For FW2021, we are venturing into the world of vintage athletic wear with a colorful collection entitled PODIUM, the latest seasonal chapter of our long-standing collaboration with our friends at Sugar Cane Co (Toyo Enterprise).
Drawing inspiration from old school 1940s to 1980s activewear, from classic Track & Field uniforms and old-school PE (Physical education) gear or casual gym clothes, we blended timeless American and European influences in the Mister Freedom® mixer, and designed a no-nonsense selection of versatile sports-related gear. Taking the usual liberties with period fashions and fits, yet sticking to timeless aesthetics for authenticity, the eclectic styles in our PODIUM line-up will easily incorporate into any classic “heritage” wardrobe or gym locker. Practical and durable vintage-inspired gear for working out, or simply hanging out.
Our MERCURY Jacket draws its inspiration from the dynamic world of 70s-80s running clothes, vintage hi-tech “windsuits” and casual active sportswear. Check out old copies of Runner’s World Magazine ads for reference.
Light weight, unlined body, two-tone panelling and raglan sleeves, ventilation back yoke with athletic “shimmel” mesh shoulder lining for air circulation, 70s style plastic zippers with colorful tape, zip-up high collar, practical adjustable snap cuffs… all blend-in for an old school running jacket style, the MF® MERCURY.
Regarding our choice of moniker, wing-capped Mercury was messenger of the gods in roman mythology, recalling the wing-footed messenger god Hermes of Greek mythology. See Champion’s “running man” 1940s-50s early labels for a similar reference.
For the body material, we decided to go vintage high-tech performance, and opted for an all cotton weatherproof poplin fabric milled in Japan. The textile is advertised as “super-high density 100% cotton fabric with great moisture permeability and waterproof property”. Apparently, the fabric prevents water from getting through (once the yarns are soaked and expend), yet allows sweat to evaporate… Don’t ask me, I just work here.
It is “weatherproof” rather than waterproof (will withstand light rain but is not fully waterproof), yet windproof, and with good breathability.
The mid-weight fabric (about 7 Oz.) has a crispy dry hand similar to traditional tightly-woven 100% cotton poplins, and is ridiculously good-looking. It works perfectly as body material for our purpose, a vintage-inspired windbreaker or running jacket.
For construction, we opted for clean seams inside and out, so the MF® MERCURY features flat-felled (chainstitch) throughout, not the common overlocked seams.
Our choice of recurring visible branding throughout the PODIUM collection is the discreet signature maritime signal flags logo, previously-designed for the Marina Shirt as a chest patch. Absolutely no reference to the flag of Scotland, the diagonal white cross on blue background pennant is international naval code for Mike, the letter “M”, and the red diamond on white background is Foxtrot, the letter “F”.
The MF® MERCURY Running Jacket is designed in California and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, weatherproof cotton poplin fabric milled in Japan.
SPECS
FABRIC:
All-weather fabric, super-high density 100% cotton poplin, about 7 Oz., water-resistant (not waterproof), windproof, breathable. Light weight, dry hand. Milled in Japan.
Color combo options:
a) Arctic white x Navy Blue (with red mesh)
b) Olive Green x Navy Blue (with orange mesh)
DETAILS: * Original mfsc design inspired by vintage high-tech 70s-80s active wear and running clothes.
* Unlined, streamlined.
* Water-resistant and windproof.
* Raglan sleeves.
* Two-tone contrast paneling.
* Vented back yoke with partial mesh lining for air circulation.
* Full zip front closure, 1970s-style plastic zipper with contrasting tape and swivel pulls.
* Zip-up high collar for throat protection, with zipper pull cover.
* Two lower pockets, zip closure.
* Adjustable snap cuffs, original mfsc-branded metal painted snaps.
* Flat-felled (chainstitch) construction throughout.
* Original mfsc “Podium” woven rayon label.
* Designed in USA, made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The MERCURY Jacket comes raw (unwashed) and is ready-to-wear without any pre-treatment.
This jacket is considered true-to-size. I opted for my usual size in mfsc jacket, 38 (Medium). I’m about 5’7 , 145 lbs.
CARE: We recommends dry-cleaning (eco-friendly facility) when possible.
Alternatively, spot clean: brush off/sponge off dirt, sand and mud.
If full cleaning is necessary, and dry-cleaning impractical, machine wash on delicate: turn garment inside out, warm water, pure liquid soap (no harsh synthetic detergent, no bleach etc), rinse thoroughly (until all soap residue is removed).
Shape on hanger and hang dry.
For Fall 2021, we are releasing our classic Ranch Blouse and Californian Lot.64 in a special solid black denim twill, developed and milled in Japan by Sugarcane Co.
This premium mid-weight 13 Oz. selvedge denim combines a black sulfur-dyed warp yarn (fabric face) with a black sulfur-dyed weft (fabric reverse), and is produced on traditional shuttle looms. The contrasting selvedge (white with red line) adds a fancy touch to the solid black denim twill.
Sulfur dyes are notorious for their lower colorfastness (resistance to fading), when compared to other dyeing methods, such as pigment dyes for instance. Sulfur-dyed fabric tends to naturally fade “faster”. Over time, with extensive wear and normal laundry routine, the black yarns will fade to dark/medium/light grey (eventually to white). The resulting attractive patina is reminiscent of well-worn traditional indigo-dyed denim, “whiskers” and all. See some faded Sugar Cane’s sulfur-dyed specimen here.
For Fall 2021, our original Ranch blouse design remains pretty much unchanged from its 2010 inception, A-1 style collar, unique slanted pockets on lower chest with single pocket flap, “M” stitching on pockets, pleated front with signature arrowhead darts stitching, 30s-style buckle back etc…
For the matching Californians, we opted for our popular Lot.64 cut – slightly tapered leg, mid rise, traditional silhouette – but decided to spice up the traditional five-pocket pattern by introducing a western-wear modification. The Lot.64-OTL features “frogmouth” type pocket openings, sometimes referred-to as western pockets, a detail often seen on early riding apparel. We have played around with this style in the past, with mfsc oldies such as the MF® Vaqueros,Buckaroos, Conductor Slacks, and most recently the Deputy Britches, from which the pocket opening pattern was borrowed and adapted to our new Californian “Outlaw”. This western touch is subtle, but adds a cool twist to the classic five-pocket jeans, making the Lot.64-OTL the latest member of our Californian family.
Worn as a matching set, paired with indigo-dyed denim tops and bottoms, vintage pieces or contemporary heritage-style sportswear, this black denim ensemble is pretty versatile and easy to incorporate into a classic wardrobe.
The black sulfur-dyed selvedge denim Ranch Blouse and Californian LOT.64-OTL (available separately) are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, from denim fabric milled in Japan.
SPECS FABRIC: Mid-weight 13 Oz. solid black denim twill, sulfur-dyed warp x sulfur-dyed weft, selvedge (white with red line ID), 100% cotton, milled in Japan on traditional shuttle looms.
FACING (collar lining, pocket flap, pocket bags): New Old Stock (NOS) 3×1 denim, dark indigo, 100% cotton.
FW2021 RANCH BLOUSE, black sulfur-dyed denim edition: DETAILS: * All original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by vintage trucker-style denim work jackets. * Early round-type collar, A-1 style. * Vintage boxy but slim silhouette. * Pleated front with original MF® signature arrowhead dart stitching. * Original lower chest double slanted pockets with “M” branding stitching, single pocket flap. * Selvedge front panel fold. * Contrast NOS 3×1 denim facing for collar and pocket flap. * Brass cast MF® branded tack buttons. * Buckle back, concealed selvedge strap, adjustable, riveted. * Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked, leather washer. * Chainstitch construction, tonal dark navy blue thread, 100% cotton. * Original mfsc printed “Buckaroo” cloth label. * Made in USA
SIZING FIT: The black sulfur-dyed Ranch Blouse comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.
Wear briefly while still damp to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
I wear my usual Ranch Blouse size in this black sulfur-dyed edition, a cold-soaked 38. I’m about 5’7 , 145 lbs.
FW2021 CALIFORNIAN “Outlaw” Lot.64-OTL, black sulfur-dyed denim edition: DETAILS: * Original Mister Freedom® classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern. * Western-style “Frogmouth” front pocket opening pattern. * Button fly, combination of brass/silver original MF® branded metal cast waist/fly tack buttons. * Selvedge leg outseam. * NOS 3×1 denim pocket bags. * MF® original “M” branding stitch design on rear pockets. * MF® branded black tea-core leather patch on rear pocket. * Black tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread, gauge combination. * Coin pocket with concealed selvedge. * Selvedge button hole fly placket. * Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement bar tack stitching. * Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement. * Original MF® paper pocket flasher (ivory white). * Made in USA
SIZING/FIT: The black sulfur-dyed Californian Lot.64-OTL jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.
Wear briefly while still damp to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I opted for a W31 with this model (my current waist size in MF® Californians), for a classic silhouette with a snug waist, comfortable top block and straight leg. I’m about 5’7 , 145 lbs. As with all denim twills, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit. DENIM CARE: Treat this black sulfur-dyed denim twill as you would premium indigo-dyed denim. Wash denim jeans/jacket sporadically, only when needed. Machine wash inside out to avoid marbling. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Wash separately from light-colored garments. Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Vintage 1950s McGregor wool shirt, fabric inspiration for the MF® Secoya “McG”
Vintage 1950s McGregor wool shirt.
Mister Freedom® SECOYA Shirt, “McG” plaid heavy flannel FW2021 edition. mfsc Surplus Catalog. Made in Japan.
The SECOYA pattern combines two vintage garments, a rare 1930’s pull-over chin-strap work chambray with no label, and a 1940’s STURDY OAKwork chambray with elaborate “Double-Panel” construction. The defunct STURDY OAK label, the workwear division of Sears, Roebuck & Co, produced its famous “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern, often complimented with “Ventilation Eyelets”. Other bygone mail-order catalog companies such as Montgomery Ward & Co, Spiegel or JCPenney also offered their versions in the 1940’s -50’s, all full open button front shirts. We thought of combining the fancy “Double-Panel” pattern with a pull-over type shirt, and the MF® SECOYA was born. The term Secoya is Bad Hombre parlance for sequoia, a semantic nod to the vintage Sturdy Oak specimen that inspired this MF® pattern.
The “McG” is the third model of our SECOYA.
The original Mister Freedom® “SECOYA” pattern was introduced sometime during Spring 2019, and was initially released in a fine 3 Oz. indigo yarn “NTC” chambray, a fabric familiar to all mfsc OGs as it was the same indigo chambray used for the 2008 “Naval Clothing Tailor” Utility Shirt. That chambray fabric ages quite gracefully.
Well-worn MF® SECOYA Shirt, NCT chambray, 2019.
Inspired by “Big Mac” or “Five Bros” type heavy flannel work shirts, the follow-up model was the SECOYA “Winter King”, 8.25 Oz. indigo x red woven plaid, released during FW2020.
For FW2021, we pulled the fabric inspiration off a vintage 1950s McGregor wool shirt from our archives. If we wanted to closely replicate the unusual turquoise & red yarns combo of the original plaid pattern, we decided to replace the wool yarns by 100% cotton yarns. Our friends at Toyo Enterprises painstakingly milled this outstanding selvedge heavy flannel woven plaid for us in Japan. The SECOYA “McG” was born.
The “SECOYA” Double-Panel Ventilated Work Shirt, “McG” heavy flannel edition is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC: Vintage-inspired 100% cotton classic woven plaid heavy flannel, turquoise & red dominant yarns, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
DETAILS: * An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage 1930’s-1940’s classic American fancy chambray work shirts. * Pull-over style. * “Double-Back / Double-Shoulder Yoke / Double-Underarm” pattern. * Stitched ventilation Eyelets on underarm and back panels, green thread. * Selvedge side gussets. * Chin strap. * Natural poplin facing on front button placket/cuffs/chest pockets. * White corozo wood “cat-eyes” buttons. * Double chest pocketing, buttoned pockets. * Concealed inside chest pocket, featuring the fabric selvedge. * High-count 100% cotton tonal stitching, chainstitch construction. * Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” woven rayon label.
SIZING/FIT: The SECOYA “McG” heavy flannel Work Shirt comes raw/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold rinse/line dry. We recommend this usual protocol before wear:
Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation or one machine rinse cycle on delicate.
Washing machine spin dry.
Line dry. (No heat dryer)
We recommend wearing your usual mfsc shirting size, although I personally opted for a SMALL on the SECOYA heavy flannel. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/cold rinsed measurements. To reflect “real life” garment conditions, the shrink-tested shirts in the chart have been rinsed in a home washing machine, cold water, full spin cycle on delicate, and then line dried (no heat dryer.)
CARE: Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry. Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirt, indigo-covert plaid & brown dobby stripe FW2021 edition. mfsc Surplus Catalog. Made in Japan.
The all-original Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER is our spin on the traditional “western snap” shirt. The design features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes and arcuate panels. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.
The shirts buttons are painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts, initially featured on the 2013 MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.
FW2021 sees the return of the DUDE RANCHER, with two new distinct fabric additions to this list.
First is a rare selvedge 100% cotton woven plaid, combining indigo yarns, covert yarns (a.k.a. salt & pepper), and black yarns, in a sturdy, dry hand, 9 Oz. fabric.
The inspiration for this unusual yarn combo came from the check lining of a vintage 1940s French corduroy coat (in Velour d’Amiens). The lining was just too good not to be replicated as-is, so we had the textile experts at Toyo Enterprises painstakingly mill a selvedge rendition of it in Japan, woven on vintage traditional machinery.
The second option is a 10.25 Oz. dark brown Dobby Stripes brushed fabric, with a soft hand and cosy, wintery feel. The stripe pattern is subtle, and noticeable in the textured Dobby weave rather than from a contrasting color.
The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt “Indigo-Covert” and “Brown Dobby Stripes” are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC: Two options: a) Indigo-Covert plaid: Dry 100% cotton woven plaid, 9 Oz., combining indigo, covert (salt & pepper), and black yarns. Solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
b) Brown Dobby stripes: Soft hand brushed 100% cotton 10.25 Oz. dark brown Dobby Stripes fabric.
SPECS: * An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts and 1950s-60s dude ranch outfits. * Traditional western-wear arcuate front and back yokes. * Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern. * 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.) * Tonal stitching. * Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets. * Fancy diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch. * Vintage style selvedge side gussets. * Rounded shirt tails. * 100% cotton hi-count stitching. * Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: Both the “Indigo-Covert” and “Brown Dobby Stripes” DUDE RANCHER come RAW/unwashed. The shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Washing machine spin dry cycle.
Line dry. (No heat dryer)
We recommend wearing your usual mfsc shirting size, although I personally opted for a SMALL, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit, sizing down from my usual Medium in mfsc shirting. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
CARE: Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry. Wash with similarly-colored garments. Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.
Garments initially purchased directly from www.misterfreecdom.com tend to come raw/loomstate/unwashed (unless otherwise specified), because we refuse to indulge in industrial washing, its water waste and polluting consequences.
But we understand that fine-tuning sizing with raw garments can be a bit challenging at times, especially when cut from un-sanforized fabrics.
To facilitate things, we provide post-shrinkage measurements for all of our washable garments, available under each item’s Size Chart link.
Mister Freedom® garments are cut so that post-shrinkage measurements determine the actual tagged size. Some of our garments come oversized for that reason.
Our simple in-house shrinking process consists of a ~30mn cold soak/machine spin dry/line dry. Hot washing/heat drying are not recommended and may lead to excessive shrinkage/discoloration/damage etc…
In order to fine-tune the size that will best work for you, a good trick is to measure a garment of similar style that you own (and like the fit of), and match it to our Size Chart reflecting post-shrinkage measurements.
Photos above show how we go about measuring, following the initial soak/line dry routine: lay the garment atop a reliable metal ruler (cheap plastic measuring tapes tend to stretch over time), flatten out fabric wrinkles, fabric straight but not stretched/pulled, and follow above guidelines.
The Sizing/Fit tab under each garment will also provide insights on style/silhouette/fabric stretch/etc…
