Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc FW2020 collection preview: “TRUCK STOP”, “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”, and “SPORTSMAN” (made in USA and Japan)

FW2020 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “TRUCK STOP”.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “TRUCK STOP” FW2020 mfsc collection ©2020

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “TRUCK STOP” FW2020 mfsc collection ©2020

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “TRUCK STOP” FW2020 mfsc collection ©2020

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “TRUCK STOP” FW2020 mfsc collection ©2020

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “TRUCK STOP” FW2020 mfsc collection ©2020

 

FW2020 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “SURPLUS” catalog.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SURPLUS” FW2020 mfsc collection ©2020

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SURPLUS” FW2020 mfsc collection ©2020

 

FW2020 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “WATERFRONT SURPLUS” FW2020 mfsc collection ©2020

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “WATERFRONT SURPLUS” FW2020 mfsc collection ©2020

 

FW2020 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “SPORTSMAN” catalog.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” FW2020 mfsc catalog ©2020

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” FW2020 mfsc catalog ©2020

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” FW2020 mfsc catalog ©2020

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” FW2020 mfsc catalog ©2020

MF® Ball-T color options, “SPORTSMAN” FW2020 mfsc catalog ©2020

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” FW2020 mfsc catalog ©2020

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “SPORTSMAN” FW2020 mfsc catalog ©2020

Dear Friends,

Hope everyone is faring well under the circumstances, staying healthy, sane and positive. I won’t dwell on current events as your news sources are probably handling that daily, just hoping you are finding ways to navigate through these uncharted waters well, and safely.

We’ve kept on truckin’! Here are the fruits of our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane (mfsc) collaboration this Fall 2020. The line-up this season consists of the following groupings, produced in Japan and USA (regrouped in the above photos by “stories” rather than Country of Origin, with some style crossovers.)

TRUCKSTOP” is a new capsule, drawing inspiration from the colorful world of the American independent trucker, with Mid-West style influences spanning 1950s to 1970s. Think Smokey & The Bandits, Convoy, Citizens Band Radio (CB), vintage Overdrive magazines, River Rat and the 1973 US trucker strike
Made in Japan, the line-up includes:
a) PIONEER Jacket:
* Midnight denim, selvedge 16 Oz. indigo warp x black weft.
* Wool plaid, 21 Oz.
b) DEPUTY Pants:
* Midnight denim, selvedge 16 Oz. indigo warp x black weft.
* NOS brushed Dobby stripe, brown.
c) DUDE RANCHER Shirt:
* “Joan” woven plaid, selvedge, 8.25 Oz.
* Indigo denim, selvedge 7.25 Oz.
d) MAVERICK Jacket:
* “Malibu” denim, selvedge 12 Oz.
* “Ice-Blu” denim, selvedge 12 Oz.
* “Malibu” x “Ice-Blu” combo.

WATERFRONT SURPLUS” is an old mfsc favorite, a nautical grouping inspired by 1930’s US Navy and French Marine Nationale utility uniforms, local-made and custom-tailored dungarees, with the usual liberties we take with military-inspired classics. Made in Japan, this line-up includes:
a) PRIVATEER Roll-Neck:
* Cotton rib, indigo-dyed.
* Cotton rib, natural.
b) MF37 SNIPES Shirt:
Blue chambray, BR selvedge 5 Oz.
c) MF51 FIELD Shirt:
* Melton wool, 10 Oz., navy blue.
* Melton wool, 10 Oz., indigo-dyed.
d) NCT CHINOS:“Okinawa” selvedge denim, 12 Oz.

“SURPLUS” is our on-going catalog of original classics and mfsc re-issues. Made in Japan, FW2020 additions include:
a) ROAMER Car Coat:
Heavy wide-wale corduroy, old black, 14 Oz. (w/ Troy blanket lining.)
b) SECOYA Shirt:
Heavy flannel, indigo-dyed yarns, selvedge, 8.25 Oz.

The SPORTSMAN” is our on-going catalog of original classics. Made in USA, FW2020 additions include:
a) ARISTOCRAT Shirt:
* Cotton Oxford, selvedge, blue.
* Cotton Oxford, selvedge, white.
b) Continental Sportcoat and Trousers “RIVE GAUCHE”:
Heavy corduroy, cognac brown.
c) BALOO Jacket:
Combination black tea-core cowhide and brown sheepskin panels.
d) RANCH BLOUSE & CALIFORNIAN Lot.64:
SC66 indigo denim, selvedge 14 Oz., NOS plaid pocketing.
e) CALIFORNIAN Lot.674:
“Hawaii” indigo denim, selvedge 14 Oz.
f) FEED Cap:
* 6 Panel pattern, NOS selvedge denim.
* 5 Panel pattern, orange mesh & “Malibu” selvedge denim.
g) BALL-T’s:
Tubular “Stanley” all-cotton slubby jersey knit.
* Black body / white sleeves.
* Black body / royal blue sleeves.
* Royal blue body / white sleeves.
h) TOPSIDERS:
New Old Stock (NOS) 100% cotton herringbone twill, 8.5 Oz., brown (gunpowder tea color).

As always, besides the classic vintage style references, the common thread in all these original garments is our on-going commitment to ethical manufacturing and resistance to fast fashion.

Drop dates for this latest Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc line-up are in the coming months. We are expecting deliveries between August and September 2020, as Japan and USA factories gradually complete production. Feel free to contact sales@misterfreedom.com with questions you may have, although full specs will only be available at the time each garment is released and documented on this blog.

Lastly, I know that you, as a consumer, have many options in selecting menswear apparel to match your aesthetics, ethics, and budget. I am therefore particularly grateful and indebted to all our supportive patrons, who have yet-again made another season of mfsc possible.
Thank you for supporting creativity, for keeping small businesses in business, and for
making us look good.
Stay safe and stay cool my friends.

Love from Sunny California,

c

?✌????

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
7161 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90036
USA
(t) 323.653.2014
www.misterfreeedom.com

Mister Freedom® RANCH KERCHIEF, western novelty print, selvedge cotton. “Dude Ranch” collection. Made in Japan.

 

Mister Freedom® mfsc RANCH KERCHIEF, selvedge cotton.
SS2020 mfsc “DUDE RANCH” collection, made in Japan.

We dug-out some vintage Old West-related silk scarves from the Mister Freedom® archives for inspiration, and put together this original “RANCH KERCHIEF”, in full 1950s-60s “dude ranch” tenderfoot fashion. Like the singing cowboy Rex Allen once confessed sometime around 1958, in regards to his TV fancy wardrobe: “I recon I wear seersucker suits. Sears made ‘em and a sucker bought ‘em.” Cowboy wisdom.

Cinema and music have reinvented the American West since the 1930s (or earlier), often depicting an “on the range” reality that might not have been everyone’s experience of it.
To keep things light, our bandana sticks to that romanticized version of cowpoke life, a bit more “Oklahoma!” than “Dead Wood”. Its novelty artwork does not incorporate any “cool” Native American symbols or references, a minefield these days. Save for the obscur “MF” and “SC” branding iron repeats, there is no maker mention either, but that’s just because we were so busy picking colors that we actually forgot to include our brand name!
The print is made on an all cotton plain weave selvedge fabric base, using water-based ink. A bleed-thru effect guarantees that both sides display the graphic with equal sharpness and vibrance.
Like most traditional 1950s-1960s fashion or promotional bandanas, our RANCH KERCHIEF features three sides machine-hemmed and one side using the fabric selvedge, an old sign of fabric yield maximizing. Modern mass-produced generic bandanas tend to be hemmed on all four sides (fabrics milled on wide looms with frayed edges), sometimes unattractively serged (overlocked), and, ultimate deal-breaker, cut from polycotton for some. Besides the few attractive vintage replicas/interpretations available today from discerning labels, selvedge bandanas are not the norm.
We opted for a classic average square size of  23 x 23 inches, so that our RANCH KERCHIEF can be used as neckwear, do-rag, dust mask, hankie, wall display, sling, pocket square, napkin, field tourniquet, pet scarf, furoshiki etc…
This SS2020 release comes in four colorways we are calling red, navy, gold and green to simplify.

We devised the original kraft paper packaging as to not include a PVC plastic window, playing around with the concept of a vintage souvenir brought home from a guest ranch vacation.

The mfsc RANCH KERCHIEF is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by SugarCane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Fine 100% cotton, traditional selvedge “bandana” lightweight fabric, milled and printed in Japan.
Four classic colorways: red, navy, gold or green.

DETAILS:
* Vintage-inspired 1950s-60s dude ranch cowboy/western artwork.
* Fabric selvedge featured on one side, with other three edges finished with narrow hem.
* Water-based ink for soft-hand print.
* Approximate size 23 x 23 inches ( about 58 x 58 cm.)
* Packaged in an original vintage-like kraft paper envelope, a fun present for your significant cowboy, cowgirl, cowperson, or pet.
* Made in Japan.

CARE:
These bandanas come raw/unwashed. We recommend a full wash before using, to remove the starched finish and soften-up the fabric.
The RANCH KERCHIEF is low maintenance and should be laundered when needed.
Machine wash on normal cycle, cold or warm water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Line dry of tumble dry.

Available Raw/Unwashed.
One size, four color options.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, cotton broadcloth, SS2019 mfsc Surplus catalog, made in Japan.

 

Photo courtesy of 20th Century Fox, “Junior Bonner” (1972)

Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, cotton broadcloth.
SS2019 mfsc Surplus catalog.
Made in Japan.

Following the Mister Freedom® Appaloosa introduced during Fall 2013 and released in a variety of denim-related fabrics, the “DUDE RANCHER” is our second traditional “western snap” shirt. This all-original pattern was inspired by a selection of vintage “cowboy” shirts, and will now be joining the ranks of the mfsc SURPLUS catalog.

The DUDE RANCHER features the expected western-style front and back yokes. We opted for arcuate panels subtle-enough to keep the shirt as a daily-wearable, with traditional yet understated curved yokes.

The playful “M” tonal branding stitch on the chest pockets is also discreet. We couldn’t help an ace up the sleeve with the tricked-out forearm pattern featuring an intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket. The pattern-making connoisseur will appreciate.

The fabric we opted for for this first release is a fancy 100% cotton broadcloth, a type of tightly-woven poplin. Broadcloth, with its silky smooth surface and crispy dry hand, is often associated with fancy vintage dress shirts. As a caveat, cotton broadcloth is prone to natural fabric wrinkling, a characteristic of garments cut from noble natural fiber materials (cotton, linen, silk etc…), before the crowning of poly-cotton and acrylics as households’ favorites, sometime in the 1960’s, to facilitate stain removal and liberate one from the burden of ironing. Generations later, this fashion shift and material preference will also lead to the production of billions of pounds of synthetic garments impossible to recycle.

As introduced a few years back with the Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts, the DUDE RANCHER features painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, our use of tonal metal snaps is both a nod to bygone westernwear fashion, and a design choice for a toned-down vibe that doesn’t scream yipikaye. Basically, we wanted an easy-to-wear classic garment.

For the rodeo-inclined, we are also releasing a limited edition run of embroidered DUDE RANCHER shirts, featuring original chainstitched “MF® Ranch”classic artwork, a nod to 1950’s style of branding work uniforms and other promotional garments. For consistency and cost issues, these custom shirts have not been decorated on hand-crank operated chainstitch machines, but with program-operated machines. The results are similar, but the expert chainstitch artist will notice the difference in the filling technique. Having recently added a 1950’s Cornely to our upstairs atelier in order to do a few in-house embro jobs, we were quite happy to delegate this tedious custom “rodeo” production task to the pros!


Note: Considering the fine broadcloth fabric and metal snaps, refrain from yanking on the front panels á la Tom Jones when taking your shirt off. Carefully un-snap the buttons one by one, and listen to the crowd roar.

The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
100% cotton broadcloth (aka poplin), tight weave, smooth soft texture and crispy dry hand. Milled in Japan
Two color options, black or white.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts.
* Traditional arcuate front and back yokes.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Original mountain-shaped “M” tonal stitching on pockets.
* Intricate diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton tonal hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” tonal woven label.

SIZING/WASHING:
The DUDE RANCHER comes rinsed/preshrunk. The shirt is ready-to-wear.
I opted for a MEDIUM (in both colors), my usual size in mfsc shirting, for a trim, traditional western shirt fit.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

 

CARE:
When needed, machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similar-colored garments.
Mind the fine broadcloth fabric and metal snaps combination, and do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and could damage the garment.

Available rinsed (pre-shrunk)
Solid black/white, or “Rodeo Edition”.
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Mister Freedom® MFSC spring 2012 (Part 6): “Prairie Shirt” Denim & Calico

Let them see you and not the suit

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Prairie Shirt, cotton denim & Calico.

Here is the latest addition to our Men of the Frontier spring 2012 collection: The PRAIRIE SHIRT, in two different fabric options, selvedge denim and calico printed broadcloth.
Inspired by 1930’s American shirting and mixing several elements of vintage samples from our archives, here is another versatile shirt for discerning gents. This is our first new “white back denim” shirt since our sought after Liberty Issue CPO from a few seasons back, that will ring a bell with the ol’ timers.
The madder calico version taps into our yen for early American printed shirting fabrics. Our little homemade Calico scrapbook was again pretty handy…
For the shirt pattern, we incorporated detailing from early western shirts and gentleman wear, again trying to stay clear from clichés and reproductions.
Now we here just make the clothes, it’s up to you to make ‘em look good. Like the Man said: “Let them see you, and not the suit”

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1930’s American shirting. The fit is similar to our “Apache” Chemise Calico, a bit roomier because of the back expansion gusset and shearing.
FABRIC: The Prairie shirt comes in two very different fabric options, both milled in Japan for MFSC.
a) Light weight selvedge dark indigo denim, 7.5 Oz.
b) All cotton broadcloth selvedge fabric, 4.5 Oz., printed with a tiny calico turn of the Century inspired pattern, madder red on natural. The reverse of the fabric appears ‘white’ because of the limited ‘bleed through’ effect of the specific intricate printing process.
DETAILS:
* Collar band facing with indigo dyed popeline.
* Front closure with metal Diamond type DOT snaps.
* Collar, cuffs and pocket closures with original 1920’s New Old Stock ox bone buttons.
* Original MFSC chest flap single pocket
* European type selvedge side gussets.
* Rounded back tail and front overlapping panels.
* Original MFSC woven label on lower tucked-in front panel. The rayon label is stamped with the size.
* Original middle back panel expansion gusset.
* White cotton popeline button placket facing.
* Back panel and cuff shearing.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching, high count.
* Flat felled seam construction.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the PRAIRIE SHIRT comes in an old school cardboard box with original MF® artwork. This sturdy box is not the collapsible cheapo kind, and can be used for storage of small items. Please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
The shirt comes UNWASHED, the material is raw, so shrinkage is expected.
The measurements in the sizing chart below are done before and after a cold soak and line dry, resulting in very minimal shrinkage.

Prairie Shirt Sizing Chart

Calico: The calico option can be washed on delicate and machine dried and is pretty much “low maintenance”.
Denim: For those of you who value the appearance, goodness and wholesome appeal of RAW denim (ie. denim NOT chemically processed by a highly polluting distressing industrial wash factory, as most denim Industry companies offer to the un-savvy consumer. But you didn’t hear this from me…), we recommend a home cold soak and line dry. You won’t get full shrinkage at first, but wearing the shirt this way in the early stage (with the starch still in the fabric) will overtime guarantee a fade and patina similar to an old WW2 USN barrack bag…
As always, we do not recommend HOT soaking, as this alters the dark denim color.

DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the dark indigo denim, bleeding is expected. You will get some (washable) color rubbing when the shirt is paired with a white undershirt. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash. Please use minimal mild AND environment friendly detergent.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Limited edition.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes:
13 ½
(X-Small)
14 ½
(Small)
15 ½ (Medium)
16 ½ (Large)
17 ½ (X-Large)
18 ½ (XX-Large)
Retail: $ 359.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship almost everywhere internationally.
Gracias for your support, Amigos.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 (Part 1): The “CHAPARRAL BLOUSE”

Chaparral Blouse MFSC® bricks

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: The CHAPARRAL BLOUSE

Because most tailors/sewers/garment suppliers had a European background in the early days of the American Frontier, and because a lot of the fabrics used were imported from the old Country, this collection combines both American and European elements. Stitching techniques, textiles, styles, patterns and inspiration were drawn from both Worlds, a reflection of the coexistence of both cultures at the time.

You will notice, as we unveil each item, that you don’t need to live out on the range, be called Tex and pack a six-shooter to pull of our “Men of the Frontier” garb. It was not designed for re-enacting 3:10 to Yuma, but to mix with what you feel appropriate. I personally like to mix it with stuff from previous MF® collections, such as shirting and trousers from our 1900’s “Apache” French hoodlums.

After introducing the new concept for Spring 2012 last week, here is the first installment: the CHAPARRAL BLOUSE.
Inspired by 1920’s~30’s vintage  jackets, styles and silhouettes, we combined elements, left the wheel as is but slapped our own hub caps on it. This jacket was born from an original sketch, many old photographs and memories.
Since I got you already yawning, here are the specs:

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1920’s~30’s sport type light jackets, leather A-1 type coats, early Chimayo jackets etc…
FABRIC: The Chaparral comes in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches, both options are inspired by rare turn of the century French workwear textiles from our archives.
a) MFSC Brown Canvas: A blend of 80% linen and 20% cotton selvedge canvas, 12.5 Oz., in a “cachou“/ brown Duck color.
b) MFSC Indigo Canvas: A blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton selvedge canvas, 8 Oz., Indigo dyed.
DETAILS:
* 1920’s~30’s silhouette
* Original A-1 type round collar (yes Sir, we like)
* Back darting and expansion gusset, 1930’s style.
* Horsehide leather side and cuff cinch straps (with vintage NOS French metal slide buckles) and leather pocket trimming and leather detachable chin-strap.
* Corozo wood buttons, tonal.
* Lightweight and un-lined withNO exposed/overlocked seams on the inside (that was some task…)
* Flat felled seams and single needle machine construction.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the blouse comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
Both canvas options come RAW (un-washed). Both fabrics are un-sanforized and will shrink down to the same fit after several wash/soak/dry cycles. The Indigo canvas shrinks ‘faster’ than the Duck canvas. I recommend doing an original cold soak and hung dry. See how it fits and take it from there. With rinsing/wearing, the fabrics will shrink/stretch back and forth for a while and settle eventually.
DO NOT BOIL those canvas blouses, as the leather would NOT like it. The leather can take a full heat drying cycle for several minutes though (check to see what’s happening once in a while.)
Refrain from using soap also, unless you HAVE spent the summer on horseback up the Chisholm trail. This will guarantee an amazing fade and patina overtime.

Click on the sizing chart bellow for approx RAW (Brown) and rinsed/hang dry (Brown and Indigo)  measurements:

Blouse Chaparral SIZING Chart

FIT: I am usually a Medium (38 ) in MFSC jackets, and wear a Medium (38) Indigo blouse in the silly shots above. It has just been rinsed and hung dry once, still has some shrinkage in it. I just started wearing it, and will see .
As far as my brown canvas version, I have worn it for a few months, washed/machine dried it several times (again, it takes ‘longer’, meaning more cycles, for that option to fully shrink and stabilize)

Garment designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured by Sugar Cane Co, under our MFSC collaboration label.
Limited Edition.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes: 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail: $629.95

Call  (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support.