Mister Freedom® “Utes”, ‘Boonies’ edition, Saigon Cowboy SS2015 flashback.

Some vintage inspiration out of the Mister Freedom® archives.

Mister Freedom® “Utes” boonies edition, Experimental Camouflage.
“Saigon Cowboy” Spring 2015 flashback!
Made in japan, chopped in USA.

The current sizzling temperatures in Los Angeles are slowly getting to us, and we’re having some “Saigon Cowboy” flashbacks…
Beaucoup dinky dau, eh?
So we figured we’d give a few pairs of our camo Utility Trousers the boonies treatment, i.e. we chopped-up the legs for a local-made flair. We added a side pocket, made from the extra fabric, to store your wad of piastres or bottle of Bamiba.

Those not allergic to historical tidbits can refer to our original post, for Counter Insurgency Support Office (CISO) and other CIDG-related stories behind the design of these trousers. For more general background on why we chose controversial times such as the Vietnam War era to draw inspiration for our 2015 collection, see here.
There it is.

The “Utes” are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co, part of our SS2015 “Saigon Cowboy” mfsc collection.

FABRIC OPTIONS:
An initially white-based 100% cotton HBT fabric, printed on both sides using a double-side rotary screen technique. Milled and printed in Japan.
Face printed with an original Mister Freedom® “Experimental” camo pattern (inspired by the P1942 frogskin pattern).
Reverse printed with a solid cachou color (a reference to the caramel-like color typical of 1930’s French military canvas gear).
a) HiLand camouflage out (arid terrain, lighter)/cachou in.
b) LoLand camouflage out (jungle, darker)/cachou in.
c) Cachou out (solid)/HiLand camouflage in.

DETAILS:
* Special “Boonie” edition, hemmed bermuda length, with extra single side pocket added.
* Inspired by vintage military utility trousers.
* Slimmer ‘ARVN’-type silhouette.
* Mid-high waisted.
* Front patch pockets locked in side seam, rear patch pockets, horizontal HBT.
* Side cinch tabs, mil-spec slide buckle.
* Flat black-painted Metal “13 Stars” tack waist button.
* Oxidized black donut-type fly buttons.
* Flat felled seams, chainstitch.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Made in Japan, customized in USA.

SIZING:
All three fabric options will measure the same after an initial cold soak/line dry process. The Boonies edition are cut to fall a bit above the knee, but silhouette will differ according to ones waist/height ratio.
Refer to sizing charts for approximate measurements.
 

Available Rinsed.
Limited sizes.
RETAIL $229.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles HQ.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

Utility Trousers, Denim. “Saigon Cowboy” mfsc spring 2015

Utes-Denim-Promo

 

 

Mister Freedom Utility Trousers Saigon Cowboy Spring 2015

Redneck hat optional

 

Utes-Denim-(6)

Utility Trousers, Denim
“Saigon Cowboy” mfsc spring 2015

utility
u·til·i·ty
yo͞oˈtilədē/

adjective

* functional rather than attractive.
Example: “utility clothing”

There is it.
We previously introduced the featured trousers of our Saigon Cowboy spring collection with their recent experimental camo release. The same pattern was used for this denim issue.  The  Utility Trousers, Denim borrow details from US Navy dungarees (CONTRACT DA-30-352TAP-2031 to be precise), Army chino trousers, M-51 field trousers, Marine Corps M1941 trousers… all blended in the MF® shaker.

The fabric is that of the Utility Jacket, Denim, inspired by the lightweight 2×1 denim of original 40’s-50’s US Army barrack bags.
Expertly milled in Japan based on a vintage US Army un-issued barrack bag from 1951, our new 10 Oz. indigo-dyed selvedge denim features a slight nep (woven ‘imperfections’ in the form of tiny whitish cotton balls), with the stiff-dry-crispy feel of NOS denim.

Blue-inspiration

Blue inspiration

As a work-type garment not having to rank high in attractiveness, our Utility Trousers are quite inconspicuous, in and out. And, do mark your calendars, we went as far as not show the selvedge anywhere. Refreshing, isn’t it. For the selvedge galore, and a tantalizing  KP duty tuxedo, check out the trousers’ matching top.
To complete the unassuming appearance, our utes feature black-painted ‘burst of Glory’ type metal buttons, black oxidized donut fly buttons, and black color cotton thread tonal stitching.

The specific sizing S,M,L,XL applied to trousers could sound odd, but is a nod to old military field pants featuring cinch tabs. Those are often tagged with a ‘size range’ as opposed to a precise measurement, reflecting the waist-adjusting pull tabs.
The “US” stamp stands for sizing following American standards, as opposed to the “A” stamp differentiating  Asian standards garments with CISO-issued gear.

Along with our Evac Jak and Utility Jacket, Denim these Utility Trousers, Denim are extrapolations of historical events we are briefly evoking as we unfold this Saigon Cowboy collection. Some will be familiar with these pages of History, some will wonder why on Earth we’re turning them, some will enjoy learning tidbits, some will want to burn the book, some will zip to the washing instructions…
I personally consider the Past to be valuable forewarning material, rather than mere dust for under the rug. You don’t agree or not with factual History, you are either aware of it and learning a lesson, or ignoring it and perpetrating more of the same. Most readers of this blog are probably too young to have either fought or protested the Vietnam war. Still, mentioning it in 2015 seems important food for thought to me. I won’t be sharing macabre combat photography that no one wants to look at, nor glamorize events either. I won’t even tell it like it is, because I was 10 when it ended and have no idea how it was. But enticing one to look things up with these brief posts will hopefully prove more useful than sharing self-coaching quotes on cutesy sunset photo backgrounds, or other such inspirational platitudes social media grace us with. History comes in handy in the voting booth.

How are you tomorrow?
Michael Herr, Dispatches (1977)

The Utility Trousers, Denim are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
10 Oz. indigo-dyed 2×1 denim, solid white ID selvedge. Milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Inspired by vintage military utility trousers.
* Mid-high waisted.
* Front patch pockets locked in side seam, rear patch pockets, horizontal HBT.
* Side cinch tabs, mil-spec slide buckle.
* Flat black-painted Metal “13 Stars” tack waist button.
* Oxidized black donut-type fly buttons.
* Flat felled seams, chainstitch.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT
This garment comes raw/unwashed and will shrink to tagged size after an original cold soak/line dry. Further shrinkage to be expected with the use of hot water and heat dryer.
I decided to size down in those, as I had done with the Crew Pants of the Sea Hunt spring 2013 collection, and I am wearing a Small (30). When both fully cinched, the waist tabs can tighten the fit by about 2 inches, but a Medium looked too baggy on me. A tagged Small technically corresponds to a 30-32 inch waist.
Please refer to sizing chart for measurements reflecting a 30mn cold soak no agitation/line dry.

Utility Pants Denim

CARE:
Launder when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails.
Machine wash. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. We recommend turning indigo blue/denim garments inside out to avoid marbling when washing.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.

Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
X-Small (28)
Small (30)
Medium (32)
Large (34)
X-Large (36)
XX-Large (38)

RETAIL $329.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.comfine retailers around the World, and our dusty Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for reading and for your support

The CREW PANTS, mfsc “Sea Hunt”, Spring 2014

Mister Freedom Crew Pants 20 Monoi Tiki 14

Right there.

 

Yes! Right there…
Shooting the ‘Crew Pants’ in the back of the store for this next “Sea Hunt” post the other day, I looked closer at one of the props. Namely a Feb. 1942 issued map of the Pacific Ocean, found inside a 40’s white USN ditty bag, along with the sailor’s stencils/cover/letters…

USN Ditty Bag

Daw, T.A.’s USN Ditty Bag

On the map, he had circled his way from Newark to Portland to… the Solomon Islands (Guadalcanal ’42, anyone?)
Not sure what happened to seaman “Daw, T.A.”, but what he did then gives me the liberty today to choose another destination.
I pick Bora Bora. So I’m adding my longtime favorite body oil as an extra prop to the photo. Made in Tahiti since 1942. Get sum’ here!
🙂
Sooo, dear Monsieur Monoi and Madame Tiki, kindly mail two complimentary airline tickets to:
Mister Freedom®, 7161 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90036,USA.
Māuruuru in advance 😉

Anyways…

Mister Freedom Crew Pants 2014

Mister Freedom Crew Pants 2014

Mister Freedom Crew Pants 2014

Mister Freedom® “Crew Pants”
‘Sea Hunt’ mfsc Spring 2014

Commonly referred to as ‘fatigues’, the US Army “Utility, Trousers, OG-107, TYPE 1 Class 1” became associated with the early years of the Vietnam conflict. The original 8.5 Oz fabric they were made of was a type of carded cotton sateen vat-dyed Olive Green, shade number 107. This sturdy fabric was well adapted for Korea, but was later found unsuitable for a tropical jungle theater and replaced by popeline and ripstop for the utility sets.
Some call these trousers ‘Baker Pants’. According to Artist and collector Patrick ‘Riveted’ Segui, this might refer to the fame of US Army MSgt. John Franklin Baker, Jr., Medal of Honor decorated ‘tunnel rat’ hero of the Vietnam war. Anyone with an alternate explanations for the term is welcome to pitch in. Anyone wanting to correct me on other historical inaccuracies I might have committed is truly welcome too.

Fort Ord 1971

Business in the front…

Korea 1950s

… party in the back.

NOTE: Both above images from our archives are NOT related, were taken some twenty years apart and are NOT intended to be disrespectful in any way.

The Mister Freedom® ‘CREW PANTS’ share the general pattern of these P57 (pattern dated 11 March 1957) ‘fatigues’, including the waist adjuster tabs and large rear pocket flaps of type 1 trousers.
Where we decided to intervene and wake up from lethargy however is with the choice of fabrics. The idea was to mix things up, continents, eras, fabrics and styles, as the members of our Team did when giving instructions to have their custom functional gear designed. These trousers soon became everyone’s favorite, on and off board.

Here are the two options for our version of these classic utility trousers:

a) “MN” Linen-cotton:
Referring (again) to the French Navy, this 6.75 Oz blend of 55% cotton and 45% linen was developed from several 1950’s vintage samples of French Marine Nationale utility uniforms. The fabric is similar to a thick type of slubby chambray, rendered ‘crispy’ by the linen content. Our version features actual indigo dyed yarn, as was used in very early models. I have always loved this fabric, the color, the feel and the way it fades overtime.
For decades, a French seaman’s ‘tenue de travail’ partly consisted of buttoned flap-front deck pants, pleated summer shorts, pull-over tops (vareuse) and a (rare) shawl collar jacket made out of this fabric. It was replaced by a purple-ish color denim-like cotton twill in the 1970’s, subsequently evolving into a poly-cotton version.
We sent several vintage samples and instructions to the fabric experts at Toyo Enterprises, and we were honestly thrilled with how nice the resulting Japan milled textile came out.
I have always longed to find a pair of ‘simple’ trousers in that cotton-linen fabric that would be easier to wear than the typical crackerjack style pants. There is it 😉

'Marine Nationale' vintage inspiration

Vintage 1950’s French Navy inspiration

b) Brown Twill:
This 9 Oz 100% cotton fabric was developed from a WW1 US Army officer pair of jodhpurs from our archives. I really loved the feel of the twill and the way it had evolved though the years. That vintage fabric was totally different from the more common army chino twill we are used to.
Again, the textile experts at Toyo Enterprises were put to the challenge with that mystery, studied yarn per yarn, and milled the fabric according to a tiny swatch hidden in a seam, tightly protected from wear and sun exposure. These guys use microscopes and crazy technical fabric content tests. They’re good.
Interestingly, the resulting original pre-fade color is very similar to that of our Britches Chaparral and Americano Trousers. The common thread…

WW1 US Army jodhpurs inspiration.

Vintage WW1 US Army jodhpurs inspiration.

For both options, we are using an Olive Drab USMC HBT fabric (courtesy of Buzz Rickson’s) for the waist band lining and fly facing, a WW2 OD shade #7. Please note that production does not come with someone’s name stenciled on the inside waistband. I have a tendency to mark most of my clothes, for no other reason than an old tenacious habit from bygone boarding school days.

The “CREW PANTS” of our Sea Hunt Spring 2014 Collection are made in Japan as a collaboration between Mister Freedom® and Sugarcane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC: Two fabric options
a) “MN” Linen-cotton: 6.75 Oz blend of 55% cotton and 45% linen, plain weave. Milled in Japan exclusively for mfsc.
b) Brown Twill: 9 Oz 100% cotton twill fabric (approx. color Pantone Reference: 732 U)

DETAILS:
* Pattern adapted from an original pair of US Army P57 utility trousers.
* High-waist, straight leg, generous fit.
* Two ply waistband with Olive Drab USMC HBT fabric lining (OD shade #7)
* Button fly, corozo (vegetable ivory nut) top and fly buttons.
* Side waist adjuster.
* Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* mfsc white woven label, ready for perso markings.

SIZING/WASHING:
Both fabric options come un-washed, as always with MF® gear.
Although different in measurements when raw, both will shrink to a very similar fit. Due to the different drape of the two very different fabrics, the same size might however feel and appear different when worn.
The Brown Twill are cut longer than their MN linen counterpart, for no other reason than to make us all wonder why…
Please note that due to the ‘crispiness’ and wrinkling properties of linen, leg creases will ‘lift’ the fabric and will have to be put into consideration for those hemming their pair.
I had to size down to a Waist 30 on both of these CREW PANTS, which I right away attributed to my daily 3mn planking routine I started last week. Nice try. They ARE cut quite generously.

We recommend the usual original cold soak/spin dry/line dry routine.
Please note that our rinse tests were done following this method, and that using hot water and powered dryer (both not recommended) will result in more shrinkage.
Further washing, when needed, should be done on ‘delicate’, with mild detergent, and trousers turned inside out to avoid ‘marbling’ of the fabric.
After a few cycle of normal wash/wear, the CREW PANTS will reach their low-maintenance status and age gracefully.

 

MN Crew Pants

MN Crew Pants

Brown Twill Crew Pants

Brown Twill Crew Pants


Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Tagged Sizes

W28
W30
W32
W34
W36
W38
Retail $439.95

Available from our brick & mortar and our webstore.
Please call the store at 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com with questions not addressed above.
Thank you sincerely for your support 🙂

MFSC 645n & 645w: Look out ye ol’ chambray’s back!

MFSC 645n/MFSC 645w Shirt, Chambray, Shore

MFSC 645n/MFSC 645w Shirt, Chambray, Shore

Another slice of the MFSC Spring09 Collection…Our Sailor had these two shirts custom made for his time off duty. As his usual blue utility chambray was asigned to hard work aboard the ship, he combined his favorite pattern (MFSC 645) with more ‘civilian’ fabrics picked up at the “MFSC Naval Supply Research” to wear on shore. These shirts were custom made for him, as “Experimental Garments”.

FABRIC:

  • MFSC original end-on-end 100% cotton selvedge “chambray”.
  • 645n: Indigo blue and black woven yarns.
  • 645w: Ivory and white woven yarns.
  • 100% Cotton indigo dyed facing.

Non-Sanforized fabric will approximately shrink a whole size down when washed/dryed.

PATTERN/SPECS:

  • Original MFSC 645 pattern.
  • Original “slant” selvedge left chest pocket..
  • Concealed right chest passport pocket .
  • Chin strap.
  • Navy blue metal painted buttons.
  • Side gussets.
  • “Uniform shirt” type slim fit.
  • Reinforced elbow construction.
  • 100% cotton navy blue hi-count stitching.
  • “MFSC Naval Supply Research” Experimental Garment cotton cloth label.

(Unissued. Size Xs, S, M, L, XL. Retail $ 239.95)

Calling all Deckhands…

The docks have been busy…We just got in the production batch of the MFSC 7161md, Fall 08 Utility Trousers!

Raw and stiff, dripping indigo, ready for hard labour.

(Sizes are 28, 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38, all with 34 inseam. Retail $429.95)