Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “Les Apaches”(Part. 6): Chemise Fantaisie

MFSC Les Apaches” Spring 2011 Collection: Introducing the CHEMISE FANTAISIE (ie. fancy shirt)

Just in, some fancy shirting for the Apache in you 😉
Inspired by French gent garb from 1900’s to 1930’s, the chemise fantaisie will put some fancy threads on your back. The fabrics were painstakingly developped in Japan from vintage textiles swatches and turn of the century shirting samples. The pattern is based on early silhouettes and vintage prototypes, with the usual MF® creative spin and early American influence.
Detachable collar type (aka. stand collar), fancy shearing, european tailoring single needle construction, NOS glass buttons… the works.
Nice as a fancy addition to your favorite blue jeans, under a gilet de ville, or… as a better way to paint the town than the usual chambrays.
Along with other things we make, this MFSC Chemise Fantaisie “is what it is” (ie. not life style changing…) and it’s up to you to make it look good. If you are reading this, you should not have any problems doing so…

SPECS
PATTERN: An all original MFSC pattern, inspired by early European fancy shirting. Because of the back yoke shearing, the cut is a bit wider than our MFSC 645 Utility Chambrays.
FABRIC: Three options, milled in limited batch. Unwashed and un-sanforized.
* BLEU CALICO: Blue colour base, all cotton broadcloth 3.5 Oz., tightly woven brocade jacquard with subtle calico print (discharge and navy colour).
* BLANC CALICO: White colour base, all cotton broadcloth 3.5 Oz., tightly woven brocade jacquard with subtle calico print (rust colour).
* ROUGE GARANCE: Natural/beige colour base, all cotton broadcloth 3.5 Oz., printed with a madder red (aka “Turkey Red”) calico print.
BUTTONS: Authentic French 1900′s-1930′s New Old Stock glass buttons, also referred to as boutons Briare, because of their regional origin. Those buttons are RARE (you can find small quantities of them here and there, but finding enough for a whole collection was no easy task), but we even put an extra one stitched to the inside care label… Because of the very involved process of manufacturing this type of glass buttons, production has stopped in the 1940’s in France.
COLLAR: Detachable type, held by fancy metal “collar studs”. Original collar studs were usually made of bone, ivory or porcelaine for off the shelf shirting. One would get a set of fancy studs of their liking at the Haberdashery store, along with a tie clip and cuff links… You can shmEbay them.
Very often, the removable collars were lost and this type of stand collar shirts are often seen worn without them on old photographs (the charpentiers below are not Apaches, nor fancy dandies, but some of them DID lose their collars…)

 

French quarrymen (Photo © Collection Roger-Viollet)

DETAILS:
* Button placket extended tab, to button to your breeches waist button, so the shirt stays tucked in.
* Sheared back yoke and wrist cuffs.
* White cotton popeline button placket contrast facing.
* Passe Cravate loop in back shoulder yoke, to secure tie or scarf.
* Very high stitch count all cotton stitching.
* Extended tucked in buttoned “belly flap”.
* French style side gussets.
* Single needle tailoring construction, no chain stitch.
SIZING:
Again, labeled in French: 35 (XS), 37 (S), 39 (M), 41 (L), 45 (XL)
Click on chart below for RAW and after rinse and hang dry measurements (t.

Limited Edition, designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.

Available RAW (unwashed)
A) Chemise Fantaisie BLEU CALICO
Available Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
Retail $399.95
B) Chemise Fantaisie BLANC CALICO
Available Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL
Retail $399.95
B) Chemise Fantaisie ROUGE GARANCE
Available Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL

Call (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you all dearly for your support.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “Les Apaches”(Part. 5): Le Pantalon Apache

MFSC Les Apaches” Spring 2011 Collection: Introducing ‘ze’ Pantalon Apache!

I know. We’re late. But the deliveries from our Japanese partners have been quite delayed this season, for obvious reasons. We don’t really mind the delay, since our MFSC collections do not follow trends, seasons or reason.
So here they are, ’em anticipated stripey breeches!

Inspired by turn of the century to 1930′s French tailor-made gent garb, our Pantalon Apache come in three different fabric options. Woven in Japan exclusively for MFSC, the fabrics were developed from vintage swatches and samples of 100 year old textiles from our archives. They are not replicas, as we changed some yarn colour combinations, tones and texture, giving them our trademark twist. The fabrics are 100% cotton, making them drape and feel the way we wanted. They were a real endeavour to mill and had some people pulling their hair in the process…
The trousers can be matched with our Gilet de Ville, cut from the same cloth. Throw a Veste Ouvrier on top to dress them down, or a vintage leather coat or blazer… Also great with a simple white Marcel (French slang for tank-top undershirt, aka “wife-beater”, no offense Mesdemoiselles), for the BBQ months. Add your own vintage buttons to hook-up your suspenders. Dress shoes, motorcycle boots or clunky old work shoes… Work it out pally! Nice break from the daily denim accoutrement.
Check out our friend “Mr. French CanCan“, aka Vilbo Jr. from Toulouse, interresting 5 part retrospective on the Parisian Apache culture. Great read and photos for inspiration.

SPECS:
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by early French tailor-made suiting. 1930’s silhouette with higher-rise and fuller legs.
FABRIC: Milled in Japan, in small limited batches, exclusive to MFSC. The three options are NOT an alternate colour way of the same woven fabric, rather three totally differently woven fabrics as follow:
* GREY COVERT STRIPE: 10 Oz., all cotton, double cloth, 6 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
* INDIGO STRIPE BLUE: 8 Oz., all cotton, 7 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
* COVERT STRIPE BROWN: 8 Oz., all cotton, 5 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
WAIST & POCKET LINING: All cotton MFSC stripe ticking and original MFSC  Métisse 50% cotton/50% Linen plain weave, indigo dyed and black pigment coated.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s).
DETAILS:
*Side adjustement slide buckle straps, with original NOS French metal hardware.
* Two back pocket with button dart flaps.
* Concealed waist hook, original NOS French metal hardware.
* “V” belt loops.
* “American” cuffs.
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: All fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer, this gilet de ville, although washable, should be treated with TLC. 
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops. Yo Captain, ain’t ya tired of ze plug???…it’s just that we REALLY love ’em boxes!
SHRINKAGE: All fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer (or shouldn’t, should one get the urge to do so), this pantalon Apache, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
All three fabric have different shrinkage specs, so RAW measurements of a same size will differ slightly from on cloth to another. After rinse and dry all three trousers options will fit the same.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized and labelled in french…
Click on chart below for Raw/Rinsed measurements (we do our best to measure accurately, but although sober, three different people measuring will come up with three different results… so the chart is APPROXIMATE):

Limited Edition, designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist US 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Retail $549.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com  to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like, and not what others do.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “Les Apaches” (Part.4): Pantalon Ouvrier


  MFSC Spring 2011 “Les Apaches“: Pantalon Ouvrier (workman’s trousers)

We are very happy to have the fourth installment of our MFSC spring Apaches collection finaly in ze house!
Inspired but late 1800’s – 1900’s French military bourgerons trousers (often made of HBT natural colour linen) and early French workers garb, our Pantalon Ouvrier falls into the “denim” part of the collection. The trousers are available in two fabric options: Métisse Indigo dyed twill and Indigo Stripe ticking, both inspired by early French workwear textiles, then the Old World equivalent to American denim. 
The silhouette is reminiscent of turn of the century imagery, a slimmer type fit, narrower legs with a higher rise.
You can make them look ‘dressy’ or ouvrier, according to what you pair them with…

SPECS:
PATTERN: An all original MFSC pattern and fit, inspired by early french work pants and military issued chore trousers.
FABRIC: Two options (fabrics loomed in Japan exclusively for MFSC):
A) INDIGO Métisse: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light…
B) INDIGO Rayure (ticking): 8 oz. indigo/white  warp and black weft striped twill, herringbone weave, white selvedge, un-sanforized (respectfully lifted from a late 1800′s swatch of french textile). Fades…
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozonatural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900′s to 1940′s). “MFSC déposé” engraved buttons combination.
SUSPENDERS: The trousers come with matching fabric removable suspenders, inspired by overalls straps.
HARDWARE: NOS original French hook secure waist closure. Buckle back with our NOS sharp prong buckle (guaranteed to blahhh).
BACK GUSSET: Contrast indigo dyed popeline.
POCKETING: Two front slash pockets, one watch pocket, two back slash pockets secured by button ‘dart flap’.
Pocket lining is with contrast fabric (métisse for the ticking body, and ticking with the métisse body… try that for the King’s Speech part.)
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
WASHING: Both fabric option come RAW/unwashed, and will shrink lightly with washing/drying. Your trousers will fade overtime, according to wear. Remember that you do not get good ‘wear marks’ from washing but from wearing.
I recommend an initial quick cold soak, without agitation, to initiate original shrinkage and hang dry.
Then, when needed, cold delicate wash, minimal eco-friendly detergent and hang dry.
DO NOT get a size up and BOIL them when you realize they are not skinny jeans.
MF® does not make skinny jeans…
SIZING & SHRINKAGE: The trousers are labeled and marked in French.
We measured the trousers with the back gusset fully open. A fully close gusset (with maximun back strap cinching) reduces the waist by about 1 and half inch all around. 
Click on chart below to see RAW and RINSED measurements (missing measurements will be updated asap.)

LIMITED EDITION. Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Indigo Métisse (solid): Retail $599.95
Indigo Rayure Ticking
(stripe): Retail $549.95

 

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com  to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. Thank you for your support.

NOTE:
The métisse and ticking pantalons ouvrier featured in the above photos have been WORN on/off for about 2 months, washed cold about 5 times, minimal soap, hang dry. NFS. Production trousers are NOT distressed and are available UNWASHED only.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “Les Apaches” (Part. 3): Gilet de Ville

Gilet_Ville_Group

  MFSC Spring 2011 “Les Apaches“: Gilet de Ville (city waistcoat)

Introducing the third installment of our MFSC spring Apaches collection, now available at the Mister Freedom® store in LA and very select retailers around the world.
Inspired by turn of the century to 1930’s French tailor-made gent garb, our Gilets de Ville come in three different fabric options. Woven in Japan exclusively for MFSC, the fabrics were developed from vintage swatches and samples of 100 year old textiles from our archives. They are not replicas, as we changed some yarn colour combinations, tones and texture, giving them our trademark twist. The fabrics are 100% cotton, making them drape and feel the way we wanted. They were a real endeavour to mill and had some people pulling their hair in the process…
You can go Dandy or pair them with your favorite dungarees, mismatch fabrics… according to the mood and the order of the day. (See previous post for some fit pics.)

SPECS:
PATTERN
: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by early French tailor-made suiting.
FABRIC: Milled in Japan, in small limited batches.
* GREY COVERT STRIPE: 10 Oz., all cotton, double cloth, 6 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
* INDIGO STRIPE BLUE: 8 Oz., all cotton, 7 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
* COVERT STRIPE BROWN: 8 Oz., all cotton, 5 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
LINING: Fully lined with 100% cotton stripe MFSC ticking.
BACK PANEL: Original MFSC  Métisse 50% cotton/50% Linen plain weave, indigo dyed and black pigment coated.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s). Five button front.
DETAILS:
* Limited Edition.
* Four front slash pockets
* Two inside concealed chest flap pockets.
 * Traditional darted back piece, with cinch back belt. Original french NOS metal sharp-prong buckle (DISCLAIMER:  Will scratch car seats, sofas etc…) The buckle is removable and you can switch to one that fits your needs (a “safer” metal buckle, used for the Japanese production, will be found in one of the pockets.)
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle, no overlock nor chainstitch. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: All fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer, this gilet de ville, although washable, should be treated with TLC. 
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized and labelled in french…
92 (small) Chest about 18 1/2” across, after rinse/dry.
97 (medium) Chest about 20” across, after rinse/dry.
102 (large) Chest about 21” across, after rinse/dry.
107 (X-Large) Chest about 22” across, after rinse/dry.

Designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes S, M, L, XL
Retail $439.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or  jordan@misterfreedom.com  to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like.

Watch Johnny Depp making a Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Gilet de Ville (indigo stripe blue version) look good here 😉

Apaches spotted in a Los Angeles alley, near Mister Freedom® store…

Apaches-152

All rite, before you start calling Five O, let’s just say that the boys and I decided to have fun yesterday and Ms. Jordan shot away…
Nothing to alert the medias about, but we decided to share our goofin’ around. Featured in the photos are pieces of our MFSC Les Apaches Spring 2011 collection:

* MFSC Gilet de Ville
* MFSC Chemise Calico
* MF® Bourgeron Biribi
* MFSC Pantalon Ouvrier
* MFSC Pantalon Apache
* MFSC Chemise Fantaisie
* MF® Casquette “Deffe”

We had more fun than what it looks like on those photos.
No humans were harmed in the shooting of this photo session. Maybe just my pride when i realized i have to lose a few pounds. Anyways…
Cheers,

MF®

(If anyone wonders, John, Nico and I do NOT take ourselves seriously.)

Email jordan@misterfreedom.com or john@misterfreedom.com, or call 323-653-2014 for infos. Sorry, Nico NOT available for bachelorette parties…