MF® Ranger Shirt, NOS Cone Mills 7oz “Midnight” Indigo Twill, SS2023 Sportsman catalog, made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® RANGER Shirt, Cone Mills “Midnight” Indigo Twill.
mfsc SS2023 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

One could say that we are quite fond of the RANGER Shirt pattern, since we have, at this point, cut it in about 150 different fabrics since the original 2015-2016 NOS Madras release.

This versatile and timeless pattern is a Mister Freedom® take on classic 1930s-40s workwear-type shirting, a straight forward vintage utilitarian style with the de rigueur chinstrap and side gussets, double box-pleat chest pockets and contrast white poplin button placket.

For this release, we opted for a snazzy “Midnight” indigo twill — indigo warp x black weft, wide loom — fancy New-Old-Stock yardage milled by the original Cone Mills White Oak plant, Greensboro, NC. This all-cotton 7 Oz. twill has a deep dark indigo color face, and will age gracefully with normal wear/wash cycles.

If the ‘Ranger’ name hints at rugged Park and Forest Rangers and the early days of Conservationism, our “Midnight” Ranger is as comfortable in the woods, at the office, on a date, around town, or at home.

The Mister Freedom® Ranger Shirt Cone Mills “Midnight” Indigo Twill is designed and made in California, CA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Cut from NOS fabric milled in USA.

SPECS:
FABRICS:
100% cotton 7 Oz. “Midnight” indigo twill, indigo warp x black weft, wide loom, New Old Stock Cone Mills fabric milled in USA.

DETAILS:
* Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by 1930s-40s workwear shirting and vintage utilitarian styles.
* Trim fit.
* Double chest pockets, inverted box-pleat, red bartack accents.
* Chin strap.
* Full button front with contrast white poplin button placket.
* Vintage-style classic “Cat Eyes” corozo wood buttons.
* Side gussets, rounded shirt tails.
* Chainstitch construction, 100% cotton thread, tonal stitching, high count.
* MF® Sportsman signature contrast green “caballo” stitching inside.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® Ranger Shirt “Midnight” Indigo comes RAW/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
* Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
* Machine spin dry cycle, then line dry.

At 5.7’ ~145 lbs, I opted for a MEDIUM for a rather trim fit. Note that I tend to be a SMALL in most mfsc shirts lately.

Again, this Ranger Shirt “Midnight” Twill runs a bit small, some may consider sizing up, understanding that what will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your clothes to fit.
Please refer to our sizing chart reflecting soaked measurements (= 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.)

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Heat dryer may result in excessive/irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64, “Frontier Duck”, 100% cotton canvas, 12 Oz., rust brown & dark navy. Made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 “Frontier Duck”, 100% cotton canvas, Rust brown & Dark navy.
SS2023 & FW2023 mfsc Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

We’ve issued the Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN in a plethora of premium fabrics through the years.

Since its 2010 introduction, our original classic five-pocket jeans pattern has been released in a wide range of NOS traditional indigo selvedge denims, eclectic premium Japanese fabrics such as double indigo twill, “Midnight” denim, Bedford cord Pique , corduroy, Jungle cloth, and cotton sateen.

For this iteration, we decided to give the CALIFORNIAN Lot64 an old school cotton canvas treatment, a nod to 1960s-70s brown duck 200Z Lee® Riders. For the denim collector, there was a fair amount of Lee® NOS floating around in the vintage world in the early 1990s, easily recognizable by the iconic yellow “boot and bucking bronco” Lee® paper flasher and desirable black/gold waistband label. I remember scoring a few stacks of those canvas specimen in old western wear stores at the time, and also sporting a pair.

For this project, we wanted domestic fabric and went out to source some nice and dry 12 Oz. cotton “Frontier” duck yardage, milled by Mt Vernon Mills in Georgia, USA.

We opted for two color options. A rusty brown similar to our Lee® brown duck jeans source of inspiration – also typical of classic Carhartt workwear – and a deep dark navy blue. For those considering a farmhand tuxedo, please note that the CALIFORNIAN rusty brown “Frontier” duck fabric is of a different dye lot from the “Frontier” Ranch Blouse NOS Duck.

This canvas duck fabric is woven on wide looms, resulting in unfinished edges, i.e. non selvedge. Therefore, as with the Californian Jungle cloth issue, the leg outseams of the pants are finished with overlock, another classic 1970s Lee® jeans trait.

We kept our MF® classic contrast orange/yellow combo stitching for the brown duck, and went tonal for the navy.

As often with our domestic production, we are using older NOS (New-Old-Stock, aka “Dead Stock”) fabric for the pocket bags. Not only as a “vintage aesthetics” choice, but in an effort to always use-up all yardage we have in stock.

Discarding left-over material is common practice in our overproducing fashion industry, an obvious waste of virgin raw material and resources, and pretty much an insult to our species’ intelligence at this point! We can do better.
Valuable and painstakingly-milled unused and uncut fabric yardage, let alone recently-manufactured clothes, should definitely not end up in landfills, nor in smoke.

The Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 jeans, “Frontier Duck Canvas” edition, are designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT64 cut features a traditional fit, classic rise, with a slightly tapered leg for a 50s-60s vibe.

FABRIC:
Dry 100% cotton “Frontier” duck canvas, 12 Oz., milled by Mt Vernon Mills, Georgia, USA.
Two color options, rusty brown and deep dark navy.

Pocket bags:
Brown canvas option: NOS 100% cotton navy blue twill with woven white pinstripe.
Navy canvas option: NOS 100% cotton fancy Dobby stripe weave, grayish/blue stripe on off-white background (left-over yardage from the production of the MF® Aristocrat Shirt.)

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern, featuring a straight leg with a slight taper and a classic mid-to-high rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded metal cast tack buttons, “oxidized” silver color.
* Non-selvedge overlocked leg outseam.
* Fancy NOS fabric 100% cotton pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Hand-debossed leather MF® branded patch on rear pocket, natural veg-tan cowhide for rusty brown canvas version, black tea-core veg-tan cowhide for navy canvas version.
* Contrast stitching on brown canvas version. Twelve types of 100% cotton threads used for construction (gauge and color combination.) Main colors are yellow and orange. Tonal stitching (black) on navy canvas version.
* Riveted coin pocket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bartack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (royal blue).
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT64 Frontier Duck Canvas jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry and line dry.
  • Hang until fully dry.

The canvas Californians are considered true-to-size.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow belly button level, not bellow the hips.
I opted for a W30 in these (5’7 ~142 Lbs.), for a fit silhouette, and went un-hemmed and un-cuffed for “sloppy” period stacking.
The size that will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your jeans to fit.
Please refer to size chart, reflecting rinsed measurements.

CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning the jeans inside out to avoid marbling during laundering. Machine wash, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Potential attractive patina may develop according to one’s activities, and frequency of wear/wash.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® “NOUVELLE VAGUE” Slacks, NOS cotton-linen crosshatch denim. Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® “NOUVELLE VAGUE” Slacks, NOS cotton-linen crosshatch denim.
mfsc SS2023 “Sportsman” catalog.
Made in USA.

We are introducing a new trouser pattern with these swinging Mister Freedom® “NOUVELLE VAGUE” slacks.

Inspired by an unusual pair of vintage late 50s/early 60s French casual cotton twill pants from our archives – probably tailor-made according to the simple seam construction, and the fact that they bore no branding – we revisited the design to merge the vibes of dressy slacks and denim jeans.

The frogmouth front pockets, single rear flap pocket, extended tab waistband with snap closure, narrow belt loops, choice of fabrics and unpretentious suiting vibe all blend together to give the trousers a “French Riviera” casual 1950s-60s fashion flair.
We kept the overlock inseam/outseam/seat construction of the vintage custom-made original, for easy fit alterations with a single-needle machine. See the original twill pants below, with a bit of the R&D process.

The term “Nouvelle Vague” (French for “new wave”) is a reference to avant-garde French art cinema popular at the time. Not for everyone, but it had a worldwide impact on film-making and acting.
Nouvelle Vague” is also the title of a cool 1959 French pop song, a cover of the Coasters’ “Three Cool Cats“. Dig it!

The style of our NV slacks is a nod to classic early 60s looks sported by the likes of Jean-Paul Belmondo in “A Bout De Souffle” (1960), or – the original silver screen Tom Ripley – Alain Delon in “Plein Soleil” (1960), etc…

For this initial release, the trousers are cut from an old mfsc fabric favorite, the elegant NOS crosshatch denim twill (cotton-linen blend 60/40, 8 Oz., milled in Italy) we had scored a while back in two distinct shades of grey, charcoal and slate.
“Crosshatch” refers to the slubby grey warp & natural weft yarns of this twill, which will tend to develop a more pronounced crisscross fading pattern than other denims.

The slacks are quite versatile and can easily handle from a simple T all the way to a fancy shirt.
For a casual suiting vibe, consider pairing them with their matching Continental Sportcoats, slate grey and charcoal grey twills. A matching vest is even available for the Thomas Crown in you, and mis-matching always a cool option.

Side note, the slim belt loops will accommodate 1¼ wide belts, and we are working on a Mister Freedom® x VEB Leather collab!

The MF® Nouvelle Vague slacks, NOS crosshatch denim twill edition, are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by 1950s-60s French casual trousers fashion, merging aesthetics of dressy slacks and denim jeans.

FABRIC:
New Old Stock (NOS) crosshatch denim twill, 60% cotton – 40% linen blend, 8 Oz., milled in Italy.
Available in two color options, slate grey and charcoal grey.

Pocketing: Lightweight NOS woven stripe fabric, navy stripes on white background.

DETAILS:
* Vintage French 1950s-60s fashion, casual yet elegant sportswear vibe.
* Straight leg period silhouette.
* “Frogmouth” front pockets.
* Button fly, corrozo wood buttons.
* Extended tab waistband with snap waist closure, with original MF® branded brass snap button.
* Single rear welt pocket with buttoned flap.
* Slim belt loops, will accommodate 1¼ wide belts.
* Fancy woven stripe pocketing.
* Flat front & darted rear panel for an attractive top block profile.
* Overlock inseam/outseam/seat construction.
* Tonal stitching.
* Tailor shop-style unfinished overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed when wearing your VEB belt.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Nouvelle Vague slacks come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing the garment:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.

These trousers are considered true-to-size, with somewhat of a generous waist.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow belly button level, not bellow the hips.
At 5’7 ~145 Lbs, I opted for a W31 in the Nouvelle Vague, for a very comfortable straight leg silhouette and somewhat fitted top block.

The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your pants to fit. Please refer to our size chart and our way of measuring pants.

For the leg bottom, I went with a DIY blind (hand) stitch 1¼ inch hem.
Make sure you fully rinse the garment before you commit to cropping the leg to your cuffing preference. Style-wise, we recommend hemming and not “roll-up” cuffing.

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE when needed, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Refrain from using the “heavy-duty” cycle setting on your home washer. Using a heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

 

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans Lot64 OG23, NOS Cone Mills 12.75 Oz organic denim, mfsc SS2023. Made in USA

 

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 Cone OG23, new & worn (~3 months + 1 full wash)

“Who, moi?”

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 Cone OG23, worn ~3 months + 1 full wash.

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 Cone OG23, new & worn (~8 months + 3 washes)

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 Cone OG23, new & worn (~8 months + 3 washes)

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 Cone OG23, new & worn (~8 months + 3 washes)

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 Cone OG23, new & worn (~8 months + 3 washes)

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 OG23, NOS Cone Mills 12.75 Oz. organic selvedge denim.
mfsc SS2023 Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

The MF® Californian LOT64 OG23 blue jeans, “NOS Cone Mills organic denim” edition, are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT64 cut features a traditional fit, classic rise, with a slightly tapered leg for a 50s-60s vibe.

FABRIC:
New Old Stock (NOS) Cone Mills organic denim, 12.75 Oz., white/indigo stripe selvedge ID.

Pocketing: Fancy NOS dobby stripe woven fabric, subtle combo of grayish blue and gold stripes on an off-white background, 100% cotton. Probable Italian mill origin.

DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded ‘silver’ tack buttons.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* Selvedge ID is actual indigo!
* Fancy NOS fabric pocketing.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Natural cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket. Will patinate with age.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads used for construction (gauge and color combination.) Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bar-tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (brown).
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The Californian LOT64 OG23 blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Machine spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to shape and set creases, then hang until fully dry.

These Lot64 OG23 are considered true-to-size, with somewhat of a generous fit.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow belly button level, not bellow the hips.
I (5’7 ~145 Lbs.) opted for a W31 in these, for a very comfortable silhouette, and went un-hemmed and un-cuffed for “sloppy” period stacking for a change.
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. Please refer to size chart.

CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning indigo blue/denim garments inside out to avoid marbling during laundering. Machine wash, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Please note that dark indigo might cause color transfer, and potentially “bleed” on light-colored garments, furniture, and skin. This indigo color “crocking” is temporary.
Potential attractive patina will develop according to one’s activities, and frequency of wear/wash.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® CAMPUS Blouse (Campus Jacket), Midnight Denim Edition, mfsc SS2023. Made in USA

 

Campus Blouse, Midnight Denim edition
SS2023 mfsc Sportsman catalog
Made in USA

We introduced our original veg-tan leather Campus Jacket sometime in 2013, and have been considering a fabric version ever since.

After 10 years of procrastination, and about 3 years of actual R&D, we’re proud to announce the official release of the Campus Blouse Midnight Denim edition!

A bit of manufacturing background story, for those interested.

With the obvious challenges of having to adapt the overall pattern to an entirely new material (leather and woven fabric are two very different beasts in regards to garment construction), the need to tediously re-work seam allowance, using entirely different sewing machines, reevaluating feasibility/functionality of trims, adjusting fit according to fabric shrinkage, investing in costly repeat prototypes and pre-prod sample making, etc…, we had to delay the initial release several times.

For example, the cuff construction and sleeve-mounting technique used on our leather Campus did not work with a fabric shell. Since the Campus Jacket has an unforgiving no-lining design (i.e. no way to hide cheap overlock seams and unsightly construction under a fancy fabric lining), we decided to use the alternative sleeve/cuff pattern of our Ranch Blouse instead. Both Campus and RB morphed into a “Campus Blouse”, if you will, in perfect harmony, with a clean, sturdy, flat-felled “caballo” stitch construction.
Side note, “caballo” is how we refer to the traditional denim flat-felled seam stitch here in California, because most skilled factory operators are latinos, and the industrial chainstitch sewing machine they use kinda looks like a horse head. (caballo is Spanish for horse.)

Also, due to fabric thickness issues with the seams/caballo machine folding foot, we had to source out a lighter ounce denim for the side gussets and pocketing/welting fabric. We scored a NOS premium double indigo twill, with a subtle and attractive indigo color contrast.
No need to flash denim selvedge like it was 2007 either, so the selvedge ID of the main 16 Oz MD denim is concealed inside various structural seams, while the fold of the side gussets offer a peak of the lighter ounce denim selvedge.

Another challenge was the side cinch tabs… We wanted to keep the straps made of leather, along with the pocket stops, but it proved technically impossible to “sandwich” leather straps in the caballo seams without weakening seam construction. So we went back to the drawing table, and worked on a new cinch strap design/shape, inspired by an old number of ours, the Drover Blouse. Mister Freedom® OGs may remember that 2012 production stunt we pulled… Once the new side strap design worked, we had some cutting dies made, and contracted out the leather trims cutting to a local LA leather factory, so that the leather trims could be dropped off at our local LA denim factory…

After all that back and forth, our beloved local family-owned factory – the same folks who have been producing all of our mfsc USA denim goods since 2007 – even considered giving up on the whole project! Too complicated, time-consuming, no profit there. Can’t blame them considering the very limited quantities we would eventually order from them after all that R&D… But, that family (we love them) takes pride in producing solid garments, so they stuck to the challenge.

Side note, it’s actually the second time the Campus MD is part of our Sportsman Catalog! Production just didn’t materialized the first time MF® HQ announced it. We chose to get it right, rather than to get it right now. Now that’s slow fashion.

So, with no further ado, there it is! The 2023 Campus MD looks goods, fits as intended, construction is clean in and out, and has the Joe Greene paw of approval.

This first fabric version of the MF® Campus features one of our staple denim twill, the mighty 16 Oz. selvedge Midnight Denim milled by our friends Sugar Cane in Japan. Fading potential hardly gets better than that.

And the Mustang is a rental while the old rust bucket gets overdue maintenance repair. My first time driving a muscle car, and loving it!

The MF® CAMPUS Blouse Midnight Denim is designed in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Shell:
16 Oz. “Midnight” denim, dark indigo warp & black weft twill, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
Pocketing/gussets/welt:
NOS double indigo twill
Trims:
Black tea-core leather trims (pocket stops/side straps).

PATTERN:
* The long awaited-for woven fabric interpretation of our classic veg-tan leather Campus jacket!
* An original pattern inspired by 1930’s sportswear ‘Cossack’ type unlined leather jackets, with all necessary construction/pattern edits.
* Arm/cuff construction borrowed from our Ranch Blouse pattern.
* Trim 1930’s silhouette.
* One-piece back.
* Fully unlined, clean flat-felled seam construction.
* Slash pockets with leather arrowhead pocket stops.
* Subtle contrast NOS double indigo denim side gussets/pocketing & pocket welt.
* Side gussets featuring concealed double indigo denim selvedge ID.
* Adjustable side straps pattern inspired by our Drover Blouse.
* Keyhole button holes.
* Corrozo ‘Cat Eyes’ wood buttons (aka ivory nut)
* Mister Freedom® original ‘The Sportsman’ rayon woven label.
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.
* Joe Greene-approved.

SIZING:
The Campus Blouse Midnight edition comes UN-WASHED, and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
•Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
•Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.
•Wear briefly while still damp to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

My leather Campus jacket size is 38. I wear a 36 in this fabric Midnight denim edition, after cold-soak/line dry.
I’m about 5’7 , 145 lbs.
Please check actual post-soak measurements on our chart to dial in what works for your specific body specs/preferred silhouette.

Disclaimer: Using alternative methods for the initial shrink (such as soaking in hot water/full machine wash/heat dryer etc) will result in different sizing measurements, and is not recommended.
Do NOT boil this denim jacket, as it has leather trims.

CARE:
Wash when necessary, as other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the jacket inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, and the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023