Mister Freedom® “Californian” Blue Jeans Lot.44

MF Californian Lot44 Box

Here is the final installement (5 of 5) of Mister Freedom® latest Collection entitled “American Sportswear”. Introducing the CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans, Lot.44
Same drill than with the Ranch Blouse, we have selected some New Old Stock selvedge denim from our archives to make the Californian Lot.44
Cut and sew has been a challenge, as previously mentioned, but we are happy with the results. One “five pocket” pattern in about 35 different denim… 28” to 33” width old shuttle loom made selvedge denim, collected throughout years of warehouses digging. Origin Japan and USA. Click on scan below for approximate colors and selvedge IDs

Calif Lot44 Fabrics scan

The pattern of the Californian Lot.44 is very similar to that of the Californian Lot.54, with a few design modifications:
* PATTERN: Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950′s era blue jeans.
* FABRICS: The assorted New Old Stock selvedge denim limited edition is only available at the MF® Beverly Blvd location, and at “Bazar” (1108c Abbot Kinney Blvd.,Venice, CA 90291, USA, phone 310-314-2101).
* Lot.44 vs. Lot.54 DETAILS: The Lot.44 has an added back cinch strap, longer inseam, yellow “M” pocket and side stitching, different fabric pocket bags.
* POCKETING: 100% cotton NOS stripe ticking denim. Some bag bags are made with indigo/white plaid twill. Random.
* FIT: Based on the general silhouette/image of the “BRMC” blue jeans of the Wild Ones (1953). Traditional mid-rise, “tubular” silhouette legs, fit seat.
These blue jeans are NOT skinnies, as we don’t dig the ‘men in tights’ or “girlfriend’s jeans” thingy.
* CONSTRUCTION: All made in U.S.A. Five pockets style. Selvedge legs and button hole fly flap. Riveted back pockets with ‘zigzag flush’ stitching. Original “M” back pocket stitch design, securing inside all cotton twill backing.
* STITCHING: All 100% cotton colour thread. We are using an original MF 12 types of gauge/colour combination thread for each pair of jeans. Main colours are Orange/Yellow, non colorfast.
* TRIMS: Original Mister Freedom casted combo metal fly buttons, steel back. Unmarked copper flat top rivetting.
* LABELING: Handmade original MF® debossed natural cowhide leather patch on right back pocket. Cheeze cloth size labeling stitched in rear part of waist band.
* PACKAGING: In the USA, the Californian Lot.44 comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
* SHRINKAGE: All fabrics are RAW and unwashed. Due to the assorted denim, shrinkage is all over the place. Please refer to chart below, where we shrink tested some of the jeans (cold soak for about 30mn, no agitation. Turned imside out and machine dryed for about 20mn, until 80% dried). Measurements are approximate.
Please don’t BOIL your jeans, as you will alter the color of the denim and ruin the leather patch.

Californian Lot44 Sizing Chart

The Californian Lot.44 comes UN-WASHED and “oversized” so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER shrinkage (more or less).
Example:  A tagged W32 x L36 “Californian”, off the shelf, actually measures 33” x 38” before wash.  Some denim will shrink to approx. 32” x 36” after rinse/dry.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit, so you can size up or down.
WASHING: To each his own, but we recommend the “quick cold rinse, hang dry and wear when damp” method. Subsequent washing when REALLY needed, minimal detergent and hang dry.

Garment designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition.

The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.44 is available RAW/unwashed.
Available tagged Sizes:
W30 × L34
W31 × L36
W32 × L36
W33 × L36
W34 × L36
W36 × L36
W38 × L36
(see “Shrinkage” section above for the low-down)
Retail $289.95

Available here.
Please call (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com for more info.
Thank you for your support.

Mister Freedom® MFSC American Sportswear Fall 2011 (Part 4): The “Shipyard Chinos”

Shipyard Chinos MFSC cl1

The fourth installment of our American Sportswear Fall2011 collection is in. Introducing the SHIPYARD CHINOS, made in USA…
To be honest, they feel as “Fall” as our NOS chambray shirts did but… whayagonado. One word: ooops.

Inspired by silhouettes from old photos and movies, naval garb, 30’s-40’s work pants… and the great Port of Los Angeles. So here are some chino pants to wrap around your legs.

PATTERN: All original MFSC pattern. Not the typical USAF/USN traditional “chinos” pattern, more of a work dungarees design, but in cotton chino twill.
FABRICS: 100% cotton tightly woven chino twill, woven in Japan. Very “crispy” feel. Lighter ounce. Three colours available, khaki, brown, navy.
* Wrap leg construction (no side seam)
* Front patch pockets secured in the waist band, copper rivet reinforced.
* Adjustable cinch back strap with NOS metal sharp prong buckle (yes, the kind that…)
* Rear cotton cloth patch for custom stenciling, concealed behind back strap.
* Metal donut crest buttons for waist and fly, painted black.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* Crotch copper rivet, so no sitting in front of the fire.
SIZING/FIT: Comfortable fit, but not baggy. I wear a size 30 on the photos. Could go to 32 for a more roomy silhouette and cinch the waist. The silhouette is according to personal preferences, but i don’t recommend wearing those chinos tight. If you are a true waist 31, you will fit in a waist 30 in the shipyard chinos.
This raw cotton fabric has some heavy shrinkage but will shrink to (a generous) tagged size. See chart below

Shipyard Chino Sizing chart

Garment designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Waist Size: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Colour: Khaki, Brown, Navy
Retail: $269.95

Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call (323) 653-2014 to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support.

Note: Also featured on the photos is a beat up MFSC Midnight P-Jacket, and some, not any cleaner, MF Road Camp boots. Also an original Mister Freedom® military recycled canvas bag, indigo dyed. Ok, i’ll let you go now 😉

Mister Freedom® MFSC American Sportswear Fall 2011 (Part 3): The “Ranch Blouse”


Ranch Blouse Box

The Made in USA “Ranch Blouse”NOS  is in… Yippee-ki-Yay 😉

Our MFSC Ranch Blouse is an homage to the denim jacket models that have been covering Americans’ backs for over 100 years.

No wheel reinvented here, just our humble version of that ‘closet must-have’.
Pull out the ol’ Texas Tuxedo or mix it with chinos, slacks… or our Speedway jeans… as you know it’s a pretty versatile garment.

Now, on production: To make things more challenging (why do easy when you can do complicated?) we decided to have the US prod of that jacket made of New Old Stock assorted denims from our archives. It did sound like a good idea at first 😉
Ranch Blouse NOS denim Swatches

Turns out, it has been a real challenge for the factory, and a real headache to control and process… No one has done it this way before (not boasting, just warning others!), and there is a reason for that: it’s brutal.
There is no way to describe the individual fabrics, nor to figure out the exact Oz. The above scan is an approximate reference for selvedge ID’s and shades of colors (although the scan makes some denim look more ‘black’ that in reality.) Ya ready?

PATTERN: MFSC pattern, an homage to the pioneer denim brands…
FABRICS: All 100% cotton NOS selvedge assorted raw denims, different origins, USA and Japan
Most options are indigo blue denim, but a few other colors are also available such as NOS Black (lighter Oz.), Brown, Stripe Twill (aka Rodeo Blouse)…
* Original 30’s style ’round collar’, with under layer zigzag stitching.
* Double unbalanced front pocketing.
* Original Mister Freedom “oxydized” metal buttons.
* Cinch back strap, with NOS metal prong buckle.
* Front expansion pleats, when the belly just can’t take it anymore.
* Copper rivet pocket and cuffs reinforcement, backed by leather washer.
* Button panel fold showing original denim selvedge ID on the inside of the jacket.
PACKAGING: In the USA, the blouse comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
Measurements in below chart are approximate because there are always slight variations in measuring a bulky surface.
There is ONE pattern grading for each size. Shrinkage is specific to each denim, and we will soon do rinse tests on groupings of 50+ yards and will try to post a % for some of the groupings. We anticipate an average shrinkage of most RAW denims from 3% to 8%, depending on water temperature, drying method and textiles specifics. Proportionally, there is often more noticeable shrinkage in length than width with RAW denim. Also, there will be natural minimal stretching back and forth with subsequent wear/rinse…
We recommend an original 10 mn cold soak, no agitation, spin dry, ‘wear to shape’ and line drying.

Ranch Blouse RAW sizing

FIT PHOTOS: I am wearing a size 38, on/off for about 6 months. One original rinse.
NOTE: The worn jacket in some of the shots is for reference only. This is NOT how the “Ranch Blouse” comes out of the box. It is only sold RAW/unwashed in the USA, so you can, not only start your own natural fading/wearing process, but do the right thing for our rivers by NOT purchasing factory chemically pre-distressed garments.

Garment designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes: 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail: $299.95

Call the store at (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last.
We ship internationally.
We thank you for your support.
You are the champions, my friends 😉

Mister Freedom® MFSC American Sportswear Fall 2011 (Part 2): Speedway Piqué Jeans

What a poser

The second installment of Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “AMERICAN SPORTSWEAR” Collection is in: Introducing the SPEEDWAY pique, made in USA.

Often mistaken for chinos/khakis on those late 50’s~60’s off set photos of the Hollywood cool cats, here is Mister Freedom®’s interpretation of those ‘off white jeans’.
For an old school look, we don’t recommend the modern “stacking” effect at the ankle. Length can easily be shorten (by your favorite local tailor) since we used a single stitch for the bottom hem, not chainstitch.
McQueen 1966 (Twentieth Century Fox) Newman Motorcycle

PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern. Slimmer silhouette (NOT skinnies/girl friend’s jeans though…)
FABRIC: All cotton piqué (bedford cord), 10 Oz. Fabric milled in Japan.
Two colour option: Cream and Black
* Double snap tab waist band, concealed snaps. No belt loops
* Functional cinch back strap to adjust waist (up to 2 1/2  inches adjustment)
* Double lapseam chainstitch leg construction (outer and inner seam.)
* New Old Stock pocket bags: 1960’s all cotton stripe ticking twill
* Zipper fly, brass “Gripper Zipper”
* “M” stitched back pockets
* 100% cotton tonal thread stitching
Minimal waist shrinkage of this pique fabric, shrinks mostly in length (about one inch)
I am between a 31~32 and wear a Waist 32 in the Speedway, a bit cinched in the back. I have washed my speedways, regular cycle and machine dried them before original wear.
Measurements in chart below are to the best of our abilities, but vill vary according to rinse/drying method/subsequent wear… and whoever takes them!

Speedway Sizing Chart

Garment designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

Available RAW/unwashed
Colour: Cream or Black
Tagged Sizes
28×33, 29x33, 30×33, 31×33, 32×33, 33x33, 34×33, 36×33, 38×33
Retail $279.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support.

Mister Freedom® x SugarCane MFSC Fall 2011 (Part 4): Chemise “Hirondelle”


MFSC Django chemise hirondelle

Introducing the fourth and final installement of MFSC Apache collectionLa Chemise Hirondelle

Inspired by early European shirting, here is a fine lightweight moleskine pull-over shirt for Fall, which wraps up our French escapade this season.
The name hirondelle (swallow) is a reference to a collar shape typical of 1930’s french shirting. Longer and pointier than its American ‘wing tip’ collar counterpart.
It also refers to the bird often seen tattooed on the French Apaches skins. The hirondelle symbolized freedom and escape.

PATTERN: All original MFSC pattern and fit. Pull-over style.
FABRICS: Three options
a) BLACK moleskine: Lightweight 100% cotton moleskine, 5 oz., the French choice of workwear and outdoor washable fabric since the 1800′s. Moleskine is a tightly woven twill, with a napped surface. The close weave makes this fabric almost windproof, warm, insulating and very durable. It performs much better than denim does, but is very expensive to mill. Our 100% cotton moleskine is milled in Japan, to the specs of a 1900s swatch from our archives.
b) CREAM moleskine
c) INDIGO métisse cotton twill:
9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light… Milled in Japan in limited batch.
This option is the same fabric the veste ouvrier is made of, so it will fade to this with wear.
* Back and cuffs shearing
* Placket tab to secure to trousers waist button.
* Rare vintage 1920’s New Old Stock glass buttons from France.
* Skinny chin strap
* Longer back tail
* Scarf retaining collar loops
* Indigo popeline collar-stay piecing (or anything small you might want to conceal)
* Two original flap chest pockets
* High stitch count construction, tonal all cotton thread. French seams
* French style side gussets
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF®.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops of the Fall 2011 Collection.
Please recycle those boxes, they can be used for home storage of small items.
WASHING: All three options come RAW/unwashed.
Hand wash with care (or very gentle wash cycle), cold water, dryer OK.
Use no soap/detergent with the indigo métisse, and hand wash only when really needed, to maximize the beauty of natural fading.

LIMITED EDITION. Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes 37 (Small), 39 (Medium), 41 (Large), 43 (XLarge), 45(XXLarge)
Chemise Hirondelle MOLESKINE (black or cream): Retail $389.95
Chemise Hirondelle INDIGO METISSE: Retail $409.95

NOTE: The mixed photos of the ‘indigo métisse hirondelle’ are of my personal shirt, worn and washed several times over the course of one year or so. Production comes RAW and unwashed.

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com  to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support.