckering and patina contrasts.
The MF® FROGMAN jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1940’s US Army denim dungaree jackets.
FABRIC: Sturdy and crispy 100% cotton HBT (herringbone twill), vintage mil-specs, navy blue color, sulfur-dyed. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Vintage military utilitarian vibe.
* Two hip patch pockets with buttoned flaps.
* Single outside chest patch pocket, inside smart phone chest pocket.
* Curved pocket flaps with matching pocket fold.
* M-1941 style black-painted 13-star tack buttons.
* 100% cotton thread high-count stitching, black color.
* Original mfsc “FROGSVILLE” woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The FROGMAN Jacket in navy blue HBT comes unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this usual protocol before wear:
- Turn garment inside-out. Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
- Washing machine spin dry.
- Line dry. (No heat dryer)
The relative stiffness of the fabric following this process is normal and expected, and is due to the starch added during milling stage. This temporary “crispiness” of the 100% cotton HBT will subside rapidly with normal wear.
I opted for a 36 (Small) for a still comfortable fit (5.7’’ / approx. 150 lbs). The 38 (Medium) felt too roomy for the silhouette I was going for. You may want to consider sizing down with the FROGMAN Jacket
See both 36 and 38 fit photos and refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Compare them with an unlined jacket of similar style you own and that fits you well to dial-in the size that will work best for you, according to your silhouette preference and layering habits.
CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning the jacket inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
DISCLAIMER: This sulfur-dyed HBT fabric has an intentional low colorfastness and will ‘age’ and look ‘worn-in’ rapidly with normal wear/machine wash routine.
Available RAW/unwashed.
Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support, be safe, stay sane, stay cool.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021
LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, model A: 7.7 Oz. indigo linen-cotton HBT.
LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, model B: 10 Oz. “Snow” denim.
Mister Freedom® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, indigo linen-cotton HBT & 10 Oz. “Snow” denim edition.
mfsc SS2020 “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”, SURPLUS catalog.
Made in Japan.
We took a stroll down memory lane and rigged-up a small capsule collection for Spring 2020, with references harking back to our earliest Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co fictional scenario, the 2006 “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor”. This concise “Waterfront Surplus” nautical grouping is inspired by 1930’s US Navy and French Marine Nationale utility uniforms, local-made and custom-tailored dungarees, with the usual liberties we like to take with History. This straight-forward and classic set is made of the DOCKYARD Jacket, LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, and SWABBIES Dungarees.
Following the recent release of the DOCKYARD Jacket in indigo linen-cotton HBT and “snow” denim, here is Volume Two, the LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, available in the same two fabric options.
The overall design of this pull-over “jumper” shirt is lifted from a rare 1940s vintage naval denim work shirt produced by the “Gus Kroesen Uniform” label. Established in 1907, and with branches in Seattle, San Francisco and Honolulu, the Gus Kroesen stores have supplied generations of men of the sea with outstanding custom uniforms.
According to a 1924 article of the San Pedro News Pilot, “Gus Kroesen, naval and civilian tailor and haberdasher, with a very attractive and well-stocked store at 335 Front street, San Pedro, served for fourteen years as a ship’s tailor in the U.S. Navy.” (quote credit California Digital Newspaper Collection, Center for Bibliographic Studies and Research, University of California, Riverside.)
Today, surviving vintage specimen of Gus Kroesen naval dungarees are quite rare and sought-after by collectors.
The Mister Freedom® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt features most of the design specifics of the vintage original, the jumper style pattern (aka pop-over), half zipper front closure placket, and three utilitarian patch pockets.
One of the striking details of the Gus Kroesen shirt was the unusual use of the fabric grain in construction. Classic shirt bodies tend to be cut using straight grain (displaying the warp threads vertically), but our vintage jumper featured vertical cross grain. I have seen a few of these private-purchase naval dungaree jumpers from various makers, and this is typical of that style. The purpose was to maximize yield and minimize fabric waste, using the selvedge in the bottom hem, cuff hems, and pocket fold. As a side effect, the combination of grain directions will result in interesting seam puckering, peculiar garment drape, and potential attractive “striped” patina over time.
If our indigo HBT fabric is non-selvedge, both LONGSHOREMAN options are cut using the same grain cutting method, promising some interesting fading evolution in both fabrics.
To add a little twist à la MF®, we decided to add a classic period detail in the form of a narrow chin strap, and a practical concealed chest pocket.
The LONGSHOREMAN Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Model A: 7.7 Oz. dark indigo-dyed Herringbone Twill (HBT) fabric, blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton. Milled in Japan.
Model B: 10 Oz. dark indigo blue 2×1 denim, “snowy” neppy texture, white with yellow line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Inspired by 1930s-40s custom-made private purchase naval dungarees and shipyard crews work clothing.
* Pull-over style “jumper” pattern.
* Half zipper closure placket, 30s/40s-style bell-shaped pull “silver” Talon zipper, 100% cotton tape. (use caution when fastening, as these vintage-style zippers are more delicate than modern versions with polyester tape. Lubricate the metal teeth with natural beeswax occasionally.)
* Fabric cut using vertical cross grain for body and sleeves, displaying the warp horizontally.
* Selvedge displayed in bottom hem, cuff hems, and pocket fold (denim version only.)
* Three front utilitarian patch pockets.
* Concealed chest pocket, stripe ticking fabric.
* Clean chainstitch construction, no open seams.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc woven rayon “SURPLUS” label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The following applies to both fabric options. The MF® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt comes raw/unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Hang until fully dry.
Due to the 100% cotton stitching and specific grain cutting method, attractive puckering will show at the seams after the soak, giving the garment more of a vintage feel. The denim version will be stiffer after the initial soak due to the re-activated starch, but the stiffness is temporary and will subside rapidly with wear.
I opted for a comfortable 38 (MEDIUM) in both fabric options, both with a similar fit but different drape. The silhouette is quite slim yet comfortable enough not to make pulling the shirt on/off an excruciating task. According to body types, the cut will accommodate layering with a skivvy or classic Nixon chambray.
We recommend going with your usual mfsc shirt size.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
CHART
Available RAW/unwashed.
CARE:
Launder when needed. For both options, we recommend turning the LONGSHOREMAN Shirt inside out, fully zipped-up, to avoid marbling of the fabric.
Machine wash on gentle cycle, cold water, minimum eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available Raw/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
34 X-small (indigo HBT only)
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
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