Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot54 Reissue (Lot54R), NOS Cone Mills XUV Selvedge denim, 12 Oz.
mfsc SS2024 SPORTSMAN Catalog
Made in USA
They are back!
The anticipated reissue of our very first MF® CALIFORNIAN blue jeans, an original vintage-inspired five-pocket pattern initially released in 2010, is finally out.
Same classic straight leg cut with traditional mid-rise, same trims, and same vintage New Old Stock (NOS) denim fabric.
We called that cut “Lot54” at the time, a nod the general silhouette/image of the “BRMC” blue jeans featured in The Wild One (1954).
To quote Johnny Stabler, “Now, listen, ya don’t go any one special place. That’s cornball style…Ya just go.” Snap.
Our revived traditional five-pocket design was obviously heavily-inspired by a combo of old Lee®/Levis®/Wrangler® classics, twisted MF® style.
The pair of Lot54 I wore at the time — I had much fewer MF® five-pocket options to grab from the closet back in 2010, so I went hard on those — is one of my favorite in my stash of Californians today. I save them for special occasions, and affectionately call them my “Sunday jeans”. That splash of red paint on the right leg is from the original MF® HQ facade facelift…
After much hunting around in local LA warehouses, we were lucky enough to score some forgotten yardage of the exact same Cone Mills selvedge denim of the original Lot54s, a coded “XUV” 12 Oz. indigo denim twill milled by Cone’s White Oak factory in Greensboro, North Carolina, when it was still operating. After 112 years of loyal service to the Denim and Fashion Industry, that facility notoriously closed in 2017, victim of corporate greed and offshoring fueled by a global audience’s thirst for cheaper goods. Whayagonnado.
If you’re into a classic pair of selvedge jeans with an old school silhouette, cut from vintage NOS USA-milled denim, sewn in USA, and with promising fabric evo potential, the MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot54R (reissue) may not be a bad choice.
The Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot54R (reissue) are designed and made in California, CA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Cut from NOS Cone Mills premium selvedge denim milled in USA.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT54 cut features a traditional fit, classic mid-rise, with a straight leg for a 1950s-60s period vibe and silhouette.
FABRIC:
Fabric: New Old Stock Cone Mills “XUV” selvedge 3×1 indigo denim, 12 Oz., white with red line selvedge ID, milled in USA.
Pocketing: Classic NOS white 100% cotton twill.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern and fit.
* Classic mid-rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded patinaed silver tack buttons.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* Classic NOS cotton twill pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Natural cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket. Will age with normal wash/wear.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads used for construction (gauge and color combination.) Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge, to impress friends.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket, to further impress friends.
* Concealed back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bar-tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher, initial 2010 yellow edition (with unedited smoking’ Johnny!)
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.
SIZING/FIT:
The Californian Lot54R jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Machine spin dry and line dry, or drip dry.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to shape and set creases, then hang until fully dry.
The Lot54R are considered true-to-size. See our MF® Californian cut/fit references here.
At 5’7 ~145 Lbs., I opted for my current W30 waist size, for a snug waist and classic generous 1950s-60s leg.
I’m going un-hemmed and un-cuffed with these.
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. Please refer to our size chart and measuring method.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow belly button level, not bellow the hips.
CARE for your MF® denim jeans:
Wash when necessary, as with other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the jeans inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Note that boiling your jeans will turn the leather patch into instant beef jerky, and attaching a new patch on an already-mounted rear pocket is about as easy as wrangling a pack of feral jackrabbits.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024
 Me in front of the mirror, before leaving my hotel room at Pitti Uomo. Mister Freedom® ©2024 
Mister Freedom® Californian Lot64 VDL14, Vidalia Mills Black Selvedge Denim Twill, 14 Oz., milled in USA.
mfsc SS2024 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.
If I were a fashion blogger I would start with “One of the problems with classic black denim jeans is what to not pair them with…”
Instead, as illustration, below is a plethora of smashing MF® outfits, in all kinds of awkward poses and situations. Same black jeans, and too much time on my hands.
We acquired some very cool yardage of black selvedge denim for this project, with the simple intention of releasing an unpretentious, classic cut, home-grown pair of solid black Mister Freedom® Lot64 Californian.
Milled by Vidalia Specialty Mills in Vidalia, Louisiana, this black selvedge denim twill fabric has quite the historical background. The looms it was produced-on — a few restored vintage 1940s Draper X3 looms — were purchased sometime in 2017 from the iconic Cone Mills White Oak Plant by a North Carolina demolition contractor by the name of Will Dellinger (JW Demolition).
Familiar to all heritage denimheads as the American mill responsible for Levi’s® golden age good looks, Cone Mills folded its domestic operation in 2017, looking for greener pasture and off-shoring to China and Mexico.
The machines were in turn procured by Vidalia in 2019. Apparently 46 machines total.
Of note, Cone still has somewhat of its legit USA denim-producing legacy going strong thanks to the dedicated crew at Proximity Denims since 2021.
If the above chain of events sounds like a whole season of Dallas, it’s probably because the world of American Denim carries about the same amount of intrigue.
What is less plot-driven and more transparent is that the premium denim fabric of the Mister Freedom® Lot64 VDL14 is a black warp x black weft twill, 14 Oz., milled in Louisiana, and that our jeans are cut/sewn in California, USA, the combination of which is bound to make you look fabulous and feel fantastic for years to come. Dress ‘em up, dress ‘em down, go Jailhouse Rock or 30 Rock, these classic black jeans will tell the story you choose.
Please note that these Lot64 VDL14 run fuller in the leg than our typical Lot64s, with a silhouette closer to our Lot54. Be sure to read the sizing section and check the measurement chart, as some may decide to size down one inch from their usual Lot64 size.
The Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 are designed and made in California, CA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Cut from Vidalia Mills premium selvedge denim milled in USA.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT64 cut features a traditional fit, classic rise, with a slightly-tapered leg for a 1950s-60s period vibe.
FABRIC:
Fabric: 100% cotton black warp x black weft bull denim, 14 oz., white/red selvedge ID, milled in USA by Vidalia Mills on Cone Mills legacy Draper-X3 looms.
Pocketing: NOS 100% cotton canvas, rusty red color.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern and fit.
* Classic mid-rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded patinaed tack buttons, brass waist / silver fly combo.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS cotton canvas pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Black tea-core cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket. Will age with normal wash/wear.
* 100% cotton threads construction, black tonal stitching.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bar-tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher, black VDL14 edition.
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.
SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® Californian Lot64 VDL14 black denim jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Machine spin dry and line dry.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to shape and set creases (optional), then hang until fully dry.
The Mister Freedom® Lot64 VDL14 runs a full size larger than the tag and we recommend sizing down one full size from your normal waist size. Example: If you typically wear pants with a 32” inch waist, we recommend a size 31 in the MF® Lot64 VDL14.
See MF® Californian fit references here.
CL advice: At 5’7 ~145 Lbs., I opted to size down to a W29, for a snug waist and classic 1950s-60s silhouette.
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. Please refer to our size chart and measuring method.
CARE for your black denim jeans:
Wash when necessary, as with other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the jeans inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Note that boiling your jeans will turn the leather patch into instant beef jerky, and attaching a new patch on an already-mounted rear pocket is about as easy as wrangling a pack of feral jackrabbits.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024
 Mister Freedom® happy Awa-Ai family: worn Californian Lot64 and Campus Blouse, with new Lot674 ©2024 
 Mister Freedom® worn Californian Lot64 Awa-Ai with new Lot674 Awa-Ai ©2024  Mister Freedom® worn Californian Lot64 Awa-Ai with new Lot674 Awa-Ai ©2024  Mister Freedom® worn Californian Lot64 Awa-Ai with new Lot674 Awa-Ai ©2024 
Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot674, special AWA-AI fiber denim edition.
mfsc SS2024 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.
Following the recent FW2023 release of the Lot64 and matching Campus Blouse in a very special “Awa-ai” indigo denim twill — painstakingly developed in Japan by our friends at Sugar Cane Co —, we decided to also cut a few Californians Lot674 for SS2024.
How special this selvedge denim fabric is was discussed at length previously. This release is about the cut, one of our popular 1960s-vibe stove pipe silhouette, our slimmest tapered leg.
A straight-forward recap of all Mister Freedom® Californians five-pocket classic fits — Lot44, Lot54, Lot64, Lot74 and Lot674 — can be found here.
Below is an approximate side-by-side visual comparaison of 4 of those timeless silhouettes, in various denim fabrics released through the years. All Californians pictured are W30, some well-worn, some just rinsed, some hemmed etc…
I am wearing a W30 Californian Lot674 Awa-Ai for the photo, a bit too slim-looking for my taste, so I actually purchased a W31 with slightly more room in the leg. Just personal taste, and because I’ve probably watched too many old movies.
Note to denimheads: this Awa-Ai denim is pretty resilient and will require a bit of work to eventually show signs of natural wear. We recommend yard work — or similar outdoor activities — over couch surfing for quicker results. My Californian Lot64 Awa-Ai — same fabric, different cut — are slowly starting to show some “indigo action” after being worn on/off for a few months.
The Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot674 are designed and made in California, CA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Cut from premium SC Awa-ai fiber denim milled in Japan.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT674 cut features a traditional fit, classic rise, with a slim tapered leg for a 1960s period vibe.
FABRIC:
Sugar Cane Co “AWA-ai” fiber denim (blend of 70% cotton x 30% sugarcane fibers), 13 Oz., white/green line selvedge ID, dark indigo hue, dry, hairy and neppy, milled in Japan.
Pocketing: Fancy NOS 100% cotton twill, woven stripe (white pinstripe on navy blue background.)
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern and fit.
* Classic mid-rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded patinaed tack buttons, brass waist / silver fly combo.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* Fancy NOS stripe twill pocketing.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Natural cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket. Will age with normal wash/wear.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads used for construction (gauge and color combination.) Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bar-tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher, red “Sakura” edition.
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.
SIZING/FIT:
The Californian Lot674 AWA-Ai denim blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Machine spin dry and line dry.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to shape and set creases, then hang until fully dry.
These Lot674 Awa-ai Californians are considered true-to-size.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow belly button level, not bellow the hips.
I opted for a W31 in these (5’7 ~145 Lbs.), flood-length hemmed, for a classic 1960s silhouette.
The waist size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. Please refer to our size chart and measuring method.
CARE for your Awa-ai denim jeans:
Wash when necessary, as with other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the jeans inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, and the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot-cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024
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