Mister Freedom® CONDUCTOR Jacket, “cachou” Duck Canvas, Sportsman Catalog mfsc Fall 2018, Made in USA.

MF® CONDUCTOR Jacket, “cachou” Duck Canvas.
Sportsman Catalog, Fall 2018
Made in USA.

The MF® CONDUCTOR pattern, a fancy denim jacket style for the caboose-inclined and vintage iron horse connoisseur, was originally added to our ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog in the Spring of 2017.

During the early days of R&D, our aim was a work jacket design standing out from other traditional chore coats, engineer jacket, railroad jackets, farmer jackets of the same family. We grabbed a few pointers from our 1920’s-inspired Loco Jacket (“Viva La Revolución”, Spring 2013), and built the CONDUCTOR from scratch, with all original pocket designs and details. Blending elegant tailoring touches with vintage workwear functional ruggedness, we cooked-up a garment with both rugged trainman and gentleman passenger in mind. Our Conductor Jacket makes it easy to switch from shoveling coal to sipping a libation at the plush red velvet wagon-bar, with the usual MF® grain of salt.

The original release of the Conductor was in a favorite fabric of ours, the “Malibu Sea” denim. It was followed by a Spring 2018 version cut from a vintage New Old Stock hickory stripe twill.

For this third iteration, we developed a brown cotton duck canvas inspired by vintage specimens of  French 1930’s – 1950’s outdoor and military garments. Similar yet distinct from early US duck canvases typical of classic American hunting gear (and definitely different from the average modern duck canvas), our fabric features a crispy selvedge canvas dyed in the classic French “cachou” color.

Cachou” is a vegetable extract that the French are found of, particularly in the form of licorice candies. In Southern France, locals often reach an emotional climax when managing to share one of these little black mints with a tourist keen on fully embracing the culture. The immediate gagging grimace on the first-timer is a prized reward for the Frenchman. Cachou mints are an acquired taste.
For our local patrons, free cachou tasting at the MF® HQ, 11-6 daily.

Rich in tanins and pigments, the cachou extract has been traditionally used for dyeing ship sails and other textiles since the 1830’s. As a pigment, it produces a range of rich and warm reddish brown hue, a particular color familiar to the collector of French vintage military accoutrements, old forest ranger workwear, traditional hunting gear, etc…

With the invaluable help of our friends and textile experts at Toyo Enterprises, we managed to replicate this cachou color, along with its beautiful fading quality. The base fabric is a dry hand tightly-woven 100% cotton selvedge canvas, milled and dyed in Japan.

We paired our duck conductor with a classic corduroy collar, same corduroy grade used as pocket warmer on vintage USN peacoats. For a handsome concealed contrast, we selected an indigo/white NOS woven check twill for pocket facing, visible on the inside chest pocket and as pocket lining.

The Conductor Jacket is designed by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Body: Sturdy and crispy 100% cotton duck canvas, selvedge, brown ‘cachou’ color, milled and dyed in Japan.
Collar Facing: Amber brown wide whale cotton corduroy.
Pocket Facing: NOS indigo/white woven check twill

DETAILS:
* An all original mfsc pattern inspired by early American workwear and European tailoring, vintage 1920’s-30’s chore coats and denim engineer jackets.
* Four original MF® pocket-shape designs.
* Elegant front panel cut-away design.
* Double duty chest pocketing, with watch compartment on left side.
* Pockets lined/half-lined with NOS indigo/white woven check twill.
* Inside iPhone chest pocket.
* Original Mister Freedom® oxidized brass shank buttons.
* Collar chin strap secured with oxidized black donut button.
* Split back panel, displaying selvedge ID.
* Selvedge front panel facing, cuffs and watch pocket opening slit.
* Side cinch straps, French NOS metal buckles.
* Copper riveted cuff openings.
* Contrasting green chainstitch, bar-tacks and button holes.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Conductor Jacket comes UN-WASHED (=raw) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend our usual method for raw cotton garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
Following this initial routine, the garment will stiffen when dry, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and the ‘crispiness’ will subside with normal wear.

I opted for a size 38 (Medium), for a relaxed fit. I could fit a size 36 but preferred having the option to layer in colder weather.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash garment inside out to avoid marbling, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Due to the specific nature of the garment dye, the cachou canvas will gradually fade overtime with normal wear and repeat washing. For a natural patina, do not try to overwash but enjoy instead wearing your garment.

Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane msfc FW2018 collection preview

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc FW2018 collection PREVIEW.

Dear Friends,

There it is.
Our Fall Winter 2018 collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Each item’s story, design background, fabric specs and ethical manufacturing journey will be documented on this blog as released.
All garments manufactured either in USA (MF® “Sportsman” mfsc catalog) or Japan (MF® “Surplus” mfsc catalog).
Drop dates will start sometime during August 2018.
The entire collection will be available from the MF® HQ (our Los Angeles brick & mortar store), on www.misterfreedom.com, and some select pieces from fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support.

✌???⚽?
Christophe Loiron

Mister Freedom®
©2018

Mister Freedom® CONDUCTOR Jacket, NOS hickory stripe twill, Sportsman Catalog Spring 2018, Made in USA.

 

The Musicaladers (with Bing Crosby), 1920’s. Lareida’s dancehall, Spokane Valley, WA. (Photo courtesy The Spokesman)

Evolution of the NOS Hickory stripe twill: Unworn/unwashed MF® Conductor Jacket (2018) and worn/washed Sportsman Shirt (2013)

MF® CONDUCTOR Jacket, vintage NOS selvedge hickory stripe twill.
Sportsman Catalog, Spring 2018
Made in USA.

The MF® CONDUCTOR pattern, a fancy denim jacket style for the caboose-inclined and vintage iron horse connoisseur, was originally added to our ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog during the Spring of 2017.

During R&D, we were aiming at a work jacket design standing out from other traditional chore coats, engineer jacket, railroad jackets, farmer jackets of the same family. We grabbed a few pointers from our 1920’s-inspired Loco Jacket (“Viva La Revolución”, Spring 2013), and built the CONDUCTOR from scratch, with all original pocket designs and details. Blending elegant tailoring touches with vintage workwear functional ruggedness, we cooked-up a garment with both rugged trainman and gentleman passenger in mind. Our Conductor Jacket makes it easy to switch from shoveling coal to sipping a libation at the plush red velvet wagon-bar, with the usual MF® grain of salt.

The first release of the Conductor was in a favorite fabric of ours, the “Malibu Sea” denim.

For Spring 2018, the MF® Conductor Jacket gets cut from another mfsc favorite, a vintage New Old Stock hickory stripe lightweight twill that came out of an old warehouse in Southern California. We were lucky to score a few rolls of that goodness, and thought the hickory stripes were a perfect match for our old-school railroad worker-inspired jacket. The exact same fabric was featured on the Mister Freedom® “Sportsman Shirt” from 2013, so we are providing a few evo photos for reference.

Whether worn as a top garment or as a layer under another ¾ length coat, with a classic bowtie à-la Bing Crosby’s Musicaladers, with a simple T-shirt or chambray workshirt à-la Choo-Choo Charlie, the MF® Conductor Jacket is pretty versatile. The numerous pockets make it quite a practical garment when running around town or traveling.

The Conductor Jacket is designed by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Vintage 100% cotton New Old Stock lightweight twill, hickory stripe pattern, origin USA.

DETAILS:
* An all original mfsc pattern inspired by early American workwear and European tailoring, vintage 1920’s-30’s chore coats and denim engineer jackets.
* Four original MF® pocket-shape designs.
* Elegant front panel cut-away.
* Watch compartment on left chest pocket.
* Pockets lined/half-lined with NOS 2×1 indigo denim.
* Inside iPhone chest pocket
* Black oxidized donut wreath buttons.
* Collar chin strap with contrast copper donut button.
* Split back panel, displaying selvedge ID.
* Selvedge front panel facing, cuffs and watch pocket opening slit.
* Side cinch straps, French NOS metal buckles.
* Contrasting green chainstitch, bar-tacks and button holes.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Conductor Jacket comes UN-WASHED (=raw) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments:

* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
The garment will stiffen when dry following this initial routine, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and the ‘crispiness’ will subside with normal wear.

I opted for a size 38 (Medium), for a relaxed fit. I could fit a size 36 but preferred having the option to layer in colder weather.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Some light indigo blue transfer to the white yarns might occur. This is normal and will subside over time and subsequent wash cycles.

Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Retail $ 329.95
Available from our Los Angeles ol’ pile o’ rags, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

EVO: Conductor Jacket (Malibu denim), SS2017 made in USA.

Conductor Jacket, “Malibu” denim.
Sportsman Catalog, Spring 2017
Made in USA.

Initial cold soak, intermittent wear for about 8 months, one recent machine wash (normal cycle, cold water).

Other MF® garments featuring our original “Malibu” selvedge denim (milled in Japan) are the Cowboy Jacket, the Malibu Speedways, and the Conductor Slacks.

The Conductor Jacket is available UNWASHED/raw from our Los Angeles HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered here.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

Mister Freedom® “Conductor Slacks”, Malibu denim, Sportsman Catalog Spring 2017, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® “Conductor Slacks”, selvedge ‘Malibu denim’.
Sportsman Catalog, Spring 2017
Made in USA.

Following the addition of a new pattern to our ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog this Spring, the fancy Choo-Choo-Charlie-denim-jacket-for-the-caboose-inclined-and-vintage-iron-horse-connoisseur aka the Conductor jacket, we felt compelled to match it with a muy loco version of our Sportsman Slacks.

If we don’t recommend wearing both as a set for a job interview, our Conductor jacket and slacks are pretty versatile pieces. Both patterns blend workwear and early tailor-made Gentleman’s garb, in a light indigo denim treatment we refer to as “Malibu Denim”. Milled in Japan and introduced a few years ago, this particular denim is an old MF® favorite. Technically, it is quite tricky for a dye-house to control a lighter shade of indigo (darker shades are easier to keep consistent, as you can always do another dip…), so we are very happy that this new 2017 batch is as beautiful and unique as its 2015 and 2016 predecessors.

With normal wear, this ‘Malibu denim’ will fade to an attractive range of exotic and dreamy lagoon blues. Its specific indigo hue makes it quite complimenting to other darker denim twills. Pair it with the MF® Cowboy Jacket in dark loomstate NOS Cone denim or Wheat denim, with the twill color palette of our Continental sportcoats etc…

The Conductor Slacks garment pattern is inspired by vintage Gentlemen trousers, blending Old and New World, combining fancy tailoring and utilitarian workwear. Originally introduced during our !Viva La Revolucion! days (2013), the pattern was adapted in 2015 to be added to our Sportsman Catalog as a Gun Powder linen-cotton HBT option. The Vaquero Jeans had become the Sportsman Slacks, a reincarnation a tinge overshadowed by tragic events at the time…
Here they are again for Spring 2017, released as the Conductor Slacks.

The Conductor Slacks are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

NOTE: Some of the photos feature an hemmed pair of Conductor Slacks (with a stitched 1½’’ plain trousers fold). Production comes with an open overlocked bottom with a generous inseam, for your cuffing preference.

PATTERN:
Revisited MF® Vaquero denim jeans style from our !Viva La Revolución! 2013 collection, aka the Sportsman Slacks.
An original pattern inspired by early European trousers and work dungarees.

FABRIC:
Original mfsc “Malibu Sea” denim, 13 Oz. indigo-dyed denim twill, solid white selvedge. Milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Vintage European trousers-type construction, no back yoke.
* “Cowboy” front pocket opening.
* Oxidized black ‘donut’ wreath waist button.
* Unmarked utilitarian ‘donut’ metal fly buttons.
* Two rear welt pockets.
* Pocketing and lining from fancy NOS woven stripe 100% cotton plain weave fabric (ivory white with blue & grey stripes), milled in Europe.
* Rear reinforcement lining patching.
* Side cinch tabs, adjustable with NOS vintage French metal buckles.
* Selvedge leg side seam.
* Open inseam, overlocked bottom hem, for your cuffing preference (hemmed, double hemmed, rolled…)
* Turn-of-the-century style flared waistband (narrower in back).
* Slim belt loops (trousers style).
* All cotton thread navy blue stitching.
* Green bar-tack Sportsman accents and inside chainstitch.
* Original MF® “The Sportsman” woven rayon black label.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The Conductor Slacks comes UN-WASHED (=raw, loomstate) and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
* As an optional step, wear the garment briefly when still not fully dry, in order to slightly shape it to your body and set creases. Hang and let fully dry.
The denim garment will stiffen when dry due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns, a normal reaction that will rapidly subside with normal wear.

Fit: If the soaked Waist 32 felt more comfortable, I opted for a Waist 30 in the Conductor Slacks. The waist should give a bit to better accommodate my girly 31’’ waist. Whether going for the slimmer look of the W30 or the more generous silhouette of the W32 is a matter of preference. I personally decided to size down on these.
For hemming, i opted for a stitched 1½’’ plain trousers fold.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning the trousers inside out to avoid marbling on the indigo side.
Hand washing can be a good option if concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast color fades. Otherwise, machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Available Raw/unwashed
Sizes (W stands for Waist)
W 28 x L
W 29 x L
W 30 x L
W 31 x L
W 32 x L
W 33 x L
W 34 x L
W 36 x L
W 38 x L
Retail $329.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2017