Introducing the fourth and final installement of MFSC Apache collection: La Chemise Hirondelle
Inspired by early European shirting, here is a fine lightweight moleskine pull-over shirt for Fall, which wraps up our French escapade this season.
The name hirondelle (swallow) is a reference to a collar shape typical of 1930’s french shirting. Longer and pointier than its American ‘wing tip’ collar counterpart.
It also refers to the bird often seen tattooed on the French Apaches skins. The hirondelle symbolized freedom and escape.
SPECS:
PATTERN: All original MFSC pattern and fit. Pull-over style.
FABRICS: Three options
a) BLACK moleskine: Lightweight 100% cotton moleskine, 5 oz., the French choice of workwear and outdoor washable fabric since the 1800′s. Moleskine is a tightly woven twill, with a napped surface. The close weave makes this fabric almost windproof, warm, insulating and very durable. It performs much better than denim does, but is very expensive to mill. Our 100% cotton moleskine is milled in Japan, to the specs of a 1900s swatch from our archives.
b) CREAM moleskine
c) INDIGO métisse cotton twill: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light… Milled in Japan in limited batch.
This option is the same fabric the veste ouvrier is made of, so it will fade to this with wear.
DETAIL:
* Back and cuffs shearing
* Placket tab to secure to trousers waist button.
* Rare vintage 1920’s New Old Stock glass buttons from France.
* Skinny chin strap
* Longer back tail
* Scarf retaining collar loops
* Indigo popeline collar-stay piecing (or anything small you might want to conceal)
* Two original flap chest pockets
* High stitch count construction, tonal all cotton thread. French seams
* French style side gussets
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF®.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops of the Fall 2011 Collection.
Please recycle those boxes, they can be used for home storage of small items.
WASHING: All three options come RAW/unwashed.
Hand wash with care (or very gentle wash cycle), cold water, dryer OK.
Use no soap/detergent with the indigo métisse, and hand wash only when really needed, to maximize the beauty of natural fading.
SIZING & SHRINKAGE:
LIMITED EDITION. Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes 37 (Small), 39 (Medium), 41 (Large), 43 (XLarge), 45(XXLarge)
Chemise Hirondelle MOLESKINE (black or cream): Retail $389.95
Chemise Hirondelle INDIGO METISSE: Retail $409.95
NOTE: The mixed photos of the ‘indigo métisse hirondelle’ are of my personal shirt, worn and washed several times over the course of one year or so. Production comes RAW and unwashed.
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support.
MFSC “Les Apaches” Spring 2011 Collection: Introducing the CHEMISE FANTAISIE (ie. fancy shirt)
Just in, some fancy shirting for the Apache in you 😉
Inspired by French gent garb from 1900’s to 1930’s, the chemise fantaisie will put some fancy threads on your back. The fabrics were painstakingly developped in Japan from vintage textiles swatches and turn of the century shirting samples. The pattern is based on early silhouettes and vintage prototypes, with the usual MF® creative spin and early American influence.
Detachable collar type (aka. stand collar), fancy shearing, european tailoring single needle construction, NOS glass buttons… the works.
Nice as a fancy addition to your favorite blue jeans, under a gilet de ville, or… as a better way to paint the town than the usual chambrays.
Along with other things we make, this MFSC Chemise Fantaisie “is what it is” (ie. not life style changing…) and it’s up to you to make it look good. If you are reading this, you should not have any problems doing so…
SPECS
PATTERN: An all original MFSC pattern, inspired by early European fancy shirting. Because of the back yoke shearing, the cut is a bit wider than our MFSC 645 Utility Chambrays.
FABRIC: Three options, milled in limited batch. Unwashed and un-sanforized.
* BLEU CALICO: Blue colour base, all cotton broadcloth 3.5 Oz., tightly woven brocade jacquard with subtle calico print (discharge and navy colour).
* BLANC CALICO: White colour base, all cotton broadcloth 3.5 Oz., tightly woven brocade jacquard with subtle calico print (rust colour).
* ROUGE GARANCE: Natural/beige colour base, all cotton broadcloth 3.5 Oz., printed with a madder red (aka “Turkey Red”) calico print.
BUTTONS: Authentic French 1900′s-1930′s New Old Stock glass buttons, also referred to as boutons Briare, because of their regional origin. Those buttons are RARE (you can find small quantities of them here and there, but finding enough for a whole collection was no easy task), but we even put an extra one stitched to the inside care label… Because of the very involved process of manufacturing this type of glass buttons, production has stopped in the 1940’s in France.
COLLAR: Detachable type, held by fancy metal “collar studs”. Original collar studs were usually made of bone, ivory or porcelaine for off the shelf shirting. One would get a set of fancy studs of their liking at the Haberdashery store, along with a tie clip and cuff links… You can shmEbay them.
Very often, the removable collars were lost and this type of stand collar shirts are often seen worn without them on old photographs (the charpentiers below are not Apaches, nor fancy dandies, but some of them DID lose their collars…)
 French quarrymen (Photo © Collection Roger-Viollet) DETAILS:
* Button placket extended tab, to button to your breeches waist button, so the shirt stays tucked in.
* Sheared back yoke and wrist cuffs.
* White cotton popeline button placket contrast facing.
* Passe Cravate loop in back shoulder yoke, to secure tie or scarf.
* Very high stitch count all cotton stitching.
* Extended tucked in buttoned “belly flap”.
* French style side gussets.
* Single needle tailoring construction, no chain stitch.
SIZING:
Again, labeled in French: 35 (XS), 37 (S), 39 (M), 41 (L), 45 (XL)
Click on chart below for RAW and after rinse and hang dry measurements (t.
Limited Edition, designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.
Available RAW (unwashed)
A) Chemise Fantaisie BLEU CALICO
Available Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
Retail $399.95
B) Chemise Fantaisie BLANC CALICO
Available Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL
Retail $399.95
B) Chemise Fantaisie ROUGE GARANCE
Available Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL
Call (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you all dearly for your support.
MFSC “Les Apaches” Spring 2011 Collection: Introducing ‘ze’ Pantalon Apache!
I know. We’re late. But the deliveries from our Japanese partners have been quite delayed this season, for obvious reasons. We don’t really mind the delay, since our MFSC collections do not follow trends, seasons or reason.
So here they are, ’em anticipated stripey breeches!
Inspired by turn of the century to 1930′s French tailor-made gent garb, our Pantalon Apache come in three different fabric options. Woven in Japan exclusively for MFSC, the fabrics were developed from vintage swatches and samples of 100 year old textiles from our archives. They are not replicas, as we changed some yarn colour combinations, tones and texture, giving them our trademark twist. The fabrics are 100% cotton, making them drape and feel the way we wanted. They were a real endeavour to mill and had some people pulling their hair in the process…
The trousers can be matched with our Gilet de Ville, cut from the same cloth. Throw a Veste Ouvrier on top to dress them down, or a vintage leather coat or blazer… Also great with a simple white Marcel (French slang for tank-top undershirt, aka “wife-beater”, no offense Mesdemoiselles), for the BBQ months. Add your own vintage buttons to hook-up your suspenders. Dress shoes, motorcycle boots or clunky old work shoes… Work it out pally! Nice break from the daily denim accoutrement.
Check out our friend “Mr. French CanCan“, aka Vilbo Jr. from Toulouse, interresting 5 part retrospective on the Parisian Apache culture. Great read and photos for inspiration.
SPECS:
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by early French tailor-made suiting. 1930’s silhouette with higher-rise and fuller legs.
FABRIC: Milled in Japan, in small limited batches, exclusive to MFSC. The three options are NOT an alternate colour way of the same woven fabric, rather three totally differently woven fabrics as follow:
* GREY COVERT STRIPE: 10 Oz., all cotton, double cloth, 6 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
* INDIGO STRIPE BLUE: 8 Oz., all cotton, 7 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
* COVERT STRIPE BROWN: 8 Oz., all cotton, 5 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
WAIST & POCKET LINING: All cotton MFSC stripe ticking and original MFSC Métisse 50% cotton/50% Linen plain weave, indigo dyed and black pigment coated.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s).
DETAILS:
*Side adjustement slide buckle straps, with original NOS French metal hardware.
* Two back pocket with button dart flaps.
* Concealed waist hook, original NOS French metal hardware.
* “V” belt loops.
* “American” cuffs.
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: All fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer, this gilet de ville, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops. Yo Captain, ain’t ya tired of ze plug???…it’s just that we REALLY love ’em boxes!
SHRINKAGE: All fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer (or shouldn’t, should one get the urge to do so), this pantalon Apache, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
All three fabric have different shrinkage specs, so RAW measurements of a same size will differ slightly from on cloth to another. After rinse and dry all three trousers options will fit the same.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized and labelled in french…
Click on chart below for Raw/Rinsed measurements (we do our best to measure accurately, but although sober, three different people measuring will come up with three different results… so the chart is APPROXIMATE):
Limited Edition, designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist US 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Retail $549.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like, and not what others do.
MISTER FREEDOM® x SUGAR CANE Spring 2011 Collection “Les Apaches”: The long-awaited for MFSC CHEMISE CALICO is here!
No comment on the situation in Japan, I am sure you are following the news as closely as we are. The SUGAR CANE factories have been stoically coping with the tragedy and it is amazing that they have been able to deliver anything at all. Tip of the hat, Sirs.
Elegant shirting is a large part of our MFSC Apaches collection, and without further ado, we introduce the chemise calico in two versions: An indigo blue Calico and a white Calico. Inspired by late 1800’s European cotton printed shirting fabrics and several vintage swatches from MF® Archives, we went back to early techniques of discharge printing to produce these textiles in Japan.
SPECS:
PATTERN: All original MFSC pattern, inspired by early European shirting.
FABRIC: All cotton fancy Broadcloth, 3.5 oz. Exclusively woven and printed in Japan for MFSC. Limited run.
A) Indigo dyed base, discharge calico print.
B) White base, indigo calico print.
BUTTONS:Authentic French 1900’s-1930’s New Old Stock glass buttons, also referred to as boutons Briare, because of their regional origin (Finding them in France was a real wild goose chase…)
DETAILS:
* Original MFSC pocketing
* Full button front with secure “belly flap”.
* Lower button placket tab to secure shirt to trousers waist button. (there is a photo of Amedeo Modigliani out there, sporting one of those traditional shirting tabs…)
* Back yoke passe-cravate, to keep scarf or tie in place.
* Back panel and cuff early shirting traditional shearing.
* French style gussets.
* Collar and button placket facing with indigo dyed solid popeline.
* Original woven MFSC rayon labeling and sizing tab.
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle french seams, no overlock nor chainstitch. 100% Cotton thread, extra high stitch count.
PACKAGING: The shirts come in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork will be featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
SIZING: All the Apache shirting is sized/labelled in french.
35(Xsmall), 37 (small), 39 (medium), 41 (large), 43 (Xlarge), 45 (XXlarge)
SHRINKAGE: Both fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink lightly with cold wash/hang dry.
Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Available RAW (unwashed)
A) Chemise Indigo Calico
Available Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
Retail $359.95
B) Chemise White Calico
Available Sizes S, M, L, XL
Retail $359.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support.
And now, Mesdames et Messieurs…
MFSC Spring 2011 “Les APACHES”
The Paris of the Belle Époque (1900s) saw the emergence of a certain type of street outcasts. They lived in secret dens in the seedy and dimmed outskirts of the City of Lights, abhorred honest labor, hunted the Faubourgs and Quartier de Halles, and danced in local Guinguettes and dives, decked out in flamboyant outfits.
They were called Les Apaches…
Issued from the French lower working class, with a lack of education and absence of Future, they regrouped in loosely organized neighborhood gangs. Abiding by their own hoodlum code of honor, they woke up late, spoke the obscure slang Jare, and wore specific flashy clothes. Their dandy accoutrement combined with intimidating attitudes imposed both respect and fear from the Parisians and their police.
For 30 years, Paris’ Apaches gangs marked their territories by terrorizing honest bourgeois citizens, committing petty larceny, pimping and street fighting their lives away. For those who had ducked the knife and the bullet that bared their name or the ravage of the “Grande Guerre” (WW1), it was the inevitable outcome of Biribi or the Bagne de Cayenne.
In the 1920’s one a many high society dame was spotted mingling with charismatic Apache groups in local Java dance halls, letting her hair down in a famous Dance Apache, immortalized later by Hollywood (“Charlie Chan in Paris”, 1935) and several Broadway Shows. The French movie Casque d’Or (1953) relates a true story of a famous Apache event that took place in 1905.
Bourgeois newspapers of the period and universal fascination with the underworld turned the reign of the Apaches into a mix of myth and imagery that will forever mark the Paris of the 1900s to 1930s…
These are the premises and backdrop of the MISTER FREEDOM® x SUGAR CANE Spring 2011 Collection.
Influenced by early French haberdashery and work clothes, European tailoring and Old World silhouettes, this new venture is a departure from the “Americana” inspiration of previous seasons. After extensive research and development we turned a corner onto an unfamiliar avenue (Rue de la Grande Truanderie?) to offer this new look of the Old World…
The collection includes:
* Fancy shirting in printed calico fabrics, cotton jacquard, indigo “Métis” (cotton/linen weave) and pastel color dyed cotton pique.
* French workman outfits in cotton/linen indigo “Métis” twill and indigo ticking.
* Fancy city clothes in intricately woven stripe cotton fabrics.
More to come….
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