Mister Freedom® Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit, NOS black-coated crosshatch denim, FW2018, made in USA.

Photo courtesy  Leigh Wiener ©1960

Mister Freedom® Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat & Trousers)
New Old Stock black-coated crosshatch denim (BCD)
mfsc Sportsman catalog, Fall 2018
Made in USA

Time to get rhythm ‘n get the blues, and kick off our Fall 2018 mfsc collection with this first installment, the dark and handsome “JC” two-piece suit!

All made-in-USA, this original trousers and sportcoat set, latest addition to the Mister Freedom® Continental family, is cut from an old MF® favorite, the final precious yardage of New Old Stock black-coated indigo denim (BCD) from our dusty vault.
Previously featured on the MF® Speedways and its Cowboy Jacket sidekick, this special NOS fabric is not the modern waxy black rubber type coating seen on novelty contemporary jeans, but rather an interesting indigo denim twill printed with a soft-hand opaque coat of matte black water-based ink. If the black ink completely covers the indigo blue warp of the denim, the traditional light-colored grayish weft (with somewhat of a greenish sheen here) shows on the reverse of the fabric. The slub of the yarns is visible on the weft threads, giving this specific denim its crosshatch quality.
If the BCD initially looks flat black due to the pigment coating, it will develop its own patina overtime, blending shades of indigo with black and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Undertones of indigo will rapidly appear with normal wear abrasion.

Below photos show a worn/washed pair of BCD Speedways next to the “JC” Continental Trousers in un-worn condition, both cut from the exact same fabric.

The “JC” Two-Piece Suit consists of two of our popular classic patterns, the MF® Continental Sportcoat and Continental Trousers.
The unstructured blazer pattern is already available in an array of fine NOS fabrics, an indigo crosshatch twill, two grey cotton-linen twills, a light indigo “Player” denim, and an elegant tropical “Congo Gabardine” cotton-linen twill.
The Trousers have previously been released in brown Cacao Chambray, indigo Crosshatch Denim Twill, and light indigo “Player” Denim.

Available as individual garments for a mix & match look, the black-coated denim “JC” is of course offered as a Sportcoat/Trousers set, for the Man-in-Black inclined.

The mfsc Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit in Black-Coated Denim (Continental Sportcoat & Trousers) is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
New Old Stock crosshatch pigment-coated denim, soft-hand matte black finish on indigo warp, 100% cotton, 12 Oz. Probable Kurabo (Japan) origin.
Pocketing & half lining/facing:  NOS fancy woven stripe 100% cotton plain weave (ivory white with blue & grey stripes), milled in Europe.

Continental “JC” SPORTCOAT:
* Unstructured silhouette.
* Lightweight and easily folded, perfect traveling companion.
* Sixties-vibe high button front.
* Black corozo wood butons.
* Half shoulder floating lining, 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill.
* Side hip pockets with flaps.
* Pocket openings reinforced on the inside with facing fabric.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching, all clean caballo (chainstitch) flat-felled seam construction, green color “Sportsman” signature chainstitch on the inside. No open edges or overlock.
* Made in USA.

Continental “JC” TROUSERS:
* Elegant late 1950′s early 1960’s type silhouette and fit, straight leg.
* Black corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Flat-felled side seam caballo all around construction.
* Rear welt pockets.
* Trousers-style belt loops.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill pocket bags, waist band .
* NOS indigo twill fly/cinch facing.
* Watch pocket.
* Tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstich MF® signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on rear waistband, concealed when wearing a belt.
* Tailor shop-style unfinished overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT
This explains how we size our garments.
The Continental Sportcoat and trousers come raw/unwashed. We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. The tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. The subtle variation of shrinkage between body fabric/lining fabric/cotton thread will result in puckering and roping, slightly altering the fit and drape.
I personally opted for a Size 38 in the Continental sportcoat  and Waist 32 trousers. These are my usual sizes in the Continental series and most mfsc garments.

Trousers sizing: The Continental Trousers are true to size. If you are a measured waist 32 inches, you are most-likely a stamped W32 in the Continental Trouser. Do not size down on these. Please note that the Continental Trousers pattern might not be a good option for all body types. Proportion-wise, those with Ronaldo-style muscular legs will probably look better in our regular Sportsman Chino models.

Trousers hemming: After the initial soak/hang dry process, we recommend settling down on the final length of the bottom hem after gently wearing the trousers around the house a bit. The cotton fabric tends to naturally bunch/wrinkle and pull the leg up slightly. Letting this specific fabric react to your own body for an hour or so will allow you to decide on a proper classic leg break that works for you. I opted for a classic 1 1/4 fold, and subtle period flood.
Style-wise, we do not recommend bulky denim rolls and over-played BRMC cuffing with these classic slacks.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
(Fit pic: Haus is wearing a size 38 jacket and W32 trousers.)

CARE:
Treat your MF® Continental “JC” black-coated denim garments as you would fancy indigo denim wearables. Hand washing can be a good option for those concerned with specific wear patterns and high-contrast colors fades, otherwise machine wash on DELICATE.
Wash separately to avoid color transfer. Turn garment inside-out to minimize unsightly marbling of the fabric. Cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Full wash cycle and heat dryer are not recommended.

Initially black, the MF® Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit will develop its own attractive patina with normal wear, blending shades of indigo, black, and white, according to activities, frequency of wear and wash cycles. Be patient and just enjoy looking good during the process!

Sportcoat and trousers available separately or as a two-piece suit for substantial saving.

Continental “JC” SPORTCOAT:
Sizes:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Continental “JC” TROUSERS:
Sizes (Leg length about 36’’, left un-cuffed)
28
30
32
34
36
38

Continental “JC” Two-Piece Suit (Sportcoat + Trousers):
Any size combination available, rebate issued at PayPal check out.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2018

Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat NOS “Congo Gabardine”, Sportsman catalog Spring 2018, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat, NOS “Congo Gabardine”.
mfsc Sportsman catalog, Spring 2018
Made in USA

To ease into this new year in style, let’s introduce a new member of the Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat family, the first Spring 2018 addition to our all-made-in-USA Sportsman catalog.

This classic and versatile unstructured blazer pattern is already available in an array of fine NOS fabrics, an indigo crosshatch twill, two grey cotton-linen twills, and a light indigo “Player” denim.  It now gets an elegant tropical twist with the New Old Stock fabric we recently scored, an 8.85 Oz. blend of 86% cotton and 14% linen, an elegant natural white twill with a subtly-contrasting heather oatmeal warp and white weft. The face of this denim-like fabric displays unbleached slubby flecks of natural fibers, while the reverse shows a whiter cotton yarn.
Our (technically inaccurate) choice of term “Congo Gabardine” is a nod to “Congo Cloth”, a now-defunct rayon fabric typical of vintage tropical attire. Off-white suiting fabrics of the the 1920’s-40’s, such as “Congo Cloth”, or the illustrious Palm Beach Cloth (a cotton/mohair blend fabric milled by the Goodall Worsted Company, and cut into classic “Palm Beach” lightweight suits), certainly convey a bygone tropical elegance often eluding contemporary men’s summer fashion.

The Mister Freedom® Continental Sportcoat “Congo” features a half-shoulder ‘floating’ lining cut from yet-another fancy NOS fabric, a white sateen twill with a woven green stripe pattern, probably milled in Italy. Our sportcoat’s classic, sixties-style, four-button closure highlights an attractive set of amber brown corozo buttons, adding somewhat of an ‘earthy’ touch while complimenting the tropical theme.
This off-white summer coat can be paired with jeans or khakis for a casual vibe, dressed-up with waistcoat and slacks, styled with neckties or open collars… or rocked full-on Miami Vice.

 

The Continental Sportcoat is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATERN:
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage cotton work coats and other unstructured blazers, notably a 1950’s French postal uniform jacket.

FABRIC:
New Old Stock ivory-colored twill, 8.85 Oz., blend of 86% cotton and 14% linen, off-white heather warp with slubby oatmeal flecks x white weft, milled origin unknown.
Lining: NOS 100% cotton woven stripe sateen twill, white and green, probable European origin.

DETAILS:
* Unstructured silhouette.
* Lightweight and soft, perfect traveling companion.
* High four-button front closure.
* Amber brown corozo wood butons.
* Half shoulder floating lining, 100% cotton NOS fancy woven stripe twill.
* Form-fitting back, ventless.
* Three patch pockets, with flaps on hip pockets.
* Concealed ‘passport’ chest pocket.
* Pocket openings reinforced on the inside with lining facing.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching, clean caballo flat-felled seam construction, chainstitch on the inside, no open edges or overlock.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
This explains how we size our garments.

The Continental Sportcoat “Congo” comes raw/unwashed. We recommend our usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. The tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. The subtle variation of shrinkage between body fabric/lining fabric/cotton thread will result in puckering and roping, slightly altering the fit and drape.

I personally opted for a Size 38 in the Continental sportcoat “Congo”, consistant with all of its other iterations in various fabrics.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.
Full wash cycle and heat dryer are not recommended.

 

CARE:
Hand wash or machine wash unbuttoned on delicate, cold water with minimal environmentally friendly detergent. Do not use bleach. Line dry.
NOTE: Full washing cycle and heat dryer might result in excessive shrinkage and/or damage, to be experimented at owner’s risk.

Available Raw/unwashed
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Retail $329.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.

Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom® 2018

Mister Freedom® ‘Veste Ménilmontant’, indigo covert herringbone twill, “GYPSY BLUES” mfsc Fall 2017

 

Mister Freedom® Veste Ménilmontant , wool-cotton indigo covert herringbone.
GYPSY BLUES” mfsc FW2017
Made in Japan.

Ménilmontant… mais oui Monsieur!

We’re kick-off the Fall chapter of our “GYPSY BLUES” story to the beat of a 1938 Charles Trenet chanson, given a Jazz Hot treatment in 1949 by a quintet led by virtuoso guitarist Django Reinhardt and violinist Stephane Grappelli.
Dig it!

Our Veste Ménilmontant (veste is jacket in French, and Ménilmontant is a popular neighborhood of Paris) was inspired by a vintage suit jacket, an old beat-up 1920’s-30’s French coat. That original inspirational piece was absolutely striking, with amazing character, classy curves, elegant lines, and worn-out hobo style. Check it out if you visit the old pile o’ rags.
The fabric we chose for our interpretation is a fancy herringbone weave cotton/wool blend, a covert cloth mixing indigo blue, black and slate grey yarns.
Please note that this is quite a period-looking garment, as the Veste Ménilmontant screams Thirties! In part due to the curvy and wide peak lapels, the jazzy belted back accentuating the natural waist, and the overall silhouette. That elegant single-breasted style was typical of Gentlemen’s garb of the time. The four patch pockets with button flaps complete the vintage continental flair of the garment. We played a bit with the lining fabrics to give our coat an Old World meets New World tailor-made touch, mixing French workwear stripe ticking (body lining) with Wabash twill (arm lining).

Style-wise, if a bit concerned about looking like a 1930’s suave crooner, or an extra on Sous Les Toits de Paris, pairing the Veste Ménilmontant with familiar denim favorites should easily dismiss the Jean Sablon vibe. For Heritage Fashion and workwear aficionados, the jacket can also be toned down with a “Dirty Thirties”treatment, i.e. complimented with Great Depression era-inspired outfits.
For menswear and style inspiration, old photos abound. Check out the daily gems featured on Mr. Matt “Warpath” Strickland’s excellent Rivet-Head blog or rockin’ IG account.
For fancy Jazz Manouche-style guitar picks (those featured on the photos are made from vintage NOS casein), and other Hot Jazz guitar-related goodies, look-up Mr. Thomas Davy.

The Ménilmontant Jacket is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Herringbone weave blend of cotton/wool, a covert cloth mixing indigo blue, black and slate grey yarns. Milled in Japan.
Body Lining: 100% cotton indigo woven stripe ticking.
Arm Lining: 100% indigo Sugar Cane Co Wabash twill.

DETAILS:
* Inspired by 1920’s-1930’s haberdashery and French vintage Gentlemen’s suiting.
* Period silhouette with elegant lines, cinched natural waist and broad chest and shoulders.
* 1930’s type belted-back.
* Single-breasted featuring curvy wide peak lapels.
* Four patch pockets with buttoned flaps.
* Corozzo wood buttons, amber color.
* Fully lined (combination of indigo stripe ticking and indigo Wabash twill).
* Two inside concealed chest pockets.
* MF® mfsc “GYPSY BLUES” woven rayon label.

SIZING/FIT:
The Ménilmontant Jacket comes raw/unwashed. If so inclined, get some light puckering and fabric roping with a 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry. This garment runs true to size following this process.
I wear a fitted size 38 (Medium), my usual size in mfsc jackets and coats.

Refer to chart for raw/cold-soaked & line-dry measurements.

CARE:
We recommend hand washing (or machine-wash on delicate, if you use a high-end washing machine), cold water, eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not boil this garment, nor set washing-machine to normal/heavy agitation.

Available RAW/unwashed.
36 (Small)
38 (Medium)
40 (Large)
42 (X-Large)
44 (XX-Large)
Retail $549.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017

The Continental Sportcoat, New Old Stock cotton linen twill, Sportsman Spring 2016, made in USA.

Continental-Triumph6

Another-Mission

Darn… another day, another mission for OSS7161

Continental-Sportcoat-Charcoal-1

Continental-Sportcoat-Charcoal-2

Continental-Sportcoat-Charcoal-6

Sportcoat-Mercedes

OSS7161, so much BS, so little time.

Continental-Sportcoats-1

Continental-Sportcoat-Slate-1

Continental-Sportcoat-Slate-4

Continental-Sportcoats-3

The “Continental Sportcoat”
Charcoal and Slate grey NOS denim twill
Sportsman Collection Spring 2016

As previously mentioned, we decided to break the Internet this Spring.
Simple. We just added a new three-piece type concept to our Sportsman catalog. It consists of three new garment patterns with a suiting vibe that we exotically called the Mister Freedom® Continental Trousers, Continental Vest, and Continental Sportcoat.
Our intention was less an urge to have Savile Row shopkeepers and bespoke tailors lose sleep over an American invasion than a desire to add an elegant classic touch to our Mister Freedom® Made in USA catalog. So, expect a bit of unpretentious suiting for the Worldly Gentleman á la MF® in the Sportsman collection for the coming seasons…

According to how lucky we are digging up New Old Stock loot, each season will welcome a new member to our Continental family. With the finished garments, the idea will be to mismatch pieces according to one’s personal taste and need for a not-so-formal yet sophisticated wardrobe. The MF® Continental concept should make us insanely rich, and you incredibly handsome, successful, and influential.

Sometime in 2015, we scored a pretty incredible lot of three different slubby cotton-linen crosshatch twills, milled in Italy. Fallen-off Guido’s truck and acquired in exchange for several kidneys from the Mister Freedom® crew, not much is known about these fabric rolls, besides yarn content, weight and Country of Origin. All three would technically qualify as denim twill, typically featuring a dark-colored warp and a natural-colored weft, but the 30 to 40% linen fiber adds an elegant and crispy touch to the grouping. The three colors we will be releasing the Continental series in this season are charcoal grey, slate grey and indigo blue. There will not be full matching sets available for each color, both intentionally and due to limited yardage.

Continental-Swatches

Following the smashing release of the Continental series’ first installment earlier this year, the irresistible Continental Trousers in NOS crosshatch denim, here is its handsome sidekick, the Continental Sportcoat.
Our Sportcoat is an ‘unstructured blazer’, a non-rigid coat without shoulder padding, the Int’l Secret Agent’s best friend while traveling the World busting villains. Roll it in a bundle, stuff it into your Halliburton briefcase, hang it by the shower, close the door… the steam will press it for you. You can then waltz right out of the posada draped like a local, and go get Fantômas

Did you say Fantômas?

The pattern of our latest Sportsman garment is derived from a French 1950’s cotton khaki twill work coat, pulled out of an old trunk belonging to a French postal worker (Postes, Telégraphes et Téléphones, aka PTT), a vintage grouping found during a recent trip to Europe. We just figured we’d turn our facteur  into an undercover OSS agent…

We adapted the vintage design to make it a bit more glamorous than Jour de Fêtes, but not going full Thomas Crown either (remember, the Continental is made downtown LA…). We aimed for ‘sporty playboy’ over 9-to-5 clerk, OSS117 over 1957 PTT, Eurospy over salaryman. Yet, we wanted a casual sportswear feel. The result is a jacket somewhat sexier than the vintage originally-conceived functional postman uniform coat, and less high-maintenance than a fancy suit coat.

Although laden with subtle details, our Continental Sportcoat stays pretty discreet and non-pretentious. The casual feel is heightened by the fact that the jacket is washable, always a plus for the on-the-go Int’l Man of Action. Be aware that its cotton-linen fabric will torque and shrink, the stitching will pucker… But we quite like the whole wrinkled “Salaire De La Peur” meets “1000 Dollars au Soleil” atmosphere. This is an acquired taste of course, and some might prefer a freshly pressed ‘clean’ look instead. Do your thing.

The high-button front also adds a somewhat 60’s spy movie vibe, thus this post’s silly photo skit, featuring Mr. Cristian Dascalu’s own villain-busting machine, a mighty 1970 280SE Mercedes.

Overall, our Continental Sportcoat is quite versatile and will adapt to the wearer’s own personal style, according to what it will be paired with. It can be dressed-up with Continental Trousers and vest, dressed-down with blue jeans or chinos, layered with a denim jacket, or not purchased…
The fit is quite relaxed, with darts to cinch the waist and a kind of drop-shoulder pattern for top volume. Because of the rather simple way the sleeves are set (bias tape binding method), a professional tailor should be able to adjust the shoulder area if needed, according to one’s build. Let an actual tailor mess with it, as this is a seemingly easy job, but it does require custom tailoring skills. Setting sleeves is tricky.

The detail-oriented will notice a streamline caballo construction on the inside, with no overlock edges nor open seams, something we at Mister Freedom® find important.
The Continental Sportcoat features a floating half lining, made of natural NOS woven stripe cotton fabric. Along with a concealed chest pocket, patches of lining fabric are used to reinforce the pocket openings, a detail borrowed from the original utilitarian uniform vintage jacket.

We are introducing two twill fabric options for the Spring 2016 issue of the Continental Sportcoat:
A) Charcoal Grey twill: New Old Stock, 60% cotton – 40% linen, 8 Oz. denim twill with a probable Italian origin.
B) Slate Grey twill: New Old Stock, 60% cotton – 40% linen, 8 Oz. denim twill, also with a probable Italian origin.

The Continental Sportcoat is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

PATTERNS:
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by cotton work coats and other unstructured blazers, notably a 1950’s French postal uniform jacket.

FABRICS:
A) Charcoal Grey twill
: New Old Stock, 60% cotton – 40% linen, 8 Oz. denim twill with a probable Italian origin.
B) Slate Grey twill: New Old Stock, 60% cotton – 40% linen, 8 Oz. denim twill, also with a probable Italian origin.

Lining: New Old Stock, 100% cotton, natural white with woven blue stripe.

DETAILS:
* Unstructured silhouette.
* Lightweight and soft.
* High button front.
* Corrozo wood butons.
* Half shoulder floating lining.
* Side hip pockets with flaps.
* Pocket openings reinforced on the inside.
* 100% cotton stitching, clean caballo flat-felled seam construction, green color “Sportsman” signature chainstitch on the inside. No open edges or overlock.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
This explains how we size our garments.
The Continental Sportcoat comes raw/unwashed.
We recommend the usual initial 30mn cold soak/occasional hand agitation/spin dry/hang dry process. For both fabric options, the tagged size reflects the size of the garment after going through this process. Both fabric options shrink to about the same measurements.
Please note that it is the nature of cotton-Linen blend textiles to wrinkle and stretch back and forth with each laundry/wear cycle. For example, freshly laundered linen garments fit tighter in the morning than at the end of the day. If you prefer a clean, pressed look following the initial soaking process, the jacket can be steamed or professionally pressed.

The Continental Sportcoat is quite broad-shouldered and is not designed to fit like a bespoke Savile Row coat, but rather like a casual ‘unstructured blazer’. I am wearing a Size 38 in both charcoal and slate grey Continental Sportcoat. This is my usual size in mfsc jackets, although I have done a full rinse cycle with the Sportcoat, and used a heat dryer for about five minutes.

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry. Further shrinkage and creasing will be achieved with full wash cycle (on delicate) and a heat dryer cycle.

CARE:
Hand wash or machine wash unbuttoned on delicate, cold water with minimal environmentally friendly detergent. Line dry.
NOTE: Full washing cycle and machine dry will result in maximum shrinkage, to be experimented with care and at owner’s risk.

Available RAW/unwashed
SIZES:

Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)

Retail $ 329.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.comfine retailers around the World, and our Los Angeles ol’ pile o’ rags.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2016

Mister Freedom mfsc SPORSTMAN Spring 2016 made in USA preview

Sportsman-SS2016-Lookbook1

Sportsman-SS2016-Lookbook2

Mister Freedom® “The Sportsman”
mfsc Spring 2016
Made in USA

Available sometime in 2016, from www.misterfreedom.comfine retailers around the World, and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Thank you for your support.
MF®