Mister Freedom® MATTOCK Jacket, Camel Brown 14 Oz. Corduroy, FW2019 mfsc Surplus Catalog. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® “MATTOCK” Jacket, 14 Oz. corduroy.
FW2019 mfsc Surplus catalog.

Made in Japan.

The MF® MATTOCK jacket got its moniker from the classic vintage mackinaw coat that inspired our original design. The inspirational piece, an old 1940’s wool plaid jacket, bore two labels. One barely-readable, featuring what looks like the familiar white sheep trademark of its maker, WOOLRICH®, and one sewn-on by the original owner, a certain Ray Mattock.

Our ‘interpretation’ ended-up having very little in common with the vintage red/black buffalo plaid garment, so we just kept half the name.

For those inclined, what follows are the usual ramblings about the design process, and how we turned a classic piece of Americana into a jambalaya of Old and New World à la MF®.

The Mattock features details inspired by early American and French workwear/outdoor jackets, blended into a classic mfsc vintage “might have been.” On that note, should our Mattock pop-up in the collection of an inspired contemporary fashion label next season, as “designers” sometimes assume we simply lift patterns verbatim from vintage garment, we would of feel nothing short of tremendously flattered.

The shell fabric we opted for is reminiscent of vintage “Velour d’Amiens”, a type of heavy wide-wale cotton corduroy that the connoisseur of old 1930’s~40’s French outdoor/work/hunting garments will be familiar with.
Sadly, the grade of high-quality sturdy corduroy that originated in Amiens, France, sometime in the 18th Century, is no longer being manufactured. Cosserat, a textile mill founded around 1793 and one of the last
velour côtelé manufacturer from Amiens, permanently closed its doors in 2012. After several restructuring attempts, and with low-cost corduroy manufacturing coming out of China flooding the market, management of the long-standing Coserrat mill eventually gave up. Another collateral damage of the average consumers’ addiction to a plethora of cheap disposable garments rather than a curated and durable wardrobe.

For this project, our friends at Toyo Enterprise sourced a cord fabric that is somewhat reminiscent in texture of traditional Amiens workwear corduroy. We opted for a rich camel brown color, expertly matched by a Japanese dyehouse to the specific shade of brown of a 1930’s vintage French hunting coat from our archives.

The French vibe was then “americanized” by lining our jacket with a striped “Troy” blanket, sometimes referred to as “Alaska” blanket.

The choice of removable “shank” (or “ring”) buttons, is a nod to the original mfsc front closure of our McKarsten jacket. Instead of stitched eyelets, we went for metal grommets, a feature that I have personally never seen on vintage jackets but probably already exists.

We worked out a chin strap in the top closure, played with facing and lining on the collar, threw in some attractive patina-prone leather trim accents, and spiced-up the jambalaya with mismatched pocket lining. We used Sugar Cane Co vintage replica woven plaids, left-over yardage from recent heavy cotton flannel Toyo production. This concealed feature is sometimes seen on vintage pieces, when linings and pocketing could be cut from whatever surplus fabric was on hand, to save on production costs and delays.

Time to end this novel by mentioning that the upside-down neck labeling featured on above product photos was the funny blooper of an early prototype. Production differs, unless you get lucky and score a rare and collectible UFO that eluded QC.

The MF® Mattock Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by 1930’s~1940’s mackinaw jackets and vintage outdoor coats, blending New World and Old World flavors.

FABRIC
Shell: 14 Oz. Heavy wide-wale corduroy, 100% cotton, milled in Japan.
Lining: Soft-hand “Troy Blanket” wool blend fabric, 60% re-used wool, 28% cotton, 12% rayon). Woven in Japan.

DETAILS:

  • All original mfsc pattern.
  • Full “Troy” recycled wool blend blanket lining.
  • Leather trim accents on pockets and cuffs.
  • Four pocket front, hand warmer and flap slash pockets combo.
  • Pocket linings cut from mismatched vintage-style cotton woven plaid heavy flannel.
  • Original mfsc removable painted brass “shank” buttons.
  • Rear cinch tabs.
  • Chin strap.
  • Original mfsc “Surplus” rayon woven label.
  • Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® MATTOCK Jacket comes raw/un-rinsed, and can be worn as-is as it is true-to-size and does not need to shrink to fit.
For a subtle puckering of the stitching and fabric torque, with minor to unnoticeable shrinkage, the jacket can be cold soaked for 30mn, spun dry and line dried.

Do not use a full washing cycle or heat dryer.

I wear size 38 in most mfsc jackets and opted for a size 38 in the Mattock, for a trim yet comfortable fit. Refer to sizing chart for raw measurements, with our measuring method explained here.
To figure out which size will best work for you, a good system is to compare our measurements with those of a similar, lined, ¾ length jacket you own and that fits you well.

CHART

CARE:
Professional dry cleaning recommended, at an eco-friendly facility familiar with leather-trimmed garments.
This is quite a heavy jacket that might get damaged if laundered in a home washing machine.
Remove all shank buttons before cleaning.

Available Sizes:
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (XLarge)
44 (XXLarge)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2019

 

Mister Freedom Waterfront Coat, Linen Cotton HBT, Troy Blanket lining, Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection

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It was about 95°F in San Pedro that day…

The Waterfront Coat, HBT cotton Linen, Troy Blanket lining.
Fall 2016 mfsc Anniversary Collection
Made in Japan

The final drop in the ocean of goodies issued for Fall 2016 will be the Waterfront Coat.
Not yet a wrap for our mfsc Ten Year Anniversary adventures, merely the last page of its nautical chapter. After two deck jackets, a couple of naval chinos, a blue shirt, and a souvenir jacket, all we needed was …one peacoat!
Anchors aweigh!

The familiar silhouette of the Waterfront Coat is another homage to the early pattern of the classic USN P-Jacket, a.k.a. peacoat.

Sometime in Spring 2008, we released a denim version of that iconic manly garment, part of  the “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor” concept, our first full-fledge collection in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. If a 10-button peacoat made from selvedge denim didn’t necessarily sound like a good idea back then either, it kinda caught on. Some of our jackets even made it to unlikely retail doors, finding their way to Sir Paul Smith’s store shelves in swinging London, or on J.Crew’s catalog, eventually ending-up on sale partly because, you know, raw denim in 2008 was not exactly the most convincing selling point in menswear…

In case you missed it and enjoy a bit of Costume History at times, a previous blog post, concocted while introducing the MF® indigo twill Caban Peacoat, quickly taps into the history of peacoats, a garment adopted by Navies around the World for over a Century.

For Fall 2016, our design approach was to ‘demilitarize’ the famed War Department-issued blue jacket, twisting a USN regulation uniform into a civvy garment, morphing the peacoat into a mackinaw coat. 

The shell fabric we chose is an old mfsc favorite, a blend of linen and cotton woven in a heavily-textured herringbone twill pattern, milled for us in Japan. Inspired by the fabric of late 1800’s/early 1900’s Sapeurs Pompiers (french firemen) work uniforms (bourgerons), we originally issued a handsome ‘gunpowder black’ version of it, as featured on the Faro sack coat, waistcoat, and britches of our 2012 Men of the Frontier Collection.

Recognizing at the time how attractive this HBT fabric looked in its un-dyed, un-bleached state, our design department kept it on the back burner, as a contender for a future project. So here it is, at last, in all its natural beauty!
For the lining, we went with an American vintage classic. Canteen blankets have been a bit overplayed in ‘Heritage Fashion’ in recent years, cut and sewn into all kinds of improbable garments and accessories, so we opted to keep it fully concealed on the inside.
Troy Blankets come in several colorways, our 2010 “N-1H Tr0y” featured one of them, and we chose a stripe pattern of warm tones that was new to us this time, the flecked brown-dominant version.
Replacing the classic foul anchor black buttons with natural brown corrozo wood buttons contributed to the ‘maritime to workwear’ make-over.

If the resulting jacket looks quite different from previous MF® iterations of the classic USN peacoat, it still fits our eclectic vintage aesthetics, this time Corto Maltese meets Terry Malloy and his docker comrades.

Photo credits:
* Corto Maltese watercolor courtesy of Cong SA. Official website here.
* On set of “On The Waterfront” (1954), courtesy of Getty Images.

The “Waterfront Coat” is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

 SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, freely inspired by early 1910’s -1930’s USN and US Coast Guard sailor wool peacoats, and 1930’s-40’s vintage mackinaw-type outdoor coats.
FABRIC:
Shell: A fancy 80% linen and 20% cotton blend fabric, HBT pattern, selvedge, milled in Japan.
Lining: Soft-hand “Troy Blanket” wool blend fabric, 60% re-used wool, 28% cotton, 12% rayon). Brown dominant stripe. Woven in Japan.

NOTE: The combination and specifics of these two fabrics make the Waterfront Coat quite unfit for foul weather and extreme cold temperatures, but quite appropriate for moderately chilly days, and in-between seasons under temperate climates.

DETAILS:
*
 Early USN peacoat pattern.
* Canteen-type “Troy Blanket” wool blend stripe lining, brown dominant.
* 10-button front closure.
* Brown corrozo wood buttons.
* Four outside pockets, two ‘hand warmer’ slash pockets and two flap closure pockets. All lined with golden brown cotton-wool blend corduroy.
* Inside chest pocket and traditional ‘cigarette’ pocket.
* Leather arrowhead reinforcement on pocket edges.
* Fabric selvedge conspicuously displayed inside pockets and on back vent.
* Removable chin strap (displaying either fabric if left dangling, or concealed if buttoned under the collar.)
* Traditional Zig-Zag pattern under-collar reinforcement stitching.
* Double labeling, original MF® and mfsc woven labels.
* 100% cotton stitching, tonal.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The Waterfront Coat comes raw/unwashed/loomstate.

Although this garment can be worn as-is (raw), for a clean, pressed look, the pattern was adjusted to match a specific silhouette after an initial cold soak/hang dry process. Aside from fabric shrinkage, the HBT linen-cotton material takes on a ‘new life’ after this process. Linen fibers expand, the high-count stitching causes ‘roping’ and subtle twisting, the lining pulls the seams up a bit… and the garment looks about 50 years older, without the use of obnoxious chemical ‘vintage washes’ dear to our industry.

We suggest soaking the garment in cold water for about 3omn, occasional hand agitation, spin dry and hang dry. Please note that unless you live in the Atacama Desert, the Waterfront Coat might take about three days to fully dry. We do not recommend using a heat dryer. We do not recommend boiling this garment either, as the leather trims and lining will probably get ruined.

Please refer to the sizing chart to see if this garment’s proportions work for you. We suggest sizing down on the Waterfront Coat. I usually wear a Medium (38) in mfsc jackets, but opted for a Small (36). After the initial soak/hang dry procedure, I still had enough room to layer a mid-weight shirt and a close-fitting Cowboy denim jacket
Do take in consideration that the Troy Blanket lining adds a bit of ‘puffiness’ compared to a thin cotton twill lining.

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CARE:
After the initial cold soak, we recommend taking the Waterfront Coat to your local eco-friendly dry cleaner for cleaning. Do not use a home washing machine to launder, as the coat is quite heavy and stiff when wet. Spot cleaning can be performed by using a damp cloth and common sense.

Available raw/unwashed.
Sizes
36
Small
38
Medium
40
Large
42
X-Large
44
XX-Large
Retail $799.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2016