 
Mister Freedom® SWABBIES dungarees, 10 Oz. “Snow” denim edition.
mfsc SS2020 “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”, SURPLUS catalog.
Made in Japan.
It’s been “All Hands on Deck” lately. For us at the MF® HQ, but more-importantly nation-wide, as anyone who has access to electricity and a few brain cells must have noticed, unlike this fine group of our Country’s learning elite…
So here are the SWABBIES, the final installment of our “WATERFRONT SURPLUS” nautical capsule collection.
The term swabbie is military lingo for a low-rank bluejacket, referring to the sailor’s chore of mopping (swabbing) the deck, barefoot in the old days. This derogatory expression is typical of the healthy rivalry in different branches of the United States Armed Forces. US Marines might call sailors swabbies. A sailor who’d rather be referred to as squid, might call an Infantryman jungle bunny, or a Marine crayon eater. Submariners are bubble heads… All in good humor. This insiders’ exchange quotes some other colorful examples.
The inspiration behind the Mister Freedom® SWABBIES came from a pair of rare 1940’s-50’s private-purchase naval dungarees from the “Portlite Uniform” maker. If these conformed to the general silhouette and specs of traditional US Navy-issued denim dungarees, they featured really fancy tailoring and intricate pattern work for a pair of work trousers, which we liked. The apparently-inconspicuous two front pockets are actually a very clever combination of two types of pocket patterns, slash and patch, a construction tour-de-force on a wrap leg that only make sense when studying the inside of the pants.
Fabric yield on that vintage specimen was definitely optimized by using the fabric selvedge on as many parts of the pants as possible, folded waist band, front pockets, watch pocket, and rear pockets. The rear pockets feature an horizontal warp, as the patch pockets of the denim Longshoreman do, a detail that will only start revealing itself with wear and patina.
 
The most striking feature of our SWABBIES however is the authentic navy bells. We didn’t spare fabric on this one, and went full-on 1940’s-style authentic bells. Unlike 1970’s hippy bell bottoms, traditional naval bells flare from the inseam, not outseam, as the trousers’ profile photo attests. This is due to the fact that traditional navy dungarees feature a wrap leg (one folded single piece of fabric per leg, no out seam), a pattern style we have often toyed with, from our 2007 7161 Utility Trousers to the more recent Topsiders multiple iterations.
The story behind the origin of naval flares seems to be lost to History, with many legends floating around. Bell bottom trousers might have been issued to US Navy sailors as early as 1813, with a denim model introduced in 1901. The wide leg opening allegedly allowed roll-ups above the knee, keeping the pants dry while swabbing, as regulations from Secretary of the Navy Crowninshield in 1817 suggest. (source)
The myth about tying up the legs and using the trousers as a life preserver for a man overboard is probably moonshine on the water.
We kept the fit of our SWABBIES authentic, and refused to compromise with modern fashion adjustments, ‘cause we craycray like that. These feature a high rise, fit top block, and flaring that starts at the knee, gradually reaching a whooping 11.5 inches at leg opening! Not everyone will pull that off, but we just love that unmistakable vintage naval silhouette so much that we had to add bells to the MF® catalog at some point. And since 2020 is nothing short of an unusual year so far, there it is.
The SWABBIES’ fabric, a dark and handsome 2×1 selvedge denim with a “snowy” neppy texture, matches that of the Dockyard and Longshoreman. For those into the total look, the set will soon be modeled for your viewing pleasure, as soon as things get a bit under control in the World. For less of a “Sand Pebbles” extra statement, pairing the SWABBIES with a solid Skivvy, a classic chambray shirt or pull-over Secoya might be the ticket. Vintage naval photos abound and could be a style inspiration for some. The fits are also a bit all over the place on period photos, as can be seen on the shots below from albums in our archives.
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1920’s
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Captioned: “USS Prometheus 1920”
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Captioned “San Diego 1929”
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1930’s
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1940’s
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Coast Guard Air Station, South Frisco 1943
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Captioned “Deck Gang 1943”
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USN sailors, 1943
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Papy the sailor man, “strong to the finich, ’cause he eats him spinich.”
The fabric evo on the SWABBIES should be quite interesting with normal wear and occasional laundering, not unlike that of vintage US dungarees.
The mfsc SWABBIES are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co., from denim fabric milled in Japan.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
10 Oz. dark indigo blue 2×1 denim, “snowy” neppy texture, white with yellow line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern inspired by US Navy 1940’s-50’s private-purchase denim bell bottom trousers aka dungarees.
* Authentic traditional USN dungarees flared leg pattern, inseam bell shape with straight outseam.
* Wrap leg (no outseam.)
* Intricate use of the denim selvedge in construction (folded waist band, front pockets, watch pocket, and rear pockets.)
* Black 1940s-style laurel leaf starburst metal donut waist & fly buttons.
* Front pockets combining complex patch-type and slash-type pattern due to the challenge of the wrap leg. No open seams.
* Rear patch pockets cut using horizontal warp.
* Flat lock chainstitch construction.
* Black tonal all-cotton stitching.
* Bar-tacked stress points.
* Woven rayon mfsc “SURPLUS” label on inside waistband.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING:
The SWABBIES come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
I opted for a W32 in the Swabbies, for a fitted top block, comfortable thighs and period bell-bottoms. The waist might feel a bit tight after the cold soak, but with a bit of wear, the “snow” denim stretches back slightly to the tagged waist. After minimal wear, the fabric will naturally stretch at the stress points, like the waist, as opposed to, say, the ankles.
I opted for a no cuff silhouette, until swabbing duty. To facilitate sizing for wide range of frames, we cut limited odd sizes too (29, 31, 33).
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
CARE:
Wash when necessary. We recommend turning garment inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Available RAW/unwashed.
Sizes (W is for Waist, measured in inches.)
W 28
W 29
W 30
W 31
W 32
W 33
W 34
W 36
W 38
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
 
Mister Freedom® Ranch Blouse and Californian Lot.674, “ICE-BLU” selvedge denim edition.
mfsc SS2020 “YUCATÁN” collection.
Made in USA.
On October 18, 1956, Rock’n’Roll pioneer Gene Vincent and his wild band of musical geniuses known as “The Blue Caps” recorded the savage “Red Blue Jeans and a Pony Tail”…
Colored denim made its way to the forefront of fashion for casual wear suppliers and westernwear brands in the 1950’s. By the next decade, the catalogs of the “Big Three” (aka Lee®, Levi’s®, Wrangler®) were all spiced-up with a range of colorful models, alongside the traditional indigo blue utilitarian dungaree offerings.
Lee® had ventured into indigo denim alternatives as early as 1958 with their iconic “Westweave” cotton (aka satin) Westerner 100-J, made available in off-white, light blue, brown and black. This was bringing a city feel to ranch wear, with dress-up options for denimed-out cowboys.
Wrangler Blue Bell® had the 22MJZ jacket (Men Jacket Zipper) and matching 11MWZ jeans (Men Western Zipper) in a variety of colors: off-white, light blue, red, black…
Levi’s also had its share of colored fabric options in trucker jackets with matching bottoms, like the popular pique models (941 series), satin models (940 series), and twill models (840 series). All these groovy alternatives were to prove very popular with the youth and in-crowd, becoming favorites on campus, movie sets and city streets alike.
Our Mister Freedom® interpretation of vintage colored denims draws from all the above classics. Sometime in 2019, we reached-out to our friends and textile experts at Toyo Enterprise and finally developed a long-desired light indigo blue selvedge denim. This was quite an unusual request for Sugar Cane’s network of fabric mills, as “heritage” makers tended to mostly focus on ounceage challenges and dark indigoes. One thankfully took-on the task and delivered.
Our 12 Oz. “ICE-BLU” denim twill features a sky blue indigo warp and ecru weft, solid white selvedge, with an attractive overall appearance somewhat reminiscent of our 2012 Hacendado “Baja Denim” fabric.
The two candidates to make the first cut with that original “ICE-BLU” denim are the staple MF® Ranch Blouse and Californian jeans. We opted for the Lot.674 pattern, for its early 1960’s vibe and slim and lean cut, balanced with the Ranch Blouse’s earlier western-wear influences.
Both are of course available for purchase separately. For the brave, the “ICE-BLU” denim combo will be quite the stylish statement, guaranteed to turn more heads than a freeway pile-up. For the Texas Tuxedo-shy, mixing-up either top or bottom with traditional darker denim might be the ticket. Either way, these two pieces are quite versatile for anyone with a sense of style anchored in old classics.
We opted for ivory white contrast stitching, a choice also inspired by 1950’s vintage colored denim specimen.
We are quite fond of this brand new fabric around here, so please forgive the upcoming avalanche of IG posts! Note that we are offering the Lot.764 in select odd sizes too (29, 31, 33), to better accommodate your target fit and desired silhouette. The “ICE-BLU” Ranch Blouse also comes in a rare size 32 (double extra small), for smaller ladies into the boys’ jacket look.
The “ICE-BLU” Ranch Blouse and Californian LOT.674 (available separately) are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from denim fabric milled in Japan.
SPECS
Fabric:
12 Oz. “ICE-BLU” Denim, light indigo blue warp x ecru weft, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Pocketing/facing: sturdy NOS white/navy gingham, 100% cotton.
“ICE-BLU” RANCH BLOUSE:
DETAILS:
* MF® “Uncle Sam” type collar pattern.
* ‘Vintage’ boxy but trim silhouette.
* Pleated front with original MF® arrowhead dart stitching.
* Original MF® “M” stitching on chest pockets.
* Single pocket flap.
* Selvedge front panel fold.
* NOS white/navy gingham fabric facing for collar and pocket flap.
* “Silver” cast MF® branded tack buttons.
* Buckle back, concealed selvedge strap, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked hardware.
* Subtly contrasting ivory white stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Original mfsc printed “Buckaroo” cloth label.
* Made in USA
SIZING FIT:
The “ICE-BLU” Ranch Blouse comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
I wear my usual Ranch Blouse size in this “ICE-BLU” edition, a cold-soaked 38. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
CHART
Available Raw/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
32 XX-small
34 X-small
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
“ICE-BLU” CALIFORNIAN Lot.674:
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern.
* Button fly.
* Original MF® branded “silver” metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS white/navy gingham fabric pocket bags.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* MF® branded natural veg-tan leather patch on rear pocket.
* Subtly contrasting ivory white stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement bartack stitching.
* Unlined rear pockets.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper “ICE-BLU” pocket flasher (sky blue).
* Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT:
The “ICE-BLU” Californian LOT.674 blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 will shrink to approximately 32 inches x 34 inches after a soak/dry process.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.
The “ICE BLUE” Californian Lot.674 are true-to-size, with the usual “vanity sizing” standard in the industry.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. (Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow the belly button, not bellow the hips.)
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I opted for a W31 in the Lot.674 “ICE BLUE”, which tends to be my size of choice for the MF® style of 1960’s slim jeans patterns, such as our popular Speedways, Malibu’s, Lot.74 and Lot.674 models.
On cuffing: When playing around with period “flood length” à-la McQueen, rather than rolled cuffs or modern unsightly stacking, the Lot.674 has a definite sixties vibe silhouette.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
 
CARE:
Wash when necessary. We recommend turning garment inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Available RAW/unwashed.
Sizes (W is for Waist, measured in inches.)
W 29
W 30
W 31
W 32
W 33
W 34
W 36
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
Mister Freedom® “DUDE RANCHER” western snap shirt, vat-dyed selvedge chambray & shadow-plaid printed poplin.
SS2020 mfsc “DUDE RANCH” collection & Surplus catalog.
Made in Japan.
The Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA introduced during Fall 2013 and released in a variety of denim-related fabrics was our first traditional “western snap” shirt. The “DUDE RANCHER” is our second spin on the style. This all-original pattern was inspired by a selection of vintage “cowboy” shirts, and initially issued in high-count cotton poplin during Spring 2019, available in solid black and white, with a limited edition “rodeo” batch custom chainstitch-embroidered.
The DUDE RANCHER features the expected western-style front and back curved yokes, but we opted for arcuate panels subtle-enough to keep the shirt not too “costumey”. The playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.
Our DUDE RANCHER features painted metal snaps, reminiscent of 50’s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell shirts, previously featured on the MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.
For this SS2020 release, we decided to go “Hee Haw meets Oklahoma!”, with a vibrant orange/green/yellow printed plaid poplin option. This period-looking check pattern was lifted verbatim from a vintage 1920s-30s garment from the MF® archives, also printed on high-count poplin. The “shadowed” plaid pattern has a definitive Art Deco vibe, reminiscent of bygone airbrush shading techniques. See the works of Dorothy and Otis Shepard, the power-couple geniuses behind Wringley’s chewing gum wrapper and countless of other 1930s billboards, paper ads and packaging.
This flashy number in Technicolor® is in sharp contrast with the vat-dyed selvedge chambray fabric option, kinda taking after Junior Bonner rather than 1950s Grand Ole Opry. If “traditional” chambray cloth is a plain weave of a colored warp (indigo for a blue chambray) and white weft, our vat-dyed chambray features light indigo-dyed yarn in both warp and weft, giving the fabric the appearance of a solid colored textile. Closer inspection will reveal the much more interesting and attractive grainy texture of classic chambrays. This characteristic definitely sets vat-dyed fabrics apart from regular piece-dyed fabrics (dyed after milling) and their ‘flat’, solid uniform color.
Vat-dyed chambrays were a popular novelty in 1940s-50s workwear, with fabric producers like PEPPERELL (Boston, Massachusetts) boasting of their colorfast, sunfast or “Will Not Fade” qualities.
Our choice of contrast stitching for the chambray model is a nod to the classic 1970s light-weight Levi’s chambrays familiar to vintage clothing aficionados. My Dad was a big fan, as I remember that vivid orange tab on the chest pocket, magically enhancing the faded blue fabric.
We combined orange and yellow thread for the caballo chainstitch, a subtle dual color contrast touch. The DUDE RANCHER features high-count stitching, contributing to the shirt’s vintage look, without having to resort to unnecessary processing, chemical washes or sandblasting. In these days of fast fashion, very few factories are still willing or qualified to operate the machines that allow such high-count stitching and narrow seams, so we are grateful for our friends at Toyo Enterprises for keeping this quality production level available. Such attention to details also delays production drastically, as each shirt takes about 3 times longer to complete. It goes without saying that this comes at a price, which the reader is very well aware of!
The DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC:
Two options:
a) Printed “shadow” plaid, high-count 100% cotton poplin, partial bleed-though, made in Japan.
b) Vat-dyed chambray, 100% cotton, light indigo blue solid color, solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional western-style shirts.
* Traditional western-wear arcuate front and back yokes.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (the paint will chip with age.)
* Tonal stitching for plaid model, dual contrast orange/yellow stitching for chambray version.
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Fancy diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton hi-count stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “Surplus” woven label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/WASHING:
Both versions of the DUDE RANCHER come RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Hang until fully dry.
I opted for a MEDIUM in both fabric options (my usual size in mfsc shirting), for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
CHART
CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similar-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and could damage the garment.
Available RAW (un-rinsed)
Sizes
X-Small
Small
Medium
Large
X-Large
XX-Large
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
 
Mister Freedom® mfsc RANCH KERCHIEF, selvedge cotton.
SS2020 mfsc “DUDE RANCH” collection, made in Japan.
We dug-out some vintage Old West-related silk scarves from the Mister Freedom® archives for inspiration, and put together this original “RANCH KERCHIEF”, in full 1950s-60s “dude ranch” tenderfoot fashion. Like the singing cowboy Rex Allen once confessed sometime around 1958, in regards to his TV fancy wardrobe: “I recon I wear seersucker suits. Sears made ‘em and a sucker bought ‘em.” Cowboy wisdom.
Cinema and music have reinvented the American West since the 1930s (or earlier), often depicting an “on the range” reality that might not have been everyone’s experience of it.
To keep things light, our bandana sticks to that romanticized version of cowpoke life, a bit more “Oklahoma!” than “Dead Wood”. Its novelty artwork does not incorporate any “cool” Native American symbols or references, a minefield these days. Save for the obscur “MF” and “SC” branding iron repeats, there is no maker mention either, but that’s just because we were so busy picking colors that we actually forgot to include our brand name!
The print is made on an all cotton plain weave selvedge fabric base, using water-based ink. A bleed-thru effect guarantees that both sides display the graphic with equal sharpness and vibrance.
Like most traditional 1950s-1960s fashion or promotional bandanas, our RANCH KERCHIEF features three sides machine-hemmed and one side using the fabric selvedge, an old sign of fabric yield maximizing. Modern mass-produced generic bandanas tend to be hemmed on all four sides (fabrics milled on wide looms with frayed edges), sometimes unattractively serged (overlocked), and, ultimate deal-breaker, cut from polycotton for some. Besides the few attractive vintage replicas/interpretations available today from discerning labels, selvedge bandanas are not the norm.
We opted for a classic average square size of 23 x 23 inches, so that our RANCH KERCHIEF can be used as neckwear, do-rag, dust mask, hankie, wall display, sling, pocket square, napkin, field tourniquet, pet scarf, furoshiki etc…
This SS2020 release comes in four colorways we are calling red, navy, gold and green to simplify.
We devised the original kraft paper packaging as to not include a PVC plastic window, playing around with the concept of a vintage souvenir brought home from a guest ranch vacation.
The mfsc RANCH KERCHIEF is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by SugarCane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Fine 100% cotton, traditional selvedge “bandana” lightweight fabric, milled and printed in Japan.
Four classic colorways: red, navy, gold or green.
DETAILS:
* Vintage-inspired 1950s-60s dude ranch cowboy/western artwork.
* Fabric selvedge featured on one side, with other three edges finished with narrow hem.
* Water-based ink for soft-hand print.
* Approximate size 23 x 23 inches ( about 58 x 58 cm.)
* Packaged in an original vintage-like kraft paper envelope, a fun present for your significant cowboy, cowgirl, cowperson, or pet.
* Made in Japan.
CARE:
These bandanas come raw/unwashed. We recommend a full wash before using, to remove the starched finish and soften-up the fabric.
The RANCH KERCHIEF is low maintenance and should be laundered when needed.
Machine wash on normal cycle, cold or warm water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Line dry of tumble dry.
Available Raw/Unwashed.
One size, four color options.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, model A: 7.7 Oz. indigo linen-cotton HBT.
LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, model B: 10 Oz. “Snow” denim.
Mister Freedom® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, indigo linen-cotton HBT & 10 Oz. “Snow” denim edition.
mfsc SS2020 “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”, SURPLUS catalog.
Made in Japan.
We took a stroll down memory lane and rigged-up a small capsule collection for Spring 2020, with references harking back to our earliest Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co fictional scenario, the 2006 “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor”. This concise “Waterfront Surplus” nautical grouping is inspired by 1930’s US Navy and French Marine Nationale utility uniforms, local-made and custom-tailored dungarees, with the usual liberties we like to take with History. This straight-forward and classic set is made of the DOCKYARD Jacket, LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, and SWABBIES Dungarees.
Following the recent release of the DOCKYARD Jacket in indigo linen-cotton HBT and “snow” denim, here is Volume Two, the LONGSHOREMAN Shirt, available in the same two fabric options.
The overall design of this pull-over “jumper” shirt is lifted from a rare 1940s vintage naval denim work shirt produced by the “Gus Kroesen Uniform” label. Established in 1907, and with branches in Seattle, San Francisco and Honolulu, the Gus Kroesen stores have supplied generations of men of the sea with outstanding custom uniforms.
According to a 1924 article of the San Pedro News Pilot, “Gus Kroesen, naval and civilian tailor and haberdasher, with a very attractive and well-stocked store at 335 Front street, San Pedro, served for fourteen years as a ship’s tailor in the U.S. Navy.” (quote credit California Digital Newspaper Collection, Center for Bibliographic Studies and Research, University of California, Riverside.)
Today, surviving vintage specimen of Gus Kroesen naval dungarees are quite rare and sought-after by collectors.
The Mister Freedom® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt features most of the design specifics of the vintage original, the jumper style pattern (aka pop-over), half zipper front closure placket, and three utilitarian patch pockets.
One of the striking details of the Gus Kroesen shirt was the unusual use of the fabric grain in construction. Classic shirt bodies tend to be cut using straight grain (displaying the warp threads vertically), but our vintage jumper featured vertical cross grain. I have seen a few of these private-purchase naval dungaree jumpers from various makers, and this is typical of that style. The purpose was to maximize yield and minimize fabric waste, using the selvedge in the bottom hem, cuff hems, and pocket fold. As a side effect, the combination of grain directions will result in interesting seam puckering, peculiar garment drape, and potential attractive “striped” patina over time.
If our indigo HBT fabric is non-selvedge, both LONGSHOREMAN options are cut using the same grain cutting method, promising some interesting fading evolution in both fabrics.
To add a little twist à la MF®, we decided to add a classic period detail in the form of a narrow chin strap, and a practical concealed chest pocket.
The LONGSHOREMAN Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
Model A: 7.7 Oz. dark indigo-dyed Herringbone Twill (HBT) fabric, blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton. Milled in Japan.
Model B: 10 Oz. dark indigo blue 2×1 denim, “snowy” neppy texture, white with yellow line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Inspired by 1930s-40s custom-made private purchase naval dungarees and shipyard crews work clothing.
* Pull-over style “jumper” pattern.
* Half zipper closure placket, 30s/40s-style bell-shaped pull “silver” Talon zipper, 100% cotton tape. (use caution when fastening, as these vintage-style zippers are more delicate than modern versions with polyester tape. Lubricate the metal teeth with natural beeswax occasionally.)
* Fabric cut using vertical cross grain for body and sleeves, displaying the warp horizontally.
* Selvedge displayed in bottom hem, cuff hems, and pocket fold (denim version only.)
* Three front utilitarian patch pockets.
* Concealed chest pocket, stripe ticking fabric.
* Clean chainstitch construction, no open seams.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc woven rayon “SURPLUS” label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT:
The following applies to both fabric options. The MF® LONGSHOREMAN Shirt comes raw/unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
- Spin dry and line dry.
- Hang until fully dry.
Due to the 100% cotton stitching and specific grain cutting method, attractive puckering will show at the seams after the soak, giving the garment more of a vintage feel. The denim version will be stiffer after the initial soak due to the re-activated starch, but the stiffness is temporary and will subside rapidly with wear.
I opted for a comfortable 38 (MEDIUM) in both fabric options, both with a similar fit but different drape. The silhouette is quite slim yet comfortable enough not to make pulling the shirt on/off an excruciating task. According to body types, the cut will accommodate layering with a skivvy or classic Nixon chambray.
We recommend going with your usual mfsc shirt size.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
CHART
Available RAW/unwashed.
CARE:
Launder when needed. For both options, we recommend turning the LONGSHOREMAN Shirt inside out, fully zipped-up, to avoid marbling of the fabric.
Machine wash on gentle cycle, cold water, minimum eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Patina will develop according to activities and frequency of wear.
Available Raw/unwashed ONLY.
Sizes
34 X-small (indigo HBT only)
36 Small
38 Medium
40 Large
42 X-Large
44 XX-Large
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020
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