Mister Freedom® MFSC spring 2012 (Part 6): “Prairie Shirt” Denim & Calico

Let them see you and not the suit

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Prairie Shirt, cotton denim & Calico.

Here is the latest addition to our Men of the Frontier spring 2012 collection: The PRAIRIE SHIRT, in two different fabric options, selvedge denim and calico printed broadcloth.
Inspired by 1930’s American shirting and mixing several elements of vintage samples from our archives, here is another versatile shirt for discerning gents. This is our first new “white back denim” shirt since our sought after Liberty Issue CPO from a few seasons back, that will ring a bell with the ol’ timers.
The madder calico version taps into our yen for early American printed shirting fabrics. Our little homemade Calico scrapbook was again pretty handy…
For the shirt pattern, we incorporated detailing from early western shirts and gentleman wear, again trying to stay clear from clichés and reproductions.
Now we here just make the clothes, it’s up to you to make ‘em look good. Like the Man said: “Let them see you, and not the suit”

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1930’s American shirting. The fit is similar to our “Apache” Chemise Calico, a bit roomier because of the back expansion gusset and shearing.
FABRIC: The Prairie shirt comes in two very different fabric options, both milled in Japan for MFSC.
a) Light weight selvedge dark indigo denim, 7.5 Oz.
b) All cotton broadcloth selvedge fabric, 4.5 Oz., printed with a tiny calico turn of the Century inspired pattern, madder red on natural. The reverse of the fabric appears ‘white’ because of the limited ‘bleed through’ effect of the specific intricate printing process.
DETAILS:
* Collar band facing with indigo dyed popeline.
* Front closure with metal Diamond type DOT snaps.
* Collar, cuffs and pocket closures with original 1920’s New Old Stock ox bone buttons.
* Original MFSC chest flap single pocket
* European type selvedge side gussets.
* Rounded back tail and front overlapping panels.
* Original MFSC woven label on lower tucked-in front panel. The rayon label is stamped with the size.
* Original middle back panel expansion gusset.
* White cotton popeline button placket facing.
* Back panel and cuff shearing.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching, high count.
* Flat felled seam construction.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the PRAIRIE SHIRT comes in an old school cardboard box with original MF® artwork. This sturdy box is not the collapsible cheapo kind, and can be used for storage of small items. Please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
The shirt comes UNWASHED, the material is raw, so shrinkage is expected.
The measurements in the sizing chart below are done before and after a cold soak and line dry, resulting in very minimal shrinkage.

Prairie Shirt Sizing Chart

Calico: The calico option can be washed on delicate and machine dried and is pretty much “low maintenance”.
Denim: For those of you who value the appearance, goodness and wholesome appeal of RAW denim (ie. denim NOT chemically processed by a highly polluting distressing industrial wash factory, as most denim Industry companies offer to the un-savvy consumer. But you didn’t hear this from me…), we recommend a home cold soak and line dry. You won’t get full shrinkage at first, but wearing the shirt this way in the early stage (with the starch still in the fabric) will overtime guarantee a fade and patina similar to an old WW2 USN barrack bag…
As always, we do not recommend HOT soaking, as this alters the dark denim color.

DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the dark indigo denim, bleeding is expected. You will get some (washable) color rubbing when the shirt is paired with a white undershirt. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash. Please use minimal mild AND environment friendly detergent.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Limited edition.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes:
13 ½
(X-Small)
14 ½
(Small)
15 ½ (Medium)
16 ½ (Large)
17 ½ (X-Large)
18 ½ (XX-Large)
Retail: $ 359.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship almost everywhere internationally.
Gracias for your support, Amigos.

Mister Freedom® MFSC spring 2012 (Part 5): “Britches Chaparral”

MFSC Britches Chaparral Waist2

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Britches Chaparral, Brown and Indigo Cotton/linen canvas.

Movin’ on, friends…

Here is our fifth installment of our “Men of the Frontier” journey, the cotton-linen canvas  “BRITCHES CHAPARRAL”.
Again, borrowing from both the American West and the Old World, we have combined European influenced fabrics with 30’s-40’s slacks and “chino” American style trousers.
The fabric options are the same than our “Chaparral Blouse”: two Cotton-Linen plain weave selvedge canvases, Indigo dyed and “cachou” brown.

A quite ‘simple’ trousers pattern for those britches, but loaded with small details, and made with fabrics that will wear very nicely and develop interesting character and patina.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1930’s-1940’s work type trousers and cotton slacks. Mid/high rise.
FABRIC: The Chaparral Britches come in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches, both options are inspired by rare turn of the century French workwear textiles from our archives.
a) MFSC Brown Canvas: A blend of 80% linen and 20% cotton selvedge canvas, 12.5 Oz., in a “cachou“/ brown Duck color.
b) MFSC Indigo Canvas: A blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton selvedge canvas, 8 Oz., Indigo dyed.
DETAILS:
* Selvedge outer leg seam.
* Slash type front pockets, with inner selvedge angled stitched fold.
* Gun metal color donut button fly with double button waist.
* Two slash rear pockets, with arrowhead type button flaps.
* Watch/coin pocket
* Trousers type pocket bag construction and lining, with 100% cotton tight weave sateen fabric, beige color.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching
* Flat felled seam seat construction.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the BRITCHES CHAPARRAL come in an old school cardboard box with original MF® artwork. This sturdy box is not the collapsible cheapo kind, and can be used for storage of small items. Please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
The britches come UNWASHED, the material is raw, so shrinkage is expected. With an initial cold soak and line dry, both fabrics will shrink differently, but will reach TAGGED size down the line. Note that cotton-linen textiles shrink and stretch yoyo style with wear and wash.
An additional 1.5 inch can be let out from the bottom cuff if needed (single stitch machine.)
Note on fit: You’ll notice a different fit and silhouette with the two options on the photos. I am around a waist 31 usually, and had to go with a tagged waist 32 with both the Indigo and Brown britches. My brown pair has been cold washed (inside out to avoid marbling), line dried. I also tapered the leg by taking in the outer leg seam by about 1.5cm. My Indigo pair was just cold rinsed, line dried, no alteration, and still has some shrinkage due. Because I do not want to mess with the rich and deep Indigo color, I’ll wear them this way for a while. I don’t mind a bit looser fit for the summer with those. Rolled up with espadrilles should do the trick for our California weather…

See chart below for approximate measurements of raw vs. cold soaked/line dried. (we didn’t ‘pull’ on the fabric for measurements, and because the Indigo cotton/linen wrinkles more, there are slight differences). Due to very limited stock we couldn’t rinse/test all sizes/options.

MFSC Britches Chaparral sizing Chart

DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the indigo dye, bleeding is expected with the INDIGO canvas option BRITCHES CHAPARRAL. You WILL get some color rubbing if you wear a light color shirt tucked in. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash. Please use minimal mild AND environment friendly detergent.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Limited edition.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Tagged Sizes (= will shrink to sizes):
W28 × L33
W30 × L33
W32 × L33
W34
× L33
W36 × L34
W38 × L34
RETAIL: $549.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship ALMOST everywhere internationally. We thank you for your support.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 (Part 4): “GUNSLINGER Denim Pantaloons”

MFSC Gunslinger Pantaloons Box

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Gunslinger Denim Pantaloons, Indigo twill & Desert twill.

Here is our fourth installment of the “Men of the Frontier” journey, the denim “GUNSLINGER PANTALOONS”.
Borrowing from both the American West and the Old World, we have mixed European gentlemen’ trousers detailing with early workwear construction and fabrics.
The inspiration for those jeans came in part from this 1904 photo. This saloon scene showcases several interesting trousers styles worn by ranch hands at the turn of the Century. One of the cowboys (second from right) seems to be wearing denim, according to the cuffs showing the contrasting reverse of the fabric. A closer zoom reveals an obscure European trousers pattern, not a ‘classic’ five pocket type pants.
So we went with our own original trousers pattern, staying away from the more obvious Lee/Levi’s/Wrangler type work jeans back yoke piecing/pocketing. (As once mentioned in front of a Denim Industry audience, the genius iconic “501” must be the most actively milked cow in the jeans making racket… not a crowd pleasing statement.)

We had two different denim twill exclusively woven in Japan for this collection, both inspired by vintage swatches from our archives. One indigo denim with indigo back, and one white back unbleached natural denim. Both were milled in limited quantities, not the easiest nor cheapest stage of the making of those jeans.
Those jeans are also Made in Califonia, US of A 😉

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by both the New and the Old World. European type trousers tailoring mixed with work wear construction.
FABRIC: The Gunslinger Pantaloons come in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches.
a) MFSC Indigo denim twill: Dark Indigo warp x dark Indigo weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, 12.4 Oz., Solid white selvedge ID. A very rich dark indigo color, with purple hues, in and out.
b) MFSC Desert denim twill: Natural warp x White weft, 100% selvedge Cotton, 12.8 Oz., Solid white selvedge ID. This is not your typical off white twill. This fabric has a lot of texture, character, ring and slub.

DETAILS:
* Higher type rise, early work pants type silhouette.
* Selvedge outer seam.
* 100% cotton natural color sail cloth pocket bags and seat lining.
* Gun metal color donut button fly. Double button waist band closure and inner waist tab.
* Cinch back strap and selvedge gusset. NOS metal sharp prong buckle (we have sadly run out of our stock of these, so this is one of the last time we use them for production)
* Five wide belt loops, unbalanced positioning.
* Original pattern single back pocket. The pocket ‘bell shape’ and specific selvedge construction allows storage for larger items.
* Flat felled inseam and seat construction.
* Copper riveted back pocket and back strap.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the GUNSLINGER’S come in an old school cardboard box with original MF artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
Both denim options come RAW (un-washed). Both fabrics are un-sanforized and will shrink down to the same fit after several wash/soak/dry cycles.
The Desert denim (natural) shrinks ‘faster’ than the Indigo denim. I recommend doing an original cold soak and hung dry. See how it fits and take it from there. With rinsing/wearing, the fabrics will shrink/stretch back and forth for a while and settle eventually.
Because of the back gusset, the waist can expand 1 ¾ inch when the back strap is not cinched, quite useful around Turkey Day. The measurements on the chart below are done with the gusset opened, with more shrinkage to come.
I am about a true 31 waist, and wear a waist 30 in those. I have only done an original cold soak/no agitation/line dry with both pair, so there is some more shrinkage to come. The indigo pair looks a bit wider than the natural pair, but I’ll wait until a wash is really needed.
Do not just wash your indigo gunslinger’s in hope of fading them faster, wear them instead.

Click on chart below for measurements of the INDIGO Gunslinger’s (the measurements are similar for the Desert version):

MFSC Indigo Gunslinger Pantaloons sizing chart

DISCLAIMER
: Because of the nature of the double indigo dyed yarn, bleeding is expected with the INDIGO denim twill, on BOTH sides of the fabric. You WILL get some color rubbing on other garments and body, legs and Tony Montana type sofas alike. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash, and overtime, your gunslinger’s will get an amazing patina inside AND out.

Garment designed and manufactured in California, USA by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co (MFSC). Limited Edition

Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes:
Waist 28 x L36
Waist 30 x L36
Waist 32 x L36
Waist 34 x L36
Waist 36 x L36
Waist 38 x L36
Retail $379.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com and from our brick & mortar store. Mail sales@misterfreedom.com with questions not answered above. We ship internationally.

Much obliged for your support.

Recommended reading and viewing:
* “The West“, a 1996 Stephen Ives/Ken Burns documentary
* “Jeans of the Old West” by Michael Harris
* “Saloons, Bars and Cigar Stores” by Roger E Kinslingbury
* DenimBro denim workwear research interactive forum

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 (Part 3): The “RANGE Vest”

MFSC Range Vest

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Canvas RANGE VEST

Moving right along with the “Men of the Frontier” Spring 2012 collection updates, here is our third installment, the canvas “RANGE VEST”.

I like vests. Whether part of a 3 piece suit or as a mismatch piece, you soon appreciate the extra pockets and extra layer. Vests are very practical additions to daily outfits.
Since I am not a big fan of hunting vest (they look too ‘hunting’ to me) I wanted a mix of outdoor ruggedness and Gentleman’s tailor-made garb; so no rear ‘game pocket’ here. By mixing outdoor and indoor, open range and saloon, combining canvas fabric/metal donut buttons hardware/wrap pockets with traditional satin belted back panel and a slender cut, we made a waistcoat that takes from both worlds.

Inspired by the pattern of a vintage 1930’s French outdoor vest found a while back, we made the Range Vest in the same fabric options than our Chaparral Blouse: Cotton-linen canvas in Brown and Indigo dyed.

By the way, the silly dude ranch fit pix (I’m wearing a size 38), as always, are not to be taken too seriously; they are just here for the kick. A DenimBro compañero has mentioned that we picked the wrong cactus (thanks Mr. Randal. No, not Josh, Mark) Of course, it is was no news to you that the Euphorbia Ammak in the photos background is of Western Saudi Arabia origin, nowhere close to the American Frontier 😉
But I’m rambling, here are the…

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by both the open range and early saloon imagery. Cowhand meets Faro dealer.
FABRIC: The Range Vest comes in two very different fabric options (not two colors of the same fabric.)
Exclusively milled for us in Japan, in limited batches, both options are inspired by rare turn of the century French workwear textiles from our archives.
a) MFSC Brown Canvas: A blend of 80% linen and 20% cotton selvedge canvas, 12.5 Oz., in a “cachou“/ brown Duck color.
b) MFSC Indigo Canvas: A blend of 60% linen and 40% cotton selvedge canvas, 8 Oz., Indigo dyed.

DETAILS:
* Original multiple patch pocketing, six options to store your silver dollars.
* slender silhouette.
* 100% cotton sateen back panel with cinching belt (beige for the brown canvas and black for the Indigo canvas.)
* Gun metal color donut button front and pocket closures.
* Original rayon woven MFSC labeling on inside bottom of the button placket.
* No open seams or visible overlock.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the RANGE VEST comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING:
Both canvas options come RAW (un-washed). Both fabrics are un-sanforized and will shrink down to the same fit after several wash/soak/dry cycles. The Indigo canvas shrinks ‘faster’ than the Duck canvas. I recommend doing an original cold soak and hung dry. See how it fits and take it from there. With rinsing/wearing, the fabrics will shrink/stretch back and forth for a while and settle eventually.
DISCLAIMER: Because of the nature of the indigo dye, bleeding is expected with the INDIGO canvas option Range Vest. You WILL get some color rubbing if you wear a light color shirt under it, or light color jacket over it. The bleeding stops overtime after normal wear/wash.

Sizing chart with raw and rinsed measurements coming soon.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Limited edition.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes:
36
(small)
38 (medium)
40 (large)
42 (X-large)
44 (XX-large)
Retail: $ 429.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.comto get yours while they last. We ship internationally. Much obliged for your support, Compañeros 😉

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 (Part 2): The “Calico TRADE SHIRT”

MFSC Calico Trade Shirts wall

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MFSC Spring 2012 “Men of the Frontier“: Calico Trade Shirt

You have a second? Let’s look into the amazing A.C. Wroman photograph annotated “Volz’s store. Oraibi, 1901” posted last week. The store featured was located in the center of the largest Moki village of that reservation.
Mr. Volz, trader and guide, had also opened one about thirty miles away from the railway (and the UPS dude thinks he has it tough now).
As seen in that scene, a large variety of fancy calico printed fabric was available by the yard in trading posts and dry goods stores. Even in the most remote location, locals (or, more accurately in this photograph, “relocated” individuals) could come and pick a few yards of bold color cotton calico to make the family clothes. The young woman with her son is considering a large flower printed cloth, under the shopkeepers’ enigmatic stares.
Bartering jewelry, blankets, pottery or baskets for those ready-made fabrics was an alternative to relying on the traditional century old tasks of hand spinning yarns and hand weaving to clothe one-self. The traders would in turn sell the Natives’ crafts to travelers or collectors.

According to period photographs of the early 1900’s, it appears that calico printed ‘homemade’ shirts were a well spread non-traditional garment for many Native Indians. Since the 1800’s those fabrics had been imported from Europe and widely used and reused by the pioneers and homesteaders (see “Calico Chronicles”, Betty J. Mills, 1985.)
One can speculate that adopting some “white man’s” textiles was a small step towards reluctant integration amongst some Indian Natives… This other Wroman photograph, annotated “Hopi Towns, men of Sichimovi, 1901”, shows Hopi men wearing a wide variety of homemade shirts made from assorted imported shirting fabrics, calico and stripes.
All this rambling, of course, stays my subjective interpretation of what really happened a century ago.

On a much lighter note, these are the background premises of our MFSC “Calico Trade Shirt” this spring. From our collected archives of many dozens of early American calico swatches and garments, we have selected two that we freely called “Apache” and “Pueblo”.
Our shirting fabric base is an Indigo dyed 4.5 Oz fine all cotton broadcloth and we used a discharge print technique. These fabrics were exclusively milled and printed in Japan for this MFSC collection. The shirts are a European pull-over type, collar less with chin strap extension. We used rare and authentic 1920’s New Old Stock ox bone buttons we happily found, in limited quantities, buttons of Portuguese origin.

I am not a big fan of untucked shirts, as a personal preference, but those look also good that way, notably for our lady friends. I am, however, a huge fan of early indigo calico fabrics and finding an actual 1900’s surviving men’s shirt shares it’s odds with the discovery of a hen’s tooth, in a hay stack.
So, in or out, I’m now happy wearing mine.

Some folks might think that a “polka dot” shirt is not “manly” enough in 2012, but it sure was in 1912. And, in years to come, I wouldn’t be surprised seeing calico shirts as popular amongst discerning gents as blue work chambrays have become. I’m just sayin’
And now, the…

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, inspired by 1900′s~30′s pull-over shirting, with its origins in Europe before becoming a popular Old West garb feature.
FABRIC: 100% Cotton broadcloth, 4.5 Oz., dark Indigo dyed and discharge printed. Milled, dyed and printed in Japan. Two options: “Apache” calico print (tiny sun looking prints) and “pueblo” calico print (reminiscent of pueblos architecture)
This is NOT a cheap navy blue print on a white fabric. By the time a Trade Shirt reaches us, many people have been involved in its making, none of them residing in China:
* Our natural broadcloth was dipped many times in an indigo vat to reach the desired shade of dark indigo.
* A special paste wasapplied to the dyed fabric with a screen of the Apache or pueblo print.
* The discharge process is finalized by way of steaming, the paste ‘bleaches out’ the fabric. The face of the fabric looks different than the inside because of the inconsistency of the ‘bleed through’ effect.
* Then the shirts go to the long and tedious cut/sew production period…
* After some airborne time, we get them delivered here, caught red handed killing time playing Nintendo (I actually mispelled this last word originaly, Nitendo…)

DETAILS:
* Early homesteader, reminiscent of early non-traditional Indian Native style/silhouette
* Stand collar with chin strap
* Back panel and cuffs shearing.
* Real 1920’s ox bone NOS buttons.
* Button placket facing with contrast white all cotton muslin fabric.
* Original rayon woven MFSC labeling on bottom of the button placket, reminiscent of early European Henley type undershirt label placement.
* Flat felled chain-stitch seams and single needle machine construction.
* Side gussets, European construction.
* 100% cotton ivory color high count stitching.
PACKAGING: For the USA, the blouse comes in an old school cardboard box with original artwork. This sturdy box can be used for storage of small items, please re-use.
SHRINKAGE/SIZING: The trade shirt comes RAW, unwashed, and will shrink very minimally with cold wash and hang dry (the indigo dying process has technically taken care of the shrinkage)
I recommend minimal detergent (such as Woolite for dark or equivalent), in order to keep the rich indigo color longer.

See chart below for raw and rinsed/line dry measurements

MFSC Calico Trade Shirt Sizing Chart

DISCLAIMER: As with ALL indigo dyed garments, color bleeding and rubbing is expected and unavoidable. Arms and body or white undershirts and skivvies WILL turn blue (no Smurf panic here, it all washes off easily). Wearing a white tuxedo jacket with the trade shirt WOULD leave the jacket lining and underarms with indigo color rubbing. But you know better than to wear a white tux with it anyhow.
The color rubbing will minimize after several washing/wearing cycles, until it eventually stops.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and crafted in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Limited edition.

Available RAW/Unwashed
Sizes:
14 ½
(Small)
15 ½ (Medium)
16 ½ (Large)
17 ½ (X-Large)
18 ½ (XX-Large)
Retail: $ 359.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. Much obliged for your support, pardners 😉