Mister Freedom® “Naval Clothing Tailor” (NCT) CHINOS, 12 Oz. “Okinawa” denim, mfsc FW2020 “Waterfront Surplus”. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® NTC Chinos Okinawa ©2020

Mister Freedom® NTC Chinos Okinawa ©2020

Mister Freedom® NTC Chinos Okinawa ©2020

Mister Freedom® NTC Chinos Okinawa ©2020

Mister Freedom® NTC Chinos Okinawa ©2020

Mister Freedom® NTC Chinos Okinawa ©2020

Mister Freedom® “NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” (NCT) CHINOS, 12Oz “301 Okinawa” SC denim.
FW2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” catalog.
Made in JAPAN.

This pattern was part of the original line-up of the small grouping that somewhat managed to put us on the fashion map sometime in 2008, i.e. the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” (NCT) capsule collection.
For the nostalgics, we still unearth remnants from our ship’s stowage occasionally, a misplaced stack here, mislabeled box there, and we update inventory with New Old Stock (NOS).
A reissue of the original chino twill model was released for our 2016 mfsc ten-year anniversary, and we have issued several iterations of that pattern through the years.

Our NCT Chinos are inspired by 1940’s US Army chino trousers, a pattern plausibly revisited by a Naval Base tailor at some point, featuring a mix of period Mil-Specs and fancy civvy custom tailoring. The cut is fairly representative of our early days, featuring a slimmer leg and lower rise than military originals. We were at the time morphing the high-waisted and baggy cuts of 1930s-40s utilitarian designs with European tailored silhouettes. Most of our bottoms today feature a higher rise than our NCT Chinos.

For Fall 2020, we are introducing a denim model of the NCT Chinos pattern, cut from an old mfsc favorite, a 12Oz. “301 Okinawa” selvedge denim exclusively developed and trademarked by Sugar Cane Co in Japan. That special Left Hand Twill (LHT) denim has been milled in several fabric weights by SC through the years, but consistently consists of a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton. The sugar cane fibers, a by-product of the sugar cane industry, are responsible for the slubby and “hairy” quality of the twill, and, full disclaimer, we have heard stories about customers plucking out prickly fibers in the weave with tweezers!

One of the more desirable characteristics of this premium denim is the combination of both a dark indigo warp and rapid fading ability. MF® OG denimheads will attest to the rewarding patina potential of the Okinawa denim family.

The pocket bags are cut from an old mfsc classic fabric, a fancy striped ticking twill inspired by antique French textiles. For a subdued demeanor, we kept the stitching tonal and opted for black-painted metal donut-type tack buttons for the fly and waistband.
The decorative arcuate stitch on the slash and welt pocket openings is a detail borrowed from early European tailoring. The leg construction uses flat-felled seams and the Okinawa selvedge is displayed in each pocket facing.

The Mister Freedom® NCT Chinos “Okinawa” denim edition, are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co in Japan.

FABRIC:
“Okinawa 301” denim, 12 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, “hairy” and slubby, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan on narrow shuttle looms, from a blend of 20% Okinawan recycled sugar cane fibers and 80% cotton.

SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by vintage 1940’s US Army chino trousers, custom-made military garments and early European tailoring.
* Stripe ticking 100% cotton pocketing and waistband facing.
* Button fly, black-painted metal donut-type tack buttons.
* Thin trousers-style belt-loops.
* Arcuate decorative stitching on front slash pockets and back welt pockets, with concealed selvedge ID on pocket facing.
* Watch pocket, with concealed selvedge ID.
* Flat-felled leg seams.
* Tonal 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Woven mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” rayon label on inside waistband.
* Designed in USA.
* Made in JAPAN.

SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® NCT Chinos in “Okinawa” denim come RAW/unwashed. The garment is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. The denim will shrink to tagged size after an initial cold soak.
We recommend this usual protocol before wear:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
  • Washing machine spin dry.
  • Line dry. (No heat dryer)

I opted for a W32 for a comfortable fit. I hemmed my pair to my preferred length with a traditional 1¾ fold. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.

Mister Freedom® NTC Chinos Okinawa ©2020

CARE:
Wash when necessary, using appropriate methods pertaining to premium denim.
We recommend turning garment inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using a heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, as the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.

Available RAW (unwashed)

Waist 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® “PRIVATEER” Rollneck Sweater, Indigo and Ecru Cotton Rib Knit, mfsc FW2020 “Waterfront Surplus”. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

 

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® “PRIVATEER” Rollneck Sweater, Indigo and Ecru Cotton Rib Knit.
FW2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus”.
Made in Japan.

The pattern of the MF® PRIVATEER Rollneck is inspired by an older crew neck casual cotton sweater from our archives, to which we mounted a classic high rolled collar, turtleneck or rollneck, giving the resulting hybrid its nautical vibe.

Vintage prototype of the MF® PRIVATEER (rollneck is Photoshopped in) with pattern edits ©2020

We kept the textured 1×1 “fisherman” rib knit of the original, along with the raglan sleeve construction, but extended the seamless cuffs and bottom webbing for an older sweater vibe. The overall proportions were tweaked for a shorter vintage silhouette that pairs well with high-waisted pants.

We opted for 100% cotton knit, a more SoCal-friendly and less allergy-inducing option than traditional rollneck wool sweaters. Our PRIVATEER is definitely not intended as a contender to a wool submariner’s jumper in the warmth department, but is rather devised as a casual mid-season piece for temperate climates, leading to extra playtime disguised as Captain Haddock in Sunny California.

The original sample that inspired our PRIVATEER was pure white and we chose to hand-dye it indigo during R&D. We liked the results, so for production, we settled on two color options: a specific warm tone of ecru matched from an old vintage Aran sweater, and the medium indigo blue shade matched from our back-yard dyed prototype.

The MF® PRIVATEER is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
100% cotton 1×1 rib knit, “fisherman” rib pattern or “Brioche” stitch type.
Two color options:
1) “Aran” ecru.
2) Indigo blue.

SPECS:
* An original hybrid mfsc pattern, inspired by casual sweaters and vintage nautical jumpers.
* Single fold ribbed rollneck.
* “Fisherman” rib knit stitch body.
* 100% cotton knit.
* Raglan sleeve pattern with contrast rib pattern mounting.
* Large seamless ribbed waistband.
* Foldable extended and seamless ribbed cuffs.
* Original mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Made in JAPAN.

SIZING/FIT:
The PRIVATEER Rollneck, in both ecru and indigo, comes pre-shrunk and is ready-to-wear as-is. No soaking required.
This garment is considered true-to-size. I opted for a medium, for a comfortable fit.

The specific “Fisherman” rib allows horizontal (crosswise) stretch, with good natural recovery (= the knit’s ability to return to its initial size after being stretched.)
Therefore, measurements can be misleading, as with all stretchy knit garments.
We do recommend sticking to your usual MF® size with the  PRIVATEER Rollneck. If you are a Medium in mfsc shirting, you are more-likely a Medium in this sweater, regardless of our chart measurements. The arms might feel a bit snug and first, and pulling your head though the neck might feel a bit tight, but the sweater will settle naturally after a few minutes of wear.
I am wearing a chambray Snipes shirt underneath a Medium PRIVATEER in the fit photos, and am 5’7 approx 150Lbs.

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

Mister Freedom® PRIVATEER Rollneck cotton rib sweater ©2020

CARE:
Turn sweater inside out. Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Air dry flat on a clean towel, or hang dry on a well-padded hanger to avoid shoulder stretching.
Light fuzzing or piling may occur temporarily and will subside.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Available PRE-SHUNK
Sizes
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® “SNIPES” Shirt, Buzz Rickson’s USN Indigo Chambray, mfsc FW2020 “Waterfront Surplus”. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES, BR chambray, raw ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES, BR chambray, rinsed ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Fabric evo: Mister Freedom® unworn “SNIPES Shirt” (2020) and well-worn “PATROL Shirt” (2014), featuring a completely different pattern, but cut from the same “BR” indigo chambray.

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, indigo chambray ©2020

Mister Freedom “SNIPES” Shirt, “BR” indigo blue 5 Oz. selvedge chambray.
FW 2020 mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” Collection.
Made in Japan.

The pattern of the MF® SNIPES is inspired by the earliest model of US Gov-issued full button front uniform shirt.

Identified as Specs “No. 8-26C Shirt, Flannel, Olive-Drab, Coat Style” by the Quartermaster Corps, it was introduced sometime in 1933 and issued to US Army and Air Corps personnel and FDR’s CCC enrollees alike. This new uniform shirt pattern was deemed “Coat Style”, marking a practical departure from its predecessor, the mustard color pullover wool shirt commonly associated with WW1 Doughboys. The overall design was borrowed from civilian workwear, back when utilitarian garment-making skills bordered on fancy tailoring prowess. This is definitely an intricate pattern by today’s workwear clothing standards.

Besides the full six-button front placket improvement, the characteristics of the early 8-26C shirt included a one-piece unstructured collar (no collar band), a singular style of elbow reinforcement patch, and two large functional chest pockets, each with a pen compartment.

The Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt retains all of that military design DNA, but we opted for an indigo blue chambray fabric treatment instead of the original US Army OD wool blend release. The slubby indigo chambray is complimented by the olive green contrast stitching and button facing poplin placket, with a touch of red on the side bartacks.

That premium selvedge chambray fabric is a favorite of ours. Developed by Buzz Rickson’s for their vintage US Navy utility shirts repros, it has become a staple of the mfsc shirting catalog for some time. See the Continental, Tonkinoise and Patrol Shirt, all released in that exact same fabric. Some of the product photos above feature a well-worn BR chambray Patrol Shirt from 2014, for fabric evo ref.

Blending 1930s US Army uniform shirt design with 1940-50s US Navy period mil-specs fabric, this original MF® shirt needed a new moniker. Because of the strong vintage naval utility chambray work shirt vibe, we went for SNIPES. The term refers to US Navy enlisted personnel working in the engine room, the “sailors that sail below”, also known as “Black Gang” for their grease-covered blues and dixie cup covers. See Machinist’s Mate Jake Holman’s dungarees for a Hollywood rendition.

The MF® SNIPES Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC: Period mil-specs USN “Buzz Rickson’s” indigo blue chambray, slubby 5 Oz. fabric, white with blue line selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by a vintage 1930’s US Army wool uniform classic.
* Full 6 button front opening.
* Rounded tails.
* Olive corozzo wood buttons.
* Two large utilitarian chest pockets with pen compartments.
* Unstructured one-piece collar.
* Elbow reinforcement patches.
* Olive poplin button placket facing.
* Chainstitch construction with narrow folder.
* All cotton olive color contrast stitching.
* Red bartack in lieu of side gussets.
* Original mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The BR chambray SNIPES Shirt comes RAW/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Hang until fully dry.

I personally opted for a MEDIUM for a comfortable fit. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs., and although the SMALL did fit with more of a trim uniform silhouette, it was a bit too tight in the chest.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CHART

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

 

 

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, navy blue & indigo blue melton wool, mfsc FW2020 “Waterfront Surplus”. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, navy blue melton wool ©2020

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, indigo Melton wool (left) and navy blue melton wool (right) ©2020

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, indigo Melton wool (left) and navy blue melton wool (right) ©2020

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, indigo Melton wool (left) and navy blue melton wool (right) ©2020

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, indigo Melton wool (left) and navy blue melton wool (right) ©2020

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, indigo Melton wool (left) and navy blue melton wool (right) ©2020

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, indigo melton wool ©2020

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.
mfsc FW2020 “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”, SURPLUS catalog.
Made in Japan.

The main inspiration behind the MF51 is the Government-Issued “SHIRTS, MAN’S, FIELD, WOOL/NY” (DA-36-030-QM-8549), a Korean War era US military cold weather staple. We combined the classic OD wool overshirt pattern with the vibe of vintage USN and civvy CPO shirts.

Vintage US Army Field Shirt, 1954 pattern, issued in 1956.

US Army M-1951 Cold-Wet/Dry Clothing System.

What stands out of the original design is the angled shoulder yoke pattern with its characteristic “X” rear panels intricate construction, and the two utilitarian large chest pockets matched with the wide open collar.
For a custom military tailor look à la MF®, we spiced-up the inside of the shirt with OD bias tape panels, and a concealed olive twill smart phone pocket. The left pocket flap features a pen slot, with an inner pen sleeve noticeable from the contrast stitching on the inside of the shirt.

If the originals were issued in an olive green shade #108 wool/nylon blend, we opted instead for a soft-hand navy blue melton wool, blending with our “Waterfront Surplus” theme and its many nautical-related garments. We are also releasing an indigo-dyed melton wool version of the MF51, which looks very similar to its navy blue mate, but with the added appeal of future indigo fading and natural evolution from wear.

We played around with the milspecs/instructions triple military labeling. The MF51 harbors our new 2020 original “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” woven rayon label (the two nautical pennants representing Mike and Foxtrot, and not the flag of Scotland), along with two white quartermaster-style cheesecloth tags, a branding combo visible on the outside from the unusual uninterrupted stitch.

The two darts of the lower back panel were initially intended to be easily unstitched by the wearer to add width to the shirt. If we kept this detail and the broad shoulder cut, we adjusted the fit to a more contemporary silhouette, as the vintage specimen are quite ill-fitting. Still, our MF51s are considered overshirts and are cut accordingly to accommodate layering.

The Mister Freedom® mfsc MF51 FIELD SHIRT is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
10 Oz. Melton wool, soft-hand, milled in Japan.
Color options:
a) Navy blue Melton wool.
b) Indigo-dyed Melton wool.

SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by 1950’s US Army Field Shirts and vintage CPO shirts.
* Open collar.
* Angled shoulder yoke pattern and “X” rear panel construction.
* Olive green contrast stitching.
* Cotton bias tape front panel facing.
* Two large utilitarian chest pockets.
* Inner smart phone pocket.
* Pen slot/pocket.
* Lower back panel cinching darts.
* Olive green corozo buttons.
* Original mfsc triple labeling.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING:
The Mister Freedom® mfsc MF51 FIELD SHIRT comes ready-to-wear and requires no soaking or processing. This shirt style is considered an overshirt and the garment is cut accordingly to accommodate layering.
I opted to size down to a SMALL for a trimmer silhouette for my frame (5’7/150 Lbs), considering our Southern California climate often limits the need for heavy layering. The small MF51 feels quite snug, more like a fitted CPO than an overshirt, but the medium was much too roomy for my own taste. The size that will work for you depends on your own proportions and desired silhouette.

Please refer to sizing chart and compare measurement with a similar garment that fits you well to chose the proper size.

Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool. Mister Freedom® MF51 Field Shirt, melton wool.

CHART

CARE:
Dry clean only.

SIZES: S, M, L, XL, XXL

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® SWABBIES dungarees, 10 Oz. selvedge “Snow” denim edition, mfsc SS2020 “Waterfront Surplus”. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® SWABBIES dungarees, 10 Oz. “Snow” denim edition.
mfsc SS2020 “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”, SURPLUS catalog.
Made in Japan.

It’s been “All Hands on Deck” lately. For us at the MF® HQ, but more-importantly nation-wide, as anyone who has access to electricity and a few brain cells must have noticed, unlike this fine group of our Country’s learning elite…
So here are the SWABBIES, the final installment of our “WATERFRONT SURPLUS” nautical capsule collection.

The term swabbie is military lingo for a low-rank bluejacket, referring to the sailor’s chore of mopping (swabbing) the deck, barefoot in the old days. This derogatory expression is typical of the healthy rivalry in different branches of the United States Armed Forces. US Marines might call sailors swabbies. A sailor who’d rather be referred to as squid, might call a Marine jungle bunny, or more recently crayon eater. Submariners are bubble heads… All in good humor. This insiders’ exchange quotes some other colorful examples.

The inspiration behind the Mister Freedom® SWABBIES came from a pair of rare 1940’s-50’s private-purchase naval dungarees from the “Portlite Uniform” maker. If these conformed to the general silhouette and specs of traditional US Navy-issued denim dungarees, they featured really fancy tailoring and intricate pattern work for a pair of work trousers, which we liked. The apparently-inconspicuous two front pockets are actually a very clever combination of two type of pocket patterns, slash and patch, a construction tour-de-force on a wrap leg that only make sense when studying the inside of the pants.
Fabric yield on that vintage specimen was definitely optimized by using the fabric selvedge on as many parts of the pants as possible, folded waist band, front pockets, watch pocket, and rear pockets. The rear pockets feature an horizontal warp, as the patch pockets of the denim Longshoreman do, a detail that will only start revealing itself with wear and patina.

The most striking feature of our SWABBIES however is the authentic navy bells. We didn’t spare fabric on this one, and went full-on 1940’s-style authentic bells. Unlike 1970’s hippy bell bottoms, traditional naval bells flare from the inseam, not outseam, as the trousers’ profile photo attests. This is due to the fact that traditional navy dungarees feature a wrap leg (one folded single piece of fabric per leg, no out seam), a pattern style we have often toyed with, from our 2007 7161 Utility Trousers to the more recent Topsiders multiple iterations.

The story behind the origin of naval flares seems to be lost to History, with many legends floating around. Bell bottom trousers might have been issued to US Navy sailors as early as 1813, with a denim model introduced in 1901. The wide leg opening allegedly allowed roll-ups above the knee, keeping the pants dry while swabbing, as regulations from Secretary of the Navy Crowninshield in 1817 suggest. (source)
The myth about tying up the legs and using the trousers as a life preserver for a man overboard is probably moonshine on the water.

We kept the fit of our SWABBIES authentic, and refused to compromise with modern fashion adjustments, ‘cause we craycray like that. These feature a high rise, fit top block, and flaring that starts at the knee, gradually reaching a whooping 11.5 inches at leg opening! Not everyone will pull that off, but we just love that unmistakable vintage naval silhouette so much that we had to add bells to the MF® catalog at some point. And since 2020 is nothing short of an unusual year so far, there it is.

The SWABBIES’ fabric, a dark and handsome 2×1 selvedge denim with a “snowy” neppy texture, matches that of the Dockyard and Longshoreman. For those into the total look, the set will soon be modeled for your viewing pleasure, as soon as things get a bit under control in the World. For less of a “Sand Pebbles” extra statement, pairing the SWABBIES with a solid Skivvy, a classic chambray shirt or pull-over Secoya might be the ticket. Vintage naval photos abound and could be a style inspiration for some. The fits are also a bit all over the place on period photos, as can be seen on the shots below from albums in our archives.

The fabric evo on the SWABBIES should be quite interesting with normal wear and occasional laundering, not unlike that of vintage US dungarees.

The mfsc SWABBIES are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co., from denim fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
10 Oz. dark indigo blue 2×1 denim, “snowy” neppy texture, white with yellow line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern inspired by US Navy 1940’s-50’s private-purchase denim bell bottom trousers aka dungarees.
* Authentic traditional USN dungarees flared leg pattern, inseam bell shape with straight outseam.
* Wrap leg (no outseam.)
* Intricate use of the denim selvedge in construction (folded waist band, front pockets, watch pocket, and rear pockets.)
* Black 1940s-style laurel leaf starburst metal donut waist & fly buttons.
* Front pockets combining complex patch-type and slash-type pattern due to the challenge of the wrap leg. No open seams.
* Rear patch pockets cut using horizontal warp.
* Flat lock chainstitch construction.
* Black tonal all-cotton stitching.
* Bar-tacked stress points.
* Woven rayon mfsc “SURPLUS” label on inside waistband.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING:
The SWABBIES come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

I opted for a W32 in the Swabbies, for a fitted top block, comfortable thighs and period bell-bottoms. The waist might feel a bit tight after the cold soak, but with a bit of wear, the “snow” denim stretches back slightly to the tagged waist. After minimal wear, the fabric will naturally stretch at the stress points, like the waist, as opposed to, say, the ankles.
I opted for a no cuff silhouette, until swabbing duty. To facilitate sizing for wide range of frames, we cut limited odd sizes too (29, 31, 33).

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

CARE:
Wash when necessary. We recommend turning garment inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Available RAW/unwashed.
Sizes (W is for Waist, measured in inches.)
W 28
29

30
31
32
33
34
36
W 38

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020