Mister freedom® “ARISTOCRAT” Shirt, NOS Dobby Stripes Edition, mfsc FW2021, made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® “ARISTOCRAT” Shirt, selvedge oxford cloth.
FW2020 mfsc Sportsman catalog
Made in USA

The Mister Freedom® ARISTOCRAT is our humble attempt at a straight-up stylish dress shirt, made in USA.

This original pattern was initially introduced to our Sportsman catalog during Fall 2020, a fancy selvedge Oxford cloth release in two classic color options, white and blue.

 The all-original design of our ARISTOCRAT was inspired by several vintage American and European classic dress and sport shirts from our archives.
Our intent was to merge traditional tailoring details with our own ideas, and simply create an elegant, unpretentious and versatile garment, a modern classic filled with subtle vintage references.
The connoisseur will notice the nod to gents’ outfitters Turnbull & Asser – and other bespoke shirtmakers – in our choice of “Regent” spread collar shape (dig that nice curve), although we opted for an unstructured collar construction (no fusing) for a more casual vibe.

We wanted the chest pocket design to be all ours and serve as outside branding, rather than an embroidered logo. Our R&D team got extra cups of brain juice to reinvent the wheel, one that would spin our own yarn. Sketches were drawn-up, prototypes made from scratch, and a eureka moment came sometime in February 2020 when an all-original pocket finally surfaced from the drafting table. We had our ARISTOCRAT classic chest pocket: a simple diamond shape with an elegant curved fold and streamlined stitching.

Original Mister Freedom® ARISTOCRAT chest pocket design, early proto and how-to ©2020 Knock yourself out, Bob Dong.

The specific off-set shirt tail cut, front button placket construction, and double button rounded cuffs, were also thoroughly considered and tweaked until it all worked out for our aesthetics.
The shirred rear panel with its rounded piecing patch is a detail borrowed from early European shirting, and, along with the classic side gussets displaying the fabric’s selvedge, add to the refined and subtle vintage appeal of the ARISTOCRAT.

To our delight, the US factory did a remarquable job with the stitch count, closely following tech pack for the magic high number, matched by a fine thread gauge. Because of obvious productivity issues, it is often a challenge to convince factory owners of committing to higher-count stitching settings. This can almost double production time (= double production cost), but the results are stunning and always make a garment stand-out next to a more hastily-constructed one. Anyone able to spot a cheap suit will notice the difference.
So, tip of the hat to our family-run local Los Angeles factory, who not only faced unprecedented challenges in both 2020 and 2021, but kept her steady and fully delivered again this season.

The ARISTOCRAT is complimented by genuine mother of pearl buttons, another reference to traditional European bespoke tailoring, while the chainstitch construction (using MF® signature green contrast stitching) brings it down a few notches with a workwear touch (bespoke shirts often feature French seams, not chainstitch.)
The discreet red bartack on the gusset is a nod to the red stitched “H” of the iconic Hathaway brand, one of the last American shirtmaker to produce shirts in the USA, until they gave up on that endeavor around 2002…
For the silhouette, we opted for a trim fit, adjusting body pattern and side curves to convey broad shoulders and slim waist, balancing with a traditional shirt tail length.

For this FW2021 release of the ARISTOCRAT, we scored some yardage of a fancy New Old Stock Dobby Stripe fabric. The Dobby weave vertical stripe pattern is textured, a combo of grayish blue and gold stripes on an off-white background. This elegant 100% cotton shirting fabric has a probable Italian origin, and a definitely fancy textile pedigree.
Bottom line, the ARISTOCRAT is a reimagined vintage-style dress shirt that morphed into a versatile, casual, easy go-to garment, dressed-up with a suit or down with a pair of blue jeans, worn with a tie or open collar, tucked or untucked.

The MF® ARISTOCRAT Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage American and European classic dress shirts and sport shirts.
FABRIC:
Fancy 100% cotton Dobby Stripe weave, subtle combo of grayish blue and gold stripes on an off-white background. New Old Stock. Probable Italian mill origin.
DETAILS:
* An original MF® reimagined dress shirt. Classic, versatile, elegant yet casual shirt style.
* Slim and trim silhouette.
* Classic spread collar with British flair.
* Original chest pocket design, diamond shape with MF® signature curved fold and streamline pocket stop stitching.
* Rear panel shirring with rounded piecing patch.
* Side gussets.
* Off-set shirt tail lengths (slightly longer rear tail).
* Red bartacks accent on gusset.
* Genuine mother of pearl buttons.
* Double-button rounded cuffs.
* Elegant front button placket pattern.
* High-stitch count and fine thread gauge construction.
* Chainstitch construction with signature inside contrast olive green stitching.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Sportsman” rayon woven label.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The ARISTOCRAT Shirt in NOS Dobby Stripes comes unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. This is a low-maintenance garment as it is designed to go through many wash/wear cycles, and we recommend this protocol before wear:

  • Machine rinse, delicate settings, cold water, machine spin dry.
  • Line dry. (No heat dryer)

I opted for a Medium for a trim, yet not too tight fit, my usual size in mfsc shirting. I am 5’7 ~150 lbs. We recommend getting your usual size in MF® shirts, if you like a trim fit.
CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® smashing Continental Sportcoat & Bermudas combo! Sportsman catalog, made in USA.

This summer, pair your Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat with the Continental Bermudas to create your own smashing look at the pool party!

The inseam on the MF® Bermudas averages about 10 inches, but, on a kick with shorts lately, I went ahead and cropped all of mine. Chopped 6 inches from the inseam, 6.5 from the outseam.
The combo sportcoat/matching shorts is an acquired taste, but it works with the heat.
Also featured here with the stripe Continental Bermudas are my beat-up hickory MF® Conductor and red Tricot Marin, for a razzle dazzle touch guaranteed to confuse a bat.

The Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat and Continental Bermudas are available from our made-in-USA SPORTSMAN catalog.

Sign up to our newsletter on www.misterfreedom.com for occasional updates on releases and sale events.

Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® CONDUCTOR Jacket, NOS hickory stripe twill, Sportsman Catalog Spring 2018, Made in USA.

 

The Musicaladers (with Bing Crosby), 1920’s. Lareida’s dancehall, Spokane Valley, WA. (Photo courtesy The Spokesman)

Evolution of the NOS Hickory stripe twill: Unworn/unwashed MF® Conductor Jacket (2018) and worn/washed Sportsman Shirt (2013)

MF® CONDUCTOR Jacket, vintage NOS selvedge hickory stripe twill.
Sportsman Catalog, Spring 2018
Made in USA.

The MF® CONDUCTOR pattern, a fancy denim jacket style for the caboose-inclined and vintage iron horse connoisseur, was originally added to our ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog during the Spring of 2017.

During R&D, we were aiming at a work jacket design standing out from other traditional chore coats, engineer jacket, railroad jackets, farmer jackets of the same family. We grabbed a few pointers from our 1920’s-inspired Loco Jacket (“Viva La Revolución”, Spring 2013), and built the CONDUCTOR from scratch, with all original pocket designs and details. Blending elegant tailoring touches with vintage workwear functional ruggedness, we cooked-up a garment with both rugged trainman and gentleman passenger in mind. Our Conductor Jacket makes it easy to switch from shoveling coal to sipping a libation at the plush red velvet wagon-bar, with the usual MF® grain of salt.

The first release of the Conductor was in a favorite fabric of ours, the “Malibu Sea” denim.

For Spring 2018, the MF® Conductor Jacket gets cut from another mfsc favorite, a vintage New Old Stock hickory stripe lightweight twill that came out of an old warehouse in Southern California. We were lucky to score a few rolls of that goodness, and thought the hickory stripes were a perfect match for our old-school railroad worker-inspired jacket. The exact same fabric was featured on the Mister Freedom® “Sportsman Shirt” from 2013, so we are providing a few evo photos for reference.

Whether worn as a top garment or as a layer under another ¾ length coat, with a classic bowtie à-la Bing Crosby’s Musicaladers, with a simple T-shirt or chambray workshirt à-la Choo-Choo Charlie, the MF® Conductor Jacket is pretty versatile. The numerous pockets make it quite a practical garment when running around town or traveling.

The Conductor Jacket is designed by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Vintage 100% cotton New Old Stock lightweight twill, hickory stripe pattern, origin USA.

DETAILS:
* An all original mfsc pattern inspired by early American workwear and European tailoring, vintage 1920’s-30’s chore coats and denim engineer jackets.
* Four original MF® pocket-shape designs.
* Elegant front panel cut-away.
* Watch compartment on left chest pocket.
* Pockets lined/half-lined with NOS 2×1 indigo denim.
* Inside iPhone chest pocket
* Black oxidized donut wreath buttons.
* Collar chin strap with contrast copper donut button.
* Split back panel, displaying selvedge ID.
* Selvedge front panel facing, cuffs and watch pocket opening slit.
* Side cinch straps, French NOS metal buckles.
* Contrasting green chainstitch, bar-tacks and button holes.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Conductor Jacket comes UN-WASHED (=raw) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments:

* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
The garment will stiffen when dry following this initial routine, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and the ‘crispiness’ will subside with normal wear.

I opted for a size 38 (Medium), for a relaxed fit. I could fit a size 36 but preferred having the option to layer in colder weather.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.

CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Some light indigo blue transfer to the white yarns might occur. This is normal and will subside over time and subsequent wash cycles.

Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Retail $ 329.95
Available from our Los Angeles ol’ pile o’ rags, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018