West Side Story. The End.
“El Americano” Waistcoat
Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection
We introduced the concept behind our “Viva la Revolución” mfsc Collection during Spring 2013.
For the first chapter of this on-going saga for Fall 2013, let’s welcome a new character, el Americano...
Aptly nicknamed due to his whereabouts North of the Rio Grande, not for his barista skills, our gringo fought alongside Mexican revolutionaries during the 1910-1920 Revolution.
More often for financial gratification than ideological convictions, foreign soldiers of fortune from around the World joined the ranks of the Maderistas, Villistas and other rebel armies. They earned nicknames as colorful as ‘Dynamite Slim’ or ‘El Diablo’, which allowed them to keep the greetings of an introduction brief…
El Americano was special. Unlike some of his compañeros of the ‘Gringo Rag-Tag Battalion‘, and although a feared fighter, he fancied being stylishly clad at all times. As others remarked on his unlikely field attire, he would retort: “Hombre, I always dress to kill.”
Someone sneered, once. Just once.
Such the poet was El Americano.
Anyways, back to the reality of 2013…
Our “El Americano” waistcoat was inspired by several vintage early 1900’s European fancy pieces. Its lapel style is often a trademark of early Old West portrait photography. The pattern is a combination of fancy tailoring tricks and details.
We have developed no less than 4 entirely different fabrics for this waistcoat, all milled and dyed in Japan exclusively for mfsc. These options are:
a) Brown Duck, golden brown cotton sateen back.
b) Grey Covert Stripe, black cotton sateen back.
c) Indigo dyed Corduroy, black cotton sateen back.
The last developed fabric is an indigo yarn covert twill that was originally the lining of a pair of gentlemen’s trousers from the 1890’s. The most unlikely sight, although I’ve seen quite my share of unusual textiles used as linings in early tailoring. I always love discovering ‘hidden treasures’ when opening up a vintage garment, such as a ‘crazy’ lining in a formal piece. They were often not a fashion statement, rather the need to use up fabric left over from a previous project, at times when discarding perfectly fine supplies was not a National sport.
Vintage trousers lining
This 8.5 Oz. selvedge indigo fabric is the inner lining of “El Americano”, for its three options.
The outer back piece is a tightly woven 100% cotton sateen, matching the body.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in small ethically run factories in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by early European style tailored waistcoats typical of early Old West attire.
a) Brown Duck : selvedge 100% cotton canvas, 13 Oz.
The inside part of the yarn being lighter in color than the outside of the yarn (same as that of the 1930’s hunting jacket with its amazing patina that inspired it) this fabric will age nicely with repeat wear.
b) Grey Covert Stripe: selvedge 60% cotton and 40% linen heavy canvas with a random stripe pattern. The random repeat makes this fabric look halfway between a covert (salt & pepper) and stripe type textile. Technically 12 Oz. it feels heavier because of the yarn gauge. It takes an entire day to mill about 17 meters of that fabric, on old shuttle looms. The factory was thrilled…
Fabric inspired by a vintage 1943 bag from the Swiss military. Yes, we look everywhere for inspiration. The only place off limit being what other contemporary brands do.
c) Indigo Corduroy: Mid wale 100% cotton corduroy. 14.5 Oz. Indigo vat dyed.
* Slim silhouette, Old West waistcoat style. Angled front panels and curved back vented one-piece panel.
* Small round lapel
* Off-set shoulder construction
* High buttoned style (7 buttons).
* Three front pockets
* 100% cotton sateen tonal back panel.
* Underarm gusset.
* Engraved coconut wood buttons, aka ivory nut, aka corozo (and no, not chorizo as my spell check suggests.)
* Full adjustable cinch back with French vintage New Old Stock metal slide buckle.
* Unbleached cotton sail cloth pocket lining.
*100% cotton tonal stitching.
All fabrics will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold soak and hang dry.
The reason for the original cold soak/dry is purely aesthetic. I like the natural torque/twisting of the fabric that gets rid of that desirable fresh-off-the-shelf look. As your waistcoat dries, fold and shape the collar to your liking, for a skinnier or fatter lapel (see the difference on the fit pix.)
For the Indigo Corduroy “El Americano” waistcoat, some crocking is to be expected when pairing with light colored garments, or sleeping face down on a fancy white sofa fully clothed.
Indigo ‘stains’ from rubbing wash off eventually.
I am usually a 38/medium and wear a 38 “El Americano” waistcoat.
True to size but refer to chart for rinsed/hang dry measurements.
Do not use hot water or machine dryer as this might result in excessive shrinkage.
a) Brown Duck $439.95
b) Grey Covert Stripe $439.95
c) Indigo Corduroy $459.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Call the store at 323-653-2014 with any questions not answered above, or mail email@example.com
Thank you for your support.
“HACENDADO Waistcoat” Mister Freedom® MFSC
‘Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2012
Introducing the third addition to our three piece Hacendado suit, with matching trousers and sack coat.
Coincidentally, the King showed up at the store today, to try a few things on. A new movie on the horizon maybe? A follow up to “Charro”?
Let’s not get lost in conjecture, as EP has now left the building. Glad we were able to snap a candid photo, when he came out of the dressing room.
We’ll just mark this April 1rst as a memorable day, thankyaverymuch…
We shamelessly borrowed and adopted the pattern of our “Faro Waistcoat” and made this vest in three fabric options, developed for this season:
* Stripe: Tan and indigo dyed yarns plain weave pinstripe pattern, a crispy blend of 55% hemp and 45% cotton, 6.8 oz., solid tan selvedge, inspired by a textile swatch from a 1930′s vintage waistcoat.
* Homespun: Natural/earth tones dyed yarns plain weave textile, a heavier blend of 68% hemp and 32% cotton, 11 oz., solid white selvedge, inspired by a turn of the century homespun French textile from a vintage South-West of France farmer blouse.
* Baja Denim: Lighter shade indigo dyed denim, 2×1 twill, 100% cotton, 6.5 oz., inspired by a specific indigo shade typical of Mexican artisan dyers of the time, selected from several vintage textiles of the area.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co., a limited edition.
PATTERN: An original MFSC®, inspired by late 1800’s gents’ waistcoats. High buttoned, small fold lapel, slim snug silhouette.
a) ‘Stripe’ option: 6.8 oz selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ (as opposed to a ‘floating’ lining) 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
b) ‘Homespun’ option: 11 oz. selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Front panels lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline (unlined rear panels for this option). Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
c) ‘Baja Denim’ option: 6.5 oz. indigo dyed denim 2×1 twill, solid white selvedge, 100% cotton. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
FRONT PANEL and UNDER COLLAR lining: 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline.
BACK PANEL: Tightly woven all cotton sateen.
* Intricate early waistcoat panel construction. Tailor made style.
* Adjustable back cinch strap with French New Old Stock (NOS) metal slide buckle.
* Eight button front, brown corrozo wood, aka ‘coconut wood’.
* Two front lower welt pockets
* 100% cotton thread tonal stitching.
* MFSC woven rayon label concealed under the back strap (an old tailoring detail on early custom tailor-made waistcoats, that usually included the customer name and the date, hand written)
PACKAGING: An original MF® printed denim draw string bag, reusable as a grocery bag, hand-made in our Los Angeles studio.
All three fabric options come RAW (unwashed). We recommend cold soak and line dry, which will result in minimal shrinkage and no color loss. All Hacendado waistcoats will ultimately shrink to tagged size. Fuller shrinkage will be obtained with gentle machine cycle and low heat dryer, at your own risks.
The hemp/cotton blends will retain the desirable wrinkle effect typical of linen type textiles and ‘tropical’ look.
Refer to sizing chart below for approximate measurements:
BAJA Hacendado Waistcoat
HOMESPUN Hacendado Waistcoat
Size 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Call 323-653-2014 or email firstname.lastname@example.org to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.
FARO WAISTCOAT (Men of the Frontier MFSC FW2012)
Moving right along our journey West… Introducing the FARO WAISTCOAT, as the second installment of the “Men of the Frontier” MFSC Fall 2012 Collection, following its original Spring 2012 chapter. The first Fall 2012 installment was the Frontier Chinos.
This time we took our hombres away from the open range or work place, and into the dark oil lamp lit saloons of the early American Frontier. Gamblers’ halls and other fine whiskey pouring establishments were the main source of social entertainment for the hard living bunch at the edge of the Old World and the New.
In comes our Faro waistcoat… With its origin in 1700’s France, Faro became a popular single deck card game in the American West of the 1800’s. Until it was gradually supplanted by the game of Poker in the early 1910’s, Faro had been responsible for small fortunes lost and won, and a few gun fights.
Waistcoats were a permanent feature in old period photography, at times when looking your best in public involved tucking and buttoning up your shirt, along with wearing your britches in such a manner that only you knew the maker of your skivvies. A dress code seemed to often apply to most, whether coming off a horse, out of a mine, bank, jail… and no matter how wealthy or educated you were.
Lest I drift any further, let’s mention that the design of our Faro waistcoat is inspired by a late 1800’s vintage French silk velvet vest, high buttoned and narrow collar, that could have been sported by a card dealer, gambler or gunslinger in a lively 1905 saloon. We combined several elements of early vest patterns, outer and inner panels and piecing, and came up with this, if we may say so ourselves, elegant gentleman waistcoat.
As always, being an expert at losing your pay bucking the tiger or playing an extra on Deadwood is not required to wear our “Men of the Frontier” gear. Blending clothes tastefully is key to having your own non-contrived style, staying clear from the ‘costume’ look, although all that is of course very subjective.
If we don’t recommend pairing this Faro waistcoat with a track suit and Crocs, we leave it up to you to make it look good with denim jeans, cotton shirt, trousers from your existing wardrobe… The versatile collar can be folded for a deeper cut look. I often like wearing vests/jackets with only the top two buttons closed, a trick often seen in vintage photography, allowing easier reach to the trousers pockets.
Two fabric options are available (apples and oranges, impossible to compare.) Both textiles were woven in Japan, in limited batches, exclusively for MFSC®.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted as a one-time limited batch by Sugar Cane Co in Japan.
PATTERN: An original MFSC®, inspired by late 1800’s gents’ waistcoats. High buttoned, small lapel, slim snug silhouette.
FRONT PANEL: Two options
a) Deep rich navy blue color, 100% cotton corduroy, midwale (9 wale/inch), 11 Oz. Woven in Japan.
b) “Gun Powder” black (between field grey and dark laurel green), wide HBT (herringbone twill), selvedge, 20% Cotton/80% Linen blend, 15 Oz. Woven in Japan
BACK PANEL: Black all cotton sateen.
INNER LINNING: Combination all cotton HBT (ochre color) exclusively woven for MFSC®, and indigo blue cotton poplin.
* Intricate early waistcoat panel construction. Tailor made style.
* Back cinch strap with French New Old Stock (NOS) metal slide buckle.
* Eight button front, brown corrozo.
* Two front welt pockets
* 100% cotton thread tonal stitching.
PACKAGING: Sturdy cardboard box with MF® original artwork. Please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING: Both fabric options come raw/unwashed.
After shrinkage, both fabrics will shrink to the same specs.
We recommend an initial cold rinse and line dry. The vests fit true to size. I am a 38 and wear a 38 in the Faro vest.
Just as you wouldn’t boil a fancy suit, please treat with care or take to your environmentally friendly dry cleaner for future cleaning.
Sizes 36 (small), 38 (medium), 40 (large), 42 (xlarge), 44 (xxlarge)
Call 323-653-2014 or mail email@example.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Thank you for the support, friends.
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Canvas RANGE VEST
Moving right along with the “Men of the Frontier” Spring 2012 collection updates, here is our third installment, the canvas “RANGE VEST”.
I like vests. Whether part of a 3 piece suit or as a mismatch piece, you soon appreciate the extra pockets and extra layer. Vests are very practical additions to daily outfits.
Since I am not a big fan of hunting vest (they look too ‘hunting’ to me) I wanted a mix of outdoor ruggedness and Gentleman’s tailor-made garb; so no rear ‘game pocket’ here. By mixing outdoor and indoor, open range and saloon, combining canvas fabric/metal donut buttons hardware/wrap pockets with traditional satin belted back panel and a slender cut, we made a waistcoat that takes from both worlds.
Inspired by the pattern of a vintage 1930’s French outdoor vest found a while back, we made the Range Vest in the same fabric options than our Chaparral Blouse: Cotton-linen canvas in Brown and Indigo dyed.
By the way, the silly dude ranch fit pix (I’m wearing a size 38), as always, are not to be taken too seriously; they are just here for the kick. A DenimBro compañero has mentioned that we picked the wrong cactus (thanks Mr. Randal. No, not Josh, Mark) Of course, it is was no news to you that the Euphorbia Ammak in the photos background is of Western Saudi Arabia origin, nowhere close to the American Frontier 😉
But I’m rambling, here are the…
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by both the open range and early saloon imagery. Cowhand meets Faro dealer.
FABRIC: The Range Vest comes in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches, both options are inspired by rare turn of the century French workwear textiles from our archives.
a) MFSC Brown Canvas: A blend of 80% linen and 20% cotton selvedge canvas, 12.5 Oz., in a “cachou“/ brown Duck color.
b) MFSC Indigo Canvas: A blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton selvedge canvas, 8 Oz., Indigo dyed.
* Original multiple patch pocketing, six options to store your silver dollars.
* slender silhouette.
* 100% cotton sateen back panel with cinching belt (beige for the brown canvas and black for the Indigo canvas.)
* Gun metal color donut button front and pocket closures.
* Original rayon woven MFSC labeling on inside bottom of the button placket.
* No open seams or visible overlock.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the RANGE VEST comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
Both canvas options come RAW (un-washed). Both fabrics are un-sanforized and will shrink down to the same fit after several wash/soak/dry cycles. The Indigo canvas shrinks ‘faster’ than the Duck canvas. I recommend doing an original cold soak and hung dry. See how it fits and take it from there. With rinsing/wearing, the fabrics will shrink/stretch back and forth for a while and settle eventually.
DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the indigo dye, bleeding is expected with the INDIGO canvas option Range Vest. You WILL get some color rubbing if you wear a light color shirt under it, or light color jacket over it. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash.
Sizing chart with raw and rinsed measurements coming soon.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Retail: $ 429.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail firstname.lastname@example.org or email@example.com get yours while they last. We ship internationally. Much obliged for your support, Compañeros 😉
Our first MFSC Apaches Fall delivery is in!
If you’ve missed the Spring pitch, here it is again (if you know it by heart, skip the skit and scroll down for the low down on the SPECS)
The Paris of the Belle Époque (1900s) saw the emergence of a certain type of street outcasts. They lived in secret dens in the seedy and dimmed outskirts of the City of Lights, abhorred honest labor, hunted the Faubourgs and Quartier de Halles, and danced in local Guinguettes and dives, decked out in flamboyant outfits.
They were called Les Apaches…
Issued from the French lower working class, with a lack of education and absence of Future, they regrouped in loosely organized neighborhood gangs. Abiding by their own hoodlum code of honor, they woke up late, spoke the obscure slang Jare, and wore specific flashy clothes. Their dandy accoutrement combined with intimidating attitudes imposed both respect and fear from the Parisians and their police.
For 30 years, Paris’ Apaches gangs marked their territories by terrorizing honest bourgeois citizens, committing petty larceny, pimping and street fighting their lives away. For those who had ducked the knife and the bullet that bared their name or the ravage of the “Grande Guerre” (WW1), it was the inevitable outcome of Biribi or the Bagne de Cayenne.
In the 1920’s one a many high society dame was spotted mingling with charismatic Apache groups in local Java dance halls, letting her hair down in a famous Dance Apache, immortalized later by Hollywood (“Charlie Chan in Paris”, 1935) and several Broadway Shows. The French movie Casque d’Or (1953) relates a true story of a famous Apache event that took place in 1905.
Bourgeois newspapers of the period and universal fascination with the underworld turned the reign of the Apaches into a mix of myth and imagery that will forever mark the Paris of the 1900s to 1930s…
MFSC Fall 2011, APACHES Collection: Gilet de Ville métisse
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by early French tailor-made suiting.
FABRIC: INDIGO Métisse: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light… Milled in Japan in limited batch.
This fabric is the same fabric the veste ouvrier is made of, so it will fade to this with wear.
LINING: Fully lined with 100% cotton stripe MFSC ticking.
BACK PANEL: Original MFSC lightweight black moleskine, all cotton, 5 oz.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s). Five button front.
* Limited Edition.
* Four front slash pockets
* Two inside concealed chest flap pockets.
* Traditional darted back piece, with cinch back belt. Original french NOS metal sharp-prong buckle (DISCLAIMER: Will scratch car seats, sofas etc…) The buckle is removable and you can switch to one that fits your needs (a “safer” metal buckle, used for the Japanese production, will be found in one of the pockets.)
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle, no overlock nor chainstitch. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: The gilet comes RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer, this gilet de ville, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF®.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized and labelled in french…
92 (small) Chest about 18 1/2” across, after rinse/dry.
97 (medium) Chest about 20” across, after rinse/dry.
102 (large) Chest about 21” across, after rinse/dry.
107 (X-Large) Chest about 22” across, after rinse/dry.
Some not-so-serious fit pix here
Gilet Métisse Sizing Chart
Designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes S, M, L, XL
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email firstname.lastname@example.org or email@example.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
We thank you again for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like.