Redneck hat optional
Utility Trousers, Denim
“Saigon Cowboy” mfsc spring 2015
* functional rather than attractive.
Example: “utility clothing”
There is it.
We previously introduced the featured trousers of our Saigon Cowboy spring collection with their recent experimental camo release. The same pattern was used for this denim issue. The Utility Trousers, Denim borrow details from US Navy dungarees (CONTRACT DA-30-352TAP-2031 to be precise), Army chino trousers, M-51 field trousers, Marine Corps M1941 trousers… all blended in the MF® shaker.
The fabric is that of the Utility Jacket, Denim, inspired by the lightweight 2×1 denim of original 40’s-50’s US Army barrack bags.
Expertly milled in Japan based on a vintage US Army un-issued barrack bag from 1951, our new 10 Oz. indigo-dyed selvedge denim features a slight nep (woven ‘imperfections’ in the form of tiny whitish cotton balls), with the stiff-dry-crispy feel of NOS denim.
As a work-type garment not having to rank high in attractiveness, our Utility Trousers are quite inconspicuous, in and out. And, do mark your calendars, we went as far as not show the selvedge anywhere. Refreshing, isn’t it. For the selvedge galore, and a tantalizing KP duty tuxedo, check out the trousers’ matching top.
To complete the unassuming appearance, our utes feature black-painted ‘burst of Glory’ type metal buttons, black oxidized donut fly buttons, and black color cotton thread tonal stitching.
The specific sizing S,M,L,XL applied to trousers could sound odd, but is a nod to old military field pants featuring cinch tabs. Those are often tagged with a ‘size range’ as opposed to a precise measurement, reflecting the waist-adjusting pull tabs.
The “US” stamp stands for sizing following American standards, as opposed to the “A” stamp differentiating Asian standards garments with CISO-issued gear.
Along with our Evac Jak and Utility Jacket, Denim these Utility Trousers, Denim are extrapolations of historical events we are briefly evoking as we unfold this Saigon Cowboy collection. Some will be familiar with these pages of History, some will wonder why on Earth we’re turning them, some will enjoy learning tidbits, some will want to burn the book, some will zip to the washing instructions…
I personally consider the Past to be valuable forewarning material, rather than mere dust for under the rug. You don’t agree or not with factual History, you are either aware of it and learning a lesson, or ignoring it and perpetrating more of the same. Most readers of this blog are probably too young to have either fought or protested the Vietnam war. Still, mentioning it in 2015 seems important food for thought to me. I won’t be sharing macabre combat photography that no one wants to look at, nor glamorize events either. I won’t even tell it like it is, because I was 10 when it ended and have no idea how it was. But enticing one to look things up with these brief posts will hopefully prove more useful than sharing self-coaching quotes on cutesy sunset photo backgrounds, or other such inspirational platitudes social media grace us with. History comes in handy in the voting booth.
“How are you tomorrow?“
Michael Herr, Dispatches (1977)
The Utility Trousers, Denim are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
10 Oz. indigo-dyed 2×1 denim, solid white ID selvedge. Milled in Japan.
* Inspired by vintage military utility trousers.
* Mid-high waisted.
* Front patch pockets locked in side seam, rear patch pockets, horizontal HBT.
* Side cinch tabs, mil-spec slide buckle.
* Flat black-painted Metal “13 Stars” tack waist button.
* Oxidized black donut-type fly buttons.
* Flat felled seams, chainstitch.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Made in Japan.
This garment comes raw/unwashed and will shrink to tagged size after an original cold soak/line dry. Further shrinkage to be expected with the use of hot water and heat dryer.
I decided to size down in those, as I had done with the Crew Pants of the Sea Hunt spring 2013 collection, and I am wearing a Small (30). When both fully cinched, the waist tabs can tighten the fit by about 2 inches, but a Medium looked too baggy on me. A tagged Small technically corresponds to a 30-32 inch waist.
Please refer to sizing chart for measurements reflecting a 30mn cold soak no agitation/line dry.
Launder when hygiene dictates and common sense prevails.
Machine wash. Cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. We recommend turning indigo blue/denim garments inside out to avoid marbling when washing.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, fine retailers around the World, and our dusty Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email email@example.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for reading and for your support
Mister Freedom® MFSC “HACENDADO Trousers”
‘Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Spring 2012
To complement our hacendado sack coat, here is the second part of the three piece suiting series for Spring 2013.
Inspired by several pattern of 1900’s to 1930’s slacks, the hacendado flat front trousers’ silhouette is reminiscent of classic 1920’s slacks, such as the tropical garb made by “Palm Beach Mills” (Goodall Company, Cincinnati, Ohio.) Vintage clothing aficionados might be familiar with that awesome label (see 1920 Ad below).
Our hacendado trousers come in three fabric options:
* Stripe: Tan and indigo dyed yarns plain weave pinstripe pattern, a crispy blend of 55% hemp and 45% cotton, 6.8 oz., solid tan selvedge, inspired by a textile swatch from a 1930′s vintage waistcoat.
* Homespun: Natural/earth tones dyed yarns plain weave textile, a heavier blend of 68% hemp and 32% cotton, 11 oz., solid white selvedge, inspired by a turn of the century homespun French textile from a vintage South-West of France farmer blouse.
* Baja Denim: Lighter shade indigo dyed denim, 2×1 twill, 100% cotton, 6.5 oz., inspired by a specific indigo shade typical of Mexican artisan dyers of the time, selected from several vintage textiles of the area.
Again, wearing a matching set is definitely a statement, and mismatching the fabrics a good alternative. These trousers can also be paired with less ‘dressy’ clothes and footwear to tone them down, as often seen of period photography (out of necessity more than as a fashion statement.)
Cuffing options are up to you as well, I personally opted for a standard 1¼ fold with my own pairs.
All designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co. Limited edition.
* PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by several vintage trousers from the 1900’s to the 1930’s. Elegant silhouette, for Gents not into skinny bottoms, or tights.
a) ‘Stripe’ option: 6.8 oz selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ (as opposed to a ‘floating’ lining) 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
b) ‘Homespun’ option: 11 oz. selvedge hemp/cotton woven textile. Front panels lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline (unlined rear panels for this option). Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
c) ‘Baja Denim’ option: 6.5 oz. indigo dyed denim 2×1 twill, solid white selvedge, 100% cotton. Body lined with inner ‘sandwiched’ 100% cotton indigo dyed popeline. Arms lined with vintage 100% cotton NOS stripe plain weave fabric.
* Higher rise, fit seat and fuller legs.
* Wide waistband with double button closure.
* Selvedge leg side seams.
* Thin belt loops, trousers style.
* “Italian” type front pockets, with fabric selvedge fold and early European arcuate decorative stitch.
* “Smiley” type rear welt pockets, with arcuate stitch. MF®, again putting a smile on your buns.
* Four button fly.
* Corozo wood buttons, aka ‘coconut wood’.
* Adjustable side cinch straps with French NOS metal slider buckles.
* MFSC stripe ticking 100% cotton waist lining and pocket bags. Fly facing with all cotton unbleached popeline.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
PACKAGING: An original MF® printed denim draw string bag, reusable as a grocery bag, hand-made in our Los Angeles studio.
All three fabric options come RAW (unwashed). We recommend cold soak and line dry, which will result in minimal shrinkage and no color loss. All Hacendado trousers will ultimately shrink to tagged size. Fuller shrinkage will be obtained with gentle machine cycle and low heat dryer, at your own risks.
The hemp/cotton blends will retain the desirable wrinkle effect typical of linen type textiles and ‘tropical’ look.
The waist fit is ‘generous’, so if you are an actual 32” waist, get a marked 32 (see below fit pix of stripe hacendado trousers, waist 32, rinsed and hung dry, with extra Pelvis shot 😉
Refer to sizing charts below for approximate measurements:
Waist SIZE 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
(Length after rinsing 34”)
Call 323-653-2014 or email firstname.lastname@example.org to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.
Mister Freedom® MFSC “FARO BRITCHES”
Men of the Frontier Fall 2012
Wrapping up a busy year and, along with it, our Men of the Frontier collection, here is the final Fall chapter: The FARO BRITCHES.
For these trousers, we have combined our original ‘Britches Chaparral‘ pattern with the linen/cotton HBT selvedge fabric from our ‘Faro Sack Coat” and ‘Faro Waistcoat‘.
I have yet to wear the Faro ‘three piece suit’, ‘Ditto Suit’ style, but I often mix two matching pieces with a contrasting third. For instance Faro sack coat and waistcoat worn with stripe ‘gunslinger’ type trousers or just a good pair of jeans. Or HBT Faro Britches and Waistcoat with an old leather jacket or MF® cotton Sack Coat…
But enough shameless self promo, you know what works for you better than I do 😉
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted by Sugar Cane Co in Japan for MFSC. Limited edition.
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1930’s-1940’s work type trousers and cotton gentleman slacks, borrowing from both the American West and the Old World. Mid/high rise.
“Gun Powder” black (between field grey and dark laurel green), wide HBT (herringbone twill), selvedge, 20% Cotton/80% Linen blend, 15 Oz. Woven in Japan.
Pocketing and waist Lining: HBT cotton (ochre color), an original MFSC fabric, woven in Japan (same fabric we used for the lining of the Faro Waistcoat)
* Selvedge outer leg seam.
* Slash type front pockets, with inner selvedge angled stitched fold.
* Gun metal color donut button fly with double button waist.
* Two slash rear pockets, with arrowhead type button flaps.
* Watch pocket
* Trousers tailor-made type pocket bags construction and lining, with 100% cotton original HBT fabric. All biased taped edges.
* Black color 100% cotton thread high-count stitching
* Flat felled seam seat construction.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the Faro Britches comes in an old school cardboard box with original MF® artwork. This sturdy box is not the collapsible cheapo kind, and can be used for storage of small items. Please re-use.
About 2-5% shrinkage on this fabric. If you are usually a 32 waist, get a tagged 32.
We recommend an original cold soak and line dry. Subsequent cleaning should be done with the trousers flipped inside/out (to avoid marbling), gentle cycle, cold water, with minimal environmentally friendly detergent and line dry.
NOTE: Full washing cycle in warm water and machine dry WILL result in more shrinkage (around 5%) and color loss. NOT recommended.
See chart below for raw and post cold soak/line dry approx. measurements:
Tagged Sizes (= will shrink to sizes):
W28 × L33
W30 × L33
W32 × L33
W34 × L33
W36 × L34
W38 × L34
Call 323-653-2014 or mail email@example.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. Thank you for the support, friends.
MFSC “Les Apaches” Spring 2011 Collection: Introducing ‘ze’ Pantalon Apache!
I know. We’re late. But the deliveries from our Japanese partners have been quite delayed this season, for obvious reasons. We don’t really mind the delay, since our MFSC collections do not follow trends, seasons or reason.
So here they are, ’em anticipated stripey breeches!
Inspired by turn of the century to 1930′s French tailor-made gent garb, our Pantalon Apache come in three different fabric options. Woven in Japan exclusively for MFSC, the fabrics were developed from vintage swatches and samples of 100 year old textiles from our archives. They are not replicas, as we changed some yarn colour combinations, tones and texture, giving them our trademark twist. The fabrics are 100% cotton, making them drape and feel the way we wanted. They were a real endeavour to mill and had some people pulling their hair in the process…
The trousers can be matched with our Gilet de Ville, cut from the same cloth. Throw a Veste Ouvrier on top to dress them down, or a vintage leather coat or blazer… Also great with a simple white Marcel (French slang for tank-top undershirt, aka “wife-beater”, no offense Mesdemoiselles), for the BBQ months. Add your own vintage buttons to hook-up your suspenders. Dress shoes, motorcycle boots or clunky old work shoes… Work it out pally! Nice break from the daily denim accoutrement.
Check out our friend “Mr. French CanCan“, aka Vilbo Jr. from Toulouse, interresting 5 part retrospective on the Parisian Apache culture. Great read and photos for inspiration.
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by early French tailor-made suiting. 1930’s silhouette with higher-rise and fuller legs.
FABRIC: Milled in Japan, in small limited batches, exclusive to MFSC. The three options are NOT an alternate colour way of the same woven fabric, rather three totally differently woven fabrics as follow:
* GREY COVERT STRIPE: 10 Oz., all cotton, double cloth, 6 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
* INDIGO STRIPE BLUE: 8 Oz., all cotton, 7 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
* COVERT STRIPE BROWN: 8 Oz., all cotton, 5 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
WAIST & POCKET LINING: All cotton MFSC stripe ticking and original MFSC Métisse 50% cotton/50% Linen plain weave, indigo dyed and black pigment coated.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s).
*Side adjustement slide buckle straps, with original NOS French metal hardware.
* Two back pocket with button dart flaps.
* Concealed waist hook, original NOS French metal hardware.
* “V” belt loops.
* “American” cuffs.
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: All fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer, this gilet de ville, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops. Yo Captain, ain’t ya tired of ze plug???…it’s just that we REALLY love ’em boxes!
SHRINKAGE: All fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer (or shouldn’t, should one get the urge to do so), this pantalon Apache, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
All three fabric have different shrinkage specs, so RAW measurements of a same size will differ slightly from on cloth to another. After rinse and dry all three trousers options will fit the same.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized and labelled in french…
Click on chart below for Raw/Rinsed measurements (we do our best to measure accurately, but although sober, three different people measuring will come up with three different results… so the chart is APPROXIMATE):
Limited Edition, designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist US 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email firstname.lastname@example.org or email@example.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like, and not what others do.
All rite, before you start calling Five O, let’s just say that the boys and I decided to have fun yesterday and Ms. Jordan shot away…
Nothing to alert the medias about, but we decided to share our goofin’ around. Featured in the photos are pieces of our MFSC Les Apaches Spring 2011 collection:
* MFSC Gilet de Ville
* MFSC Chemise Calico
* MF® Bourgeron Biribi
* MFSC Pantalon Ouvrier
* MFSC Pantalon Apache
* MFSC Chemise Fantaisie
* MF® Casquette “Deffe”
We had more fun than what it looks like on those photos.
No humans were harmed in the shooting of this photo session. Maybe just my pride when i realized i have to lose a few pounds. Anyways…
(If anyone wonders, John, Nico and I do NOT take ourselves seriously.)
Email firstname.lastname@example.org or email@example.com, or call 323-653-2014 for infos. Sorry, Nico NOT available for bachelorette parties…