Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Gunslinger Denim Pantaloons, Indigo twill & Desert twill.
Here is our fourth installment of the “Men of the Frontier” journey, the denim “GUNSLINGER PANTALOONS”.
Borrowing from both the American West and the Old World, we have mixed European gentlemen’ trousers detailing with early workwear construction and fabrics.
The inspiration for those jeans came in part from this 1904 photo. This saloon scene showcases several interesting trousers styles worn by ranch hands at the turn of the Century. One of the cowboys (second from right) seems to be wearing denim, according to the cuffs showing the contrasting reverse of the fabric. A closer zoom reveals an obscure European trousers pattern, not a ‘classic’ five pocket type pants.
So we went with our own original trousers pattern, staying away from the more obvious Lee/Levi’s/Wrangler type work jeans back yoke piecing/pocketing. (As once mentioned in front of a Denim Industry audience, the genius iconic “501” must be the most actively milked cow in the jeans making racket… not a crowd pleasing statement.)
We had two different denim twill exclusively woven in Japan for this collection, both inspired by vintage swatches from our archives. One indigo denim with indigo back, and one white back unbleached natural denim. Both were milled in limited quantities, not the easiest nor cheapest stage of the making of those jeans.
Those jeans are also Made in Califonia, US of A 😉
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by both the New and the Old World. European type trousers tailoring mixed with work wear construction.
FABRIC: The Gunslinger Pantaloons come in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches.
a) MFSC Indigo denim twill: Dark Indigo warp x dark Indigo weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, 12.4 Oz., Solid white selvedge ID. A very rich dark indigo color, with purple hues, in and out.
b) MFSC Desert denim twill: Natural warp x White weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, 12.8 Oz., Solid white selvedge ID. This is not your typical off white twill. This fabric has a lot of texture, character, ring and slub.
DETAILS:
* Higher type rise, early work pants type silhouette.
* Selvedge outer seam.
* 100% cotton natural color sail cloth pocket bags and seat lining.
* Gun metal color donut button fly. Double button waist band closure and inner waist tab.
* Cinch back strap and selvedge gusset. NOS metal sharp prong buckle (we have sadly run out of our stock of these, so this is one of the last time we use them for production)
* Five wide belt loops, unbalanced positioning.
* Original pattern single back pocket. The pocket ‘bell shape’ and specific selvedge construction allows storage for larger items.
* Flat felled inseam and seat construction.
* Copper riveted back pocket and back strap.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the GUNSLINGER’S come in an old school cardboard box with original MF artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
Both denim options come RAW (un-washed). Both fabrics are un-sanforized and will shrink down to the same fit after several wash/soak/dry cycles.
The Desert denim (natural) shrinks ‘faster’ than the Indigo denim. I recommend doing an original cold soak and hung dry. See how it fits and take it from there. With rinsing/wearing, the fabrics will shrink/stretch back and forth for a while and settle eventually.
Because of the back gusset, the waist can expand 1 ¾ inch when the back strap is not cinched, quite useful around Turkey Day. The measurements on the chart below are done with the gusset opened, with more shrinkage to come.
I am about a true 31 waist, and wear a waist 30 in those. I have only done an original cold soak/no agitation/line dry with both pair, so there is some more shrinkage to come. The indigo pair looks a bit wider than the natural pair, but I’ll wait until a wash is really needed.
Do not just wash your indigo gunslinger’s in hope of fading them faster, wear them instead.
Click on chart below for measurements of the INDIGO Gunslinger’s (the measurements are similar for the Desert version):
DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the double indigo dyed yarn, bleeding is expected with the INDIGO denim twill, on BOTH sides of the fabric. You WILL get some color rubbing on other garments and body, legs and Tony Montana type sofas alike. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash, and overtime, your gunslinger’s will get an amazing patina inside AND out.
Garment designed and manufactured in California, USA by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition
Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes:
Waist 28 x L36
Waist 30 x L36
Waist 32 x L36
Waist 34 x L36
Waist 36 x L36
Waist 38 x L36
Retail $379.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com and from our brick & mortar store. Mail sales@misterfreedom.com with questions not answered above. We ship internationally.
Much obliged for your support.
Recommended reading and viewing:
* “The West“, a 1996 Stephen Ives/Ken Burns documentary
* “Jeans of the Old West” by Michael Harris
* “Saloons, Bars and Cigar Stores” by Roger E Kinslingbury
* DenimBro denim workwear research interactive forum
Here is the final installement (5 of 5) of Mister Freedom® latest Collection entitled “American Sportswear”. Introducing the CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans, Lot.44
Same drill than with the Ranch Blouse, we have selected some New Old Stock selvedge denim from our archives to make the Californian Lot.44
Cut and sew has been a challenge, as previously mentioned, but we are happy with the results. One “five pocket” pattern in about 35 different denim… 28” to 33” width old shuttle loom made selvedge denim, collected throughout years of warehouses digging. Origin Japan and USA. Click on scan below for approximate colors and selvedge IDs
The pattern of the Californian Lot.44 is very similar to that of the Californian Lot.54, with a few design modifications:
* PATTERN: Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950′s era blue jeans.
* FABRICS: The assorted New Old Stock selvedge denim limited edition is only available at the MF® Beverly Blvd location, and at “Bazar” (1108c Abbot Kinney Blvd.,Venice, CA 90291, USA, phone 310-314-2101).
* Lot.44 vs. Lot.54 DETAILS: The Lot.44 has an added back cinch strap, longer inseam, yellow “M” pocket and side stitching, different fabric pocket bags.
* POCKETING: 100% cotton NOS stripe ticking denim. Some bag bags are made with indigo/white plaid twill. Random.
* FIT: Based on the general silhouette/image of the “BRMC” blue jeans of the Wild Ones (1953). Traditional mid-rise, “tubular” silhouette legs, fit seat.
These blue jeans are NOT skinnies, as we don’t dig the ‘men in tights’ or “girlfriend’s jeans” thingy.
* CONSTRUCTION: All made in U.S.A. Five pockets style. Selvedge legs and button hole fly flap. Riveted back pockets with ‘zigzag flush’ stitching. Original “M” back pocket stitch design, securing inside all cotton twill backing.
* STITCHING: All 100% cotton colour thread. We are using an original MF 12 types of gauge/colour combination thread for each pair of jeans. Main colours are Orange/Yellow, non colorfast.
* TRIMS: Original Mister Freedom casted combo metal fly buttons, steel back. Unmarked copper flat top rivetting.
* LABELING: Handmade original MF® debossed natural cowhide leather patch on right back pocket. Cheeze cloth size labeling stitched in rear part of waist band.
* PACKAGING: In the USA, the Californian Lot.44 comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
* SHRINKAGE: All fabrics are RAW and unwashed. Due to the assorted denim, shrinkage is all over the place. Please refer to chart below, where we shrink tested some of the jeans (cold soak for about 30mn, no agitation. Turned imside out and machine dryed for about 20mn, until 80% dried). Measurements are approximate.
Please don’t BOIL your jeans, as you will alter the color of the denim and ruin the leather patch.
The Californian Lot.44 comes UN-WASHED and “oversized” so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER shrinkage (more or less).
Example: A tagged W32 x L36 “Californian”, off the shelf, actually measures 33” x 38” before wash. Some denim will shrink to approx. 32” x 36” after rinse/dry.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit, so you can size up or down.
WASHING: To each his own, but we recommend the “quick cold rinse, hang dry and wear when damp” method. Subsequent washing when REALLY needed, minimal detergent and hang dry.
Garment designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition.
The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.44 is available RAW/unwashed.
Available tagged Sizes:
W30 × L34
W31 × L36
W32 × L36
W33 × L36
W34 × L36
W36 × L36
W38 × L36
(see “Shrinkage” section above for the low-down)
Retail $289.95
Available here.
Please call (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com for more info.
Thank you for your support.
The evolution of one pair our Made in USA “Californian” Blue Jeans, after about 5 months of regular wear and abuse…
Those jeans started being worn raw for a few days. Then a quick cold soak for 10 minutes, hung dry and worn still damp.
Four washing cycles during the five months period, cold water, very minimal soap, turned inside-out, no dryer.
All the original specs here. Some sizes are SOLD OUT.
The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.54 is available RAW/unwashed.
Tagged Sizes 28×32, 29x32, 30×32, 31×32, 32×34, 33x34, 34×34, 36×34, 38×34. (see “Sizing” in the specs link for the low-down)
Retail $249.95
Call (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
The MF® CALIFORNIAN, long awaited-for MISTER FREEDOM® first five-pocket style blue jeans are in the house! All made in USA from American un-sanforized Dead Stock (NOS) indigo blue 12 oz. denim…
SPECS:
* Pattern: Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950’s era blue jeans.
* Fabric: New Old Stock American made selvedge indigo denim. White/red stripped selvedge ID. Un-sanforized. Approx. 12oz. square yard weight. Guaranteed to age and beautify with repeat wear.
* Pocketing: 100% cotton sturdy Bedford cord type woven NOS fabric. Natural un-bleached white.
* Fit: Based on the general silhouette/image of the “BRMC” blue jeans of the Wild Ones (1953). Traditional mid-rise, “tubular” silhouette legs, fit seat.
“Now, listen, ya don’t go any one special place. That’s cornball style…Ya just go (SNAP)”
* Construction: All made in U.S.A. Five pockets style. Selvedge legs and button hole fly flap. Top back pockets covered riveting and ‘zigzag flush’ reinforcement. Original “M” back pocket stitch design, securing inside all cotton twill backing.
* Stitching: All 100% cotton colour thread. We are using an original MF 12 types of gauge/colour combination thread for each pair of jeans. Main colours are Orange/Yellow/White, non colorfast.
* Trims: Original Mister Freedom casted combo metal fly buttons, steel back. Unmarked copper flat top rivetting.
* Labeling: Handmade original MF® debossed natural cowhide leather patch on right back pocket. Cheeze cloth size labeling stitched in rear part of waist band.
* Shrinkage: 8% or less, with minimal shrinkage with cold rinse/hang dry (recommended) and maximum shrinkage with hot wash/full dryer cycle. As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur depending on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
* Sizing: The Californian comes UN-WASHED and “oversized” so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER shrinkage.
Example: A tagged W32 x L34 “Californian”, off the shelf, actually measures 33” x 36” before wash. They will shrink to approx. 32” x 34” after rinse/dry.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear from a W30 to W32 depending on my mood/style of the pants (I have a W30 on the photo, about 2 months wear.)
NOTE:
1) On length:
To avoid the effect of the “accordion” legs, typical of the Japanese denim replica silhouettes, we chose graduated length for the Californian. Many pairs of vintage denim are often seen worn “as found”, ie. sometimes borderline too short on taller individuals. We prefer this to the ‘endless’ legs characteristic of all new denim production.
If the jeans are too long, cuff them (sloppy rolls or folded) if you like cuffs. If they are just or a tad too short, a narrow single fold cuff still looks cool imo. Just wear good footwear!
If they look like bermudas on you, then it’s not meant to be…
2) On washing:
We recommend the “quick cold rinse, hang dry and wear when damp” method. Subsequent washing when REALLY needed, minimal detergent and hang dry.
The “wear ’em raw” method is great too (makes for amazing wear), but you might want to size down (if you are a measured waist 30”, wear a tagged W29), and never hit water! Even when worn raw, denim will shrink/stretch with heat/tension, so your jeans will adapt to your body over time.
3) Leather patch:
The debossed MF® pocket leather patch will lose its details/colour with washing in warm/hot water (for those of you who insist on hot soaking their jeans…) It will dry out and crack overtime, and is intended to do so.
The Mister Freedom® “CALIFORNIAN” Lot.54 is available RAW/unwashed.
Tagged Sizes
W28 × L32 SOLD OUT
W29 × L32 SOLD OUT
W30 × L32 SOLD OUT
W31 × L32 SOLD OUT
W32 × L34 SOLD OUT
W33 × L34 SOLD OUT
W34 × L34 SOLD OUT
W36 × L34 SOLD OUT
W38 × L34 SOLD OUT
(see “Sizing” section above for the low-down)
Retail $249.95
Call (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
MFSC VS-09, VEST, DENIM, SIGNAL (Raw)
Original price: $ 399.95
Discounted price: $ 299.95
(Did I mentionned the free bowl of soup?)
Call (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com for size availability and to order yours. We ship internationally.
 My VS-09 (The vest featured on the above photo is NFS. It was worn on-off for about 6 months, with about 3 cold washes)
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