Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc
10 Year Anniversary Collection
To mark ten prolific years of collaborations with our friends at Toyo Enterprises (i.e. Sugar Cane Co) this Fall 2016, we have decided to revive some pattern oldies, and to have fun with a few mfsc bygone goodies along the ride! Some of you might remember the original versions from our early days, pre-iPhone and pre-Facebook, but most will just discover them as new timeless garments.
Note: One of the jacket coming out this fall is a brand new collaboration with Tailor Toyo, in the footsteps of our popular “Party Jacket“, the limited edition “Mururoa Jacket”…
Each one of these pieces is a manufacturing tour de force, from limited run fabric looming, deep dark tone indigo dyeing, to the actual precise cut and sew process. This compact, no filler Anniversary collection is masterfully crafted in Japan by the Sugar Cane Co usual network of skilled workers, expert artisans and family-run secret factories. We at Mister Freedom® are all grateful and blessed to have been involved with such fine company since 2006, when a hand shake and a Gentlemen’s agreement sealed the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane on-going collaboration, somewhat still of a UFO in the world of fashion. Mina Sama, Okagesama de!
If our MF® Fall 2016 Sportsman collection has already been fully completed this year, the above mfsc Anniversary collection will get to us… when it gets to us. We have always preferred to have our clothes made right and well, rather than cheap and fast.
Over the years, some of you have lived, worked, slept, sailed, swam, camped, gotten married, found jobs, built motorcycles, partied, travelled on horseback, performed on stage, raced, hung from canopies… in our gear. This sure makes us happy, as we don’t design ‘em to stay in closets.
We hope to have contributed in making you look your best, feeling like a natural-born world-shaker at times, and we will strive to continue doing so, our way.
Thank you all for your support, magnanimity and patience for the past decade or so.
The MF® Team.
Soon available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email firstname.lastname@example.org or call 323-653-2014 with any questions or to reserve a specific garment/size.
Stay tuned on the social media for ETA notifications.
Smoking is NOT a smart thing to do, but there’s hope for all. I’ve quit since then.
MFxBR “PENSACOLA Seaplane Jacket, Intermediate”
Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s 20th Anniversary Jacket
We were honored to be involved with our friends at BUZZ RICKSON’S celebration of their 20th Anniversary this year.
To commemorate their dedication and passion at making outstanding mil-specs replica garments for two decades as a branch of Toyo Enterprises, Mr. Kameya (Buzz Rickson’s Skipper) give us carte blanche for a special limited edition piece, granting access to the entire BR catalog of trims/fabrics and expert manufacturing. Oh boy…
MF® came up with a simplified scenario to make this jacket ‘plausible’, aiming for solid and timeless, as the pieces that usually inspire us. After research and some hours on the drawing table, the MFxBR “Pensacola Seaplane Jacket” started shaping up:
The “Naval Air Station Pensacola” in Florida (NAS Pensacola) has been the cradle of Naval Aviation since WW1, where all involved personnel got to train (aviators, Navy flyers, Marines, ground crew, Officers, Seabees…). Read its rich history here.
Well, we had our name… now we just needed a jacket.
For the design, we imagined that a special test/prototype jacket had been developed by the Naval Air Factory (NAF), to be worn on Base and for training only. It combined vintage elements of Navy and Air Force issued jackets, and was adopted by crews of specific Joint Operations (involving Seaplanes, flyers and sea crews…)
We came up with a type of early Military flight jacket that could have existed. We blended decades of pre WW2 flight apparel History, freely borrowing from iconic mil-specs jackets and willingly mixing eras. Our inspiration came from:
* late 1920’s type A-1 leather jackets
* Late 1930’s “Jacket, flying, Intermediate, Jungle cloth” (OD jungle cloth/zipper/A-1 style knit collar)
* M-422 leather Jacket that replaced the jungle cloth in 1938 ( later to morph into Type G-1 jackets)…
* Our speculative imagination, vintage archives, NOS trims vault, and the usual added grain of salt.
Why navy and white? Well we figured these were not unpopular colors in the USN and USAAF, and this being an amphibious Op type garment it made sense. The corduroy lining is a nod to the hand-warmer pockets of early Peacoats, same specs and shade. The single layer waist band wool knit is that of Type M-422 Jackets, cuffs those of A-2 Jackets, but in natural color.
To spice it up we dug out an old stock of military ‘ring’ removable buttons. We were lucky to get our hands on some rare NOS composite white buttons, with an engraved anchor, in their original Gov’t issued packaging.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and expertly crafted in Japan by Buzz Rickson’s of Toyo Enterprises in a one-time limited edition.
In the US and EU, the MFxBR Pensacola Jacket is only available from Mister Freedom®.
PATTERN: An original MFxBR pattern, inspired by vintage American mil-specs flight apparel.
Body: 14 oz. all cotton “jungle cloth”, originally developed for the US Navy for its sturdiness/softness/strength/protection qualities while at sea under harsh conditions. Famous for its application in the USN Type N-1 deck jackets. Milled in Japan to exact period mil-specs.
Lining: Cotton mid wade corduroy.
* Slim silhouette, one piece back.
* Mil-specs wool knit cuffs, waist band and collar band.
* Cotton corduroy full lining.
* Navy CPO shirt type anchor buttons collar fastening.
* A-1 type front flap patch pockets, with corduroy lining.
* Metal snap waist band closure.
* Detachable white composite anchor ring buttons for front closure, vintage military New Old Stock.
* Underarm venting metal eyelets.
* Original Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s double labeling and ‘contract’ tag, a nod to early USAAF ‘modified’ flying gear.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
The ‘Pensacola’ runs true to size. I am usual a medium/38 in MFSC coats and jackets, and wear a size 38 in this jacket.
We recommend professional eco-friendly dry cleaning when needed. Remove the ring buttons before cleaning (they unhook from the metal ring of the button by rotating the fastener from the under side). Store them and don’t lose them!
The jacket is also hand washable, in cold water, if really needed. Hang dry only.
The 100% cotton jungle cloth is sanforized and some minimal shrinkage and ‘torquing’ will occur if washed.
Please refer to sizing chart below for raw/rinsed measurements (‘rinsed’ = soaked in cold water for 30mn, spin dry and hang dry). Original rinsing is optional and for reference only.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes 36 (small), 38 (medium), 40 (large), 42 (Xlarge), 44 (XXlarge)
Please call 323-653-2014 or Email email@example.com to get yours while they last. Available from Mister Freedom® HQ in Los Angeles, and from our online store.
Thank you all 😉
(Note: The painted jacket in the photo was just a custom prototype we did for BUZZ RICKSON’S 20th Anniversary party. Production comes WITHOUT any graphics, of course)
MFSC “Les Apaches” Spring 2011 Collection: Introducing ‘ze’ Pantalon Apache!
I know. We’re late. But the deliveries from our Japanese partners have been quite delayed this season, for obvious reasons. We don’t really mind the delay, since our MFSC collections do not follow trends, seasons or reason.
So here they are, ’em anticipated stripey breeches!
Inspired by turn of the century to 1930′s French tailor-made gent garb, our Pantalon Apache come in three different fabric options. Woven in Japan exclusively for MFSC, the fabrics were developed from vintage swatches and samples of 100 year old textiles from our archives. They are not replicas, as we changed some yarn colour combinations, tones and texture, giving them our trademark twist. The fabrics are 100% cotton, making them drape and feel the way we wanted. They were a real endeavour to mill and had some people pulling their hair in the process…
The trousers can be matched with our Gilet de Ville, cut from the same cloth. Throw a Veste Ouvrier on top to dress them down, or a vintage leather coat or blazer… Also great with a simple white Marcel (French slang for tank-top undershirt, aka “wife-beater”, no offense Mesdemoiselles), for the BBQ months. Add your own vintage buttons to hook-up your suspenders. Dress shoes, motorcycle boots or clunky old work shoes… Work it out pally! Nice break from the daily denim accoutrement.
Check out our friend “Mr. French CanCan“, aka Vilbo Jr. from Toulouse, interresting 5 part retrospective on the Parisian Apache culture. Great read and photos for inspiration.
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by early French tailor-made suiting. 1930’s silhouette with higher-rise and fuller legs.
FABRIC: Milled in Japan, in small limited batches, exclusive to MFSC. The three options are NOT an alternate colour way of the same woven fabric, rather three totally differently woven fabrics as follow:
* GREY COVERT STRIPE: 10 Oz., all cotton, double cloth, 6 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
* INDIGO STRIPE BLUE: 8 Oz., all cotton, 7 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
* COVERT STRIPE BROWN: 8 Oz., all cotton, 5 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
WAIST & POCKET LINING: All cotton MFSC stripe ticking and original MFSC Métisse 50% cotton/50% Linen plain weave, indigo dyed and black pigment coated.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s).
*Side adjustement slide buckle straps, with original NOS French metal hardware.
* Two back pocket with button dart flaps.
* Concealed waist hook, original NOS French metal hardware.
* “V” belt loops.
* “American” cuffs.
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: All fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer, this gilet de ville, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops. Yo Captain, ain’t ya tired of ze plug???…it’s just that we REALLY love ’em boxes!
SHRINKAGE: All fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer (or shouldn’t, should one get the urge to do so), this pantalon Apache, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
All three fabric have different shrinkage specs, so RAW measurements of a same size will differ slightly from on cloth to another. After rinse and dry all three trousers options will fit the same.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized and labelled in french…
Click on chart below for Raw/Rinsed measurements (we do our best to measure accurately, but although sober, three different people measuring will come up with three different results… so the chart is APPROXIMATE):
Limited Edition, designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist US 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email firstname.lastname@example.org or email@example.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like, and not what others do.
MFSC Spring 2011 “Les Apaches“: Pantalon Ouvrier (workman’s trousers)
We are very happy to have the fourth installment of our MFSC spring Apaches collection finaly in ze house!
Inspired but late 1800’s – 1900’s French military bourgerons trousers (often made of HBT natural colour linen) and early French workers garb, our Pantalon Ouvrier falls into the “denim” part of the collection. The trousers are available in two fabric options: Métisse Indigo dyed twill and Indigo Stripe ticking, both inspired by early French workwear textiles, then the Old World equivalent to American denim.
The silhouette is reminiscent of turn of the century imagery, a slimmer type fit, narrower legs with a higher rise.
You can make them look ‘dressy’ or ouvrier, according to what you pair them with…
PATTERN: An all original MFSC pattern and fit, inspired by early french work pants and military issued chore trousers.
FABRIC: Two options (fabrics loomed in Japan exclusively for MFSC):
A) INDIGO Métisse: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light…
B) INDIGO Rayure (ticking): 8 oz. indigo/white warp and black weft striped twill, herringbone weave, white selvedge, un-sanforized (respectfully lifted from a late 1800′s swatch of french textile). Fades…
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozonatural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900′s to 1940′s). “MFSC déposé” engraved buttons combination.
SUSPENDERS: The trousers come with matching fabric removable suspenders, inspired by overalls straps.
HARDWARE: NOS original French hook secure waist closure. Buckle back with our NOS sharp prong buckle (guaranteed to blahhh).
BACK GUSSET: Contrast indigo dyed popeline.
POCKETING: Two front slash pockets, one watch pocket, two back slash pockets secured by button ‘dart flap’.
Pocket lining is with contrast fabric (métisse for the ticking body, and ticking with the métisse body… try that for the King’s Speech part.)
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
WASHING: Both fabric option come RAW/unwashed, and will shrink lightly with washing/drying. Your trousers will fade overtime, according to wear. Remember that you do not get good ‘wear marks’ from washing but from wearing.
I recommend an initial quick cold soak, without agitation, to initiate original shrinkage and hang dry.
Then, when needed, cold delicate wash, minimal eco-friendly detergent and hang dry.
DO NOT get a size up and BOIL them when you realize they are not skinny jeans.
MF® does not make skinny jeans…
SIZING & SHRINKAGE: The trousers are labeled and marked in French.
We measured the trousers with the back gusset fully open. A fully close gusset (with maximun back strap cinching) reduces the waist by about 1 and half inch all around.
Click on chart below to see RAW and RINSED measurements (missing measurements will be updated asap.)
LIMITED EDITION. Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Indigo Métisse (solid): Retail $599.95
Indigo Rayure Ticking (stripe): Retail $549.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email firstname.lastname@example.org or email@example.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. Thank you for your support.
The métisse and ticking pantalons ouvrier featured in the above photos have been WORN on/off for about 2 months, washed cold about 5 times, minimal soap, hang dry. NFS. Production trousers are NOT distressed and are available UNWASHED only.
MFSC “Midnight Riders”, Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane, Spring 2010: The “Speed Safe Clothing for Modern Riders” Collection.
Man, do we love those dungarees here! Can’t stop wearing them and noticing the indigo abrasion everyday. Impossible for me to photographically capture the beauty of the fabric, but the combo indigo “soaked” yarn warp and black dyed yarn weft has a life of it’s own. You’ll see…
The face of the raw fabric looks like a rich very dark indigo/black. The inside looks black.
* Pattern: An all original MFSC pattern, inspired by twill work chino pants, old denim dungarees and European 20’s-30’s slacks.
* Fabric: 10 oz. original MFSC exclusive denim cotton twill, milled in Japan. Indigo warp x black weft. Royal blue selvedge ID. Non-sanforized (=not pre-shrunk).
Expect an average shrinkage of 5%, and recurring shrinking/stretching with wash and wear. Wash with COLD water, minimal mild detergent to keep the indigo contrast and starch.
* Silhouette: 1930’s work slacks, straight leg.
* Pockets: Slash front pockets/Back “never ripum” style pockets/Ankle “tools-maps” pockets/Watch-Zippo pocket.
* Pocketing: MFSC original blue Chambray (end-on-end) cotton. NOS plaid fabric lining for watch-Zippo pocket.
* Waist Band: Reinforcement parallel row stitching. Exposed selvedge on inside.
* Buttons: Steel black painted donut type. Crest donut waist and suspenders buttons (Ready for the now available original MF® Utility Braces!)
* Belt Loops: Rear “no-sag” wide belt loop, with rayon MFSC label.
* Rivets: Steel, gun metal
* Cinch Straps: Side straps, blue chambray lining. US Military style hardware.
* Stitching: 100% cotton black thread, hi-count stitching.
* Origin: Designed in California by Mister Freedom®, crafted in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
(Available RAW/unwashed. Sizes 28×31.5, 30×32, 31×32, 32×34, 34×35, 36×35, 38×36. Retail $439.95)
Call (323) 653-2014 or mail firstname.lastname@example.org to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
The “Midnight Riders” featured on the photos are my own (dirty) pair, worn raw for about 1+ month, still unwashed, NFS.
Stock issues are RAW and not artificially aged. Get your own whiskers, baby! Also expect some indigo “bleeding” on underwear or undershirts, goes with the territory…You can soak the garment in water/vinegar to limit that.