Mister Freedom® Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit, NOS black-coated crosshatch denim, FW2018, made in USA.

Photo courtesy  Leigh Wiener ©1960

Mister Freedom® Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat & Trousers)
New Old Stock black-coated crosshatch denim (BCD)
mfsc Sportsman catalog, Fall 2018
Made in USA

Time to get rhythm ‘n get the blues, and kick off our Fall 2018 mfsc collection with this first installment, the dark and handsome “JC” two-piece suit!

All made-in-USA, this original trousers and sportcoat set, latest addition to the Mister Freedom® Continental family, is cut from an old MF® favorite, the final precious yardage of New Old Stock black-coated indigo denim (BCD) from our dusty vault.
Previously featured on the MF® Speedways and its Cowboy Jacket sidekick, this special NOS fabric is not the modern waxy black rubber type coating seen on novelty contemporary jeans, but rather an interesting indigo denim twill printed with a soft-hand opaque coat of matte black water-based ink. If the black ink completely covers the indigo blue warp of the denim, the traditional light-colored grayish weft (with somewhat of a greenish sheen here) shows on the reverse of the fabric. The slub of the yarns is visible on the weft threads, giving this specific denim its crosshatch quality.
If the BCD initially looks flat black due to the pigment coating, it will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo with black and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Undertones of indigo will rapidly appear with normal wear abrasion.

Below photos show a worn/washed pair of BCD Speedways next to the “JC” Continental Trousers in un-worn condition, both cut from the exact same fabric.

The “JC” Two-Piece Suit consists of two of our popular classic patterns, the MF® Continental Sportcoat and Continental Trousers.
The unstructured blazer pattern is already available in an array of fine NOS fabrics, an indigo crosshatch twill, two grey cotton-linen twills, a light indigo “Player” denim, and an elegant tropical “Congo Gabardine” cotton-linen twill.
The Trousers have previously been released in brown Cacao Chambray, indigo Crosshatch Denim Twill, and light indigo “Player” Denim.

Available as individual garments for a mix & match look, the black-coated denim “JC” is of course offered as a Sportcoat/Trousers set, for the Man-in-Black inclined.

The mfsc Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit in Black-Coated Denim (Continental Sportcoat & Trousers) is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock crosshatch pigment-coated denim, soft-hand matte black finish on indigo warp, 100% cotton, 12 Oz. Probable Kurabo (Japan) origin.
Pocketing & half lining/facing:  NOS fancy woven stripe 100% cotton plain weave (ivory white with blue & grey stripes), milled in Europe.

Continental “JC” SPORTCOAT:
* Unstructured silhouette.
* Lightweight and easily folded, perfect traveling companion.
* Sixties-vibe high button front.
* Black corozo wood butons.
* Half shoulder floating lining, 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill.
* Side hip pockets with flaps.
* Pocket openings reinforced on the inside with facing fabric.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching, all clean caballo (chainstitch) flat-felled seam construction, green color “Sportsman” signature chainstitch on the inside. No open edges or overlock.
* Made in USA.

Continental “JC” TROUSERS:
* Elegant late 1950′s early 1960’s type silhouette and fit, straight leg.
* Black corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Flat-felled side seam caballo all around construction.
* Rear welt pockets.
* Trousers-style belt loops.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill pocket bags, waist band .
* NOS indigo twill fly/cinch facing.
* Watch pocket.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstich MF® signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed when wearing a belt.
* Tailor shop-style unfinished overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT
This explains how we size our garments.
The Continental Sportcoat and trousers come raw/unwashed. We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. The tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. The subtle variation of shrinkage between body fabric/lining fabric/cotton thread will result in puckering and roping, slightly altering the fit and drape.
I personally opted for a Size 38 in the Continental sportcoat  and Waist 32 trousers. These are my usual sizes in the Continental series and most mfsc garments.

Trousers sizing: The Continental Trousers are true to size. If you are a measured waist 32 inches, you are most-likely a stamped W32 in the Continental Trouser. Do not size down on these. Please note that the Continental Trousers pattern might not be a good option for all body types. Proportion-wise, those with Ronaldo-style muscular legs will probably look better in our regular Sportsman Chino models.

Trousers hemming: After the initial soak/hang dry process, we recommend settling down on the final length of the bottom hem after gently wearing the trousers around the house a bit. The cotton fabric tends to naturally bunch/wrinkle and pull the leg up slightly. Letting this specific fabric react to your own body for an hour or so will allow you to decide on a proper classic leg break that works for you. I opted for a classic 1 1/4 fold, and subtle period flood.
Style-wise, we do not recommend bulky denim rolls and over-played BRMC cuffing with these classic slacks.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
(Fit pic: Haus is wearing a size 38 jacket and W32 trousers.)

CARE:
Treat your MF® Continental “JC” black-coated denim garments as you would fancy indigo denim wearables. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast colors fades, otherwise machine wash on DELICATE.
Wash separately to avoid color transfer. Turn garment inside-out to minimize unsightly marbling of the fabric. Cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Full wash cycle and heat dryer are not recommended.

Initially black, the MF® Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit will develop its own attractive patina with normal wear, blending shades of indigo, black, and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Be patient and just enjoy looking good during the process!

Sportcoat and trousers available separately or as a two-piece suit for substantial saving.

Continental “JC” SPORTCOAT:
Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Continental “JC” TROUSERS:
Sizes (Leg length about 36’’, left un-cuffed)
28
30
32
34
36
38

Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat + Trousers):
Any size combination available, rebate issued at PayPal check out.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

Mister Freedom® ‘Veste Ménilmontant’, indigo covert herringbone twill, “GYPSY BLUES” mfsc Fall 2017

 

Mister Freedom® Veste Ménilmontant , wool-cotton indigo covert herringbone.
GYPSY BLUES” mfsc FW2017
Made in Japan.

Ménilmontant… mais oui Monsieur!

We’re kick-off the Fall chapter of our “GYPSY BLUES” story to the beat of a 1938 Charles Trenet chanson, given a Jazz Hot treatment in 1949 by a quintet led by virtuoso guitarist Django Reinhardt and violinist Stephane Grappelli.
Dig it!

Our Veste Ménilmontant (veste is jacket in French, and Ménilmontant is a popular neighborhood of Paris) was inspired by a vintage suit jacket, an old beat-up 1920’s-30’s French coat. That original inspirational piece was absolutely striking, with amazing character, classy curves, elegant lines, and worn-out hobo style. Check it out if you visit the old pile o’ rags.
The fabric we chose for our interpretation is a fancy herringbone weave cotton/wool blend, a covert cloth mixing indigo blue, black and slate grey yarns.
Please note that this is quite a period-looking garment, as the Veste Ménilmontant screams Thirties! In part due to the curvy and wide peak lapels, the jazzy belted back accentuating the natural waist, and the overall silhouette. That elegant single-breasted style was typical of Gentlemen’s garb of the time. The four patch pockets with button flaps complete the vintage continental flair of the garment. We played a bit with the lining fabrics to give our coat an Old World meets New World tailor-made touch, mixing French workwear stripe ticking (body lining) with Wabash twill (arm lining).

Style-wise, if a bit concerned about looking like a 1930’s suave crooner, or an extra on Sous Les Toits de Paris, pairing the Veste Ménilmontant with familiar denim favorites should easily dismiss the Jean Sablon vibe. For Heritage Fashion and workwear aficionados, the jacket can also be toned down with a “Dirty Thirties”treatment, i.e. complimented with Great Depression era-inspired outfits.
For menswear and style inspiration, old photos abound. Check out the daily gems featured on Mr. Matt “Warpath” Strickland’s excellent Rivet-Head blog or rockin’ IG account.
For fancy Jazz Manouche-style guitar picks (those featured on the photos are made from vintage NOS casein), and other Hot Jazz guitar-related goodies, look-up Mr. Thomas Davy.

The Ménilmontant Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Herringbone weave blend of cotton/wool, a covert cloth mixing indigo blue, black and slate grey yarns. Milled in Japan.
Body Lining: 100% cotton indigo woven stripe ticking.
Arm Lining: 100% indigo Sugar Cane Co Wabash twill.

DETAILS:
* Inspired by 1920’s-1930’s haberdashery and French vintage Gentlemen’s suiting.
* Period silhouette with elegant lines, cinched natural waist and broad chest and shoulders.
* 1930’s type belted-back.
* Single-breasted featuring curvy wide peak lapels.
* Four patch pockets with buttoned flaps.
* Corozzo wood buttons, amber color.
* Fully lined (combination of indigo stripe ticking and indigo Wabash twill).
* Two inside concealed chest pockets.
* MF® mfsc “GYPSY BLUES” woven rayon label.

SIZING/FIT:
The Ménilmontant Jacket comes raw/unwashed. If so inclined, get some light puckering and fabric roping with a 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry. This garment runs true to size following this process.
I wear a fitted size 38 (Medium), my usual size in mfsc jackets and coats.

Refer to chart for raw/cold-soaked & line-dry measurements.

CARE:
We recommend hand washing (or machine-wash on delicate, if you use a high-end washing machine), cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not boil this garment, nor set washing-machine to normal/heavy agitation.

Available RAW/unwashed.
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (X-Large)
44 (XX-Large)
Retail $549.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017