“Blouson de Quart”, indigo jungle cloth issue
Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection
Moving along with our Fall 2016 Anniversary Collection, marking ten years of collaborations with our friends at Sugar Cane Co (Toyo Enterprises).
Here is a popular classic pattern we have been playing with for years: the USN Deck Jacket, aka N-1.
Our version is not a period replica, those being abundantly available today from various brands, but rather our twist on several vintage Government-issued foul weather jackets. Freely mix-matching models and types from the US Navy and Marine Nationale (French Navy) of the 1940’s through 1960’s, we released the first iteration in 2008, the original Type N-1H deck jacket of our 2008 “Naval Clothing Tailor” early mfsc adventures. The Type N-1H never existed as a USN-issued garment, but after mixing deck jacket models for our original design, we simply added the “H” of hook to “N-1” for the name.
A Troy blanket-lined version followed for Fall 2010, the Type N-1H “Troy” issue. Vintage Navy deck coats were so popular at the time that J.Crew even picked up some of ours to spice-up their menswear catalog.
In 2014, the “Sea Hunt” collection featured yet another twist on the pattern, the Blouson de Quart, in mil-specs khaki jungle cloth. (The original blog post features some old French Navy photos that inspired this version.)
For Fall 2016, we thought of a new deck jacket hybrid model, a modified indigo-dyed N1-H/Blouson de Quart . If we had made use of indigo jungle cloth in the past (N-1Z Deck Pants), we really wanted a darker shade of indigo for this Anniversary event. We made a special request to the textile experts at Sugar Cane Co and, as always, they delivered.
At the prototype stage, we found the color mix of that deep indigo blue and the chocolate brown alpaca so attractive that we went full alpaca lining, body and collar.
Made from high quality (period mil-specs) fabrics, our deck jacket is solid and quite warm, as they were originally intended to be, to keep sailors protected from the cold and damp marine air while on deck duty.
Please note that more recent R&D has concluded that layering is a key requisite to shield from the cold. Modern military-issued field gear typifies this evolution, and bulky garments are now obsolete and have been replaced by lighter hi-tech clothing worn in layers.
The mfsc “Blouson de Quart” in indigo jungle cloth is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
NOTE: For production, both MF® and “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” woven labels are sewn separately, not overlapping. Above photos are of an early show sample.
* Shell: Tight weave 14 Oz. “Jungle Cloth”, 100% cotton grosgrain, period mil-specs, dark indigo blue, milled and indigo-dyed in small batches in Japan.
* Lining: Warm, non-itchy, soft-touch wool pile alpaca full lining, chocolate brown color, vintage mil-specs.
* Freely inspired by 1940’s-1960’s vintage US Navy and French Marine Nationale foul weather-type deck jackets issued to enlisted personnel.
* Double front closure featuring both a 1950’s-type TALON zipper, and a wind flap secured by 1940’s-type clip hooks.
* Full lining, vintage USN-style chocolate brown wool pile alpaca.
* Alpaca stand collar, chin strap.
* Concealed chill-protectant wool knit cuffs.
* Synch adjustment string.
* MF® teardrop hand-warmer pockets, lined with golden brown cotton corduroy.
* Tonal poly-cotton thread stitching.
* Limited Ten Year Anniversary Edition.
* No outside military markings.
* Made in Japan.
We had these jackets professionally rinsed. NOT distressed, but gently rinsed and tumble-dried.
Our indigo jungle cloth Blouson de Quart is pre-shrunk, and true to size. I wear a comfortable 38 in this coat, with room for a denim jacket or wool sweater underneath. Please note that I am wearing a Fletcher L/S T-shirt, a chambray Patrol Shirt, a CPO Shirt 189ac and a Cowboy Jacket on the fit pic. Toasty.
We have taken the measurements to the best of our abilities. Refer to our sizing chart and remember that measurements are from the outside of the fabric. The lining is about ¼ inch thick, which reduces the inside room by that much.
Please DO NOT try to wash this jacket in a home washing machine! You risk ruining both machine and jacket. The Blouson de Quart weights a ton when wet, the metal hooks will get snagged, the indigo-dyed fabric will get marbling marks etc…
Activities and frequency of wear will dictate when cleaning is needed. Please use common sense with spot cleaning or take the jacket to a professional eco-friendly cleaner. The jacket can also be hand-washed in a tub filled with cold water. Use eco-friendly detergent for delicate colors. Hang to dry.
With normal wear and outside exposure, the indigo-dyed jungle cloth fabric will develop an attractive patina.