Mister Freedom® MFSC “VAQUERO Blue Jeans”, made in USA.
‘Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2012
For the background story about this collection, read this first and proceed if I haven’t put you to sleep.
Early settlers of the old West adapted the Spanish word vaquero to buckaroo when referring to cowhands and horsemen.
Because of the ever presence of the European influence in Mexico in the 1800’s and 1900’s, we have opted for a pair of work pants pattern with details borrowed from tailor shops of the Old World. Our Vaquero Blue Jeans are constructed like early European trousers rather than like a five pocket type often associated with later cowboy pants. These features include side cinch straps, flared waistband, inside waist button flap, back welt pockets with reinforced facing, narrow width belt loops, no back yoke, open bottom hem…
The front pocket opening is a nod to Charro and Chinacos type trousers, with a flap somewhat similar to later western type pants.
The green color stitching hints to several work-wear brands that used green thread for bar tack or button holes (such as the Kansas brand Key Imperial Overalls, since 1908.)
We are using tonal stitching, giving the Vaquero its slacks appearance and a clean silhouette. The copper riveting on denim and selvedge side seams pull it back into work-wear type cowboy pants.
The fabric we chose is an original indigo dyed left hand twill denim developed by Sugar Cane Co in Japan, referred to as “Okinawa 301“. Not a cheap choice (being a very expensive process and therefore fabric) but well worth it for the textile connoisseurs. It blends cotton yarn with recycled sugar cane fibers (50/50) in a strong, slubby, hairy, coarse denim twill. After about 20 years (!) of R&D, Sugar Cane was able to perfect this magnificent denim twill that has won the hearts of hardcore denimheads because of the way it beautifully ages and fades. Now if that’s not a sales pitch…
Side note: This fabric is somewhat sentimental to me, as this was the denim I picked for the left leg of the “7161 Utility Trousers”, our first ever MFSC collaboration with Sugar Cane Co back in 2006.
MF® ol’ timers will remember these dungarees, aka ‘Frankenstein jeans’ (3 different denim/pair, sloppy stitching and a very weird original pattern)
48 raw pairs were sold in the USA (see photo below)…
The “Vaquero Blue jeans” are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Los Angeles as a collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An all original MFSC pattern, inspired by early European trousers, mixed with American cowboy pants.
FABRIC:
Raw 14 Oz. indigo dyed selvedge denim, left hand twill. 50% cotton blended with 50% recycled sugar cane fibers. White selvedge with green ID line. Milled in Japan.
Pocket bags: NOS all cotton stripe twill, USA.
Seat lining patch: white cotton sailcloth.
Note: TMI alert, for detail orientated folks, the inside button hole fly piece is made of NOS 12 Oz. selvedge Cone denim, same fabric as the Californian Lot.54
DETAILS:
* Trousers construction
* “Cowboy” front pocket opening
* Back welt pockets
* Side cinch straps, with NOS vintage French metal buckles
* Selvedge leg side seam
* Open bottom hem, for your cuffing discretion (hemmed, double hemmed, rolled…)
* Unmarked copper riveting
* Concealed accent with green thread button holes and inside chain stitch
* Flared waistband (narrower in back)
* Slim belt loops (trouser style)
* NOS stripe twill pocket bags and cotton sailcloth seat facing
* Early type ‘donut’ metal waist button, brown corozo wood fly buttons
* All cotton thread tonal stitching
PACKAGING: An original MF® denim bag, made in our studio, to sling around for your next trip to the local Farmer’s market, or Torreón.
SIZING/SHRINKAGE:
The “Okinawa 301” denim is RAW and unsanforized. Overall shrinkage from rinsing/washing should be about 5% to 8%, according to water temperature. This fiber denim will shrink with an original cold soak and line dry. It will expand a bit again with wear, then shrink again with subsequent rinsing. This normal evolution should settle after a while.
The Vaquero will shrink to TAGGED size.
We recommend an original cold soak (about 30mn), spin cycle and line dry. This will get you minimal shrinkage and retain ~100% of the indigo color. Some bleeding is expected with normal wear (from blue hands to blue whatever-is-tucked-in. Indigo bleeding will wash off.)
I am usually between a waist 30 and 32 with MFSC trousers/jeans, and I am wearing a 30 in the Vaquero Blue Jeans. Do not size up unless you really need the extra room. As always, boiling is not recommended (too much color loss), just get your size.
Remember that you will not get beautiful patina from extensive unneeded washing, but rather from repeat wear.
Note: The photos above are from a slightly worn pair, hemmed, showing minimal wear after an original cold soak. Production is UNWORN and raw.
Please refer to this sizing chart for approximate raw/cold soak measurements:
Available RAW/Unwashed.
(Tagged/will shrink to) Waist SIZES 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Inseam: Approx. 40 inches (open hem)
Retail $379.95
Call 323-653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Thank you for the support, Señoras y Caballeros.
Here is the final installement (5 of 5) of Mister Freedom® latest Collection entitled “American Sportswear”. Introducing the CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans, Lot.44
Same drill than with the Ranch Blouse, we have selected some New Old Stock selvedge denim from our archives to make the Californian Lot.44
Cut and sew has been a challenge, as previously mentioned, but we are happy with the results. One “five pocket” pattern in about 35 different denim… 28” to 33” width old shuttle loom made selvedge denim, collected throughout years of warehouses digging. Origin Japan and USA. Click on scan below for approximate colors and selvedge IDs
The pattern of the Californian Lot.44 is very similar to that of the Californian Lot.54, with a few design modifications:
* PATTERN: Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950′s era blue jeans.
* FABRICS: The assorted New Old Stock selvedge denim limited edition is only available at the MF® Beverly Blvd location, and at “Bazar” (1108c Abbot Kinney Blvd.,Venice, CA 90291, USA, phone 310-314-2101).
* Lot.44 vs. Lot.54 DETAILS: The Lot.44 has an added back cinch strap, longer inseam, yellow “M” pocket and side stitching, different fabric pocket bags.
* POCKETING: 100% cotton NOS stripe ticking denim. Some bag bags are made with indigo/white plaid twill. Random.
* FIT: Based on the general silhouette/image of the “BRMC” blue jeans of the Wild Ones (1953). Traditional mid-rise, “tubular” silhouette legs, fit seat.
These blue jeans are NOT skinnies, as we don’t dig the ‘men in tights’ or “girlfriend’s jeans” thingy.
* CONSTRUCTION: All made in U.S.A. Five pockets style. Selvedge legs and button hole fly flap. Riveted back pockets with ‘zigzag flush’ stitching. Original “M” back pocket stitch design, securing inside all cotton twill backing.
* STITCHING: All 100% cotton colour thread. We are using an original MF 12 types of gauge/colour combination thread for each pair of jeans. Main colours are Orange/Yellow, non colorfast.
* TRIMS: Original Mister Freedom casted combo metal fly buttons, steel back. Unmarked copper flat top rivetting.
* LABELING: Handmade original MF® debossed natural cowhide leather patch on right back pocket. Cheeze cloth size labeling stitched in rear part of waist band.
* PACKAGING: In the USA, the Californian Lot.44 comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
* SHRINKAGE: All fabrics are RAW and unwashed. Due to the assorted denim, shrinkage is all over the place. Please refer to chart below, where we shrink tested some of the jeans (cold soak for about 30mn, no agitation. Turned imside out and machine dryed for about 20mn, until 80% dried). Measurements are approximate.
Please don’t BOIL your jeans, as you will alter the color of the denim and ruin the leather patch.
The Californian Lot.44 comes UN-WASHED and “oversized” so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER shrinkage (more or less).
Example: A tagged W32 x L36 “Californian”, off the shelf, actually measures 33” x 38” before wash. Some denim will shrink to approx. 32” x 36” after rinse/dry.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit, so you can size up or down.
WASHING: To each his own, but we recommend the “quick cold rinse, hang dry and wear when damp” method. Subsequent washing when REALLY needed, minimal detergent and hang dry.
Garment designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition.
The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.44 is available RAW/unwashed.
Available tagged Sizes:
W30 × L34
W31 × L36
W32 × L36
W33 × L36
W34 × L36
W36 × L36
W38 × L36
(see “Shrinkage” section above for the low-down)
Retail $289.95
Available here.
Please call (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com for more info.
Thank you for your support.
The evolution of one pair our Made in USA “Californian” Blue Jeans, after about 5 months of regular wear and abuse…
Those jeans started being worn raw for a few days. Then a quick cold soak for 10 minutes, hung dry and worn still damp.
Four washing cycles during the five months period, cold water, very minimal soap, turned inside-out, no dryer.
All the original specs here. Some sizes are SOLD OUT.
The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.54 is available RAW/unwashed.
Tagged Sizes 28×32, 29x32, 30×32, 31×32, 32×34, 33x34, 34×34, 36×34, 38×34. (see “Sizing” in the specs link for the low-down)
Retail $249.95
Call (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
The MF® CALIFORNIAN, long awaited-for MISTER FREEDOM® first five-pocket style blue jeans are in the house! All made in USA from American un-sanforized Dead Stock (NOS) indigo blue 12 oz. denim…
SPECS:
* Pattern: Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950’s era blue jeans.
* Fabric: New Old Stock American made selvedge indigo denim. White/red stripped selvedge ID. Un-sanforized. Approx. 12oz. square yard weight. Guaranteed to age and beautify with repeat wear.
* Pocketing: 100% cotton sturdy Bedford cord type woven NOS fabric. Natural un-bleached white.
* Fit: Based on the general silhouette/image of the “BRMC” blue jeans of the Wild Ones (1953). Traditional mid-rise, “tubular” silhouette legs, fit seat.
“Now, listen, ya don’t go any one special place. That’s cornball style…Ya just go (SNAP)”
* Construction: All made in U.S.A. Five pockets style. Selvedge legs and button hole fly flap. Top back pockets covered riveting and ‘zigzag flush’ reinforcement. Original “M” back pocket stitch design, securing inside all cotton twill backing.
* Stitching: All 100% cotton colour thread. We are using an original MF 12 types of gauge/colour combination thread for each pair of jeans. Main colours are Orange/Yellow/White, non colorfast.
* Trims: Original Mister Freedom casted combo metal fly buttons, steel back. Unmarked copper flat top rivetting.
* Labeling: Handmade original MF® debossed natural cowhide leather patch on right back pocket. Cheeze cloth size labeling stitched in rear part of waist band.
* Shrinkage: 8% or less, with minimal shrinkage with cold rinse/hang dry (recommended) and maximum shrinkage with hot wash/full dryer cycle. As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur depending on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
* Sizing: The Californian comes UN-WASHED and “oversized” so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER shrinkage.
Example: A tagged W32 x L34 “Californian”, off the shelf, actually measures 33” x 36” before wash. They will shrink to approx. 32” x 34” after rinse/dry.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear from a W30 to W32 depending on my mood/style of the pants (I have a W30 on the photo, about 2 months wear.)
NOTE:
1) On length:
To avoid the effect of the “accordion” legs, typical of the Japanese denim replica silhouettes, we chose graduated length for the Californian. Many pairs of vintage denim are often seen worn “as found”, ie. sometimes borderline too short on taller individuals. We prefer this to the ‘endless’ legs characteristic of all new denim production.
If the jeans are too long, cuff them (sloppy rolls or folded) if you like cuffs. If they are just or a tad too short, a narrow single fold cuff still looks cool imo. Just wear good footwear!
If they look like bermudas on you, then it’s not meant to be…
2) On washing:
We recommend the “quick cold rinse, hang dry and wear when damp” method. Subsequent washing when REALLY needed, minimal detergent and hang dry.
The “wear ’em raw” method is great too (makes for amazing wear), but you might want to size down (if you are a measured waist 30”, wear a tagged W29), and never hit water! Even when worn raw, denim will shrink/stretch with heat/tension, so your jeans will adapt to your body over time.
3) Leather patch:
The debossed MF® pocket leather patch will lose its details/colour with washing in warm/hot water (for those of you who insist on hot soaking their jeans…) It will dry out and crack overtime, and is intended to do so.
The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.54 is available RAW/unwashed.
Tagged Sizes
W28 × L32 SOLD OUT
W29 × L32 SOLD OUT
W30 × L32 SOLD OUT
W31 × L32 SOLD OUT
W32 × L34 SOLD OUT
W33 × L34 SOLD OUT
W34 × L34 SOLD OUT
W36 × L34 SOLD OUT
W38 × L34 SOLD OUT
(see “Sizing” section above for the low-down)
Retail $249.95
Call (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
|
