Mister Freedom® “HUDSON” Jacket, 36 Oz. midnight blue melton wool, mfsc Surplus Fall 2018, Made in Japan.

Photo courtesy Tadashi Tawarayama www.seven-bros.com for Clutch Magazine Japan ©2018

Mister Freedom® HUDSON Jacket, 36 Oz. midnight blue Melton wool.
FW2018 mfsc Surplus collection.
Made in Japan.

We are adding a new vintage classic to the “Surplus” mfsc catalog this season, the Mister Freedom® “HUDSON” jacket, a design inspired by an obscure 1930’s unlined wool coat made by the H.W. Carter & Sons label (Est. 1859, read the history and some legal tidbits here) and cut from a genuine Hudson’s Bay point blanket.

We’d saved this vintage outdoor garment in our archives for quite some time, waiting for the right twist to put on it. The spark came as we were working on releasing a type of US Naval Academy Midshipmen wool hooded jacket. We thought of combining both designs… and there it was, the MF® HUDSON!
Our jacket pattern has a modern, elaborate and elegant feel to it, but is a lift of what was essentially a well-thought and functioning outdoor garment. While working in the field, the double-breasted top-half of the jacket buttons-up to keep the chest and neck protected from wind and cold, while the bottom-half zips up and down to allow access to the pockets of an inner (denim or else) jacket. The split-pattern hood, when not worn to scare the neighbors, unzips to lay flat as an extra layer to protect the shoulders, but also folds in half and snaps-up to the shape of a somewhat regular open collar. You can style this thing in about as many fashions as you can tie the MF® skipper paréo.

We opted for a 36 Oz. midnight blue Melton wool fabric (the weight of a vintage USN Peacoat), secured from our friend Buzz Rickson’s own coveted stash of vintage mil-specs US Navy trims and textile replicas. Because of the unlined construction of our HUDSON jacket, we resorted to taped inside seams, a reference to 1930’s sportswear and outdoor jackets, and a nod to early manufacturing savoir-faire. Because we know your inner beauty matters, we graced the seams with indigo-dyed cotton tape of a desirable narrow width, as seen on 1930’s unlined specimen.
The detail-oriented will also notice that the adjustable wrist cinch tabs are backed with black cotton sateen fabric, a common feature of vintage CPO shirts and old wool garments. Concerned about your comfort, we also kindly lined part of the collar (the portion in contact with the neck) with a soft-hand NOS cotton sateen fabric. It’s tonal, so you can hardly see it, but those sensitive to wool will appreciate.

The MF® HUDSON jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co and the expert Toyo Enterprise team.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Soft-hand midnight blue 36 Oz. Melton wool, fabric-dyed, vintage mil-specs US Navy type cloth, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage 1930’s unlined outdoor sportcoats and 1960’s USNA Midshipmen jackets.
* Unlined body construction featuring attractive taped inside seams, with 1930’s-style narrow-width indigo-dyed cotton tape.
* Double-breasted button-up top block and zip-up lower half.
* Tonal corozo wood buttons.
* Versatile collar pattern design: lays flats on shoulders, zip-up as a hood, folds in half and snaps-up to the shape of a regular open collar.
* Vintage NOS cotton-tape “Talon” metal zipper, oxidized black.
* Neck collar area partly-lined with soft tonal NOS cotton sateen fabric.
* Adjustable cinch tabs on wrists, backed with black cotton sateen fabric.
* Woven mfsc Surplus label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® HUDSON jacket is ready-to-wear, and does not require any special process before use. It is true-to-size, and somewhat intended as a top layer. I opted for a size Medium, my usual size in mfsc jackets, for a comfortable fit that will allow wearing a denim (or the like) jacket underneath.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate measurements, to figure which size will work for you.

CARE:
Professional dry-clean only, from your local eco-friendly facility.
Do not wash.

Available un-issued.
Sizes
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our funky-fresh Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

Mister Freedom® Trade shirt & Nixon shirt, double calico twill, mfsc Surplus Fall 2018, Made in Japan.

 

 

Mister Freedom® TRADE Shirt & NIXON Shirt, double calico twill.
mfsc Surplus Fall 2018.
Made in Japan.

We released our first double calico discharge print novelty fabric during the swinging days of our Gypsy Blues collection, in the form of a swanky shirt, the Fall 2017 Liquette Manouche.
The inspiration for that fabric came, as often with what we do, from old rags collected over the years. Here is how the concept of a double-sided fabric was introduced on the original post:

…we figured we’d chalenge our friends at Toyo Enterprises with a new puzzling favor: a double discharge-printed calico fabric! Inspired by a rare French 1930’s vintage garment, we had been contemplating the idea for some years, and thought it was time to mail an R&D package across the Pacific, attention Toyo’s Textile Lab…
We opted for a black, crisp cotton twill as the base fabric, and painstakingly selected two distinctive traditional calico patterns from antique textiles and swatches collected over the years. For production, the two subtlety-contrasting calico patterns are discharge-printed, on both the face and reverse of the fabric (i.e. “bleached-out” with low bleed-through.)…

The calico patterns we selected this Fall came from the archives of a Parisian industrial drawing study (see ink stamp that reads Dessins Industriels “A. MAUSES”, Paris, 13 Rue du Sentier in the back of the design cards), who apparently got contracted by a textile-printing mill for original fabric prints, sometimes in the 1930’s~50’s. We scored these hand-painted goodies in a Parisian flea market, years ago. One of the pattern is a fairly traditional stripe-effect repeat (fabric of the Nixon Shirt), contrasting with the more “Liberty Print” or polka-dot style of the other (Trade Shirt). And no, these are not UFO’s. It is unsure whether either graphic was ever selected and made it as a fabric print at the time.

From MF® design archives, antique French hand-painted graphic repeats used for fabric printing.

Both shirt patterns have been introduced previously in Mister Freedom® collections, and have since become wardrobe staples, from Los Angeles, CA., to remote parts of the Atacama Desert. The TRADE Shirt pattern is from our 2012 Men Of The Frontier yippee ki-yay days, and the Nixon Shirt made its first appearance in the Fall 2017 Surplus collection.

Both the Mister Freedom® mfsc TRADE Shirt and NIXON Shirt are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co and the expert Toyo Enterprise team.

Please note that, although cut from double-sided printed fabric, neither the NIXON or TRADE shirts are reversible.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
A crisp 5 Oz. black 100% cotton twill, double-printed with two specific antique calico patterns on face and reverse, using a discharge-print technique.
Milled and printed in Japan exclusively for mfsc.

1) MF® TRADE Shirt Double Calico:
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern, early American homesteader style, a silhouette reminiscent of old Frontier days and Native Americans adopting non-traditional western fashions, as seen on period field photography, such as Adam Clark Vroman or Edward S Curtis’ works. This is an updated version of the original 2012 Mister Freedom® TRADE Shirt.
* Pull-over tunic style.
* Double-side printed fabric (non-reversible garment).
* Stand collar with chin strap.
* Back panel and cuffs shearing.
* Tonal corozo wood buttons.
* Indigo popeline button placket facing, with period-style “Union” ticket.
* Early European-style side gussets, arrowhead patch pattern.
* Flat felled chain-stitch seams and single needle machine construction.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Original mfsc “SURPLUS” woven rayon patch.
* Made in Japan from fabric milled in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® TRADE Shirt in double calico comes raw/unwashed, and will all shrink to tagged size.
Follow the usual recommended initial method before wearing: cold soak for 30mn, spin dry and line dry.
The MF® TRADE Shirt is true-to-size and we recommend getting your normal mfsc size. I often wear a Medium in mfsc shirting and I opted for a comfortable Medium in the MF® TRADE Shirt.
Please refer to chart to determine which size works for you.

FW2018 Trade Shirt size chart

2) MF® NIXON Shirt Double Calico:
DETAILS:
* A garment pattern inspired by an original 1950’s “Roomy Richard” chambray shirt, and other vintage work shirts such as Big Mac®, Big Dick®, Big Yank®, etc…
* Trim silhouette with a 1940’s uniform vibe.
* Fancy double-layer left chest pocket with flap, known as “cigarette pocket”, in which you should put anything but cigarettes.
* Slanted opening right-side pocket with pen slot.
* Tonal corozo wood buttons.
* Chin strap collar, with vintage-style mfsc-embossed metal buttons on the collar band.
* Hi-count triple stitch construction.
* Green bar-tack accents on pockets.
* MF® Surplus green contrast chainstitch on the inside.
* Side gussets.
* Original Mister Freedom® mfsc “Surplus” woven label.
* Made in Japan from fabric milled in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® NIXON Shirt Chambray in double calico comes raw/unwashed and will all shrink to tagged size.
Follow the usual recommended initial method before wearing: cold soak for 30mn, spin dry and line dry.
The MF® NIXON Shirt is true-to-size and we recommend getting your normal mfsc size. I often wear a Medium in mfsc shirting and I opted for a slim-fitting Medium in the MF® NIXON Shirt.
Please refer to chart to determine which size works for you.

FW2018 Nixon Shirt size chart

CARE:
Wash your shirt when necessary.
We recommend turning the garment inside out to avoid potential marbling.
Machine wash inside out with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Available raw (un-washed)
Sizes
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018