Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, “101” selvedge denim, FW2020 mfsc “TRUCK STOP” collection. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER snap shirt FW2020 ©2020

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Snap Shirt, “101” selvedge denim edition.
FW2020 mfsc TRUCK STOP collection.
Made in Japan.

Riding shotgun with the Rubber Duck for Fall 2020 is our DUDE RANCHER in a new skin, a nice and dry indigo denim twill. We are calling it “101” in reference to the famous U.S. Route 101 – or 101 freeway as it is called in So Cal – and as a nod to the bygone Montgomery Ward “101” Powerhouse workwear brand.
This 7.25 Oz. 2 x 1 selvedge twill is reminiscent of vintage Lee-Levi’s-Wrangler denim snap shirts, and enhanced by our choice of yellow/orange combo contrast stitching.

Our DUDE RANCHER pattern, previously released in black and white broadcloth (cotton poplin), printed shadow plaid, light indigo vat-dye chambray, and “Joan” woven plaid, is a Mister Freedom® spin on the traditional “western snap” shirt. The design features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes and arcuate panels. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.

The shirts buttons are painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts, initially featured on the 2013 MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.

The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt “101” denim is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
A dry 100% cotton indigo blue denim, 7.25 Oz., solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts.
* Traditional western-wear arcuate front and back yokes.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Yellow/orange combo contrast stitching.
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Fancy diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style selvedge side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The “101” Denim DUDE RANCHER comes RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Hang until fully dry.

I personally opted for a SMALL, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit, sizing down from my usual Medium in mfsc shirting. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs.

Note that this denim version of the DUDE RANCHER features slightly longer tails and arms than previous versions.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CHART

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, vat-dyed selvedge chambray & printed shadow plaid, SS2020 mfsc “Dude Ranch” collection. Made in Japan.

 

 

Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, vat-dyed selvedge chambray & shadow-plaid printed poplin.
SS2020 mfsc “DUDE RANCH” collection & Surplus catalog.
Made in Japan.

The Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA introduced during Fall 2013 and released in a variety of denim-related fabrics was our first traditional “western snap” shirt. The “DUDE RANCHER” is our second spin on the style. This all-original pattern was inspired by a selection of vintage “cowboy” shirts, and initially issued in high-count cotton poplin during Spring 2019, available in solid black and white, with a limited edition “rodeo” batch custom chainstitch-embroidered.

The DUDE RANCHER features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes, but we opted for arcuate panels subtle-enough to keep the shirt not too “costumey”. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.
Our DUDE RANCHER features painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts, previously featured on the MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.

For this SS2020 release, we decided to go “Hee Haw meets Oklahoma!”, with a vibrant orange/green/yellow printed plaid poplin option. This period-looking check pattern was lifted verbatim from a vintage 1920s-30s garment from the MF® archives, also printed on high-count poplin. The “shadowed” plaid pattern has a definitive Art Deco vibe, reminiscent of bygone airbrush shading techniques. See the works of Dorothy and Otis Shepard, the power-couple geniuses behind Wringley’s chewing gum wrapper and countless of other 1930s billboards, paper ads and packaging.

This flashy number in Technicolor® is in sharp contrast with the vat-dyed selvedge chambray fabric option, kinda taking after Junior Bonner rather than 1950s Grand Ole Opry. If “traditional” chambray cloth is a plain weave of a colored warp (indigo for a blue chambray) and white weft, our vat-dyed chambray features light indigo-dyed yarn in both warp and weft, giving the fabric the appearance of a solid colored textile. Closer inspection will reveal the much more interesting and attractive grainy texture of classic chambrays. This characteristic definitely sets vat-dyed fabrics apart from regular piece-dyed fabrics (dyed after milling) and their ‘flat’, solid uniform color.
Vat-dyed chambrays were a popular novelty in 1940s-50s workwear, with fabric producers like PEPPERELL (Boston, Massachusetts) boasting of their colorfast, sunfast or “Will Not Fade” qualities.

Our choice of contrast stitching for the chambray model is a nod to the classic 1970s light-weight Levi’s chambrays familiar to vintage clothing aficionados. My Dad was a big fan, as I remember that vivid orange tab on the chest pocket, magically enhancing the faded blue fabric.
We combined orange and yellow thread for the caballo chainstitch, a subtle dual color contrast touch. The DUDE RANCHER features high-count stitching, contributing to the shirt’s vintage look, without having to resort to unnecessary processing, chemical washes or sandblasting. In these days of fast fashion, very few factories are still willing or qualified to operate the machines that allow such high-count stitching and narrow seams, so we are grateful for our friends at Toyo Enterprises for keeping this quality production level available. Such attention to details also delays production drastically, as each shirt takes about 3 times longer to complete. It goes without saying that this comes at a price, which the reader is very well aware of!

The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Two options:
a) Printed “shadow” plaid, high-count 100% cotton poplin, partial bleed-though, made in Japan.
b) Vat-dyed chambray, 100% cotton, light indigo blue solid color, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts.
* Traditional western-wear arcuate front and back yokes.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Tonal stitching for plaid model, dual contrast orange/yellow stitching for chambray version.
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Fancy diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/WASHING:
Both versions of the DUDE RANCHER come RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. 
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Hang until fully dry.

I opted for a MEDIUM in both fabric options (my usual size in mfsc shirting), for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CHART

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similar-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and could damage the garment.

Available RAW (un-rinsed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, cotton broadcloth, SS2019 mfsc Surplus catalog, made in Japan.

 

Photo courtesy of 20th Century Fox, “Junior Bonner” (1972)

Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, cotton broadcloth.
SS2019 mfsc Surplus catalog.
Made in Japan.

Following the Mister Freedom® Appaloosa introduced during Fall 2013 and released in a variety of denim-related fabrics, the “DUDE RANCHER” is our second traditional “western snap” shirt. This all-original pattern was inspired by a selection of vintage “cowboy” shirts, and will now be joining the ranks of the mfsc SURPLUS catalog.

The DUDE RANCHER features the expected western-style front and back yokes. We opted for arcuate panels subtle-enough to keep the shirt as a daily-wearable, with traditional yet understated curved yokes.

The playful “M” tonal branding stitch on the chest pockets is also discreet. We couldn’t help an ace up the sleeve with the tricked-out forearm pattern featuring an intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket. The pattern-making connoisseur will appreciate.

The fabric we opted for for this first release is a fancy 100% cotton broadcloth, a type of tightly-woven poplin. Broadcloth, with its silky smooth surface and crispy dry hand, is often associated with fancy vintage dress shirts. As a caveat, cotton broadcloth is prone to natural fabric wrinkling, a characteristic of garments cut from noble natural fiber materials (cotton, linen, silk etc…), before the crowning of poly-cotton and acrylics as households’ favorites, sometime in the 1960’s, to facilitate stain removal and liberate one from the burden of ironing. Generations later, this fashion shift and material preference will also lead to the production of billions of pounds of synthetic garments impossible to recycle.

As introduced a few years back with the Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts, the DUDE RANCHER features painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, our use of tonal metal snaps is both a nod to bygone westernwear fashion, and a design choice for a toned-down vibe that doesn’t scream yipikaye. Basically, we wanted an easy-to-wear classic garment.

For the rodeo-inclined, we are also releasing a limited edition run of embroidered DUDE RANCHER shirts, featuring original chainstitched “MF® Ranch”classic artwork, a nod to 1950’s style of branding work uniforms and other promotional garments. For consistency and cost issues, these custom shirts have not been decorated on hand-crank operated chainstitch machines, but with program-operated machines. The results are similar, but the expert chainstitch artist will notice the difference in the filling technique. Having recently added a 1950’s Cornely to our upstairs atelier in order to do a few in-house embro jobs, we were quite happy to delegate this tedious custom “rodeo” production task to the pros!


Note: Considering the fine broadcloth fabric and metal snaps, refrain from yanking on the front panels á la Tom Jones when taking your shirt off. Carefully un-snap the buttons one by one, and listen to the crowd roar.

The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
100% cotton broadcloth (aka poplin), tight weave, smooth soft texture and crispy dry hand. Milled in Japan
Two color options, black or white.

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts.
* Traditional arcuate front and back yokes.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Original mountain-shaped “M” tonal stitching on pockets.
* Intricate diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton tonal hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” tonal woven label.

SIZING/WASHING:
The DUDE RANCHER comes rinsed/preshrunk. The shirt is ready-to-wear.
I opted for a MEDIUM (in both colors), my usual size in mfsc shirting, for a trim, traditional western shirt fit.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

 

CARE:
When needed, machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similar-colored garments.
Mind the fine broadcloth fabric and metal snaps combination, and do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and could damage the garment.

Available rinsed (pre-shrunk)
Solid black/white, or “Rodeo Edition”.
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

Appaloosa Shirt, double indigo selvedge twill, Sportsman catalog Spring 2016, made in USA.

Appaloosa-Indigo-Canvas-6

Vintage Rodeo poster from www.lemagasin.eu

Appaloosa-Indigo-Canvas-3

Appaloosa-Indigo-Canvas-2

Appaloosa-Indigo-Canvas-4

Appaloosa-Indigo-Canvas-5

Appaloosa-Indigo-Canvas-1

The “Appaloosa shirt”, double indigo cotton selvedge twill
Sportsman Spring 2016

We are adding a new sensation to our Appaloosa family this Spring. Originally released in several traditional blue denim options, a batch was later issued in a stripe denim twill.
While fabric hunting sometime last year, we came across a handsome indigo-dyed twill we couldn’t resist. A double indigo (indigo warp and indigo weft), with white selvedge ID, 8 oz, milled in Japan, perfect for an iteration of the Appaloosa. We often refer to this kind of twill as ‘midnight’, but that’s just us with an inclination for fancy verbiage.

The Appaloosa shirt’s design stays the same. It combines several details of vintage western and work shirts, diverting a bit from the traditional cowboy cut denim western yoke numbers. As introduced a few years back with the Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts, our Appaloosa features painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts. Our front yoke is of a vintage ‘Roebuck’ type rather than the usual western arcuate style. The pocket flaps are locked in the yoke. The top collar button is the metal debossed mfsc type we often use for our Sportsman line.
You’ll notice we went full Zorro on this 2016 edition, opting for a subdued look. The metal snaps are painted black and the stitching is tonal, ie. dark navy.

The Sportsman ‘Appaloosa Shirt’ is designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

(Vintage Rodeo poster from our friend Damien at www.lemagasin.eu)

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage workwear and western shirting.

FABRIC:
Dark indigo warp x indigo weft twill, 100% cotton, white selvedge ID, 8 Oz., milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Slim ‘western shirt’ type silhouette and fit.
* Painted metal DOT snaps. The black paint will chip with age.
* Vintage ‘Roebuck’ type front yoke
* Western style back yoke.
* Two chest pockets, snap flaps, locked into yoke construction.
* Double snap cuffs.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching, high stitch count.
* Double chainstitch construction with green color thread “Sportsman” inside signature.
* Selvedge side gusset, chainstitch run offs.
* Original mfsc “The Sportsman” woven rayon label.
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
This shirt comes RAW/Un-washed and will shrink to tagged size. We recommend an original 20-30mn cold soak, machine spin dry then line dry.
I usually wear a Medium in mfsc shirting and I wear a comfortable MEDIUM in this double indigo twill Appaloosa release.
Please note that the initial cold soak of the Appaloosa shirt I am breaking in resulted in very minimal shrinkage. I expect more shrinkage with subsequent washing and am OK with the extra slack seen on the fit picture for now.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements to see what works for you. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Launder when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails.
Machine wash. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. We recommend turning indigo blue/denim garments inside out to avoid marbling from the washing cycles.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
WARNING: As with most dark indigo-dyed garments, color croaking is to be expected. Indigo rubs on light color undergarments will wash off over time, but beware of sofas and car seats as they might be trickier to clean up.

Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
14½ (Small)
15½ (Medium)
16½ (Large)
17½ (X-Large)
18½ (XX-Large)

RETAIL $279.95

Soon available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2016

The Appaloosa Shirt, NOS HBT stripe denim, Sportsman Fall 2015, Made in USA.

Appaloosa Mister Freedom Sportsman 2015

Appaloosa Mister Freedom Sportsman 2015

 

Appaloosa Mister Freedom Sportsman 2015

Appaloosa Mister Freedom Sportsman 2015

The “Appaloosa shirt”, HBT stripe denim NOS
Sportsman Fall 2015

We hope your are having an amazing summer. About that time of the year when Fall drops for us.
First installment of Fall 2015 in our growing ‘The Sportsman’ catalog is a shirt pattern introduced during Fall 2013, the Appaloosa, an internet sensation in the Acadian tux community.

After a cup of smart juice, we settled on ONE denim lot this time around, not four. That New Old Stock denim is also an old acquaintance for us, as we already used part of that lot for the Spring 2015 ‘Workman Shirt’. This fabric is a dark pinstripe herringbone twill 2×1 denim of about 8 oz., with an initial raw fabric sheen. The HBT pattern is more clearly visible on the inside of the fabric. The pinstripes on the face are very subtle. Although blackish/grayish-looking when brand new, this fabric will naturally fade to blue with repeat wash-wear cycles.

For the design, we have combined several details of vintage western and work shirts, diverting a bit from the traditional cowboy cut denim western yoke numbers. As introduced a few years back with the Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts, our Appaloosa Shirt features painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts. Our front yoke is of a vintage ‘Roebuck’ type rather than the usual western arcuate style. The pocket flaps are locked in the yoke.
The Appaloosa also combines two stitching colors, yellow and orange, in what appears to be a random pattern. The top collar button on this edition is the metal debossed mfsc type we often use for our Sportsman line.

The Sportsman ‘Appaloosa Shirt’ is designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage workwear and western shirting.

FABRIC:
HBT stripe denim: 100% cotton herringbone twill denim, subtle vertical stripe design, dark indigo color, about 8 Oz. Origin USA.

DETAILS:
* Slim ‘western shirt’ type silhouette and fit.
* Painted metal DOT snaps. The white paint will chip with age.
* Vintage ‘Roebuck’ type front yoke
* Western style back yoke.
* Two chest pockets, snap flaps, locked into yoke construction.
* Double snap cuffs.
* Orange and yellow 100% cotton stitching combination, high stitch count.
* Double chainstitch construction with green color thread “Sportsman” inside signature.
* Olive green cotton popeline side gusset, chainstitch run offs.
* Original mfsc “The Sportsman” woven rayon label.
* Made in USA

SIZING/WASHING:
This shirt comes RAW/Un-washed and will shrink to tagged size. We recommend an original 20-30mn cold soak, machine spin dry then line dry.
I usually wear a Medium in mfsc shirting and I am a comfortable MEDIUM in this ‘Appaloosa’ HBT stripe denim shirt. I had to size up to a Large with the original Fall 2013 edition of the Appaloosa Shirt, but this one is true-to-size.

Please refer to sizing chart for raw/rinsed measurements. We fully washed and partially machine dried these samples, so our measurements reflect the maximum  shrinkage that can be expected.

Appaloosa HBT Sizing Chart

Appaloosa HBT Sizing Chart

Available RAW/Un-washed
Sizes S, M, L, XL, XXL
Retail $279.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above, such as “Why aren’t those half-selvedge Buckaroos half price?!?
Thank you for your support.