Mister Freedom® SCUBA TRUNKS, mfsc 2021-22 FROGSVILLE

 

 

MF® SCUBA Trunks, 2×1 “Army” denim

 

 

 

MF® SCUBA Trunks, “Tiger Stripes” camo twill

MF® SCUBA Trunks, P42 “Frogskin” camo HBT

 

 

MF® SCUBA Trunks, OD/Khaki HBT

 

Mister Freedom® SCUBA TRUNKS
Army Denim, Tiger Stripes, Frogskin, OD HBT
mfsc 2021-22 FROGSVILLE

This here is the one garment that inspired and fired-up our entire mfsc Frogsville concept in 2021!
We had felt for a while that the iconic US military “TRUNKS, SWIMMERS” (aka “UDT shorts”) were too good of an historical piece of gear to not be revisited by heritage fashion. So we took the dive.

As the swimwear of choice of the Naval Special Warfare combat skin diver since WW2, the unique silhouette/cut (short length, high waist, double D-ring adjustable strap) has long been associated with the badassery of the Naked Warriors, UDT Frogmen and US Navy SEALs.

The characteristic style spread to other branches and MOS (Military Occupational Specialty), and was adopted by rescue swimmer schools – AIRRs (Navy Aviation Rescue Swimmers), SAR, MCCSSS (Marine Corps Water Survival School) – at times worn as PT uniform in USMC Recon Units, as daily uniform (matched with a green skivvy aboard a ship on deployment during Desert Storm source), even as General Purpose trunks.

The style was adapted from 1940’s civilian athletic/sport trunks, see vintage satin 1930s-50s belted basketball/boxing shorts. The utilitarian pattern of the trunks evolved very little though the years. The original regulation model, part of the frogman’s sea bag, were issued in khaki carded cotton chino twill, and this is how “UDT shorts” are still commonly known today.

However, vintage specimen suggest that several distinctive models and patterns were produced for the military, some more or less obscure. Trunks cut from a wide variety of fabrics also exist, showing in-the-field creativity. Those non-reg versions were usually rigger-made or tailor-made, using recycled uniforms, surplus shelter halves/ponchos, or locally-milled fabrics.
Popular in South East Asia during the Vietnam War were camo versions, flashing all kinds of disruptive patterns, a plethora of tiger stripes, Beogam, Mitchell, ERDL, etc. In-country made embroidered trunks featuring custom “moral patches”, in the non-PC “Party Suit” tradition, are coveted items for collectors today.

For our Mister Freedom® interpretation, the SCUBA Trunks, we combined details and cuts from several military-issued swim shorts from our archives, the oldest being a 1943 US Navy contract pair (NXsX-35162) issued to a “NASH, R.D”, and the most unusual one a 1940s-50s private purchase pair labelled “Frank Bros. Military Uniform and Civilian Clothing, San Antonio, TX” featuring an interesting underwear “diaper” back pattern. We applied the usual MF® twist, blended all the vintage references into a contemporary wearable garment, and, yes, steered clear of the Frank Bros style.
With updated pattern/fit/fabrics, our swim trunks are not replicas, yet respectful of the DNA of vintage military originals.

The waist strap allows for a ½ to 1 inch cinch. Many period photos of SEALs in the 1970s show the trunks being worn with the top waist button undone, belt un-cinched, waistband rolled down. This practice may show a tendency at the time to prefer a lower rise than the old 1940s high-waisted cut, amongst other concerns.

Our friend John T, of @Mosquito_Boat IG fame, a salty USMC veteran and knowledgeable preserver of military History, confirmed the practice during his time serving as a proud US Marine in the 1990s-00s, with anecdotes I won’t relate here.

Personally, the SCUBA Trunks have rapidly become my go-to PT beachwear, as hinted by the 38,779 photos on my IG feed, cosplaying as a half-naked weekend warrior peddling wares.

The MF® SCUBA TRUNKS are a re-imagined classic designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRICS:
The MF® SCUBA Trunks are available in four distinct fabric options, all milled to vintage Mil-Specs in Japan:
a) 10 Oz. “Army” 2×1 selvedge denim, 100% cotton (same fabric as our Denim Raiders Fatigues)

b) BR (Buzz Rickson’s) Gold “Tiger Stripes” camo printed all-cotton twill, 1960s-inspired TSP pattern (same fabric as our Tiger Advisor Jacket). Inside waistband cut from contrast signal orange NOS cotton twill.

c) OD/Khaki combo HBT (Herringbone Twill), 100% cotton (same fabric as our HBT Raiders Fatigues)

d) BR (Buzz Rickson’s) P42 “frogskin” double-sided camo pattern, all-cotton HBT, reversible, constructed jungle (green) side out, also wearable with beach (beige) side out (same fabric as our Map Shirt)

SPECS:
* An original MFSC pattern, inspired by vintage military Swimmers Trunks, UDT shorts, revisited in the US military tradition of in-country local-made custom garments.
* Old school high rise and short length profile.
* Adjustable waist strap with double D-ring buckle.
* Single square rear pocket.
* Button fly, classic USN-style “fouled anchor” CPO plastic buttons.
* Chainstitch seams construction.
* Tonal stitching (with “rainbow” stitch accent on the inside for the Tiger Stripes & OD HBT model, in old USN “Liberty” fashion.)
* Original mfsc Frogsville woven rayon label.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® SCUBA Trunks are true-to-size after a cold rinse/machine spin dry/line dry.
Although the four fabric options have varying shrinkage specifics, all four models will fit similarly after the initial rinse/dry.
We recommend the following simple initial process.

  • Cold soak for about 30 mn in tub or machine, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry (spinning cycle) if using a washing machine.
  • Line dry.

The D-ring waist strap allows for a one inch ~ ½ inch cinch. I wear a W32 in all models, and can get away with a W31 in the “Army” denim version. I’m about 5’7 / 145-150 lbs.
Wear underwear.

CARE:
Low maintenance. Machine wash when needed. Cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2022

Mister Freedom® “Sportsman Chinos”, NOS cotton-linen slate grey denim twill, Sportsman Catalog SS2021, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Sportsman Chinos, New Old Stock cotton-linen slate grey denim twill.
SS2021 mfsc Sportsman Catalog
Made in USA

We are releasing this season’s Sportsman Chinos as a matching companion to the slate grey Continental Sportcoat and Continental Vest. The fabric is the exact same fancy blend of 60% cotton and 40% linen 8 Oz. denim twill, same NOS batch.

A Continental three-piece suit in slate grey can now be put together from our mfsc Sportsman Catalog of vintage-inspired made-in-USA menswear!

The NOS pocketing/facing may differ slightly for each of those three pieces, but consider this as a stylistic nod to eclectic miss-match linings of period tailor-made garments, when fabric availability was limited and all yardage was considered precious. We like this no-waste approach.
Please note that the slight color variation of the slate grey jacket/pants set in the photos above reflect the fact that my Sportcoat is from 2016 and was washed a few times, and the 2021 Chinos have merely been rinsed. This light-colored denim fabric actually has very nice patina potential.

Our Sportsman Chinos and Continental Trousers feature similar design details, but differ fit-wise. While the top block is comparable on both models, the Sportsman Chinos are cut with a more generous 40s/50s-style leg, and the Continental Trousers have a slimmer leg profile. The choice is a matter of one’s personal style preferences and body type.

The Sportsman Chinos are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original MFSC pattern, inspired by vintage 1940’s-50’s cotton twill work pants and classic mens trousers tailoring.
FABRIC:
New Old Stock, 8 Oz. slate grey denim twill, blend of 60% cotton and 40% linen, probable Italian mill origin.
Pocket bags: Fancy NOS Dobby stripe, 100% cotton.

DETAILS:
* Relaxed vintage silhouette and fit.
* Button fly, brown corozo wood buttons.
* Flat-felled side seams.
* Welt-type rear pockets.
* Original combo belt loops, wide & narrow.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, French vintage NOS metal slide buckle.
* New Old Stock fancy Dobby stripe pocket bags, white/grey stripes.
* Watch pocket.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread, flat felled seams construction.
* MF® Sportsman signature green inside chainstitch.
* “Action Crotch” gusset.
* MF® “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on waist band, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The SPORTSMAN CHINOS are sold RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size following the usual protocol:
• Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
• Washing machine spin dry.
• Line dry. (No heat dryer)

These trousers are true-to-size, with a ‘forgiving’ waist (aka vanity size), adjustable via the rear cinch. Go for your usual size in mfsc pants, but consider that the full leg and higher rise will provide an old school vintage work pants silhouette.
I opted for a W30 in these (at 5.7’’ / approx. 150 lbs, I navigate between W30 and W32 in mfsc pants/jeans), as I wanted more of a 60s Continental Trousers silhouette than a 40s/50s workwear chinos fit.
With a generous inseam, the overlocked leg opening is left open to your cuffing preference. I opted for a simple 1.25 inch hem, DIY with a regular single needle machine.

CARE:
When needed, machine wash on DELICATE, pants inside-out, cold water with minimal environmentally-friendly detergent and line dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle, as you wouldn’t with any piece of menswear suiting.
Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® Sportsman Shirt, NOS “Island” plaid edition, mfsc SS2021, made in USA.

“Sportsman Shirt”, NOS “Island” Woven Plaid Twill.
SS2021 mfsc Sportsman catalog
Made in USA

We introduced the MF® Sportsman Shirt pattern sometime in 2013, and have since released it in a wide range of new original or vintage NOS fabrics.
The simple style is our spin on classic 1930s-1950s work shirts, with the usual early workwear details such as chin strap and side gussets, and the less-commun shoulder yoke dart construction.

Having recently scored some limited NOS yardage of a very nice “Island” plaid milled in Japan, we decided it would be a great match for our Sportsman Shirt pattern.

The fabric is a very light weight and breezy 100% cotton twill, loose weave, featuring a classic plaid pattern blending warm earth tones and a palette of attractive blues. This fine fancy fabric is ideal for warm weather and makes this SS2021 edition of our Sportsman Shirt an elegant casual shirt rather than a rugged work shirt.

The Sportsman Shirt is designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Original MFSC pattern, inspired by classic 1930s-50s workwear shirting.
FABRIC:
New Old Stock woven plaid twill, 100% cotton, light weight, loose weave, soft & breezy. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Relaxed silhouette and fit.
* Original inverted box-pleat double chest pockets.
* Slim chin strap.
* Corozo wood buttons, amber color.
* White cotton poplin button facing strip.
* Double front & back expansion pleats on shoulder yoke, for ease of movement.
* One piece cuff gussets.
* 100% cotton thread, high stitch count, tonal.
* Flat felled seams, with inside green chain-stitch MF® signature.
* Side gussets.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label.
* Limited production.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:

The SPORTSMAN Shirt in NOS “Island” plaid twill comes unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this protocol before wear:

  • Machine rinse, delicate settings, cold water, machine spin dry.
  • Line dry. (No heat dryer)

I opted for a Medium, my usual size in mfsc shirting (5’7 ~150 lbs), for a relaxed fit. We recommend getting your usual size in MF® shirts. The yoke darting feature (expansion pleats) of the Sportsman Shirt adds room to the shoulder area. 

CARE:
This garment should be handled with proper care to avoid damage, as the loose weave of this specific woven plaid twill may be subject to snagging.
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle or boil this garment. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® SWABBIES Cut-Offs, Navy Blue HBT, mfsc SS2021 “FROGSVILLE”. Made in Japan.

 

CL chopped Swabbies Cut-Offs.

Mister Freedom® SWABBIES CUT-OFFS, 100% cotton navy blue HBT.
SS2021 mfsc “FROGSVILLE”.
Made in Japan.

The Mister Freedom® SWABBIES were initially released sometime in 2020 as full-legged bell-bottom denim trousers.

The inspiration had come from a rare pair of 1940’s-50’s private-purchase naval dungarees from the “Portlite Uniform” maker. If these conformed to the general silhouette and specs of traditional US Navy-issued denim dungarees, they featured really fancy tailoring and intricate pattern work for a pair of work trousers. The apparently-inconspicuous two front pockets are actually a very clever combination of two types of pocket patterns, slash and patch, a construction tour-de-force on a wrap leg that only makes sense when studying the inside of the pants. Those original MF® SWABBIES featured authentic 1940’s-style navy bells and a traditional high waist.

The SWABBIES CUT-OFFS are a cropped version of the same work pants pattern, bye-bye bells. A common practice in tropical Theater of Operations in the old days, salty Navy personnel would chop-off their faded dungarees and turn them into swim shorts or off-duty bermudas. Another common practice was to undo the top button, and wear the shorts with the waistband rolled-down, as was often the case with UDT Scuba Trunks.

UDT-5 (circa 1943)
Photo licensed from NAVY SEAL Museum.

We hemmed the inseam at about 6 inches, for a mid-thigh length. Cropping higher is a few DIY snips away for those inclined. Note that when left open (un-hemmed), the edge will fray and the fabric will roll, so, easy on the scissors!

We are releasing the Swabbies Cut-Offs in a crisp 100% cotton navy blue HBT, matching fabric to the Frogman Jacket.

The mfsc SWABBIES CUT-OFFS are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Sturdy and crisp 100% cotton HBT (herringbone twill), vintage mil-specs, navy blue color, sulfur-dyed. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern inspired by US Navy 1940’s-50’s private-purchase denim bell bottom trousers aka dungarees.
* Hemmed at mid-thigh, can be cropped to one’s preferred length.
* Wrap leg (no outseam.)
* Black 1940s-style laurel leaf starburst metal donut waist & fly buttons.
* Front pockets combining complex patch-type and slash-type pattern due to the challenge of the wrap leg. No open seams.
* Rear patch pockets cut using horizontal warp.
* Flat lock chainstitch construction.
* Black tonal all-cotton stitching.
* Bar-tacked stress points.
* Woven rayon mfsc “FROGSVILLE” label on inside waistband.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING:
The SWABBIES CUT-OFFS come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

I had opted for a W31 in the Denim Swabbies, for a fitted top block, comfortable thighs and period bell-bottoms. I went with a W30 in the HBT Cut-Offs version.

The waist feels a bit tight after the cold soak, but stretches slightly with a bit of wear, although not as much as the denim model. Note that these are high-waisted shorts, and one might consider the old practice of undoing the top button and wearing the shorts with the waistband rolled-down to tone down the high rise.

CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning the shorts inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

DISCLAIMER: This sulfur-dyed HBT fabric has an intentional low colorfastness and will ‘age’ and look ‘worn-in’ rapidly with normal wear/machine wash routine.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2021

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE & CALIFORNIAN Lot.674-2xi, 12.4 Oz. Double Indigo Denim edition, mfsc SS2021, made in USA.