Mister Freedom® “MERIDANA” Shirt, Indigo Linen & Oatmeal Chambray Hemp-Linen-Cotton, SS2020 mfsc “Yucatán” collection. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® “MERIDANA” Shirt, Indigo Linen & Oatmeal Chambray Hemp/Linen/Cotton (50/25/25).
SS2020 mfsc YUCATÁN Collection.
Made in Japan.

Visitors of the ol’ MF® pile o’ rags know they can always count on a curated vintage selection of “South of The Border” textiles and garb from the Americas, like hand-woven Guatemalan huipiles, embroidered campesina blouses, vegetable-dye wool Mexican serapes, Caribbean-print tourist shirts… and, of course, old Guayaberas. The rare vintage specimen we score get snapped-up quite quickly at our store, and I always have my radar on while rag picking. I can’t pass in front of a rack of used, contemporary shortsleeved poly-cotton Guayaberas (a common feature of California ‘vintage’ stores and markets) without scoping the selection for an OG, an abuelo, an elusive all-cotton 50’s-60’s hidden specimen! It’s always a thrill when one pops-up, and a ¡Caramba! usually follows.

As with most iconic designs rooted in 19th Century traditional clothing, old folklore and history, the Guayabera’s tale remains unclear even for costume scholars. Its disputed origins are found in Cuba (a Spanish military garment was apparently called Guayabera, and the Guayabana was sported by guava farmers…), the Dominican Republic (the traditional chacabana), Spain, and Mexico via the Philippines (the barong shirt)…
The HistoryMiami Museum held an exhibition in 2012, with research leading to interesting conjectures and displayed artifacts.

In Mexico, the style is sometimes referred to as camiseta de Yucatán (Yucatán shirt), making it quite an inevitable fitting candidate for one of our Mister Freedom® SS2020 mfsc line-up, a capsule collection called Yucatán, initially introduced during Spring 2019.

The design of our shirt is heavily inspired by a vintage 1950’s specimen from our archives, sporting an obscure “Meridana” label that read: “Hecho en Mexico, Merida, Yuc.” That original white cotton shirt (made in Mérida, capital city of Yucatán State, Mexico) had all the bells and whistle of traditional Guayaberas: the characteristic four patch pockets, front and back tiny pleats (alforza), arcuate shoulder and bottom yoke, side vents, and enough decorative buttons to set-up a notion store.

On a side costume history note, it is believed that the famous pointy “western yoke” familiar to all western-wear aficionados actually finds its origin in the guayabera shirts allegedly sported by 1800’s Mexican vaqueros and rancheros, whose horsemanship, cultural heritage, and style are known to have influenced the American cowboy. If this is true, the arcuate is more likely to have come from Spain, as the scalloped yoke is not an uncommon feature of vintage European clothing from the period.

Back to our Guayabera. If we kept the overall vibe and essence of that vintage shirt for our humble fashion interpretation, we decided to replace the tight rows of stitched vertical pleats (called alforza, and by the intricacy of which the status of quality tailoring traditionally depends) by appliqué panels, racing-style, respectfully leaving the title of “King of the Guayabera” to Señor Ramón Puig, while we stick to the dune buggy fever flavor of our theme.
We added a 1950’s style “loop” collar, no top stitch, typical of early models and classic open collar mid-century sport shirts.

For front closure, we tried sourcing-out the classic Mexican “souvenir shirts” oblong grooved buttons, but to no avail. Couldn’t even figure-out what they are called. So we had a limited batch custom-made and replicated from a vintage specimen, opting for actual ox bone material instead of the usual plastic. As these have to be attached by hand, not machine, they might have to be re-stitched occasionally, a minor operation accessible to anyone who can thread a needle, not a bad skill to acquire for anyone who finds benefits in prolonging the life of a garment, rather than discarding it.
Our MERIDANA would be good practice over time, as it features twenty-eight (!) buttons, a combination of two styles: the oblong hand-sewn ones aforementioned, and a vintage 1930’s new old stock model of Portuguese manufacture from our archives, also made from ox bone. We still had a few boxes from our 2012 Prairie Shirt production…

The fabrics we opted for are new to the world of traditional Guayaberas, as far as we know. We are introducing our MERIDANA in a beautiful indigo-dyed fine linen, quite similar to the fabric of the MF® Liquette M35. The second option is a métisse oatmeal selvedge selvedge chambray, a fancy mid-weight blend of 50% hemp, 25% linen and 25% cotton. Both fabrics drape very differently, but have the classic crispiness and wrinkly quality associated with linen/hemp fibers.

Style-wise, these untucked tropical shirts are quite versatile. Our MERIDANA can be paired with dressy gents’ trousers, cool Californian colored jeans or blue jeans, chinos, vintage slacks… eventually complimented by a pair of huaraches (the traditional Mexican ones, not the made-in-China Swoosh brand stuff) or Spanish/French espadrilles. And a Panama hat for good measure.
Visual inspiration abound, the classic 1956 shots of Papa Hemingway with buddy Gary Cooper in Cuba, Phil Stern’s photos of the Duke in Acapulco circa 1947 (some with Cooper again, apparently sold on the style!), and countless other old snapshots of cool dudes.

The mfsc MERIDANA is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co., from fabrics milled in Japan.

GARMENT SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by traditional Guayabera-type shirts and other vintage tropical garments, revisited with a 1940’s-1950’s twist.

FABRICS:
Two distinct options:
a) Dark indigo-dyed plain weave, 100% linen, lightweight and breezy, milled in Japan.
Note: This indigo fabric is prone to “bleeding” (color transfer) and is very light sensitive. The indigo color will rub-off on lighter colored fabrics, skin, and furniture. Exposure to the sun will rapidly alter the indigo blue hues, and the shirt should be stored away from sunlight.
b) Mid-weight métisse oatmeal selvedge chambray, very slubby blend of 50% hemp, 25% linen and 25% cotton, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Vintage-style tailoring and styling.
* Elegant long-sleeve model.
* Four front patch pockets.
* Vertical stitched-down paneling strips, racing style, front and back.
* Buttoned side slits.
* Attractive arcuate shoulder yoke, bottom hem, and pocket yokes.
* Genuine ox-bone Mexican “souvenir shirt” traditional oblong buttons.
* Decorative vintage NOS ox-bone 1920’s classic buttons.
* Combination of 28 functional and decorative buttons.
* 1950’s-style “loop” open collar pattern, no top stitch.
* Original mfsc “YUCATÁN” woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
Both fabric options of the MF® “MERIDANA” come raw/un-rinsed.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
* Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
* Spin dry and line dry (not in full sun for the indigo version.)

Both versions will fit approximately the same following the above procedure. Both indigo linen and oatmeal chambray fabrics are so distinct in texture, weight and drape that they will feel quite different, but technically fit the same. The chambray tends to have a bit more mechanical stretch, due to the looser weave. The classic crispiness and wrinkly quality associated with linen/hemp fibers is expected and normal.
I am usually a Medium (15½) in mfsc shirting, and I opted for a comfortable Medium in both fabric options. The fit picture features a Medium in both fabrics after one cold soak/line dry, and a bit more shrinkage and fabric torque/puckering might be expected down the line. 

We recommend matching the measurements below to a shirt you own, of similar untuck and comfortable style, in order to figure which size will work best for you. For reference, this is how we measure our garments.
When using a cloth measuring tape, make sure the tape has not stretched overtime and is accurate.

CARE:
Launder when needed.
a) Indigo linen model: Fully un-button before laundering. Treat as a delicate fancy shirt. Hand wash recommenced, or machine wash on gentle cycle, cold water, minimum eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Attractive patina will potentially develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Note: This indigo fabric is prone to “bleeding” (color transfer) and is very light sensitive. The indigo color will rub-off on lighter colored fabrics, skin, and furniture. Exposure to the sun will rapidly alter the indigo blue hues, and the shirt should be stored away from sunlight.
b) Oatmeal hemp chambray model: Fully un-button before laundering. Treat as a delicate fancy shirt. Hand wash recommenced, or machine wash on gentle cycle, cold water, minimum eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
14½ (Small)
15½ (Medium)
16½ (Large)
17½ (X-Large)
18½ (XX-Large)

Available from our Los Angeles brick & mortar HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support, and stay safe.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE and CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 “ICE-BLU” selvedge denim edition, SS2020 mfsc “Yucatán” collection. Made in USA.

 

 

 

 

Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse and Californian Lot.674, “ICE-BLU” selvedge denim edition.
mfsc SS2020 “YUCATÁN” collection.
Made in USA.

On October 18, 1956, Rock’n’Roll pioneer Gene Vincent and his wild band of musical geniuses known as “The Blue Caps” recorded the savage “Red Blue Jeans and a Pony Tail”…

Colored denim made its way to the forefront of fashion for casual wear suppliers and westernwear brands in the 1950’s. By the next decade, the catalogs of the “Big Three” (aka Lee®, Levi’s®, Wrangler®) were all spiced-up with a range of colorful models, alongside the traditional indigo blue utilitarian dungaree offerings.
Lee® had ventured into indigo denim alternatives as early as 1958 with their iconic “Westweave” cotton (aka satin) Westerner 100-J, made available in off-white, light blue, brown and black. This was bringing a city feel to ranch wear, with dress-up options for denimed-out cowboys.
Wrangler Blue Bell® had the 22MJZ jacket (Men Jacket Zipper) and matching 11MWZ jeans (Men Western Zipper) in a variety of colors: off-white, light blue, red, black…
Levi’s also had its share of colored fabric options in trucker jackets with matching bottoms, like the popular pique models (941 series), satin models (940 series), and twill models (840 series). All these groovy alternatives were to prove very popular with the youth and in-crowd, becoming favorites on campus, movie sets and city streets alike.

Our Mister Freedom® interpretation of vintage colored denims draws from all the above classics. Sometime in 2019, we reached-out to our friends and textile experts at Toyo Enterprise and finally developed a long-desired light indigo blue selvedge denim. This was quite an unusual request for Sugar Cane’s network of fabric mills, as “heritage” makers tended to mostly focus on ounceage challenges and dark indigoes. One thankfully took-on the task and delivered.
Our 12 Oz. “ICE-BLU” denim twill features a sky blue indigo warp and ecru weft, solid white selvedge, with an attractive overall appearance somewhat reminiscent of our 2012 Hacendado “Baja Denim” fabric.

The two candidates to make the first cut with that original “ICE-BLU” denim are the staple MF® Ranch Blouse and Californian jeans. We opted for the Lot.674 pattern, for its early 1960’s vibe and slim and lean cut, balanced with the Ranch Blouse’s earlier western-wear influences.
Both are of course available for purchase separately. For the brave, the “ICE-BLU” denim combo will be quite the stylish statement, guaranteed to turn more heads than a freeway pile-up. For the Texas Tuxedo-shy, mixing-up either top or bottom with traditional darker denim might be the ticket. Either way, these two pieces are quite versatile for anyone with a sense of style anchored in old classics.
We opted for ivory white contrast stitching, a choice also inspired by 1950’s vintage colored denim specimen.

We are quite fond of this brand new fabric around here, so please forgive the upcoming avalanche of IG posts! Note that we are offering the Lot.764 in select odd sizes too (29, 31, 33), to better accommodate your target fit and desired silhouette. The “ICE-BLU” Ranch Blouse also comes in a rare size 32 (double extra small), for smaller ladies into the boys’ jacket look.

The “ICE-BLU” Ranch Blouse and Californian LOT.674 (available separately) are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from denim fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS
Fabric:
12 Oz. “ICE-BLU” Denim, light indigo blue warp x ecru weft, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Pocketing/facing: sturdy NOS white/navy gingham, 100% cotton.

“ICE-BLU” RANCH BLOUSE:

DETAILS:
* MF® “Uncle Sam” type collar pattern.
* ‘Vintage’ boxy but trim silhouette.
* Pleated front with original MF® arrowhead dart stitching.
* Original MF® “M” stitching on chest pockets.
* Single pocket flap.
* Selvedge front panel fold.
* NOS white/navy gingham fabric facing for collar and pocket flap.
* “Silver” cast MF® branded tack buttons.
* Buckle back, concealed selvedge strap, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked hardware.
* Subtly contrasting ivory white stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Original mfsc printed “Buckaroo” cloth label.
* Made in USA

SIZING FIT:
The “ICE-BLU” Ranch Blouse comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

I wear my usual Ranch Blouse size in this “ICE-BLU” edition, a cold-soaked 38. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

CHART

Available Raw/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
32 XX-small
34 X-small
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large

 

“ICE-BLU” CALIFORNIAN Lot.674:

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern.
* Button fly.
* Original MF® branded “silver” metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS white/navy gingham fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* MF® branded natural veg-tan leather patch on rear pocket.
* Subtly contrasting ivory white stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement bartack stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper “ICE-BLU” pocket flasher (sky blue).
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The “ICE-BLU” Californian LOT.674 blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

The “ICE BLUE” Californian Lot.674 are true-to-size, with the usual “vanity sizing” standard in the industry.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. (Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow the belly button, not bellow the hips.)
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I opted for a W31 in the Lot.674 “ICE BLUE”, which tends to be my size of choice for the MF® style of 1960’s slim jeans patterns, such as our popular SpeedwaysMalibu’sLot.74 and Lot.674 models.

On cuffing: When playing around with period “flood length” à-la McQueen, rather than rolled cuffs or modern unsightly stacking, the Lot.674 has a definite sixties vibe silhouette.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

CARE:
Wash when necessary. We recommend turning garment inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Available RAW/unwashed.
Sizes (W is for Waist, measured in inches.)
29
30
31
32
33
34
36

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® SCRAMBLER Jacket, indigo poplin & tartan edition, mfsc “YUCATÁN” SS2020 collection. Made in Japan.

 

Mister Freedom® SCRAMBLER Jacket, tartan & indigo poplin edition.
SS2020 mfsc “YUCATÁN” collection x “SURPLUS” catalog.
Made in Japan.

In the footsteps of our Mulholland Master and Drizzle King, we’re back to Albion with the Mister Freedom® x Sugarcane SCRAMBLER, our twist on another timeless British wardrobe essential, often referred-to as the Harrington jacket.
That windbreaker style allegedly spurred out of Manchester’s rainwear industry in the mid 1930s, when a well-established local cotton mill took on the task of designing a practical-yet-stylish sport jacket optimized for golf swings, and the Rainy City’s legendary constant drizzle. The Baracuta® G-9 was born, and the year was 1937.
Another account of the story points to British luxury menswear Grenfell® as the originator of the style, also sometime in the 1930s.
The resulting innovative waist-length garment featured a weatherproof cotton shell, wool knit waistband and trims, dog-ear stand collar, zipper-fastener front, vent back yoke for air circulation, slanted flap pockets, and the iconic traditional tartan lining signature. Combining British swagger with contemporary menswear novelty, the style caught on and soon jumped the pond.
The rest is history, written by three generations of fashionable adopters, from conservative golf enthusiasts to on and off-duty silver screen legends, from unassuming grown-ups to pop culture icons, and from rebelling youth tribes to preppy “Ivy League” crowds.

I have personally never seen such early versions (1930s), especially with that type of collar, but one can assume that the initial design/specs evolved over the years. It was common for makers at the time to claim trademark of both the garment’s original pattern and its exclusive fabric as one model. This makes figuring-out “who was first” often open to discussion. The garment industry is a bit more of a lawless jungle nowadays, with “who’s gonna cash in” the main concern.

As a side note, the Harrington’s legacy has included myriads of interpretations and imitations, but not all golf jackets (or swing tops, as they are known in Japan) are patterned after the British original. Elvis apparently did sport a beige Baracuta in “King Creole” (1956), but there is some confusion regarding James Dean flashing a red one in “Rebel without a Cause” (1955). Jim Stark’s windbreaker was more likely a McGregor or Bud Bermao of a completely different style, as evidenced by its pointy collar and waistband pattern. Rebel’s iconic jacket was no G-9. We briefly discussed this first-world issue in a previous post introducing our red Breezer windbreaker.

Regardless, the Mister Freedom® SCRAMBLER is definitely a (respectful and fully-credited) spin on the classic and popular British models. We kept the typical 1960s style double-button stand collar, but spiced things up with a curved partial wool knit collar lining, a detail lifted from an oddball vintage “Maine Guide, RAIN-CHEATER” windbreaker. For the wool-sensitive, we sourced a soft/non-itchy wool ribbed knit, much more comfortable than the typical flight jacket mil-specs grade.

Our double arcuate scalloped back yoke is purely decorative, and we kept it simple with no vent or mesh panel. Another departure from traditional G-9s is our set-in sleeve pattern, distinct from the raglan type. We also went for the natural waist-length silhouette of vintage specimen, not the contemporary longer torso cut.

The MF® SCRAMBLER is not a reversible jacket, but comes in two distinct fabric options:
The first features a high density dark indigo-dyed poplin with a subtle fabric sheen characteristic of tightly-woven cloths, and with all the perks of a promising patina on the horizon. It is lined and complimented by a warm orange/green tones tartan fabric, inspired by a vintage wool kilt from our archives. We had an all-cotton interpretation of this plaid milled in Japan, hopefully not transgressing any Clan traditions.
The second model, in full-on casual 50s American sportswear fashion, displays that handsome tartan as the shell (we all thought it looked too good to just be a lining), and is lined by a classic indigo cotton chambray.

The Mister Freedom® SCRAMBLER is designed in California and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Model A:
Shell: Indigo-dyed high density 100% cotton poplin, crispy hand, milled in Japan.
Lining: Vintage-inspired woven tartan, 100% soft-hand cotton, warm orange/green tones, milled in Japan.
Model B:
Shell: Vintage-inspired 100% cotton soft-hand woven tartan, warm orange/green tones, milled in Japan.
Lining: Indigo blue cotton chambray.

DETAILS:
* Inspired by vintage British Harrington-style jackets and American casual sportswear windbreakers.
* Fully lined.
* Elastic wool ribbed knit waistband, natural waist length for a vintage silhouette.
* Dog-ear stand collar, double button closure.
* Soft-hand wool ribbed knit partial collar lining.
* Wool knit cuffs.
* Corozo wood buttons.
* Decorative double arcuate scalloped back yoke.
* Set-in sleeves.
* Vintage-style TALON zipper, bell-shape silver pull, 100% cotton tape. (Use gently as these behave like vintage zippers. Engage tab fully and do not use force to zip up. Lubricate the metal teeth with natural beeswax occasionally.)
* Slanted slash pockets with buttoned flaps, contrast facing.
* Mister Freedom® woven rayon mfsc “SURPLUS” label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The following applies to both fabric options. The MF® SCRAMBLER comes raw/unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Hang until fully dry.

Due to the 100% cotton fabric and stitching, some attractive puckering will show at the seams, giving the jacket more of a vintage feel.

The SCRAMBLER fits trim and slim, and sits higher on the waist than its modern contemporaries. I wear a fitted Medium (38), my usual size in most mfsc jackets, with room for a mid-weight shirt and T-shirt. If in-between sizes, we recommend sizing up rather than down with this jacket.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

Available RAW/unwashed.
CARE:
Launder when needed. Un-zip before washing. We recommend turning the indigo model inside out to avoid marbling of the fabric.
Machine wash on gentle cycle, cold water, minimum eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Do not use hot water or a heat dryer, as this may result in damages to the garment.
SIZES:
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (X-Large)
44 (XX-Large)

Available from our Los Angeles red brick HQ, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

 

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc SS2020 collection preview: “Waterfront Surplus”, “Yucatán”, “Dude Ranch” and “Sportsman” (made in USA and Japan)

 

SS2020 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”.


Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”.

SS2020 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “YUCATÁN”.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc “YUCATÁN”.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc “YUCATÁN”.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc “YUCATÁN”.

 

SS2020 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “DUDE RANCH”.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc “DUDE RANCH”.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc “DUDE RANCH”.

 

SS2020 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “SPORTSMAN” catalog.

 

MISTER FREEDOM® x SUGAR CANE Co mfsc SS2020 collection preview.

Our SS2020 mfsc line-up consists of several groupings of interconnected capsule collections, produced in Japan and USA. That up-coming season features “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”, “DUDE RANCH”, and a follow-up to our 1960’s McQueen-inspired concept called “YUCATÁN”, including our summer shirt collaboration with Sun Surf®.
We are introducing new fabrics (like the smashing Ice Blue denim!) in classic mfsc patterns, and familiar fabrics in new patterns. Some of these SS2020 garments fall under the SPORTSMAN (made in USA) or SURPLUS (made in Japan) catalogs, but are presented here regrouped by “story” rather than CoO (Country of Origin.)
Besides the classic style references and vintage inspiration, the common threads in all these original garments are our long-standing commitment to ethical manufacturing and aversion to fast fashion.

“WATERFRONT SURPLUS”:
Inspired by 1930’s US Navy and French Marine Nationale utility uniforms, it consists of the following.
1) DOCKYARD Jacket (made in Japan):
* 10 Oz. “snow” selvedge blue denim twill.
* 7.7 Oz. indigo-dyed herringbone twill (HBT) 60% Linen – 40% Cotton.
2) LONGSHOREMAN Shirt (made in Japan):
* 10 Oz. “snow” selvedge blue denim twill.
* 7.7 Oz. indigo-dyed herringbone twill (HBT) 60% Linen – 40% Cotton.
3) SWABBIES Dungarees (made in Japan):
* 10 Oz. “snow” selvedge blue denim twill.
4) Chandail SAINT-MALO (made in USA):
* NOS indigo cotton jersey knit.

“YUCATÁN”:
Loosely inspired by an obscure 1969 movie script written by actor Steve McQueen. Set in Mexico and involving chasing motorcycles, roaring dune buggies, desert racing, cenote diving, and treasure hunting… That project never made it on film. Following its SS2019 chapter, our SS2020 take consists of the following.
1) MERIDANA Shirt (made in Japan):
* 4.4 Oz. Indigo Linen.
* Beige mid-weight slubby Chambray, 50% Hemp – 25% Linen – 25% Cotton.
2) CALIFORNIAN Jeans Lot.674 (made in USA):
* 12.5 Oz. Piqué selvedge fabric, Golden Blond.
* 12 Oz. “Ice Blue” selvedge Denim twill, mfsc exclusive.
3) RANCH BLOUSE (made in USA):
* 12 Oz. “Ice Blue” selvedge Denim twill, mfsc exclusive.
4) Chemise MARINA (made in Japan):
* Indigo-dyed 100% cotton knit piqué.
* Desert Yellow 100% cotton knit piqué.
5) SCRAMBLER Jacket (made in Japan):
* Indigo-dyed cotton Gabardine (with cotton woven tartan lining.)
* Cotton woven Tartan (with indigo blue chambray lining.)
6) CATALINA Rock’n Roll Shirt, MF® x Sun Surf (made in Japan):
* 100% rayon, all original MF® print.
7) BOARD SHORTS (made in USA):
* NOS two-tone crosshatch denim combo, cotton-linen blend.
8) STANLEY SHOP TEE:
* Hand silk-screened, original “Freedom” graphic.

“DUDE RANCH”:
Inspired by 1950’s-60’s Hollywood western movies and vintage silver screen cowboys, this collection consists of the following.
1) DUDE RANCHER Shirt (made in Japan):
* Selvedge Vat-dye Chambray.
* Shadow Plaid printed 100% cotton popeline.
2) mfsc Ranch BANDANA (made in Japan):
* Selvedge cotton fabric. Red, Navy, Brown, or Gold.
3) Californian Blue Jeans Lot.64 (made in USA):
* 13 Oz. NOS Cone Mills selvedge denim Left Hand Twill.

“The SPORTSMAN”:
Our on-going catalog of original classics made in USA. This season’s additions not falling into the above stories consist of the following.
1) Continental Two-Piece Suit “Le PARISIEN, Sportcoat & Trousers -also available separately- (made in USA):
* Mock Twist Stripe, selvedge, 100% cotton.
2) Sportsman Chinos (made in USA):
* 8 Oz. NOS crosshatch denim twill, slate grey, 60% Cotton – 40% Linen.

Voila!

Drop dates for this latest Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc line-up are imminent. We are expecting deliveries between February and April 2020, as Japan and USA factories gradually complete production.
Contact sales@misterfreedom.com with questions you may have, although full specs will only be available at the time each garment is released and documented on this blog.

Thank you very much for taking the time to read this, and for your support.
Sincerely,

Christophe LOIRON
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® “DUNE BUGGY” Jacket, cotton-rayon sateen-back , SS2019 mfsc “Yucatán” Collection, made in Japan.

Papy, instant desert rat, real as a three dollar bill! MF® DIY, The Look You Want – When You Want It!

Mister Freedom “DUNE BUGGY” Jacket.
SS2019 mfsc “YUCATÁN” collection.
Made in Japan.

The making-of this next number is a long – brace yourselves – and soporific story, harking back to my Los Angeles days of relentless thrift-store-hunting and flea-market-prowling…
As a rule I learned during my “American rag Cieboot camp years as a picker, I’d usually pass on poly-cotton garments. But there was something about that 60’s black and white racing jacket I couldn’t leave behind, despite its large modern-looking “Solar Productions” chest patch that threw me off at the time. That was no STP coolness, I thought. Late 1990’s…
If I remember well, this number came out of  Aadvark´s, a today-defunct SoCal vintage clothing store chain with reputedly low-priced hidden treasures, if one took the time to weed through the ocean of run-of-the-mill garb, and knew the trade. The jacket, manufactured by ¨Bowler’s Shirt and Uniform¨ of Los Angeles, was intriguing. No iPhone to google it up on the spot, so i shelled the $20 bucks or so, and took it home, saving it from its Halloween costume fate…

Sported it around town on several occasions, as all I owned were vintage duds at the time. Unsure how I eventually figured out that ¨Solar Productions¨ was Steve McQueen´s own film production company, established around 1965, later located on the CBS lot in Studio City, California. Score!
This piece is one of the very few lucky find that I managed to hold-on to, in my 30 years in the vintage schmatta. The hunt is exciting, but collecting and hoarding less appealing, to me.

Fast-forward to 2018. While working on our ¨YUCATÁN¨ SS2019 mfsc capsule collection, pulling-out that old jacket out of the closet made sense. Quick research had yielded several photos of McQueen himself sporting his, along with other members of the Solar crew. These on-set pictures were mostly captured during the 1969-70 scouting and filming of ¨Le Mans¨ in France. Check-out the bookLe Mans in the Rearview Mirror“.
I’ve always wondered who initially owned that jacket scored some 20 years ago. How many were produced and distributed for promotional purposes? Solar Productions HQ consisted of a staff of about 25 people in 1968. Did mine belong to one of McQueen’s buddies, or employees, or, could it be… ??!
I’ll never know, but that thing sure is a keeper!

An original late 1960’s “Solar Productions” film crew jacket, a lucky thrift-store find in the late 1990’s. (Mister Freedom® Archives)

Back to the MF® Design Dept… It was of course out of the question to replicate that vintage piece verbatim, for obvious Intellectual Property concerns, and because McQueen Racing, Chad McQueen’s company, should obviously be first to release a replica or reissue of the original “Solar Production” crew jacket design.

For our project, we merely used the jacket as an inspiration spark and for its Costume History value, following instead the usual might-have-been MF® design approach. We did borrow the cool snap-on throat-latch stand collar detail gimmick of the original jacket.
For the rest of the design, we tapped into vintage military gear and decided to merge racing with a 1970´s USAF classic, namely a CWU-7P (Cold Weather Unit) ground crew jacket. The Frankenstein result is a contemporary wearable with a classic, timeless vibe.

For the shell fabric, we opted for a double-face woven textile, cotton face and rayon reverse aka cotton-back sateen, an original fabric inspired by vintage 1950’s ‘weatherproof’ McGregor® Scottish Drizzlers we previously featured on our BREEZER Windbreaker. The “DUNE BUGGY” is cut cotton side-out, with the sateen rayon twill side visible on the tonal ‘racing’ chest stripe. The fabric face is rather matte, contrasting with the rayon sateen sheen.
The lining is an elegant British-style woven plaid, cotton/linen blend, milled in an attractive indigo blue and white tartan.

Our “DUNE BUGGY” jacket’s demeanor is quite sleek and unassuming, with an understated 60’s racing vibe. Unless… you decide to rev-up your speedster street credit overnight with a DIY job, sticking on the jacket all kinds of vintage grease monkey-related patches! Pismo Beach dune-riding Baja Boot special, or motorcycle racing à-laOn Any Sunday” desert-rat… Go, Speed Racer, Go!

The MF® “DUNE BUGGY” Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Shell: Tightly woven blend of 50% cotton (matte face) and 50% rayon twill sateen (shinny reverse, visible on chest racing stripe), aka cotton-back sateen, milled in Japan.
Lining: Cotton/linen blend woven plaid, indigo and white tartan.
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern blending 1970’s USAF  CWU-7P ground crew jacket, vintage 1960’s racing crew gear, and old Hollywood history.
* Fully lined.
* Understated single racing stripe on chest, displaying the shinier rayon side of the fabric.
* Snap-on throat-latch stand collar 1960’s design.
* Zipper front, 1960’s style vintage Mil-Specs heavy-duty metal zipper.
* Wide lower wrap pockets with slanted snap flaps.
* Single chest pocket with slanted snap flap.
* Wind-flap with zig-zag stitching.
* Snap-on cinch tabs on sleeve cuffs.
* USAF flight jacket-style rear panel shoulder darts.
* Original mfsc “YUCATÁN” rayon woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® “DUNE BUGGY” jacket comes raw/unwashed.

We recommend our usual method for raw washable garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.

This garment is is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
The noticeable difference of shell/lining shrinkage will result in the attractive plaid lining discreetly peeping on the bottom, a subtle cool detail familiar to vintage clothing aficionados.
I opted for a MEDIUM in the “DUNE BUGGY”, my usual size in mfsc jackets. The fit is quite slim but comfortable, with an old-school racing crew jacket silhouette.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Wash separately on delicate (do not use the heavy-duty machine settings, as the metal zipper and pull may damage the fabric during the rapid agitation), cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not use hot water or heat dryer.

Available raw (un-washed)
Sizes
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019