 The Musicaladers (with Bing Crosby), 1920’s. Lareida’s dancehall, Spokane Valley, WA. (Photo courtesy The Spokesman) 
 Evolution of the NOS Hickory stripe twill: Unworn/unwashed MF® Conductor Jacket (2018) and worn/washed Sportsman Shirt (2013) 
MF® CONDUCTOR Jacket, vintage NOS selvedge hickory stripe twill.
Sportsman Catalog, Spring 2018
Made in USA.
The MF® CONDUCTOR pattern, a fancy denim jacket style for the caboose-inclined and vintage iron horse connoisseur, was originally added to our ever-growing Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog during the Spring of 2017.
During R&D, we were aiming at a work jacket design standing out from other traditional chore coats, engineer jacket, railroad jackets, farmer jackets of the same family. We grabbed a few pointers from our 1920’s-inspired Loco Jacket (“Viva La Revolución”, Spring 2013), and built the CONDUCTOR from scratch, with all original pocket designs and details. Blending elegant tailoring touches with vintage workwear functional ruggedness, we cooked-up a garment with both rugged trainman and gentleman passenger in mind. Our Conductor Jacket makes it easy to switch from shoveling coal to sipping a libation at the plush red velvet wagon-bar, with the usual MF® grain of salt.
The first release of the Conductor was in a favorite fabric of ours, the “Malibu Sea” denim.
For Spring 2018, the MF® Conductor Jacket gets cut from another mfsc favorite, a vintage New Old Stock hickory stripe lightweight twill that came out of an old warehouse in Southern California. We were lucky to score a few rolls of that goodness, and thought the hickory stripes were a perfect match for our old-school railroad worker-inspired jacket. The exact same fabric was featured on the Mister Freedom® “Sportsman Shirt” from 2013, so we are providing a few evo photos for reference.
Whether worn as a top garment or as a layer under another ¾ length coat, with a classic bowtie à-la Bing Crosby’s Musicaladers, with a simple T-shirt or chambray workshirt à-la Choo-Choo Charlie, the MF® Conductor Jacket is pretty versatile. The numerous pockets make it quite a practical garment when running around town or traveling.
The Conductor Jacket is designed by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Vintage 100% cotton New Old Stock lightweight twill, hickory stripe pattern, origin USA.
DETAILS:
* An all original mfsc pattern inspired by early American workwear and European tailoring, vintage 1920’s-30’s chore coats and denim engineer jackets.
* Four original MF® pocket-shape designs.
* Elegant front panel cut-away.
* Watch compartment on left chest pocket.
* Pockets lined/half-lined with NOS 2×1 indigo denim.
* Inside iPhone chest pocket
* Black oxidized donut wreath buttons.
* Collar chin strap with contrast copper donut button.
* Split back panel, displaying selvedge ID.
* Selvedge front panel facing, cuffs and watch pocket opening slit.
* Side cinch straps, French NOS metal buckles.
* Contrasting green chainstitch, bar-tacks and button holes.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Conductor Jacket comes UN-WASHED (=raw) and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend our usual method for raw denim garments:
* 30-40mn cold soak with intermittent hand agitation, in minimally-filled washing machine or bath tub.
* Spin dry cycle (if using a machine).
* Hang dry.
The garment will stiffen when dry following this initial routine, due to the re-activated fabric starch contained in the cotton yarns. This is normal and the ‘crispiness’ will subside with normal wear.
I opted for a size 38 (Medium), for a relaxed fit. I could fit a size 36 but preferred having the option to layer in colder weather.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
CARE:
Wash when necessary.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Some light indigo blue transfer to the white yarns might occur. This is normal and will subside over time and subsequent wash cycles.
Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
Retail $ 329.95
Available from our Los Angeles ol’ pile o’ rags, from www.misterfreedom.com, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018
 
 
 
MISTER FREEDOM® x SUGAR CANE Spring 2011 Collection “Les Apaches”: VESTE OUVRIER
Voila l’été…et voila les Apaches!
I would like to thank everyone involved in making this collection a reality, all the believers, supporters, risk takers and hard workers, especially our friends at Sugar Cane Co for their unconditional support with this new MFSC collaboration.
MFSC Veste Ouvrier (workman’s jacket):
Inspired by early french work wear gear, the first installment of the MFSC Apache collection is a our version of a french worker’s coat. We combined elements of several 1900’s to 1940’s pieces to make our veste ouvrier. We kinda like that one…
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern and fit, inspired by early french bleu de chauffe.
FABRIC: Two options (fabrics loomed in Japan exclusively for MFSC):
A) INDIGO Métisse: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light…
B) INDIGO Rayure: 8 oz. indigo/white warp and black weft striped twill, herringbone weave, white selvedge, un-sanforized (respectfully lifted from a late 1800’s swatch of french textile). Fades…
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s). Five button-front.
DETAILS:
* Original slanted button holes, to keep straight vertical closure.
* Inside white cotton twill pocket backing, to reinforce pocket top edges.
* Concealed chest pocket, with flap covering the MFSC woven label (NO visible branding/logo, so you don’t feel like a billboard…).
* Cinch back belt, with original french NOS metal sharp-prong buckle (DISCLAIMER: guaranteed to mess up your car seat, but we figured they have been around on battle fileds and in factories since the 1840’s, so we’re taking the risk in 2011…). The buckle is removable and you can switch to one that fits your needs.
* Concealed chin strap.
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle french seams, no overlock nor chainstitch. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: Both fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink lightly with cold wash/hang dry.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized/labelled in french! (all the way, baby…).
92 (small), 97 (medium), 102 (large), 107(Xlarge), 112(XXlarge)
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork will be featured on the Apache Collection box tops. Merci M’sieur Pat’…☺
LIMITED EDITION: For US and EU, a total of 130 jackets were made
A) 70 pieces of INDIGO Métisse veste Ouvrier
B) 60 pieces of INDIGO Rayure veste Ouvrier
Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes S, M, L, XL, XXL
Indigo Métisse (solid): Retail $579.95
Indigo Rayure (stripe): Retail $549.95
NOTE:
The Indigo métisse veste ouvrier featured in the above photos has been worn ‘in the field’ on/off for about 2 months, washed cold about 5 times, minimal soap, hang dry. NFS. Production jackets are NOT distressed and are available UNWASHED only.
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
    
From the late 1800’s all the way to the first half of the 20th Century, a dreaded future for french draftees and ruffians was to “get sent to Biribi.”
The term Biribi encompassed penitentiaries in Algeria and Morocco. Often associated with the Bat’ d’Af’ (French military disciplinary battalions of North Africa), Biribi was the solution chosen by the French government to tame hard headed rebels, anarchists and other misfits.
Youngsters with a misdemeanor police record, individuals who had tried to dodge the draft (common practice was to stick a rusty fork in your thigh to invalidate yourself…), or just had an issue with authority, ended up doing time under the blazing sun in the ol’ African French Colonies. Fun activities included breaking piles of hot rocks, building never ending roads, enduring constant humiliation such as the infamous crapaudine, but mainly learning the ropes for a future life in the underworld. Biribi made the tough tougher and buried the weak.
Biribi and other French colonies penitentiaries (Bagne de Cayenne…) disappeared in the mid 1950’s, after numerous testimonies of survivors had shaken public opinion, and international pressure had forced the government to change its penal system. The year 1972 marked the official dissolution of the last Bat’ d’Af’ unit.
On a lighter note, Biribi will be the background for a small limited edition group of garments. We will be using NOS (New Old Stock) rolls of disparate vintage fabrics, mainly cotton/linen homespun style early french textiles and selvedge stripe ticking twills, NOS vintage buttons/trims and single needle machine construction. Early French bourgerons (military work dungarees) were often made of unbleached linen or linen/cotton blends, plain or HBT weave. The use of stripe fabrics for early penitentiary gear is believed to be a way to facilitate the spotting of escapees, before they could get their hands on more blending outfits…
The MF “Biribi Bourgerons” pictured above are a sample of our small production.
Available One Wash (preshrunk)
Made in USA
Assorted Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL
Retail $249.95: Shrinkage varies from one NOS fabric to the other. It is impossible for us to make a graded sizing pattern for each textile, so slight differences in fits are to be expected with each style. Some styles will not be available in all sizes. On the “fit picx” (this is JUST to get an idea), our Lady model is wearing an XSmall, John a Medium, CL a Small. The fits are left up to the wearer according to which silhouette works for them.
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
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