 
Gilet Gadjo, sienna brown 8.5 Oz. cotton moleskin.
“Gyspy Blues” mfsc collection Fall 2017
Made in Japan.
Our elegant-yet-rugged Gilet Gadjo, previously released in indigo cotton-linen HBT and stripe covert cloth, makes a come back this Fall!
The pattern of our classic vest is inspired by 1910’s-1930’s French Gentlemen’ waistcoats. The shawl lapel, fine sateen back, cinch back strap and fancy lining make for a choice addition to the discerning gadjo‘s closet. We took the dandy vibe a notch down by donning our gilet a set of donut-shape metal buttons as front closure, hardware parts usually reserved for vintage utility garments.
For this Fall edition, we opted for cotton moleskin, a staple of vintage French workwear fabrics. A small batch was milled in Japan from an antique textile swatch. We chose a rich sienna brown color, with low colorfast properties. Some of the photos feature a once-cold-soaked specimen, next to a fully washed and worn sample, for an idea of fabric evolution.
If black and navy blue are typical colors of old-school French workwear, brown and cream moleskin garments were quite popular with the Gardians of Camargue, the gritty Provençal cowboys dreamed-up by the legendary Old-West-obsessed Folco de Baroncelli in the early 1900’s. In the old days, these famed horsemen of the delta of the Rhone, Southern France, typically wore moleskine boot-cut riding pants, with the characteristic contrast piping running down the leg seam. A matching moleskin vest, flamboyant plaid or printed cotton shirt, low-crown western-style hat, and a pair of Camarguaises (local traditional rough-out leather boots) often completed these work outfits.
(For the commun thread between Gardians and our Gypsy Blues story, Camargue’s most iconic commune is Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer, a notorious annual pilgrimage destination for Gypsies coming from the four corners of Europe.)
Familiar to the European vintage clothing aficionado, French waistcoats from the 1920’s-30’s typically feature a stern shell (often black wool serge) and an unusual inner lining (fancy printed fabric probably left-over from a custom shirting project). It is not uncommon to come across such tailor-made vintage specimen with a formal appearance and an unusual inner lining.
Digging through the archives, we found limited NOS yardages of forgotten textile goodness from past mfsc collections, and have used then as linings on all iterations of the Gilet Gadjo. The fancy off-white calico-print cotton sateen twill featured on the moleskin version was originally milled for our 2011 Les Apaches collection, but was never used. Indigo-dyed cotton poplin inner panels complete the lining. A classic amber brown cotton sateen back adds to the elegant vintage vibe.
The Gilet Gadjo is designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE Co.
SPECS:
FABRICS:
* Front panels: 100% cotton moleskin, 8.5 Oz., sienna brown color with low colorfast properties. Milled in Japan.
* Back panel: 100% cotton sateen back, amber brown color.
* Inside lining: Fancy 100% cotton off-white sateen twill with vintage-style calico-print, accented with contrast indigo-dyed poplin panels.
DETAILS:
* Original mfsc pattern inspired by fancy 1910’s-30’s European tailor-made Gentlemen’ waistcoats.
* Elegant and traditional silhouette, to compliment higher-waisted trousers or blue jeans.
* Shawl lapel.
* Chest darts and early waistcoat gussets and paneling.
* Fancy calico-print off-white cotton sateen inner lining.
* Sateen back, amber brown color.
* Cinch back strap, with vintage-style metal prong buckle, removable for washing.
* Three welt pockets.
* Utilitarian unmarked ‘donut’ metal brass buttons.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The Gilet Gadjo moleskin comes raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual method, initial cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
If the general consensus was to size down on the Spring 2017 run of this pattern, both covert and HBT cotton/linen editions, this moleskin version is rather true to size. I wear a fitted 36 in covert and HBT, and a fitted 38 in moleskin (rinsed/line dry).
Please refer to chart to figure which size works for you. Take your favorite waistcoat, measure it laying flat (as the chart’s b/w photo suggests), and see which size/measurements combo most-closely matches.
If confused, email sales@misterfreedom.com.
CARE:
We recommend hand washing or machine wash on gentle/delicate cycle. Cold water, eco-friendly detergent, spin dry and line dry. DO NOT launder on “Heavy Wash” setting, as the metal buttons might get snagged and damage the garment.
REMOVE metal prong buckle from the back strap before laundering, it is fastened by a button.
The sienna brown moleskin fabric intentionally boasts low colorfast properties, and will lose its original sheen after a few wash/wear cycles. It will fade quite rapidly, according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available raw/unwashed.
Sizes
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
Retail: $379.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017
 Young Gypsy (photo Lucien Clergue, 1959), courtesy Atelier Lucien Clergue ©1959  Cristóbal De La Marina Del Rey, with duende ©1966 
 Caravans (Vincent Van Gogh, 1888) 
Gilet Gadjo, indigo cotton/linen HBT & cotton covert stripe.
“Gypsy Blues” mfsc collection Spring 2017
Made in Japan
The Romani term “gadjo” refers to folks of non-Romani origin. It is today quite a common colloquialism in Southern France, and is used to designate a male individual (as in ‘guy’ or ‘dude’).
“Vise-moi un peu le gadjo!” (Check out that dude!).
Chances are you could hear that one a few times, should you find yourself around the Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer on May 24th, walking around town sporting Mister Freedom®’s latest.
The pattern of the MF® GYPSY BLUES Gilet Gadjo is inspired by 1910’s-1930’s French Gentlemen’ waistcoats. The shawl lapel, fine sateen back, cinch back strap and fancy lining make for an elegant addition to the discerning gadjo‘s closet. We took the dandy vibe a notch down by donning our gilet a set of donut-shape metal buttons as front closure, hardware parts usually reserved for vintage workwear-type garments.
The two fabric options were introduced with the release of our Veste Belleville. An indigo-dyed cotton/linen HBT (the same sturdy fabric of our Waterfront Coat, indigo-dyed to a dark and rich hue), a textile inspired by early French firemen uniform of the 1900’s, and a 100% cotton stripe covert fabric, a sort of heather charcoal grey salt & pepper with a subtle woven stripe pattern, developed from a vintage swatch of 1930’s French workwear NOS textile. Both fabrics were milled in Japan.
Familiar to the EU vintage clothing aficionado, French waistcoats from the 1920’s-30’s typically feature a stern shell (often black wool serge) and an unusual inner lining (fancy printed fabric probably left-over from a custom shirting project). It is not uncommon to come across such tailor-made vintage specimen with a formal appearance and a flamboyant inner lining.
Digging through the archives, we found limited NOS yardages of forgotten textile goodness from past mfsc collections, and decided to use that as linings on this project. Both indigo discharge calicoes are from our MEN of THE FRONTIER days, namely the Apache and Pueblo Trade Shirt.
But, for heaven’ snakes, what do American cowboys have to do with French gypsies you axe me?..
The relevance would be Old-West-obsessed Folco de Baroncelli and the Gardians of Camargue, aka ze French cowboyz. The famed horsemen of the delta of the Rhone, Southern France, typically wear shirts with traditional calico-type motifs from Provence. Camargue’s most iconic commune is Saintes-Marie-de-la-Mer, pilgrimage destination for Gypsies from the four corners of Europe.
Voila the common thread.
The Gilet Gadjo is designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE Co.
Credits: Lucien Clergue‘s 1959 photograph courtesy of Lucien Clergue Atelier.
SPECS:
FABRICS:
Option A
* Front panels: A sturdy 15 Oz. blend of 80% linen and 20% cotton indigo-dyed HBT textile, selvedge, milled in Japan.
Please note that some light streaking can be observed on some garment panels at times. This is due to the nature of indigo-dyeing this specific heavy textured fabric. This is not considered as a defect, and will subside with wear. This indigo-dyed fabric is very light sensitive and its hue will evolve rapidly.
* Back panel: 100% cotton sateen back, lined with indigo discharge print poplin, mfsc “Pueblo” calico. Solid indigo-dyed fine cotton poplin front panel lining.
Option B
* Front panels: A lighter 9 Oz. covert woven stripe 100% cotton fabric, milled in Japan.
* Back panel: 100% cotton sateen back, lined with indigo discharge print poplin, mfsc “Apache” calico. Solid indigo-dyed fine cotton poplin front panel lining.
DETAILS:
* Original mfsc pattern inspired by 1910’s-30’s European tailor-made fancy waistcoats.
* Elegant and traditional silhouette, to match higher-waisted trousers or blue jeans.
* Shawl lapel.
* Chest darts and early waistcoat gussets and paneling.
* Fancy indigo discharge-print calico poplin lining.
* Sateen back, oxidized black color.
* Cinch back strap, with vintage-style metal prong buckle.
* Three welt pockets.
* Utilitarian unmarked ‘donut’ metal buttons (copper for the indigo, brass for the covert)
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
Both fabric options come raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual method, initial cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
I opted to size down on both the indigo HBT and the grey covert. I usually wear 38 (Medium) in mfsc jackets, but went with a 36 (small) with the Gilet Gadjo, for an old school fit and high-waisted silhouette. The fit photos shows both sizes/fits, 36 and 38.
Please refer to chart to figure which size works for you. If still confused, email sales@misterfreedom.com
 
CARE:
Indigo HBT: When needed, hand wash or machine wash on delicate, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Turn inside-out to avoid marbling of the fabric. Line dry ONLY.
DO NOT use heat dryer as this will leave marbling lines and set un-natural creases to the indigo HBT linen fabric.
Covert stripe: Machine wash on delicate, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
DISCLAIMER: Use caution when laundering, as the metal buckle of the cinch strap has sharp prongs that could get snagged and damage this (or other) garment(s).
Available raw/unwashed.
Sizes
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
Retail:
Indigo HBT: $399.95
Covert Stripe: $379.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017
 He’s a natural  Notice the special gas cap model, designed by MI6 Quartermaster “Q” The “Continental Vest”
NOS Cotton-Linen twills, Charcoal, Slate Grey & Indigo Moss Blue.
Sportsman Collection Spring 2016
Moving right along in our Continental trilogy, the latest grouping added to the Made in USA Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog for Spring 2016, here is the Continental Vest. The third original pattern of our recently-released suiting effort complements the Continental Trousers and Continental Sportcoat.
Our Continental Vest design is inspired by several vintage waist coats, and more specifically by an original 1950’s-60’s British-made specimen. Unlike previously-released Mister Freedom® waistcoats mostly taking from turn-of-the-Century to 1930’s models and featuring contrasting cotton sateen backs, the Continental Vest carries an early sixties tailor-made vibe with its matching fabric back design.
This elegant six-button front garment features two slanted box-pleat patch pockets with flaps, and a full cinch back belt. In addition to the charcoal and slate grey cotton-linen twill fabric options offered with the Continental Sportcoat, we are also releasing the Continental Vest in Indigo Moss Blue. It is the same attractive denim-like fabric originally introduced with the Continental Trousers, a New Old Stock slubby 11 Oz. crosshatch twill, 70% cotton – 30% linen blend that got black ops spooks red with envy. The Fashion industry, on the other hand, does envy our “Indigo Moss Blue” terminology, which is indeed one of our proudest semantic achievement to date.
Please note that said-Indigo Moss Blue option features the 1rst type Continental lining, an ivory white 100% cotton plain weave with a woven blue stripe. A slightly different NOS woven stripe fabric was used for both the charcoal and slate grey vests. To accommodate mixing and matching within the Continental family, this handsome new lining fabric is very similar in appearance to its original companion. The subtle variation typifies the perks associated with opting for limited New Old Stock fabric on full-fledged garment manufacturing projects.
Using vintage NOS fabrics not only satisfies our known appetite for limited edition runs, but also matches a desire to limit the carbon footprint of Mister Freedom® seasonal offerings, however insignificant of a gesture it might seem.
Speaking of H2O, our vest is washable. But be aware that the cotton-linen fabric will torque and shrink, and the stitching will pucker to a roping effect. This ‘wrinkled’ look is an acquired taste, and some might prefer a freshly pressed ‘clean’ look instead easily obtained with professional dry-cleaning.
The Continental Vest is quite versatile and will adapt to the wearer’s own personal style, according to what it will be paired with. It can be dressed-up with Continental Trousers and vest, dressed-down with blue jeans or chinos, buttoned-up (don’t forget to leave the bottom button unbuttoned) or worn open, etc…
Ultimately, and with such wardrobe must-haves as the Continental Trousers, Sportcoat and Vest, there will be no rest for the delusional on-the-go Int’l Man of Action, heading out on an impossible mission to get groceries.
Oh, and don’t forget your Space Pen. One never knows.
The Continental Sportcoat is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERNS:
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage European waistcoats, notably an original 1950’s-60’s tailor-made British specimen.
FABRICS:
A) Charcoal Grey twill: New Old Stock, 60% cotton – 40% linen, 8 Oz. denim twill with a probable Italian origin.
B) Slate Grey twill: New Old Stock, 60% cotton – 40% linen, 8 Oz. denim twill, also with a probable Italian origin.
C) Indigo Moss Blue denim twill: New Old Stock, 70% cotton – 30% linen, 11 Oz. denim twill, also with a probable Italian origin.
Lining: Two similar types of fancy New Old Stock 100% cotton fabrics, natural white with woven blue stripe.
DETAILS:
* Six-button front.
* Two slanted box-pleat patch pockets with buttoned flaps.
* Full matching back with cinch strap, European-style metal buckle.
* Fancy corozo wood buttons.
* Full lining, woven stripe suit-lining fabric, no open seams.
* Made in USA, baby.
SIZING/FIT:
This explains how we size our garments.
The Continental Vest comes raw/unwashed. We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. For the three fabric options, the tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. All fabric options will shrink to roughly the same measurements.
Please note that it is the nature of cotton-linen blend textiles to wrinkle and slightly stretch back and forth with each laundry/wear cycle. For example, freshly laundered linen garments fit tighter in the morning than at the end of the day. If you prefer a clean, pressed look following the initial soaking process, the Continental Vest can be steamed or professionally pressed.
I opted for a Size 38 in all options of the Continental Vest. This is my usual size in mfsc top garments. However, I have done a full rinse cycle with the Vests, and used a heat dryer for about five minutes to get the shrinkage that fitted my tastes.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry. Further shrinkage and creasing will be achieved with full wash cycle (on delicate) and a heat dryer cycle.
-
-
Charcoal Grey
-
-
Slate Grey
-
-
Indigo Moss Blue
CARE:
Hand wash or machine wash unbuttoned on delicate, cold water with minimal environmentally friendly detergent. Line dry.
NOTE: Full washing cycle and machine dry will result in maximum shrinkage, to be experimented with care and at owner’s risk.
Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Retail $ 249.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, fine retailers around the World, and our Los Angeles ol’ pile o’ rags.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2016
Mister Freedom® “The Sportsman”
mfsc Spring 2016
Made in USA
Available sometime in 2016, from www.misterfreedom.com, fine retailers around the World, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Thank you for your support.
MF®
OG-107 Man’s, Vest, Down
“The Sportsman” Fall 2014
Following the smashing debut of our OG-107 cotton sateen-back Sportsman Chinos, here is another MF® garment in the same Mil-Specs fabric.
Alert the media, it’s our first ever down vest! We had an opportunity for a down-filled garment a while back, but manufacturing was in China, and I had passed my comfort zone quota with the MF® x Palladium Palladenim experience, however pleased with the results.
After some research, we sourced a domestic qualified manufacturing facility, a place basically looking like a giant pillow fight.
If you are skilled at deciphering the Country of Origin of goods while navigating on-line stores, you might assume that there are not that many places manufacturing down-filled garments in the USA. Thankfully, in 2014, there are still a few domestic options left:
Respectable companies such as Sierra Designs or Nunatak offer a USA-made selection of down vests.
For the crafty types and bench-made fans, there’s always the DIY route. Start here to select your filling of choice.
Then you got the obscurely-named “OG-107 Vest, Man’s, Down”, the latest addition to the Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog.
Our down vest is inspired by 1960’s-70’s outdoor garments and military gear, another case of civvies in Mil-Spec fabrics.
The shell is a “4/1 (four warp up, one weft down) 9 Oz. cotton back sateen”, similar to the fabric of the US Army M-51 field jackets, as introduced with our OG-107 cotton sateen-back chinos.
We opted for a rip-stop 100% cotton lining in a slightly different shade of Army green, for a subtle tonal contrast.
Don’t miss this helpful (often hysterical) perspective on the subject of which enigmatic green color was actually used by the US Army during WW2.
For more daltonian confusion, dig this excerpt from the Jan/Feb 1952 issue of the “Quartermaster Review”:
…” A further consideration in the matter of color of the general wear uniform is the fact that while the shade (O.D. #33) of the present service uniform was originally selected as a camouflage color for a field uniform, this type of color is no longer regarded as satisfactory from this standpoint. Research undertaken during World War II led to the adoption of a darker green color (O.D. #7) as the basic color of the combat uniform. This color has lately been modified slightly and a somewhat deeper shade with a slightly different cast (Olive Green #107) but otherwise very close to O.D. #7, has been adopted as the basic color for camouflage of the soldier’s combat uniform. Accordingly, there is no requirement for shade O.D #33 from a camouflage standpoint. Without this advantage, the only other basis for retaining this color would be a definite preference for this shade for the service uniform; such preference has not been strongly evidenced.“…
But again, this is a civilian garment, as we leave the reenactment gear to the serious guys.
So, with some older NOS signal orange cotton twill from the MF® stock, we added a ‘survival’ touch to our OD down vest, matching the vibe of our on-going “Sea Hunt” Collection. Both collar facing and inside pockets display that orange twill, bringing subbtle contrasting accents to this utilitarian-looking vest.
When stranded in dark woods , signal your presence by lifting that collar, should Elmer Fudd get overly trigger-happy.
Incomiiiiiing!!!
Our vest is quite fluffy. The filling is 90% down and 10% feathers. Overtime and with normal wear, the puffiness will lessen but this is a garment that definitely looks better on slender body types. I, myself, tend to look more like the Michelin man than Gary Cooper with it, granted the vest might not be the only culprit.
This down-filled garment is patterned with a vintage silhouette in mind, preferably worn with mid to high rise type bottoms. The lower rounded rear panel dips slightly, while the front of the garment follows the natural waist, typical of 50’s-60’s outdoor vests.
That length might not be ideal for those partial to the low-waist plumber’s look. Additionally, this vest might have too much of a Vietnam “FLAK Jacket” vibe for some with more modern aesthetics. Add to that a collar hinting to a buoyancy device and I believe I’ve sealed the deal.
But Travis Bickle and I like this vest, and not just because it makes for an excellent airplane/camping pillow.
“That’s right there sizzlechest, whatever you need sold I’ll sell it. I’m silly.”
The “OG-107 Vest, Man’s, Down” is designed and manufactured in the USA, by Mister Freedom® and Frank Rizzo, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, with fabrics loomed in Japan or vintage NOS.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by vintage by 1960’s-70’s outdoor garments and military gear.
FABRIC:
Shell: Mil-specs Olive Green #107 shade (grayish-green) 4/1 cotton back sateen, milled in Japan.
(Pantone Color approx reference would be 450 U)
Lining: 100% cotton rip-stop, (dark OD shade #41, or is it #31? #7?…), milled in Japan.
Collar facing/ inside pockets: Vintage NOS 100% cotton selvedge twill, signal orange, origin USA.
DETAILS:
* 1950′s-60’s type silhouette and fit.
* Sleeveless.
* 90% down and 10% feathers filling, horizontal quilting.
* Longer rear panel tail.
* OD painted metal snap front closure.
* Storm collar with signal orange accent.
* Hand-warmer pockets.
* Two inside pockets.
* Genuine paracord hanger loop.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/WASHING:
The “OG-107 Vest, Man’s, Down” are sold RAW (unwashed) and should stay that way.
They are true-to-size. I am usually a Medium/38 in mfsc garments and wear a Medium in the vest, with not much extra room for a couscous royal when snapped closed.
Light superficial stains can be spot-cleaned and sponged off with a damp cloth and mild soap.
However, when needed, we recommend professional dry cleaning by an eco-friendly facility familiar with down-filled garments.
Do NOT boil. Do NOT throw in the washer on ‘heavy-duty’.
Refer to charts below for measurements:
Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
RETAIL $349.95
Available on www.misterfreedom.com
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any areas not covered above, such as the couscous royal recipe.
As always, thank you truly for your support.
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